EAT 
WHITE  NORTH 

iHELEN  .S.^WRIGHT 


-  -  ^   --*. — ■  "= 

— il 

i 

Ui 

!  li  V  ;!.."'.  .J  ii  t    a        '^^' S      ^^A-__„  r 'v^'^M 

'  "  A 

1       ; 

'i  : 

1_ 



_.^      _ —^^-TZ- — ^-^— :,^z-  -_ -z=^^: 



_J^. 

«=^^^r  'L     -i  -1  II       1 


/J"/.^     ! 


THE  GIFT  OF 

MAY  TREAT  MORRISON 

IX  MEMORY  OF 

ALEXA.NDER   F  MORRISON 


THE    (IRE AT    AVIIITE    NORTH 


THE   MACMILLAX  COMPAXV 

M-;\"'.'  YORK    •     Bf7STf)N    •     CHIC.M.O 
ATLANTA    •    SAN    FK-ANCISC' 

AiACMILLAX    &    CO  ,  Limited 

LONDON    ■     r;OMr.AV    •     CAI.f.T'-'A 
JIELliOlKNt 

IIIE   MACMILLAX  CO.   OF  CAXADA.   Lti 

T(7!!ONTl' 


(■',l>f/ri;/l,l  /.//  CL'nxlin.^f,    Wash  in, /I, 
( 'i  iM\i  \  ,\  i)i:i{    Hcini:i;i     linwix     I'i:ah\'.    l.S.X. 
\Vl!.,  rca<-hr,l  Ih..   l',,l(.  Aiwil  (i,    I'.KC.) 


D.C. 


THE  GREAT  WHITE  NORTH 

THE   STORY   OF 

POLAR  EXPLORATIOT^ 

FRO:\I    THE    EARLIEST   TIMES    TO   THE 
DLSCOA^ERY    OF    THE    ROLE 


BY 
HELEN   S.  WRIGHT 


THE   MAC^IILLAX   CO:\rPAXY 
1010 

AH  riyhtti  renerved 


COPYKIGIIT,    1910, 

By   the   MACMILLAX   COMPANY. 


Set  up  and  electrotyped.      Published  October,  igio. 


Cusliini.'  Cm.  —  i'„-i-\\ick  >^  Smith  Cn 
.\(,r«n,,.l.  Mh>s..   f.S.A. 


PREFACE 

The  material  for  this  book  has  been  gathered  from  the 
rich  storehouse  of  Arctic  Literature.  Tlie  chief  labour 
of  its  composition  lay  in  elimination  rather  than  construc- 
tion. The  great  field  I  have  endeavoured  to  present  can 
hardly  be  brought  Avith  justice  to  the  narrow  bounds  of 
a  single  cover,  but  I  have  conscientiously  endeavoured 
to  bring  to  the  reader's  mind  an  accurate  record  of  bril- 
liant deeds  that  go  to  make  the  history  of  the  far  Xorth. 
and  have  let  the  explorers  themselves  tell  the  story  of  Jtow 
these  deeds  have  been  accomplished. 

Between  the  lines  of  their  simple  language  describing 
stern  facts  or  desperate  realities,  one  reads  the  character 
and  temperament  of  the  adventurer  ;  one  gathers  lessojis 
of  patience,  self-sacrifice,  and  endurance  unsurpassed  in 
the  history  of  mankind,  and  perhaps  appreciates,  for  the 
first  time,  the  splendid  fibre  of  which  he  is  made.  Stripped 
of  the  conventions  and  luxuries  of  civilized  life,  he  plunges 
into  the  great  unknown  to  fight  a  relentless  war  against 
the  greatest  foes  to  his  existence,  —  Cold.  Starvation,  and 
Death.  Though  he  may  fall  by  the  wayside  a  victim  to 
the  Cause,  or  crawl  home  on  liands  and  knees  over  the 
rough  fastnesses  of  the  fro/.en  wilderness,  famishing, —  ])er- 
ha|)S  dying.  —  the  record  of  his  work  lives  on:  the  fun- 
damental princi])les  of  gi'eat  character  do  not  jierish.  but 
stand  through  tlie  centuries,  a   star  of  hope  to  the  \\'eary 


VI  PREFACE 

traveller  on  liis  pilpfrimacre  alr^icr  tlie  Avell-trodden  patli- 
wdv  of  e\"eryday  life,  and  stirs  the  layman  to  a  better 
enditrance  of  the  Ijtirdens  and  jiin'plexities  of  the  common 
lot. 

Jt  is  with  })leastire  J  inake  grateful  acknoAvledgment 
to  the  gentlemen  who  have  aeeordt-d  me  their  gracious 
permission  to  <juote  from  their  A\-(jrks.  to  Commander 
Rohert  E.  I'eai'v,  t<j  Ahijor-(  irneral  .V.  W.  (ireely.  and 
Sir  .\llen  Young,  and  tr>  the  following  publishers  and 
(jthe-rs  wlio.  l)y  fiii'in.--hing  material  or  gi\'ing  consent  to 
use  selceted  mattei'.  or  Ijy  l;ind  assistance  in  other  ways, 
liave  made  my  Avork  possilde:  The  .Vmerican  Publishing 
Company,  Hartford,  ('onn..  for  selectifMis  from  '-Our 
Lost  l-lxplorer>  "' :  I).  Ajiph.'tfm  i,V  Company  for  selections 
from  Charles  Lannuin"s  ••  l-'artliest  ^'ortli"  and  Payei'"s 
■•  Xi'W  Lands  wdthin  tlie  Arctie  Circle "":  The  Ccnttiry 
Contp'au}'  for  seleetions  from  (ifiieral  Ci'lh-1v"s  article 
o]i  •• 'l"h(^  Norlliwest  Passage":  to  (dint-dinst.  ^^'as]ling- 
ton.  ]).('..  for  pt'i'iidssion  to  rcju'oduce  tlie  copvriglit 
poi'traits  of  Adnnrals  Scddcy  and  .Mfl\"!ili,'.  (icuoral  Crcidy. 
aici  Commander  Peary  ;  ('onstable  vt  Compaiiv.  arid  1-1.  I'. 
J)u1ton  &  Company,  Ltd..  London,  fur  permission  to 
I'eproduce  ilie  poi'ti^ait  oi  Amundsen  in  the  lattei'"s  wfji'k, 
"Tlie  Xorllj\\'e>t  Passage'"":  I)ouble<lay.  Page  \  Company 
ior  seleetions  from  ('oinmander  l'ear\'"s  •■  Nearest  tlie 
Pole,"  and  for  the  [loHrait  of  Anthony  bdala  and  rithei' 
illustration>  from  tlie  !atiei-"s  \\-orl<.  ••bduLiing  the  Polar 
Icc"  ;  The  l-hic\'ch)])a'dia  Ib'itanidea  Company  for  a  selec- 
tion   from   an   ai'tiele   1)\'   Markliam   on  "Polar   Tu"_;'ion> ""  : 

to     J.    Si.-olt     J\'eilie.     L.^ij..    edili,]'    of     tlie     n  rniiril  jiJii'-ill    Jnil  r- 

iKil.  for  selfeti'ins  fi-oni  thai  joiiiaial  :  lIoULi'liton :  .Miftlin 
('onipau\'   feir  .-^rleel  !on.->   tVom  ••Tlie    \'o\-a'i-e  of  thi'   Jean- 


PREFACE  Vll 

nette  "  and  Melville's  "In  tlu^  Lena  Delta";  Dodd,  Mead 
cV'  C'onipany  for  selectioiis  from  the  Duke  of  Abruzzi's 
"On  the  Pohir  Star"';  Benjamin  ]>.  Hampton,  Esq.,  for 
permission  to  reproduce  photographs  of  the  Peary  ex])e- 
dition  of  19U8  and  Commander  Peary's  map,  and  iMr. 
Hampton  and  the  Hew  York  Times  for  permission  to  quote 
Commander  Peary's  telegram  announcing  his  discovery 
of  the  Pole;  the  editor  of  tlie  JUustrated  London  News 
for  permission  to  reproduce  the  portraits  of  Sir  Edward 
l^elcher-.  Captain  Xares,  and  Commander  Mai'khara ; 
Jjittle,  Prown  &  Com[)any  for  selections  from  (Tcneral 
Circely's  '•  nand])ook  of  l*olar  Discoveries";  The  London 
Agency  for  ()rdnance  Maps  for  selections  from  Sir  Allen 
Young's  "  I'andora  Voyages '' ;  Longmans,  Creen  &  Com- 
})any  for  seh'ctions  from  Nansen's  "  First  Crcjssing  of 
(ireenland"  and  Sverdru})'s  "New  Land";  the  editor  of 
MaClure's  3I((;/azine  foi'  a  selection  from  Mr.  Baldwin's 
ai'ticle  on  "The  Paldwin-Ziegler  .\rctic  Expedition," 
^\•hich  a])])eai'c;d  in  that  magazine  in  P,H)P-dl)U2;  Albert 
Op(n'ti.  Es(p.  fc)r  permission  to  reproduce  the  portraits 
of  W.  II.  (iihler,  Lieutcmant  Schwatka,  Colonel  lirainard, 
Captain  I)c  Long,  and  Lieutenant  Lockwood  ;  C.  Kegan 
Paul  &  Company  for  a  selection  from  Markham's  "(ireat 
l-'rozen  Sea";  (i.  P.  I'utnam's  Sons  for  a  selection  from 
?tli-.  Alger's  articles  on  "  lioald  Amundsen,"'  which  ap- 
})eared  in  l^iifnuin's  'Montlilu ;  tht;  editor  of  the  Anierh'ati 
llci'U-ir  of  lii'rifirs  for  a  selection  from  ]\Ir.  McCiratli's 
ai'licle  on  •■  Polar  Ivxploration/'  an'IucIl  a[)peared  in  that 
niagazine  :  Sampson.  Low.  Marston  c\:  Company.  London, 
for  a  selection  from  '•(ierman  Arctic  Exjjcditions " ; 
Charles  Seribner's  Sons  for  a  selection  from  St'lnvatka's 
"Search."   Greel\"'s  "'.Fhree   Years'   Arctic   Ser\ice."  and 


PREFACE 


Scliley's  "  Ivcscuo  of  CTrcely";  V.  A.  Stokes  Company  for 
])ermis«io]i  to  reproduce  illustratioiis  from  Cominuuder 
Peary's  work,  " 'J'he  iS'orth  Pole,"  and  for  tlie  loan  of 
photographs ;  and  to  tlie  same  com})any  for  selections 
froin  Andree's  "  I^alloon  Expedition  "  and  Peary"s  "North- 
ward ovei'  the  Great  Ice." 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER   I 

PAGE 

Early  adventurers.  Py theas.  —  Dicuil.  —  Other.  — Wulfstan.  —  The 
Norsemen.  —  Iva  Bardsen.  —  The  Cabots.  —  The  Cortereals.  — 
"Willoughby  and  Chancellor.  —  Stephen  Burrough.  —  Xiccolo 
Zeno.  —  Frohisher.  —  Pet  and  Jacknian.  —  Sir  Humphrey  Gil- 
bert.—  Davis. — Bareutz     ........         1 

CHAPTER   II 

Seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries.  Hudson.  —  BatTm.  —  Desh- 
neff. —  Behring.  —  Schalaroff.  — Tcliitschagof.  —  Anjou  and  \'on 
Wrangell.  —  Phipps 18 

CHAPTER   III 

Early  nineteenth  century.  Ross  and  Parry.  May  .'].  1818.  Object 
of  voyage,  search  for  Northwest  Passage  through  Davis  Strait 
and  explore  bays  and  channels  described  by  Baffin.  — Met  natives 
near  Melville  Hay.  — 'The  discovery  by  Ross  of  the  famous  Crim- 
son Cliffs.  — Enters  Lancaster  Sounil.  — Advance  barred  by  im- 
aginary Crocker  M(iumains.  ■ —  Rerurn  of  expeditioTi  to  Enirland. 
—  Buchan  and  Franklin  N(~irtli  Polar  expedition  via  Greenland 
and  Sjiitzbergen.  —  Barnthca  and  'I'rpiit  in  Magdalena  Bay.  June 
3,  I.^IH.  —  Reacheil  hiuh  latitude  of  Sii  ;i7' N. —Course  directed 
to  east  coast  of  Greenland.  —  Disastrous  battle  with  the  ice. — 
Z>o?'();/(^a  disabled.  —  Hasty  return  to  England  .         ...       29 

ClIAPTEB    IV 

1810-1827.  Parry's  first  voyage. — Object,  to  survey  Lancaster 
Sound  and  prove  the  uon  existence  of  Crocker  Mountains.— 
Discovery  of  ucw  lands  — Parry  Islnnds. — Attains  lonuiiude 
110    W..  thereby  winning  the  bounty  of  live  thousand  ]>ounils 


cox  TEXTS 


offered  1 IV  Parliaraont. —  Winters  near  .Melville  Island.  Second 
voyaue.  — Sliiii>  Jf"'f'>  and  /•''//•_'/.  —  Kxainints  Dukr  of  York  i5ay 
and  Frozi-n  Strait  of  Middlctim.  —  Winters  off  Lyon  Inlet. — 
Sled-e  j(iui'ne\s. — Ohjeet.to  make  Nurthwe.-t  I'assaux-  ri'i  I'rinee 
liegent  Inlet. — ]i(-aehed  I'ort  Bowen. — Ten  nmnths"  inipris- 
onruent.  —  DestriK'tion  of  the  Fur[/.  —  Hasty  return  to  Kn-land. 
l-'iiurth  vi.yaiie.  —  Pui'pose  h>  reaeh  the  i'l.le  ci'/  Siiitzberucn 
with  sledge  Ijoats  over  ice. — JTr/a  as  transport. — J-'arry's 
farthest  S2    4-V  X.  reached.  June  2'-],  1^-21  ..... 


41 


fJIAl'TEli    V 

Nineteenth  century  cnydiiiinil,  Scoreshy  and  C'lavering, — Former 
visiti'd  Jan  Mayens  I>land  in  1>17.  —  Later  he  visited  east  coast 
of  Ci'cenland.  —  I)iscii\ere-d  Score-by  Sound.  In  1824.  Ca])- 
tain  Lyon  surveyc-il  .Melville  Peninsula.- — Adjnining  straits 
and  shnres  of  Areiic  America.  —  In  Is:.'-').  Caj'tain  Ik-echey  in 
the  Bl'issoiii  sailed  through  Hehring  Strait  and  passed  beyond 
ley  Cape.  —  Survi-yed  the  coast  as  far  ;is  Point  Earrnw.  addiiig 
I2d  miles  I  if  ni-Vv'  sIimi-c.  —  S(-<;iind  voyage  of  ('ujjtain  Jnhu  Puss. 

—  I'ndertaken  in  ls:.",i.  —  Diseuvers  iionthia. —  Wiiitered  in 
Felix  II arlmr.  —  Disenvi.-ry  uf  Nortli  Ma::iietic  Pole  by  iiejihew 
I'f  Cajitain  .Jnhn  lvi>s. — ('Mniniaiider  .Jan;'-s  Clark  lin^s. — 
\'ali;able  o])scrvations.  — Sledire  journeys  to  mainland.  — Four 
>'ears  s])ent  in  the  Aretic.  ■ — I'erilcjus  rf'ireai.  —  Saf(.-  return. 
Land  journey  liy  Captain  liack.  — The  Great  Fish-P>ack  liiver.— 

—  Point  ()i;le. —Point  liichardson.  • — Pack's  farthest  jmini  was 
'iS'  \-]'  ."iT"  north  latitude.  '.»)  5^'  1"  west  longitude.  Land  jour- 
neys of  Simiison  and  Dease.  ]S;;i;.  —  Descend  the  Maekt-nzie 
i;iverto  the  sea.- — Surveyed  wf-si  shore  between  lieturn  ]\eef 
and  Cape  Parrow. — In  Ibo'.',  they  explored  shores  of  \'ictoria 
Land  as  far  a<  Caj.e  Parry. — Cm.-si-d  Coronation  Gulf.  —  I)e- 
,-cended  the  Cd])], ermine.  —  l-;e:ii-hed  the  j'l.lar  Sea.  0\-erland 
y  iurney  in  F^"4''>  by  Dr.  .bilm  Pac  confirmed  Captain  John  lioss's 
siaieiiient  t  liat   Pooihia  wa-^  a  peiiiu.-ula       ..... 

cH. \PTi:i;  vr 


bihii  Fi-ai!l<lin.  —  I-iarly  life.  —  Fir-i  land  expedition  of  i>l'.'-l--L'l. 

biUrni-y  fi-om  Vurk    ba-'Oa''.   to  Cumb'-riaiid    ihiiH.-.  —  lo-.ach 

lojr;  I'ri 'Vidrnce.  —  Winter  at   Fort  Fnierp!'ise. — Fxploj-alions. 


CONTENTS  XI 

PAOE 

—  5550  miles.  —  Hardship.  —  Starvation.  —  Return.  Second 
land  journey. — 18"i5. — Winter  quarters  at  Great  Bear  Lake. 

—  Descent  of  tlie  Mackenzie  Kiver  to  tlie  Polar  Sea.  —  1200 
miles  of  coast  added  to  map.  The  last  journey  of  Sir  John 
Franklin,  1845. — -The  Erebus  and  Terror. — Last  seen  in  Mel- 
ville Bay 79 

CHAPTER  VII 

Search  for  Sir  John  Franklin.     Captain  Kellett.  —  Captain  Moore. 

—  Dr.  Richardson.  —  Dr.  Rae.  —  Sir  J.  C.  Ross.  —  Mr.  Parker. 

—  Dr.  Goodsir.  —  Collinson,  M'Clure.  — The  Felix.  —■  Prince 
Albert.  —  Commanded  by  Charles  C.  Forsyth.  —  Captain  Aus- 
tin's s(iuadron.  —  Captain  Ommaney.  —  Lieutenant  Sherard 
Osborn.  — Commander  Cator.  — Grinnell  expedition  under  De 
Haven 95 

CHAPTER   VIII 

Search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  continued.  Sledge  journey  of  Captain 
Austin's  squadron.  — -Return  of  Frince  Albert  under  command 
of  Captain  Kennedy. — Bellot.    .......     120 

CHAPTER   IX 

Search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  continued.  Sir  Edward  Belcher's 
S'quadron.  —  Inijlofield.  —  Rae"s  journey.  —  Discovery  of  North- 
west Passage  by  Captaui  IM'Clure.  —  Death  of  Bellot.         .         .     141 

CHAPTER    X 

Sledging  parties  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher's  squadron. — -Desertion 
of  the  ships.  —  Return  to  England.  Story  of  the  Resolute. — 
Traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin  discovered  by  Dr.  Pae. — Ander- 
son's journey.  —  The  voyage  of  the  Fox.  under  Connnander 
^Nl'CliiUock. — •  Sledge  journeys. — Record  and  n^lics  of  Frank- 
lin's expedition.  —  Fox  returns  to  England         ....     17-4 

CH.VPTER    XI 

The  second  Grinnell  expedition.  Connnanded  by  Dr.  Elislia  K. 
Kane.  — Winter   quarters    in    Rensselaer   Harbor.  —  Sledging 


xii  coyTEyrs 


I'AfJE 


trips.  —  To  the  rescue, —  Effects  of  exhaustion  and  cold.  —  Dr. 
Kane's  journey.  —  (jreat  Glacier  of  Iluiuboldt. — lieiurn  and 
illness  of  Dr.  Kane.  Second  winter  in  tlie  ice. — Privations 
and  suffering;. — Abandonment  f)f  ilie  Ailranrp. — lietreat  and 
rescue  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .109 

CHAPTER    XII 

Dr.  Hayes's  expedition.  Winter  (quarters  at  Port  Eoulke,  Greenland 
coar^t.  —  Death  of  Soinita^. — Dr.  Hayes's  journey.  —  Attempt 
to  cross  -Smith  Souiul.  —  Hayes's  fartliest.  —  ••  Open  ]V)]ar  Sea.'' 

—  Homeward  bound 2:)5 

CHAPTER    XIII 

Charles  Francis  Hall.  —  Early  life.  —  Interest  in  fate  of  Sir  John 
Franklin. — First  journey  to  Greenland.  —  Discovery  of  Fro- 
bislier  relics.  —  Experiences  and  study  of  the  Eskimos.  Sec- 
ond journey.  —  Delays  and  disappointments.  —  Sleddn,'  trips. 

—  Kinii  William  Eand  at  lust.  — Franklin  relics. — Bcturn  ul 
Hall  to  United  States.  Polfiris  exj)edition.  —  Readies  hiLdi 
Jll)rthin.l,^  —  Hall's  sledge  journey.  —  Jfeturn  and  deatli. — l'i>- 
hrris  winters.  —  X(j  escape.  —  Polaris  is  wrecked.  —  Part  of 
crew  adrift  on  tlie  ice-lloe. — -Remainder  build  wintei'  hut. — 
i'inal  rescue  and  return  to  United  States     .....     243 

CHAPTER    XIV 

Captain  Tliomas  Loner.  —  Discovery  of  Wranirell  Land.  —  Captain 
' 'arisen  and  Cajitain  Palliser  sail  aci-oss  tiic  Sra.  of  Fara. — ( 'ap- 
tain  .fdhaniU'sr'n  circumnaviii-ates  X()\-a  Zeinl'la.  I'ii'sf  German 
I'xpcditinn,  —  Second  (ierman  exj^fditinn.  —  (rprni'i inn.  ( 'a]itain 
K'.lipwey  cnnHnandincr.  — Iliius'i.  Captain  He^-emann.  — Drjiai- 
turi-  from  P)i-f-men.  —  Crossini:  tlie  .\r."tic  Circle.  —  Island  nf  .Ian 
Maycn.  —  Tlie  ice  line. —  Separatinn  from  the  Jl'insu. —  .\drift 
on    the   ire-floe.  —  \\'inter.  — Final    reseue.  — ■  (lir'nuriiin   beset. 

—  ^\'inter. —  Sle<p_nii2;  ]-iarfies.  —  LieiUenant  I'ayer's  remark- 
able journey — 77    1'  north  latitude.  — IJeturn  of  the  (ii-rmirn'i"     208 

CH.M'TEH    XV 

Xorwf>frlan  '''Xjiedition.  1^71,  I'ayei- and  Weyjireflit. — The  Tp'i'it- 
Afi.rr  ad  rift  in  tlie  I'olar  ]iaek.  —  Dise^very  of  Fi'anz  .Jos(-f  Land.  — 


CONTENTS  xiii 


pa(;e 


i'ayer's  sledge  journeys.  —  Payer's  farthest  82  '  5'  north  latitude. 

—  Cajie  Fligely.  —  Abauilonmeut  of  the  "Tcijetthoff.  —  Ketreat  of 
ollicers  and  crew.  —  I'icked  up  by  Russian  lishernien.  —  Home     280 

niArTER    XVI 

Baron  A.  E.  von  Nordeuskjold.  —  First  voyage,  1858. — ■  Aceoni- 
pauies  suceeeding  Swedish  expeditions.  —  Spitzbergen. —  Voy- 
age of  Sojia.  —  18(;8. — -Nordenskj old's  journey  to  Greenland.  — 
Voyage  of  tin'  Pdlhcin.  —  Attempt  to  reach  the  Pole  by  reindeer 
sledge.  —  Unexpectetl  discouragements  and  disasters.  —  Voyage 
of  the  Proven. —  liSTo. — The  Kara  Sea. — Journey  repeated 
the  following  year.  —  In  the  Ymcr.  —  Voyage  of  the  I  >[/(« .  .     298 

CHAPTER    XVII 

British  expedition  of  1875.  The  Alert  and  Discovery.  — Captain 
George  S.  Xares,  V.  M.  S.,  Albert  H.  Markham.  F.  R.  G.  S.  — 
Two  voyages  of  the  Pditdura,  1875-187(5.  Schwatka's  searcli 
for  the  Franklin  records.  1878-1879 810 

CHAPTEli    XVIII 

The  Jeannette  expedition, 1879-1881.  In  coniiuand  of  Captain  Geiu-ge 
\V.  DeLong.  —  Leaves  San  Francisco. — Touches  at  Ounalaska, 
August  2.  — Reaches  Eawrence  I'ay.  East  Siberia.  August  15.  — 
Last  s.'fu  by  whale  bark  .'<en  Breer^e  ne;!r  Herald  Island,  Septem- 
ber 2.  — '1  lie  .refiriiu'ttr  beset  in  ice-pack  September  5,  never 
auain  released.  —  Daily  nnuine  of  officers  and  crew. — Shi}) 
springs  a  leak.  —  .\  frozen  suinnu'r.  —  Sight  of  new  land.  —  A 
second  wintei-  in  the  ])ack.  —  The  .Teannvtte  crushed. — Aban- 
donment. —  The  retr(>at.  — The  fate  of  the  three  boats.- —  Death 
of  De  Long's  ])arty.  —  :\Ielville's  search olo 

CHAPTEli    XIX 

International  circunipolar  .stations.  —  Failure  of  Dutch  expedition. 

—  Greely  expedition  reaches  Lady  Franklin  P.ay. — Life  at  Fort 
(\iim-er.  —Sledge  journey  of  Brainard  and  I.oekwood. — Farthest 
north.  — Greely's  journey  to  interior  of  (Jrinnell  Land.  —  Lake 
Hazen.  — Failure  of  relief  ship  Xeptunv  to  reach  Conger  in  1S82. 


xiv  CONTENTS 


PAGE 


—  Official  plans  for  Greely's  relief  in  1883.  —  Proteus  crushed 
iu  ice.  - — Garliugtoirs  retreat.  —  Greely's  abandounient  of  Fort 
("oiiirer. — Greely  readies  Gape,  Sabine. — Tiie  beuinninij  of  a 
hard  winter.  — Deatli  of  members  of  tlie  party  from  starvation 
and  cold.  —  Scldey's  brilliant  rescue  of  the  remnant  of  the  Lady 
franklin  Hay  (ixpedition  in  1884         ......     809 

C II AFTER   XX 

Xansen.  — 'I'lie  man.  —  First  Arctic  experience.  — Plans  the  crossing 
of  Greenland.  —  Carries  out  his  ,<ireat  undertaking.  —  Voyage  on 
the  Frdiii.  — Drifting  with  the  current.  —  Life  aboard.  —  Nan- 
sen  and  Johannesen  start  for  the  Pole.  —  Difficulties  of  travel. 
— -'riie  "  Farthest  Xnrtli  !"  —  'Plie  retreat.  —  A  winter  on  the 
Fi'anz  Josef  Land.  —  Attempt  to  reach  Spitzbergen  by  kayak. 

—  The  meeting  at  (^ape  Fl(jra  with  Frederick  Jackson.  —  Home 

in  tiie  Windward         .........     401 

ClIAFTKR    XXI 

Journeys  of  Dr.  A.  P>unge  and  Baron  E.  von  Toll.  Exploration  iu 
Siiitzberuvn.  —  Sir  Martin  Conway.  —  Dr.  .\.  (i.  N'athorst.— 
I'i'ofe>soi' J.  U.Cjore.  — Andree's  balloon  t;xpeditiun  tothe  North 
Pole. — St-areli  for  Andree  by  The(j<lor  Lei'uer. — J.  Stadling. 

—  Dr.  A.  (i.  Xatliorst.  —  Captain  Bade.  —  Walte'r  Wellman's 
])lan  to  rea(;h  the  Pole  from  Spitzbergen. —  Italian  ex]jfditiou 
under  Duke  of  Abi'uzzi.  —  l>oss  of  the  Stidla  I'nlorf.  —  ( 'aptain 
I'mberto  Cagni's  journey.  —  ISreaks  the;  I'eeord.  —  lietreat. — 
Home.  —  lialdwin-Zieglcr  exijedition  of  ll)()().  —  ( 'omplete  equip- 
meiil .  —  Return  of  expedition  in  autumn.  —  Zieghu'  exjxHlition 
under  Anthony  l'"iala.  —  'i'he  Anifricn  readies  high  nortliing.  — 
^Vinl(■rs  in  'iriplilz  l>ay.  —  Is  <h'stroyed.  — ■  Failure;  of  sledgt; 
jiiuriii  vs.  —  lu'licf  sliip  doe.s  not  eniiie.  ■ — Second  winter.  —  Be- 
tiu'ii  of  pai1y  liy  T<rrn  Xnvi  in  I'.Mi:;  ......     417 

cii.M'TFi;  x.xir 

Otti)  Svei'dcu]).  —  I'.air  years"  \nyage  of  the  Fram. — J(jurneys  in 
L I lesm; •!■(■.  Land.  —  Important  e.Nploi'atinn  ol'.Iones  Sound.  — -l)is- 
eiivri-\  of  new  lands. -- 1 1'eleM.se  of  tlie  Fntiii.  Captain  itoald 
.Vmundseii.  — 4'lie  voyage  of  the  (,'jnii.  —  Beaches  liead  of  I'eter- 


CONTENTS  XV 


PAGJ5 


sen  Bay  (King  William  Land). — Two  years'  stay  —  Valuable 
scientilic  observations.  —  Visits  from  Eskimos.  —  Sledge  jour- 
neys.—  Release  from  the  ice.  —  August  14,  lOOO.  —  Completion 
of  the  Northwest  Passage.  —  Another  Arctic  winter.' — Sledge 
journey  of  Anumdsen  to  Kagle  City.  —  Release  of  Wui  Gjoa. — 
Reaches  San  Francisco,  1907       .......     4.35 

CHARTER    XXIII 

Robert  E.  Peary. — The  man.  —  First  visit  to  the  Arctic,  188(5. — 
Other  journeys,  1891.  —  Independence  Bay,  Gi'eenlar.d.  —  Dis- 
covers Melville  Land  and  Ileilprin  Land.  ■ —  Subsequent  jour- 
neys, 1893-1895. — Discovery  of  famous  "  Iron  Mountain.'' — ■ 
Summer  voyages,  1896-1897.  — North  Pole  journey  of  1898. — 
Peary  seriously  disabled  by  frost-bites.  — •  Polar  expedition  in 
S.S.  Boosevelt,  190.')-1900.  —  Final  dash  for  the  Pole,   1908       .     455 

CHAPTER    XXIV 

Dr.  Frederick  A.  Cook.  —  Claims  discovery  of  the  Polo.  —  His  return 
from  the  Arctic. — Recei)tion  by  tin!  Danes. —Announcement 
of  conquest  of  tlie  Pole  by  Peary.  —  Denounces  Dr.  Cook. — 
Acceptance  of  Peary's  claims  by  the  .\merican  Geographical 
Society.- — Dr.  Cook  sends  manuscript  to  Copenhagen.  —  Ver- 
dict.—  Prior  claim  to  the  discovery  of  the  North  Pole. — Not 
proven  ...........     470 

I>Xl>LA.VAT!ON'    OF    TkRMS      .........       477 

Index  ............     481 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Commander  Hobert  Edwin  Peary       ..... 
lloiulius  his  ^lap  of  the  Arctike  Pole,  or  ^'ortherne  World 


Fronti 


spiece 


Sebastian  Cabot  .... 

Sir  nu,i;li  Willoughby 

Martin  I'rubi.slier         .... 

Sir  Humphrey  (Jilbert 

Uavis's  Ships  Srtntihine  and  Muom^hine 

The  Death  of  Henry  Hudson 

Peter  Feodorovitsch  Anjou 

Ferdinand  von  Wrangell     . 

Captain  John  Ro.ss,  H.N.    . 

Entering  Lancaster  Sound 

Jolni  Franklin     . 

Upernavik  .... 

Henry  (irinnell  . 

The  (iraves  on  15eechiey  Island 

E.  K.  ]\ane 

The  Kescue  in  .Melville  Bay 

Lauding  near  (iriuuell  Cape 

Nipped  ill  the  Ice 

A  dale  in  the  .\retic  Sea    . 

Tlie  Outlook  from  Cape  (Jeorge  Kussell 

IIuml)oldt  (dacier        .... 

L  I.  Hayes 

Five  Members  of  the  Grinuell  Expedition 

TennysoiTs  ^louunuMit 

Frobisher's  Map  nf  >b.'ta  Incognita    . 

Funeral  oi  Caiitain  Hall 

Jan  Mayeii  Island        .... 

A.  E.  Nordenskjr.ld    .... 

Foul  l!ay     ...... 

The  Vrijd  in  Konyam  Bay 

xvii 


7 

10 

U 

17 

21 

L'8 

28 

82 

52 

80 

99 

110 

lb! 

120 

128 

170 

ISO 

209 

215 

218 

224 

2:il 

2:]1 

2  \:', 

254 

2S8 

;)05 
;;o9 


XVIU 


LIST   OF  ILU'STRATIOXH 


FACING    P.. 


The  Crew  of  the  Y<'ga 

Disco  Islainl        ..... 

J.icuteiuuit  Frederick  Schwatka,  L'.S.A. 

AV.  H.  (iilder 

Caiitaiii  G.  W.  De  Lnnir.  U.S.X. 

Kear  Admiral  ( ieorge  W.  Melville,  U.S.N 

Ciijoiicl  David  Lcuue  Braiiiard,  U.S.A. 

LieuttnanL  James  H.  Lockwood,  U.S.A. 

C;eiieral  A.  W.  Greely,  U.S.A.   . 

Rear  Adiidral  Schley,  U.S.X.      . 

The  Retreat  of  1004  —  Sledge  Column  leav 

J5reakiim  Camp  at  Cape  Richtliope 

Anthony  l^'iala    .... 

]i(jald  Amundsen 

Cape  Flora  in  Early  July.  11)04  . 

The  Ciial  .Mine  at  Cape  Flora 

The  ll<,(iK(-roU  dryiuLT  her  Sails  . 

Cairn  f-rected  over  the  Body  of  Marv 

Camio  Mf.irris  Jesnp     . 

The  I'eary  Sledge 

Christmas  Dinner  on  the  Unofi'-iult 

Tlie  Flag  that  Peary  carried  to  the  Pole 

:\Iap  of  Arctic  Explorations,  18uO-lU09 


ing  C 


iipe 


Mull  in 


bock 


;ll(j 
320 
337 
344 

3.32 
309 

o-o 

380 
384 
400 
433 
433 
437 
444 
448 
448 
450 
400 
402 
404 
404 
408 
474 


TILE   GREAT   WTTTTE   ^"ORTII 

CPIAPTEK    7 

]']arly  adventurers:  Pytheas.  —  Dicuil.  —  Other.  —  Wulfstan.  — 
The  Xors(Mneii.  —  Tva  Bardrfen.  —  The  Cabots.  — The  C'ort(Mvals. 
—  Willoughby  ami  Clumeellor.  — Stephen  Iku'rough.  —  Xiccolo 
Zeno.  —  Frobisher.  —  P(>t  and  Jackman.  —  Su-  Humphrey  Gil- 
bert. —  Davis.  —  Barentz. 

A  ({RAVE  old  Avorld,  majestically  swinging  upon  its  axis, 
the  mystery  of  its  northern  extremity  locked  closely  within 
its  breast,  is  suddenly  electrified  hy  the  news  that  at  last 
man,  for  cc^nturies  l)afll(Hl  in  his  lun'oic  efforts,  has  rcn-ealtnl 
its  hidden  s(H'ret,  and  that  Old  Glory,  symbol  of  the  daring 
of  the  moderns,   floats  from  the  Pole  itscdf. 

AMiat  a  thrill  of  inten^st  ])asses  over  the  nations  of  the 
eartli  ;  universal  excitement;  universal  rejoicings.  Cable- 
gram, Marconigram,  carry  th(>  wonderful  tidings  vmder  ihe 
seas  or  around  tlu^  A\'orld  in  s]')ac(\ 

Tlw  Pole  at  hist!  For  ag(>s  tlu^  northern  lights  hav(> 
b(>cko!u>d  the  adventurous  s])irits  to  fathom  the  plKMiomeua 
of  the  gi'(^a1  unknown.  ha\'e  lured  num  into  harbours  fanlaslic 
AN'ith  1h(^  fi'ozen  ice  of  c(Mituries,  have  insijired  him  to  cross 
the  (Ireenland  ice  ca])  —or  maki^  his  lonel\'  trail  through  the 
"bari'ens"  of  Xorth  Amei-ica  or  the  desolate  "tundi'a"  of 
Siberia,  his  dauntless  courage  un(]U(Miched  by  ])revious  I'ccords 
of  i)rl\'alion,  star\'ati()n.  and  death  its(>lf.  One  aft(>r  anoiher 
of  intre])i(l  (>xpl()]'(M's  ha\-e  left  their  stories  of  thrilling  ad- 
\'(Mitui'e.  and  I'ecoi'd  of  their  nann^s  or  those  of  their  benx'- 
factors  to  mai'k  their  ])ersonal  discoveries. 

H  1 


Tin:    CUE  AT    Win  IE   y  OUT  1 1 


A\'h;it  ;i  hi-tory,  what  suffering',  wliat  sacrifice,  comix'nsatcd 
!)>■  ,iir<-:>.i  aclii('\"cniciiT,  by  heroism,  hy  <ilury  —  by  tlic  aihU- 
linii-  io  llic  woi'iil's  ri'conl  of  scicntihc  kno\\ic-lii,c! 

W'Ihj  were  the  cjtrly  mariiicrs  that  aspired  to  peueti'ate  tlie 
U!i]viio\v!!  seas  of  ive  ?  .  |'a;r  back  in  the  centuries.  Pytheas, 
bold  ad',-i']fnire,r.vbr.ou'irlit, 'back  rumoui's  oi  an  island  in  the 
Arcti''  (.'ircle  c;J..le/t  TIkiIcj,  aT:  .fir>t  welconietl  by  the  ancierils 
a-  ;;bv'onVic!'.nd''d'i-(-oV'(^ry-! 'bill 'afterwards  discredited.  In  the 
ninth  century  --onie  Irish  UKjnks,  carried  away  Ijy  r<'liuious 
euthusia-ni  and  an.  adventui'ous  spirit,  seem  to  havevisiied 
Iceland,  and  one.  Dicuil  by  name,  left  wiitten  evidence,  about 
Si'),  confii'minu'  tiie  <tory  (jf  the  island  Thule.  whieh  -ome  of 
the  bi-eihi'f'ii  \'i-ite(l.  and  re])(jrted  ihei'c  \va.-  no  dai'kru'-.-  at 
tlif  summer  sol-tice.  Other  and  \\'ulf<tan,  athirst  U)V  di<- 
co\'ery  ;ui'l  knowleilo-f,  set  sail  in  the  i'ei;i,'ii  of  Kinu'  Alfred. 
aU'l  in  all  ])i'obabilily  the  fcjrmer  rounded  the  Xoilh  ( 'a])e 
M-j\  \'i>ile<l  ihe  >hores  oi'  La])land,  ihinigii  his  exact  discovei'ies 
c;im!o1  now  be  i(lentificd. 

The  h;irdy  Xoiv-emen.  reuliziim;  the  advantau'e  (jf  hunling 
aud  l);i.ner  auionu'  the  nati\'(-s  of  (  rrecnhind.  made  permanent 
>eiii"me)|i>  ut  Hrattelid  and  f^uiar-fjord.  A-  far  as  ~'.)'^ 
iKC'iii  laliiude  a  c.airn  was  found,  and  U])on  a  runie  stone  ^^'as 
a.  'hi"''  ]'!'■',').  aud  iIktc  i-  (-xudenee  that  othei'  >('Trler-  reache(l 
;•-  i';ii'  ;:-  l;ililud<'  ~')  bi'  X.  and  ]);U'row  ."^trait  in  \'l'iV\  or 
ihiTeiiiioui-.  Toward  the  ufidiHc  of  ihe  fourtecnlh  cenlury 
Xi)!-.v:;y  \v;i-;  '•lU'^fd  with  t  h(>  Ilhick  Death,  and  the  coloiH.-V< 
ii!  i'.'ir-ofi'  ' '■(■(■'•nlaiid  wcr''  torii'onen.  I-"or-akeu  1  ly  then'  own 
ewun' i'Xi'K-ii.  t]]cy  rccci\-(Ml  liiilc  a--i-tauce  trom  the  nati\"(' 
hb::ii!ii  >-.  mr  we  read  they  wci-e  o\'cri'ini  and  altaek<'d  by 
'i:"!!!  ;ih()Ut  ]:;  1!».  A  rare  old  dociuni'iii.  ih^  oldest  woi'k  on 
Ar^-br  l:i  ^  ;:;■;!' Ay.  i-on-i-l  inii  of  -aiiiuLi'  (lireciidu-  for  i'e;aTuu£ 
thi'  ciiloiiy  fi'oMi  Iri  fill  1.  wa-  wi'iui'U  b>'  one  Iwa  Ibard-i-n. 
i':^'  -1'WaiA  of  ih"  ni-hoi)ric  of  dardar.  i!!  th''  Ib'i-t  iJyuA. 
lla.vMM!!    wa-  a   uaiiv'c  of  '  d-coniand  and  went    fortii   f(jr  the 


M.liA^riAX     (     AlU/l 


THE   CABOTS  6 

pur]50so  of  hol])in,G;  the  i^ister  colony.  All  of  this  early  his- 
tory' is  \-;(,<i\ie  and  unsalisfyin^-,  l)iit  it  shows  the  adventurous 
s])irit  of  those  early  mariners,  ^\ltllin  the  next  hundr(>d 
years,  that  is  to  say  between  I0I8  and  1448,  at  rare  intervals 
there  was  soiU(^  coniinunication  with  the  Greenland  settle- 
ments, but  fiiuilly  it  ceased  altofi;etlier.  Later  the  desire  1(j 
find  a  short  route  to  India  inspired  merchantman  and  niiunnor 
to  cross  tlu^Ai'ctic  Circle,  and  in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth 
centuri(  s  expeditions  of  note,  led  by  men  of  dauntless  spirit, 
find  their  record  u])on  th(^  ])ages  of  history. 

Born  in  Bristol,  En,i2;land,  about  147(),  Sebastian  ('al)ot. 
ambitious  son  of  an  adveiiTvu'ous  fatluM',  John  ("abot,  became 
zealous  at  an  early  age,  throu<i:h  the  successes  of  ('olumtjus, 
to  attem))t  a  like  achievement.  Father  and  son  ]iropo-ed 
to  ITenr}"  \'II  to  sail  west,  and  reach  India  by  a  shorter  route. 
The  kin<i-,  ]>leased  with  the  idea  of  enterinii  a  new  field  of 
marilime  discovery,  couiided  t(j  the  Cabots  the  execution  of 
this  ])!an.  A  ])atent  was  ^-ranted  March  5,  119(3.  "It  cm- 
])(_)wered  tla^m  to  seek  out,  subdue,  and  occu[>y,  at  their  own 
chariL'es,  any  rei^ions  which  before  had  Ixm'Ii  unknown  to  all 
( 'hi'istians."  Tliey  were  em])()W(M'ed  to  take  ])ossession  (jf 
sucli  lands  and  set  up  the  royal  banner.  They  were  au- 
thorizv^i  to  return  to  th(^  ])ort  (jf  I^ristol  antl  no  other,  and 
a  fifth  of  the  <i,ains  of  the  voya.ii'e  were  to  Ije  turned  o\'er  to 
the  crown.  4"he  followin.a  year,  1497,  John  and  Sebastian 
saile(l  from  Pu'lslol  in  th(>  <iT)od  sliip  Mdlhc^r. 

By  the  r(\'ords  of  an  old  maj)  of  this  ])('ri()d  llie  land  fir>t 
seeu  by  th(>  ( "ab(.)ts  was  The  coast  of  Xova  Scritia.  or  I-land 
of  ( 'a])e  I^reton.  Idie  ('abols  desi,una1e(l  the  maiiiiand  ;is 
'■  Prima  J'ei'ra  \'esta."  and  is  oMihncd  bciwetT!  b')"  wwd  oO', 
^howiuii  land  calhMl  St.  Juan,  no  doubt  j'rince  Ivi^vai'd  I-Iand 
and  moutli  of  lli(>  St.  La\vi'(Mice.  In  the  Pri\'y  Pu!'-c  e\j)en<''> 
ot  ILmu'v  \'1I  ihei'c  i^  tlic  followiuii:  intcri'-tino-  oxpi'iidiiurc 
"  lOth  of  Auu'u^t.    1  l'.»7.     J'o   liim   that    found   the   new   l.-h, 


4  rilE   a  BEAT    WHITE  yOTlTII 

£10."  Xo  doubt,  this  modest  sum  was  paid  for  Xewfound- 
land. 

With  the  entliusiasm  of  the  first  voyagers  stimulating  tliem 
to  fr(>sli  (effort,  the  Cabots  seeured  a  s(>cond  "patent''  to  John 
('abot,  dated  Fel)ruary  3,  1498,  giving  him  the  command  of 
six  v(\<sels,  of  not  more  than  two  hundred  tons  each,  and  to 
C[U(jte  the  exact  words  of  this  document,  "them  convey  and 
led(>  to  the  lande  and  isles  of  late  found  liy  the  said  John  in 
oure  name  and  by  oure  conunandment." 

But  bef(jre  the  small  fleet  was  in  readiness,  the  father  died, 
and  to  his  son  fell  the  enterprise.  With  five  vessels,  Sebas- 
tian set  sail  from  Bristol  in  ^lay,  1498,  and  reaching  the 
American  coast  ascended  as  high  as  67°  noi'th  latitude,  prob- 
ably ]^as<ing  into  Hudson  Bay.  He  detra-mined  to  pi'cs^  on 
in  a  desire  to  find  an  0])en  channel  to  India.  His  men  became- 
ai)])alle(l  at  tlie  dangers  that  beset  navigation  in  those  higher 
latitudes  and  mutinied,  comjX'lling  him  to  retrace  his  cour-o. 

There  is  a  vague  rumour  that  he  had  witli  liim  upon  this 
V(jyage  over  a  hundred  emigrants,  whom  he  landcfl  in  tlu'-e 
liiuh  latitude's,  and  who  all  ])erish(>d  from  cold,  although  the 
-ea-(jn  was  midsununer.  Howc^ver,  he  l)rouglit  back  to  I-Jig- 
huid  three  nati\'es  of  th(>  countries  he  had  A'isitefl,  and  for 
hi<  <ucc(-ssful  disco\-(>ries  of  more  than  oiiihteen  huiidi'ed  miles 
of  our  Xorth  Aiuf'ricau  coast,  the  king  rewarded  him  by  con- 
ferrintr  ui)on  him  rlie  office  of  (Irand  l^ilot  of  1-Jigland. 

Idie  interest  and  ex(M'tions  of  Sebastian  Cabot  did  not 
abate,  for  tliis  hero,  extolled  by  contemijorai'y  writers  for  his 
charaetei'  and  cf)urage.  by  his  unflagging  ])ei'sf'\'eranee  and 
indomitable  will  promotr'fl  the  succes-ful  ex]X'(lit ioii>  of  1  ").1M. 
tor  whieh  lie  was  a.i)])ointed  go\-(a'nor  for  life  of  the  Mu-covy 
("omi)any.  Idii.-  company  wa>  estaiili-hed  by  tlie  merejiaiits 
ol'  bniidoii  for  tlie  ])urpo-e  of  exteiidimi'  eonimei'ce  and  trade 
ill  linlia  a.nd  C;ii  liay,  aid  to  find  a  tiorthea>t  roiiie  that 
would  expedite  tlieir  enl(a'pi'i-e. 


wiLLovaiinv  AND  ciiAycKLLon  5 

Tlii'cc  shi])s  wvvo  fillcMl  out,  and  Cabot  dnnv  up  instnic- 
tions  which  arc  curious  reading  at  this  day.  Tlic  ex])C(htion 
was  uudci-  Sir  IIu<i,h  \\'illouji;hl)y  and  Richard  Chancellor,  and 
sailed  May  20,  1553,  ''for  the  search  and  discovery  of  north- 
ei'u  parts  of  the  world,  to  open  a  ^vay  and  ])assagc  to  our 
men,  for  ti'avel  to  new  and  unknown  kingdoms."  Cabot 
instructs  these  men.  to  treat  all  natives  "with  g(>ntleness  and 
courtesy,  without  any  disdain,  laughing,  or  contem])t."  If 
ihey  should  b(^  invited  to  dine  with  any  lord  or  rukn',  they 
should  go  armed  and  in  a  i)ostur(^  of  defence.  He  tells  them 
to  beware;  of  "j^ersons  armcHl  with  l)0ws,  who  swim  nakenl 
in  various  s(nis  and  harl)oui's,  desirous  of  the  bodies  of  men 
which  they  covet  for  meat." 

Of  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby,  first  in  conunand  of  the  Bona 
Spcraiizd,  it  is  recorded  that  he  was  tall  and  handsome  and 
had  i^roved  a  valiant  soldier:  of  Richard  Chancellor,  that 
he  was  behoved  and  genial  and  es]X'cially  noted  for  "many 
good  ])arts  of  wit." 

Thus  on  Hiat  briglit  morning  in  early  ^lay,  these  two  com- 
manders with  th(>ir  loyal  crcnv  sailed  down  the  Thames  amid 
tlie  firing  of  guns  and  che(M's  of  the  ci'owds  ass(Mnl)led  u])on 
the  river  baiiivs  to  wish  them  (;c)d-s])eed.  It  was  understood 
betw(MMi  the  connrianders  that  should  th(>ir  vessels  become 
se]iai'a1e(l,  they  sliould  tiy  to  meet  at  Wardhuys,  "a  goo<l 
port  in  I'inmark." 

The>'  ]):'()ce(>(l(Ml  noi'thward  and  ])asse(l  th(^  northermnost 
capi^  of  Ivurope  in  July.  At  night  during  a  dense  fog  and 
stoi'm,  th(>  two  shii)s  se])arated,  the  tlui'd  and  smallest  ke])t 
wiiii  Willoughby,  and  the  twi)  brave  commanders  and  theii' 
ciTWs  iiex'e!'  met  again.  Proceeding  noithward  sonu^  two 
hundre(l  miles,  reaching  Xcn'a  Zembla,  Willoughby  was 
forcinl  by  ilie  ice  to  ret  urn  to  a  lower  latitude.  In  Se])1emb(>r, 
155.'),  he  harboured  in  the  mouth  of  the  river  Arziiui,  in  La])- 
land. 


G  TIIK   GUKAT    WIHTE   XORTJf 

lie  wrote  in  his  journal  at  this  time:  "Thus  remaining 
in  this  haven  tlie  s])a('e  of  a  weeke.  seing  the  year  farre  s])ent, 
and  aUo  very  eN'ill  wether,  -  as  frost,  snowe,  and  hail(^,  as 
tliouuh  il  had  been  tlie  deepe  of  winter,  wee  thought  it  Ijest  to 
\\'inter  there."" 

In  .huniary,  aeeonhng  to  the  record  of  A\'illoughl\v's  jour- 
nah  ail  were  living.  In  the  s])ring  Russian  sailors,  ventui'ing 
in  llie>(>  higli  lalitud(^s,  w(n'e  sur])rise(l  t(j  see  two  shijis  frozen 
ill  the  ic(\  The  rclentii^ss  gi'i))  of  the  Arctic  winter  still  held 
tiiem  fast  ;  the  hand  of  death  in  its  most  gruesome  sluqx'  had 
reaped  its  hai'vest.  Not  a  man  survi\-ed.  How  bi'ief  tlie 
dciaiis,  yet  the  imagination  shudders  at  the  agonies  of  lh(>ir 
last  d:;\'s,  -  the  cold,  inlense,  congealing;  the  inqjenetrahle, 
melancholy  dark,  arnl  death,  la\ing  its  icy  fingers  u])on  the 
d(s));!iiijig  h(-art  of  each  in  tuj'ii  ;uid  the  'dast  Man,""  sur- 
rounded by  the  stai'k  foi'ms  of  his  comi)anions,  wi'estling 
alone  with  inexoi'iihle  fate. 

( 'l);ine(ll()r"s  \-cssel,  the  Bdiki  I'cntura,  reached  the  ]]i\y  of 
Si.  ?si('ho!as,  tiud  iaiidedi  near  Archangel,  which  was  ihen  hut 
an  i-o'.'iled  cd-lle.  He  undertooI<  ;i.  joui'iiey  to  .M(.)sc(.)W, 
\\'h:ch  recalled  in  succe>>f'ul  arrangemenis  I'or  eommercial 
ei;f erpri-c.  lin-siu  nt  l!ial  time  being  almost  as  litlle  Icnown 
::-  tlie  i'ar  east.  i!etrirning  siifelN'  to  l^ngiand,  lie  wa>  warmly 
\i'e|c()!iied    a.-    ha\'ing   ])ro\'e(l   the   ])raclical    utility   of   Arrtic 

()];(>  (if  l!ie  com])anio!is  of  ('hnncellor  (jn  this  \-()yage. 
Sie))i;('i;  l-iiiiToiigh,  n.iaterially  aided  by  Sebastian  ('abot, 
ih.'M  in  lii-  (  iglity-fourth  year,  set  sail  in  bl.lb  fi'oin  (;i';i\-e- 
,-e!id.  in  ;i  -iiKiil  pinnace  named  ilw  S( <irch-t/n'ifl.  j'efoi'e  the 
1 1' ]);i  r<  Mi'e.  the  -hip  ;md  crew  wei'c  \-isiled  by  ('abot,  an<l  it 
!-  I'^'.-iii'ded  oi'  ihi-  f;irewell  x'i-it  that  "Master  ('abot  ga\'e  the 
puor  Mio-t  iib-ei'al  ahiie^.  wishing  them  to  ja'ay  U)r  the  good 
''iii'i  uiie  and  |i!'i  i-p(  i'imi-  -i!cc(--  of  the  St  n  rch-lh  rifl :  and  f(ji" 
\ !  r\'   iMN    ;l:;ii    he  had  to  -ee  t(A\ardness  of  our  intended  dis- 


Mi;    lir.;ii    Wii.i. 


TlIK  CORTimKALS  7 

covcry,  ho  ontorcd  into  the  (hince  among  lh(>  r(>st  of  the  young 
and  histy  company;  which  being  (nided  hv  and  his  friends 
departed  most  gently;,  conmiemhng  us  to  tlie  govt>rnance  of 
Ahnighty  Ood." 

l^urrough  skirted  the  northern  coast  of  La,])hui(I  to  the 
eastward,  discovering  the  strait  leacUng  to  tlie  Kara  Sea, 
bc^twcen  Xova  Zenihla  and  Waigat.  As  a  n^sult  of  "Wu' 
great  and  t(MTibl(>  abundance  of  ice  tha,t  we  saw  with  our 
(\ves,"  Bui'n)Ugh  (\\pIor(>(l  no  farther,  but  sailing  into  tlie 
White  Sea  wintered  at  Coloniogro,  rc^turuing  home  the  follow- 
ing spring. 

As  (^arly  as  1500  a  Portuguese,  Cas])ar  Cortej'e;d  by  nanu^, 
(nidea\'oured  to  rc^ach  Cathay  1)}'  the  Northwest  Passage  and 
reached  between  50°  and  00°  north  latitude.  After  making 
captive  some  fifty-seven  nativc^s,  for  the  ])urpose  of  making 
tiieni  slaves,  he  returncnl  to  Lisbon,  October  18,  1501. 

The  following  3'ear  he  set  sail  again  with  two  ships  and  is 
supposed  to  luive  reached  Hudson  Strait,  where  tlu^  v(\ssel,s 
b(M'am(>  s(>parat(Ml.  Caspar  CortcM'eal  and  his  crew  wcvo 
nevc^-  heard  of  again. 

The  otlier  ship  returned  to  Lisl)on  with  the  unfortunate^ 
tidings,  and  a  l)rother,  Miguel,  set  sail  from  Lisbon,  in  the 
spring  of  1502,  on  a  sc^arcliing  expcnlition.  I'])on  reaching 
Hudson  Strait  the  shi])s  se])arat(Hl  to  ex])lore  tlu^  various  in- 
l(^ts  and  islands  of  the  locality.  Two  of  tlu^  shij)s  reacluxl  the; 
jioint  of  rendezvous,  but  the  third,  with  ^Miguel  Cortereal  on 
bo.ard,  never  appearcnl.  Thus  the  two  bi'others  sIuuxmI  a  like 
fatl^ 

A  third  brotluM-,  ^'asco,  ])eti1ioned  the  king  to  ef]ui]~)  anotlKM' 
ex])edition  to  s(Mid  in  search  of  the  missing  uumi,  but  tliis  the 
king  i'(>fused  to  do  on  the  ground  that  the  l(<ss  of  two  was 
gr(^ater  than  he  could  afford  to  sustain.  No  ti'lings  vrei-e 
ever  rec(MV(Ml  that  could  tin'ow  any  light  upon  the  sad  fate 
of  the  bold  mariners. 


8  THE   CUE  AT    WHITE   yOiri'II 

One  of  the  most  curious  ]:)ro(luetions  by  ji;oofrraplH'rs  wus 
a  nia])  ])ul)lish('(l  in  looS  l)y  one  Xiccolo  Zcno.  a  Waictiaii 
uoblc,  whose  auccstcjr  of  the  same  nanu^  had  left  with  notes 
and  journals  a  record  of  certain  northern  journeys  made  by 
liim  toward  tli(>  end  of  tlie  fcjurteenth  centiny.  lie  liad  en- 
fred  as  ])il(jt  the  service  of  a  mariner  named  Ziclmnh,  re- 
mainedmany  \'ears  in  liis  servic(\,  and,  joined  hiter  by  a  brother 
cahed  Antonio,  spent  some  time  in  a  coimtry  lie  named  Fi-i-- 
landa.  Later  both  brothers  fotmd  their  wa\'  i)ack  to  \"enic('- 
ddi(^  younj^  Xiccolo,  discovering  the  nnitilated  letter>and  nKi])s 
of  these  l)rothers,  ])r(jcee(led  to  prejjare  a  narrati\'e  and 
elaborate  map  which  was  consideretl  a  mo>t  \-aluable  addi- 
tion to  knowledge  and  continued  to  be  an  authority  for 
more  than  a  century. 

The  nam(>s  are  very  curious  and  confusing,  but  are  suj)- 
])0sed  to  be  identified  as  follows  :  — 

J']ngronelant,  Clrr-enland  ;  Islanda,  Iceland  ;  Estland, 
Shetland  Islands:  Frisland,  Far(K'  Isl(>s  ;  Macldand.  Xova 
Scotia:  r^stotiland,  Xewf(amdland  ;  Drogeo,  coa>t  of  X(M"lh 
America  :     Icaria,  c()ast  of  Kerry  or  Ireland. 

The  three  \-oyages  of  Frol)i<her  undertaktm  betwe(>n  ihe 
year-  blTii-blTS  were  in  a  great  measure  financc'd  by  a  rich 
;md  influential  merchant  named  Michael  Lok.  whose  ]);e--ion 
for  geogra])hical  research  led  him  to  encourage  the  youug  ex- 
])loi'ci'.  who  .-et  out  in.  th(^  s])ring  of  b")7<)  in  two  small  \'e--eb, 
ihc  (inhriil  and  Miclun}.  The  latter  ])arte(l  comi);m\-  in  the 
.Vtlantic,  and  the  ("rVz/y/'/r/  com  inued  her  \'oyai;'i'  alone.  Ih'o- 
l)idier  -iiihtcd  land  about  July  20  and  called  it  (^ueen  Idiza- 
Iwij,'.   For.'lan.l. 

'  'oni  inuin'i,'  on  hi-  cour-e.  he  cntereil  the  followinu'  day  the 
-n'ait  1  liat  bear-  hi-  name,  ealliliu'  t  he  land  "Mela  I  ncou-nil  ;i." 
lb'  inadf  a  landinu'  and  e.\])loi'(Ml  the  l;ind  to  -ome  extent, 
r.'i  ii!-ni:cr  1m  !'aiL!,l;ind  with  -oine  briiilil  yi'l'.ow  dt'c  windi 
a!'MU-c(l  the  '■nl!ni-i,a-m  of  irold  .-cekri'-  and  uTeath'  a--i-ted 


ynoBisHEi;  —  pkt  am)  jjckmax  9 

liini  in  cxp'Hliting  his  otlun'  voynv^vs.  His  primary  aim  of 
stM'kins^  for  \\\o  Northwest  Passa<2;('  was  all  l)\it  for<>;otton  in 
tlic  excitement  caused  by  tlie  possil)le  cUscovery  of  untold 
wealth. 

(^u(HMi  Elizabeth  issu(Hl  instructions  for  his  <2;ui(lance  upon 
future  \-oya;^es;  "'Vf  yt  be  ])()ssil)l(>,"  so  sta1(^s  tlu^  official 
documenl ,  "you  shall  have  some  {persons  to  winter  in  the 
straighi,  ,a;ivin,<;'  them  instructions  how  they  may  observe 
the  naiui'e  of  the  ayre  and  state  of  th(>  count rie,  and  what 
time  of  th(^  }('are  the  strai,L!;ht  is  most  fr(>e  from  yce  ;  with  who 
you  shall  leave  a  sufficient  ])re])aration  of  victualls  and  W(>a]i- 
ons,  and  also  a  jiynnas.  with  a  carpenter,  and  thyngs  neces- 
sarie,  so  well  as  ma\'  be."' 

The  second  journey,  nmch  better  e(iuipped  than  tlu^  first, 
brouj2;ht  diome,  Ix'side  specimens  of  })lants  and  st()n(\s,  lar^e 
([uantities  of  the  sup])osed  ^'old  oj-e.  I^ut  thou<i;h  th(>  di'i^am 
of  an  I'd  Dorado  v,'as  nc^ver  realized,  and  the  oi'e  was  eventu- 
ally ])rov(Ml  worthless,  l-'robisher's  i^rcndest  victory  to  sci(Mice 
was  ('stablishiu!^'  the  fact  that  there  were  two  or  more  wid(> 
oiieninti's  kniding  to  the  westward  betwecm  latitude  ()()''  and 
(K)  ~  on  tlu^  American  coast.  Of  his  jjei'sonal  character  we 
nole  with  inter'^st  that  he  was  a  brave,  skilful  leader  of  m(m, 
rough  in  b(>aring,  but  a  sti'ict  disci])linarian,  and  carried 
through  his  designs  with  the  enthusiasm  of  a  iv\w  ex])lor(>r. 

Arthur  Pet  and  Charleys  .lackman,  connnanding  two  v(\s- 
s"ls,  >et  out  ill  loSO  with  instructions  to  sail  through  the 
strait  leading  betW(>(Mi  Xova  Zt'mbla  and  ^\'aiga1 ,  and  from 
llicni'e  e-astward  beyond  the  Obi  Rix'ei'.  They  I'cached 
V.'ardhuys  on  the  'iod  of  .June.  About  two  \veel-;s  later  lhe\' 
appi'oached  \()\'a  Zemlila.  but  ice  i'(>1arded  iheir  adwmce. 
Tli'\-  sight(>d  Waigal  on  the  llHli  of  .luh'.  \\'hile  trying  lo 
])\i<]\  their  way  along  its  soulheni  coasl.lhey  wei'e  enibnr- 
I'as^ed  by  shallows  and  obliged  1o  go  round  by  llie  north. 
TI'.i'V   forced  iheir  \\'a\'   between  llie  >!iore  and  a   low   inland 


Ill 


THE   GUKAT    WHITE   yo HI' If 


only  to  l>c  closed  in  by  the  ice.  which  slo])])C(l  further  I)rog- 
fe<s.  The  shij)-  were  \vi(lely  sej)arate(l.  and  (-(jiiU  onl\-  cc^ni- 
niunicate  with  each  ot!i(-r  1>\'  the  l)eating'  of  (hums  or  firing 
of  nuisj-cets.  \\"arj)ing  their  shij)s  as  op])ortunit\' olfered,  they 
finally  g(rt  in  clox'i-  coniinunic;iti(jn.  Of  the  v»-eath(-r,  they 
write  a1  thi-  time.  "Winds  we  have  had  at  will,  hut  ice  and 
fog<  too  mucli  au'ainst  (Mir  wills,  if  it  had  ])!eased  the  Lord 
otlu-rw'i.-e."  Suri'(_)iuided  by  lieMs  of  ice,  en\'elo])ed  in  fog, 
th(\\'  were  oblige(l  to  make  fast  to  icehiergs,  where,  "abiding 
the  Lord's  pleasure,  they  conlinue(l  Avith  ])atience."'  J>\- 
the  f;^th  (jf  Augu-t  the  seas(jn  was  con>idered  too  far  ad- 
vanced to  penetrate  farther,  l^a  had  dis(;o\'ered  a  >trait 
between  the  mainland  and  A\'aigat  leailing  iiit(j  the  KaJ'a 
Sea,  and  with  thi-  n('Ws  he  returned  to  Ivngland.  Jackman 
wintered  in  a  Xoi'wegian  ])ort  ;  ,-ailing  home  in  the  spring, 
his  shi])  witli  all  on  boai'd  Ava.-^  lo.-t  at  sea. 

The  (li>tingui-hed  l-)rid-!i  n:ival  connnandei'.  Sir  num])lirey 
(iilbert,  near  relati\'e  of  Sir  A\'ailer  Pialeigh  and  fa\"()urite  of 
(^ueen  l-ilizabeih.  being  ambidous  to  colonize  Xewfound- 
land,  obiained  in  blTs  full  ];ov-'(  r  fi'om  tl;e  (jueen  to  \mder- 
take  a  \'oyage  (A  di-eo\-ery  aJid  <enle  >uch  ])ai1>  of  ]\orth 
America  "a-  no  ('In'i-tian  prince  or  his  --ubjeets  c(.)ulil  claim 
from  pre\'iou>  ])o>-er--ion."  JIi>  sec(inil  \'oya,ge  wa>  under- 
taken in  b")S:!.  and  wiili  h\'e  -Iiips  umler  his  command,  he 
sailed  out    of   I'lyniou'li   Souiiil.   .lunc    IL 

A  com  anion-  di-":i-e  breakiiiL!,'  out  on  mie  of  the  \-e->eL.  the 
propertx'  of  Sir  Walter  Piaieiuii.  and  conmiaiideil  by  ('aplain 
l-'>utler,    it    relnriieil    in    I'intiiand:    lln'    four    I'emainlnLL'.    the 

ijJnihf.  liie  ^o^^,'  //da/,,  1  he  Sav,//.,//',  and  ill-  Sr/./zV/v/, 
>igli1e(l  Nf\\-:oimi!!ai!d  abdiU  .hme  :i().  Here  lh.'\-  lani!e(I 
AiUiii-i  'b  l:iki:i'j.  pM--!--.i(ia  oi'  llic  laarbciu'  of  M.  .loiai'-  in 
ihc  !i:.iic-  ol'  (  Micen  Lli/;il 'I'l  li.  A  miner,  bi'ouuhl  'di'  the  jiur- 
po-e  of  hndicL^  ])ri'!-!o;;-  liietai-.  -honi,!  -aeh  exi-t  in  thf- 
ni'wb,-  ( r!-eo\-e:'ed   i.'iTitoi'w   elainied  lo  locate  a   .-il\'er   nain(.\ 


pre    r,i{rui    /:: 


.10  i  ".tat 


-iC      ^cr^ri'^  t 


-Mahtix  J'ii(  iuisiii:]{ 


sni  11 1  \M  I'll  HE  Y  (;  iL  HE  II  r 


11 


which  iKnvs  was  o-roctcd  v/ith  much  cutlmsiasin  b^'  the  en- 
tire heei.  So  nuui\'  of  the  crew  h:i\"iii<.>:  become  ill,  Sir  Ilum- 
])lirey  found  il  a(i\"isaliie  to  send  home  ihe  Sa'dlhur  with  tiie 
sick  on  bourd.  lie  then  emb:u'ked  on  the  SquiiTiI,  (A  only 
ten  ton>.  the  smallest  siii])  ot'  the  fleet. 

Sailin.ii  out  of  tlie  harbour  of  St.  Jolm's  on  Au,ii'ust  20,  he 
reached  1)\-  the  27th  latitude  44°  with  fair  weather.  Two 
days  later  a  <iale  aros(^  ])receded  by  a  dense  fo,2,'.  The  (iohicii 
Ili'iuk  and  l)(li(jht  wei'c  beaten,  in  amon,ti  tlu^  rocks  and 
shoals.  1die  (iid'hn  Hiinlc  siu.-na!led  to  stand  oui  to  sea,  but 
the  Diliijht  did  u(.)t  heed  thi>,  and  was  shortly  afterwa.rd 
wrecked  ui)on  a  s'aoal,  wiiere  her  stern  was  (fuickly  b(>at{-n  to 
pieces.  A  few  of  the  ci'cw  escaped  in  a  boat,  b\it  the  cap- 
tain and  :i  hundi'cd  men  went  down  v.'ith  the  shij).  The 
heroic  ('ai>tai!i  Browne,  only  I'ecently  transferred  from  the 
Siriillmr  to  the  (rol'ii  n  flimlc,  v\-hen  ur^'ed  to  save  himself, 
spuriie(l  the  idea,  and  sioo;!  bravely  at  his  ])ost  rather  tlian 
Ijear  tlu^  repi'oach  of  ha\'iii!i'  deserted  hi.-  ship,  thoti^nh  that 
sliip.  hiiiiseif.  and  all  haihl>  left  aboardt  w(>re  doometl  to  de- 
sti'uction.  ddie  >ma!l  !  loat  inti^  whicli  a  few  had  cro\\'de(l, 
drifted  about  ir;  the  mid.-t  of  the  uade,  which  threatened  e\"ery 
in.-tant  to  sAvamp  them.  4"hey  wei'e  without  food  and  su'Vered 
gi'c-at  ly  fi'om  ;hir.-i.  I''eai'ii!.2,'  the  o\'ererowded  bo;it  would 
founder  unless  matc-i'ialiy  li.u'htened,  a  man  name*!  lle;idl(\\' 
suu.''d'e.-t'Ml  that  lot>  be  drawn;  tho-e  drawing'  thefoiu'  .-hortest 
>]ioulil  bi'  tin'ovvn  Ov-c;'l)o,'i)'(l.  Ibit  oin'  of  thf-ir  number, 
Ibichar:!  Clarke,  A\'h(i  had  been  master  oi'  the  i)tjiij]it.  I'o-c  in 
the  lc.A\"  aiid  answered  .-ternly,  "Xo,  we  v.'ill  all  live  or  die 
in  eom])any.'" 

"^Vwn  more  da>'<  jsas-C'd  wilh  "ncrea^ed  -urferinL!:<.  They 
tried  to  appea-e  tlie  ]),nm-  (if  huiiirei'  with  <(awee(l  that 
iloa.ti-'l  on  the  -urface  of  th»'  wa.\'('-,  and,  the\'dl-rank  .--e;! -water. 
On  tlie  fifth  day  the  \wa\\  ilcadlcy  dieil  ;nid  one  otlaa'.  All 
])Ut   ( 'lai'ke  wca'e  Dra'.'inLi:  to  ( '.od  tor  d.catji,  rather  than  -ucli 


1:> 


THE    (.IIKAT    WHITE   XOllTH 


(■(iiii  iiuicil  a'j;oii\'.  ( "hii'kc  1ri(Ml  to  cncoui'a.u'c  lhcin  l)y  tcHin,ti; 
ihciii  ihcy  Would  >ufcl\'  i'c;u'li  land  \)\  ihc  niorrow',  and  if 
they  did  iiol  make  il  !)>'  llic  sc\-cnth  da}',  llii-y  miuhl  throw 
him  ()\-{'i'li()ai'(h  The  >c\'('nTh  (hi\'  came  at  la<t.  and  hy  noon 
thc\'  siiilitcd  hind,  as  ( 'larkc  had  ])r(j|)hc>i('d;  in  llic  after- 
noon t hey  huidt'il.  ddicy  tiavc  thanl<s  to  ( lod,  and  after  slak- 
inu;  tlieir  unliearahk'  tliirst  with  fresli  w;iter.  the  sti'onii,'  ones 
found  so!ue  hei'ries  "rowinji;  wild  witli  wliicli  to  feed  tlie  ])ai'ty. 
In  >e\'eral  ihiy>  they  ^lo\\i\'  re<iaine(I  their  -tren.^1ll. 

Later  the>'  rowed  alonti'  the  coa-t.  lio])in.i;'  to  reach  the 
bay  of  Newfoundland  and  jneT  some  S])ani-li  whak'r.s 
Avho  frequenle*!  these  watei'>.  They  sati.-fieil  their  huirii'er 
]>y  eatinii'  herrie-  and  ])eas.  huulinti;  at  inter\'al-  f(jr  the  ])ur- 
])o<e.  I-^i-forc  lonii'  they  fell  in  with  a  Spani-h  -lii]):  the 
captain  took  them  to  St.  Jean  de  Luz  in  the  liay  of  ]ji-ca\'. 
Landiim'  near  t!ie  rren.ch  fi'ontier.  they  t  ra\'elled  tlu'oim'h 
l''rance  and  reacheil  hhruland  ahout  the  end  of  the  \  ear  l."),s:-i. 

The  lo--  of  the  jjih'ijhf  wa-  a  -eriou-  hlow  to  Sir  IIumi)!ii'ey 
riildcn  ;  of  llie  fi\-e  -lii])-  witli  whicli  he  had  >tarted  onl\'  the 
(inbli  n  llinilr  and  the  Sij/dri'il  <ur\'ive(l.  Tlie  im])enet  rai  Je 
foii-  whic'i  at  thi-  junetU!'e  en\'elo])iMl  t  he>e  shijjs  Were  mo-t 
di-!ieai"i  enin.Li,'  to  the  crew,  and  already  the  pro\i-ion-  on 
i)oard  the  S'/nirrd  AVei'c  ruimini;;  low.  ( )fhcers  and  men 
lM-(iUL!.hi  Sif  llumphi'ey  to  I'eiurn,  lait  reluctantly,  \\ilh  no 
aliali-niriii  iu  hi-  enlhu-ia-!n  lor  adventure,  lie  only  con- 
senlfd  to  alter  hi-  cour-e,  upon  their  ])!'omi-e  to  emtiark  with 
huM  a'.:;iin  the  followitiLi  -pritm.  (  )!i  AuiiU-t  dl  tln-y  tui'nrd 
1  h<-ir  i  ,1 1\\--~  1  ( )Ward  home. 

<  )ii  1  he  'Jd  of  ScplcmlM'i',  lia\'iiiu'  liurt  hi-  foot  and  wi-hiirii'  it 
drc--(d    i 'y    the    -umvi  111,    Sil'    IIump!il'e>'    (lill'e!-1     lioardi-d    the 

(',,,hl.,i  //'"'/.,  and  l:Mer  ivpc;!ird  ihe  \-i-it  to  take  ])ai'l  in  an 
enl  "r1  ;iinmi'iii  with  the  cajitain  and  I'l'ew.  lie  imiiiioned  tin- 
^o^I■ow  ;ii  '\:t-  iM--  of  1  he  I )Ji,<hl .  aud  of  (■(■i-i;iiti  paptT-  aud  oiv 
thai    ihi'    Sa\o!i    mil.'-r    h:id    nroiMUvd    ill    N. wfoundla lid.       lie 


DA  VIS  —  BA  REX  TZ  1  3 

was  advised  to  rt^niain  al)oard  tho  Golden  Ilindc,  the  Squirrel 
l)eii!<i  so  eiu'uinhered  with  h(>avy  artillery  and  other  freight 
that  she  was  not  considered  safe  to  face  the  storms  so  likely 
to  occur  in  mid-ocean  at  that  season  of  the  year.  After  con- 
sid(-ration,  Sir  Huni])}u'(^y  rc^plied,  — 

"1  will  not  now  desert  my  little  vessel  and  crew,  aftc^r  we 
have  encountered  so  many  perils  and  storms  togetlier." 

Being  su])])li(Ml  from  th(^  Hinde  with  some  necessary  \m)- 
visions,  Sir  Hum])hrey  returned  to  the  Seiidrrel. 

On  tlie  9th  of  Se])teml)er,  in  the  latitude  of  England,  the 
overl)urd(>n(Ml  little  craft  of  ten  tons  sliowed  signs  (jf  found- 
ering. Sir  Hum])hi-f\v  was  seen  by  \hv  Hinde  -itting  in  the 
slern  of  his  vessel  with  a  hook  in  his  hand  and  was  heard  to 
call  out.  — 

''Courage,  my  lads!  we  ar(>  as  near  heaven  on  sea  as  on 
land!" 

At  midnight  sIk^  sank  with  all  on  ])(jard.  Thus  termi- 
n:ited  the  first  a1tem])t  to  cohjnize  tiie  inhosi)ila!)le  shores 
of  Xewfoimdland. 

P\)ll()wing  closely  u])on  the  disastrous  voyagf"  of  Sir  Ilum- 
])hre>'  (lilhert  (-ame  the  three  v()\'ages  of  Davis  betwcf^n  the 
ye;u's  ]  .IS.")  and  1 .58<S.  II(>  (U-cov(^re(l  the  strait  that  beai's 
his  name.  ()])ened  a  way  to  l^afhn  l')ay  and  the  Polar  Sea, 
anil  surveyed  a  considerable  extent  of  the  coast  of  Greenland. 

BetAveen  the  years  l.V.)4  and  b")00.  \\'illiam  Barentz  made 
three  joiu'iieys  to  the  Ai'etic,  lo^ing  his  life  in  the  disasters 
and  ]yi'i\'ati()ns  of  tlu>  la-t  voyag(\  Tn  this  tliird  vox'age,  he 
nuide  his  way  to  the  <ea  l)etw(>'''n  S])itzberii'en  and  Xo\'a 
Zembla.  Vv'here  he  wi'ites.  "Wf  came  to  so  great  a  heap(>  of 
ice  that  we  rould  not  sayle  thi'ough  it.""  In  .Vugust ,  b")9(), 
the\'  were  surrounded  by  drifting  ice  which  ci'u>hed  around 
tlieni  witli  -uch  alai-niing  h)rce  as  to  make  ""all  the  liaire  of 
our  head-  to  ri<e  ui)rigl!l  willi  feai'c.""  d"liey  made  CN'ei'y 
etVorl    t(.)   extricate   themselves    from    their   jjcrilous   ijosition, 


14 


THE  umcAT  nil  UK  soirni 


i)Ut  oil  ilu"  lull  of  Sc])t(']iilH-r  " w'v  saw  that  we  could  not 
u'ct  'out  ol'  the  irr,  hut  ratlu.-i'  hccauic  faster,  and  eould  not 
l(H)>r  Dur  ship,  as  at  other  times  v\-e  had  (bjue.  as  also  that 
it  tieuan  to  he  winter.  >(j  took  eoun.-ell  together  what  we  Were 
he-t  to  doi'.  accordiu,ii.'  to  the  time,  that  we  mijzht  winter,  and 
attend  >U!'h  adveuTuro  as  Cod  would  send  u>  :  and  after 
we  had  licbatcil  upon  the  niattei'  'to  kee])e  and  defend  oui- 
sei\-e>  hotli  fj'om  the  eoide  and  wiM  heast.-'.  we  da'trrmiued 
to  huild  a  hou-e  upon  t  he  land,  to  kee])e  u<  thei'e  in  as  well  as 
Wee  eoui'l,  auil  to  commit  oui'~  ■l\'e>  imto  the  tuition  of  Clod,'" 

^^d;ile  -eai'chimi  feir  juaterial  wherewith  to  huild  their 
winter-qu:irter-.  they  d.i-c()\-ere(l  ;i  ([Uaiitity  of  (h'iftwo(jd  for 
whieh  tl,ey  tiianke(l  ( '.od  for  a  -pccial  act  of  Ih'ovideiLce,  and 
"  w'riv  much  c<)m!'orled.  Ix-inu;  in  ivood  hope  that  (Wxl  would. 
show  u-^  --ome  fui'iher  favour  :     foi'  that   wood  >er\'ed  u<  not 


opp,'  to   (lUlid   oui'   tiou-e.    liUt    a'-o   to    I'Unie,   and   ,-ei-\'e   u-   a 


the  winter  lon'j.  :  otiierwi-e,  ^\'it!iout  all  doiiiit,  we  had  (lied 
there    mi-fl'aMy  with  ex^  I'eme  cold." 

In  -p.ite  of  ihc  intense  cold  whicli  m;ide  the  liuildin'i.'  of 
their  hut  mo-i  lahoriou-,  thei'c  wa~  open  water  an  "ai'row 
>hot  "  hivond  ^lieir  -hip.  They  d!"at:'ie(l  their  >tore~  on 
hand  -hd-,  and  hy  t)n.,her  tiieii'  d'.velHmr.  cloM'ly  thatched 
widi  -ea  rack  to  kerj)  out  ;i-  nmch  "oM  a-^  po-,-hile.  wa-  com- 
jth  i",h  ;ii|:!  -'w.^  -I't  HI)  our  dy.all  and  ma^le  the  clock  -tride." 
<  'ii  1  he  i  I  h  of  \o\"(  mil!'!'.  "  Wee  -aW  ;  he  >unne  no  more,  tor  it 
W'l-  no  loiio''!'  aho\-e  i^.i'  !:Mri/on:  ti^en  onr  chirur'i'io!!  na-dir 
a  ha"  h  to  'a;)ihe  u-  in  oi'  a  wine-pipi\  AV'hcr;  in  w.-.-  entij'.Ml 
oiie  ;ifo-r  anotiie]'.  and  ii  'iid  u-  much  uood.  i\\v\  \\a-  a  iinat 
nieane-  (if  Min'  heahh."' 

i!e'j'i!;iii.- Ill--  \\'(  r-'  e-t  ai'li-licd.  food  wa  -  am  )o!l  ioiii 'd.  ;ind 
(■■■'ri     .:^i'h!nL:     d'-i  I'ih^U  ed.       'lh';ip-     Weiv     -ei      i',,.'     hiX'^-     aiid 

o-  her  u;mii-,  hnt  -oon  i  he  wt-it  !:■■!'  heraaie  -o  riui  c'on-  t  h:  i  !'or 
Tiit  \'    we!'e    ill    daia  ne--    exc.^pt    lor   tiieir    (wr .    the    -mok'     of 


tn  t'!J  n-rr  i'l.! ri>a  ^u  co'ui  -hdi^ 


MU  11  ^\Il'lli;^:v  ( iii.nKKT 


nAHE.\TZ  15 

which  bocanio  uhnost  uii(ni(hiral)l('.  Ice  formed  two  incht's 
thielv  in  their  berths,  imd  their  misery  may  be  imaj2;ine(l 
better  than  deseribed. 

On  tlie  7tli  ol'  Dt'ceniber,  they  nianai2;ecl  to  secure  some 
coal  from  their  shij),  and  with  it  made  a  p;ood  fin^  which 
waruKMl  tbu>m  somewliat,  tliough  it  neai'ly  as])liyxiat(Ml  them. 
The  cold  becoming  ever  more  intense  and  tlieir  su])ply  of 
wood  (Uminislting,  tiieir  sufferings  are  Jioted  repeatedl}'  in 
ih(Mr  journaL 

"It  was  foul(>  weather  again,  with  an  easterly  wind  and 
extreame  cold,  almost  not  to  l)e(^  endured,  where  u])on  W(^e 
lookt  pittifuUy  on(>  upon  tlie  othei',  l)eing  in  great  feare,  that 
it  th(^  extr(\unitie  of  tlu^  cold  gixnv  to  bec^  more  and  moi'e,  wee 
should  all  dye  ltier(>  with  cold  ;  foi'  that  what  fire  socn'in'  w(>e 
mad(>  it  would  not  warme  us  ;  yea,  and  our  sake,  which  is  so 
hot.  was  froz(m  very  hard,  so  that  when  we  were  every  man 
to  have  his  ])art,  we  wvvc  forced  to  melt  it  in  the  fire,  which 
A\'ee  shar(>d  ev(M'y  second  day  about  halfe  a  ]iint  for  a  man, 
wh.cre  with  we  were  forced  to  sustaync^  ours(>lv(>s  ;  and  at 
other  times  we  (h'ani-:(^  water,  which  agreed  not  well  with  the 
C(il(I.  and  va^  iK-cded  not  to  cool(>  it  with  snow  or  ice;  but 
A\'i'  \V(>re  forced  to  melt  it  out  of  th(>  snow." 

I'h.'V  W(M'(-  often  awed  by  tiie  great  volumes  of  sound, 
'"like  t]i(>  l)ur>ling  asunder  of  mountains  and  the  dashing 
thcni  to  a.toms."  .\i)out  tii(^  nniddle  of  January,  they  W(M'e 
torccil,  undei'  grciit  difliculties,  to  s(>cui'e  wwvc  wood,  and, 
making  anotlier  ti'ip  to  thi^  vessel,  1h(\\'  h)un(l  imich  ice  accu- 
mulated witliin,  an.d  r(>turned  to  tlicii'  hut  with  a  fox  caught 
in  the  shi])':-  cabin,   whicli   provided  them   with   fresh  me;)t. 

( )i!  Twc'h'th  \ighi  th(y  m;ide  a.  Iiei'oic  effort  to  make  mei'ry. 
Tlicy  di'ew!ot>  for  the  honour  of  lieingkingof  Xo\'a  Zembla. 
and  the  ginniei' w;is  i'oyall>' in<t  idled.  Iinaginhng  tiiemsel\-es 
back  in  Holland,  tliey  drank  to  tb.e  threi>  kinu's  of  ( 'ologne. 
soakinu'  bi>cuit  in  the  \\'in.(>  that  U)Y  dax's  thev  had  set  aside 


1()  'nil-:  a  HEAT  wiiitk  soirrii 

out  of  their  scunt  slofc  to  cclcbralc  this  "•2;r(';it  feast."  But 
llic  iutcusc  (old  and  stot'iiis  that  soon  followed  excluded  e\-ery 
olhec  idea,  and  for  days  1hey  were  shut  in,  ti'yin.u;  to  hriuj^; 
wai'nilh  1o  llieir  frozen  bodies  with  hot  stones,  !)u1  while 
siltinii;  l)eh)re  the  fire,  their  hacks  would  he  white  with  frost, 
while  tlie'.r  st()ckinii;s  would  he  burned  l)c>f(ji'e  the}'  could  h>el 
heat   to  their  feet. 

Their  stock  of  provisions  was  })econiinj>;  exhausted,  and 
althou.uh  they  had  seen  traces  of  bears  and  heard  the  foxes 
running;  o\'er  their  heads,  th(\v  could  not  secure  any. 

On  January  2t,  ( ierard  de  \'eer,  Jacob  K(>einsdirk,  and  a 
third  c()ni])aiii()n,  u))ou  niakin,ii;  their  way  to  the  seaside 
toward  the  north,  saw  the  sun  above  the  horizon  for  \\\v  fii'st 
time.  Xot  havin.i!,'  ext)ecte(l  this  event  foi'  fourteen  days 
latei'.  Bai'entz  was  doul)tful  of  their  acciu'acy.  On  the  2()tli, 
one  of  their  nuinlx'r  who  had  lon,Li,'  been  ill  died,  and  they  du,ti; 
a  ,<i;ra\'e  se\-(ai  feel  in  the  snow,  "after  that  w  h.ad  read  cer- 
taine  chaptei's  and  suna,-  some  ])salmes,  we  all  went  out  and 
bui'ie(l  1  he  man." 

As  da\'li,iiht  increased,  they  left  their  hut  for  sh.ort  ])eriods 
of  e\erci>e. 

])>■  .Ma\'  their  impalienc(>  to  lea\'e  this  desolate  s]M)t 
prompted  them  to  make  pi'eparat  ions  for  deparlur(\  and 
without  uaitinu'  to  <ee  if  tlieii'  ship  would  be  naxiiiable  wIhmi 
once  i'e!ea--(>(|  from  the  ic(\  they  I'cpaired  their  two  boats 
and  awaited  the  fii'--t  opportunity  "to  ucl  out  of  that  wilde, 
depart,   irke-ome,    feai'full,  and   cold   counti'ey." 

On  the  bithot  June,  l  lie  t  wel\e  sur\-i\'ors  left  I  he  mi-eraiile 
--helter  th;!l  had  been  their  home  foi'  ten  months,  and  tool; 
to  the  open  b();it-.  d'helf  su  rfei'inti;^  and  pi'iwil  ion-'  c;mnol 
be  de-eril  ,(.,|  ;  1  h  I'ee  (if  thcii'  number  suceumbed,  and  lia- 
I'eiilz   liim-ell'  became   loo  ill    tor  sei-\'ice. 

A-  llie\-  i);i--ei|  b'y  ('ape,  a  lie;idl;md  of  Ala-ka,  latitude 
70     'Jll'  X..  loic^itude  l(d^    1(1'  W..  liaivntz   asked  lo  be  lifted 


r,t     > 


I 


"-*=^- 


-n 


1. 

5i       >>'     ' 

in    ; 

*-   "_ 

'  ',     V 

T 

mn 

.            ^            . 

/:    J 

-^        f 

;         1 

^                           i 

^       ,"'/ 

'«  '! 


UAllEX'lZ  1( 

u])  to  s(M^  it  i)\wv  inoro,  and  the  (l\"iii<;'  man's  eyes  rcstml  with 
})l(';isurc  ui)(>!i  its  cIumtU^ss  ('(Just. 

On  the  1  \v(Mili('th  (la\'  of  Jun(\,  ]^ar(Mitz  was  told  that  a  man 
in  the  otlicr  boat  named  ('la(\s  Aiuh'iz  was  near  death.  He 
remarked  he  would  not  lon<2;  survive  his  conu'ade.  He  was 
e\;uninin<;'  at  the  moment  a  chart  of  the  co\mtri(^s  and  ol)- 
jeets  they  had  seen  (.)n  their  vo>'asi'e.  He  turned  to  CJerard 
de  \'eer,  who  had  made  this  ehai't,  and  asked  him  for  sonu>- 
thin,a;  t(.)  drink.  Hardly  had  he  swallowed  the  liquid  when 
he  suddenly  ex])ired.  Saddened  and  disheartened,  the  rem- 
nant of  this  unfortunate  (wjiedition  stru<i'<;i(Hl  on  mitil  Sep- 
tember, when  the}'  reached  the  coast  of  Lapland. 

After  a  voya<2;e  of  elevc^n  lumdred  and  forty-three  miles, 
these  heroes  of  th(>  north  left  their  ])()ats  in  the  ''M(M'chant's 
house"  at  ( 'oola  as  "a  si<iii  and  t(jken  of  their  deliverance." 
A  Dutch  ship  carried  them  to  Holland,  where  they  a])])eared 
lu'fore  the  curious  crowds  of  Amsterdam  in  the  co<ttnne  they 
had  woi'n  in  Xo\'a  Zembla.  The\'  were  h(.)noured  by  their 
countrymen  an.d  made  to  I'epeat  their  wonderful  ad\'entures 
before  tlie  mini-^ter>  of  the  lla.U'ue. 

I'o  the  eai'ly  maps  of  the  period  at  the  close  of  the  sixteenth 
cent  U!'y,  Xewfoundland  and  adjacent  coast  line  had  been 
added  by  the  ('al)Ot-^,  who  had  reached  as  far  as  ()7°  north 
latitude.  r'robi>lu'i'  Sti'ait.  an  outline  of  the  lands  that  he 
had  \-isitcil.  Davis  Strait,  and  a  ])ortion  of  (Ireenland's  east 
coa-t.  \^\v^ .  moi'e  im])ortant  than  the  discovt^ry  of  new  leiTi- 
toi'v  w;i.-  the  stinmlus  to  Arctic  entei'])rise,  which  throuuh 
I'icnai'd  ('hanceilor  had  e>tabli>he(l  \'aluable  trading'  acti\"i- 
tics  between  1-Ji^land  and  far-distant  IvUssia.  The  journe\-s 
of  tlie  ('ot'/reals  had  o])ened  a  wa>'  to  Spanisli  and  Portu- 
,uucs(>  fisi!erie>  oif  the  bank<  of  Xewfoundland,  and  Frobi<lier"s 
suppo.-ed  (lisco\-er\'  of  <j:old  in  distant  lands  had  ^i^iven  zest 
to  (l!-c(i\-er\- in  the  X(>w  World  !>\'the  l^imlish.  exemi)lifie(l  by 
Sir  fluinpluey  ('.ilbei't's  dai'insi  but  misuccessful  attemj)t  to 
(■'.ildui/e  Xewfoundland. 


CILVrTER    II 


^.'■\-ciitc('tiili  nml  fiu'liTcfiilli  fi'iiturics  :  ITiul>on.  —  RafRii.  —  Dc-h- 
i:.-i'.''.  1  ')i'lirii!!j,\  -  S<-li;ilar(jf'f.  —  Tchil-cliauxjf.  —  Aiijou  and  \\m 
Wraii-t  11.  -riiii)ps. 

Xo  ccnlury  !ia-  ])ro(luc('(I  a  more  dariny;  or  rciiownod 
iiiariiii'i'  ihaii  Iltiii'v  Hud.-on.  (jr  one  wlio.-c  melancholy  fate 
lia~  ])ri)\"()k(Ml  more  ])it\'.  I)(PA'u  Tlii'nii<:h  the  decatlcs  tlic 
>i()]'\'  of  hi-  ad\'('nTuro.-  has  liccn  lold  and  I'ctold  at  ihc  firc'sidc 
of  liic  old  t(j  the  ca^iicr  car.-  and  (luickcninji  inia;i,'inalioii  of  the 
younu'. 

Talcntf-d,.  iiid.cfatiLL'ahlc.  fcai'lc>s.  his  achic\-cincnt s,  in  the 
infancy  of  Arctic  c.\])!oi'a1  ion.  handicajjpcd  hy  the  hudv  of  all 
that  in\"cniion  and  sci<'ncc  ha.-  .-ccurcd  to  modern  e.\])lorei's, 
])lace  him  in  the  fir-t  rank,  with  the  orea1e-t  na\'iuator<  the 
wiirld  ha-  kniiv/n.  .\-  e;irl\'  a-  lt)()7  he  had  di-t  inuni-tied 
him-clf  !i\-  pn-hinu' a-  fa!'  noi'th  a-  lat  it  ndc  si  ^  ^,".  in  hi-  eiVort 
to  follow  the  in-tructions  of  ihe  Mu-co\'y  ( 'ompan>'  to  peiie- 
1ra1e  lo  I  lie  I'ole.  .\1 1  enil)t  iliU' t  lie  Xorl  he;i-t  ra--aii'e  iii  IhOS. 
he  .-;nv  Xurt  !i  ( ':[])r  ()]\  I  lie  iM  of  June  :  jtu.-hinu'  to  the  ea-t- 
w'ard  on  parallel-  7  \''  and  7')'.  la-  -killed  Nova  Zemhla.  hut 
foninl  ii  im|)o--ihlc  to  pi -net  I'ate  Ihc^lici'  i  han  72^  2.")'. 

The  111  \t  yeaf  tlic  Dnlch  -ent  him  to  t  I'y  thi<  l)a-.-ai:e 
a:r.'iin.  tiioM'.i.h  the  prexdnu-  voyaii'e  had  coiudnced  him  that 
i!;e  >,  ( ,ri  hi  M-i    Pa--aU''  wa^  iti  i]  )ract  ical. 

!!•■   ra—'d    \\';.:-hii>--.   reiurninL!.'  pa-t    North   ('ape.   i)U-hinii.- 

hi-    Way   "m   the    Ame!'ii-,'ili    cna-t.    wficre   he   -earched    iMl'  a    pa-- 

■s  inii  I  Xi-w  ^'<lrk  harlniur.  ih-ci  werei !  the  maiL- 
'1  i,.i, 


iliii-'eal      ri'.'e!'    whirl!     he']!'-    id-    naHie.        Thi-    -plejlilld    .achleX'c 

me!  It  oni\'  .~t  ii'i'ed  hi-  am  hit  ion-  fni't  her.  and  under  t  he  pat  ron 


is 


irrnsox  ID 

:it!:o  of  Sir  .lohii  Wolstonholmt^,  Sir  Du(ll(\v  Dip;,2;os,  and  oilier 
(lisliiiiz;uis!i('(i  men,  u  vcrisel  of  fift,y-tivc  tons  was  fitted  out 
and  ])rovisi{)n((l  for  six  months. 

I'ndcr  the  comniand  of  Hudson,  the  Discorcry  set  sail 
A])ril  17.  1(110.  Touchinji;  at  Orkney  and  Fai'o  islands,  they 
siiihtiMl  the  southeastern  pari  of  Iceland,  May  11.  Later 
they  reached  the  N'estnianiui  Isles,  and  saw  Mount  lic^cla  in 
(n'U])tion.  On  June  4,  Hudson  ^\•rites,  "This  day,  we  saw 
(dreenland  ])(»ri'ectly  over  the  ice  ;  and  tliis  ni<2;ht  the  sun  Avent 
down  due  norlh,  and  rose  north-north-east,  so  plying  the  fifth 
day  we  were  in  G.")°." 

Takinji'  1heii'  eoiu'sc^  northwest,  they  passed  C'a])e  Deso- 
lation. A  school  of  whales  was  si,u,hted  at  this  juncture,  and 
later  iceher.u's  were  encountered.  In  June  tliey  saw  liesolu- 
tion  Ishuid  :  .u'ointi  to  tlu^  south  of  this  island,  they  were 
carfied  by  the  current  northwest,  \uitil  lhey  struck  shore  ice, 
from  which  it  A\'a>  most  difhcult  to  (wtricate  thenr^eh-es. 

At  ihis  time  a  <iT<>^vin,!i-  discontent  anion,!;;  tlu^  men  first 
ai)pear('(l  on  board  :  some  were  for  returnin,^;  l)efore  tlu^  ]ieriLs 
of  the  journey  sliould  become  <i'j'eater,  others  were  for  con- 
tinuinsi'.  Hudson  sliowed  them  ;i  chart  showinji'  that  lhey 
had  sailed  Ivv'o  hundre(l  leagues  f;u'lh(M'  ihan  any  Enti;lishni(>n 
had  sailed  before.  The  situation  of  the  slu]),  at  times  cm- 
bedded  in  ice,  at  oth.crs  ])usl!in,<i'  hei-  way  through  leads  of 
o])en  A\ater,  \\'as  ci'itica.l  and  discouraiiing,  but  Henry  Hudson 
continiU'd  liis  intricate  navigation,  finally  being  rewarded  by 
finding  himself  in  a  clear,  open  se;i.  Sigliting  three  head- 
lanil>.  lie  called  1hem  Prince  Hem'\'  ("a])e.  King  Janu's, 
and  (^iiieen  Anne,  and,  conlinuing,  he  saw  a  hill  which  he 
called  Morml  Charles,  and  latei-  siuiited  (■a])e  Sali-l)Ui'>'. 
A\  liile  exploriiiii'  llie  south  >l!ore,  h('  disco\'rre(l  an  i>!and, 
one  i)()int  of  wliich  he  named  Dee])e  ('at)e.  t!i(>  otliei', 
Welstetiliolme.  Ife  entci'cd  a  ba\',  A\'!iich,  fi'om  the  date, 
he  called  Michaehua>  I5av. 


10 


ri/K  CHEAT  wiiiTi:  xoirrir 


The  season  was  adx^anciiiii;';  already  Hie  days  were  very 
short  and  llie  ni,iz;hls  Ion,*;'  and  cold.  l{ea!izin,<;-  it  was  lime  1o 
find  sliellei'  I'oi-  llie  winter,  he  east  about  to  (hscovei'  a  suital)le 
location.  Hy  the  fii'st  of  \o\-eml)er  he  had  the  vessel  liauled 
ai!;roun{l,  and  ten  days  latei-  it  was  fro/en  in.  The  stock  of 
IX'ovisions  was  very  low,  hut  thc^  men  supplemented  it  hy 
killin.u;  or  trappin.u;  an\'thin<2,-  that  was  ser\-iceahle  for  food, 
and  aft(>r  ,!;ame  left  them  in  tlu^  spi'in_u;.  tlie\'  lived  on  such 
l)i!'(;s  as  tlie\'  could  secui'e  ;  Avhen  these,  too,  mi,iira1ed,  t  he\- 
at(^  moss,  froiis,  and  buds. 

With  t  !u>  l)i'eakin,<i'  up  of  the  ic(-  in  the  s])rin,u',  preparations 
were  made  for  returuinu'  home. 

In  Hudson's  own  l)a>',  in  1  he  cold  embrace  of  the  shoi'es  he 
liad  explored,  IlejU'y  Hudson  di\'id(Ml  the  last  reumants  of 
food  e(]uall\'  amonu;  his  men.  They  \\'ere  a  faiui.-lied,  de- 
s])airin,u;  crew.  iiKuhlened  with  suCfei'in^t!,-.  Tli(>  cr_\'  foi'  bi'ead 
was  in  theii'  \-ilals,  and  tliere  was  no  bi-e;id.  llun^ucr  and 
miser}'  made  their  b|-ains  reel,  I'oblxMl  them  of  theii'  ?i,'odli- 
ness,  and  rediiced  them  to  wild  animals  at  bay.  It  took  but 
the  encoui'a<i('ment  of  one  of  their  numbei',  (  '. I'een  by  name,  to 
incite  1  hem  to  mutiny. 

On  June  21,  ''The  shii)'s  comi)any.  both  sick  and  well, 
were  in  berths,  di-pes'sed  t^'enei'aiiy  two  and  two  about  the 
ship.  Kin^',  one  of  the  crew  who  was  su|)posv'd  to  be  fi'iendly 
to  Ilud-on.  was  uj),  and  in  1  lie  mornim!,'  1  iie\'  secured  him  in  1  he 
hold  i)y  fastcniii!:;  d(twn  the  hatches.  (Ircen  thci;  went  and 
held  the  carpenter  in  con\'ei--;at  ion  to  anmse  him,  \\!iile  two 
of  the  ciMW.  kecpiiiji;  ju-l  before  IJud-^oii,  and  oiii'.  named 
\\  il-on,  behind  him,  bound  his  haiid>.  lie  ,M-!-,.'d  \\h;i1  ihey 
w  ere  ;  I  bout ,  and  1  lie\'  Inid  him  he  should  kin  )\\'  when  he  w;;!-  ui 
the  -halliip.  Another  uiiMiiieer,  ,Iue1,  Wen;  (liiWM  i!>  Kin;.'," 
in  the  hold,  win  i  ki  pi  him  a  1  1  saw  bi^inu'  a  I'liied  wit  ii  1.!  -'  -w  oi'd. 
lie  c;nne  upiHi  f\<rrl.  P)  Him'-dm.  whoin  lie  fonnil  wilh  his 
hand,-  tied.       Hudson  wa,-  he;ird  to  i';ill  1o   the  c;n-pen1ei-,  ami 


Till.    I  )L  \  I  li    '  '1     I  I  i.\  i:"!     I 


BAFFLX  —  IlFAlIUya 


21 


1<'ll  him  lie  was  lM)un(l.  Two  of  the  devoted  party,  wlio  wen^ 
sick,  told  1h(~  mulineers  their  knavery  would  he  punished, 
'^rhey  ]>aid  no  allentioii  ;  the  shallop  was  hauled  \\\)  to  the 
side  of  1  he  \-es>el,  and  lh(^  sick  and  lame  were  made  to  get  into 
ii.  The  carpenler,  whom  they  had  agrecnl  to  retain  in  the 
vessel,  asked  iliem  if  lh(>y  would  not  be  hanged  when  they 
reached  I'^nglaitd,  and  Ixjldly  refused  to  I'emain  with  them, 
))referi'ing  to  share  the  fate  of  Hudson  and  th(>  sick  men." 

The  crew  tlien  set  sail,  and  the  boat  in  which  wei'e  Hudson 
and  his  com])anions  was  nevei'  s(H'n  again.  After  many  hard- 
shi])s  and  vicissitudes  and  nnich  loss  of  life  through  the 
onslaught  of  the  iLatix'es,  where  they  landed  to  secure  food,  a 
renmarh  of  ihe  unfortunate  ci'ew  found  their  way  ])ast  the 
("aj)e  of  (iod's  Mercies  and  thenc(>  to  ('a])e  Desolation  in 
(  h-eenland.  Pursuing  their  homewai'd  ccjui'se,  they  were  re- 
duc(>(l  to  the  la^l  extremities  b}'  lumger,  one-half  a  fowl  fi'ied 
in  tallow  ])er  man  being  their  onh'  sustenanc(>  each  twenty- 
foiu'  hours. 

.bl-1  bcfoic  llieii'  \{\>\  ])ii'd  wa<  devoiU'ed.  they  sighted  \\\o 
north  of  Ireland,  \\iiei'e  they  landed,  and  later  made  their 
wa\'  lo  I'lyniouth. 

I'lillowing  \\\i-  example  of  ITud.'-on,  and  with  the  ]:>ur])Ose  of 
further  disco\-er\',  P>aflin  set  sail  in  KiKi  and  exi)lor(Ml  1he 
\"ast  bay  eig!i1  lumdred  miles  long  and  thi'ce  hundred  miles 
wide  that  beai's  his  name.  He  saw  Lancaster  Sound  and 
brouuht  home  ol>sei'\'alions  and  reports  of  lalilude  and 
louuilude,  the  accuracy  of  which  wa<  doubted  for  many 
ye;!rs,  bul   has  since  been  verified  and  accrediteil  to  him. 

i'-(iually  tragic  with  the  f;ite  of  Henry  Ihuboti  was  the 
\[i<\  \"oyage  of  lha1  gr(^at  Pussian  C(.)nmiander,  Ijchring, 
^vllo-^e  lil'e  \v;is  one  long  recoi'd  (^f  heroic  achievement.  He 
hail  -('(11  many  ])arls  of  the  woi'ld  whil(>  sei'\ing  under  Peter 
llii'  ('.feat,  by  whom  he  was  y:i\'en  ihe  commis-ion  of  li(-u- 
teuanl    in    1707,    and   ca])taiii-lieutenant    in    1710.      In   a  ])i'e- 


■2-2  THE  (niEAT  whitk  yoirrji 

vioiis  A'()\'a,ir('  lie  had  ('X])loi'c(l  the  sti'uiTs  which  l)(>ar  his 
iiainc  l"h(>('  straits  liad  hccii  iia\'i<iat(M[  liciirly  a  century 
l)cfor«^  hy  DcslmciT,  one  of  the  early  iiu.-siaii  ex])lorers  who 
made  se\'('ral  X'oyaut  -  between  1040  and  10-16.  His  <:,reat 
object  WMS  In  rotuid,  t(j  tiie  ni(juth  of  the  Ana<lr\'  Piiver, 
an<l  there  form  a  traders'  settlement.  Deshneff  and  his 
con!])anions  wre  the  fii'st  navigators  to  sail  frcjm  the  Arctic 
Scu  to  the  Paciiic,  and  ])r(jved,  at  a  miicli  earlier  ])eriod  than 
i-  <i.'enei'all\'  >ii]")])(j.-ed_,  that  the  continent.^  of  America  and 
Asia  are  not  uniteih 

liehi'ing  -el  .-;til  .June  1,  1741.  \\ith  t^\•o  vessels  from  Kamt-- 
chaika  in  the  hai'i>our  of  St.  I^'ter  and  St.  Paul.  Steering 
ea-1^\■al■d  toward  the  Am(-i'ican  continent,  he  -iglited  land  the 
isth  of  .Jul\'.  in  latitude  .IS'  2s'  and  o(j'-  longitude,  from 
Analr-dia.  ('a])tain  T^chirikow  A\-ho  conmuudeil  this  sc'coml 
I'oat,  had  -eeii  tlie  landi  n  U-w  days  ])re\"iou~ly  and.  ha\"mg 
d(-lernnne(l  to  -.-nil  ^on;('  men  a-hoi'e  for  in\'e.-t iii'at ion.  the 
.-hallei])  and  long-boat  wi-i'e  maniK-d  with  sex'enTcen  <jf  the 
cr;-\V  for  thi-  ])Uri)o-e.  'hhey  nevei'  I'etumed  to  the  >hi]). 
Such  a  !i:'a\-c  di>a-icr  detei'nhn(-d  Jjehring  to  send  this 
\"e--i'l    bail;    to    Kanit-ehal  ka. 

He  ])roe(-(Mlc(l  on  hi-  \-oya,ii.e  alon(',  ho|)in<r  to  rc^ach  as 
hi  lib  biTit  udi'  a-  i)(  I',  but  prou'rc--  wa.-  >!i,\v.  owint::  to  t  he  \'ai'ied 
i'oa-1-iine  ;uid  the  labyi'inlh  of  i-laudi--  wiiich  bordc)-  tlii- 
\'i''iniiy.  d'f.f}'  fi-li  in  witli  ;t  U-w  nati\'i'<.  \vl:o  had  b(-cn  on 
a.  fi-bin'j.'  ex|>'H;n  ion.  wiib  whom  thf^y  iMld  -ome  fi'i'^ndly 
iniircM]irM-.  bro'^n--  cdniinued  i<>  be  ri  larded  by  calms 
and  cui'i'enu-,  and  finally  iln'iy  wcathi^r  -'-l  in  early  in  Srp- 
I'liibci'  ;,no  I'.'iL^'i!  m  ,-!   \iiiiiiii   -i.frm  foi'  -I'X"' ntccn  d;i\>-. 

4  ;j-  -'":!'■,•;/  n^'W  ;!'t;c'k.'d  bee  ci'i-w.  and  numi-mi;-  df:ii  h< 
O'^rmTid.  b.i  !  rin'^'  d' i<i'miiii'd  to  rri  urn  tn  Kcmt -''liat  ka. 
d'hri^n'^h  ;in  unh  i;"".m;!^ '  ■  i>lundei\  ih<-y  'iTcil  in  ihiir  cour-e. 
en  '  l;inil  i'''ni;hni'd  \'w:-\'^-\i-.  'I"l:c  :i;  ii  »ri  Kehi  of  winlrr 
bei-niii'   ;i';!i'nnn::'.   li,e   cold   inr|-ia-i'd.    an.d   rain   turncbi   lo  ice 


BKIllllXG  -l-'i 

and  v-wQW.  Th(>  unfortuuutc^  crcnv  wore  in  a  pitiable  coiidi- 
tioii  iVoui  tlu'  niiscrahlc  discntsc  that  laid  hold  of  them.  The 
Hteei'siiian  had  to  Ix^  supixnled  at  the  \vh(H>l  by  two  other  sick 
men  that  he  might  coiitiime  at  his  post  of  duty.  Finally 
lie  was  disabled,  and  men  hardly  more  fit  took  his  place 
one  by  on(\  Almost  daily  some  one  died,  and  the  ship,  no 
lon<z;er  witli  enough  hands  to  man  lu^-,  was  at  the  mei'cy  of 
the  elements.  The  nights  became  long  and  dark,  the  water 
su])i)ly  was  running  low,  and  certain  destruction  and  death 
awaited  the  rc^nnant  of  human  beings  left  on  board,  unless 
a  harbour  of  I'efuge  could  l)e  found. 

At  last  on(>  morning  land  was  sighted.  Tlie  a]:)])roach  was 
diflicult,  th(^  ship  so  ci'ippled  as  to  be  almost  unmanag(uible, 
and  the  rocks  threatened  instant  destruction.  Darkness 
came  on  1)efore  they  could  make  a  landing.  In  tlieir  att(nn])t 
to  anchor,  two  cables  parted,  and  the  anchors  were  lost; 
they  had  no  third  anchor  in  r(>adiness. 

At  this  juncture  it  secnned  as  if  the  hand  of  Pi'ovidenco 
interv(>ned,  for  a  huge  wave  lifted  them  across  a  sand  bar, 
belween  a  narrow  ()i)ening  of  high  rocks,  and  tliey  found 
■lh(>msel\'es  in  eahn  water,  where  the  next  da\'  tlu\v  made 
a  succes>ful  landing.  Tlu^  land  ])i'o\'ed  a  barren  and  treeless 
island,  foi'tunately  A\'ell  sii])|)!ied  with  game,  but  ihe.re  wtis 
no  h.ut  or  shelter-  of  any  kind,  showing  it  to  be  iminhal)ited. 
Such  of  llie  crew  as  wen^  :d)le  made  slielters  und(M'  ])rojecting 
sauil-biuilcs,  u^ing  sail-clotli  to  keep  out  1h(>  wind  and  cold, 
and  lliere  they  brouglit  1lu>ii'  sic]<  ;ind  d\'ing  com.rade^.  F>ut 
the  sliock  to  some  of  the  sicke<t  ]iro\'ed  fatal,  and,  liefoi'e 
thi'ir  dead  bodices  could  be  inPM'red.  foxes  attacke(l  ;uid 
(le\-oure(l  ])oi'tions  of  the  hands  and  f(>et. 

A  six'cial  sh(>lter  was  imah^  loi'  the  brave  old  ca])tain.  now 
I'i'duced  to  ihe  last  exl  remit  i(-s  of  disea-e,  his  Ijody  {'inaciatcd, 
liis  mind  (Mifecblcd.  He  was  mo\'ed  XoN'cmlier  \\  and  thd'e 
he   lay  d.ying,  ]iassing   the  W(ary  hours    in    tlu^   vagaries   nf 


lii 


TiiK  (.itr.A'r   Willi  1-:  yairni 


{Iclii'iuni,  1 ) y  covcrinu'  his  shrunken  form  wilh  >;ni(l,  ijial\iiii!; 
his  own  li'raN'c,  a-  il  were  uiitih  on  Dc'ccniocr  s.  17  l\ .  h(-  j)a.-.-('(l 
away.  There  he  rest>,  l>ehrin,u'  Ishuid  his  se])ulcin'e,  and  his 
name  is  u])on  e\'ery  map  of  the  world,  ,-heiwin,u'  lhe  .-ti'ait- 
(H\-i(Hn,ii-  Xorlli  America  and  A.-ia,  throuji,h  which  he  .-ailed 
in  lhe  ,ulory  of  hi>  ])rime. 

The  command  \\'a-  now  under  A\'axall.  who  rallied  hi>  mt^n 
to  superhuman  elf(jrt.  that  lhe\-  mi.uht  ])a.->  lhe  wear\'  \\-in1ei' 
and  allempT  makinu'  their  esca])e  in  the  >i)i'iii,u-.  A  f-'iu'hlful 
blow  1(j  their  ho])es  \\'as  the  wreckinii,'  of  tlieir  ve.--el  and  a  !o-- 
of  valuadle  fo(jdi  supl)lies,  Avliicli  i(Kjk  place  the  2!hh  (jl'  l)e- 
cemher. 

Wy  March.  1712,  the  f(jrty-five  sur\'i\'ors  'thirty  (jf  their 
riumker  ha\dn,a  ])eri-hcd)  wei'e  confi'onted  1  iv  the  prolTtn  of 
how  to  make  theii'  e.-ca])e  when  the  ice  -hould  ])crmit.  Their 
l)oat  wa-  a  total  wreck',  and  their  only  lio])e  la\'  in  con- 
st i-uctin,L!,'  fi'om  the  delji'i-  a  craft  that  ^\■ould  hr  -ufliciciiilx' 
t  ru.-twort  hy  to  cai'i\\' t  hem  to  civilization.  At  \\  axalh-  -uu- 
!ic-lioti.  they  took  the  old  \-e.->cl  to  ])i<-cc.<.  and  oiic  Sa^\"a 
.-^laradoul)Zo\',  a  nati\'e  of  Sihei'ia.  ^vho  had  worlc(-il  in  the 
:-hi!)yard  at  <  )khot-k,  offcrecl  to  con-ti'uct  the  new  craft. 

I\ai'l\'  in  ]\Ia\'  the  -hi])  wa-  -tai'teil.  It  wa-  f(>!'y\'  fed 
loii'i  and  thirteen  ki'oad.  on(>  ma-ted.  a  ^mali  cal)in  in  the  1)oo]t 
and  a  ualley  in  lhe  fore  ])art  of  the  ve.--e!.  A  .-eco!id  -mall 
!  oat   wa-  al-o  madic. 

•  hi  ihc  lOih  of  Auu'u-t  il  wa-  launched  ;uid  chri-1ene(l  the 
>■/.  I'lhr.  Durimi'a  few  da\--'  e;d!n  that  fi  ill.  )Wc<j.  i  h.'  ;'ud,,  irr, 
.-ail-.  Mid  liail;i-1  were  ailju-ted.  Pro\-i-ion-  and  .-ucli  fur- 
a-  lliey  had  ei, III -I'll -d  wei'e  ]iul  akoal'd.  and  ll;e\"  -ei  -ail  '>\\  il;e 
liilh.  AhhoULih  Slaradoulizo\-  had  nex'er  h>'en  a  cai'iien'er. 
hi-  erafi  pro\-i'i|  -i';iworih\'  and  lc•l■;l-^■d  ;i  'jiA^  in  liic-  -'caO'". 

ddiey  -iuhtid  Iv.illl-eh.-itka.  AULLU-t  27).  e!i1«-l'id  ll.'-  !'a>-  n] 
A\\a1-ka    'hi'    nexl     daw     and    made     r..i!l     ai      I'l-l  I'ej  )a  fez-ki . 

AUU'.-'     27.         h     i-     plra-Cil     1o    Hole    lh;..l     li,r     i;u--i;m     UiC.'e:')!- 


.Lvjor  Ayjj  vox  \vrangi:ll  2o 

i)!('ii1  conferred  the  lowest  rank  of  nol)ilily  upon  Sawa  Slara- 
<loui)Zo\',  that  of  Siiihoiarskoy. 

Th.e  Jvussians  have  been  untirin<i;  in  their  en(leav(var  to  dis- 
eovr  a  i)assa<i'e  eastward  lo  the  north  <jf  ('a])e  Taimner  and 
Cape  ( '!iela,i!;skoi.  in  1700,  Schalaroff  attempted  to  force  the 
])a-sa'i,'e  tfiat  had  ])rove(l  so  disastrotis  to  Jjehi'in^' ;  in  s])iteof 
iinitinx'  and  hardshi]).  he  renewed  his  atte!n])t  three  times, 
1)UT  was  finally  wrecked  al)out  sevent\'  miles  east  of  Cnpc 
( 'hda^skoi,  wliere  he  and  his  crew  perisl.KMl  miserably  from 
starvation,. 

Adniii-al  I'chitscha^'of  (>ndeavoured  to  force  a  ]:)assap;o  round 
Sl)it/;liei'u'en  in  the  year  ITtJl,  but  in  s])ite  of  coin'a,<i'e  and 
l)er<e\'er:ince,  his  ex])edit i(jn  war^  unsuccessful.  Later  ( "aj)- 
tain  P)iliin,i':>  in  1787  made  two  atteni])1s,  Ijoth  (jf  which  W(-re 
unsuccessful. 

AIan>'  years  later,  1S20  to  1823,  Lieutenant  Anjou  and 
Admiral  A  on  A\'ran,t;cll  made  a  series  of  remarkable  sledt;'o 
journeys  stai'tin,u:  i'r<.)m  the  mouth  of  th(>  Kolyma  Liver.  (.)n 
the  fourtli  jourricv.  March,  1S2:),  \'on  A\'!'ari,t!,'ell  reached 
latitude  70"  ol',  lon,2itude  17-")^  27'  ^\'..  one  hundred  and  five 
\-ers1--  in  a  dired  line  from  the  mainhmd  o\-rr  a  fi'ozen  sea. 
Sevei'al  times  the  ])arty  came  neai'  lo>in<i  their  li\'es  by 
breakin.u'  throuuli  the  ice.  After  reacliin,u'  this  hi.^'h  lati- 
tude and  rccounizin.ii'  siuns  of  o})en  watia'  to  the  north,  \'on 
W'ranu'ell  \\'rite<  :  — 

'■  \o1  wit  hstandin,u"  this  sui'c  token  of  th.e  imi)o<sibili1y  of 
])rocec(lin.u-  nnich  J'urther,  ^\•e  continued  to  u'o  due  north  for 
aboin  nine-  \'er--t-,  when  we  an'i\'ed  at  the  edo-(.  of  an  inunense 
bi'eak  in  the  ice,  ext cndiu'i,'  ea-t  and  V(-\  further  than  the 
eye  rouM  reach,  and  which  at  the  narrowest  jiart'  was  moi'(> 
1  h;m  a  iiUiidr-'d  fat  hoiMs  acro-s.  .  .  .  We  clinibcd  one  of  the 
lofiic^i  ice  hilk.  whei'e  we  obtained,  an  exi  "ii-ice  A'iew  tow.ards 
the  n.orih.  an<l  whence  we  beheld  ilie  widi  ,  immea.-nrable 
ocean  -i)read  bef'ore  (nu'  j'aze.      Il   v.'a^  a  feai'ful  and  mauniii- 


2i!  rilK   CHEAT    WHITE  XOBTIL 

cent,  but  K)  us  a  uiclancholy.  spccTaclc.  Frauiuonts  of  ice  of 
(Mionnous  size  fioatctl  on  tlic  surface  of  ihc  ajiitatc<l  ocean, 
anil  AVere  thi'own  \)X  the  waves  with  awful  violence  a.uainst 
the  cdn-c  of  the  ice-lield  (jn  the  further  side  of  the  channel 
behjre  us.  The  colli.-ioirs  were  s(j  trenien<l(ju<.  that  lai'uc 
masses  were  ex'ei'v  instant  hrcjken  away,  and  it  was  exidcnt 
that  the  ])orlion  of  ice  \\-hich  still  diA'idedi  the  channel  from 
the  0])en  ocean  would  soon  l)e  completely  destroyed.  Had 
W('  att(-ni])te(l  to  ha\"e  feri'ied  oin'>ch-cs  aci'oss  u])on  (jiie  of 
the  iloatinu;  piece-  of  ice.  we  >hould  not  ha\'e  found  firm 
f(^(jtin<i;  ujion  oxw  ai'rival.  Kvdi  on  our  >idi\  fre-h  lane<  of 
Walter  A\"ere  continually  formin,a\  and  exiendin.,u'  in  e\'ei'y 
direction  in  the  field  of  ice  behind  u>.  A\dlh  a  ])ainful  f(-e!- 
in<i'  (jf  the  im])o-->!hilit\'  of  overcomin,u'  the  oh.-ta.clc-  which 
Xatui'e  oi)])o-ed  to  U-.  oui'  la-t  ho])e  \'ani-he(l  of  dii-covering 
the  hmd  wliich  we  yet   Ix'lieA'cil  to  e\i-t."" 

Of  the  difhcultie-  that  confr(.)n.ted  them  upon  their  return, 
Adniii-al   \'on   A\'ranu'ell   write-:  — 

"We  had  hardly  ])roccfd(Ml  one  verst  wlien  we  found  oui'- 
sclve<  ill  a  fre-h  labyrinth  of  lane-  of  watci\  whicli  hfiMiiiod 
u-  in  on  e\'cry  .-ido.  .V-  all  the  hoatinu'  i)iccc-  around  u-  were 
.-inallcr  than  the  (.me  on  whicji  a\-c  -tood.  which  wa-  -f\'enty- 
fi\'e  fathom-  aero.--,  and  a-  a\'c  -aw  nian\"  ccrtaiPi  indacalions 
of  an  ai)proacliin2:  -toi'm.  1  thought  it  beiid'  to  rfiiiain  on 
the  larger  naa--,  wliirh  offered  u.-  >oni('\\'hat  more  >ec!nity. 
and  thu-  we  waited  ouiell\'  v.haie\-er  Pro\-id.(-nce  >honld 
d--eree.  l)ark  cloial-  now  I'o-e  from  l!;e  we-t .  andi  i  he  whole 
at  ni(  i-phii'e  liecanie  filled  with  a  damp  \'a]M)!'.  A  -^i'nmi' 
breeze  -i  a  !,di  !  i !  \"  -p!'aim'  up  I'rom  llie  we-t .  and  iiwiva-i'i !  in 
h'--  lean  hah'  an  hnur  1o  a  -lorm.  lA'ery  nionieni  l.i.ii,e 
ma--e^  (if  ice  around  u-  wei'i'  da-he(l  auain-1  each  ebl.i-r,  and 
111''  i'-:e!i  in  In  a  t '!!on-:ind  iVaLmi'-ni  -.  (  )ur  Ih.  t  !•'  pa:i\'  ivnaiiiK-di 
f;i--t  on  (iMf  ie..  idai;d.  whieli  wa -  l(.--ed  1o  and  fl'M  by  l!:e 
wa\'i-.      \\'(     ua/i  d    in    nie-1    painful    inaeti\dty   (;n    ihc    wild 


PI  IIP  PS  27 

conflict  of  the  cloinciits,  ('X])C('tin<i;  every  moment  to  be  swal- 
lowed u]).  We  had  been  three  lon«;'  hours  in  this  ])ositi(jn, 
and  still  ihe  mass  of  ice  beneath  us  held  to<>;ether,  when  sud- 
denly it  was  cau.iiht  by  the  stoi'm,  and  hurletl  a(2;ainst  a  larj^e 
field  of  ice.  The  crash  was  terrific,  and  the  mass  beneath  us 
v.'as  sluittered  into  fra<iments.  At  that  dreadful  moment, 
when  esea]:)e  seemed  im])o^sibl(>,  the  im])ulse  of  scdf-presc'rva- 
ti(.)n  inii)lanTed  in  every  livin.u;  being  saved  us.  Instinctively 
Vs'e  all  s])ranii;  at  once  on  tho  sled<>;es,  and  ur.ged  the  d(jgs  to 
tii(ii'  full  s])ee(l.  They  flew  acnjss  the  yielding;'  fra<i'ments 
to  th(^  held  on  -which  acc  had  been  stranded,  and  safely 
reached  a  part  of  it  of  firmer  character,  on  which  were  sevc^ral 
Immmocks,  and  where  the  cloR's  innnediately  ceased  runninjj;, 
conscious,  a])])arently,  that  the  dan<i,er  was  past.  A\'e  wei'e 
saved  :  we  joyfully  embraced  each  other,  and  united  in 
thanks  t(j  (i(jd  for  om'  ])reservation  from  such  imnun(Mit  ])eril." 

The  ])rimary  objf>ct  of  the  rhi])])s  ex])e(lition  sent  out  by 
the  Pioyal  Societ}'  of  I'Jisland,  under  the  solicitation  of  the 
govei'innent  and  ail  scientific  men  of  the  time,  was  to  reach 
the  Mai^iV'tic  Pole  and  solve,  if  possible,  the  causes  of  the 
^•aria"ti()n  oi'  tlie  com])ass  and  other  M'ientific  problems. 
A\'ilh  two  \-e<sels,  the  lificdiorsc  and  the  ('(ircosr,  ('ai)tain 
rhii)])s  -I't  out  in  177;-)  and  skirted  the  (astern  shore  of  Spitz- 
l.}er_u;^-n  to  .S()°  IS'  nortli  latitude.  Here  he  was  be>et  \\'ith  ice 
and  could  ])roeeed  uo  farther.  Accom])anyin<};  this  ex])e(Ii- 
tion  was  younu;  Xelson,  lat(-r  the  hero  of  Trafal<i;ar.  An  anec- 
doii"  of  Xei>:in  shoA\'ing  his  coiu'age  and  daring  on  this 
trip  i<  Told  a-  follows  :  — ■ 

''While  out  in  small  lioats  one  of  the  officers  had  v\'ounde(| 
a  walru-.  .  ,  .  I'he  w<»un(led  animal  (li\-e(l  innnediatel\'. 
and  lirouglii  uj)  a  number  of  iis  compaifions  :  an.d  they 
join(>d  m  an  attark  on  the  boat.  T}ie\'  wre-tcd  an  oar  from 
on*'  ol'  till'  men.  an<l  it  wa-  with  tlie  ulnio-t  difiicullx'  that 
thr  crew  could    i)ri'\-ent  them    from  >la\ing  or  u])setling  her, 


Tin:  (.in:. IT  white  .yoirrii 


Till  Xclsoii  caiiic  u])  :  and  ihc  \\';ilrus(>s,  find'nn;-  IIkmi"  cncinics 
llni>  n'('!il'()i'ct(|.  (li.-pcrscd.  \  ouiil:;  XcL^oii  exposed  liiiii- 
sell'  ill  ;i  ino.-i    dai'iiiii'  iiuinner." 

The  uiituil  uiiale  silualioii  of  his  vessel^  f()ree(l  Phii)ps  lo 
I'di'ai'e  his  cour.-e  ai'.d  reluni  to  lMi,<ilaii(h 

Tiidei'  iii>t  nic1  ions  lo  al1enip1  the  i)assa_u,-e  of  Ice  Sea,  from 
!^)(  lirin,!!,'  Sli'ail  lo  P>afrm  Ba\',  llie  ill-faled  Cool;  sailed  in 
177<i,  huT  failetl  to  sail  Iceyond  Ie\'  ( 'a"pe,  whei'e  he  found 
iinp(Mieti'al)le  ice  :  h.owexcr,  he  reached  as  far  as  Xoi'tli  ('ape 
on  1  h(>  coast   of  Asia. 

Ma(d<eiizie,  liie  la>1  of  1  he  eii;!i1  een1  h-cen1  ui'y  (^x])loi'ei's.  lel't 
l-'oi'l  ( 'hipew  van.  aend  de-cended  1  he  Mackenzie  lvi\'er.  a  nnich 
I;! rue r  si  rea ill  than  1  he  ( 'oppei'inine  p!'e\'iou>ly  di<co\ered  hy 
liearne.  lie  h)i!oweil  the  cour>e  of  tiie  ri\er  ui,lil  he  readied 
an  i-land.  ■"where  the  Tide  rose  and  fell."  hut  there  is  no  cer- 
tainty that  lie  reached  the  ocean.  dd;e  land  exi)e(lit  ions 
w't'Vi'  for  u'eojiraphical  di-co\'ery  and  not  for  the  di-co\-ery 
of  the  Xorthw'e.-t  I'as^aii'e,  that  had  occupied  mariners  h)r 
so  maiiN'  \'ears. 


■J^^*-—^ 


«-e— ^ 


"*°^< 


CHAPTER   III 

I^arly  niiiot(HnitIi  ('('ntiirv:     I'oss  ami  I'ariy,  May  3,  l^is;.  — Objcft 

of  \-()yati'('.  search  toi'  Xorlh\vi'-t  I'a— ati'"  1  iiroiitih  J)a\'i>  Si  rail 
ainl  !Xp!i)!'('  lj;i\'s  ami  chaiiiicls  (Icsci-Hm'.I  by  jjafliii.  -—Met  iiali\'(S 
near  .McKillc  15ay.  —  The  (lisco\-ci'y  ijy  lio—  of  the  famous  ('riiii- 
son  Cliff-.  ~-]-!uti'i-s  ].aiica,-tfr  Soiiml.  -Ailwaucc  hai'rcd  hy  iiii- 
a,a;iiiary  ('rockcs'  .M()un1aiii>.  -  -  l{i'i  ui-ii  (jf  cxjjcilition  to  Juiuiami. 
-  -  ]^)Ucha!)  ami  ]'"raiikli!i  Xorth  Pi;lai'  cxp-Mlit  ion  rin  (.Irccnlaiid  ami 
Spit 7.1  x'rgcn. -— /)n/v,///rv/  atnl  Tnni  in  Mau'iialcna.  Jjay,  Jutic  ;-!, 
JSIS.  -  Hcaclicfl  hi,ii'h  latitude  of  SCC  :\~'  X. — ( 'oui'se  direeted 
to  ea<t  coast  of  ( Ireenland.  -  -  -  !  )i~a<1  rous  ha  I  tie  with  the  ice. — ■ 
Domllicd  disatjled. — JIastv  return  to  IJm'land. 


As  a  result  of  tlic  iiuiiiv  disastrous  voyages  1o  the  Arctic, 
there  was  a  lon.u'  ])erio(l  of  iuacli\'il\'  in  ])olai"  i'e>eai'cli,  \\iileh 
(•()ip  inucd  for  the  first  sixteen  year-  of  t  he  uiiieTeeut  h  century. 
lntei'<st  was  revived.  liowe\-e]'.  hy  the  a-toundinu'  iv'port 
that  ice  \\'hicli  had  cut  oil  the  Dani-h  colonic-  from  ceuiununi- 
eation  with  their  native  country  fiu'  centiiries.  luul  suddenly 
lieeoine  free,  and  tliat  certain  (  ii'eenianal  whah-i's  liad  sailed 
1o   the   >e\-entietli   aiid   ei^tihtieth    i)ai'allei. 

ddie  l-)rilis!i  Admiralty  in,  c()njuncii()U  with  the  Council  of 
the  Royal  Society  decideil  to  fit  out  1  Wo  ex])e( lit  ions :  (  )ne 
imdc!'  ( 'aptain  .John  hJo-s  and  Lieutenant  Ivlward  Pari-y, 
A\'ho-e  ohject  Was  to  force  a  n<ii'thwe-i  pa--auv  thrdim'h  Da'-.'is 
Si  !'a.il  and  to  ex])li)re  the  lia\'-  and  chaniU'U  ije-ei-ihed  1  )y 
Pailin  at  \\v  head  of  lic'  imm(ai-e  hay  that  hear-  hi-  name, 
ddie  -ecoud  ('XjM'ilii  ion  und,er  P)Ucha!i  and  Pratdvlin  wa-  to 
du'i'C  ii-  cour-e  li\'  wa\'  of  C.reenhiiid  and,  Soil /hei'o(  ti 
in.  -"aivh  of  the  l^)le,  and  make  it.,  wa.v  ihreHiuh  JJehrinir 
S1  rail    Mut    to  the  J'acitic. 

•2'.) 


:;(l 


THE   'rl;i:AT    WlflTK    \()l!JJf 


The  four  sliiji^  wci'c  the  l)c>t  cfiuipijcil  foi'  Arclic  rcscai'C'h 
thai  had  cN'ci'  hccu  -cut  out  from  I'>n,ii,'huiih  and  the  coiuniaud- 
ers  were  iii>1ru(icd  1o  (•oH( d  ah  ])o--h)h"  infonualion  that 
would  ])roinol<'  .-ciculhic  IvHowIimI^c  in  iialui'al  hi-toi'v,  ,sj.(('!- 
ou'v,  inci  corolou'V.  aud  astronomy  a.-  lo  llic  s])ccial  |)hcnomciia 
(.■.\i-lin<i'  ill  hiiih  uorlhcrn  hititudc<. 

( )u  the  ;)d  of  May.  L'^1S.  the  t\vo  cxjitMhtion-  ])arl{'d 
com])an\'  hi  l>ra>>a  Sound,  Shclhuid,  and  >ahcd  for  thcii' 
rc-])('cti\'c  d('>lhialion.s.  Tiic  L^dh'lld  and  Ah .raiuli  r.  under 
the  command  of  I{o-s  and  Pai'r\',  rcachctl  Vv'yua!  Souml  on 
t!ic  17th  of  June,  wlicrc  lhcy  wciv  d.ctaincd  hy  i!ic  ice  in 
com])an\'  with  fort\'-iive  whalers,  umil  the  "iOlh.  'idiey  made 
oh-cr\-allon~-  from  the  sIujI'c  (jf  \V\'ii'at  I>iand.  whicii  they 
found  to  he  nu-placed  (jn  the  map-  1  )y  no  le-<  than  h\'e  de- 
tirei'-. 

]*>y  ^\■arpinl::  and  towiim'  they  madj'  -low  i)ro,u'i'(---,  nat'i'owly 
mi--i!m'  de-truction  iiy  the  i)re--ui'e  oi  huire  icr-fjor^.  hut 
fina!!\'  makinu'  l!ic  open  water,  iliu'h  mountain-  were  du'- 
scri'-d  on  th''  north  -idi'  of  tl!i-  hay  called  hy  IJo--.  Ah'h 
\-illc  l)ay.  till'  ])i-i'cipi<'e-  \'aryin,L;;  in  height  from  ono  thi_u;s;]nd 
tot  wo  t  hoir-aiid  feet . 

An  Iv-kimo.  Jolm  Sadieu-e,  ^^-ho  acted  ;c-  interi)reiei'  io 
the  expedition,  wi-nt  a-hore  and  hi'ouiiht  l^ack  wiili  him  a 
do/.en  or  moi'e  nati\'e-.  who  were  iiiu^'h  enUa'taine<l  I  ly  i  ht^ 
ho--piiahty  proxided  foi'  ihem  h\-  the  .-hip'-  com])ai!>'.  After 
partakiuLi'  of  t^a  ;inil  hi-cuit-.  a  dancr  wa-  held  on  ilie  (leek, 
and  nf  ihi-  ('aptain    lio-^  ui\;-s  au  amu-inu'  d:--cr;pt!on  :    — 

■' Sache'.i-f'.-  niii'lh  and  joy  exccrileii  aii  hound-  :  and  with 
a  uoi  )d-hinnori'd  ohiciou-ne--.  in-tiijcd  hy  ilie  impiirtaiit 
dr-'inction  v.'!;ich  hi-  -uoi-rior  l^nowlfdov  now  ^[Wr  kin',  hf 
]i''i'i(  cnu'd  \\if  (liiicf  di'  m;i-'<-r  i)f  c'-'^inon;''-.  An  l.-kinao 
\h(  ',  Ml  :!  k;iii  ,^n  1!!"  di  i-k  iif  on''  (^i'  !!.  M.  >liip-  in  i!  '•  iry 
-m;.-  iif  '  I  i'''"n!:i"i  h  \c;!-  an  olh-i-  -i  )•!!(  \',-!i:ii  new.  hu'  \;i-h 
h.m-' if  '■"uld  n'lt    iia\'.'  i  lU'if  u'lned  i:i-  funciion-  in  a  maimer 


noss  AX  J)  I'AirRV  ^1 

more  u])])ro])riat('.  It  did  not  bcloii,^;  even  to  Xash  to  com- 
bine in  iiis  own  ])ei>on,  lilce  .luck,  the  discordant  C|ualifications 
(jf  seaman,  intci'preter,  (b'aut^'htsman,  and  master  of  cere- 
monies to  a  b:Ul,  with  th(jse  of  an  active  fishei'  of  seals  and  a 
hnnter  (jf  white  bears.  A  daughter  of  tlie  Danish  resident, 
{!)>'  an  i']sl<imo  woman,)  about  eighteen  N'cars  of  age,  and 
by  far  the  be-t  looking  of  the  half-caste  gr(jup,  was  the  ob- 
ject of  .lack's  ])ai'iiculai'  attentions  :  which  being  observed 
b\'  one  of  our  ofhci'rs,  he  gave  him  a  lady's  shawl,  ornamented 
vnth  si)aii.u;les,  a-  an  offei'ing  for  lu>r  acceptance.  lie  pre- 
sented it  in  a  most  rc-j^ectful  and  not  ungi'aceful  maimer  to 
tlie  dam-el,  vrho  bashfull\'  to(.)k  a  ])''\vter  I'ing  from  her  finger 
and  ga\-e  it  to  him  in  return,  rewai'ding  him,  at  the  stune  time, 
with  at)  elofiuent  smile,  whicli  could  leave  no  doubt  on  our 
Eskimo's  mind  that  he  had  made  an  impression  on  her 
heart." 

Xear  f 'ajie  Dudley  Digues  a  curious  c(jndition  of  the  ice 
was  noteil  b\'  (';ii)t;un  Pioss  :is  follows:  — 

"\\'e  have  discovered  that  the  sn(jw  on  the  face  of  the 
cliffs  ])re>ents  an  appeai'ance  both  novel  and  interesting, 
b)(-iug  a])j)arently  -lained  or  covereil  ]  iv  >om(  substan(;e  which 
gave  it  a  dee])  crimson  color.  Idii-  -n.-jw  was  penetrateil  iu 
]nan\'  ])laces  to  a  depth  of  ten  oi'  twelve  feet  by  the  c(jloring 
matter." 

b'a--ing  Smith  and  Jones  Soimd.  I{o--s  reuclu'd  the  f'U- 
trance  df  Laiica-ter  Soiuid  by  the  la-t  of  Augu>t.  ■'()n.  the 
:]l>t,"  he  \\'riie-,  "we  di.~''(/\-ei'e(l,  lor  the  first  time,  that  the 
land  exteiiderl  fj-om  the  -outh  two-thirds  acro-s  this  a])])a!'ent 
St!':iit.  (ib-cui'ed  it-  real  figure.  Dui'ingthe  d;iy  nmch  intere.-t 
was  excit(-d  on  board  by  the  a])])eai-ance  of  tlie  Strait.  The 
general  ojjinion.  liovrevei'.  w;i-  that  it  w;t-;  (jnly  an  inlet.  The 
land  \\';i-  i);irti:dly  -■■en  extendinu;  acro-^  :  tlie  yellow  -ky 
Wa-  l)efce])tible.  At  a  little  before  four  o'clock  A.M..  the  l:snd 
was  s(-en  at  tine  bottom  of  the  inlet  b\-  the  ofhcers  of  t  he  watch, 


Tin:  (;i:i:Ar   wnrri-:  xoinii 


l)iit  Ix'l'orc  I  ix^A  oil  <lccl<.  a  sjiacc  o\  al)()Ul  <('\-('ii  dc.unM's  of  lli{> 
(•oiii])ass  was  ol)si'Ui'('(M)y  1  he  lo^u,'.  Tlu'laiid  wiiii'h  I  ihcusaw 
A\as  a  hi,L!,h  I'id^c  of  inounlaiiis  cxlciid'm.i;,'  (lifcdly  across  llu> 
bolloni  of  the  iuld.  ^Idiis  chain  aj)})('ai'('(l  cx1 1'cnuay  liifi'h  in 
the  ccnl  I'c.  Ahlioii!i,h  a  |)assa.u;(>  in  ihis  (lir(>ctioii  appcai'cd 
lu'pclcss,  1  dclcrmincd  1o  explore  it  conii)let(dy.  1  lliei'efoi'e 
c<.)iiliinu'd  all  r-ail.  Air.  Be\"ei'ly,  the  sin;i;,'eon,  who  was  the 
most  san^uiuine,  went  n])  to  tlie  crow's  nest,  and  at  twel\-o 
reported  to  me  that  !)ef(jre  it  became  thick  he  had  se(ai  the; 
land  aci'oss  the  bay,  exce])t  for  a  ^'ery  short  spacc\  At  three,  I 
went  on  dcrk  ;  it  c()m])letely  cleared  for  ten  minntes,  when 
I  distinctly  saw  land  around  the  !)ottom  of  the  ba\',  forminiz; 
a  ch,ain  of  mountains  comiected  with  those  which  extended 
alouii  the  north  and  south  side.  This  land  a])])eai'e(l  to  bo 
at  the  distance  of  ei,^ht  leaa:ues,  and  AFr.  Lewis,  the  mastia', 
and  James  IIai,u\  leadin.u  man,  beiii^-  s<'nt  for,  they  took  its 
Ix'ariniis,  which  wrvc  in^erted  in  the  lou;.  At  this  moment 
I  also  saw  a  contiimitx'  of  ice  at  the  distance  of  se\-en  miles, 
(>xtendin,u;  fi'om  one  side  of  ih.e  bay  to  the  other,  between  th(> 
neare>t  cape  to  the  north,  which  T  namedi  aftei'  Sir  ( leor.^e 
A\'ai'renden,  and  1  hat  to  t  !i"  >outh.  which  wa<  named  aftei'  \'is- 
count  ( 'astlerea^h.  Tlu"  mountains,  which  oc(aipied  the 
centre,  in  a_  north  and  south  direction,  wei'e  named  ('rocker's 
]\b)initain<.   after  tlie  Seci'etary  to  the   Admii'alty." 

ddie  much-di-puted  ""('I'Dcker  Mountain-"  brouiiht  the 
na\'iL;'at or  i'iiliciijc  an.d  di^ci'edit  upon  his  return  to  bn,i!:land. 
The  I'einrii  \\';iv  di'cided  upon  on  (  tctober  L  that  date  brim:; 
the  liiinl  to  whieli  !ii-  in-^t  I'nd  ions  ])e!'mitted  ('aptain  boss 
to  r( niani   m   m)r\  hei'n  ];ii  ii  udes. 

Alilmu^ili  l!ie  e\t  riordinai'y  blumlci'  co<t  Capt.ain  lioss 
ivput  :ii  i!  Ill  :i!iil  till'  eoniidence  of  hi-  friend-,  he  had  ne\'ei'- 
theli-.-^  rendei'i-J,  \-;ilii;d)le  addition  to  Ai'ebic  knowledge:  his 
scieiMiiie  ni  i-ir\";!i  io!i-  had  been  uni'emil  1 1nu'  ;ind  ;iccurate. 
He  ii;,d  in;ipOed  bie  we-1   eM:i-I   of  ]):i\i-  Str.ait,  had  advanced 


('APiArv  .Idiix  Pi(is>.    Pi.X, 


nOSS  AND   PARRY  3o 

through  Baffin  Bay,  thereby  proving  the  chiims  of  that  fa- 
jiiouri  old  mariner,  and  liad  been  the  first  to  meet  the  Eskimos 
of  th(>  far  north,  who  were  to  render  such  valuable  assist- 
ance to  future^  ex])lor(n's. 

Th{>  ])rogress  of  the  Dorothea  and  the  Trent  under  the  re- 
s])(H'tive  commands  of  Captain  David  Buchan  and  Lieu- 
tenant-Conunander  John  Franklin  (later  Sir  John  Franklin) 
v.'as  delayed  by  fog  and  storm  until  tlu>y  sighted  Clierie  Island, 
kititude  74°  33'  X.,  and  longitude  17°  40'  E.,  famous  for  its 
herds  of  walruses  frcjui  which  the  AIuscov}^  C'om])any  had 
dei'iv(Hl  nnich  ])rofit  by  s(mding  ships  to  the  island  for  oil,  the 
cvcw  captuiving  as  many  as  a  thousand  animals  in  the  course 
of  six  or  seven  hours. 

The  ships  now  encountcnxvl  small  floes  and  huge  masses  of 
ice,  which  augUMMited  the  difficulties  of  ])rogress,  and  this 
Lieutenant  Beechey,  the  clever  artist  and  interesting  nar- 
rator of  th(>  voyage,  describes  as  follows  :  — 

"  There  was,  l)esides,  on  the  occasion  an  additional  motive 
for  r(Mnaining  u]i  ;  very  few  of  us  had  ever  seen  the  sun  at 
midnight,  and  this  night  happcniing  to  be  particularly  dis- 
torted by  I'efraction,  and  swe(^])ing  majc^stically  along  the 
northern  horizon,  it  was  the  ol)ject  of  im])osing  grand(>ur, 
wliicli  ri\'et(Hl  to  tlu^  deck  some  of  our  crew,  who  would  per- 
ha])s  have  l)ehel(l  with  indifference  the  less  imposing  effect  of 
tlie  icebergs  ;  or  it  might  hav(^  bcnni  a  coml)ination  of  both 
thes(^  ])henomena  ;  for  it  cannot  b(>  (kuiied  that  tlu^  novelty  oc- 
casioiunl  by  the  fioating  masses  was  materially  heightened  by 
the  singular  effcH't  |)roduc(Ml  byth(M'(M'>'  low  altitude  at  which 
the  sun  cast  his  h(>rv  bivuns  ov(M'  t\w  icy  surface  of  tlu^  sc^a. 

"  ddie  rays  wer("  too  oblitiuf^  to  illuminat(^  more  than  the 
iiie(|uahties  of  the  floes,  and  falling  thus  ])a.rtially  on  the 
gi'otesciue  sluqx's,  (utlier  really  assuincnl  l)y  the  ice  or  dis- 
toiied  by  the  unc^iual  refi'action  of  the  atniosjjhei'c.  so  l)e- 
tra\'ed  tlie  imagination  that  it   recjuired  no  gi'eat   exertion  of 


:U 


TlIK   CHEAT    WliriK   XOIiTU 


fancy  to  trace  in  \'ari()us  dirccticjns  aiT'liitcetural  ('dificfs, 
,uri)tt().-.  and  caws  here  and  there  ohttering  as  it'  with  ])rc- 
ci(jus  metals.  So  ticnerally,  indeed,  was  tlie  dec('])t!on  ad- 
mitted, ihat.  in  (Hrectin,^  the  I'fjute  of  the  vessel  from  al(jft, 
we  for  a  wliile  de\'iated  ft'om  (jur  nautical  ])hras('olo<iy.  and 
.-ha])ed  our  cou!'.-e  for  a  church,  a  tower,  a  hridtic  o!'  sonie 
.-imiiar  structure,  in.-tead  of  for  hinu])-  of  ice,  which  were 
u.-uall\'  de>i,u,nated   hy  le,--  <'leo-;int   a])j)('llatioi!-. 

"Afier  >iu'htin,L;;  the  M)Uthei'ii  ])romonlor\'  of  S|dl zlx'r.u'en. 
the  two  -^hip-  wei'e  ])arte(l  in  a  se\-e]-e  ,u.-ale.  The  >now  fell 
in  hea\'y  -liowers.  and  -e\'e!'al  ton-"  ^v<■i:^■ht  of  ice  acciunu- 
lated  ahout  l!;(-  side,-  (jf  the  l)riu;  ihe  Tr(  n!  and  formed,  n. 
(•()mj)l('te  ca.-inii:  to  the  |)lank<,  which  -ecured  ;ui  additional 
layer  at  each  phmii-e  ol  the  \-es-el.  So  u'l'f'ut.  indee(|.  \\-;t>  the 
accunniiation  ahout  the  how.-,  that  we  were  ohli'j.-eil  to  cut 
it  away  re])eatedily  with  a.xe-  to  relie\-e  tlie  hoW'-prii  fi'om 
tlie  enor.mou-  wei^'lit  that  was  attached  to  it,  and  the  rojx.'S 
wei'c  so  thicl<!\'  c()V<'re(l  with  ice.  that  it  wa-  n(-c('.--ar\'  to  heat 
them  \vith  laru'e  stick-  to  hf'C])  them  in  a  -late  of  readine>s 
for  any  (-x'olution  tliat  nuLiht  t)e  rendered  nece^^ary,  eit lier 
()\'  the  a])])earance  of  ici-,  to  leeward  or  hy  a  cj:am:c  of  wind,''" 

l)y  the  .'!d  of  .lime  the  -liio-  \\'ere  reunited  in  Maiidialena 
l)a\',  SurroundiiiLi'  thi-  liarliour  of  !'(-fuuv  are  liiiih  moun- 
tain- ri-inii,'  ])recipii  oiisly  aiiout  thi'ee  t!iou-and  feet  hiii'h, 
the  (jfej)  \-ailey-  iilieil  with  inuneu.-e  hed-  of  -now.  'J'he 
te!i!])erat  uri'  i-  part  iculai'ly  mild  on  l!ie  we-tei'ii  co;i-i  of 
.•^pit /heruen,  auij  in  con-epuence  there  i-  a  hixury  nf  Aloine 
])lani-,  Lira--e-.  ;uid  licJKii-.  al-o  of  animaa  life,  re:;id<'ei'. 
aiid  ildck-  of  hird,-,  >uch  a-  the  auk,  wilinck.  Lmii-.  cormorant.-, 
al-i  I  walru-'--  .and  -I'.al-. 

Tlicr''  a  I'e  nuMiii-'iii-  uiaciij'-  fro!n  which  !im:e  pieces  wmiiM 
occ;;-:(  .lack/  kr'  ak  a\\"a\  .  M '■.  H.-'-'wy  ,\,--^rrv  ><'~^  in  a  iiii-t 
iiiie:-.'--;  inu  wa\'  'he  fall  of  one  uf  ih(-i-  e.\t  raoi'tluiary  nut--es 
i.f  ice:—- 


nCClIAX  AXI)    F  RAX  KLIN  oO 

''Th(^  first  vras  occasioned  ])y  the  discharge  of  a  musket  at 
alioul  hah'  a  mile's  (hstance  from  the  u;lacier.  Imme(hately 
after  tlie  report  of  tfie  iiun.  a  noise  resembling  thunder  was 
heard  in  the  direction  of  the  iceherg  (glacier)  and  in  a  few 
seconds  mor(^  an  immense  ])iece  broke  away,  and  fell  head- 
long into  llie  s(>a.  Tlie  crew  of  the  launch,  su])ix_)sing  them- 
selvt's  beyond  the  reach  <.)f  its  influence,  (|uietly  look(>d  upon 
thi^  scene,  wlien  ])i'esently  a  sea  arose  and  rolled  toward  the 
shore  with  sucii  rajjidity,  that  the  crew  had  not  time  to  take 
any  ])recauti(>ns.  and  tlu^  boat  was  in  consecpience  washed 
upon  t!ie  l.ieach,  and  c()m])l(>tely  fillcMl  by  the  succecMling  wave. 
As  soon  as  tlieir  astonishment  had  subsided,  they  examin(><l 
the  boat,  and  found  h(>r  so  badly  stove  that  it  became  neces- 
sary to  re])air  her  in  order  to  return  to  the  ship.  They  had 
als(.)  the  curiosity  to  measu.re  the  distance  th(>  boat  had  been 
cari'ied  by  tiie  \vave,  and  f(.>und  it  to  be  ninety-six  feet.'' 

Describing  a  second  avalanche  he  writes:  — 

"This  occuri'cfl  on  a  remarkably  fine  day,  when  the  quiet- 
ne>s  of  the  bay  was  first  interru])t(Ml  by  the  noise  of  the  fall- 
imi;  body.  Lieutenant  Franklin  and  myself  had  a])])roached 
one  of  these  stu])eiidous  walls  (>f  ic(\,  and  wei'e  end(>avoring 
to  >earc]i  into  the  innermost  recess  of  a  dee])  cavern  that  was 
neai'  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  when  we  luvird  a  re])ort  as  if  of 
a  canniMi.  and.  tui'ning  to  the  Cjuarlei'  \vhen.ce  it  ])roc(-eded, 
we  j)ei'cei\'ed  a.H  immen>(>  i)i(>ce  of  the  front  of  the  bei'g  slid- 
ing down  from  the  heigfit  of  tw(j  h.undred  f(>et  at  least  into 
tlie  sea.  anid  (!is])ersing  the  water  in  ever\'  direction,  acconi- 
])anied  l)y  a  loud,  grinding  noise,  and  followc^l  l)y  a.  quantity 
o!'  water  wliicli  being  ])l•e^•iously  lodged  in  the  fissure-,  now 
made  its  e^cajx'  in  n.umberless  small  catai'acts  over  the  from 
of  1  he  u'lacier." 

So  gri'al  wa<  tlie  disturbance  of  the  \\-atei'-  liy  tliis  great 
falini^-  ina,s<  tliat  tlie  l)iiri>l!i(ii  was  seen  to  be  careeniiur  at. 
a  distance  of  four  iuile>.     After  it  ln'came  somewhat  settled. 


80 


Til  /•;  ( ;  /.' KA  T  wiiiT /•;  xo n  tu 


tlu'V  ai)])r():i('li('(l  it  and  found  it  to  Ix'  ncai'ly  a  (ivuirtcr  of  a 
mile  in  cir(aiinf('r('nc(>.  "Knowing  its  specific  gravity  and 
making  fair  allowance  for  its  inc(|Ualitic<,  its  weight  was  c(jni- 
putiMl  at  421. ()()()  tons." 

d"h(>  slii])s  left  -Magdalena  I^)ay.  June  7.  and  made  theii'slow 
way  thi'ougli  lu'a-h  ice  which  hc^anie  tliicker  and  more  im- 
])enetral)lc  until  a  fortunate  bi'ceze  dis])ei-se(l  it.  Sailing  in  a 
we>lei'ly  dii'ection.  they  encountered  se\'eral  whale->hi])s.  which 
re])orted  others  l)e>et  hy  the  ice  in  that  dii'ection.  ('ajjtain 
l-Juchan  change(l  lus  course  and  stood  to  the  noilhward,  ])ass- 
ing  ( 'loven  ( 'lilV.  an  isolated  rock,  marking  the  n(.)i'thwe.-tern 
l)oundar\'  of  S])ii  zbergen.  Xear  Picd  Pkiv  they  were  sto])peil 
hy  th(>  ice,  and  the  chamiel  hy  which  the  \'e<sels  had  entei'cil 
became  entirely  clo>ed.  ddie  slii]i-^  ^\•el■e  h<'re  henuneil  in,  in 
almost  the  same  ])osilion  wliere  hjafhn.  Hud>on.  Poole,  ( 'aj)- 
tain  Phi})})-,  an.d  all  the  eai'ly  voyage]',-  to  ihi-  (piarler 
had  heeu  -to|)})eil.  (  )f  their  i)erilous  situation,  Lieulenaiit 
]^eecji(>y   writes  :  — 

"Idie  ice  -oon  began  to  })re>s  lieavily  u})on  us.  and.  to  add 
to  oui'  diiReultie,-.  wv  found  the  water  so  -hallow  thai  the 
rock-  Were  })lainly  di-co\-ered  under  the  holtoms  of  the  -hi])s. 
It  wa-  im})os-ii)le.  however,  hy  any  exei'tion  on  our  })ari.  to 
im|)i'o\-e  the  situation  of  tlie  ve<-els.  Idiey  wei'e  a-  firml\' 
fixed  in  till'  ice  a-  if  liiey  had  foi'nied  pari  of  the  |);ick.  and 
Wf  could  only  hope  that  the  curr('!il  would  not  ilrifl  them  into 
.-till  -hallower  waiei',  ;ind  damage  ihem  a<i'ain-l   the  u'ronnd." 

Il  w;;-  now  fiiund  nece--;u'y  to  attach  the  -hi})-  to  (Idc-  1  ly 
ice-;nichol'-.   which    \\';i-    dniiewilli    cou-iderahle    exertion. 

T.'d^iim-  ad'\';tlil  ;iLl'e  of  ;i    hi-c.^k   in   t  he  ice,  l  hey   iv;ichc(l   \  i  i^c] 

.'^;in.L!,'  ;itM)ii;  .liinc  "Js.  whct'c  the  crrw  Were  f'lrtunalc  enough 
1m   -cciirc   fiii'iy   reindeer  ;ind   plcniy   of  ejilcr-duck-. 

'Ml  ih<'  tiiti  111'  .hil\-.  ( ';ipi:ii:i  ]>iic!i;tn.  tiihlinL';  i!ic  ii-e  con- 
dition- f;i\-i  iuf;il  ih'.  (jet  iTiiiinci  1  ill  niMkc  ;i-  f:ir  an  ;idwincc  in 
liic  norlii  a-  [)M--iIilc.      \\\    nm-l    arduou-  l;iiiour.-  in   warping 


BCCIIAX  AXIJ    FIIAXKLIX 


;ui(l  1r;i.ckin<i,  clc,  he  ;i1t;iinc(l  ;i  latitude  of  <S()°  ol'  X.,  but, 
thouiih  attached  to  floes,  he  found  himself  hein^'  carried  to 
the  southward  li\'  the  current.  On  the  loth  and  Kith  of  Jul}', 
hoth  ships  suffered  considerable  ice  ])ressure.  The  nine  days 
followin.u',  the  cr(-\v  \V()rked  ni,u,'ht  and  day  to  free  the  shi])S 
and  jiet  into  o])en  water. 

Ilavinti'  ,<ii\'en  the  ice  a  fair  trial  and  ])roved  it  unna\'i^-al)le, 
J^uchan  tui'ueil  his  attention  toward  the  ea>tern  coast  of 
(ireeiiland,  intendin.u',  if  it  ])roved  ini])eneti'al)le  there,  to 
round  the  south  ca]:»e  of  S])itzher<i;en  and  atteni]n  to  make  an 
advan.ce  between  that  island  and  Nova  Zembla.  A  terrific 
ji'ale  struck  them  the  3()th  of  July,  wliicli  brouji;ht  down  tlu; 
ic(^  U])on  theni  and  thi'eatened  thei]'  immediate  destructiijn. 
Of  this  encounter  Lieutenant  Beechc}'  gives  a  mo>t  \'ivid 
desci'iption :  — 

"In  oi'der  to  avert  the  effects  of  this  as  much  as  ])ossibl(\ 
a  cable  was  cut  up  into  thir1\'  feet  lengths,  and  these,  with 
j)lales  of  iron  four  feet  sfpun'e,  which  had  been  su])]jlied  to 
us  as  fend(>!'s.  together  with  some  walrus  hides,  were  hung 
round  the  \'es>els,  es])ecially  about  the  bows.  ddie  masts, 
at  the  same  time,  were  secur(-d  with  a<lditional  rojx's,  and 
the  hatches  were  battened  and  nailed  down,  l^y  the  time 
these  ])recaiitions  had  been  taken,  our  a])pi'()ach  to  the 
breakei's  only  left  u-<  tb.e  alternati\-e  of  either'  ])ei-mitting  the 
shi])s  to  be  drifted  bi'oadside  against  the  ice.  and  >o  to  take 
their  chance,  or  of  endea\'o!'iiu2:  to  force  fairly  into  it  by 
])Ulling  bef()i'e  the  wind.  At  length,  the  ho])eless  -tate  of  a 
\-es>el  i)laced  i)roadside  again-^t  so  foi'midable  a  body  became 
a])pai'ent  to  all,  and  we  I'esoh'ed  to  attem])t  the  lattei'  ex- 
])e<lii'nt  ." 

Jjcecliey,    in   docrlbing  the  aj^iialling    scen(\    contimies:  — 

"  Xo  langUMLic.  I  am  coi!\-iuced,  can  con\'ey  an  ade(|ua1e 
ide:i  d!'  ihc  Icrrific  t^Tamleu!'  of  ihe  effecl  now  l)i'oduce(l  by 
the  c()lli-i()n  of  the  ice  and  the  1  emjje-l  uou--  ocean.      The  -cm. 


■  >>i 


THE   CHEAT    WHITE   yOltTU 


\-iol('nTl>'  a.uilat('<l  aiul  rolling  it-  niounlaiiKjus  waM's  a<raiii.-t 
ail  ()i)])(),-iii,ii'  i)()ily.  i<  at  all  liiiic-  a  >ul)liin('  and  awful  >i;z'lit  : 
hill  when,  in  afldilion.  it  (■ii(M)untcr>  ininicn.-c  masses,  which 
it  ha<  si'i  ill  motion  with  a  \'i()lcncc  cijual  to  its  (;wn,  its 
cticet  i>  ])r()<hu'iou--l\'  inei'ca-c<h  At  one  iiKiniciit  it  !Mif>ir^ 
upon  thc-c  ic\'  iVa.u-mtiits  and  hui'ics  tlicni  many  I'cct  be- 
neath its  wave,  and  the  next,  as  tlie  l)Uoyancy  of  the  de- 
].M'c-,-ed  hody  >tru,<j.ij.!es  f(jr  i'(  a-cen(hinc\'.  the  \\'aler  ru-lie-  in 
toamin,u'  cataract-  o\'ei'  the  ('d^'e-,  wliile  e\'ery  in(n\ddual  ma,->, 
rockinu'  and  laborinu,'  in  its  hed,  ,aTind.<  a.;:'ain,-t  and  contends 
witii  it-  oppijnent.  until  one  is  (-ither  -])lit  with  the  -hock  or 
ui)!iea\'ed  uj)on  the  -urface  of  the  other.  Xor  i-  iiii<  colii-iou 
confined  to  any  ])arlicular  >])ot  ;  it  i>  li'oinu'  on  as  far  as  the 
.-i,u'ht  can  I'cach  :  and  when  from  tin-  con\'ul-i\'e  -c(-ne  lidow, 
the  (-ye  i^  lurned  1o  the  exi  raoi'dinary  aj)i)earaiic('  of  i  he 
hliiik  in  the  -!vy  al)(j\'e,  where  the  mmatura!  cleariie>.-  of  a 
calm  and  >il\-ei'\'  atmo-])here  ])re>cnt<  it-(  If,  houia'a-d  1)\'  a  dai'l-:, 
liarii  iiii''  of  -tormy  cloud-,  >uch  as  ti;i-  momi'iii  lowereil  (,\'ci- 
our  nia>l-.  a-  if  to  mar!-:  the  coidines  within  which  the  (■tforls 
of  man  would  he  of  no  a\'ail,  llie  reader  may  imagine  the  -en- 
.-ation  oi'  ;iwr  whicli  mu-1  acconi])any  that  oi'  uraiidcui'  in  the 
mindi  of  ihe  ochold(-r."  And  he  conlinues:  '"li'  e\'er  that 
foi'iiiiidc  of  -(^amen  wa-  l'airl\'  lri(d.  il  wa-  a--urei!ly  not 
ic-~  -o  on  ihi-  occa-ion  :  and  1  will  nol  conceal  the  prid,c  !  felt 
in  wii  nf--iiiu-  the  hoM  and  d('ci-i\-e  tone  in  whirh  the  ord'-rs 
wi'i-c  i--ucd  h'y  1  he  c:  ;m  111  audi  i'  1  he  ])rc-em  (  ';i])1  aiii  Sir  John 
Id'aiikiiii.  of  our  linlc  \-('--cl,  and  llie  ])romp1  il  udi'  ami 
-!•  adili''--   wi'h   whii'h   liie\'   were  executed   ii\'  the  ci'cw.'" 


;l'idil\-    aJMiroached    the 


lUi-rou-    Wa 


icr,  ('ach  pci'-on  in-' iiicl  i\-ely  -cciu'eil  hi-  owai  hold,  aicl.  wii  h 
hi-  cyi--  ii\i-d  u])on  *  he  ma-t-,  awaited  in  hreathie--  anxiety 
the    nioiiient    oi    eo!icu--!on.       "It    -lion    ari'i\'ed:     the    ic-j^- 

T :  I  ."  ■    ,  c'H  1  ilCi'  her  Wa  \'  t  hfi  lUuh   1  !m'   hlilM    !''e.  came  in    x'ii  ilent 

coniaci    with  the  main   i)(jdi\-.      In  an   in-lant    we  all   lo-t    oiir 


nrCIIAN  AND    FRANKLIN 


30 


foolin.U-;  the  musts  IxMit  with  the  iin])('tus,  and  the  cracking 
timlx'i's  tVoin  below  l)('s])()k('  a  ])i'essur(>  whicli  was  cak'ulatccl 
to  awala'ii  our  serious  ai)])rehensions.  'V\iv  v(\ssel  shiji-<>;ere(l 
luider  iIk^  siioek,  and  for  a  moment  scH'med  to  recoil  ;  but 
the  n(>.\t  ^va^(\,  curlinu,'  u])  \md(n-  her  eoimter,  (h'ove  lier 
about  liei'  own  length  within  the  mar<2,in  of  the  ice,  where 
she  !j,a\"(^  one  I'oll,  and  was  immediately  thrown  ])roa(lside 
to  the  wind  by  the  succcHHling  wave,  which  Ix^at  furiously 
a^'ainst  \\vy  stern,  and  brought  her  lee  si(l(^  in  contact  with 
the  main  bod}',  hnudnp;  her  weathcn-  side  (\\])os(xl  at  the  same 
time  to  a  ])i(H'e  of  ice  about  twice  hei'  own  dimc^ision.s.  This 
imfortun.ale  occmMXMice  })revented  tlu^  vessel  ])en(>tratinp;  suf- 
ficiently far  into  the  ice  to  esca])e  the  effect  of  tlu^  g;de,  and 
])lac(Ml  liei'  in  a  situation  whei'e  sh(^  was  assaiUxl  on  all  sid(^s 
by  battering-rams,  if  1  may  use  the  ex]^r(\'^si()n,  evc^y  one  of 
which  contested  tlu^  small  s])ace  which  sh(>  ()ccu])ied,  and 
(l(\dt  such  uurel(Miting  blows,  tliat  there  appcnu'ed  to  be 
scai'cel\'  any  i)ossibility  of  saving  her  fi'om  h)un(lering. 
Literally  tossixl  fi-om  ])iec(>  to  ])iece.  we  had  nothing  left  but 
))atieiu!y  abide  tlie  issu(>  ;  h)r  we  could  scai'cely  ke(>])  our 
leet ,  nmch  less  render  any  assistance  to  the  ^•essel.  The 
motion.  iudiM-d,  was  so  gri>at,  that  the  shiji's  bell,  which,  in 
the  hea\-iesl  gale  of  wind,  had  ne\'er  struck  of  itself,  now 
tolled  so  continually,  thai  it  w;is  ordered  to  be  muflle(l.  h)r 
th(>  |)ur])o-e  of  escai)ing  ttie  nn])leasant  association  it  was 
calculateil  to  ps'oducc. 

■'In  anticiiKit  ion  of  the  worst,  we  detiM'inined  to  attem])t 
])lacing  the  launch  ui)on  the  ice  mider  the  lee,  and  hun'i(>d 
into  her  such,  provisions  and  stores  as  could  a.t  the  moment 
b(>  got.  ;it.  Sei'ious  doubts  wei'e  reasonably  entertained 
of  lln>  bo;it  being  able  to  \\\'v  among  the  coni'used  mas>  by 
which  V\'(>  wei'e  encom]);i-sed  ;  yet  as  this  ai)])e:n'ed  to  !)(■  oui' 
!>n!y  I'C'fuge,  we  chrng  to  it  with  all  the  eagerness  of  a  l;ist 
resource." 


THE  <;REAr  winri-:  soirni 


II  \va>  onl}'  1()()  ('\'i(l('iit  That  >h('  could  not  lon,<r  sur\iv('  tlio 
crilical  ])()-ilio!i  in  which  she  \va>  ])hicc(l  aiul  that  the  only 
sah'atiou  lay  in  penetratinii'  still  farther  int(j  the  ice.  To 
this  end.  more  sail  was  s]>rea(l,  and,  with  the  addecl  ])ower, 
siie  I'i^'hted  hei'>elf,  s])lit  a  small  field  of  ice,  fourteen  feet  in 
thickness,  and  effected  a  ])assa<i-e  for  herself  between  tlie 
])ieces.  On  the  <2;ale  al)atin,ii.  both  shi])s  reached  the  o])en  sea, 
hut  were  ,<i'reatly  disabled,  the  Dorothea  in  a  foundering-  con- 
dition. In  this  useless  state  they  made  ior  Fair  Haven, 
in  S])itzber(i'en,  where  they  underwcnit  necessar}-  re])aii's. 
Lieutenant  J'"ranklin  ur<2.T'ntly  rer|uested  to  be  allowed,  to 
return  Xo  the  intere-tin<i'  (jue.-t  which  the-y  had  been  obliu'eil 
to  abandon,  but  thi<  bein,<2;  ini])o><il)le.  owin.u'  to  the  >hattei'ed 
condition  of  tlie  >hi]")s.  the  exjjedition  \)\\X  to  >ea  the  end  of 
Ausiu-t  and  reached  En<i;land  about  the  mi<ldle  of  October, 
1S18. 


CHAPTER   IV 

1S19-1S27:  Parry's  first  voyage. — Object,  to  survey  Lancaster 
Sound  and  pro\-e  tlu;  nou-exist(Mice  of  Crocker  ?vIountains.  — 
Discov(My  of  new  lamls.  —  Parry  Plands.  —  Attains  longitude 
110^  \\'.,  tlierehy  winning  tlie  bounty  of  five  thousand  pounds 
offered  l)y  Parliament.  — A\'int(a-s  near  Melvill(>  Island.  —  Second 
voyage.  — Ships  IIi cUi  and  /''"/■//.  —  Pxaniines  Duke  of  York  Pay 
and  I''rozen  ►"^trait  of  ISIiddleton.  —  A\'inters  off  Lyon  Lilet. — 
Sledge  journeys.  — Object,  to  make  Xorl Invest  l'assag(>  rid  Prince 
Regent  Inlet.  —  Pi^acluMl  Port  P^owen.  —  Ten  nujnths'  impris- 
onment. —  Destruction  of  the  Funj.  —  Ila.-^ty  I'cturn  to  Lngland. 
I''ourth  voyage. — Purpose  to  I'each  the  Pole  via  Spitzbei-gen 
with  sledg(>  boats  owv  ice.  —  Ihcla  as  transport.  —  Parr^-'s 
farthest,  82°  45'  X.,  reached  .Iun(>  23.  1S27. 

TtiE  priiicii)al  object  of  Lictitenant  W.  E.  Parry's  first 
voyage  under  tlu^  tlirc^ction  of  tlic  British  Admiralty  was 
to  ptii'sue  the  survey  of  Lancaster  Sound,  so  abruptly  dis- 
continu(>d  l)y  ('a])tain  Ross  the  ])re\'ious  year,  and  d(M'ide 
the  ])roba!)ility  of  a  nortlnvest  ])assag(^  in  that  direction,  thus 
settling  the  iunch-(lis])ute(l  (jiiestion  of  the  (>xistenc(^  of  the 
'■('rocker  ]\Iotuitains.''  whicli  Parr>'.  who  had  a('coni])ani(>d 
Pioss,  declared  from  the  first  1o  ha\'e  been  an  (xailar  illusion, 
Shotild  Lancaster  Sound  not  ])rove  na\"igabl(\  Snuth  and 
Jon(>s  sounds  were  to  be  explored. 

'idle  Ihchi,  :)7.~i  tons,  and  \\\^' (ri'i/x  r,  ISO  Ions,  wei-e  strength- 
(Mied  an<l  ])ro\-i.-ion.ed  foi'  two  years.  Sailing  fi'om  th(> 
d'hanies  May  11.  ISP),  they  reached  Davi,^  Sti'ait  th(>  la>t 
\\'eek  in  ,lun(\  and  luM'e  ex])erienced  a  good  (li>al  of  .annoyance 
from    ice,    thi'ough.    which    th(>\'    made    a    slow    and  difrHadt 

41 


42 


TllK   a  HEAT    Willi  E  yoETII 


]):i--;mv  l)y  }ica\'iii,ii'  inul  wjiipiim'.  rcacliinti:  Possis-ioii  Bay 
a  iniiiiTli  later.  I  pnii  laiii  liii'i  the  men  Vv'crc  not  a  Utile  sur- 
pri-cil  to  >(■!•  llicii'  own  toot])riiit>  of  the  ])r('vioiis  year:  a  fox, 
a  fa\Tii.  -onic  I'inu'  fiowci'-.  ami  -iiow-hniitinu's  w^'i'c  >c(*n. 
al-o  a  1)('-".  4'ufts  and  ,uroui!(l  ])lants  ,urc\v  in  coiisidci-al)!!' 
ai.uiK  lance   w-hcrcx'cr  tlicrc  was  moisture. 

l'roc('(M!ina:  on  their  \'oya,iie,  they  readied,  by  Au,u'u>t  4, 
lonu-itude  Sti'  ."))»'  \\..  tlu('('  deiii^-es  to  th(-  we.-tward  (jf 
Avhere  laml  had  lieen  laid  down  Ity  ('a])tain  \\o>>.  rassin,a; 
throimh  liari'ow  St  I'ait .  tiicy  found  ice  to  >uch  an  extent 
nortii  of  heo])olil  I.-iand  thai  Pari'y  dieterniineil  to  sha])e  his 
cour-c  to  the  >out!iWard  anil  ex])lore  the  1»(-autitul  slieet  of 
water  to  wide!!  he  i:a\'e  the  name  of  Pie,u'ent  Iidet. 

4d:e  com])a->  nowl'ecame  u.-ele-<.  owinu'  to  the  local  at- 
traction, and  the  1iiin!ac!e<  were  di-cafded.  llax'inu'  jienr- 
ti'aled  one  liundredi  a.nd  tweiit}'  mi!(-s  and  iiaxdim'  ui\'en  tiie 
fart!:e.-t  point  of  laiid^  liie  n.anie  of  ( 'a])e  Katcr.  it  \'.'a-  foiuid 
necc.-.-ary  to  iviui'u  to  the  southwal'di  or  he  caught  in  the  ice. 
Skirting'  tl:e  nortli  .-hore  of  liai'row  Strait,  they  latei'  ])a--ed 
two  lar'ie  o])cninu's.  to  tiie  first  of  w!:ieh  Pari'X'  ^lU'e  the 
name  ni'  WVuinLi't on  ( 'hanii''!.  al-o  naminu'  A'arious  eaijcs 
and  inlet-,  a-  lie  ])a,-~'Ml  thenn  liatham.  I'ai'lo^x',  ( 'ornwallis, 
l)(iwcn.  h')>';tMi  .\[a!t  in.  (  d'if!it  h.  Lov.lhcr.  Ikithui--! .  and  ot  her>. 

\a\'i'j.;il  io!i  now  liecame  extremely  diilicult,  owinu'  to 
ll;icl<  fnx-.  hut  nt  it  wit  h-l  andiiiii  man>'  o!  ^-tach-  t  hey  reach(-il 
the  cd.'i-i  (if  an  i-land  iar'ivr  tlian  any  yet  disco\'ei'ed,  which 
they  c,,h-d  Melvihe  Mand.  and  hy  t!ie  !th  of  Se]>temher 
l.iei,' eiaaiii  i'ar!'y  \'.'a-  alile  to  mal>;e  the  ioylul  amiounccmeiu 
iM  hi-  er,-\v  li.at.  ha^in-  [la-ed  l(in-!tn<le  IIU'  W ..  they 
\'/'  re  el;!  ii  'e,  I  1 , ,  -  n,.  rew  a  rd  I  if  h\'e  t  !iou-and  jx  lund-  promi>e(l 
\>y  I'a' iiaiir'ni  t'l  the  fir-t   -hip'-  cumpany  which  should  reach 


4''i    c'ii^ra''     tlielr    -uce ,   thex-    iia\'e    tlic    uatue    of    ( 'a])e 

;)MUnl\'  to  the   'a!'iiie-t    necj^  of  land  .-iuiited  in  the  di.-tance. 


FA!;JiY's  fIj';st   \'()YA(^k  4;] 

I'^vcry  cfl'oil  was  now  made  lo  ])usli  forward  in  the  li(j])c  of 
r('achin,ii,-  lonj2,itu(lc  I'-Hf  \\ .,  tlio'coy  scciirina,'  the  .-ccond  rc- 
wai'd  licld  (jut  by  xhv  <i'ov('rnni('nt.  They  liad  ])rop,r(>ss('d 
Init  a  short  distance  when,  to  tluar  great  disa])])ointrncnt, 
farther  advance  became  impossible  by  reason  of  an  ini])en(^- 
irable  barrier  of  ice. 

Tlie  ap])roach  of  win.t(M'  d(H'i(le(l  Lieutenant  Pai'ry  to  seek 
the  slielt(M-  near  Aleh-ille  Island  and  there  prepare  for  the 
lonu;  winter  months. 

To  \\ic  f^'rou])  of  isUmds  in  tlie  vicinity  of  whicli  he  had  taken 
refuge,  \w  gax'e  th(^  name  of  (ieorgian  Ishuids,  in  honour  oi 
His  ^Majesty,  King  (leorge  111,  l_)ut  later  the  name  was 
changed  to  Parr}'  Islands. 

Knowing  well  ihat  good  spirits  meant  good  health  in  the 
tedious  ^\'iuter  months.  Lieutenant  Pany  established  a  school 
f(jr  his  men,  as  well  as  the  diversicjn  of  a  news])a])er,  and  th(> 
shi])'s  crev,'  acted  several  ])lays,  which  were  most  enthusiasti- 
cally received.  Li  s])ite  of  enforceil  exercise  and  other  meth- 
ods for  kc('])ing  in  good  ])liysical  condition,  scur\'v  showed 
itself  amongthe  crew,  and  such  antiscorbut  ics  as  lemon  ,iuic(^, 
])ickle>,  mustard,  cress,  and  s])ruce-beer  ^\'ere  ])ut  into  i'e(|ui- 
sitioii.  J.atei'.  >]i()W-blindne<s  afiiict(-d  some  of  the  men.  but 
wa>  rerH>\-ed  by  washes  and  the  wearing  (jf  black  ci'ape  before 
the  eyes. 

As  the  sjji'ing  a])pi'oached,  the  slii])s  were  made  r(^ady  for 
the  first  oi)])or1unily  to  esc;i])e  fi'om  the  ice,  which,  howe\'er, 
remaine<l  im])eriet  rabk'. 

On  the  b^t  of  June  an  excur-ion  wa-  nuule  acro.-s  r\re!\il!(i 
L-land  by  Lieutenant  Pai'ry  ;uid  others,  carrying  i)r()\'i>ions 
for  thi'tM-  \\'eek>.  They  found  such  i)arls  of  tiic  gi'ound  as 
^\'(■I•e  fi'ec  i'rom  snow  c(.)\'ered  with  dwarf  willov,-,  -oi'i'el.  aiid 
])o])])\'.  abo  mos<  and  saxifrau'c.  A  few  ducks  and  i)1;!i'migan 
were  killed.  Lpon  hi^  I'eturn  to  the  shij)  the  mi'Mle  (;f 
June,  (.'a[)tain  Larry  ordered  his  men  to  make  dail\'  excur>ions 


44 


77//;  am-: AT  white  soirrn 


;)l'tcr  .-oi'i'cl,  A\iiicli  th('\'  ])r()cui'('(l  iii  larfic  (iii;nititi(\<  and 
UicailN'  enjoyed.  (  )n  llie  we>1ei'!i  side  of  ihe  island  at  Bush- 
maiTs  ( 'o\-e,  in  Liddon's  (lull',  ihey  found  "one  of  llie  pleas- 
ante>1  and  ni(js1  liahiladie  >])o1s  we  had  yv\  seen  in  the  Ai'ctic 
re_uions.  the  \-e<i('tat ion  hein.<i-  nioi'c  adundant  and  f(jrA\'ard 
than  in  an\- other  ])lace,  and  the  situation  sheltered  and  fa\'or- 
ai)le  foi'  U'aine.'" 

ddiouuh  channels  and  ))Oo!s  A\-ere  evei'vwhcre  forniin<i',  it 
A\'as  ]\(>\  until  the  ,-ec(jnd  of  Au,u'ust  that  the  <i;reat  nia-s  (ji  ice 
di'oke  u])  and  floated  out.  The  ,-hi])  now  made  for  the  o])eit 
w;i.ier;  hut  after  a  short  advance,  in  s])ite  of  e\'ery  eifort,  tney 
found  tli('rn.-eh-es  once  ni(jre  ])rev('nted  hy  the  ini])enetral)le 
hai'rier  of  ic(-  from  makin.i:;  their  wa}'  \\  est  ward.  There  ^(■enled 
no  altei'nati\'e  lait  a  return  lujineward,  and  after  takin,i!,- 
certain  additional  ohservations  of  the  two  coasts  extendin<i; 
alon,^■  Pjarrow  Strait,  they  set  sail  for  hinu'land. 

A  wai'Ui  welcome  a\\'aite(l  the  'iariiiK  na\u,aators,  who  had 
reached  a  lonuitude  u'reatei'  by  mor('  than  Ml)"  than  any  otli(-r 
ex])loi'er  :  who  had  di-co\'ered  man\'  new  hauls,  i-laiids,  and 
l)a\'-:  had  e-tahli-hed  1  he  fact  of  a  ])olar  ,--ea  nort  h  of  Amei'lca  ; 
and  had  win1e!'e(l  >ucce--full\'  in  tlie  Arctic,  lii'in,uin,2,'  hack  his 
crew  in  uood  condition. 

Parr\''-  unpi'f'cedent ed  >ucce-.<  and  the  (-nlhu-ia-m  for 
Ardie  exploi'iit  ion  throughout  hinuland  decided  the  !-)rili-h 
Adiuirahx'  lo  >('\[i[  out  a  si'C()nd  e\])e(lii  ion  to  allempt  a 
p;i--ai.',e  in  a  lowei'  latitude  than  that  of  Melville  h-land. 
The  llii-lii  ;ind  llii'  /■'"/■//  wei'e  m;ume(l  and  ])i'o\'i.-ioned  and 
p;!l  aiider  the  eonimand  of  ('aplain  I'ari'y  and  Lieulenant. 
I  .vwii.  win  i-c  1  r;i  \'el-  in  Tripoli,  Mourzouk,  ;ind  ol  hei'  ],art  -  ol 
iiorihei'ii  .\i'ri(';i  ii;i(l  ;ilread\'  hrouuhl  him  coii-idera1  ion  and 
-oiiic  diLO'ec  of  r(  Mown.  The  tran-])or1  Sdntiliis  wa-  lo 
:ii'i-i  imp;!  ii\"  llie  -hip-  ;i-  tar  a-  llie  ice.  ;ind  1r;in--hip  extra 
pi'i  I'/i-ioii-  ;iud  -I  ocf;  ;i-  -odii  ;i-  I'ooni  eoiild  he  jound   for  1  hem. 

d"iic    .-iiio-  -;i  ifd    I'l'Dni    111'-    Xol'e    on    the    Slli    of    AlaW    1  S_M  , 


PAimv's  sEco.xD  voyA(;E  45 

atul  hy  tlu^  2(1  of  July  wore  at  the  mouth  of  Hudson 
Strait,  having  ]7art(Hl  with  the  Xantilas  tlie  i)r('viou.s  day. 
lecheries  in  foi'niidablo  numbers  had  ah'eady  be(>n  encountercMl, 
and  the  desohite  coiuhtion  of  th(>  shores,  the  naked  rocks,  the 
snow-covered  vaUeys,  and  tlie  thick  fogs  encountertnl  wer(> 
anything  but  (Micouraging. 

Progrc^ss  was  now  ukuU'  through  verj'  hea\'y  fioes^  and  l)e- 
twcMMi  strong  curnnits,  edches,  and  icebergs  tli(>y  were  nuMuiced 
by  serious  (huig(>r  for  mon^  than  ten  days.  Whil(>  (>mbay(Ml 
in  the  ice,  th(\v  sight(Ml  near  Resolution  Island  thre(^  strange 
shi})s  also  fast  in  the  ice.  These  th(\y  later  managed  to  join, 
and  found  them  to  be  Hudson  Bay  Com]iany's  tradca's,  t\\v 
Prince  oj  Wclc^Ahi.'  Eddijdone,  and  the  Lerr/  M'dl'nujton,  char- 
tercel  to  c()nv(\yone  himdred  and  sixty  emigrants,  who  intendcMl 
scuttling  on  Lord  Selkirk's  (>stat(>  at  the  Red  Riv(M'.  Of  thc^se 
])eo])!e  Lieutenant  Lyon  writers  an  inten^sting  account  :  — 

"While  nearing  these  vess(^ls,  we  obs(>rved  tlie  settlers 
waltzing  on  dcx'k  for  above  two  hours,  tlu^  nuai  in  old-fash- 
ioried  gray  jacla^ts,  and  the  women  wearing  l()ng-(vu"ed  mob 
caps,  like  thos(^  us(m1  by  Swiss  ])(^asants.  As  \\c  wei-e  sur- 
roundtMl  by  ice,  and  the  thermometer  was  at  the  freezing 
])oiiit,  it  may  be  su])])osed  that  this  ball'//  rcrofrisco  afforded 
us  much.  amus(>ment." 

Some  days  lat(M'  th(\v  fell  in  with  some  I'>l;imos,  who  came 
out  to  the  shijis.  tlie  men  in  tln^r  kaxalvs.  the  wonuai  in 
theii'  s])ecial  "oomiaks."  The  nativ(\s  bo:u'(led  the  slu])s 
anil,  sa\'s  ('a])tain  Lyon  :-  - 

"It  is  (|uite  out  of  my  power  to  descrilu^  tlu>  shouts, 
yells,  and  laughter  of  the  savages,  or  llu^  confusion  AS'hich 
(\\isl(Ml  for  two  or  three  hours.  Hie  females  w(M'e  at  hi->t  \-('i'\' 
s!i>',  and  unwilhng  to  come  on  llie  ice,  but  bartci'ed  c\('ry- 
thing  from  their  boal^.  I'liis  tiinidil>',  liowever.  soon  wore 
off.  and  th(\\',  in  the  end,  became  a~  noisy  and  boisterous  as 
tlie  men." 


4G  THE   CHEAT    WHITE  SORTII 

"'l"li:'  >n';!nti'fr>  wm'c  >o  well  pleased  in  our  sofiety,"  con- 
tinue.- (  'a|)Tain  Lyon,  "■llial  lliex'  sii(jw(mI  no  wish  t(j  leave  us, 
and  when  ihe  market  haJ  (juite  eea>e(l.  they  hegan  dancinp,' 
and  i)h;\"iiui'  with  ()\\v  i)e()])ie.  on  the  ice  alon.ii'^ide. 

"In  order  to  anni-e  our  new  [tcquaintanee-  as  irnich  as 
l)().--i';.l''.  tiie  iiddler  w;e-  >ent  (jn  the  ice,  where  he  iri.-tantly 
h)und  a  nin-t  diclio-hiful  -et  (jf  danc('rs.  (jf  V\"honi  >onie  of  the 
weunen  ke])r  ])retty  uood  time.  Their  (jnly  ftKure  consistefl 
in  >tan!]nnu'  and  ju!n])inu'  with  all  th(-ir  mi,u'ht.  Our  musi- 
cian. \\\\<)  wa-  a  lively  t'ellow.  soon  cau^u'ht  the  infection,  anrl 
lieuan  I'Uttinu'  ca])ei's  al>o.  Iji  a  >hor1  time  every  orie  on  the 
flw!'.  officer-,  men.  ami  -avau'e-,  wei'c  daucinu-  tou'ether.  and 
exhiliit('d  o;ie  of  the  nio>t  exti'aordinary  >i,u'ht-  I  ('\'e]-  wit- 
ne-.-ed.  <  'ne  of  om-  seiimen.  of  a  fn-.-h.  ruddy  eom])lexion. 
excited  tlic  admiration  of  all  t!ie  youn,u'  i'ennde-.  Avho  juitteil 
hi-  fae('  and  d;mced  round  h.ini  whei'cver  he  went.  The  ex- 
ei'1  ion  of  dancinti'  -o  (-xhilarnteil  ilu-  I-"-kimo-.  that  they  had 
the  appi  arcnce  of  hcinLi'  hoi-tej-ou-ly  dru!ik,  and  jdayed  many 
ext  ;';h  ^rd'nary  pranlv-.  Anion'.i'  other-,  it  wa-  ;i  f;ivorite  jol-;e 
to  run  -l,\'!y  i^'hind.  the  -eamem  arul  -houtinii'  loudly  in  one 
(•:ii-.  to  ui\'e  them  at  tlie  -aiu"  time  a  \"ei'y  -nairt  -l;i])  on  the 
oth'i'.  W'l.ilr  looking;  on.  I  w;e<  -harp>ly  scdut^d  in  this 
ncuiiicr,  end.  of  conr-e.  wa-  puit"  -t;irlled.  to  the  iri-f-it  aiiiu-e- 
m<n-!    of  l;:e   k\--i  Milder-.      {)!;!•  cool^,   who  Wa-  a   ni()-t   acti\''' 

al.d  Un\S'i-J!''e(  i  iumoi'T.  k(-c;!mc  :-o  U!'!';n  a  f:i\"ori1e.  that  (-X'e^'y 
Olif    iiirv.-d    !:i-     '■;;!■-    -o     -ound.ly    ;i-    to    okliLl'"    the    ]  loi  i]'    lUMU    to 

[■■■lire  !ro:ii  -ui'ii  do!-"  !■!■(  CI-  niar'<-  of  aiJin'ol ';iTion.  .Vmoni;: 
o-c-!'  -po'i-,  -oMii-  '>\  !'■!  I'i-ldnio-.  rather  i'ou!i:''!v'  hut  \\-:di 
nK..;ii  ^,!,id  cui:cc\  cSciih^mM  ■]  (iiir  ])!'op|c  io  wa-o-dc.  ( )ne 
mcM  in  oa  :■!  icui'i  r.  w'ci  had  'hrowai  -c'/oi^al  of  hi-  coiiiit  rynien. 
a1U.i^:a-d  aa  Mffc'cf  i  c'  a  \'i'!'\"  -tl'Miia  make.  IcU  the  poor  -aX'ai^e 
'A  I-  ■  ■!-'  ■: .!  ■  ;\^  1  CO  i-i  r  ,  vr^\\  no  v  rv  i  a-^/  I'-ill  :  \>-\  .  aklioii'j.h 
•  ■•."■■!'v  I  c;i'  -.'.'a  -  ia'"di'm!"  a'  hi:!i.  !.<■  Oori'  li  wiih  exemplary 
LiM'id    icaiio!'.      Ti'r    -a.cao   offif  r   afforded    u-    much    di\'ei'-ion 


VllOZEX    STIlAir    OF  MIDDLKTOX  47 

hy  Icachin,!;-  a  hir.ti'c  ])arty  of  wonu'ii  to  bow,  courtosy,  shake 
hands,  turn  their  lo(>s  out,  aiul  ])('rl'oriu  oth(>r  ])ohtc  acconi- 
])hshnicn1s;  tuc  whole  ])arty,  inastcr  and  pupil.-,  present iii^ti; 
the  strictest  gravit}'. 

"Toward  niidni,nht  all  om-  men,  exe(>])t  tlu^  watch  on  deck, 
turned  into  tlieir  beds,  and  the  fati(i;ued  and  luniii,'ry  h^kiinos 
returned  to  their  boats  to  lake  their  su])])er,  which  consisted 
of  luiu'ps  of  raw  lie>h,  and  blu])ber  of  seals,  birds,  enti'ails, 
etc.  ;  lickin.a,-  their  finuci's  with  ^'reat  zest,  an<l  witli  kni\'es 
or  finu;ers  sf'ra])in.a,'  the  blood  and  grease  which  ran  down  their 
chins  into  thei;-  mouths. " 

j'ai'ry  made  an  examination  (jf  Duke  of  York  Bay,  and  the 
201  h  of  August  I'eache.l  the  Frozc^n  Sti'a.it  of  Middleton.  Two 
da\'s  later  the  //re/a  andi  Furij^ioX  well  into  lve})iilse  T^)ay,  and 
a  careful  examination  oi  the  shores  was  made  by  parties  of 
olhci'rs  and  m(ni  in  IxKits.  l^y  tlie  Mist  of  August  they  reached 
(iiire  ]>ay,  which  was  ])acked  with  ice.  Ijicountei'ing  thick 
fog-,  northerly  winds,  and  heavy  ice-iloes,  th(>y  h)und  that  in 
spite  of  evei'V  exei'tion  tliey  were  ixMug  carried  back  to  \]\o 
spot  in  I'"ox  Channel  from  wliich  they  had  start(Ml  some  days 
befui'e.  irowever,  ihey  later  made  some  advance  an.d 
anchoi-ed   near   l.yon    Inlet. 

I'laily  in  Ociobri'  l  he  .-luilgc,  oi-  young  ice,  l)egan  to  form,  a 
warning  of  a])p/i'oaching  winli  r.  to  be  folioweil  shoi'tly  by  ihe 
])aiicake  ice  and  ba\'  ice,  which  neces-ilated  finding  at  once 
A\i!iler  {[uarters  for  the  ships.  The  southeast  extremity  of  an 
i-huid  off  L,\'ou  Inlet  was  s(>!ect(>d,  and  calleil  AMnter  Island, 
anil  the  UKjuolonous  \\-inter  closed  in  upon  ll;em  shortly  aflei-. 

The  u>ual  tlieati'ical  di\'ersions  wei'i'  ]:'i-()\'ided  for  the 
entertaimn(-ut  (jf  the  crew,  and  ih(-  "  liivab '"  v.'a-  ])re<i-n1e(!  as 
Well  a-  ;ui(jth('i'  succe.~-ful  play.  The  errw  took  kiu.diy  to 
a  <iTooI  est;d;!i>iieil  by  the  c)fhc.''r-  :Uid  to  other  form-  of 
iiiciUal  and  i)liy-!i-;il  actix'ily  d.e-imicd  to  fceei)  tiie  expcdiliou 
in  good  lu'idtli  and  s[)ii'it-.      (.'hrir-lmas   wa<  celebrated  wilh 


4^ 


THE   CHEAT    WIHTE    WOUril 


(■>l)cc!al  ,U'()()(1  cheer,  and  ]ji,uli>!i  r()a>t  beef,  wliich  had  been 
kepi  by  bciuii'  frozen,  was  M,'r\-e(l.  as  well  as  cranberry  ])ies 
and  plum  ])uddin,!j,>.  The  effect  of  the  intense  cold  u])on  cer- 
tain of  their  store<  is  interesting'  :  — 

"Wine  froze  in  the  bottles.  P(jrt  was  conp;ealed  into  thin 
])ink  lannna',  which  lay  loosely,  and  occupied  the  whole 
len.a,lh  of  the  bottle.  Wdiite  wine,  on  the  contrary,  froze  into 
a  solid  and  ])erfectly  tran>])arent  mass,   reseniblin;^'  anilu'i'."' 

On  the  bltii  of  Abirch,  a  ])art\'  under  ('a])tain  Lyon  started 
out  to  explore  the  land  near  the  shi])s  ;  they  were  ])ro\'isioned 
for  three  or  four  da\'s.  but  their  ex])erience  was  uKjst  mifor- 
tunate.  The  cold  AVas  intense,  their  tent>  at  ni<i'ht  aff(jrdin^ 
little  [)i'oteeTion  aji'ainst  the  fi'ifi'htfully  low  teni])ei-alui'e. 
They  spent  -ome  time  di^i!,;uin,<i'  out  a  >now  hut,  which  they 
hoped  Would  ])ro\'e  warmei',  but  this  wa-  hardily  more  ,-ati>- 
lactoi'y.  ddie  f(dl<nviim'  mornin,ti  they  found  theniseh'cs 
almo-t  buried  with  snow  which  had  drifted  at  ni.u'ht  diu'ing 
a  fierce  o'ale  which  now  raucil.  All  ])ai'a])hernalia.  .-ledares, 
etc.,  were  com])leiely  bui'ied.  To  remain  where  they  Avere 
wa>  a-  impract  ic;ible  a-  to  mo\'e  on..  ( 'ari'yini::  with  them  a 
f('\\'  ])ound.-  of  bread,  -onie  rum.  and  a  s])ade,  the  ]);irty  >et 
out  i:i  the  hope  of  reaching!,'  the  ships.  ('apt.ain  Lyon  recoi'ds 
their  -uii'eriiiu-  a<  follow-  :- — 

"  Xot  kuowiiiU'  where  to  u'o.  We  waud.ered  anions  hea\'y 
hununoiL-  of  ice.  and  -ufferinu'  fi'om  cold.  fatiii'Ui'.  and  anxi- 
e1y.  wet'e  -oou  coiuplel  el\'  bewih  lere(  1.  .■~^e\"erai  of  oUl'  I^iryv 
udw  beuai)  to  exhibit  -\'m])lon-  of  that  hori'id  kind  of  in-eii- 
>ibilily  which  i-  the  pi'elud.e  of  -leep.  They  all  ])l'ofe--ed 
<X1  reine  wiiiiimiic-<  1  ()  do  wiiat  1  hey  were  told  ill  order  to  keep 
in  exi-rci-e.  I'Ut  none  obeyed:  on  the  contrary,  they  I'eeled 
aboin  like  diriHiken  men.  ']"he  iwn'-  of  -e\-ei'al  were  -e\-erely 
fi'o-1  lii:0'|i,  ;,!,ii  -.o!n<'  !i;;d;  lor  a  c( lu-iderabje  time  lo-t  -en-a- 
1  iMii  i:i  1  hi'ir  lin^:e!'~  and  i  ne-  ;  yrt  tiny  made  not  1  he  -!iLdi1e-t 
exerbiiu    lo    rub    bne    oart-    affected,    and    e\"en    di-coi;1  inued 


TKX  MONTHS^    IMPinsoXMEST  4;t 

their  jiiMicral  custom  of  warning  (vicli  otluM'  on  ol)s{'r^•in<i•  a 
discoloration  of  tin*  sl<.in.  Mi'.  Palmer  em])l()\'e(l  the  people 
in  l)uil(linu;  a  snow  wall,  ostensihly  as  ;i  sheltei'  irom  the  wind, 
hilt  in  fact  to  ,i;iv(^  them  exei'cise  when  standina,'  slill  must 
ha\'e  ])i'oved  fatal  to  men  in  our  circumstances.  ^ly  atten- 
tion was  exclusively  dii'cM'ted  t(^  S(>rgeant  Si)eckman,  wlio, 
h;!\"iiiiz,'  IxH'n  re])eated!y  warned  that  his  nose  was  frozen,  liad 
])aid  no  attention  to  it,  owing  to  the  stat(>  of  stui)efacti()n  into 
which  he  had  fallen.  The  frost  bite  now  extended  ()\-er  one 
side  of  his  face,  which  was  fro/en  as  hard  as  a  mask  :  the  (eye- 
lids wer(^  stiff  and  one  cornei' of  the  u])])er  li]>  so  drawn  u])  as 
to  ex])()se  thet(H'th  and  ti'ums.  My  hands  l)ein,t;  still  wai'm,  I 
liad  hai)i)iness  in  i'(>s1()rin,ii;  circulation,  after  which  I  used  all 
my  endeavoi's  to  keep  the  ])o()!'  fellow  in  motion  ;  but  he  com- 
])laine(l  sadly  of  li'iddiness  and  dinmess  of  si,t;ht,  and  was  so 
^^'eak  as  to  be  unable  to  walk  without  assistance.  His  case 
was  so  alarming'  that  T  expected  e\-ery  moment  h(>  would  lie 
down  never  to  ri>e  again. 

'■  Our  ]')ros])eci  now  becanu^  ev(My  moment  moi'(>  gloomy,  and 
it  v.'as  but  too  ])robable  that  four  of  our  i)art\' would  bcMUUible 
to  sur\-l\-e  anotlier  houi\  Mr.  l^ilmer,  howevc^r,  ende-a\'oi'ed. 
as  well  ;i>  m\-i'lf,  to  chec!'  the  ])eople  up,  but  it  was  a  faint 
aiti'mjjt,  as  w-'  had  not  a  >ingl(>  hope  to  gi\'e  them.  I^v(M'y 
])iec(>  ol'  ice.  oi'  e\'en  of  small  rocl;  or  stone,  w.as  now  su])posed 
to  be  the  >hip-,  and  we  liad  great  difhculty  in  p)'e\-enting  t!i(> 
men  from  i-unnina,-  to  the  different  objects  whicli  atlr.acted 
tiieni,  and  conse(|iieiit ly  losing  theinsel\-es  in  tii(>  drift.  In 
th!<  --tate,  while  Mi'.  Palmer  was  rumiing  I'ound  us  to  A\'arin 
binisi'lf,  he  suddenly  pitch(>d  on  a  new  b(\alen  track,  and  as 
exerci-e  \\';is  iii(li.~])en<ab!('.  we  determine(l  on  h)ll()V,'in<i.'  it, 
wlua'CMM'  it  might  lead  us.  I  ia\ing  t  ak(Mi  the  Sei'geant  under 
my  coat,  he  r(co\'ei'ed  a  liltlc.  and  w'v  mo\'ed  onwaj'd.  \\'l:cn 
to  our  infinite  joy  w<-  found  that  the  i)atti  \vi\  to  tlH>  ship<."' 

It   was   not    until   the  2d  of  Juh'that    the  shins,  free   froni 


Tin:  a  HEAT  wiirri:  x  out  if 


ire  I'iir  ihc  fir.-t  lime  in  2H7  (la\'s.  ])ut  to  sea,  l)Ut  not  without 
(laii-ivr  ol'  -'jucczi'.-  iVoin  liic  nio\'in,u'  icc-llocs  which  iVt'CjUcntl}' 
1  h real  cm 'd  tlic  ilc-l  rurtion  of  t  tic  >hi]).  i'li-hiu.ti,'  to  the  noilli- 
wai'il,  they  cntc!'l;iinc(l  hi,uh  hope.-  of  makin^i;,'  tlic  looked-for 
pa^-aire  to  the  Polai'  Sea,  hut  unfoi't unately  a  fi^rniidahle  hnc 
of  inii)enct  I'ahlc  ice  harrcd  tiic  way  and  deternhned  Parry  to 
make  ;u"i  exj)edilio]i  aloiiti,'  the  fro/en  surface  of  the  -t!'ait  in 
wlhcli  they  found  t  heni-el\'cs. 

For  four  d[a\'<  Pari'y,  acc()nii)anied  by  a  party  of  -ix,  made  a 
lahot'ioa-  :in(l  fat  i'.ruin2;  ailvance  over  the  uneven  huanmocks 
of  ice  that  coufi'outed  them.  At  times  ojicn  water  made  the 
.iourne\'  -till  more  ["'I'hou-.  Their  exertion-  were  at  kc-t 
re])aid  \\'hen  they  came  in  \'iew  of  a  hold  ca])e,  where  they 
found  the  -irait  at  it-  Uarrowe-t  j)art  ahout  two  nuh'^  aci'o--. 
d'o  t  he  wi-twai'd  ihe  land  I'ccciled  until  it  liccanie  inxi-iMe, 
and  ('aptain  I'ai'r}'  heheM  the  u'reat  Polar  S;'a,  into  which  he 
iiad  lonii'  ho;)iMl  to  force  his  way.  Xaminu'  tin-  the  I'ury  and 
Heel  a  St  rail  .  he  made  rrady  for  t  lie  I'et  urn  to  t  hf  -iii|)<. 

d^akin.u'  adi\-anTau'e  of  e\-(>i'y  fa.vouraMe  condition.  < 'a])tain 
Parr\'  now  madf  a-  ra])idi  };r(iu,-re-<  toward  !ii>  u'oal  a-  the  ice 
WduM  ])''rn.it.  Idnie!'  i'ull  -ail  thfy  i)U>hedi  into  the  I'olteii 
icr  il'a^  foi'meil  the  hari'ier  to  the  oixai  \\'ater.  hut  -uddiailx' 
th<'\-  iicraine  fixed.  in  .t  another  yard  could  he  -^aini-di.  It 
wa-  n(c.\-  foup.d  !i( ce-^-ai-N'  to  extricate  the  \-(..-;--rl-  and  -rck 
-h"lii-r  inv  aiinijicr  loim  wimei'.  (  Ml  the  ;-!i)di  ei'  <  )ctoh<'r.  hy 
the  u-Uil  (iprraiion  ef  -awinu'.  tlu'  -hip-  wi-ri^  drawn  into  the 
harhoui'oi'  hilMoiik.  and  nucle  readi\- for  ihe  wiiii  .'r,  which  wa< 


iw  r,-! pally 
lv\cur-i(  <\\ 


.cere  o;-ca-ionall\"  ncdc  with  dou-  aiid^  -lcd'.:'es 
li-hini'!-.  h;;i  *h'-  -■■a-on  -i-iiird  d^ 'Wn  wiiii 
'y  and  lii^'  -(■'■oiid  loici  wintci''-  n!j.hi  pro\'!-il 
;.  iui  1  han  thi-  Wv--.  1  )eai!i  a!;d  -'-m-x-}-  m.id!' 
'!'•  ai  'O^al'anfia  and  alt  hoHMJ,  (  •.,,,-•  .i;,,  P;,;M-y 
■r  etforl  tic  followin''  \'!-a.r  h\-  tran-f'^r- 


iciivi  ■  all 


DESTIU'CTIOy    OF   THE   Fl'llY  51 

ring  to  the  Furn  ull  ]jrovisions  that  could  Ijc  sparod.  and  <v\\A- 
ing  tlie  Ilecla  home  with  the  .sick,  this  ])roject  was  abandoned, 
and  on  the  Otli  of  August  they  turned  tlieir  faces  homewar(L 

Tlie}'  touched  at  Wintc^r  IsUmd  and  found  radishes,  nnis- 
tard,  crt'ss,  and  onions  tliat  they  had  planted  the  ])revious 
year  still  alive.  Tlie  ships  were  diifted  about  in  a  st(jrmy  sea 
at  the  mercy  of  ice-floes  and  adverse  currents.  Xot  until 
S('])tember  2o  did  th(\v  g(4  free  into  the  Atlantic  :  and,  the 
lOtli  of  ()ctol)er,   182.],  reached  Lerwick,  Scotland. 

This  exjiedition  having  ])roved  tlie  impractical)ility  of 
a  ])assage  through  the  western  extremity  of  ^Melville  Island  or 
by  way  of  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  it  was  hoped  that  a  passage 
might  })(>  accom|)lished  through  Pi'ince  Eegent  Inlet.  For 
this  ])ui'pos(>,  Captain  Pai'ry  was  again  fitted  out  in  the  Ilecla 
and  in  th(^  accidental  absence  of  Captain  Lyon,  Lieutenant 
lI(.)i)]Minr  was  j)ut  in  command  of  the  Fury.  The  ex])e(liii()n 
saih^l  from  Xorthfleet  on  tlie  lOtli  of  ALiy,  1821,  and  entere.l 
Davis  Stnut  about  tlie  middle  of  June.  Lancaster  Sound 
was  not  reached  until  Se])tember  10,  and  Port  P)Owen  was 
made  their  winter  (juartcrs.  After  ten  months'  imprison- 
nuent,  tlie  shi])s  -were  once  more  free,  Ijut,  later  overtaken  b}' 
gale-.  i)()th  ships  sustained  serious  damag(\  Drift  ice  caught 
"ih('m  and  threatened  immefliate  desTrue^'aon.  The  Furii  was 
thi'own  on  -hore  and  seriously  damag"d.  Later  it  v/as  h)und 
nee(^ssar\'  to  ;il)andon  her.  Tlie  IFchi.  now  ovei'crowded  by 
tlie  |)!'0\-!-i()[is  and  ci'ew  of  tlv  Fnru,  could  no  longer  ])ursue 
hci'  course  aiiil  wa-  forced  to  return  to  Fngland.  Ilitter  as  was 
hi-  di-a])])oi!uincrir.  Parry  clung  to  the  i<lea  tliat  a  northwe-t 
];a--;;ige  would  some  day  Ije  accomplished,  and  to  this  end  he 
wr(jte  :  — 

'"I  feel  coiihdcnt  that  tlie  undertakinii.  if  it  he  d('eme(l  a'l- 
\'is:il)l('  ;;r  ;iny  future  time  T(.)  pur-u"  it,  will  one  ch-y  (M'  ot'icr 
b:'  iiccoiMphshcil  :  fo!'  -ettinsj:  'i-ide  the  aecidi-nl-  to  wthc'i, 
frtjiii  tlieii'  \'cr\-  nature,  ,-uch  attemots  mu-t  be  lialjie,  a-  well 


THE   (rllF.AT    Will  IK    yoilTir 


a-  other  uiifav()ral)l('  circuui-i  anccs  which  huiiiaii  f(jr('si<i-lit 
call  iic\-ci-  "iuanl  aLi.'aiii>t,  or  human  power  coiiir(;l,  1  cannot 
hut  l)eUe\'e  it  to  he  an  eiiteri)rise  (jf  pi-acticahiHty.  It  inaV 
he  trie(l  often  ami  fa/ih  for  >e\-eral  fa\'orahle  and  h)rtunate 
circuiii>tances  must  he  comhineil  foi'  its  accomj)h>hinent  :  hut 
I  herie\'<',  ne\-ertheh'<.-,that  it  will  ultimatel}' he  acc(.)m])lishe(l."" 

■■  I  am  much  mistaken,  inileeil."  he  continues,  "if  the  Xorth- 
\\'e-.t  Pa->a,u'<'  ever  hecome-the  hu>ine>s  (jf  a  sin,L!;l(-  -uminer  : 
nay,  I  helie\-e  that  nc^thinu'  hut  a  concurrence  of  \-ery  favor- 
ahle  circum>tance>  f-  lilvcly  e\-er  to  make  a  >in,ule  winter  in 
the  ice  -uflicient  for  it>  accomplishment.  P>ut  there  i-  no 
aruument  a,iiain.-t  the  ])o»iliility  of  final  success  :  for  we 
know  that  a.  \\'iiner  in  t  lie  ice  may  he  pas-ed  not  only  in  safety, 
hut    in   health  and   conhort." 

"I  in  April.  lS2h,"  write-  Captain  !'arr\-.  "  ])ro])ose(l  to  the 
Jiiu.'hl  Honorah'e  A'i-count  Ah'U'ilh'.  the  fir>i  hu'd  commis- 
sioner (jf  the  Admiralty,  to  attem])t  to  reach  the  Xorth  Pole 
hy  meiuis  of  traVfllinu'  with  sled'^c-hout-  o\'er  the  ir'c.  or 
1hroU'.:'h  any  -])ac('-  of  o])en  water  tha_t  miiiht  occur.  .My 
])ropo-a!  wa-  -oon  al'tf-rward  referred  To  tiie  ])re.-idcnt  and 
council  of  the  Pioyal  Society,  who  -tromi'ly  reeommended 
it-  adoption:  a.nd  an  exi)e'!ii  ion  hi-iuLi;  accordiimly  directed 
1o  hi-  e(iui))ped  for  Tiiis  ])Ui-l)M-e.  I  had  the  honour  of  heiim 
ap])omlei!  to  till'  comma.iid  oi'  it  ;  and  m>'  commi--ion  for  \\\< 
maje-ty"-   -hip   the   If'-rl'!,   which    w;i-   to    carry  u-   to   S])itz- 

hei'LlcM.    W:i-   daterl   the    lltti    of   \o\-emhi-r.    Is2t). 

"'hwo  iio;it-  were  cour-t  pi  [d  ( .,  j  ;ii    W'oolwich.  uiider  mv  su- 

])eriti' .-n  I'-ner,     ;iflei'     ;ui     I'XCflli'lit      Innilrl     -ULl'Lie>1ed     hy     Mr. 

l'i''i!a',  and  iii'a!'l>'  re-i'mhhu'i  w  hat  ai'e  eiilled  '  t  roop-1  loal -.' 
h.-!  '.■ill'.'  'j,'''\'!i  i!ai  lie--  of  tlonr,  \\-li  !i  till'  f\1 1'l'iiie  hreadt  !i  carried 
'.'.■'■il  !o!'w:.!-(!  Mild  a!'l.  and  po--i  --iiiLl.'  t  he  utmo-1  iiUoN'aiiey.  a- 
V-'W  a-  eapai'ity  (ny  -U)]-:-'i<-.  'hicir  idi-lh  Wm-  tWdlly  feet, 
and  ih'd  i'\'!'iinc  iirc:idiii  -i-\-i-ii  fe;'i.  The  timh^-r-  were 
mad'-   oi    ;ou'i';;   ;L-'n  ;m-i  !iii-!vor\'.  one  inch   h\-   half  an   iiii-'h 


I'AnnY  s  Forirni  i'dyage 


s(|U;i!'('.  and  a  foot  apart,  with  a  "half  limlx'r'  of  >ni:ill('r  size 
lictwicn  {^ac'li  two.  On  \\w  outsidi*  of  tlK>  fi'nmc  thus  foriiunl 
was  hiid  a  c'ox'crin.u'  of  Alackiutosh.'s  water  proof  (■an^•as, 
the  out(n'  part  hchi.ii  cox'crcd  with  tar.  ()\'cr  this  was  jjlaccd 
a  i)huik  h)r  fir,  only  thi'cc-sixtcM'iitlis  of  an  inch  thick  ;  then 
a  sheet  of  stout  h'lt  :  and  over  aU,  an  oak  ])lank  of  the  same 
tliickness  as  the  fir  :  tlie  whole  of  these  l)t>in,u,'  firmly  and  closely 
secured  to  the  timhers  by  iron  screws  a])]iIi(Ml  from  wit h(.)ut." 

"On  each  sidt>  of  the  keel,"  continues  ('aptain  Parry,  "and 
])rojectin_<i  considerably  lielow  it,  was  attached  a  stron^ii; 
'I'umier"  shod  with  smooth  steel,  in  the  manner  of  a  sledtj,(^, 
u.i)on  which  the  boat  entii'ely  I'ested  while  uixju  the  ice.'' 
Two  wheels  were  also  attaclu'd,  but  soon  discarded  as  useless, 
owin.ii  to  the  unev(-nness  of  the  ice. 

Two  officers  aiui  twelve  men  were  seh-cted  for  each  boat's 
crew.  The  ILcln.  acting  as  traus])orl  fo!'  the  ad\"enture, 
sailed  March  27.  1S27,  and  made  Hakluyt"s  Headland  l)y  the 
b)th  of  May,  where  she  wa>  shoi'tly  beset  by  an  ice-lioe  which 
can'ied  liei-  otf  to  tlie  e;istM'ard.  cau<in,u-  both  delay  and  vexa- 
tion. For  the  safety  of  the  Ilccln  it  ^\■as  found  ii(>cessarv  to 
return  to  Spitzber.iien  and  secure  anchoi'a.iic  in  a  sah'  harbour. 
This  Parry  accom])lished  and,  finding'  a  con\-enient  reces-;, 
which  he  named  jlccla's  ( 'ox'e,  made  ready  h^r  the  main  object 
of  1  he  expedition. 

Having  with  him  sevent\--one  days'  jirovisions,  con<i>ting 
of  ]>emmican,  l;i>cuit,  cocoa,  and  I'um.  with  .-i)irit  of  wine  to 
be  u>e(l  a<  fuel,  change^  of  warm  clothinu'.  thick  fui'  dre<.-es 
foi-  .-le(>ping  in.  and  stout  I'^kimo  boots,  lie  got  away  ,]m\o 
22,  and  -pi'oceeded  in  oi)en  waier  -ome  eisz'hty  miles,  wlien  the 
boats  came  to  a  tr\-i!m-  condition  of  mixe<l  -urfaec  ic('  lunl 
watci'.  thr(»ugh  which  it  wa>  found  necess;u'\-  allei'nately  to 
haul  and  Hoat  them.  Owing  to  the  better  condition  of  tlu^ 
ice,  it   w;is  de(>me(l  best   to  re\'erse  the  u-tial  course  nf  life. 

"Travelling  by  night  and  .-leeping  by  da\-."   wi'ito  (  'aptain 


:)4 


Tin-:  (iiLKAT  wiiiTK  ^^<)Jrnl 


P;uT\'  "so  completely  inverted  the  luitunil  order  of  tilings 
ti'.at  it  wa.-.  didicult  1o  persuadi'  ours(4v(\s  of  the  reality, 
lvv'(Mi  the  ollicei'.s  and  myself,  who  were  all  furnished  with 
pocket  chronometers,  could  not  alwax's  Ix^ar  in  mind  at  which 
]);ut  of  \\iv  t\vent\'-four  lioui's  we  had  arrived  ;  and  tliere  wer(; 
several  of  the  men  who  declared,  and  I  l)eh(>ve  truly,  that  they 
nev(u'  kn(>w  ni<;ht  from  (hiy  durin<>;  the  whole  excursion. 
W'iieu  we  ros(>  in  th(>  evenin<>;,  we  ('ommenc(>d  our  day  1)\' 
})ray(M's  ;  aftei-  which  we  took  off  our  fur  sleepinjj,'  di'csses  and 
])ut  on  clothes  for  t i-avellin<>;,  the  foruKM'  ix'ini;'  unulv  of  camlet 
liiied  with  raccoon  skin,  and  the  latt(n"  of  sti'onji;  blue  cloth. 
We  made  a  point  ahways  of  ])uttin.u;  on  the  sam(>  stockin<z;s  and 
h(j(jts  for  ti'a\'ell!n,ii;  in,  wiiethei'  they  had  keen  dried  (hu'in<>; 
the  day  or  not,  ;uid  f  believe  it  Vi'as  only  in  five  or  six  instances 
a1  ihe  mo-^t  that  lh(>y  wer(>  not  eithei'  still  wet  or  hard  fro/en. 
d'liis  indeed  was  of  no  coiise(iuence,  beyond  tlie  discomfort  of 
fii'st  ]>uttinji;  tli(-m  on  in  tliis  state,  as  they  W(M-(^  siu'c  to  he 
1  i'.o!'ou,uh!\'  wet  ill  a  (|uai'((M' of  an  houi' after  comnKMicinu;  our 
journey  ;  wliil(\  on  tlie  otlier  liand,  it  was  of  \-ilal  imp()rtanc(> 
to  keep  (h'y  thinuv;  foi'  sleep^inii,'  iii.  ])ein_i2;  'ri^j^ed'  for  ti'a vei- 
ling',, w<'  breald'a.sted  ujx)!)  warm  cocoa  and  biscuit,  and 
aftei'  stowinir  t!ie  thiii'.i's  in  !)()a,ls.  and  on  the  skillies,  so  as  to 
s!'cur<'  ihem  as  much  as  possii)ie  fi'om  the  wet,  we  set  off  on 
our  day'>  journey  and  usually  1ra\'elled  foui',  fi\'e,  or  s(>ven. 
liour-;,  ;iccf irdiii'i,-  to  circum-'1  auces." 

4'iiey  maile  \'e:'y  slow  ])i'oL!;re--s  in  sp/ite  of  their  strenuous 
exc!'!  io!i-,  o\\  ini':  1o  tiie  floes  hei'ii;'  small,  exce(N!iuid\"  rouu'li, 
;i!!il  iiucr:--ec1  ed  by  lane-;  of  watei'  which  could  not  be  ci'o<-ihI 
v.'!lhi)u1  unloadii'U'  ihe  bo;;1s.  i\a/m  added  to  iheir  divcom- 
\'>;\  ''aiHiie^'  1  lie  ice  to  !'■, irm  into  numbe!-k><s  irre^ulai'  needle- 
kl-.''  cry-i;ib,  whii'li  prox'cd  \-ei-y  trying'  to  the  feet.  i'"le\'ati'd 
k  iimiti.ii'i-' -   ;)r"-cni  ed   1  kcm-eb/e-;,   o\'e!'   wiiich    it    was   almost 

i  ■  Ml  K  i--il    ':•   1(1    d  r;!\\^    ;  kc    ko'M  ,-. 

I'A'en    b\-   ikf   u1mo-t    ei'i'oi'ts  1  ke\'  could   not    make  an  ad- 


p.i7i'/.'i' .s  Foi'irrn  voyage  5") 

vo-ucc  of  inon^  thuii  ;i  iiiik^  ;ui(l  a  luiU'  or  two  miles  in  fi\'c  or 
six  hours.  Kcaliziu.ti-  the  unfavourahli^  coiulitious  for  rcachiiit^ 
the  pole,  owins^to  thv  advanced  season  of  lhe  y(>ar,  Parry  soon 
rc^incjuished  that  h.opc^  and  bent  liis  ener<;ies  to  r(>achin<f  at 
l)est  tht^  8;-)°  ])arallel,  if  ])ossil.)le.  But  now  to  his  utter  dis- 
eoura^'enient  it  was  found  tliat  tlie  drifting  of  the  snow  fields 
^^'as  gradually  e;u'r>ing  them  backward,  and  that,  in  spite  of 
every  attempt  to  advance,  th(\v  w(>i'e  daily  losing  ground. 

On  July  "io,  they  reached  their  farthest  north,  S2'^  45'. 
"At  the  extreme  ])oint  of  our  joui'iu^y,"  says  l\iny,  "t>ur  dis- 
ttuice  from  the  Jlecla  was  only  one  hundred  and  se\-enty-two 
miles  in  a  S.  \V.  direction.  To  acc()m])li>h  this  dis1anc(\  W(> 
liad  travei's(Ml,  by  our  r(>ckoniug,  two  hundred  and  ninety-two 
miles,  of  wliich  ai)out  one  lumdriMl  \\('re  jierfornuMl  by  water 
])reviously  to  our  (mtering  the  ice.  As  w(>  travellcMl  by  far  the 
greater  ])art  of  our  dist;uic(>  on  llu^  ice  thi'ee,  and  not  uirfre- 
(|uently  fi\'e.  times  ovt'r,  we  ma\'  safely  nudtiply  the  l(Migth  of 
the  !'oad  l)y  two  and  a  half  ;  so  that  our  whole  distance,  on  a 
A'er}'  modiM'ate  calculation,  amounled  to  five  luiiv.lred  ae.d 
eighty  ge()gra])hical,  or  six  hvmdriHl  ;nid  >ixty-eight  siatute 
miles,  Ining  iu>arly  ^ullicient  to  lun'e  reached  th.e  i)()le  in  a 
direct  line.  \'])  to  this  ])(Miod,  we  had  been  ])artirulaii\'  foi'- 
tun:!t(^  in  the  ]ii'es(M'\-a1  ion  of  om-  lu^alth." 

Owing  to  tlu'  increas(>d  softness  of  tlu^  ic(\  the  retui'ii  triji 
w;is  e\-(Mi  more  diflicul!  than  the  advance,  the  nwn  sinking 
1o  tlieir  llilglis  in  tlu^  ic(>  slush.  B\-  the  11th  of  August  th(> 
jo\'fu!  -ound  of  the  siu'f  bireaking  again>1  the  mai'gin  of  th(^ 
ice  w;!<  h.eai'd,  ;ind  later  th'c  lK)ats  wei'e  launch(>d  into  o]ieu 
w;iter,  and  in  another  ten  d;tys  th(\\'  rejointMl  the  Ilccbt.  and 
soon  afterward  sai!e(l  for  I'Jigiand. 

.Pan'y's  remai'!-.:ab!(>  vo\'ages.  besides  r(>;i])ing  a  lich  liarNcst 
of  sciee.liiic  data,  liad  jiroN^ed  th.e  navig;ibihly  of  l.anc:;st(M' 
Sound.  th(>  non-(^xistence  of  lh(^  ('rocker  Mountains,  and,  tlial 
Prince    Pegent    Pilel    opened    into    Parrow   Strait,    which    in 


.)() 


THE  ciiKAr  wiim:  jsoutu 


1uni  widened  into  Melville  Sound,  and  thence  opened  into  the 
j)ol:if  ocean.  lie  had  added  to  \\\v  map  the  ini])orlant 
ai-chipela,^()  or  Pany  Islands,  many  of  which  he  named  and 
exploi'ed;  jiad  outlined  the  sounds,  l)a\'s,  und  inlets  throu<;'h 
which  he  had  sailed;  discovei'ed  llecla  atid  l''ui'\'  Sti'ait  :  and 
demonstfated  the  imiii'act icahilit y  of  makin<i;  the  northwest 
passai;;e  l)y  way  of  Frozen  Strait. 


CHAPTER  V 

Xiiu-tcciitli  century,  continued:  Scor(^sl)y  and  C'lavcring.  —  I^or- 
mcv  visited  Jan  Alayen  Island  in  IS  17,  l;it(n'  visited  east  coast 
of  Cireeiiland,  discovered  Scoresby  Sound.  —  In  ls2\.  Captain 
Lyon  sur\-(>y(>d  Melville  Peninsula.  — Adjoining  sti'aits  andsho]'(\s 
of  Arctic  America.  —  In  ]S2~),  ('aplain  IScecluy  in  the  Bhissatii 
sailed  througii  ]k>hring  Sti'ait  and  passed  l.)(>y()iid  ley  Cape. — 
Sur\'(ye(l  the  coast  as  fai'  as  Poiiu  J'arrow,  adding  12(')  niilcs  of 
new  shore.  —  Second  \-oyage  of  Captadn  John  Ko^-s.  -  rndei'taken 
in  1S2(). --■  Discovers  Hoothia.  —  A\'iiUerrd  in  IVlix  Hai'oor. — 
Discovery  of  Xortli  [Magnetic  Pol(C)y  ncplunv  of  ('aptain  John 
Ross.  —  ( 'onmiander  James  Clark  Poss.  — -  \'adiialile  oli>er\-alions. 

—  Sledgi>  joiu'neys  to  niaiidand.  —  Pour  yeai's  spent  in  the  Arc- 
tic. —  Pei'ihnis  retn>at.  — Safe  return.  —  Pand  jounuy  l>v  Captain 
Pack.  -The  Croat  Fish-Pack  JPver. -^  Point  Ogle. --Point 
Pic!iardi<iin.  -  -  Mack's  farthest  ]H)ini  was  (IS'  ].'■>'  ~u"  norlli  lati- 
tude. 04"  .")S'  1"  \vo>t  longitude.  Panil  jounu'ys  of  Sini])-on  and 
Deasc.  js.'Sl).  -  Drscciul  the  ^lackenzic  liivn'  to  the  sea.  —  Sur- 
ve\'ed  \ve>1  shoi'e  between  Petui'u  Pu>i'f  and  ( 'ajie  Jian'ow.  —  In 
IS.'!',*,  they  explored  >hor('s  of  \'ictoria  Land  as  fai'  as  ( 'apr  P.arry. 

—  Crossed  ('oi'onatioii  Culf.  -  -  Deseendeil  the  Coppcrniine.  — - 
Pea(Ped_  the  Polar  Sea.  —  ( )verl,and  joo.rncy  in  isjfi  by  Di'.  John 
Pae  eonfirin(.'(l  Ca'ptain  John  Ross's  statemenl  thai  ]^)OOtliia  was 
a  peninsula. 

Tni-;  iKuiu^s  of  Scoresby  and  ( 'lavoring  hold  theii'  own 
six^eial  interest  in  llio  long  list  of  heroes  of  the  noHii.  .V 
pi'aetieal  wliahannii.  of  an  iiitolligont  and  seientilie  fi'anie  of 
mind,  S"or(>sby,  as  early  as  ISOb,  liad  n(aiet  rated  to  wit  hiu  fi\"o 
liui\d!'ed  geograi)liieal  miles  oi'  tlio  Polo.  In  ISl  7  be  had  ma('o 
an  excursion  to  Jau  Mayen  Island,  and  lattu'  a.secaidod  Mitri' 

57 


r„s 


77//-;  cuKAT  wiiirK  .xoirrif 


Cape,  whose  suiiiinit  is  csliiiialrd  at  three  Ihousaiid  fe(^t 
uh()\-e  the  le\'(>l  of  Ihe  sea.  l)Ul  not  until  1(S22  (hd  his  (hs- 
(•o\-eries  reach  the  ,u'i'ea1est  iniportance.  In  this  year,  while 
i<eai'ehin<;'  Utv  hclter  fi>hin,i;'  iifounds,  he  fell  in  with  the  eastern 
coast  of  (li'cenland,  a  shore  almost  entirely  unknown,  (>x- 
ce])t  wliei'e  the  Dutch  colonies  of  Old  (ireenland  wei'e  su])- 
])()seil  io  ha\-e  heen  situated.  >kirtin,i>,-  this  bleak  and  barren 
coast.  Scores! )y  uanie(l  inlets,  l)a\'s,  and  (■a])es  as  he  dis- 
c()\'ered  lliem,  i>assin,i!;  .Jameson  Land  and  finally  r(>achini2; 
Hcoreshy  Sound. 

'I'lie  coa>1  of  .Jameson  Land  seemed  esjw'cially  hai  ile,  and 
e\-idences  of  I'ude  habitations  W(M'e  seen,  but  no  human  l)e- 
in,L;,s  discox'ei'eil.  l-'roceedin,a;  noiiliAVard,  still  fo!lo\\'in,u'  tlie 
coa--1-line,  he  wa^  soon  bes(>t  with  ice,  and  ihou^h  lie  named 
o1  hei'  p()inl>  oi'  land  and  inlets,  he  was  obliu,cd  to  relui'ii,  not 
lia\ini;-  I'un  across  the  \\'hales  which  it  was  liis  business  t(j 
secui'c. 

( iood  fortune,  howe\'er,  favoured  him,  foi"  on  the  bll  h  of 
Auuust  numel•ou-^  whales  aj)peared  round  the  ship;  three; 
AN'ei'c  .-secured,  a.nd  the  ship  now  "full-hshed"  could  make  a 
liapp\-  relui'n  to  Jjii'jand  after  a  most  successful  year. 

The  followiiu;-  season,  ('aplain  ( 'hiverin^',  comman<ler  of 
II.  AI.  S.  (irijxr,  conxcyed  u  ('apiain  Sabine  to  IlammerlesL 
in  Xoi'wax-,  wliei'c  Sabine  desii'cl  to  mai<e  certaiin  scientific 
ob<cr\'aliou<  on  the  com])ai'a1  i\'e  leni^th  of  the  ])eiidulum 
a-  a!Tec1(-d  by  ihe  j  jiiiicipic  of  a11 1'act  ion.  ()lher  noi'llici'U 
poinds  wep"  lo  lie  toiiclied  foi'  similar  purpos(\s,  mid  Spitz- 
bei-'.i'n  \\\\i\  llic-  ea-1  co;i-1  of  (  li't'(ailand  were  dolu'tialeii, 
thi'  I'iMi'r  piiim  iH'iii'r  r^'adied  cai'ly  in  Auun^t.  "  He  landed 
hi-  p:!--i'!i';e!'  ;iiii!  llie  ^(■ien1ific  apparaliis  on  1  wo  i>laiids 
d'-;  :i!'!ii';|  from  ilic  ea>iei'n  .-iioi'c  of  i  he  coiU  in(Mi1 ,  which  he 
caljfl  tlic  i'liciiiliim  i.-laii(!s,  ;ind  ^^[  which  ihe  oulermosl 
pniiil  i-  i!i;ii'kid  liy  ;i  Imld  i  ]( •.■|(  !l;i  lid  |-i-iiii':  1o  llic  hciL'.hl  of 
liiivc      ilioi;-;uii!      feci."       ("Ai'dic     .\.d\-enture,-,"'     Sar,L!,eut.j 


^IKLVILLK    J'ENINSrLA  T)*) 

Wliilc  waitin.y;  for  Captain  ?^abit\o,  ('lav(a'iu<i;  i'(H'0!iiioitr(Hl 
\\io  ('Oust,  au<l  was  more'  foi'tuuatc  than  Scorrs'hy  in  runnino; 
across  some  of  the  natLV(\s,  who  closely  restful )le( I  tiu)s(> 
tlescrilxnl  by  P;iiTy.  Iiy  the  be<i;inniii<i;  of  September,  Sabine 
having  completed  liis  observations,  the  (iripvr  made  her  way, 
not  without  dijiiculty  and  delays,  bj^  Avay  of  Drontheim, 
back  to  England. 

In  1S21,  Ca])tain  Lyon,  connnanding  the  (iri])('i\  was  given 
th.e  lask  of  the  surv(\v  of  Melville  P(>ninsiil;i,  adjoining  straits, 
and  tlu^  sliori'  of  Arctic  .Vmerica.  OvcM'laden  and  unsc-a- 
worlhy,  tlu^  ( in' per  was  totally  inifit  for  such  an  (^xpc^dilion, 
and  u])on  rc^aching  Ivoe  WcUhjuu^,  she  was  struck  by  a  gak^ 
wliich  threatened  the  desti'uction  of  both  the  shi])  and  crew. 
Aft(a-  being  battered  ai'ound  at  th(^  nua'cy  of  tlu^  storm  for 
three  days  and  niglits,  in  which  connnander  and  ci'ew  had 
taken  no  I'cst  or  sKhm),  slu^  was  finally  brouglit  to  ai\chor  in  a 
sliallow  bay,  latca-  d(\-;ignated  as  (.lod's  ?\I(a'cy.  IIcM'e  she  was 
still  in  innnin(Mit  danger  of  b(nng  groundcnl,  and  thei'e  secaned 
little  ho])e  of  iier  surviving  ihe  high  s("as  then  running.  The 
crew  wer(^  ordei'cxl  to  i)re])a,r(^  for  the  worst,  and  to  this  (aul 
each  man  was  cDiuniandcMl  to  iput  on  his  w:irmer  clothing. 
Of  this  sc(au\,  Captain   Lyon  writ(\s  :  — 

"E;i('h,  therei'oi'o,  brouglit  his  bag  on  (l(>ck  and  dr(^ss(>(l 
himself,  and  in  the  fine  athletic  foi'ms  wh.ich  stood  (^x])()S(m1 
before  me.  1  did  not  s(H'  one  musck^  (juiver.  nor  the  slight(>st 
sign  of  alarm.  Pi'ayers  wer(>  I'ead.  and  th(\v  tlaai  all  sat 
dov>m  in  gi'oups,  sheltercMl  from  the  wash  of  the  sea  l)y  what- 
ever ttie\-  could  I'lwd.  and  sonu^  (>nd(\ivored  to  ob-tain  a  little 
sleep.  rS(>\-er.  iK'i'ha])s.  was  witnessed  a  line!'  scen(>  tlian 
on  the  deck  of  m\-  little  shi]),  wiien  all  li{)])e  of  life  had  left 
us.  Noble  a^  tlie  character  of  t\\v  iJritisli  s:i:lo!-  is  always 
allowed  to  be-  in  cases  of  dangta',  >"et  I  did  not  b(^lieve  it  to  lie 
pos-ible  that  ;imong  fort\'-one  ])(S'soiis,  not  one  }\>p!niiig 
word   should    hav(>   becai   uttca'cd.      Each   was   at    peacc^   with 


i;o 


77//;  i:i:r:.\r   wiiitk  yoirrii 


\'.\<  iifiuhl-i)!'  uikI  .ill  the  w'oi'ld  ;  mid  I  am  finiil\'  ])cr.-ua(l(Ml 
liial  ihc  iv.^i^iiaTioii  which  w'a-  ihcu  >h()Wii  lo  the  will  of  the 
Ahiiiiiin y.  wa-  ihc  mean-  of  ohlainiii^  Hi-  mercy.  (i()(l  wa- 
mcrcii'ul   li)   u>,    ami  the   liilc.    almcot    mirafailou-ly.    h41    ikj 

\i  )\vrv." 

A-  -(Kill  as  the  weather  coiiililions  ])ermilte(l.  they  ai- 
lempied  lo  |)r()C<'e(l  up  Mels'ihe  ( 'haiiliel,  hul  aiiolhei'  -toi'lii 
•.  )\-^'!'t(i(  il:  ihem.  ami,  after  con-uh  imi,' wit  h  his  odicers,  it  was 
decided  It)  luri!  the  crippled  ship   for  iiome, 

Anolher  expe<liiii)ii  iiiat  set  out  ahout  this  time  flS2.")) 
w;i-  commanded  hy  ('aptain  He(-che\'.  The  lilnsstini  was 
ilirecied  lo  round  <  'a])e  ilorii  and  emer  the  .Vrclic  1)\'  Wa\'  of 
liehrinu'  Sirail.  In  descridinu'  this  oreat  u'alewa}'  1o  the 
noi'ih,    ('ai)lain    lieechey   write-: 

"  W'e  a])!)roached  die  strait  \vhich  sei)arate<  the  two  u'reat 
coiiiinem-  of  A-ia  and  America,  on  one  of  iho-e  lieautifnl 
-dli  nil;:!!!-  well  known  1o  all  who  ]ia\'e  \-i-iied  the  Arctic 
reL;ion-.  when  the  -ky  i-  without  a  cloud,  and  when  the  niid- 
n;::hl  -un.  -eiircejy  hi-  own  iliametei'  helow  the  hoi'izoii, 
iim;e-  wiiii  a  kriiilit   hue  all  the  norlhein  circle. 

"')iir  -hip.  propelled  !iy  an  increa-iii,u'  hreeze,  uliijed 
rapidlx'  alonu'  a  -mooth  .-ea.  -tarlinu.'  from  her  i)alh  Hock-  of 
a'lUj'ic  hird-.  who-e  (liiiht.  in  the  dt'Cp  -ilence  of  the  -ceiie, 
CO!. Id  1,..  trace(l  1  ly  i!ie  ear  to  a  u'feat   di-lalice." 

To'  t  !i"  norl  tl  of  C  'ape  Prince  of  Wale-.  1  hey  were  xd-ited  liy 
li-ldnno-   widi   \\"hom  thi^y   haflereil    and    had    friendly  inter- 

e.ii!-.-.  !',\.      the     -JlM      of     July.     tl;e     -hil)     reached      Kol /el  Ule 

""o  iipl.   mim!  :,\U'V  exploriiio-  a   deep  inlet    oil   it-  lioHheni   -iioiv, 

whieli  :i:ey  named  Ilotliam  Inlet,  they  I'ominueil  their 
co.i'--  'o  (■h-!mi--o  I-land.  wi:'-."''  they  hopeil  to  idll  in  willi 
,'-ii'  .1:::!!  fVankiiii'-  exDedit  ion.  t  hell  ill  the  fiekl.  Sikm  iii'i  1  he 
e.i--'    ■  ■;.-   ( '.Mpe   'rkoni-i>n.    I'oint    Hope,    ('ape    I.l-liurn.   < 'ape 

Im:!';,-!'  .  an.i  k-y  ('-pe.  they  ke-aU  to  -ee  exdleia-e-  of  li;e 
'U  i  >:'.  ,■,(■'     ,  i;'  \'/ii,i  .;■.  and   r;il  her  1  hall   I'i-k   keiliii;  fro/eii  in.  1  key 


noss    SEcoxi)    I'ovAci-: 


Gl 


From  ]ivv('  Captain  BccH'hcy  (IcspalcluMl  the  l)ai\u;('  in 
char.iic  of  his  li(nit(Miants  to  survey  the  eoast.  This  they  suc- 
("cssi'ully  accouiphshcd  as  far  as  Point  I^arrow,  a  ciistanco 
of  one  hun(h'(Ml  and  twenty-six  niil(\s  of  new  sh()r(\ 

The  hist  of  August,  1S27,  found  the  Jilnssoin  ngam  at 
Clianiisso  Ishuid.  where  inlereourse  was  renewed  willi  the 
i'^skinios.  V)}'  ()eto]>er,  no  news  havin.ii;  Ix'cn  ree(U\'ed  of 
Frankhn,  ('a])tain  ]-)(M'ehey  rehielanlly  shaped  his  liomev.'ard 
course.  \ot  until  th(^  foUowin,^;  >'(~ai',  October  12,  1S2S,  did 
he  arri\'e  in  I'highuid,  liitvY  an  absence  of  three  years  and  a 
hah'. 

We  now  r(^turn  to  ("ai)tain  John  Hoss,  \v]ios(^  ])r()fessi()nal 
reputation  had  suffered  for  ten  years,  under  the  cloud  of  liis 
c^u'ly  faihn(\  Evov  anxious  to  I'eti'ieve  his  unfortunate  mis- 
takes, he  had  in  vain  imi)h)r(Ml  tlie  l^ritish  A(hniralty  to  send 
liim  once  moi-e  to  the  Arctic.  rn(kunit(Ml  by  tlieii'  refu-:il 
and  iii(hl'f(M'encc,  he  ])ei-s(>\-cred  in  his  determiiiation,  and  at 
last  found  a  liberal  supjjorter  in  I'Vlix  l^ooth,  a  rich  disti'lei', 
who  conli'ibuTed  se\-enteen  thousand  pounds  towsu'd  the  ])ro- 
])osed  expetliiiou.  Captain  Ro-^s  :iddin_<>,'  his  own  (^ntire  fortune, 
which  was  jibout  thre(>  thous:uid  ])oun(ls  more. 

A  small  Tvivei'pool  steamei-  called  the  Viclorij,  on(-  hundiXMl 
ami  fifty  ton^,  was  purchased  and  prox'isioned  for  thr(M>  yc;irs. 
Accompanyinii;  ('ai)tain  Ross,  as  second  in  command,  was 
his  nephew.  .James  Ross,  who  had  -mailed  wii  h  him  oi)  tlie  first, 
\'oyat!,("  to  tli(^  Arctic,  and  had  also  acc()m))anied  Parry  (a;  all 
his  \-oyati-(>s.  Scltiiiu;  -ail  in  May,  ls2!),  with  the  a\'owed 
object  of  makimr.  if  po--ib!c.  tlu-  Xorth\vc<t  Pa~sa,u'e  by  some 
openiii'i:  leadiiiL!,'  oiit  of  Ive2,'c!i1  lidet,  ttiey  neared  the  D'sn- 
ish  seltlemcMit  of  Ilolsteinbofu',  in  ('o'ceiiland,  to\\'ai-d  the  !a-t 
ot' .Inly,  whci'e  1  he\' i'(-cei\-ed  ;i  mo-^t  hospit.able  welcome  li.im 
the  ^vA-iM'iioi'.  Their  >1ore-;  wen-  i'cp'eni^hed  anil  ciM-tain 
obniM'  addition^  made,  inclndin'i  six  l^vkiir.o  (lo<.i,'s,  a  piv-eiit 
fi'oni  th(>  tiovemor.     S:ii!in,Li;  noilhward,  the\' si<i;lited  tlie  im- 


rrl 


TIIK   a  UK  AT    WIIITK   y()llTIT 


])().-in<:'  mountains  of  Di-c(^  I.-lan<l,  ])urTially  covci'od  with 
-now,  ami  latci'.  flare  I>lanil,  wliich  llicy  found  clcai'.  a])- 
])i'oac!iini!:  latitude  74^.  where  the  II(cla  and  Fur;/  had  been 
iee-lt()und  in  l^'ih  Xo  ice  wtiatever  ^va>  encouriTereth  Xot 
wiiliout  emotion,  ("ajjlain  l{o--  entered  Lanca-Ter  Soundi, 
tlie  >eciic  (if  hi-  eari\'  lilu'.ider.  Now  he  h)und  seai'cely  any 
trare  oi  ie".  and  he  -ailed  thi'ouii'h  the  middle  of  it,  ])a>- in^■,  on 
t!ie  lOtli  eif  Auiru-1,  ('a])e  York,  after  which  the  land  tui'us 
southwai'd  and.  \\'ith  the  opno-ite  coa>t  of  X'orth  Somer>et 
('I'oothia',  foi-m-  the  hroadi  openinir  of  Prince  Pu^uvnt  Inlet. 
Some  day,-  later  tliey  |)a<-ed  the  -cene  (jf  the  Fiir;fs  wreck. 
ddiey  examined  tiie  snot,  and  found  that  thouuii  the  hull  had 
entirely  di-ai)i)cared.  the  tcnt^  and  ])ole<  were  still  standin!!. 
The  cani-ter-  of  ])re-erved  i")i'o\'i-ion-  were  in  jierfect  condition, 
aho  ih"  wine,  -utiar,  hi-ead.  (lour.  and.  cocoa,  and,  after  re- 
Ijleni-hui'i  their  own  ^tort'.-.  they  left  a  la.rLie  ([Uantiiy  hehind. 
P.y  the  middle  of  Auu'U-t  tliey  had  cro<-e(l  the  mouth  of 
C'!-c--well  P)ay  and  reacheil  ('a])!'  Pai'ry.  the  fai'the<1  ])oint 
seen  t  )y  Parry  on  hi<  previou-  voyaii'e,  hut  here  they  found 
difhcu'iy  in  n;i\';2:atinii\  owinti'  to  the  comi)a-s  heinu'  u-ele-s  hy 
]>roximity  to  the  .Xhcjuetic  J'ole.  p-c  condltic^ns  al.-o  hecame 
alai'miu'j.'  and  ohiiaei!  them  to  make  fa-t  to  the  driftiim'  'ioc-, 
■which  -omci  iiMi'-  carried  them  forward,  hut  more  often  hack- 
^\■;ll■d.  -1)  PirO  cnn-i' lera!  ile  time  ;md  di-talicc  \va-  lo-l  in  thi- 
maiiiiei'.  In  the  U-w  ^\'l■ek<  reniaininu".  heforc  i!ic  winter 
cold  !;cld  1  hem  icc-1  lounij,  (  'apt ain  lio-<  explored  -ome  three 
hutuh'ed  mijc^  of  coa-t  land.  Lioinii;  a-  far  a-  rJi'entwcIl  Pay. 
P:ii';y  mile-  h.'VMMd  ('aoc  Parrvx  Here  ('aptain  Po—  w^nt 
a-Pc'.-  and  fdi'miniy  1(lo]^  po--e--ion  in  the  kinu'"-  name,  c.all- 

\\":\\' ''v\^''j:    m    I'eiix    IlaiPor.   the    ])arty  had   -e\-erai   occa- 
-ie'i--    ;'.  >>■    iiio  ■'■ri  i'n'-e    w'' '/>  I     itic    iP !-;  i  1 11  o- .    fi'oin    \\'''.'ni    tiie\- 


LlaVi'-rcM      O  Ml 

of  1  he  i-i  liini  r 


'■■    in'i  ii'ma'  II  >]\    re^a  r^  iuili:    i  !ie    u'  ^  ''Sva]  Miy 
ni-   leii  ('aot.ain    po.--   to  ,-end  ou^    -"Via'al 


JAMKS    CLAllK    BOSS  G-] 

expeditions,  hoping  to  establish  tlie  ]:)ossibilit3'  of  a  passage 
tlirough  to  the  W(\st,  when  th(^  siunnun-  sliould  again  free 
tlieir  ships,  hut  after  eareful  inspcK-tion  it  was  concluded  that 
their  only  hope  was  to  th(^  north.  Though  the  observations 
were  made  from  several  distiuit  points,  and  much  valuabh^ 
iuf(jrmation  collected,  the  months  rolled  by  in  h(j])eless  suc- 
cession, with  no  apparent  prospect  of  leaving  this  desolat(^ 
spot. 

Xot  until  the  ITtli  of  September  were  th(^  ships  fr(H\,  and 
even  then  they  ad\'anced  only  threc^  miles  to  find  tluMUscdves 
blocked  once  more,  and  a  few  days  later  liopelessly  frozen  in 
for  anotlua'  dreary  winter.  Xot  until  A])i'il,  IS.'^O,  wen^  any 
excursions  attenq^ted,  and  in  one  of  these  Commander 
James  (dark  Pioss  had  the  good  fortune^  to  discover-  tlie 
North  Alagnetic  Pole  in  latitude  70°  o'  17",  longitude  Of/ 
46'  45"  \V. 

"Tlu^  ])lace  of  the  observatory,"  he  writ(~-s,  '"'was  as  near 
to  the  Magnetic  Pole  as  the  limited  means  which  I  possess(Ml 
enabled  me  to  detca'mine.  The  amount  of  the  di]),  as  indi- 
cated l)y  m\-  di])])ing-n(MMll(\  was  80°  o!)',  being  thus  witliin 
one  mimite  (jf  the  vertical  :  while  the  ])i'oximit}'  at  least  of 
this  ])ole,  if  n(jt  its  actual  existence  where  W(^  st(x)d,  was  fur- 
ther confii'ined  by  the  action,  or  rather  by  th(>  total  inactifjn, 
of  tlie  several  horizontal  ncM-dles  then  in  my  ])0>se>si(jn." 

"As  soon."  continues  ('onnnander  Pioss,  ""as  I  had  satis- 
fied my  own  mind  ()nth(>  subject,  I  made  known  to  the  i:)aity 
this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  labors:  audit  was  then  that, 
amidst  nnitual  congratulations,  we  fixed  the  I^jriti-^h  flag  on  the 
<]V)i.  and  t(j()k  ])oss(>s-ion  of  the  North  ^Magnetic  Pole  and  its 
adjoining  territoi'}' in  tlie  name  of  (Ireat  Piitain  and  Iving 
^\'illiam  I\".  We  had  abuiKhmce  of  materials  foi'  ])uild/i!ig 
in  th(>  fragments  of  limestout^  that  covered  the  beach,  and  we 
tliei'efoi-e  erecte(l  a  caii'n  of  -ome  magnitude,  under  wiiich  \\'e 
bui'ieit  a  cani.-ter  C(jntaining  a  record  of  the  iiit ei'e-ting  fact, 


riii:  (.iiKAT  wiirrr.  soirni 


finiy  rfurcliiiiii  th;it  \vc  had  not  the  means  ot  const ruc'tinu'  a 
])yraiiiiil  ol'  more  iniporlancc.  and  of  strcn^u'th  sufticicnt  to 
\\-illi-tand  llic  a>>aulls  of  time  and  liic  lv-kinio>.  Had  it 
liii  11  ;i  uyi'aniid  a-  lai'U'c  a-^  iha,  of  ('hcop,-.  I  am  not  (jnitc 
>\\vc  liiat  it  Would  luiA'c  done  more  than  sati-fy  our  aml)i- 
lion  undicr  ih'-  I'ccjin,:!.-  of  thai   cxcitinu'  da\'."" 

The  .-U'Tccdinti-  .-ummcr  \\'a->  liardly  moi'c  cncom'a.uinti 
llian  tilt'  i)rc\-iou<  one.  Not  until  thr  la>t  week  in  Auuu-l 
Were  thc\'  .-ucrc><ful  ill  I'l-achiuu'  o])('n  watci'  hy  the  labo- 
I'iou-  (■iVort  of  \var])in<i  and  towiuLi'.  and.  after  (•ncountej-inL!; 
,Uale<  and  ice-floe-,  they  wei-r  au'aili  fa-1  in  ihe  ice  1  ly  the  27lii 
of  Seijlem!  )er.  after  a  di-coui'a,ii'in,U'  na\'i,uat  ion  of  onl\'  four 
mile-;.' 

The  ihouuhl  of  a  thii'd  winter  in  ihe  drea!'\'  Ai'ctic  had 
a  nio-1  di-!ieail''nimi.'  etVeet  upoii  ihe  ci'cw.  Idif-ir  oiil\'  hojie 
of  uhimalely  extricalinii'  them-eU'es  from  iheir  forlorn  -itu- 
ation  w;i>  in  ahandoiiinti'  the  I  ictnyij.  lakinu  lo  iheir  hoal-. 
and  maldiUii'  iheir  laiioriou-  way  !o  the  wreck  of  ihe  F''rii. 
\\'h(-re. -upplyinu'  tluMii-elx'e-  with  a  fi'e-h  -lock  of  pro\u-ion-. 
tlicy  could  pu-h  on  1o  Davi-  Strait,  in  the  hope  of  hein^u: 
l)ic!<cd  up  !  ly  a  ])a--i;m'  whale--hi]).  ddie  U'eneral  health  of 
ihc  iii^-n  w;i~  -howinu'  a  decline;  -lau'X'y  -howeil  it-cif  a-  early 
a-   \o\-cmhcr  of  liii-  tryimi  ye;ii'. 

I'.\'  Api'il  2:i.  \"^'.'>'2.  the  fir-t  pai'l  of  lhe  ex])e(rnion  -tarted 
oM  liii-  wi'ari-iimc  journey  of  -duie  tluvc  hundivd  mile-  to 
l-'ury  I'i'.'ich.  nwiic.:'  to  the  weio'lit  of  the  load-,  comhined 
wiiii  -now-d, I'it'i  -  and  ice  harrier-,  it  wa-  nece--a!'y  io  lid  hack 
a!id  hit'Ward  ;iiid  cM\-erllie  -aiii"  Lii-ound  -e\-.'ral  time-:  ihu- 
ad"i  ;i  iiiMiith  t'ii"y  iiad  ti';i\-e|led  ihl'ee  hundred  and  tweiily- 
niip'  uiiii'-  ill  ihi-  ii-yiim  and  cii'cuiiou-  m.-umei'  to  uaiu  ihii'ty 
iii  ;)  'Wy^'r]  line. 

<  )!i  'P..  ■2[\\\i  of  \h'iy.  hn:d  leaX'e  Wa-  taken  of  the  \','rlnri/. 
I'-r  ci.ii'U"-  n;iil'-d  Ui  th'-  m;i-i,;i  p.-.n  iu'.^-  ^l.-i--  d;riink  in  her 
l.iin^-ir,   ;iiid   lhe   hr;i\-f  old   -hiplefi    1(1  her.Vi'ciic   idmline--. 


Till-:   lurrnKA'/' 


05 


.\()1  uiiiil  ihc  fii-<t  of  July  did  the  whole  crcnv  r(\'U'h  T^iry 
rjcarli,  alter  inci'edihle  ohslacles  had  been  eucouutered  and 
()\'e!Tome.  the  >lo\\'  and  lal)oi'ious  advance  made  more  ai'du- 
(lU^  hy  1  he  hea\'y  loads  lhey  carried. 

InnnediaTel}',  howevei'.  they  s(>t  1o  work  and  reai'c^l  a 
canx'as  shelter,  which  they  called  Somerset  House.  Tlie 
follo\\'in<i-  month  was  sjx'ut  in  fitting  out  their  boats.  An 
DjX'n  sea  now  i2,'a\'e  them  hope  of  reachin.ii.  throujih  l^arrow 
Strait,  to  Hailin  Hay.  Iceberu's  and  u'ales  ])rov(Ml  most  dis- 
astrous to  their  hojx's  an<l.  ;d'tei'  makiiui  a  herijic  attimiiit, 
th(\\'  found  it  necessaiy  to  return  to  T'ury  Beach  and  s])end 
their  h)uith  winter  in  the  Arctic. 

The  winter  i)i'o\'ed  exciM'dingly  severe,  and  thf^r  ('an^'as 
shelter  quite  inadequate  to  keei)inu;  out  the  c(dd.  However, 
mattei'-  v\'ere  im])roved  by  a  thick  sjiow  wall.  Sickness,  in 
the  dr(vide(l  form  (jf  scurvy,  caused  imich  imeasiness,  and  in 
iM-bruary,  Ib'-V-^.  oik^  of  tiLcii'  number  succumbed  t(j  the  disease. 
Theii-  ^ixuation  had  now  become  alai'iniiifi',  for  if  the}'  were 
not  liberaleil  the  foUowin^ii'  .-ummer.  there  wa;^  little  chance 
oi  ai!\'  of  llieir  nUimber  sur\'ivin.u:  another  year. 

A^  ea.rly  in  ihe  season  a>  it  was  ])()ssib|e  to  travel,  they  set 
forih  on  then  life-and-de;ri h  st rui,!j.\idc-  for  safety.  Ixeduced  in 
St  !'en,L!,l  It.  many  of  the  men  bein,!i,'  sick,  the  laboi'ious  ])roc(\ss 
of  ad\'ancinii'  theii'  loads  was  e\-en  -lower  than  the  ])re- 
ced.ino-  year.  ]lowe\'er.  by  the  12lh  of  ,luly.  th.ey  all  I'eachecl 
llwii'  luiat  s'litioi!  ill  ])ait\-  l->ay.  \ot  until  .\u.u'u<t  1 -1  was 
a  lane  of  water  le.iiiinu'  nort!n\'nrd  di>co\'ei'ed.  and.  em!)arkin^ 
at  an  early  hour  i  he  !'oiio\-.iic.i- nioi'nin.u'.  they  ])ur>ue(l  theii' 
coiu'-f  w^itli  ri-iu'j;  -{Mrit<.  <hi  the  e\-eniue  of  t  h.e  bith.they 
\\'er;'  at  l  he  noi'l  hea-tern  point  of  Americ:i  with  the  opeii 
sea  ahead  of  tliem.  Icelier.'.':-  were  iiuniei'ous,  l)ui  i!ieii' 
couraii'e  wa-  u'ainiuii'  cx'ery  moment,  and  \\n-y  look  -inall 
noli'  of  .-U'-h  oli-t  ae!e<.  i'a->iim'  thromib  I'ari'ow  Sti'ait. 
the\-    made    that    da\'   -e\'ent\'-two    miles.      Deiaved    b\-    eon- 


Tilt:  (.iiLwr  wiirri-:  soirrii 


tr;ii'y  wind-,  t'lic}  (liJ  not  rcacli  Xavy  Ijuard  Iiild  until  the 
2.V1I1,  wiicrc  t!i(-\'  liari)i)Uf(Ml  lor  llic  ni<i;lit. 

llai'iv'  tlic  t'()ll()\vin,!i.'  nioi'ninii',  they  were  al•ou-^('(l  from 
-Iccp  l.\'  \\:f  loolvoul  man  calling  '"a  ,-ail,"  hut  tlioULili  they 
made  c-v'ci'y  c'Vort  to  I'cacii  tliis  .-liij).  it  ])a.--cd.  thcni  hy  lui- 
ol)-cr\"rd.  At  ten  o'clock  they  siii'litcil  aiiollici'  \'c.-.-cl  ^\•}iich 
w'a-  occainicd.  Wy  hai'd  I'owlng  they  reached  her  and  foundi 
her  to  he  the  Isii'nHa  (if  Hull,  a  shi])  in  which  l{o>s  had  nuide 
his  fir>1  \-oy;m-c  to  tho-e  sea-.  Tlw  ca])tain  an.d  mate  could 
hardily  heJi(.\-('  their  eye<  when  ]{o-s  annoinice(l  that  he  and 
his  ])arty  wei'c  the  -ur\'i\'oi'>  of  the  Virfuri/.  which  had  heeu 
<ii\'en  u])  for  lo-t  more  than  two  year-  ])re\'iou-ly.  lioss  de-- 
scriht's  the  scene  on  luKird  that  followe(l  : -- 

"'Jdie  ludicrou-  -oon  to(ViC  the  ])lace  of  all  other  fef'ling- ; 
in  >uch  a  ci'owd,  and  .-uch  c(jnfu-ion,  all  >eriuu-'  thouirhi  was 
im])o-.-ihle,  wliile  the  new  huo\'anc\'  of  oui'  s])irit>  neuic  us 
aiiU!idantl\'  wiilinL!;  Xa  he  amu-ed  hiy  the  .-ccne  \\'i:ich  now 
oj)ened.  M\'ei'y  man  wa-  hunui'N'.  and  wa-  to  he  fed  :  all 
wei'c  raiiu'ed.  and  were  to  he  clothed  :  tiicre  was  not  (nie  t(.) 
wliom  wa-hinu'  \va-  not  indi.-])en-ahle  ;  nor  one  whom  his 
Ifcard  did  not  deiirix'e  of  all  lennaii  -emhlan.ce.  All.  r'ver\'- 
thiiiLi'.  t(;o.  wa-  li)  lie  done  at  once:  it  wa<  A\"a-hinLL'.  >ha\'Inar, 
dre-.-iiiL!'.  eatini:-.  ah  internhiiided  :  it  wa-  all  the  materials  of 
eaeh  himhl-d.  1 1  .llvI  h'^r.  wiiile  in  the  mid;-t  of  all  thei'e  wi^re 
iniei'niina^le  (jir -i  ii  m-  to  he  a-le-d  and,  an-wered  on  hoi  h 
-ide-  :    ;  he  ad'/ei!l  are-  of  1  lie   h  h  7' //■//.  o!  u'  own  e-eaj'e-.  the  pi  1 1  i- 


m.l.i.'id.    imd    t':e    new<  U"!  i  iel  i   Wa  -    niiW    folU'    \'e;!l>oli 


"Xi'ziii  ai  li-'mhi;  homulit  (piiei  and  -ii-in'i-  thoiiL:!:!-.  and 
I  I  i'U-1  i!!'re  \va-  !!(il  a  nian  amcni:'  u-  whe)  ihd  not  then  e,\- 
JM'e--.  wAei';-  ii  wa  -  (hje.  la-  Mi';iiilude  \i<y  tiial  iin(-r!)<i-ii  inn 
".'.'hie'-;  !.■!  1  [■ai-'-il  n-  a!I  frnm  a  d'  -nair  whie!;  nnne  maid  n^w 
fiiriie;,  :aid  h;id  !c'(,i;-ht  e-  fi'nm  ih-  \-.i-y  hnrd.'i'-  i,f  a  nm-t 
di-i-ee  ar:tee,  1m  lif--  and  friead-  and  eieiiiz:): 'nii.  Lniiu:  ;ie- 
eu-i"i;p    i,    ii(i\\-c\"fr.  til  a   eold   ht -d  i  ui   the  hard   -nww  oi'  tlie 


LA XI)    ■JOrRNEV    OF    (AI'TAlX    HACK  6( 

bare  rocks,  {(^w  could  sleep  amid  the  comfort  (jf  our  new 
accouuuodations.  1  \\'a>  m\'seli'  compelled  to  leave  the  Ijed 
which  had  been  kiudl\'  assiiiiied  me,  and  take  my  abode  in 
a  chair  for  the  nitiht,  nor  did  it  fare  much  better  with  the 
re<t.  It  was  foi'  time  to  reconcile  us  to  this  sudden  and 
violent  cluuij::e,  to  break  through  what  had  l)ecome  liabit,  and 
inui-e  u>  once  more  io  the  usa<i('s  of  our  h)rmer  days." 

After  {i\-e  yeaiv  iu  the  Ai'ctic,  Captain  Iloss  and  liis  crew 
were  h(Jme^\•al■d  bound,  carrying  witii  th(-m  a  record  un- 
j)recedeu''c(l  in  Arctic  Ihstory.  Boothia  Felix  had  \)C(-\\ 
di.-cov('re(l:  tiie  connecting  isthmus  had  been  crosse(l  \o  the 
mainland  of  Aiuerica  and  ex])lorati(jns  made-  in  the  dircH'- 
tinn  of  bi-anklin  Pa>sage,  A'ictoria  Strait,  and  King  AVilliani 
Sound;  the  .Auignetic  P(jle  liad  been  located;  and  a  series  of 
most  valual)le  observa.ti(jns  kept  during  tlie  entire  period. 

Previous  To  his  ai'rival  iu  Eudand.  tlie  pr(donged  aljsenco 
of  Ca])taiu  Pioss  had  cau-e(l  gi'cat  anxi(-ty  t(.)  his  coimtrymen, 
and,  although  liis  ex])e(liti(.»n  had  been  a  ])rivate  affair  in  no 
vray  comiecled  witli  the  Adnhi-alty,  the  goverument  never- 
tliele>s  felt  il  to  be  a  national  concern  tliat  his  fate  and  that 
of  tlu'  ci-ew  should  b(>  ascertained  if  ])(jssil)le. 

Sul)-ci'i])tions  werr^  I'aised  to  ])i'omote  a  relief  expedition, 
liberal!}'  add'-d  to  from  ihe  ]:iublic  trea>ury.  and  an  expedition 
fittcil  out  in  charge  of  (  'a])taiu  Ihick.  who  had  voluntt.^ei'ed  his 
sei'viees.  accom])a!rie!l  by  the  surgeon  an.d  naluralist,  Dr. 
Pvichard  Kin;.':.  A\"nh  thi'ee  men,  th(>y  left  Li\'ei'])()ol.  Fel)- 
ruai'y  17,  \S.\'.].  on  a  ]")acke1-shij)  boun  !  foi'  X(■^\■  \ork,  where 
tliev  l;md(-d  aftei'  a  rouu'li  voyage  of  ll,ii1y-fi\'f'  days.  F''om 
X(•^\■  York  lhey  went  to  iMonii-eal,  where  lhey  -ecure<l  iour 
more  vohnslecrs  from  the  IJoyal  Arl  iller\' Tui'ijs  and  some 
olher  a>>i-1anls.  and  embarla'd  on  The  S1 .  ba^vrence  in  lW(j 
cano(<.  ?dakin'i.'  a  bri"f  .-tot)  a.1  Sank  Ste.  Marie-,  for  the 
])uri)o-e  of  ])n.rcjia>iim'  a  lliii'd  canoe,  bae}'  direct(>d  their 
course  to  the  noithein  sh(M'(,'s  of  bake  Su|)erior. 


(')8 


THE  (;iiKAT  wiriTi-:  .vo/.-yv/ 


On  :\ray  20,  Ihcy  ;irriv(Ml  ;it  Fort  ^\■illi:ull.  V^y  1lic  fifst 
w(H'k  in  June,  liic  canoes  reached  Foil  Alexaiidej'  at  llie 
soulhei'n  ext  I'einily  of  Lake  V\'iiuiij)(\a;.  ('oa^linii;  this  lak(\, 
Caplain  i'ack  made  for  Norway  House,  where  he  scnaired  liis 
fuH  coni])lenieiil  of  nu^n,  ei!i,hleen  hi  ah,  and  lhey  slai'ted  hi 
]i\\s\\  spirils  for  T'ort  Picsohation,  ihe  easlern  shoi'e  of  the 
(ireat  Shi\'e  Lake.  Idie  chief  annoyance  exiierienced  on 
this  lou!),'  cano(>  trip  was  the  torment  from  myriads  of  sand- 
fhes  and  mosciuitoes,  of  wliich  ('a])tain   IJack  writes:  — 

"How  can  I  ])ossii)ly  ,i;,ive  an  idea,  of  the  torment  we  eii- 
(hiired  from  the  sand-fhes  ?  As  we  (h\'ed  in1o  the  confined 
and  siih'ocatiii.u'  chasms,  t!iey  rose  in  ch)uds,  acluaJly  dariv- 
eninii,'  thic  air;  to  see  or  to  speak  \vas  ('(juaHy  dhhcuh,  i'or 
t  he>'  I'ushed  at  ev(>ry  undeh'nded  part,  and  (ixe(I  their  poi.-^oii- 
ous  fani;,s  in  an  instant.  Our  faces  streamed  with  iiiooih  as 
if  leeches  had  l)e(>n  ap])he(h  ;uid  there  was  a  hurniiiii;  and. 
irril  at  iiiti,'  pain,  h)h()wed  hy  immeiliate  iidhimimit  ion.  and 
])ro(hicii!,t;'  .<;iddiness,  which  ahnost  (h'()\'e  us  mad,  and  caused 
us  to  moan  with  pain  and  ap)ny." 

.\ftei'  securinu;  aU  possilde  information  from  the  Iinhaiis 
and  olhei's,  relatix'e  to  the  course  of  the  iiorth(  rii  rix'ers  of 
which  he  wa<  in  searcli,  Captain  P)ack  dlx'ided  liis  parly. 
Lea\in,ii'  se\'era!  under  t  he  escort  of  Ah'.  ALd.i'od.  an  employee 
of  the  ILidson  I'ay  ( 'ompany.  he  proceeded  wiiii  h)ur  mi  n 
in  seai'cli  of  the  (Ireat  l'"i.-h  Lixcr,  hitei'  iiame(l  alter  iJac'v 
him-;'h'. 

Oil  Aii'j.u-^l  l-K  Oaptain  P.nck  l)ei!:aii  tiie  a^c(a)t  of  th.e  IIo;ir 
I'Vo>1  h!i\-er,  and  made  lii--  lahorioiis  way  lh''oU',:h  wcods, 
swamp-,  c:i-c;idr<.  ;iiid  r;ip!d>.  I'Veiii  the  ^-wminil  oi  :'■  lii^h 
hill,  l',  !''s  di-ci)\  ci'cd.  ;i  h";,u,  il'iii  l;i  k' '.  si  udd.cd  wi;h  l,d:!ud<, 
to  wliii'!:  !h'  ■'::i\-c  1  !ii'  r,;iiiic  nf  .\ylmer  Lake.  ;ifler  1  he  l.': 'X'l •rnor- 
U"iier;d  oi'  (  'mi.'id.-i  ;il  ihiit  liiii.'.  Sdiu"  of  hi^  men  were  de- 
sp;il  ■'■iii'd  1  o  i!i\-('--l  i;r:i1  (■  llii-  iMke.  ;:Md  hi  ihur  nh-eiice  r'ai'lv 
;ircidtMl -lly  di-.'n\cr;'d  ih"  --.i!irce  of  ll;^'  i'i\-i'r  which  they 
h;n  I    ;i-cciii  In  1.    in    S:iiid    I  !ili    i  ..-ike. 


LAyJ)    JornXhT    OF    (  APTAIX    HACK  GO 

"  I'oi'  this  occnslon,"  1h>  wi'itcs,  "1  hud  r('s(M'V(Hl  ;i  little 
^roii,  ami  need  hanily  sa\  with  what  cluM'ti'ulucss  it  was 
shared  ainoiii!;  the  ei-(n\',  whose  weleoiiu^  tidinti's  had  ViM'itied 
the  notion  oi'  Dr.  Pdeliardsou  and  niyseli',  and  thus  jjlaeed 
beyond  doui)t  the  exist(>nee  of  the  l'hleu-(>e-ehoh,  or  (!reat 
Fish  liivei'.'" 

Ah)vin,u-  on,  t  he\'  foinul  it  was  iinpossil)l(>  to  iiavij^at(^  ^lusk- 
Ox  Lake  in  their  iVail  canoes,  owina;  to  the  h)ret'  of  the  ra])ids. 
lie;ieliin,<2,'  ('linton  (!ol<leu  Ljd-:e,  they  met  witli  some  friendly 
Indians.  At  ('at  or  Aililh'i'y  Lalvc  the  canoes  wer(>  al)an- 
doned,  and  the  rt>st  of  their  I'eturn  journey  was  made  on  h)ot 
o\'(M'  jiorp's.  ra\'ines,  and  ])i'eei{)itous  rocl;s,  where  a  false 
step  would  ha\'(>  ])ro\'ed  hital. 

r])on  rc^achini;-  I'^ort  lvehanc(\  they  found  AFr.  AIcLeod 
had  eiT-cted  the  framewoi'k  of  tlu'ii'  winter  (juarters.  All 
hands  innuediately  tui'iied.  to,  and  by  tlie  -"^th  of  XovcmuIxm' 
the}'  exchatrti'ed  their  cold  tents  foi'  tlie  n.ioi'e  hos])itable  abod(\ 
Th.e  A\-inter  now  s(t  in  with,  unusual  se\-erit\'.  The  unfor- 
tunate Indians  of  thi>  localit\'  c;une  daily  to  the  canrp  and 
implored  food  foi'  ti'emseh'es  and  th(>ii'  stai'vin,ti  i'amilies. 
"  l''a)nine  witli  hei'  uaunt  ar.d  bony  arm,""  wiites  l-Jack,  "pur- 
suei!  them  at  ex'ery  tui'U,  witliered  tlieii'  enei'i:,'ies,  an^d  strewed 
them  lifele.-s  on  tjie  cold  bosom  of  tlie  >now. 

"it  was  impo<sii)l(e  to  lu'Voi'd,  r'^lief  to  all,  and  th(>  ])oor 
creatm-es  would  .-land  I'ound  while  tlie  in(Mi  were  takinji;  tlieir 
meal-,  wall  hiuu  e\-e!'y  mouihl'ul  with  \\\v  mo-t  pitiful,  ini])lor- 
inu;  look,  but  n(>\-er  ultei'in.u'  a  wor'i  ^.^i  comjilaint.  Seated 
I'ouiid  1  tie  lire,  t'ley  would,  ta!<e  luts  of  1  hei:-  reindeer  li'.arnuMits, 
ro;i-tm,u'  the-e  and  eau'ei'ly  dex'ourinii'  them.  A  h'W  hand- 
tub  of  iuoujdy  penunican  intended  foi'  the  doy,s,  was  recei\-ed 
with  uTatit  ud(\ 

■'<)fien."  adds  I'jick.  "did  I  .-Icu'e  my  o\\'n  ])late  \\'ith  the 
childi'en  W'ho-e  heli)Ie-<  -tale  and  ])ileou-  ci'ies  wei'(>  ])ecul- 
iai'ly    di-tres-mii':     conu>;i.s>ion    for    the    full-ui'own    ma\',    or 


TO 


THE   (.BEAT    WHITE  X OUT II 


may  nol,  bo  felt,  hut  that  heart  must  be  cased  in  steel  wliich  is 
insensible  to  the  cr}'  of  a  child  h)V  fo(^d.''" 

On  .lanuai'}'  17  the  theimometer  stood  at  ~(f  l)elow  zero. 
Of  this  exireme  cold  ( 'aptain  Jiack  writes  :  — 

"Such  indeed  was  tlu;  abstraction  of  heat,  that  with  eight 
larti'c  lo.ii's  of  dr\'  wood  on  the  fire,  1  c(juhl  nol  .get  the  ther- 
mometer ihglu'r  tiian  i'l'  below  zvio.  Ink  and  ])aint  fr(jze, 
the  sexlant  cases  and  boxes  (jf  seasoned  wood,  ])rincipally 
fir,  all  spht.  ddi(-  ,-kin  of  the  hands  b(,'came  dry,  ci'ackeih  and 
0])ened  into  m)>igtilly,  smartinir  gaslies,  A\'hich  Ave  wei'e 
obliged  to  anoint  with  grease.  On  (jne  occa~;ion  after  washing 
my  fac('  williin  tlirfc  feet  of  the  lire,  my  hair  wa-^  actually 
clotted  wi'ih  ice  before  I  had  lime  to  dr\'  it.'"' 

Had  it  not  bcf'i!  fo.v  the  liniel\'  a---islanc(^  o[  Akaitcho,  a 
fi'iendly  Indian  c'nef  who  had  ari'ivedi  with  a  >;i!)pl\'  of  men 
and  who  brought  biiciu  game,  t!:cir  suffering.--  mighl  ha\'e 
had  a  dis;!-!  rou-  endin-j;,  bu1  ihis  old  brave  expre.--ed  his  s(  uti- 
men1-  in  llic  noble  words  :  -  - 

'■The  great  chiel' 1  r;i--1>  us,  and  it  i- belle!' that  ten  lufliaiis 
peri-h  than  one  white  man  >houid  ])eri>h  tlii'ough  oui-  negli- 
g(-nee  and  bl'eaeh  of  fait  ki." 

A\  ith  tlie  appi'o.acli  of  spring,  ("a])lain  Vr.uAi  l)egan  ])re])ara- 
tion-  tor  hi-  iiit  (!!<  led  journey  to  1  h''  .-ea-coa-t .  but  on  Ajjri!  '!■) 
a  nu '--en '.■,(■]■  Mrrix'ed  with  tlie  wek'onie  new-  thai  0;,pt;!in 
\\()-<  anil  the  -!ir\-i\-()r.-  of  the  I'/V/e;'//  \\-ere  alix'e  ;nid  liad 
a!'r!\-"d  -a'Vly  in  Iki'd.uid.  l-ix1r;;ew  iVdm  ike  I'inii--  and 
][:  ri:l  I  wi-v  -kiiwn  ('.loiain  I'ack  to  e()!n'irni  the  new-. 


nnie--  ol    our   keaii-,    we  a--e 


;'  r 


and   hnmbh 


d:-  I,;  that  nieivilnl  !'re\!. 'enee,  M-ki(w,  in 
ua:a'  of  I'lc  Srript  lU'e,  hath  sai'k  '  Mine 
■:Mn.  a-   I   d.iil  -oine  time  iVoni  tlie  deep-  of 


o_;e!'e' !   i:  M  ( inr 

I'le     bcailtifiil      ! 

()\\  n  Will    [   1  )r;n 

the  -ea.'  Tlie  1  JKiU'.di';  -  of  -o  wijiidefful  ;i  iif(<ef\"at  ion  over- 
jMiww'i'd  I'ot-  a  'iiief-  t'  <■  eo!!iinoii  o'-furrenc"-  of  iifia  \\  e  had 
ju-t  -at  down  i  o  '  >iva!  i;i-l  :  bnt  our  ajjui-t  it  e  wa- uone,  and  1  he 


VICTORIA     LAND  71 

day  was  ])asse(l  in  a  fcvcn-ish  state  of  oxcitcincMit.  Seldom, 
indeed,  did  my  i'riend  Mi\  ]\in,u;  or  I  indnlii;e  in  a  libation,  l)iit 
on  This  jo\iul  occasion,  economy  was  forgotten,  a  treat  was 
givcni  to  the  mcMi,  and  for  oiu'sc^ves  the  social  sym])atliies 
were  qiuniclu^d  hy  a  ,i2;eiuM'ous  howl  of  |)nnch." 

The  four  months  sjx'nt  in  i\\v  remarkahhe  journ(\v  of  Cap- 
tain Back  and  his  nuai  to  the  Polar  Sea  are  one  continual 
rcH'ital  of  liaii'hi'eatltli  escapes  in  the  falls,  ra})ids,  and  cata- 
racts of  1lu>  Tlileu-ee-clioh,  and  of  \\\v  incrc^dihle  sufferinf^ 
and  liardship  l)ra\'ely  endru'ed  by  all  hands.  In  descril)ini^ 
on(>  of  tluar  narrow  esca])es,  where  tlu^  boat  was  obli,a,(Ml  to  be 
lightencHl  to  shoot  the  I'apids,  ('a.ptain  Ixicls.  vrrites  :  — 

"T  sto(Ml  on  a  hiti'h  rock,  with  an  anxious  li(>art,  fo  see  her 
run  it.  Away  they  went  with  tlu^  s])eed  of  an  ai'row,  and  in  a 
moment,  the  foam  and  rocks  hid  tliem  from  vicnv.  I  heard 
what  sounded  in  my  ear  like  a  wild  slu'iek  ;  I  followed  with  an 
aiiitalion  which  may  ])v  conc(nve(l,  autl  to  my  in(^x])ressible 
joy,  found  tlutt  the  slu'iek  was  lhe  trium])haut  v.iioo]!  of  the 
crew,  who  had  huuuMJ  safely  iti  a  snuiU  bay  below." 

On  the  2l)1h.  wliile  thrc^adin.sj;  th(>ir  course^  down  the  great 
i'i\'er.  they  saw  lunallands  to  the  north  \\iiich  gav(>  them  the 
assurance  tlini  the  coast  w;is  uot  far  disiant.  To  this  majestic 
))r()monto!'y,  I'ack  ga\'e  tlu^  nanu^  Mctoria. 

"This  tlieu.""  he  wi'ites.  "uiay  lu'  considia'CMJ  as  the  mouth 
of  the  Thleu-cc-clioh.  ^\iuch  afi(>r  a,  violeut  and  tortuous  coiu'se 
o;'  [\yv  hmidrcMl  :uid  ihirly  gcogi-ajjhical  mil(\s,  running  thi'ough 
an  ii'on  !'ibb(>d  couuti-y,  witliout  a  singh^  triH'  on  the  whole  line 
of  its  ba,nl-.s,  exi)anding  iu1o  five  bu'ge  lakes,  with  clear  hoi'izon 
mo-t  embai'rassing  to  tb.e  na\"iga1or,  and  broken  into  falls, 
cascades,  aud  ra])ids,  to  tiie  numbta'  of  (-ig]!t\'-t  iu'ee  in  the 
'wliol(\  ])ours  its  waltM'  into  the  Polar  Sea,  in  latiiude  (iT"^  1 1/  X., 
and  longitude  01°  ;>()'  \\'.,  tiiat  is  lo  sa>',  a.bout  1  !iirly-M>\'cn 
miles  more  south  than  lhe  inoulli  of  (he  ( 'oi)j)ermiiic  l\i^■er, 
a.iul  nincleen  niih^s  more  south  Hum  ihal  ol'  l)a.ck"s  Jvivtu',  at 
i1h'  lower  exi  remit  \  of  I'.athhursi 's  lulel." 


VV//-;   CHEAT    WIIITK   XOHTIf 


llic  followin,;;-  days  wci'c  a  succc^ssion  of  iiicrcdihlc  har(lslii])s, 
ihc  rcsiih  of  llic  (hunp  wcalticr,  llic  Ijurrcnncss  of  ihc  coast, 
ajid  the  soft  snow  and  siush  into  which  th(>  men  ])]unii;('d  kncc- 
dccp  at  vvvvy  st(^j).  No  fire  could  he  H<;'ht('d,  and  in  consc- 
(jucncc  they  had  no  means  of  sccurin,ii;  wai'nith  or  cooked  food  ; 
the  in(Mi  h(>cani(^  l()W-s{)it'ite(l  and  disc()urai2,'e(L  'Vlw  country 
\vas  fhit  and  desohit(^,  an  "  ii're^iihir  ])hun  of  sand  and  stones  ; 
and  had  it  not  been  for  a  riU  of  wat(M',  the  nieanderini;'  of 
which  reheved  the  monotony  of  the  sterile  scene,  one  mi,ii;ht 
ha\'e  fancied  one's  :^oU  in  one  of  the  ])arche(l  ])lains  of  the  I^a^t , 
rather  than  on  the  shore  oi'  the  Arctic  Sea." 

AFakin.u,'  a  luM'oic  advance,  l^ack  discovered  and  namcMl 
Point  ()<^le  and  Point  Richai'dson,  cau,<;'ht  a  sia,iit  of  Poothia 
J'\'lix,  and  then  lia.vin,^?;  rcviched  lalitud(>  ()S°  I'.V  oT"  X.,  lon.u'i- 
tud(>  9f°  08'  \"  \\.,  he  unfurhnl  the  l^,ritish  f!a,<;-  and  took 
formal  possession  in  th(^  nams^  of  His  Majesty,  Wiiiium  I\', 
amid  tli(>  (enthusiast ic  cheei's  of  his  comrad(>s.  d'he\'  left  tlic 
cold  Arctic  shores  the  middle  of  Au!i,ust,  and  not  until  the  17th 
of  Se])teml)er  did  they  meet  Mr.  McL<-od  at  Sand.y  Hill  ])ay, 
accoi'dinji'  to  a])i)oint  ment ,  and  ^vith  him  reached  Poi't  Pe- 
liance  on  t  he  27th. 

A  s(H'ond  wintei'  was  ])ass{Ml  in  the  wild(M'ii(>ss  of  the  inhos- 
pitable north,  d(^\'oted  by  P)ack  and  Dr.  !\in,!i,;  to  wi'itinii;  their 
journals,  mapi)in,i;'  their  (lisc(>\'ei'i(>s,  and  arraiviiin.i;'  their 
scientific  (lata,  the  ci'ew  occupyin<>;  tlKMUsehi^s  in  lumtinL;'  and 
fisihnii  exptnht  ions. 

'i'he  \i\M  (if  March,  ( 'aMi;iii!  I'ack,  ha\"inu  left  instructions 
foi'  l)i'.  Kinj.i  to  proceed  as  soon  as  the  weathei'  would  perniit 
to  the  roiiip.'niy's  factory  ;i1  Hudson  l>aw  t  hei'(>  to  em!);u'k 
lor  fjc'laiid  in  t  heir  spi-inir  ship-.  )ii'ocee(!(Ml  through  ('anada, 
;iiid  by  \\'a\'  oi'  New  'bork  to  I'jiu'l.anil.  wiiei'e  h(>  ;n'!'i\'e(|  .at. 
l.ix'erpool  th;"  Mh  of  Septcmbci-.  I  )r.  ixiim'  I'e.acheil  I'Jmi.aiid 
a  nioiil  h  l;il  "v. 

[•'or  this  rciii.irkable  di-co\-er\'  an.d  \'o\\au'e  down  1  he  (  b'e.at 


snrrsox  axd  dkase  73 

V\>\i  Ivivcr,  Cuptain  Back  nM'civcHl  from  the  Royal  (J(>o- 
<.!;rai)liical  Society  ihcir  Koyal  ])rciniuni  (a  ,<;'ol(l  medal).  In 
is;!.")  he  was  knighted,  having  already  had  the  congratulations 
and  a])])rol)ali()n  of  Mis  Majesty,  the  King. 

The  following  \'ear  Captain  Back  made  another  Arctic 
vo>'ag(>,  in  command  of  \hv  shi])  Terror,  u])  Hudson  Strait. 
Unfortunately  the  ship  got  fast  in  the  ice  off  Cajx'  Comfort, 
and  there  remaincMl  at  the  mercy  of  the  destructive  ice-])ack 
through  a  dreary  winter  until  the  following  July.  She  had 
become  so  disabled  that  she  was  barely  ecjual  to  crossing  the 
Atlantic,  but  the  ndurn  voyage  was  f(jrtunat(>ly  accomplished 
in  safety. 

In  183()  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  desiring  to  comj^lete 
th(>  sm'vey  of  their  nortlu^rn  territories,  es]:)ecially  the  coast- 
line of  Arctic  America,  sent  out  two  of  their  employees, 
Dease  an.d  Simpson,  with  a  pai'ty  of  twelv(^  men. 

Descending  the  Mackenzie^  Pdver  to  the  sea,  they  sin'V(n'ed 
the  w(>stward  shore-line  between  Return  Reef  and  Ca])e 
]^)ai'row.  '[\vi)  large  rivers  wer(>  discovc^red,  th(>  Carry  and 
( "()le\'ille.  Though  the  scvison  was  midsunnner,  the  ground 
^\'as  fro.'aMi,  and  northeast (M'ly  winds  made  progress  very 
1 1'ying. 

By  the  1st  of  August,  further  na\'igati(>n  ]iroved  imjirac- 
ticabU'  ami,  dividing  the  ]iart\',  .'^in)])S()n.  with  sonu^  of  tlu^ 
men.  contiiuicd  the  journ(\\'  on  foot,  and  n(>ase  remained  with 
the-  re>l  of  the  crew  in  charge  of  the  boats.  Sim])son  fell  in 
\vii!i  l^>kim()s.  of  whom  he  hired  an  oomiak,  a  large  can()(\  to 
aid  him  a>  occasion  demanded.      A  few  days  later  he  writes:  — 

"I  saw  with  indescribabl(>  emotions  Point  Bari'ow  stretch- 
in.':  (un  lo  the  noi'iliward  an.d  enclosing  I'.lson  ]);iy.  near  the 
I'oiioiii  of  wlucl!  \\-('  \\'('i-("  now."  biculcnant  Plson  h.aving 
been  in  ciiarii;!'  of  the  ninssani's  barge  ^\'hi(•h  r(\aclied  this 
"  i'.-u'l  hoC  in  iS'Jf).  r])on  llic  I'elurn  of  Simpson  tlie  i)arty 
look  tip  wlnicr  (iiiarler>  a1  ( ireat  Pear  Lake. 


I 


'iiii:  (;i:EAT  ]viiitk  xoirni 


The  fi)!l()wiii<i-  .luiK'  t lic\' (icscfiidcil  the  ( '()])pormin(',  wh(T(>, 
in  -hooliliu'  the  r;i])iil>.  llic\'  "luui  To  ])ull  I'nr  tJicir  live-,  to 
keep  oU'  of  liio  .-ilrlioii  of  the  pr!-cij)ic(  ■-,  alollU'  Avho.-U  ba-c  tlic 
l)!'oakcr>  I'au'cil  and  foaiiK-il,  with  lA'cruiifhiiiim-  fury.  Shoji  ly 
bcfor(-  iiooii.  we  caiiic  in  >iu'hl  of  l-l-ca]«'  lia[)ii!.  of  Fi'a.nklin  : 
auil  a  uiaiirc  at  llic  o\'crlian,uiii,2,'  clift'-  loM  u>  tliaT  tlici'c  was 
no  ahcniali\'('  kiiiT  To  run  down  with  full  cai-ii'o.  "'  ""In  an 
irr-tani,"'  continue-  Sinip-on,  "we  wi'r(-  in  the  \'ortcx  :  a.nd, 
iM'l'orc  we  were  aware,  my  l)(jat  \va-  koriie  towaril  an  i>olated 
rock,  wliicli  the  lioijiii^-  -ni'.ii'c  ahno.-t  conci'aledt.  To  clear 
it  (HI  the  oulsiile  AVa-  no  loim'er  ])(}-,-il)le  :  oui'  only  chance  of 
,-afety  wa-  to  I'un  Ix-twec'ii  il  and  tlie  lot'iy  ea-tei'u  cliff.  The 
Won!  wa-  ])a--ed  and  e\-e!'y  l.'reath  wa-  hu.-he(l.  A  >tr(-ani 
which  d:i-!ie(l  doAvn  upon  u-  o\'er  the  hi'ow  of  the  ])reci])ice. 
more  than  one  hun'li-ed  feet  in  heiuTt.  minii'led  wiih  tlie  .-pi'ax' 
thai  whirledi  upwai'di-  i'r.  iiu  'he  ra]">id.  form  in  Li'  a  ter;-ific  -hower- 
hath.  The  ])a--  A\';i-^  ah^iUl  (•iii'ht  feet  wide,  and  tlie  cri'ni-  (if 
a  .-iiai'le  foot  on  (■itljef  -.-iJ.c  wmiid  ha\'e  keen  in-taiit  de.-1  i'uc- 
tion.  .\-.  u'uidedi  iiy  .-^inclaii''-  consummate  -kill,  the  koat 
.<hot  ^afely  throuiih  those  jaw-  of  death,  an  in\'oluntary  cheer 
arii-f. 

"Hur  U'-xt  im])eike  wa-  to  turn  round,  u>  \^l<^\'  the  fate  of 
our  i-Mmr;:di(-  kehind.  Th''\'  had,  prehM'd  k\'  the  jx-rh  \\-e 
in''uri'''<  1.  ami  lo'i'.t  without  the  treachernir-  ruck  in  time." 

[k"rdi\-  had  they  i-.eT,.!  die  cia-t  kehire  lh(-\-  WelV  -topi)ed 
ky  the  i.,..  a!id  hoM,.!,.~Jy  d.-lcyed  man\-  day-.  The  -ra-en 
Wa-  rajiid!;/ ;id\'anc;iiL':,  and  \'et  no  real  w«uk  h;id  kct  n  a'^cnm- 
pii-h  'd.  'Ml  the  _'(nti  i,f  AuLLU-t.  ."^imo-'in  ;jM'!  -•'/:■!!  men 
>tarti'd   nn   a   t-n   d;i\"-'   walk 

l>r,  ,.rr;    -.      \\-;i-      k, 

]].!■■.  vir.r'in:}  ;ra  e!.-\-a' '■' 1  caoe,  I  teyou' I  wn;c!i  iur!'>''r   ])r(>L!.re-s 
Wa-  ;i;  ii '!  ,-dhi>'.      '  'f  thi-  -'■eu-  Simo-ou  write-  :    - 

"1  ■.-  ■•U'l'd  ;!,•■  lej_ht.  friim  v:hr]]r,-  a  \-a-t  and  -itletidid 
i»rM'ii-    :.:;r-'   -  .dd'-nk'  uoon  ni-'.     dd,e  ^ea.  a^  if  t  I'an-fi  irnnil 


tot  'le   ea-t  warU    111    Iv.iat  lia\-eii 
'ihicihl     ;i![d    di-i'eU!;iU-ini:-.      '  Ml    the    '2'-]' 


RA  E  S    ()  ]  'EHLA  X  D    JO  I  'R  XE  Y  i  D 

])}-  ('iicluuitiiu-nt,  rolled  its  free  wavers  at  my  fcc^t,  and  boyond 
the  I'cach  (jf  \'i>d()n  to  the  eastward.  Islands  of  \'ari(jiis  s}ia])(\s 
and  sixes  overspread  its  surface,  and  the  northern  land  ter- 
minated to  the  eye  in  a  Ijold  and  lofty  ca])(^,  bewaring  cad- 
iujiili((isf.  thirty  or  idrty  miles  distant,  while  the  continental 
coci.-t  trended  away  scjutheast.  I  st(Jod,  in  fact,  on  a  remark- 
able lu^adland,  at  the  eastern  (jutl(^t  of  an  ice-obstructed 
strait.  On  the  extensive  land  to  the  nijrthward,  I  bestcAved 
the  name  of  our  most  <i'racious  sovereign,  (^uec-n  \'ictoria. 
Its  eastern  visible  (extremity  I  called  ('a])e  Pelly,  in  comple- 
m(^nt  of  the  governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company." 

In  ISoU,  Simj)-on  and  Dease  made  a  moi-e  suceessful  jour- 
ney. The  ice  conditions  being  bc'tter.  they  sailfni  through 
the  strait  tliat  separates  \'ictoria  Land  from  tlu^  mainland. 
They  ])ushed  on  to  Simj)S(jn  Strait,  which  di\'id('S  Boothia 
from  the  mainland,  and  latei-  doubled  Point  Ogle.  U]xjn 
rc^aching  Montreal  Island  in  Back's  Estuary,  they  fcjund 
certain  ])rovisions  left  there  l)y  ("a])tain  Ijack  fivc^  y(>a!"s 
before.  On  the  2.")th  of  Augiist,  bS')l).  tlu=y  erected  a  cairn  at 
their  fartlu-st  ])oint  near  ('a])e  Ilei'scliel. 

!-ix]iloi-iiig  ]')()  miles  of  the  siiui'es  of  \'ict(,>r!a  Land  as  far  as 
('a])e  Pari'y  and  the  l)a\'s  of  A\'eIllii,gton.  Cambridge,  ;uid 
I)yi'on.  lh(\\'  cros-cd  ( 'pronation  (  bilf  and  finaJly  reentei'ed  the 
( 'o])]")ermine  Bi\'cr.  afl'-r  a  \'()\'age  of  moi'e  than  biOO  miles  in 
the  Pohii'  Sea.  l'"or  liis  rem,ar]vabl,'  achi('\'emen1s.  Sim])<on 
was  awai'ded  tlie  l-\)Uiid(a-"s  Cold  MedaJ  of  the  li'ayal  (  leo- 
gra])hi'ail  Society  of  Loudon. 

In  ISb).  tlie  Ilud-on  P.ay  Company  fitted  oirf"  another 
ex])edilion  to  be  stait  into  \\\r-  firld  I'oi-  t!ie  ]iur])o<e  of  survy- 
irm-  the  northeast  coruia'  of  the  Amtricaiu  mainl;uid  ;  the 
mouth  oi'  tlie  ( 'astoi'  ;nid  Pollux  to  tlie  C.ulf  of  Akkr,|e(\  so  as 
to  link  t!a'  d:scov(a-i'\  of  Oeasf'  and  Sim])son  and  thos(>  of  the 
secon'l  voya.ues  of  Ho— ;  and  Parry. 

An  (an])lo\'ee  of  the  com])any.  Dr.  .lolni  [{ae,  was  chostai  for 


H) 


TilK   GilEAT    nilJIK   \()i;Tll 


this  ])Uii)(»s('  and  i)u1  in  comniand  of  iwclvc  men.  Dr.  Ha<' 
is  (lc>ci-ii)Cil  as  a  man  ol  unnsnal  altainincms,  a  suriiCdn, 
a>1  rononici',  an  ai)l('  .-tccrsnian  ;  ('(jinl  liniuii'  with  his  aliiiitics 
t'cii-  Icadcrslii))  tlic  acconiplislnncnts  of  a  first-rate  snow-shoe 
walker  and  dead  shot . 

Aftei'  a  canoe  ti'i])  of  two  months'  (hiration,  tlie  ])arty 
ai'rixcd  at  \  oi'k  Faetor}'  eai'ly  in  ()etot)er.  Hei'e  they  ])a-sed 
the  winter.  an«h  as  sooil  as  the  weat  hei' \\'ould  ])ermit,  set  .-ail 
in  two  l)oa1s,  and  skilled  the  shores  of  Ilndson  I5ay. 

At  Foi't  ( "hurchill  the\  found  nati\-es  enu'a^ed  in  (•a])lurin,u; 
white  whales,  vrhich  make  their  way  to  thes(>  A\'aters.  ddiey 
secured  the  services  of  two  l^skimos.  lather  and  son,  ()oh,<i;- 
buck  by  name,  who  accompanied  the  expedition  as  inter- 
preters. 

In  ])a-sin.u-  Chesterfield  Inlet.  the\'  heard  the  urunt inu'  and 
Ix'llowinji' of  wah'uses.  "makinua  noise,"  says  Ihac.  "which  [ 
fancy  would  nnicli  I'oemhlc  a  concert  of  old  hoar-  and  huifa- 
loes."  At  Hepuhlic  Wiiv  lliry  houuhl  >eal>kin  h.oots  fi'om  the 
l^>kinio-,  and  of  the  incidenl  iiac  says.  "(Ineof  our  female 
\'i.-ilor<  took  them  out  o!'  m\'  hand-,  and  heuan  ciiewinu'  thrni 
wilh  her  -ironii  te('lh,  for  1  he  pinpo.^e  of  s,  iftenin,ii;  up  tiie 
le;t1  lii'l-." 

Ih-oi'eiMrmt:' on  their  1oi!-ome  joui'liey,  t  hey  li'aced  the  coast 
from  hord  Maxoi'  l-Jay  lo  wii  hin  leii  mile-  of  [-"ury  and  Ilecla 
Sl  i';iil-,  c()t!iirmiitu'  (  'ai)1ain  l\os<  in  his  >iatemcn1  1  lia1  l-)ool  liia 
\\a.-  a  |)enin-ula  ;  an<l  no1  I'ei  iirnimi'  1o  \'ork  l'"aclor\'  unlil 
S<'pleml)er.   h^l7. 

'idieii'  IniiLi'  wini  CI'  wa-  spfiii  ;ii  jh'pul-i'  k*);iy.  wliere  liiey 
liiiih  ;!  -lone  !iou-e  ;ind  pi'ocuri'tl  pr(j\'i-ions  hy  hunlinu,'  and 
li-lnnu'.  I  )r.  Ih'ic.  heinu'  .•m  cxcelliMi  1  -Ik  i1 ,  .-ecurc(l  in  i  me  d;i>' 
;i-  tiumx  ;i-  -e\'cn  i\fcv  wiiliin  1  w  o  mile-  of  ihcir  -holier. 
In  "III-  mniiili  of  Scpicinl  iei\  -i\1y-lhrec  <\frv.  Wvf  hai'f'-.  one 
-I';  1 1,  oiic  iiiiudi'id  ;ind  -i'\('Ul  \'-l  wi )  p;ii'1  ridiiv.  ;iiid  i  rue  liundroi  1 
and  -ixo'cn  -aim on  and  1 1'oul  wrrc  ,-ccm'('d.      Wv  i  i.c  middle  of 


/M/;,S    OVKIILAXB    JOrilNKV  ~i 

()ct()i)(>r  the  (1(MM'  became  scarce,  but  two  hundred  i^artridge.s 
were  scH'ureil.  also  a  few  salmon,  so  that  by  the  time  all  game 
had  migrated,  they  had  a  fairly  well-stocked  larder.  How- 
vvvw  th(^  ([Uestion  of  fuel  was  a  vexing  one,  as  th(>re  was  no 
wood  To  s]K^ak  of,  but  the  capture  of  two  seals  supplied  them 
with  oil  for  their  lamps. 

Toward  February  it  was  found  necessar}'  to  limit  the  men 
to  one  meal  a  da\'. 

As  the  s])riiig  advanccMl,  they  made  a  series  of  journeys. 
Of  these  l^i'.  i^ae  descril)(>s  making  camp  after  a  fatiguing 
d;iy"s  travel  :  -— 

'"Our  Tisual  mode  of  ]ir(^]')aring  lodgings  for  th(^  night  was 
as  follows  :  As  -^oon  as  we  luid  selecteil  a  s]:)ot  for  om'  snow- 
h()us(\  our  }']skimos,  ;i>siste(l  by  one  or  more  of  the  men,  com- 
menc(Ml  culting  out  l)lo('ks  of  snow.  WIkmi  a  sufficient  num- 
b(M'  of  th(>se  had  b(M'n  rai>(Hl,  the  builder  commenced  his  work, 
his  assistants  su])])l>'ing  him  wiih  material.  A  good  roomy 
dwelling  was  tlius  raised  in  an  hour,  if  ilie  snow  was  in  a  good 
state  for  building.  W'liibt  our  ])rincipal  mason  was  tlnis 
occui)ied,  anoiher  oi'  the  ])arty  was  busy  (a-ecting  a  kitchen, 
whicli,  although  our  cooking  was  none  of  the  most  delicate 
or  exten-ive.  was  still  a  necc^ssary  addition  to  our  establish- 
m(ait.  had  it  biM'u  onl}'  to  thaw  snow.  As  soon  as  the  snow- 
hiut  was  c()!n])let(Ml.  our  sledges  w(a'(^  unloaded,  and  every 
eatable  dncludinii'  parchment-s]<^in  and  moose-skin  shoes, 
which  had  l)ec()me  now  fa\'orite  articl(\s  with  the  flogs)  taken 
in>itle.  Om"  bed  was  next  made,  and.  by  tlie  time  the  snow 
was  ihawf^d  or  tlie  watei'  boiled,  as  the  case  migh.t  be.  we  were 
all  read>'  for  su]i])(a'.  Wluai  we  used  .alcohol  for  fuel  (which 
we  usually  <lid  in  stormy  weallier*  no  kitchen  wa<  rc'Ciuired." 

Aflia'  da\'s  of  exi^osui'e  and  harilshiji.  Di'.  Hae  wi'ites  :  — 

■A\'e  A\-ei'<>  again  on  ihe  niai'ch.  and  arrix'cd  at  our  home  at 
!);ilr  pa>1  eig!i1  P.M..  all  well,  but  >o  black  and  scarred  on  the 
fac<-,  fi'oin  the  combined  effcM'ts  of  oil.  smoke-,  and  fi'ost -bites. 


'8 


77/A'    CHEAT    nilllE  .XORTH 


iliat  our  iViciuls  woiild  not  liclicvc  l)u1,  t.luit  soiiio  sorioiis  acci- 
dent iVoiii  the  explosion  of  .gunpowder  had  hap])ened  to  us. 
ddius  successfully  lenuinaled  a  joiu'iiey  liUle  shor1  of  six 
hundred  I'ji,u,lish  miles,  ihe  longest,  1  beHcN'c^,  ever  made  on 
fool  alona;  the  Arctic  coasl." 

Of  another  flip  made  in  May,  Dr.  lia(Mvrites  :  — 
''Our  journey  liitliei'to  liad  l)een  the  nujst  fatiii;uini;'  I  had 
ever  ex])ei'ienced;  the  sevei'c  exercise,  with  a  limit(-d  alUnvance 
of  food,  had  reduced  the  whole  ])a!'t\'  very  much.  Ilowevei', 
we  inarched  m(M'ril\'  on,  1  i(;hteni!i,ii'  our  hells,  -  niin(^  came  in 
SIX  inches,  -  tlie  men  xowin.a,' that  A\"}ien  they  ji'ot  on  full  allow- 
ance they  would  make  u])  for  lost  lime." 

\W  tli{>  ia.-t  ol'  Au.uust,  IS  17,  the  ])ar1y  returned  lo  civili- 
zation, wIkm'c  Dr.  IJac  \\'as  aA\'ai'ded  four  lumdi-ed  ])ounds  by 
the  Hudson  ]^ja\' ( 'ompany  h)r  his  impoi'lan!  sei'\"ices. 


CHAPTER   \1 

Sir  John  Franklin.  —  I^arly  lif<\  —  First  luiid  (expedition  of  FS19-FS2F 
—  .Journey  IVom  York  Factory  to  C'unil)erlan(l  llouec.  —  Pvcach 
Fort  Pr()\'idcnce.  —  Winter  at  Fort  IJitc^rpi'ist'.  —  Fxplorations. 
-oooU  miles.  --  llard.<hij).  —  Star\-ation.  —  PLeturn.  —  Second 
land  journey.  —  ]S2o.  —  \\'ai1er  ([uartei's  at  Clnat  J>ear  Pake.  — 
Descent  of  the  ^Mackenzie  Piiver  to  the  Polar  Sea.  —  12(J0  miles  of 
coast  added  to  map. — Th.e  last  journey  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
1S45. — The  Ere  iis  and  Terror.  —  Last  seen  in  AP'lville  Pay. 

Xo  name  liolds  inoro  ronumlie  association  with  Arctic 
lii-toi->'  than  that  of  Sir  John  I'^rankhn.  AMiat  a  career,  wluit 
1()\'('  of  adventure,  \\'hat  luirdshijis  endtnxMl  with  heroic  for- 
titude, what  l(\idcrship  tliat  could  ins])ii-o  otlua's  to  ])assionate 
l()\'ahy.  and  su])ei'hunian  (auhu'ance  inider  ims])eakalde  trials, 
and  vvhat  a  falc  ! 

Pet  us  I'eA'iew  bi^ii^hy  a  life  that  stands  in  thc^  foremost 
ran.!;  t)f  na\"al  historx',  not  so  nnich  Fy  ,u'r(\at  a(Piievenient.  as 
l)y  tliat  ])articular  cliarni  of  (Piaractei',  indefinahle  and  subtle^ 
that  is  l)as(Ml  on  those  ureat  ([Ualities  of  tolerance,  jtistice, 
lo\'alty,  siuiplieit}'.  and  warm  affection-;. 

John  Fraidvlin,  the  x'ouniiest  son  of  tAV(d\'(>  childrcm.  was 
horn  in  the  small  m,;irk(d  town  of  Spil.vFy,  Pincolns!iirf\  .\])ril 
](').  ITSC).  He  \v;i>  (^arK'  destined  for  tlie  church  and  (^ducated 
at  St.  [v(>s,  and  later  at  Louth  (".ramnuir  School.  A  holiday 
ja\ui1  with  a  \-ounti'  com]nmion.  twth'O  n)ile-  to  the  shores  of 
\\[c  Xoi'th  S(\'i.  with  its  ovei'wheliniim'  .urandour.  chanced  his 
career  :\nd  d(M'id(Hl  liim  foi'  the  life  of  a  sailor. 

Tlie  shi'ewd  old  father,  with  lli.'it  acute  knowledu'e  of  tlie 
short -hvcnl  enthusiasms  of  youth,  i)ut  him  to  test,  and  at  four- 

79 


80  TlIK   an  EAT    WHITE   X  OUT  II 

toeii  y(nirs  of  a,<i-('  youn*;-  John  served  on  ;i  mcrchantnian 
bound  for  Lisbon.  rndaun1e(l  by  ihc  liai'd  fxM'th  of  a  sailor 
lad.  we  find  him  in  ISOI  on  the  (luartci'-dcck  of  ihc  Poii- 
phiinus,  inidcr  C "aplain  banford,  leading-  in  line  at  the  batlle 
of  ('o])enhajicn,  Lord  Xelson's  hardest  fought  battle. 

His  iron  will,  ever  more  firm  in  its  determination  for  a  life 
of  adventure,  secured  him  later  a  beilh  in  the  discovery  shi]) 
Inrcstii/dlor.  ex])loring  the  coast  of  Australia,  wluMx^  Franklin 
acciuired  valuable  astronomical  and  surveying  skill  under  his 
able  relativ(>,  ('a])tain  Flinders. 

Transferred  lo  the  Porpoise,  which,  in  com^iany  wilh  the 
Cato,  was  wrecked  on  a  coral  reef  off  tlu>  coast  of  Ausiralia. 
August  LS,  1803,  the  lad,  with  on(>  hundred  and  fifty  others, 
S])ent  fiit\'  days  on  a  stri])  of  sand  only  four  h'et  a])ove  water. 
('aj)lain  Flinders,  after  making  his  way  2r)0  blagues  to  I'oii 
Jackson  in  an  o])en  boat,  rescued  his  coni])anions.  I''i'anklin 
finally  reacluMi  Canton,  whei-e  lie  secured  ]-)as.-age  lo  1-aigland 
in  the  Eorl  (.'oiii(hii,  l-^ast-Luliaman,  under  Sir  Nathaniel 
Dance,  connnodore  of  the  ( 'liina  fleet. 

An  engagenuMit  \\ith  the  French  s(|uadi'()n  occurrinl  in 
February'.  ISOf.  at  which  }-oung  I'Vanklin  I'cp.dereil  \-aluable 
sei'vice  as  signal  niidshii)inaui.  On  his  I'dui'u  lo  laigland  he 
was  assigned  to  lh(>  Ih  lU  rdplinii .  At  the  batlle  of'  I'l'afalgar, 
he  gallant  !>■  stooi  1  on  1  he  jioop,  ^vit  h  t  li(>  dead  and  dying  falling 
be<idc  him.  altendinii  to  the  signals,  with  a  coolnes>  and  accu- 
racy that  won  liim  llie  unstinteil  admiration  of  Isi-^  comi'ade-^. 

l-"or  the  iicxl  two  ycai's  he  se!'\'(Ml  under  Aihiiii'als  ( 'oi'u- 
walli^.  Si.  \'i!ici'!ii,  and  Sirathain:  then  for  >i\  \-ear-  in 
th.'  n^.lfnnl. 

[\\  the  ili<a-t  I'ou-  att.'ick  upon  Xcw  (h'leans.  l'ran]^Hn  com- 
m;indcd  ilic  boni-  in  ;i  jioht  wiih  ihe  enemy'-  u'unbo.-n-:  he 
c;ip1urcd  diic  of  lhcm  and  >urf<'i'cd  a  -hghl  wound  in  the 
shiuildiT  in  a  liand-1  (i-h;ind  cncoiml ci'. 

lie  w'M-  pi'iiiiK  )lcd  lo  Iii--1  licuicnanl   foi'  uallam  >er\-ice  and 


e^ 


SIR    JOIIX    FliAXKLTX  81 

assi^u'iicd  1o  i\\o  Forth,  which,  afivv  i\\o  alxUcation  of  Xaiwleon 
and  the  rcvsl oration  of  tlio  Bourbons,  conveyed  the  Duchess 
d'Angonlc^nie  baciv  to  France. 

It  is  not  suipi'isins  that  after  snch  a  varicMl  and  distinguished 
career,  Fi'ankHn  should  l)e  one  of  the  first  to  enter  with  whole- 
s()u1(m1  enthusiasm  into  the  renewed  interest  shown  by  Eng- 
land in  Arctic  discovc^ry  and  exploration. 

Of  the  l^uchan  (\\])edition  in  which  Franklin  was  second  in 
command,  we  already  know  the  history.  The  succeeding  ex- 
])e(litions,  though  s])ok(ui  of  as  failures  in  their  main  ol)ject, 
won  for  him  a  renown  (juite  unique  in  Arctic  honours,  and  the 
last,  so  tragically  fatal  in  its  results,  did  more,  through  the 
numberless  s(>arching  parties  sent  out  to  discover  news  of  the 
missing  shiips,  to  (^xtend  the  world's  scicnitific  knowledge  and 
ge()gra])hical  accuracy  of  Arctic  Amei'ica.  than  could  ])ossibly 
have  been  accomiilished  had  the  ex])edition  be(m  a  succ(^ss. 

Before  taking  up  in  dc^tail  the  journeys  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
it  might  be  well  to  mak(^  note  of  a  side-light  in  his  remarkable 
character.  To  this  man  a  carecM'  meant  the  ])ai'amount  ambi- 
tion of  life,  a.  passion  stronger  than  the  lo\'e  (jf  woman,  of 
faniil>',  of  home  or  physical  comfoi'ls.  After  the  return  of 
the  ]>uchan  and  Franklin  expedition,  tlu^  gentle  ])()etess, 
Ann(^  Poi'den.  who  had  written  "  \'iels,  or  Triumpli  of  ( 'on- 
stancy."  tlie  '"('(eur  de  Fion."  and  a  short  ])0(>m  on  the  Arctic 
(^x])edilion  jus1  returned,  visited  the  Tr(  tit  and  met  tlu^  gallant 
,h)hn  l''rani;lin  in  th.{>  full  blush  of  his  youthful  manhood.  TF; 
fell  in  l()\-e.  and  ujion  his  retui'n  fi'om  his  (ii'st  land  ex]')(Hlition, 
in  F"^"-';],  th{\\-  wvvo  marricnl,  but  with  the  distinct  understand- 
inu'lhal  .-w<H't  .\mt(>  sliould  "  nevei',  under  any  circumstanc(>s, 
s(M'k  to  turn  her  husband  asi(l(>  from  the  duty  \\c  owed  his 
coinitry  ;uid  his  cai'iH^'."  And  she  kept  lua-  word,  but  at 
what  saci'ifice  ! 

hi  .lune  of  the  following  year  a  daughter  wa>  born  to  them, 
btit    tlie  molltei'  ni-ver  r(>u,'ain(Ml  hei-  lu^idtii;    a  few  months 


82 


Tin:  CHEAT  w'inTK  xoirrii 


hilcr.  ]Outtin,<;'  in  .John  I'l-aiikliii's  hand  a  silken  flag  to  bo  carried 
iiorlh  \()  \"ict()r\',  llie  woi'k  of  her  dyin,!;'  fin,<iers,  .^he  coura- 
,i!;(()usl\'  l)a(Le  iiiiii  ( iod-s])e('d,  and  he  started,  amid  tlie  ap])lause 
of  an  enthu>iastic  nation,  upon  tliat  second  journey — little 
>i'ues>ing  she,  too,  was  about  t(_)  embark  U})on  the  great  un- 
known. 

"My  instructions,  in  siibstanc(\"  writ(>s  Franklin  of  the 
iir>t  land  ex])edition  of  lSli)-lS21,  "informed  me  that  the 
main  obj(>ct  oi'  the  ex'ijedition  was  that  of  determining  the 
latitude  and  longil  ude  of  tlie  nonhern  coast  of  Xorth  America, 
an.d  the  trending  nf  tlia.t  coast  fi'om  the  mouth  of  the  ( 'ojjpia'- 
mine  lvi\'er  1o  the  ea--1ern  exli'emit\'  of  that  continent."' 

He  '\vas  aulliorizid  to  lake  counsel  with  lh(^  Hudson  Bay 
ohicial-.  and  plan  his  course  accordingly.  In  fact,  nruch  was 
left  1o  his  i)W\\  di>cr(-lion,  and  befoi'c  lea\'ing  I^nghmd  he  was 
ioi'lunate  enough  lo  go  (,iver  ihe  details  of  the  ])ro])osed  jour- 
\\r\-  wiih  Sir  .Vlexand'-r  ]\rackenzi(>.  the  (jnl\'  li\'in.g  kinglish 
explore.''  ^\■!lo  liad  \"i^ite(l  tlial  coast. 

Accompanie(l  by  l)i'.  I^icharilson,  surgeon  and  naturalist 
(laiei'  Sir  ,lohu  l{icliard-oii  i,  Admii'ally  AIids]ii]»man  ( leoi'gc^ 
I'ack  lialei-  Sii'  (icoi'ge  Iiack",  Ivobcil  Hood,  and  another 
IJmii^hman,  John  IIei)bu!ii.  l"i';inklin  sailctl  fi'om  (ira\'e.-end 
in  l!ic  I'rhin    ,,)'  Wnhs.   .M;ty  -i:',,    ISb.l. 

(hi  I'eachini;;  \'oriv  [''actory,  t  !:e  pi-inci'pal  di'pot  of  th.e  Hud- 
M>ii  \\[\\  ( 'oin])any,  he  fonndi  jui  uiiforluuale  .-'.itc  of  alfaii's 
exi>liiu':  bi'twccn  liicm  and  l!ie  Xoi'lii\ve-l  ( 'i  iiiip-anx".  A. 
biiiiT  I'iwih'y  had  ri'-nheil  in  ihe  d(1cnbinii  a1  \  ^^vk  l'"ariii!'y 
ol'  (■(■;'i;!!!i  i)ariner<  of  ihe  olher  coinp.'iny.  and  1  he  re-uh  of 
i!ii-  niiii 'H  iiiia'o  (|uaiTel  had  .-ei'ious  resull<  lipon  hi>  own 
!ui  iirc. 

!  !'■  \/:i-  aib.A-''d  li  t  make  for  (  'niiibci'|;iiid  Hou-c.  .-nii  1  l;il cr 
ihl'MU'.rh  a  rh;i;ii  ,)i  j)(i-l-  1o  ihe  -horc-  nf  (lr(';i1  Sia\'e  bake. 
Willi  I'lily  dill'  -!irr-!iMii  and  a  bo;ii  ^o  -m.-ill  b(iai  many  of 
till'  ]iro\a-ioii>  were  in  coiimm  luciice  lefl  behind,  i  raiikhn  made 


JOJ'RXEY    TO    Cl'MBFAiLAXB    HOVSE  83 

his  start  u])  the  Hayes  Rivor,  Sopteniber  9.  Sailino;  was  frc- 
qucndy  varied  by  the  arduous  hibour  of  trackin.c;,  and  not  un- 
frecjuently  a  ywrtajio  was  found  necessary,  which  added  to  the 
fatigues  and  discouragements  of  the  day. 

At  on(^  of  the  outposts  of  the  Hudson  Ray  Coni]mny.  they 
were  again  ol)liged  to  k'ave  some  of  tlieir  stores  under  ])ronii-e 
tliat  thes(^  Avould  be  forwarded  in  the  spring,  and  kiter,  at 
Sv>'ani])y  Lake,  the  tenants  of  the  (k^pot  gave  tJieni  a  supply  of 
nioukly  ])enunican,  which  of  course  had  to  be  thrown  away 
kit(M'.  Thus  from  tiie  outset  the  expedition  laboured  under  tlie 
fatal  fuuidica])  of  insufficient  stores. 

At  ()xf(n'd  House,  Holy  Lake,  they  s(>cured  some  good 
pennnican  and  also  fi>h,  and,  as  the  season  was  advancing, 
tliey  ])ushed  onward.  They  finally  I'cached  the  mouth  of  the 
Saskatchevran,  and,  folloAving  the  river,  they  fii'st  arrived  at 
Little  River,  then  Pine  Island  Lake,  arid  at  la>t,  on  October  2:5, 
Cumberland  IRjuse.  Already  ice  liad  im])eded  their  journey, 
and  h(M-e  they  <letermined  to  winter,  at  the  invitation  of  Gov- 
erui)]'  AMlliams. 

Irupatient  to  be  on  liis  way,  and  desirous  of  securing 
guides,  liuntcrs,  interi)retei-s,  and  stores  for  the  jommey  to  tlie 
sea,  Franklin,  accomjianied  ])y  J^ack  and  Heipbiurn,  started, 
January  10,  1820,  for  k'ort  ('hipmvyan,  with  ])rovi>ions  for 
fiflcen  diay.s.  After  a  winter'.--  ,iourne\'  of  eigiit  hundred  and 
fifty-.-eveu  mile<.  they  reacliC'd  their  destination, 

Tiie  Viirious  ]")osts  at  whicli  th(^y  sto]i])ed,  .--upplied  them  Avith 
only  a  limited  amount  of  jirovisions,  aivl  the  pros])ect  of  >ecin'- 
ing  moro  was  most  discouraging.  Sickness  of  the  Liilian-. 
in  "tile  huntinii  season  foretoM  a  scarcity  for  the  following 
spiiuL;;  moreover,  the  i'i\'alry  oi'  the  fur  comjxuiics  and  the 
kr-;:-!i  i'X])i-U'iil  ure  of  liicir  -toi'('<  in  oi>])o~ition  tai'iie<  h;id 
I'l'-u'ti'd  in  Lircally  d('])!e1edi  food  sup|>1y,  >o  that  ])ro\"i-ioM,< 
eAj):('-.-ly  intcndod  for  Lrard^lin  were  later  consumed  li('f<jre 
reachimi;  him. 


84  THE   CUE  AT    WHITE  XOUTTT 

The  tra\'('llors  had  sul'forcd  oreatly  from  X\\c  unaccuslonKMl 
us(>  of  snoAv-shocs,  the  wcisiht  of  several  ])oun(ls  of  snow 
(•hii,(iin<i;  to  the  shoes  haviii.<>;  <i;aUe(l  and  huned  their  feet. 
Yet  the  journey  liad  not  been  considered  as  \vearin<>;  as  that 
from  York  Factory  to  CumljerUmd  Hoiis(>. 

The  return  of  fi'eese,  (hielvs,  and  s\\'ans,  tojiether  with  the 
meltinji'  of  the  snow  and  iee,  now  <i;ave  inchcations  of  a[)pi'(jach- 
in,!j;  sjirinu'.     Air.  Hood  writes  of  this  time  :  — 

"The  noise  mad(>  by  the  fro<i.s,  which  thi<  innn(hition  ]ii'o- 
(hice(h  is  almost  incrcMlible.  There  is  sti'ona:  I'eason  to  be- 
lieve that  they  outlive  the  sev(>rity  of  wintei'.  They  ha^vc^ 
often  been  found  fi'ozen.  auid  re\"i\'eil  l)y  warmlh;  nor  i<  it 
]iossible  that  the  nmltitude  which  incessantly  fill(Ml  our 
ea!'--<  with  their  discordant  notes  could  have  been  matured  in 
two  or  three  days." 

Speakinii'  of  the  resuseitation  of  fisli,    I-'ranklin  writes:  — 

"If  in  this  comiiletely  frozen  state,  tlicy  wei'e  tiiawiMl  be- 
fore^ the  lire,  they  reco\'ered  their  animation,  ddiis  was  par- 
ticularly the  case  with  the  car]),  and  we  had  occa-ion  to  ob- 
ser\'e  it  i'ej)eate(lly.  as  Dr.  Piicliard>on  (lecupicd  him-elf  in 
examinin,2.'  the  >tructur<'  of  the  diffei-eni  .-jiecie,-  of  ii>!i.  and  Avas 
alwa\"s  in  the  winter  under  the  !iece-<ity  of  thawinu;  them 
befe>re  lie  could  cut  them.  \\v  ha\'<'  >een  a  caip  rrcovi^r  x) 
far  as  to  lea]T  about  with  much  vi^u'or  after  it  had  been 
frozen  thirt\'-< ix  liour-." 

Piiejiard-on  and  Hood  now  joined  l-^ranklin.  and  tlie  jiai'ty 
inci'ea-ed  by  -ixleen  ( 'anadian  \'oyau'i'Ui'<.  a  ( '!iii)ewyan 
woman,  and  two  interpreter-,  made  theii'  way  iinrthward. 
It  wa>  niiw  till'  middle  of  .bily.  and  t  heir  viiolc  -loclv  (.f  ])i-o- 
\'i-ion.-  con-i-ti'd  of  hardly  more  than  one  d;iy',-  -ui^plx'. 
l-"oi't  up.;itcly  t  liey  >o()ii  added  a  bulTalo.  a.nd  ai  Moo-c  Deer 
I.dand  the\'  ifol  -ome  -upplie-  fi'om  the  Hud-on  ISiiy  and 
Xort  hwe-t    (  'i  impan\'  oHii'cr-. 

About     the    la-t     of    .Iui\-     lln's'     I'eached     hoi't     rro\-ida'nc(>. 


WLXTKIl    AT    FORT    ENTEIII'RISE  85 

I'^roin  tlic  Indian  chief  Akaitcho  tlioy  scnaircMl  guidc^s,  the 
party  iuu'iuii,'  Ix'cn  incrcascMl  to  twenty-nine,  exclusive  of 
three  ctiilih-en.  A  journ(\v  of  five  hundred  and  fifty-two 
miles  -vx'as  acconi]ilished,  with  no  little  hardship.  Lack  of 
food  and  other  i)i-ivatiou  caused  the  Canadian  voya^eurs  to 
l)ri'tUv  out  in  opc^n  nnitiuy.  At  Fort  Enter])rise  winter  Cjuar- 
ters   \\'ere    estal)lislie(l. 

Eai'ly  in  October,  l^ack  and  a  party  returned  to  Fort 
Providence  to  arran^(>  for  the  trans])ortation  of  stores  ex- 
pected from  Cumberland  House.  The  stores  were  anx- 
iously awaited,  and  it  was  hoptnl  they  would  arrive  by  New 
^'ear's  Day,  1821.  In  tlu;  meantime  the  party  were  sub- 
sisting for  tlu^  most  i)art  on  reindeer  meat,  fish  twice  a 
week,  and  a  little  floui'.  The  middle  of  January  seven  of 
Back's  ])arty  returned,  bringing  with  them  as  many  stores 
as  they  c(juld  haul. 

A  little  hiter  Back  returned,  luiving  performed  on  foot 
tlie  I'CMnarkable  joiU'P.ey  of  more  than  eleven  hundred  miles 
(jn  sno\v-s!ioe<.  sleeiMug  in  tlie  o])en,  with  onl}'  th(>  ])i'ot(H'tion 
of  a  bUinlvCt  and  a  deei'skin,  the  thermometer  frt^fju^'ntly  at 
40^  and  once  at  ~)1^  below  zero,  —  and  passing  several  days 
wit  liout  food. 

The  failure  of  th(>  great  fur  com|)anies  to  keep  their  con- 
ti'act>  had  i'e>ult(-d  in  almost  n(.)  ])ro\'isions  being  s(.'Cin'ed.  At 
r'ort  l-jitei'j)i'ise  it  was  now  found  necessary  to  curtail  ra- 
tion- to  the  mo-t  meagre  [unount,  and  many  of  the  Indian 
families  camped  about  the  house  were  oblig(>d  to  satisfy  the 
crax'ings  of  hunger  with  l)ones,  deer's  feet,  and  bits  of  other 
otTal. 

'"When."'  -a>'s  l"'ranklin,  "  W(>  beheld  them  gnawing  the 
])ieces  of  hide,  and  ])ounding  tiie  bcjnes  for  the  ])Ui'])Ose  of 
extracting  some  nourishment  from  them  by  boilinii',  we 
regi'etliMl  our  inability  to  r(-lieve  them,  but  little  thouuht 
that   we  ourselves  slujuM  be  uftei'wards  dri\'en  t(j  th(>  neces- 


bG  THE   GREAT    WIUTE  NORTIf 

<\Xy  of  caii'crly  cijlli-ctinii;  these  same  bones,  a  sc'cond  time, 
froiii  ill"  (luii,L!,--liill.''" 

ill  July.  1S21,  the  ex])eilitioii  lia\'hi,<^  (h'au^T'd  canoes 
auil  hauuau'e  with  fifteen  day.-'  ])rovisioii-  to  the  hiuik  of 
the  Copijenniiie.  eniharked  ii])Ou  thf  main  object  of  the 
enteri)ri-e.  Ijy  the  "ioth  they  had  doubled  ('a])e  Hari'ow. 
and  it-  ea-tern  sirle  they  named  Inmaii  Harbor.  Tlie 
danii'''rs  a.nd  di<ci>ura,<i'ements  that  b."-et  Ai'ctic  travellers 
soon  fell  li)  theii'  lot.  Their  >lock  (jf  food,  r('])leih.<hed  with  a 
few  deer,  soon  became  exhau.-tcih  and  the  ration  i--Ufd  to 
each  man  \\-as  a  meagre  handful  (jf  i)emmican  and  a  small 
])or* ion  ! )f  -oup. 

V.y  tic  oih  (jf  AuiiU-t,  they  luid  reach<'d  the  Back  liiver 
and  ih(-n  cxDloi'ed  Mi'lville  Sound  and  Pxithurst  Inlet. 
ITa\"in,-!;  r(-ai'hcd  Point  Turiiagaim  and  meetinu;  with  no  Es- 
l^imo-  who  ri)n:d.  [■(•plcni-h  tiieir  ])i'o\-i.-;on-.  I'd'anl-din  vras 
obli'i'cd  to  tui'n  back.  iia\'imi'  saiL'd  nearly  -ix  hundred  ,u'e(_)- 
.ri'rcoliic.'i!  mill--  in  tracing'  the  iri'eLi-ular  -hore  of  ('orojiation 
( iulf  !V')m  1  ill'  (  'op]):i'mi!ie  Ri\-er. 

Ihdui-i-d  ti)  \\\c  la-1  extremity  for  \\'vy\\\  of  food,  tlie  l;i-t 
1)it  of  ])eminii'an  an.di  iirrownx^t  ha\'imi'  furnwd  a  scrin.ty  -u])- 
j)'-r.  au'l  wiihiiUt  nw;in-  of  makinu'  a  fire,  ihi-  forlorn  ]>arty 
>\)i-\\'  ;':!'  fii'th  day  of  :^"!)t enibi^r  in  bi-d  wbili'  a  >niiW-iorm 
i':cj.v;i  ;:bi}\-i'  ihi'm  au'l  driftcil  into  ilcir  tC'Ut.  covei'inu,'  their 
t  iiii;  lilankrt-  -evi-ra!  im'hc-.      <  )f  thi-  da\-  Wi'l'i'-  id'ankiin  :  — 

■■*)ur  -uf:V:M!,Li:  b'om  ci-ld,  iri  a  comfnrtr'--  'cmx';'-  tent  in 
-"c'l  '>'/•■;  1 1 ':;,')■  \\-\\\\  \\\i-  temperature  at  '1\)\  and  without  fire, 
^\'''i  -a-iiy  bi'  imiiiriiied  :  it  wa-.  lio\N'e\'er.  L---  tium  tiiat 
w'  ii'ii   '■'•.-'-  \>-'v    fn  im   liuiiier."" 

fi.r  'WW  d:i;c<  tiic/  ii\-ed  on  a  lielicn  Iniown  a<  Irijii  'I" 
r"i-n.  .  aad  en  t'.e  pitii  ••they  ei)t  a  lii'Dii  iiie-l  by  kiilim:;  a 
mu-l;-.  X.      '{'<}  -Inn   and  eui    uj)  tiie  an:'M;i!   w'l-  ihe  wnvl:  i  h' 

;i     i'l'W    'nice',.-;.        d'iie    (■' i!l  i  ei,t  ~-    iif    ;'-    -'(iinw'h     W^r-    de\-(illl'ed 

luien    ;:.!■   -ii'iW    raw    inte-une-,    wiiicli    wri'c    ni-xl    att;u-keih 


STARVATION  87 

were  iironounccd  by  llic  most  delicate^  uniouji'st  us  to  1)0  ox- 
('(dliMit." 

The  ci'tocts  of  suiT(>riii<^  and  fainino  })(^<i,:ui  to  show  thoiii- 
sclvcs  in  th(>  iniprovidcncc  and  indilTcrfMU'c  of  the  men. 
TliriH^  fishiii,u'-n(-ts  were  left  behind,  and  om^  of  the  canoes 
broken  and  al)aiidone(L  ^viosses,  an  occasional  ])arti'i(lii'e, 
tripv  (Ic  roclie,  bits  of  >inii'ed  hide,  and  such  marrow  as  could 
})e  extracteil  fi'om  finds  of  bon(\s  of  animals  form(Hl  their  only 
diet. 

ldiou,<i'h  w'Qiik  and  lame,  Jjack  pushed  forward  in  s(>arch  of 
relief.  One  by  one  the  starvin<i;  men  fell  by  th(>  wayside. 
Hood,  sutfei'iiii^  from  the  erfects  of //■/'//•,"  dc  riichc,  whicli  ne\'er 
afi're('d  with  him,  became  too  exhausted  to  proc(H'd,  ;uid  Dr. 
Richardson  volunteered  to  remain  witli  him.  As  one  by  one 
th("  vai'ious  mejnlxM's  (b'opj^ed  down  with  fati.^ue,  only  five 
Ix^sides  I*'j'anklin  wc^re  left  in  the  advance  ])arty.  These  con- 
tinuiHl  iheir  weaiy  ])il^'rima,i;v,  clu^ered  ■with  th(>  l)oi)(-  that  at 
I'oi't  Enter])ris('  Avould  be  found  s!ie!!(>r  and  the  nuich-ncHnled 
suijplies  which  liad  becni  promised  tluMu.  .Mas  !  tlieir  ii,i'ief 
an.d,  disapp(.>intnient  ma\'  Ite  imai^ined  upon  enterin,u'  tliis 
wretched  d(^])ot  to  lind  it  desolate  and  witliout  a  vestige 
of  pi'ovisions. 

■"It  would  b(^  imi)ossibIe,"  sa\'s  rranklin,  "to  (le>crib(>  our 
sens:itions  aftei'  (Mitei'lng  tiiis  misei'able  abode,  aiid  disco\-cr- 
ing  how  we  !iad,  iiccn  nc'iilecled  :  the  M'hole  i)arty  shed 
t(-ai's,  not  so  nuich  for  oui'  own  tale  a>  i'oi'  th.at  of  our  fri(M!ds 
in  tiie  rear  wiio^e  lives  depiMided  entirel\'  uu  our  >endin!2:  im- 
inediaie   relief  from   tliis   place." 

To  tlu'ii'  sur]i!'I-e  they  found  ;i  note  fi'om  I'ack  -tiitini': 
tluit  he  liad  reached  the  slseltci'  two  days  befni'e  !iy  ;!riOi!;rr 
I'oule  and  had  inune;iiately  P'l'es-i'd  on  in  luipc  o!'  (in(nng  i'le 
Indian-,  ;uid  if  m.l.  !:<'  would  direct  lii-;  -lep>  In  bo'i  PcdX'i- 
dcncc.  thi)iiLi!i  lu^  d/)ulit(Ml  if  he  ;uid  hi:^  i)arly  could  reach 
there  in  their  ])r(vent  iml'ortunate  condition. 


88 


UK  Gin: AT  WHiri-:  xoiriii 


l''r:iiikliii  and  his  men  .u'athcrcd  loucthcr  wiiat  could  Ix; 
used  as  food  and  found  .-('\-(-ral  dcci'.-kin-  ihat  had  h)ccn 
thrown  away  the  ])i'('viou<  year  and  a  few  h)oncs  u'aTticrcd 
from  the  refu>(>  h("ap.  These,  \\ilh  tn'pf  di  rochi.  ,  they  made 
into  a  SOU])  and  endea\'ou!'ed  to  >ui)i)o!l  life  on  the  putrid 
nia:-s.  Later  on  onic  more  memlier  of  the  ])art\'  came  in,  and 
a  da}'  or  two  after  a  man  name(l  Fjalanucr  of  liack's  ]);i!'ty 
reached  camp  in  all  hut  a  dyin,ti'  condition.  lie  tiadi  fallen 
into  a  ra])id.  had  come  near  drownin,u',  and  was  then  -jieech- 
les>  fr()m  exhaustion  and  expo.-urc.  When  warmed,  dj-y 
cIothin.<i'  ])Ut  on.  and  <i'i\-en  a  little  soup,  he  was  .-uiiicieni  ly 
restored  to  .answei'  (luestion-. 

I>ai'k  had  not  found  the  Imlian-^  and  wa>  makinu'  for  h'oi't 
I^ro\'iderice.  Thither  l-'ranklin  detei'minedi  to  follow  him 
with  two  of  his  nien.  the  others  \-olunteei'in'j,'  to  remain 
until  succour  should  he  -cut  to  them.  ( 'wiim,'  to  an  un- 
fortunate accident  to  hi-  .-now— hoe-,  Franklin  wa-  oMluid 
to  return  to  cam])  the  next  da\',  sendin,u:  on  hi-  com})anions 
alone. 

The  ])oor  wretches  tliat  had  keen  left  at  Fort  Fnter])ri,-e 
\\'ere  in  -uch  a  weakeneil  -late  that  it  was  with  diflicult}'  that 
hranklin  could  roii-e  them  to  an\'  exertion. 

"We  -aw,"  write>  Franklin,  "a  herd  o\  reindeer  -]^ortinL!; 
on  the  i'i\-ei'.  atujut  half  a  mile  fr()m  the  hou-e  :  they  I'c- 
maiiK-d  there  a  loim-  time.  Init  none  of  the  ])ar'y  felt  thiMU- 
si'l\-f-  -tronu'  enough  to  u'o  after  them,  nor  wa-  thei'e  on^  of 
u-  who  c()uld  ha\'e  fired  a  uun  without  ri'-tinu'  it." 

J/mhti'cii  Idim'  day-  ])a--i'd  .-jow-jy  ]  ly,  dui'iuLi'  which  ihev 
ciiijiu'cd  fi'iL:hiful  ])i-i\-at  ion-,  when  Dr.  Hichard-on  ;md 
IkpliiuMi  rc;ichi'd  them.  jj,-reatly  enfecklcd  an<!  cmacialcd. 
"The  piMMnr  i>ari  iciilarly  r<-iii;u'ke(  I  thf  -cpiilcli!';:!  t.mc-  of 
our  \-o!cc-,  wliidi  jif  rc(  jUc~!  cd  of  11-  til  m.'ikr  tiioiv  chcri'fnh 
il  po--!!i!c,  !mi'o.ii-.ci(iii-  t  iiiit  hi-  own  pai't  ook  of  '  he  -;!mf  kc\  ." 


leMinil'ii     il|\'lii( 


!ari!'!ilue    he    Iia< 


I.  -;:\  -    i'  ra 


1'I!AM<]J.\'S     ^FJ'Oyi)    ,I()IIL\EY  89 

!iii,  "I  and  \\\\  three  coiiipanioiis  i-;u'en()usly  de\'oure(l  our 
shares.  a<  it  was  the  first  morsel  of  flesli  any  of  us  had  lasted 
for  tliirty-oue  days,  unl(>ss,  indecMl,  the  small,  j^iistly  ])artieles 
which  we  found  occasionally  adherin<^  U)  the  pounded  hones 
may  he  called  fle>h." 

Dr.  ]{ichardson  then  told  of  the  ti'a,u;ic  death  of  Hood,  who 
had  heen  imu'dereil  hy  the  IrocjiKjis,  2\Iichel,  whose  threaten- 
in,u' deinetuiour  the\' had  note(l  for  some  da\'s,  and  whom  they 
afterwards  suspectecl  of  ha\'in,u;  put  an  end  U)  two  other 
nieml)er>  of  the  party.  Tnder  the  circunist;uices,  as  a  mat- 
tei'  {)i  self-preservation,  it  was  deemcnl  necc^ssary  to  end  the 
Indian's  life,  and  this  J)r.  Richardson  did  with  a  ])istol- 
.-^hot. 

The  day  after  the  arrival  of  Hichai'dson  and  II(^pl)urn.  two 
of  th.e  ])arty  died.  Finally,  early  m  Xovemher,  Indian 
n!essen!j;<'rs  sent  hy  I>ack  hrou^^ht  the  longed-for  relief,  the 
Indians  ■■e\'incin.L!;  lunnaiiitx'  that  wouM  ha\'e  d(jne  honor 
to  tlie  mo~;t  ci\-ilized  ])eo])le."  \\'hen  the  ])arT>'  were  sufli- 
ci(Mitly  i'e-t()i'ed  to  health  with  food  and  kind  iun'sin<i\  they 
startetl  for  Fort  ( 'hi])ewyan.  where  they  ]'(>main(Ml  until  .June 
of  the  foUowin.u'  year.  \n  .lul\'  tliey  reached  "^'ork  Factory, 
whence  three  year-^  hefore  they  had  starteil  out. 

In  this  i-emarka!)!e  journe>-  of  (.)vei'  five  thousand  five 
hundreil  and  fifty  miles,  human  eniluranee  ;md  i)atience  had 
heeu  ])u;  to  the  uttermost  test:  th(>  won.derful  coui'a,u,'e  :md 
fortitude  with  wh.ich  the<e  heroe-;  l)ra\'e(l  ;i  fate  that  thi'eat- 
ened  them  at  e\-ery  <te]X  mak(>  thi>  one  of  the  most  remark- 
aiile  feat  <  in  Arcl  ic  histor>'. 

A  mo!"(^  cheerful  jjicture  present-  it«'lf  in  h^i-anklin'^  second 
\'nyau'e.  and.  thouuh  fort  unctt^ly  not  so  tr:ui'ie  as  the  hiv-t.  it 
nevei'thele,--   denii )n-lr;i1  es    his   remai'kahh'   le;ider.-lii]). 

ill  eonjuiiction  with  tlu'  Ijeechey  ext>e(!it  ion  in  the  IHnssn/n 
and  Pari'y"-  e\])edilion  with  th<'  lli'hi  and  l^'irii.  a  ll;iril  ex- 
])ed;tlon   wa<   pi'omote:!  v.\n\,   upon   rer[Ue-t   of   Franklin,    ])Ut 


90  THE  ailEAT    WIllTK  yoiiTii 

under  liis  (■luir^(\  Tlu'  outline  of  operations  was  for  this 
])arty  to  (l(>seen(l  the  AlaelccMizie  Piiver  to  \\\v  sea,  and  tliere 
to  (h\'id(^  the  force,  one  section  to  explore  the  coast  east  to 
the  (\)p))erniine,  while  the  othei'  should  take  a  westerly 
coiu'se  and  round  Ice  Cajx'  and,  if  possilile,  Behring  Strait. 
Profiling  by  i):ist  ex])(M'ience,  the  l)arty  W(M"e  amply  ])ro- 
visioned  from  the  outset;  in  fact,  a  delay  of  some  months 
was  r(Hiuired  to  secure  the  n('C(>ssary  amomit  of  pemmican. 

Undauided  by  th(>  hardships  endure(i  on  the  previous 
voyage,  Back  and  liicliardson  vohmleered  again  to  accom- 
])any  Franklin;  AJr.  Ivendall,  a,  mate  in  the  na\'3',  and  Mr. 
T.  Drununond,  a  naturalist,  were  also  of  the  l)arty.  Kour 
carefully  constructed  boats  Vv'(a'e  sent  aln^ul  in  one  of  the 
Hudson  Ha\'  (/ompaii\''s  ships,  and  in  July,  182."),  the 
Franklin  party  reacluMl  Fort  ("hipeuwan. 

They  i'(\tched  (lr(\it  lj(\ir  Lake  without  incident,  and  there 
erect(>d  winter  ([uartc^i's  uiuua-  th.e  direction  of  P)ack  and 
Dease,  tli(>  latter  being  detailcMl  !)y  t!i(^  Hudson  P^ay  (\)nij)ai!y 
to  assist  (he  ex];edition.  Alth;)ua,li  the  season  Avas  wA\ 
advanced,  l''i'anklin  set  out,  with  a.  small  ]iai-1y,  to  make  a 
six-da\'  journ(\\'  dnwii  the  Macl-Lcnzie  for  the  puri)ose  of 
examining  the  state  of  th(^  Polar  S(vi.  They  re;u'he(l  an 
ishuid  to  which  lie  ga\'e  the  nani(>  of  ( !arry  Island.  ;uid  as- 
cended the  summit,  from  which  "lh(>  sea  apjx^ain^l  in  all  its 
majesty,  entirely  U'l.^^'  fi'om  \c<\  and  without  any  visible 
obstructions  to  its  miA'igatiori,  and  never  was  a  i^i'ospccl 
mo!'(^  gi'atiiying  than  tliat  which  lay  open  to  us,"  Here 
the  >i!k('ii  I  nioii  .lack  ma('(>  by  the  hands  of  Anne  Pordcii 
was  wnrwrlfd,  the  news  of  who>e  death  had  but  laJely  reacheil 
her  hii,-!  )V'.\v  \. 

"i  wiil  not,"  writes  I'^ranklin,  "attem])t  to  descrilx^  my 
MiiotiMi!-.  ;i<  it    expanded  to  the  breeze." 

P.y  tiie  7ih  (if  Septem!)er  the  parl\'  liad  returneil  to  l''ort 
I'l-anklin,    and    the    king    winter   was    passed   in   comparatl\'e 


ijescext  of  Tin-:  macke.xzie  eiv eu  01 

comfort.  Ev(My  effort  was  made  to  amusc^  and  interest  the 
men,  tlie  entire  number  consisting  of  nearly  fifty,  including 
guides,  interpreters,  Canadian  voyageurs,  and  Indians. 

The  following  June,  ]<S2(J,  preparations  were  made  for  the 
i!!i])()rtant  work  of  the  ex])edition.  Descimding  the  Mac- 
kenzi(^  in  four  l)oats  to  the  Polar  Sea,  the  jnirty  here  divided, 
Ca]:)tain  Franklin  and  Lieutenant  Back  with  fourtecm  men 
])ushing  to  the  westward,  Dr.  Richardson  with  Air.  K(>ndall 
as>ist<Ml  by  \v\\  men  in  two  boats  going  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion toward  tlie  C'o])permine   River. 

Soon  after  joarting,  Franklin's  ])arty  had  an  unfortunate 
enc(juntei'  with  Eskimos,  who  pillaged  their  st(jres  and 
caused  tlnnn  considerable  annoyance.  ]\Iaking  his  way 
westward.  Ik^  encountered  dii'ty  w(>atlier  and  ])enetrating 
fogs,  which  ke])t  the  ])oor  shi\'ering  men  ])er])etually  en- 
vel()])ed  in.  moist'are.  IIowev(>r,  lie  r(\iched  latitude  70^  24' 
X.,  longitude  \\\f  '.M'  \\'.,  which  ])oint  of  hmd  he  namcMl 
aft(>r  Lieutenant  l^ack.  \\v  had  sur\'eyed  t)u'(>e  hundr(>d  and 
sev(m1y-1'our  miles  of  coast. 

It  was  now  deeme(l  advisable  to  return,  and  by  Se]>teml)er 
))1  the  i)arty  re;iched  Fort  Franklin,  where  Jiichardson  and 
hi-  ])ai'ty  had  retui'ued  some  days  (vu'liei'  after  a  successful 
voyage  of  fi\'e  huudi'cd  mile-<.  or  nine  hundi'cd  and  two  \)\'  the 
co;ist-line. 

Tlie  ])ai'ty  undei'  Richardson  had  been  favoureil  witli  good 
weatlii-r.  auil.  thouu'h  detained  by  an  occasional  storm.  wer(> 
on  the  whole  iiio-t  f()rtunat(\  <  )ne  of  these  shelters,  Refuge 
("ove.    Dr.    Richai'd>on    desciilx^s  :  — 

■■M>'riads  of  m()-(|uit()es,  which  i'e]io<ed  among  the  grass, 
rose  in  clouds  Avlien  disturlxnl.  and  gave  u^  much  annoyance. 
]\rany  snow  bii'ds  were  liatcliimi'  on  the  ])()int  :  and  we  saw 
>wan<.  ('anada  geese,  eider,  king.  Ardic,  and  >urf  ducfis  ; 
S'>\-(M';il  glaucous.  >ih-ery,  black-headeil.  and  ivoi'y  gulls, 
together    with    terns    and    northern    divei's.     .<ome    laugiiing 


THE  CHEAT  wiirrE  yoiriTi 


<i-(M'S('  pnssiMl  to  the  iiorthw'iird  in  the  ('V('uiii<i;,  which  may  bo 
(•()ii>i(lci'c(l  as  a  sure  iiidicnjion  of  himl  in  tiiat  (Tn'cct  ion." 

I)ui'in,ti'  the  second  winter  passed  at  I'orl  Frankhn,  tlie 
thermometer  I'ell  as  low  as  oS''  helow  zero.  The  l^n,uii>hmeu 
spent  their  time  in  makin.u,'  scientific  observations  and  com- 
])lelin,ii  tlieir  data  and  records.  Food  and  warmth,  com- 
bined with  <i;ood  health,  made  it  i)ass  comi)arative!\'  ([uickly, 
and  in  the  s])rini;'  the  ]>ai't\'  made  their  wa\'  back  to  l']n,<2;lan(L 

Ilonoursof  the  mo>t  distin,tiui>he(l  character  awaite<l  Frank- 
lin upon  his  return.  d\j  the  map  of  Xorth  .Vmerica  lie  had 
adde(l  no  1('>--  than  tweh'e  hundred  miles,  for  which  the  nation 
rendei'ed  him  enthu^lastic  applause.  In  bS2*,)  he  was  kni,!i,'hted, 
( )\ford  confei'i'ed  on  him  the  d(\u'i'ee  of  l).(\L.,  and  the 
( ieouraphical  Societ\'  of  Paris  awarded  him  a  ,u'old  medal. 

in  \i\<  second  m;u'riau'e  Franklin  was  most  h)rtunate  in 
wimiinu,-  a  cultured,  tra.velleil  woman  of  wealtli.  Jane  (irilHn, 
who>e  >\'mpathies  were  entirel\'  in  hai'inony  with  his  own, 
and  whose  d"Votion  to  \n<  memory  kept  alive  h)r  tweK'c 
>(':irs  the  interest  of  the  world  in  ceaseless  efforts  to  ascertain 
lii<  iate.  'i'he  succeedimr  year-  imtil  the  la^t  ill-htteil  \-oya,u'e 
were  most  happily  di\-id('d  between  a  cruise  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean, in  which  k'l'anklin  connnap.d<'d  the  Ixnitihoit:  with 
such  plea-iu'c  to  tiie  crew  and  oflicers  that  the  ship  won  the 
ch('(-i'ful  >ol)i'i(juet  of  (\lislliil  li'tiinh/iir  and  t  he  /•'a/Y^Z/'xr'  of 
!■' rinil:li II .  and  the  L!.()\-enii)i'>hip  of  the  colony  of  \'an  Die- 
men's  Land.  (>!■  'i'a-mania,  a  po>t  he  hekl  for  se\'en  years 
\\-ii  \\  ;idmiralile  -;uc( •(>■;-.  j-'i^anklin  had  onl\'  been  a  lew  niont  lis 
in  l\iii:l;iMd  when  the  Admii-altx'.  thi'ou<i,h  Sii'  John  I^.ai'row, 
U)V  ni;iny  ye;ir<  an  enl  hu-;ia-1  Ic  ])ro!noter  of  Arctic  eiitei'- 
prbe.  dec'drd  upon  .•mother  expedition  to  effect  the  di-co\'ei'y 
of  the  \or!liWe-t  P;i--aL!.'e.  !t  1-  recorded  that  the  I'^iist  L(jrd 
of  ill''  Admiralty,  l.oi'il  1  !a' idiic_il  on.  in  con  \'<  ■!•.<!  n'j,'  \\"itli  Sir 
Ivlw.'ii'd  l';i!T\-  upon  1  he  ;i'j\'l-;ibilit\' of  offering;  I''i'ankrm  the 
po-1  of  cominaiidin'j,'  oHiri'r,  remarked: 


j.j.sy  joriixEY  OF  sin  joiix   fuanklin       '.'■> 

"I  sec  I''r;inkliii  is  sixty  yoars  old.  ()ui>;ht  \xv  U)  \i'\  him 
•i'o?"  to  which  I'lUTv  ;uis\v(M-('(l, — 

"Aly  lord,  lie  is  tlu^  best  num  for  tlu^  ])ost  I  know,  ;iii<l  if 
you  don't  k^t  him  go,  he  will,  1  am  certain,  di(>  of  disap- 
pointment." 

In  an  intcM'vicnv  with  Franklin,  Lord  Haddington  spoke 
again  of  his  age  being  sixty,  and  addcMJ, — 

"You  might  l)e  cont(Mit  with  your  laui'c^ls,  after  having 
done  so  nnich  for  3'our  count r}-,"  to  which  Frandviin  replied 
with  all  the  (^agerness  of  youth, — 

"No,  no!    my  lord,  only  fifty-niiu^  I" 

Lord  Brougham,  when  told  that  the  command  had  becui 
acc(-pte(l  by  Franklin,  remark(Ml,  -~- 

"Arctic  work  gc^ts  into  the  blood  of  these  m(Mi.  l'h(\v 
aiti't  help  going  again  if  tlu\v  get  a  chance."" 

Th(>  Krchns  and  Terror  wow  both  ships  that  ha,d  >orn 
many  \'(Virs' sei'vice  in  Ai'ctic  and  Antarctic  seas.  l'h(\\'  \ver(> 
])rovisi()ned  for  three  y(>ars  and  supplied  wU  h  e\'(M\v  facility 
for  scientific  and  geogi"a|)hical  ob-('r\'at  ions.  The  com- 
bintnl  crews  and  ohicers  jiumber  one  hmidi'ed  ;ui<l  thirty- 
eight  souls.  In  c()m])an\'  \\'ith  the  t  i'a,ns])oi't,  Ihrrrdo  Jxtiiar, 
the  ex])edil ion  sailed  fi'om  ( ircHaihithe  on  tlu^  Lhh  of  May, 
IS  15. 

The  4th  of  -luly,  they  r(vich(Hl  ^^'hal(>  Fish  Islatid,  near 
Disco,  in  ( Ireenland,  and  here  the  Hdrrcio  Jiurior  transf(M're(l 
to  the  Kn'l)t(s  and  Terror  lu-r  extra  stores,  retui'iiing  to  J'.ng- 
land  with  th(>  last  m(vsag(>  from  Franklin  ever  rec(>ived  by 
the  Admii-ah;,'. 

"Tlu^  sh.i|is  ai'e  now  complele  with  sup])lies  of  cyovy  kind 
f()r  thr(M'  yiai's;  they  ai'e  thei'cl'ore  x'ery  (1(M'1),  Init  hai)|)ily 
W(^  ha\'e  no  r(>;vson  to  expect  much  .-ea,  as  we  pioceed  fui'tlier."' 

^\ith  confidence^  and  (Mit hu--i;e-n).  .h>!ni  branlvlin  tui'iied 
to  the  north,  "much  luMter  in  ii^'aitli.""  Lieutenant  Fairhnhn!' 
had  wrilt(Mi,   "than  ^\■hcu  we  left  h()nu\  and  rcalb'  jooj-;-  ten 


04 


THE   (rllEAT    W'JIITK  yORTU 


vfai'-  younsi'T.  He  takes  an  activo  part  in  (-vr'nihing  that 
g'oo  on.  ami  iii.-  lonii'  (-xixTif-ncf  in  suc-h  -ci'vicc  niakt'S  him  a 
niiot    \'alua[il('   aiivi>cr."' 

On  the  2i)th  of  July,  the  Prince  <if  Wtilo^.  a  whahnn;  vessel, 
saw  the  lu'(j  >i!ip-  in  Melville  P)ay.  waiiin,L!;  a  favourahle 
opportunity  for  ])'u.-hin,ii,'  throudi  the  ■"iniiidle  iec-.""  ^i.u'iia.ls 
■were  (■xchanu'ej  ami  an  in\'itation  extended  t(j  Franklin  to 
dine  witli  th(-  caijtain  of  the  w'harni.a;  .-hij").  A  hree/e  .-pi'iim- 
ini;  u)").   ihe    Erfims    ami    Ttrrur    parted    eoni].)any    with    the 

\>  if  allurinu'l}'  h(-ekoned  liy  that  fatal  enefiantress,  tlie 
"  Lady  of  the  A[i-r>,"  Sir  J(jhn  J-d'ankiin  and  his  ^u'allant  (■re^v 
>i!eKily  uhidicil  iiit(j  the  unknown,  aivl  fi'(jni  that  hi^iu'  were 
l(j-t  to  the  workl  fore\'er. 


CHAPTER  Vn 

8e:ircli  for  Sir  Jolm  Franklin.  —  Captain  Kcllctt.  —  Captain  ^Mooro. 

—  Dr.  Kichanlson.-^Dr.  ]{ac.  —  .^ir  J.  C.  Ilos^.  — Air.  Parker. 

—  Dr.  (io()(Pir.  —  Collinson  and  ArC'kiic.  — Tke  Fdi.c.  —  Pi'iiicc 
Alht  ft.  — Conin.iandfd  by  (_'karh.\s  C  Fursytli.  —  Cai)tain  Austin's 
>(iuadr(jn.  - —  ( 'a})1ain   Oniniancy.  —  Picntciiai!!    Slici'ai'd  Osl)t)i'n. 

—  Connnandcr  Cat(jr.  —  CirinncU  cxpiMUtiou  un(U'r  j)("  lluvcn. 

Xo  ti(Uii<i;s  of  tlic  Krchus  and  Terror  luiviug  n^acluMJ  En.iiPmd 
by  the  (;\o<c  of  LS47,  ti'rcat  an.xicty  was  felt  as  to  tlu^  whcrc- 
a'i)outs  and  fate  of  tlic  niissiii.i;;  s}u])s.  TIk*  ,<i(_>v('rnni(:-id  ini- 
inciliatcly  took  RK^asurcs  t(_)  outfit  three  s(^archin,a;  ])arties. 
Hie  fii'st  was  to  ,u'o  westward  to  I^jehrin.Li;  Strait,  and  tliero 
inr(>t  ihe  shi])s  ^\■iIh  a.-^si-tanee,  should  llu-y  ha\"e  keen  suc- 
cessful in  making  the  okjeci  of  their  N'oya.ii'e,  and  for  tliis 
])urp(.)se  Captain  kPau'v  Iv(dlett  coinniandani;'  the  Ilrrall  and 
('apiain  !Moore  in  t!ie  .--hij)  JHortr  left  J'higland  in  January, 

ksis. 

The  second,  was  to  ])0  an  ovei'land  and  koat  exjx'ditioii 
will)  its  ok)j('('l  to  exploi'c  llie  eoa-t  of  the  Arctic  Sea  ketwe('n 
th(-  Mack'enzie  aial  ( 'opipcrniinr  ri\'c!'s,  uib'lcr  l!ie  leadtrrshi]) 
(>i  tiiat  faithfvil  coin])anlon  and  friend  of  Sir  J(dm  i'rankhn, 
J)r.  Sii' John  liichai  di.-i)n,  acconptanicd  ky  Piae.  who  liad  kut 
lately  retiu'ued  from  ki-  memoraiile  jnurnc}'  ol'  ]N!d-lS47. 

The  third  cxiitdilion  was  uaidcr  Sir  .lame>  (.  "lai'k  lio-s 
in  ikie  sliijis  1''.  ri(  r  jir  !■■■'■  andi  I  nn  siiijntor.  with  in>t  !'Uction>  to 
make  ioi'  Lanca-lir  Sound  and  kkirrow  Strait,  exanhne  all 
traek.<  of  the  mi--inii'  -iii|>-  we-tward  and,  reinle!'  relief  if  the 
ship-  -liould  ke  di<e()\-ei'ed  imprisoned  in  the  ice. 

Owinji;    to    the    p(K)r    sailin.u'    ([Ualitie>    of    the    J'lii/\r    and 

95 


90  THE   GREAT    WIUTE   XOliTll 

I  feral'/,  \\\v  shi])s  were  \ui;il)l('  to  rciich  hi^h  l;ilitu(l(^s  in  tiin(» 
to  ])('iu'trat('  to  lli(>  northward  tliat  season,  and  not  nntil 
tIic  followinji;  .Jul\',  in  company  with  the  Xaiic!/  Ddirsou,  a 
plcasm'c  yaclit  l)('l()nt;;in,<2;  lo  Rohert  Sheldon,  l^s([.,  did  they 
])nrsue  the  main  object  oi'  their  (>x])e(htion.  July  IS,  1849, 
tliey  left  ( 'hamisso,  and  on  the  2()th  th<\v  were  olT  Cape  Lis- 
])urn  ;  (i\'e  da}'s  later  the}'  ])assed  Icy  Point.  Here  they 
despatched  the  IhrnUCs  ])innace  and  three  other  Ijoats,  witii 
a  ])arty  of  twenty-five  men  with  thi'ee  months'  ])r(n'isions, 
under  connnand  of  Ijieutenant  Pullen,  whose  instructions 
were  to  coim(>ct  with  llu^  Richardson  ])arty,  one  division 
in  two  whale-boats  (o  extend  the  search  to  the  MackcMizie 
R.i\'er,  ascend  that  ri\'er,  and  return  homeward  by. Fort  Hop(> 
and  Yoi'k  I-'aclory;  the  remainin,<i'  division  to  I'eturn  to  the 
ren(le/\-()Us  of  th(>  ships  at  ( 'hamisso   Island. 

The  llii'dbl  and  Plonrr  cruis(>(l  noi'thward  as  far  as  the 
ice  would  permit,  tlien  explored  tlu'  coast-line  in  detail.  On 
the  7th  of  Au<>:ust,  t  he  Herald  siii'hted  new  l(M'i'it()ry.  .Runninu; 
closc^  to  the  island,  the\'  h)und  it  b;irren,  and  for  tlu>  most 
])art  of  inacce<sibl(>  ti-ranite  cliffs. 

The  Saneij  Daii-soii  and  the  return  boats  u.ndei'  LieutiMiant 
J'ullen  rejoined  the  U<  rabi  by  the  21lh  of  .\.u,u,'ust.  They  had 
j)ai'ted  company  with  the  two  whale-boats  at  Dease  Inlet. 
The>'  had  louiid  no  traces  of  the  l-'ranklin  expedition,  but  had 
left  deposits  of  pi'ox'i^ions  at   inter\'als  alonii'  the  route. 

Tlie  ioliowint;'  months  win'e-  s])ent  in  wiiitei'  ([uartei's,  and, 
as  soon  ;i>  the  weather  i)ermitteil,  in  c;u'eful  examination  of 
the  inlet-  and  coa^t  from  Icy  ('ape  to  Point.  P>ai'i'ow  in  tlu> 
hope  ol  f!ndin',i:  t  r;ice-~  of  the  mi><inu'  ])ai't\'.  J)i-;ap])ointed 
at  ;i  fruit  li'-s  voy;!!,',;-.  t  h.e  >lilps  ret  ui'ned  to  I'Jiiiiand  in  ( )ct()ber, 
IS,-)!). 

bi  lii<  ofiirial  ri'port  to  the  Secret.ai'y  of  t  he  Admii'alty,  Sir 
•  lohn  Ibch.anbon  ui\-(--<  ;m  excellent  summary  of  the  results 
ol    the  -(•.'■Olid  expfdition.      He  says  in  p.arl  :  — 


lilCHARDSOX's    liEPORT  97 

"In  the  voyage  ])etw(H'n  th(^  Alackenzie  and  Coppermine,  I 
carefully  execut(Hl  the-ir  loi'(lshi])s'  instructions  with  respect  to 
the  examination  of  tlie  coast-line,  and  Ixn-ame  fully  con- 
vincfMl  that  no  ships  had  passed  within  view  of  the  mainland. 
It  is,  ind(H>d,  nearly  im]M)ssible  that  they  could  have  done 
so  unobserved  by  some  of  the  numerous  parti(\s  of  Eskimos 
on  X\\v  look-out  for  whales.  We  werc^,  moreover,  informed 
by  the  Eskimos  of  Back's  Inlet,  tliat  the  ice  had  been  press- 
ing on  their  shor(>  nearly  the  whole  summer  ;  and  its  clos(4y 
packcnl  condition  when  we  left  it  on  the  4th  of  Septemlx.^r 
made  it  highly  im])robable  that  it  would  open  for  ship  navi- 
gation lat(a'  in  the  season.  I  regretted  extremely  that  the 
state  of  the  ice  ])re vented  me  from  crossing  to  Wollaston 
Land,  and  thus  completing,  in  on(^  season,  the  whole  scheme 
of  their  lordships'  instructions.  The  opening  between 
A\'()llaston  and  Mctoria  Lands  has  always  appeared  to  m(> 
to  possess  great  Intercast,  for  through  it  the  flood-tide  (^\'i- 
dend}'  sets  int<_)  Coronation  Clulf,  diverging  to  the  westward 
by  tlie  Dolijhin  and  Union  Strait,  and  to  the  eastward  r(jund 
('a])e  AlexandiM'.  l^y  the  fifth  claus(>  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
in-tructions,  h(>  is  dircH'ted  to  >t(>er  southwestward  from 
('a]ie  Walker,  winch  would  lead  liim  nearly  in  the  direction 
of  the  strait  in  (luestion.  If  Sir  John  found  Barrow  Strait 
as  open  as  when  Sii-  I-'-dward  Parry  parsed  it  on  fom'  ])re- 
\'ious  occasions,  T  am  con\'inc(Ml  that  icoin])lying  as  (exactly 
as  !i(>  could  with  his  instructions  and  without  looking  iiU(.) 
AVellington  Sound,  or  other  ojienings  cithei'  to  tlie  south  or 
north  of  l^ari'ow  Strait  ^  he  ])ushed  directl}'  west  to  ('a])e 
V\'alk('j',  and  fi'om  thence  soutliwestwards.  If  so,  the  ships 
were  prob;vbly  shut  U])  on  some  (.)f  the  passages  b(>tween  \dc- 
tofia,   B)anks,   and   A\'olla<ton   Lands. 

"l)eing  a]')prehensi\'e  that  the  ])oats  I  left  on  th(^  coast 
W(»ulil  be  brok(-n  u])  by  the  Eskimos,  and  being,  m()r(M)\-er, 
of  o[)ini()n   that   the  examination  of  the  oi)ening  in  Cjuestion 


98  THE  GREAT    WHITE  NORTH 

ini.ti,ht  b(>  safely  and  cihcicMitly  ])erforin(Hl  in  tlu^  only  rc^main- 
ni.Li;  boat  1  had  fit  iV)r  the  trans})ort  from  B(>ai'  Lak(>  to  the 
Coppefnhne,  1  (k^ternuned  to  entrust  this  ini]K)rtant  service 
to  Mr.  Ka(\,  who  volunteered,  and  whose  ability  and  Z(>al 
in  tlu>  cause  1  cannot  too  highly  connncMuL  lie  sekn'ted  an 
excellent  crew,  all  of  them  ex])erienced  voya,u,-eurs  and  capa- 
ble of  findin<>;  their  waj"  back  to  l^ear  Lake  without  fi'uides, 
should  any  unforeseen  accident  de})rive  them  of  their  leader. 

"  In  the  month  of  March  (1849)  a  sufficient  su])])ly  of  ])em- 
mican,  and  other  nec(\ssai'y  stores,  with  the  e(iui}Mnents  of 
t!ie  boat,  wcM'e  trans])orte(l  over  the  snow  on  d()ii-sledu;(>s 
to  ;;.  navi,u;able  ])art  of  llu^  Kendall  River,  and  left  tluM'e  under 
the  chart^'e  of  two  men.  As  soon  as  the  l)eas(>  broke  up  in 
Juuj',  Ml'.  Kae  would  foll(_)^\',  with  th(>  boat,  the  rest  of  the 
crew,  an<l  a  ])ai'ty  of  Indian  hunters,  and  would  descend 
the  ( 'oi)permine  lii\-er  about  the  middle  of  .ju!_\',  at  which 
time  the  sea  ti-ene!'all\'  l)e,u,ins  to  bi'cak  uj).  \\v  would  then, 
as  soon  as  possible,  ci'oss  fi'om  Cape  Krusenstern  to  W'ollaston 
Land,  and  endeavor  to  ])ene1rate  to  the  nort h.wai'd,  (M'ectin<i' 
siii;n;il-colunuis,  and  makin.u;  deposits  on  conspicuous  luvid- 
lands.  and  especially  on  the  north  shore  of  I)anks"  Land, 
should  he  be  fortunate  enough  to  attain  that  coa^t.  lie  was 
fui'tliei'  insti'ucled  not  to  hazard  the  safetx'  of  his  ])arty  by 
i'(-m:uniii,ii  too  lonj;-  on  the  noilh  side  of  l)ol|>irm  and  Liiion 
Strait,  and  to  be  miidcd  in  his  mo\'einent>  by  the  season.  I  he 
state  of  the  ice.  and  such  intelljo'cnce  as  he  miirlit  obtain 
from  the  l']skimo<.  He  wa^  al<o  riMjuestcd  to  en.iiau'e  one  or 
moi'e  fninilies  of  Indian  hunteis  to  ]>a--s  t  he  summei' ot  bSO.") 
on  the  blinks  of  the  ( 'oi)p(M'niine  l!i\'er,  to  be  ready  to  assist 
any  party  that  may  dii'cct   their  course  that  waw" 

'i'he  ilth  ol  .Inly.  bSiS,  hiimd  the  Eiilrrprisi  ami  I urcsliijutDr 
of  fill'  third  e\|M'dilion  at  the  Hanisli  settlement  oi'  I'per- 
na\'il\  :  IVom  I  hi-  poiM  Sii' ,lame<  ( 'lai'k  IJosswrolea  letter  to 
the   ISriti.-h    Adnhraltv  >tatinL!,'   that    after    pa->in,u,'  a    second 


^77.'    JAMJ:S    CLAllK    BOSS  99 

winter  near  Port  Leopold,  should  no  traces  of  Sir  John 
l''ranklin\s  i)ar{y  be  discovc^-ed,  ]\v  would  S(uid  tho  Invest igdtur 
under  Captain  Bird  back  to  England  and  ])roceed  with  the 
search  alone. 

This  causiMl  ^-reat  uneasiness  at  the  Admiralty,  and  the 
Xorth  Slur  was  at  once  des])atched  with  a  supply  of  extra 
storeys  and  instruction  to  Eoss  to  remain  in  company  with 
\\\v  rnvvsiiijator  and  not  follow  out  the  desi<2;n  cxpresscMl  in 
his  letter.  The  Xorth  Star  was  further  instructed  that 
should  slu^  fail  to  reach  the  slh])s,  stores  were  to  be  left  at  the 
fai-tliest  point  slie  could  I'cach.  in  safety,  and  then  she  should 
return  to  England.  Though  (explicitly  warned  against 
getting  beset  in  th(^  ice,  the  season  of  1849  passed,  and  the 
Xorth  Star  did  not  return,  thus  causing  great  anxiety  in 
I'^n gland  as  to  he^r  safety. 

To  return  to  tlu^  Entcrprinc  and  Investigator,  these  two 
shi])s,  after  k^aving  Upc^rnavik,  had  found  v(My  unfavourable 
conditions  in  the  ice,  which  necessitated  towing  the  shii)s 
or  proccHMling  slowl.y  und(>r  light  winds  and  calms.  By  the 
2od  of  August,  tlu>  ships  had  reached  Pond  J^ay,  having 
sustained  se\'ere  shocks  through  ice  pi-essure  and  other  dis- 
couraging conditions.  Tlic-y  kept  close  to  the  shore,  firing 
gun.s  and  sending  u])  signals  at  fre(]U(Mit  intervals,  but  no 
sign  of  Iv-kinios  oi'  otlier  human  beings  w(M'(^  discovered. 

rt)on  reaching  Possession  Jiay,  a  ])arty  was  s(H"it  on  shore 
to  search  for  traces  of  the  exjxMlition.  l)ut  nothing  was  found 
(>xc(^i)t  ;i  ])a]ier  k>ft  thc^re  l)y  Sir  Edwai'd  I^arr^y  on  the  same 
day  (August  oO)  in  LSI 9.  Again  at  Ciipe  York  another 
]')ai'ty  went  ashore,  and.  tliough  no  traces  wen^  iound,  a  con- 
spicuous mai'k  was  (M'CM'ted  for  the  benefit  of  aii\'  othcM'  i)arty 
that  might   I'rach  thei'(\      'Lhe  ships  tlien  proceeded. 

'A\'e  ^to()(l  over,"  wi'ites  Sii'  James  Loss,  "toward  Noi'th- 
enst  ('m]);'  until  we  ("une  in  with  tlie  (Mlge  of  a  jiack.  too 
dense   for  us   to   ])enetrat(^,   l\'ing   Ijetween   us   and   Leopold 


100 


THE  (,RKAT  WHITE  yoivni 


Island,  alioul  fourteen  miles  broad  ;  we  therefore  coasted  the 
north  shore  of  Barrow  Strait,  to  seek  a  liarl)our  further  to 
the  westwai'd.  and  to  examine  the  numerous  inlets  (jf  that 
shore.  Alaxwell  Bay,  and  several  smaller  indentations,  were 
thoi'ou<i'hly  ex])lored,  and,  although  we  ^ot  near  the  entrance 
of  \\'ellington  Channel,  the  firm  harriei'  of  ice  \vliich  stretched 
across  it,  and  which  liad  not  hrokcui  away  this  sea>on,  con- 
^•ince(l  us  all  was  im])racticable  in  that  direction.  We  now- 
stood  t(j  the  southwe>t  to  seek  for  a  harbour  near  CajX'  \\r\\- 
nell.  but  found  a  hea\'y  body  of  ice  (\\tendinu'  from  the  west 
of  ( 'oi'uwallis  T.-land.  ( 'oast  n,u;  alon^  the  ])ack  dui'ini;; 
stormy  and  fojiRA'  weathei',  we  had  difliculty  in  kee])in<i;  tiie 
shi])-  free  durin.u'  the  ni,uhts,  foi-  I  believe  so  ureat  a.  (juan- 
tit\'  of  ice  wa~^  ne\"er  befcji'e  seen  in  Pjai'row  Strait  at  tlii'^ 
})eriod    of    the   season."" 

P)y  the  11th  of  Sejitember.  the  shi])-  found  wintei'  f[U;ii'ters 
in  the  harbour  of  Port  Leopold,  and  almo.-t  innnediately  tee 
ice  pack  (•lo>ed  in  and  foi'med  a  com])lete  barrier  hir  the  I'c- 
mainder  of  tlie  wintei'.  \'arious  exi)loi-iiiL;,'  and  >ui'\'eyin^ 
journeys  were  undertaken  dui'in^'  this  winter  and  the  coa-t 
cai'etull}'  examined  in  all  direction.-,  but  no  trace  of  Franklin 
()]■  hi-  >hips  wa>  di.-co\'ei'e(l. 

Idie  crew  cauiiht  in  tra])>  a  numbei-  of  white  foxes,  and 
knowinti"  how  far  the-e  .animal-  will  roam  in  -carcli  n\  f(io(l, 
the  men  cla-jH'd  round  the  animal-"  neck-  coppci'  collai">.  on 
which  Were  written  tlu'  po-i'ioii  of  tin-  -hip-  and  dcpdt-  nf 
l)ri '\'i-ion.-.  and  the  creatui'e-  \\"fre  -et  a1  libcrt\"  in  tiit-  Impe 
they  WoiiJd  lie  cauu'ht    by  -dme  of  the  ill-i.ated   p;it'ty. 

I  )iirini:-  April  and  Ma\\  (  ';ipt  .-iiii  Po--.  acciimpaiiicd  b\-  Licu- 
teii;int  M'f'lintock  ;ind  ;i  paiMy  of  twip.-c  men.  carefully  ex- 
plorcil  ll.c  c(  ,;i-l-lilie  o)'  the  norlhcl'll  ;uid  We-teni  eoa-t  o.f" 
l)(  i()t  lii:i   Penin-ul;i. 

"The  c\;iniill;i  I  ion  of  llic  ci;;i-t.""  Write-  ('aptaUl  Pi>--. 
"Wa-    pur-iled    Ulllil    the    fiflh    111'   .bme.    when.   hcA'imi   C(i|l-l.;;r  d 


SIR    JAML'S    (LA UK    lioSS- 


101 


luoi'c  lliun  half  our  provisions,  and  ihc  slrt'ii<i,ih  i)\'  rlic  ]ian;y 
ix'iu.ii  nuicli  reduced.  1  was  reluctantly  coin])elled  to  abandon 
fui'lhei'  operations,  as  it  was,  moi'eover,  necessary  to  jiive 
tlie  men  a  day  of  rest.  P)Ut  that  the  time  mi<i;ht  not  bo 
wholly  lost,  I  pi'oeeeded  with  two  hands  to  the  (\\trem(> 
soulh  point  in  si<2,ht  from  our  encampment,  distant  about 
ei*;ht  or  nine  miles." 

DiU'in^-  the  absence  of  C'a])tain  Ross,  other  ])arties  had 
e\])loi'ed  the  vicinity  of  ( "ai)e  Hind,  and  another  along  the 
western  shore.  This  last  party  und(a'  Jdeutenant  Robinson 
reachi'd  as  far  as  C'resswell  Bay,  a  few  miles  to  the  south- 
ward of  Fui'y  Beach.  He  found  the  house  in  which  Sir 
John  Iioss  had  wintered  in  1S32-18;>],  with  a  ([Uantity  of 
s1ore<  and  prcjvisions  of  the  Fury,  that  had  been  there  since 
1827.  anil  were  in  excelh/nt  stat(^  of  ])i'eservation. 

]^i'ep:u'ai  ions  were  now  made  for  lea\'in,u'  I'oi't  Le(_)])old, 
Captain  Ross's  object  beinji;  to  examine  \\'ellin,uton  Channel 
and,  if  fea-ible,  to  ])enetrate  as  far  as  ^vleh-ille  Island.  To 
thi<  end  it  was  necessary  to  set  to  work  with  ice-saws  and 
cut  ;l  channel  of  over  1  wo  miles  thai  the  shijjs  niijiht  be  freeil. 
""I'lii-  tediou-;  work  was  acc(_)m])li-^he(l  by  the  last  of  Au.u;ust. 
I  ml  before  li'a\in,ii',  a  sheltei'  wa>  built  on  land,  twelve  months" 
])ro\'i-ion<,  a  >team-launch,  !)elon'j,in,ti:  to  the  I iirrsliijntdr,  and 
such  other  -tores  bein^'  left  ttehind  as  would  be  found  wel- 
come to  Sir  .lohii  l-'ranklin"s  p:u'ty  .-hould  the\'  reach  that 
spot.  llai'dl\-  had  the  shijj^  u'ot  under  ^\■;ly  when  a  stroiiu; 
wind  bi'on!i.'h{  the  ice  down  on  them,  and  they  were  soon  beset. 

l'\)r  >ome  day.-  it  -(■emeil  ;i-  if  the  shi])<  wei'c  hard  fa-1  for 
a  dreary  winter,  but  the  wind  -hifted  to  t he  we-1  wai'd.  the 
whole  !)od\'  ot'  ice  bein.u'  drix'en  to  the  ea>twai'd.  and  in  the 
Centre  of  a  field  of  ice  more  ih;tn  fifty  mile.-  in  circumfei'ence, 
the  shi])s  were  carried  alotai'  the  southern  .-hoi'e  of  Lanca.-ier 
Souiid^  After  ])a<-iiai'  it-  entrance,  they  drifted  alonii'  the 
w«--tern  .-hore  of  Pjafhn  Wiiy  until  alirea-l  of  Pond  l^ay,  when. 


102  ■lilE-  CHEAT    WIIITK  XOltTII 

wi'th' a  suddcnncsA  that,  was  all  but  Diii'aculous,  the  field  broke 
into  iiinunierable  fra;i;iiient.s,  and  the  ships  ^\'e!•e  tVeed. 

''At  once  all  sail  was  set,  war])s  were  run  out  from  all 
Cjuarter-,  to  assist  the  shi])  throu<i,'h  the  hea\-y  floe>,  anrl  at 
last  the  f nrcsUgn.lor  and  K/iterj/rise  found  themselves  in  (j])eii 
water." 

'"It  is  im})o-sil)le,"  writes  Iif)ss,  "'to  eonvey  any  idea  of 
the  s('n<:i1  ioii  we  expei'U'ueed  wlien  we  found  <;ur.-elves  once 
more  at  liberty  ;  nuuiy  a  heart  [)Oured  forth  its  j)i'aise>  asid 
thank<;iivin<is  to  Almi<i'hty  (\o(\  h)V  this  imlooked-for  deliv- 
erance. 

''The  advance  oF  winter  had  now  closed  all  the  luu'bcyurs 
aLi'ainst  us;  and  a<  it  \va<  impo,->il)le  to  t)eneti'a1e  lo  ih(; 
wes1\v;u'd  throu.u,'h  the  ])ack  from  which  we  had  ju-t  be(ai 
lib(>ratefl,  ]  made  lh('  >i,unal  to  the  [ iic( stiijainr  of  my  inten- 
tion   to    feiurn    1o    l-in,ii,iaud.'' 

TI'Us  the  three  ex])edition<  so  far  ,-ent  out  \\\iA  not  met 
v;itli  >ucces>,  aiMi  the  aiixiety  in  I'in,u'land  over  l!i''  late  oi 
llie  l-Jr^'hiis  and  'Fii'mr  \va-  increa.-in,ti'.  In  March.  bSlN.  tlu; 
Admi!'all\'  offered  liie  sum  of  out'  hundi'''d;  uuineas  oi'  moi'o 
to  til''  i'f(-w-  of  a.ny  wi'.alinu'  -liip>  iha!  -hould  l)rin,ii'  accui'ale 
tidin'i-  oi'  tlie  nu>-in,tj,'  -liip<  aii'l  oi    ld"a.nl\liiu 

In  Mai'ch,  ISb),  the  Ibiti-h.  .u'o\-cfmnent  ofi'ci'erl  a.uot  her 
rf-wanl  oi'  twentv'  thou-and  poimds  "to  -ucli  pri\'ate  .-hip, 
or'  1  iv  di-t  i"ibui  ioi!  anionu'  .-uch  prix'alc  ship-,  o!'  to  any  ex- 
plnrin'i-  party  or  pai'tic-,  oi'  any  count  ;'y,  a-  iniulii.  in,  ttK- 
jU'l^Mcni  oi'  tlic  i'o.Mi'd  ol'  AdrfiU'aby,  ha\'('  reiidfacd  clh'-icnt 
a--r-i-nK'i'  to  Sir  .lolni  !-d;uil\lin.  lii.-  .-Iiip,<,  or  da-ic  (M'i w-,  and. 
niia'hi  ii;!  \-i'  colli  ril  Jilted  direct  ly  to  ext  ricitc  1  hem  fro ni  i  iie  ice.'' 

l.;c!y  i'r.^uiiJin,  wh(.i-c  dex'otion  and  <-oiira,'.'c  h.-id  won  the 
a' !nij!',!  1  ii  CI  III'  t'l''  woi'lil.  oifcrcd  1  wo  t  liiiusand  ])o:!n'!s  aiul 
ilir<-i-  ii:(in-and  pound.-  to  officer,-  aid  cr(-A'  of  an.y  -!iip  tliat 
^^iluid  f'iider  a--i-t:inee  to  Ijcr  liu-!i;iiid  and.  if  ic ■cc--ar \', 
lirncj.'   Sir   joini    i-'ranl\hn    and    t  lie  jrirt  \'  back  1  o  I-uiiiland. 


THE    LADV    FRANK LIX    EXPEDITIOX  108 

In  the  s]~)rin,L!;  of  1849,  sh('  sent  out  jji'ovisions  and  coal  for 
the  use  of  the  inissin;U;  shi])s,  and  th(\s(>  \v('r<>  carrifMl  in  tlic 
wlialin.i;  siii])  Trudorc.  in  c'hai'g;(>  of  ^Ir.  Parkcf,  and  were 
landed  at  Ca'pe  II;iy  on  the  south  sid(^  of  Lanea>t(U'  Sound. 

In  IS  19,  Dr.  (Soodsii',  whose  brother  had  sailed  in  th(> 
Er(l)u--<  as  assistant  sufii,-eon,  went  north  on  tlu^  whaling  ship 
.l(/('/re,  under  ('a])lain  J^enny,  and  penetratet'  to  Lancaster 
Sourvd,  hut  was  (h^harred  from  entering  Prince^  Ivegent 
Inlcl  1)\'  the  ice.  The  Ailricc  closely  skirted  the  shores,  and 
de-posited  ])ro\"isions,  but  found  no  traces  of  the  missing  ships, 
and  I't'tui'ued  to  I'Jigland.  In  the  meantime,  the  Enterprise 
and  I nrcstitjdtor,  the  gallant  ships  of  the  third  government 
exixnlilion  pi'eviously  des('ri])ed,  were  being  I'efitted  and 
])ro\-ision(Ml  for  tlu^  ]nn'])()se  of  going  by  way  of  k^outh  America 
to  l-'ehi'ing  Sti'ait.  Sailing  fi'om  Plymouth  Sound  January  20, 
IS,-)!).  \\[c  Etilvr prise  under  \\\v  conmiand  of  ('a])tain  liicliard 
Collinsoii,  and  the  I tir(  stiijator  und(M-  Commander  Ar('lui'(>, 
made  a  com]);u'atively  fast  ru.n  to  the  Pacific.  P}'  tlu>  middle 
of  August  (lie  Enterprise  fell  in  with  the  ice.  At  (IraiUly 
Ibirbor.  eommuiiicatioii  with  tlu^  Phu'er  and  I E'r etld  dvivr- 
miiiiMl  ('ai)tain  Colliiison  to  ])roceed  to  Hongkong,  tlier(^ 
to  r('i)l('i!:>li  lii>  stores  ;ind  not  attc^ni])!  to  ])enetrate  the  ice 
imi  il  t!ie  following  Ai)ril. 

In  the  meantime  the  XnrtJ)  Star  with  h(^r  ]irovisions  and 
dcs])atch('s  had  speiil  \]ie  vri'.itei'  in  Xoi'th  Star  Ixiy.  in  ^^'ol- 
sii'iil;o!me  Sound.  7()^  '■]'■]'  north  l;!tilud(>  and  ()S°  ,")(')'  v.'est 
lotigit  udc.  Not  ur.til  August,  LS.IO,  did  >]i(>  gd  frc(>  of  Ikm' 
I'ctrt^at,  ari'l  some  da\s  hitcr  in  Laricastei'  Sound  she  s])oke 
the  IjiiIij  Frntiidin  and  Sopiiia  uucUm'  the  connnand  of  .Mr. 
Penny.  I'lie-c  ship<  had  bc(Mi  e(iuii)])i>d  mainly  at  the  e\- 
])ense  of  Lai'>"  l'"rankli!i  :  had  >alle(l  cai'l}'  in  tlio  spi'ing  and, 
tliituuli  iniicijcndcnt  of  lh(>  go\'oi'mnent  expeditions,  were 
to  cor>p('i'ate  with  th.em  ;i-  rircumst anc(^s  ilemanded..  I,ater 
the  Xartli  Stirr  fell  in  with  the  f(li.r,  a  sch.ooner-riuiieil  v(  ><oI 


lol 


THE  (.i!i:Ar  WHITE  y()irrii 


of  one  huiKircd  and  twenty  tons,  ])rovi>ion('(l  for  ciuhtccn 
months  and  under  that  veteran  sea  cajjlain  and  exploi'er. 
Sir  John  l{os>.  The  Fdix  luid  been  efjuijiped  dy  ])uhh(' 
siidseri])tion  and  sent  out  for  the  ])Ui"])o>e  of  searchin;:  the 
west  side  of  the  entrance  of  \\'enin<i;t()n  Channel  fi'oni  ('ape 
Ilotha.iii  to  I)anks  Land. 

The  XiiriJi  Star  de])osited  a  (juantity  of  ])i'ovisions  at  a 
point  the  coniniaiHler  named  Xavy  I^oard  Inlet,  on  the 
mainhuid  behind  \\(jlla-~ton  Island,  and  ei'ected  a  caii'n  and 
flap,staff.  ha\in,L;;  fii'st  made  an  unsuccessful  attem])t  to  I'cach 
Fort  I>owen  and  Port  Xeale.  In  Po.<>es-ion  liay  she  >i)oke 
the  I'rincc  AUxrt,  that  <i'allant  little  ci'id't,  e(]uii)ped  in  (;i'eater 
])art  liy  the  de\-oted  Pad}'  I-'ranklin.  who  h;id  i';!i.-e(l  the  nee- 
e>-;ai'y  funds  by  sellin.u,'  out  all  per>onal  securities  which  sh(> 
could  le,^■ally  touch.  Conunander  ('harles  ('.  I'"or>yth  and 
Mr.  W.  P.  Snow  had  volunteei'ed  theii-  sei'\'ice<  willuMit 
comjx'nsat ion,  and  the  object  ol'  this  exj)edition  w;i>  to  exam- 
ine th(-  s!iore>  of  Pj'ince  Heucnt  Inlet  and  t  he  (  '. ulf  of  Pjoot  hia 
and  >end  out  ti'a\'ellin^  ))arties  to  examine  the  west  side  of 
Boothia  down   to   i)<'a,-e  ;uid  Simp-on  sti'aits. 

Siiortlx' after  t  hi-.  the.\'e/7//  >7r//' t  urneil  homewai'd,  reachiiiL!; 
S[)itheail,   I'hi.ulaiid,  Septeml  lei'  2n,   1s.")(). 

The  P)i'iti-h  i!.'o\'ernmeii1  had.  by  now  outfitted  two  sti'onu; 
teak-built    -liips,    the    Utsnlnlr   and    the    Assistn ncr.    ;md    two 

>te;iiii    \-,.-,-cl-,    t!ie    I'ioiiur    all<!    I  I'ln  jliil.       The    objrcl     (if    \\i\^ 

expedition  was  to  renew  the  -eai'ch  by  way  of  I'adin  Pj.'iy  and 
P;inc;i-tei'  Soimd.  ('aptain  IP  T.  Au-tin  comm;inded  the 
III  .■■-<il  nil  ,  ('aptain  ()mnianey  the  Assisln  nn  .  Pieutdiant 
Shcrnrd  •)~lM)i'n  the  I'lnmir,  und  Pieutenani  ('(inuiiMnder 
(■;il(ir    l!if    I  nln  jiiil.      t  )!'    wT.at     the}'    acci  mipli-hed,    we   -hall 

A-  e;u-l\-  a- April  b  ls!!>.  P;id\-  PrnnlJin  had  m;c|e  ;!  h(';irl- 
reiidiiiu  ;ippe:ii  !o  t  he  Pri-i,PilI  i  if  1  he  P  111  led  St;iti--,  in  wliicJ! 
>!ie     r;i||ed     (iM     t  hr     Ami'l'ic;in     llalioU,   a>     a     ■d^indre(l     pcdplcj 


FiL'ST  (;iii.\.\ i:ll   kxpeditiox  105 

to  join  luMU't  and  hand  in  th(>  (MitcM'pt'iso  of  snatching  the  lost 
navigators  from  a  dr(\iiy  grave."  rfuch  an  ekxiiuuit  ajipcal 
conld  not  help  but  rouse;  the  country  to  the  strongest  fecshng 
of  sympathy  and  interest.  But  the  prolonged  delays  incident 
to  our  national  legislation  threatened  to  d(>feat  her  request, 
until  a  gcMKM'ous  ])hilanthropist,  ^Ir.  Henry  CTrinnell,  a  New 
York  merchant  of  gr(>at  wealth,  stepped  forward  with  the 
munificent  offer  of  two  well-(>quipp(Hl  vessels,  the  Advance 
of  one  hundi'ed  and  forty  tons,  and  the  Rescue  of  ninety  tons, 
which  \w  ])la('ed  at  the  disposition  of  the  government.  Con- 
gr(\-^s  accc])t(Ml  this  g'MKM'ous  gift,  and  the  shij^s  were  ]:)laced 
under  the  direction  of  the  Navy  Board.  The  command  was 
gi\'en  to  Lieutenant  K.  T)e  Haven,  a  most  zealous  and  able 
na\-al  office^-;  ^Ir.  Almxlock  was  sailing  mast(>r,  with  Dr. 
E.  K.  Kane,  that  remarkable^  man  "weak  in  body  but  great 
in  mind,"  whose  succeeding  journeys  contributed  so  nuich 
to  solving  the  mystery  surrounding  the  fat(^  of  tlu^  lost  shi])s. 

The  (Jrinnell  exp(Mlition  l(>ft  N(nv  York  on  May  23,  1850, 
and  was  absent  about  sixteen  months. 

It  will  thus  \)c  s(H'n  that  the  Arctic  seas  had  never  been  so 
repl(>t('  with  expenlitions,  whose  li'M'oic  object  was  the  search 
for  missing  conn-ades  ;  and  the  year  1850-1851  was  one  of 
unparalleled  advimtui'e,  ex])l()ration,  and  discoveny,  but 
ahis  !  only  the  most  m(>agi'e  trac(\s  of  the  brave  mariners 
wci'e  found,  whose  dejilorable  fate  stirred  the  symi)ath3'  of  the 
civilizfMi  world. 

The  mifa\()ura])l(^  conditions  of  tlu^  "middk^  ic(>"  in  Baffin 
I^ay  and  tlu^  Ab-lville  ]')ay  barri(M-  caused  tlie  searching  (\x])e- 
ditions  gr(\it  di(iiculti(N  and  discouraging  decays.  So  strenu- 
ous were  the  conditions  at  tun(\s  that  \\\v  officers  and  crc>ws 
(>fth(^  smaher  \'ess('ls  made  evei'y  pr(>i)aration  to  leax'c  the 
ships  at  a  monuMil's  notice^,  shouhl  these  \'essels  \)c  crushed  in 
tl'.i^  ic(-.  l-)\'  boi'ing.  tracking,  and  cutting,  and  l)y  o\w  shi]) 
towing  t!ie  other  through  loose  ice  as  \hv  occasion  (UMuauded, 


lOi;  THE   CliKAT    WHITE   XOinTl 

slow  but  steady  advance  \\-;is  made  to  the  dcsii'cd  latitudes. 
Alosl  interest ii^i;'  are  the  experienees  of  the  little  Prince 
Alixrt,  J.ad\'  i'"rauklin"s  shi}). 

In  d(\scril,'in,i;'  a  darin^u;  attack  of  this  little  craft  upon  iee- 
lioes.  Air.  Snow  \vi'it(>s  most  <;'raphically  :  — 

"It  was  determined  hy  ('aptani  l'\)i'syth  boldly  to  fry  and 
bi'eak  tln'ouii'li  the  impediment,  by  forcinsj;  \\ic  shi])  undfM'  a 
])ress  of  can\-a,s.  Accordinul}',  all  sail  was  set  and  the  shi]) 
v.'as  st(H'rii>!i,'  dii'ect  for  the  narrowest  and  most  bi'oken  ])art 
of  ihe  neck.  As  this  was  th(>  hrst  and  only  \h\\c  the  Pri]ic(> 
Albert  was  ma<!e  to  come  direct  upon  the  ice  to  break  it  with 
the  h)rc(>  she  would  dei'i\"e  fi'om  a  pi'css  of  sail,  W(^  wei'e  all 
anxious  to  see  how  slie  would  stand  it  :  andi  ri^t^ht  well  did  slu^ 
bear  the  tot.  The  two  mates  wei'e  alofi  in  tlu^  'crow's 
nest  '  to  con  tiie  vessel  :  I  was  standin.i;;  on  the  ("xti'eme  point 
of  her  bow  :md  holdiiiii;  on  by  the  h)re-stay  to  dii'eet  her 
mo\'em(Mit  when  innnediiately  upon  the  ice;  and  ('aptain 
Foiv^yth  was  by  the  side  of  the  helmsiuan.  I'A'ci'y  man  was 
at  some  pai'ticular  station,  and  I'cady  to  ])ei'form  anythin,ii; 
that  wa<  instantly  re(|uii'ed  of  him.  Cook  and  steward  wei'e 
al-o  on  deck  :  and  1  lu'ouulhiut  the  ship  an  almost  bj-ea.thless 
anxiety  pi'e\'ailed  ;  ['or.  it  nuist  be  remembei'ed.  it  was  not  a 
lai'iic  and  powerful  shii),  but  a  small,  and  com])arati\'ely 
frairiie  one,  that  was  now  about  to  try  of  Ihm'  own  accoi'd, 
and  with  her  own  sti'enuth.  to  bi'eak  a  ])iece  of  ice  some  h'ct 
teick,  tliou'iji  not  \'ei'y  bi'oad.  (hi  eitliei'  side  of  her  Were 
he;i\y  (ioe^  and  scouce  pieces;  and  it  i'e(|ui!'e(l  the  u'l'eatest 
nie.-iy  in  u;;i(!iMu-  hei',  that  sli(>  miu'ht,  in  hei'  stroimc-l  i)ai't, 
the  !i(iw.  hit  l!ie  pi'eei~e  spot  wticre  the  neck  Wa^  Weake-t, 
and  not  coMie  i;poi!  any  othei'  part  where  she  could  do  nothinii; 
but   -'■\'erc!y  injui'e  lier-eH". 

"<  'n  -iie  caHie.  at  a  rale  of  |'i:ll  jl\-e  mile-  per  honi'  :  ii'aininu', 
a-  -ic  [iroce,-.  led,  iina-ea-i'd  impel  u-.  uulil  >tie  I'u-hed  !owa>rds 
it    witii  a  .-peed  of  at    lea-t   ei,ii,hl   miles  in  the  hour.      The  dis- 


THE    LADV    FJIAXKLJX    EXI'EDITION  107 

lance  from  the  neck  was  about  a  mile,  and  the  breeze  Ijlew 
steadily  ui)on  it.  The  wealcest  and  narrowest  i)art  ^\'as  tiiat 
(•lo<e  to  the  starboard  floe,  and  to  that  our  eyes  were  all 
directed. 

■'M.^ort!  starboard!  So  —  0  —  steady!'  was  every  now 
and  then  l)awled  out  with  stentorian  lungs  from  aloft,  and  as 
energetically  and  i)romi)tly  re])eated,  by  the  captain  below, 
to  tlie  man  at  tlu-  wheel.  Presently  she  came  close  to  —  she 
was  almo.-t  up(jn  it  —  a  inistaken  hail  from  aloft  would  have 
put  her  helm  a-port,  and  sent  her  crush  irtg  u])on  tlie  heavy 
floe.  I  heard  the  order  'd-port,'  and,  before  it  had  been  i"e- 
peated,  sh(jut(.'(l  loudly,  ^\■ith  the  riK^i  arotnid  me,  who  also 
saw  tlie  mistake,  'starlxjard  !  slorhoard!  hard  a-starhoard !' 
and  in  tlie  next  instant,  with  a  tremendous  blow,  that  for  the 
moment  made  liei'  rebound  and  tremble,  she  struck  the  ice 
ill  th(^  exaet  ])oint,  and  caused  it  to  rend  apart  in  several 
fragments.  Ice  ])oles  and  boat  hooks  were  imme(liately 
in  I'fHiuest  ;  and  m\'s<'lf  and  lialf  a  dozen  iikmi  s]:)rang  instantly 
over  the  bows,  working  with  hands  and  feet  and  wilh  all  our 
might  in  remo\'ing  the  bi'oken  ])ieces  iiy  jiushing  them  ahead 
(jf  ihe  ve>sel  ;  in  \vhich  lal)ou;',  slie,  herself,  matei'ially  aideil 
u-  by  her  own  ]){)wer  ])ressiiig  lupoti  them.  In  a  moment  or 
two  it  was  effected,  and  throwing  ours(>lv(\s  ab(.)ard  again 
like  so  man\'  wild  c;it<,  we  prei)ared  for  th(>  next  encounter. 

■' Tliis,  ho\ve\'ei',  ])ro\'ed  not hing  lilvc-  tlie  otluM'.  The  fii'st 
blow  s(>nt  the  whole  oi'  it  fl\'ing  in  all  directions,  and  the  little 
Prince,  as  if  i.n  hauiih.ly  disdain,  ])as-(Ml  through  A\'ithout  once 
sto])piiig.  ])ushing  asid(>  the  ]ii(>ce<,  as  tliex'  came  ag;iinst  hei'. 
In  another  moment  or  two  wr  were  in  a  larg"r  sheet  (jf  water, 
rliougli  to  our  disa])])ointme!it  l)locked  up  at  the  extreme  end 
by  small  bergs  and  huu'e  hu!iimocks.  whieh  latter  had,  a]")- 
]);u'ent!y,  been  thus  thrown  up  in  c()n.-e(iuence  of  some  late 
severe'  sijueeze  there,  ^^'e  \V(M'e,  therefore,  again  obIiLi-e(!  to 
mak(>  fa.-t."' 


108 


THE   CUEAT    WIIITK  M)irni 


'riiiirsdiiy,  Au<i,'us1  1.1,  ^\v.  Snow  makes  Ihc  cnti'v,  "\\'(' 
\\'('r(\,  now,  faii'lx'  in  \\iia1  is  called  l)y  Arctic  seamen,  the 
'North   W'atei'/  and  all  seemed  clea.r  before  lis." 

By  the  21st  the  little  Pr'nivc  Alhni  found  herself  off  Port 
Leo])()ld.  llei'e  a  ])ai'ty  made  a  diflicult  landin<2,'  in  a  giitta- 
])ercha  boat  and  found  the  house  constructed  by  Sir  .Itunes 
(\  Ross,  somewhat  rent  1)y  the  winter  stoi'ins,  but  the  ])i'o- 
\'isions  were  in  excellent  condition  and  the  little  steam-launch 
read}'  to  carry  any  shij)wrecked  crew  to  sah'ty. 

The  I'riucc  Alhcrl  now  made  foi'  Prince  Rei^'ent  Inlet, 
and  soon  after  stood  off  I''ur>'  lieach.  l''roni  this  point  the 
outlook  was  disc()uraj;in,i!;,  as  an  expatise  of  hummock}'  ice 
without  the  sli,a;htest  sii>;n  of  an  openinji;  extended  as  far  as 
the  ('}'(■  could  reach. 

It  was  now  found  nec(^ssary  to  abandon  the  main  object 
of  the  expedition:  that  is,  the  examination  of  the  shoi'cs  of 
lioothia,  and  the  shij)  turned  with  the  pui'i)o>e  of  clo.-ely 
scaimin<>,'  the  shores  and  headlands  at  the  lin'oat  of  P)arro\\' 
Stra.it  and  a  short  distance  up  Wellington  ( 'liamiel.  In  liar- 
row  Strait,  the\'  s])()ke  the  .Xmei'ican  bi-ia,-  Adfn/icf :  \)y  \\\v 
21th  they  neai'ed  ('ape  Hind.  ( )n  this  day  they  saw  the 
Jjiih/  l-'niitldin  and  Sop/iia,  and  latei'  obsei'X'ed  three  more 
ships  in  \\'ellini;ton  ( 'hamiel. 

The  next  da_\'.  while  off  ('ape  Spencei',  the  oflicers  of  the 
I'ni/cc  Allxii  saw  that  to  push  fui'ther  into  the  ice-pack 
throiii!,h  the  lew  lanes  still  open  mi^lit  mean,  in  case  ol  a 
sudden  nip,  bcino-  shut  up  lor  the  winter,  so  it  wa>  I'eluctaiil  ly 
d<'cid('d  i()  m;ike  lor  home. 

bea\in^  behind  them  that  noble  lleet  of  scai'diim;,  X'esscls, 
inclui  lin'j,-  the  Assislii/ici  ,  \\ic  IjuIij  I-' ninl.-li  ii  .  t  he  No/^///V/,  1  he 
lit  sc,ii\  .and,  ihouuii  not  xisibic,  the  .T//v///rr  and  Inlnjiiil, 
ilic  I'rinci  Alli(ii  turned  her  bow  homewai'd.  At  ('ape  ltil<'\' 
theolliccr-  n(^liccd;i  -iimal-po^t  and  iuniiei  lial  ely  >enl  a  boat 
a-  iioi'c  I  o  di-co\iT  wh;it    it    meant . 


CAPTAIX    OMMAXKY  109 

"As  tlu'  boat  touched  the  8h(>lvinG;  rocks,"  \vrit(\s  "Sir. 
8no\v,  "1  hastily  sprang  out  into  th(>  wat(>r,  Itniving  the  men 
to  secure  hcv  ;  and  ran  to  the  signal-post  about  fifty  yards  olT. 
I  was  ther(>  in  a  moment,  with  (irate  closc^  at  my  heels.  A 
few  ])aces  otf  I  obscM-vcnl  another  and  a  rougher  ])ost  (M'ccted, 
but  this  one  had  a  small  flag  fiying,  and  was  (>vi(l{>ntly  the 
lirincipal.  I  nvdly  cannot  tell  wlu^ther  tlu^  cylinder-  handed 
to  u\v  in  the  course  of  a  second  or  two  had  \)vvn  buried  or 
merely  tied  to  the  post,  so  intent  was  I  upon  conjecturing 
wliat  news  I  should  rcHMMve.  My  hands  trc^mbh^l  with  (>ag(M- 
n(^ss,  and  I  could  hai'dly  read  the  jxipcM-.     It  was  as  follows  :  — 

'"Her  ^Majesty's  Arctic  S(nu'ching  Exix'dition. 

'"This  is  to  certify  that  Captain  Ommane}',  with  tlie 
ofHcers  of  \\vv  Majesty's  ships  Assistance  and  Intrepid,  landed 
at  ('ai)e  Ril(\\'  on  the  23d  of  August,  bSoO,  wlun'c  \iv  found 
trac(^s  of  an  encam]im(uit,  and  collected  th(>  remains  of  mate- 
rials which  (n'idently  i^rove  that  some  party  bc^longing  to  her 
Majesty's  sliijis  hav(>  Ikhmi  detainc^d  on  this  spot.  B(M'ch(\v 
Island  was  also  examined,  where  traces  wcn'c  found  of  the 
s;un(^  party. 

'"This  is  also  to  give  notice^  th.at  a  suj'jply  of  provisions  and 
fuel  is  at  Port  Leo])old.  Iler  Majesty's  shii)s.  Assistance 
and  Intr(  pi'I,  wew  di^laclied  fr(.)m  {\\e  squadron  und(M'  ("a])tain 
Austin,  off  \\'olstenh()lm(\  on  tlu^  l-lth  inst..  since  when  they 
have  ('xamined  the  north  shor(>s  of  Lanc'a>ter  Sound  and 
Barrow  Strait,  without  nicM'ting  any  other  trac(\s.  Cai^tain 
Onimanney  ])roc(H>ds  to  ('ai)(^  Hotham  and  ( 'a])e  ^^'alkel•  in 
s(>arch  for  furth(>r  traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  (wixnlition. 

'"Dated  on  boartl  ]\vv  Majesty's  shi])  Assistance,  off  ('a])(^ 
Riley,  August  '23,  bSoO. 

'"Erasmi's  Ommanky.'  " 

"  Aftei'  the  otluM'  signal-post  luid  been  examined."  continue^ 
'Sir.  Snow.  "  1  made  a  cai'eful  obseiA'at ion  of  e\"i'r\  thinu  ai'ound 


1 1 0 


Tin:   GllKAT    WHITE  yORTH 


\vj'.  :uiu  cijiiiiiifii'-oil  a^  clo^f  an  mvc-tmutioii  as  t}i(>  hurried 
iialurc  of  my  \-i>iT,  acr(, .riling'  to  \i\y  or'li'r>,  jx-rinitTcd  nic. 
The  men  !i;ul  ;ii.-(j.  ])n'\-i(jusly  to  my  tclliii<r  tlicni  ;ui(l  with 
an  ahicrity  that  diil  them  credit,  connnenced  a  most  ])i'yin,i>; 
>(-arch.  t  )iie  in  a  -h(.)rt  time  bi'ou.iiht  me  ahout  an  inch  and  a 
hah'  sfiU:il'<'  ])iece  of  can\"a<  Weil  bleached:  another,  the 
seccjnd  mate,  moi'e  fortunate,  di<co\-ered  u  ])iece  of  rope,  a.s 
I  -u])i)o-ed  a  I'atlin,  and  which  wa-  found  to  contain  the 
C'hatliam  Dock-yard  \a\'\"  mark;''  a  tiiird  found  a  jtieceof 
l)(»ne,  vritli  two  lude-  l.(;i-eil  in  it.  I5('ef  lio.'K.-.  and  other 
unmi-taka'oli'  marks  of  the  |")lace  ha\'inu;  hecn  u-ed  within 
some  \'(-ry  few  year.<  hy  a  J'arty  of  liu!'o|)ean>.  fi^r  xmie  j)ur- 
])o-e  or  (ii  her,  were  dl!-c(n'ered.  ddie  ui'ouiid,  ])re-en{ed  \'ery 
much  ihi-  a])i)earance  ui  havin,ii'  keen  turned  iutM  an  encamp- 
ment, for  cert;iin  .-tone-  were  x)  ])lace(l  a-  t'l  lead  to  the  in- 
ference tlia!  tent-  had  k(M'n  ('reeled  witiiin  some  of  lin-ir 
(■nclo-u!'e-.  anil  in  others  a  fire  mi.ii'lit  ha\'e  keen  made.  Ijut  ikj 
ni;u'l:-  ol"  lii'e  Were  \-i-i!  )le. 

■■  Fo'ur  of  ih'---e  circuku'  ] Parcel-  of  -tone-  1  cnunteik  and.  ok- 
.-er\'eii  ;inii;:i(-r  A\'kieh  miu'ht  or  miu'lit  imt   kax'e  1  uen  a  lif'h." 

< 'ontinukiiL'  hei'  honieward  \'oy;tu,'e  wikii  lier  preeinu-  relic.-, 
th"  rru,<'<  ,1/''. /7  reackeil  Akej-dceu.  Octoker  1,  Tlie  Adnn- 
r;!ky  i'  leukhied  i  'le  kit  of  iMpe  a-  keinir  n;i\"y-yari  1  manufaeture 
(if  niM  ktl.-r  than  l^ll.  Tke  raiiv,-)-  w;;-  al-o  k.  ke\-r.l  to  ke 
oi'  Ik'ni-li  ni;i!nif;ici  ure.  d  lie  meiu  kone-  >eeiii(Ml  to  keai' 
ex:iet'y    'he    mar'x-  .if   t!ie    -tii]''-    prox'i-ion-   u-ed   akout    fi\'(- 

ye:u--  licck.  and  tk'  iviie-  Were  identified  a-  keldiiLlhm  to  tke 
il:-'a--d   A'--'e  .    ::Md    r.   ■:-,■■. 

A-  -'!m:i  ::-  i'  w:,-  l-;nowii  iinmnu  ike  oth'^r  -e:u'cliin:i:  ]):irii(  - 
t':'ii  l':i!i';::i;  '  >M  i! : ., ,  nev  k'ld  found  i  race-  nf  ti:<  ini--Uli;: 
e-  O'A';' 'j  .1,.  k'i--.  Au-'':n.  I'^imx'.  end,  I  )e  l!;i\en  keL:;in  ;i 
n''iei''    in-,--' iu-u 'Mil   i,\    !!:e  -  u  ri'i  .lu  1  d  i  u  Li  kn-ility  end   pro\-('d 

t;,:;'     ('lip'-    :-';"-n:-er    ;t;id     ileeckey     I-!and     et     tke    e!l'r:ince    i)\ 
'   \:,:  ■:    ret.e-     |,;e.-..    <M.rt;,i,,     T|,p   ;,,!,    Mi'     r.  >\    nV   wlluV,.    eU-..    kli.l    il! 


HeNUV    (  iULWKLL 


LIEUTENANT    OSBOHN  111 

AW'Uiiiiilun  ("liaiincl  had  ])(Hni  without  doubt  the  site  of 
Fraukliu's  firrst  wiiUcr  (luartcrs.  At  ("upe  Spencer,  some 
ten  miles  above  Cape  Kiley,  a  <z;round  i)laee  for  a  tent  was 
found,  the  lioor  ]xiv(hI  with  small  stones.  Al)out  the  tent 
l)irds'  bones  and  meat  canisters  wer(>  found.  Numerous 
slediix^  tracks  alonti'  th(>  shore  were  also  noticed. 

Of  the  examination  of  l^eechey  Island,  Lieutenant  (_)sborn 
writes  :  — 

''A  long  ])oint  of  land  slojx^s  graduall}'  from  the  soutluM-n 
]_)luffs  of  this  now  dec'ply  intcnn^sting  island,  until  it  almost 
connects  ilsdf  witli  the  land  of  Xorth  J)evon,  formini!;  on 
either  side  of  it  two  good  iind  connnodious  Iniys.  On  this 
slopc^  a  multitude  of  ])reserv(Ml-meat  tins  were  strcnvtnl  about  ; 
and  lunu'  them,  and  on  tlu^  ridge  of  the  sloyie.  a  can^fully 
conslructed  cairn  A\'as  discovcM'ed  ;  it  censisted  of  la}'ers  oi 
fitted  tiUiS.  flll(>(l  with  gravel,  and  ])lac(Hl  to  form  a  firm  and 
solid  hiundaiion.  ]^e\'ond  thi>,  and  jdong  the  northern  shore 
of  ]^e(~chey  Island,  tlu>  following  trac(\s  were  then  Cjuickly 
tliscoviMHHl  :  the  (mibankment  of  a  liouse,  with  car])enters' 
una  armorers"  working  i)l;ices,  washing  tubs,  coal-bags, 
pieces  of  old  cloth.ing,  r()p(\  and.  histly,  tlu^  gra\"es  of  three  of 
the  ci'ew  of  the  ]''nhiis  and  Terror,  ])(>aring  date  of  tli(>  winter 
of  1Sl")-bSlt).  \\'v.  lher(>fore.  now  had  ;iscertained  the  first 
^^'intc■r-(luar^ei■s  of  Sii'  .lohu  I'ranklin. 

"On  the  r';istern  >lope  of  the  ridge  of  h'xHH'liey  Island,  a  I'em- 
nant  of  a  gnrdtai  (for  rcje.nant  it  now  only  was,  luu'ing  be(Mi 
dug  u])  in  the  si^iU'c!:)  told  ;)n  intei'e-ling  t;de:  it<  U-cally- 
sha])ed,  oval  outlin(\  the  bonlei'  carefully  foi'me(l  of  mo>s 
lichen.  pop])ies,  and  anemones,  t raiis])lanted  fixHu  >onie  more 
geni;d  pm'l  of  thi-  di'eary  region.—  contri\-(Ml  still  to  show 
>\'mpioms  of  vitality:  but  the  seeds  which,  doubtless,  tliey 
luul  s()W(h1  in  the  garden  had  <lecLiy(Hl  :i\va\". 

"Nearer  to  the  bead;,  a  hea])  of  cindei's  and  scrai^s  oi  iron 
showed  tlie  armorer's  workin.g-plac(>  :  and,  along  an  old  water- 


11l> 


ruE  CHEAT    WHITE  yOUTTT 


course,  now  cIkuiumI  up  by  frost,  s(>\-(M'al  1ul)s,  construct (mI  of 
the  cuds  of  s;ilt-!n(^;it  casks,  left  no  doubt  as  to  the  \vashin<^- 
])hiV('s  of  the  men  of  Franklin's  s([ua(lron.  Ilaj^pcMiin.ti;  to 
cross  a  le\('l  ))iece  of  ii;i'oun(h  which  as  yet  no  one  had  huhted 
ui)oii,  I  was  ])l(>ased  to  see  a  ])air  of  cashmere  liloves  hiid  out 
to  (h'\',  with  two  smaU  stones  on  the  ])ahus  to  ])r(>vent  llieir 
blowing  away  ;  they  had  been  tluM'e  sincc^  1841).  I  took 
thcnn  u])  carefully,  as  melancho!\'  mementoes  of  my  nussinj;; 
fri(Mids.  In  anotlu^r  s])()t  a  flannel  was  discovercHl  ;  and  this, 
togetluM'  with  som(>  thin<;'s  lyinu;  al)oul,  would,  in  my  iiiuoi'ance 
of  wintei-in^u'  in  the  Arctic  reu;ions,  have  led  m(>  to  sup])()se  tliat 
there  was  c()!isideral)le  hast(>  dis])layed  in  the  d(^i)arture  of 
the  Er<'})us  and  Terror  from  the  s])()t,  had  not  ('aptain  Austin 
assured  me  that  tluMX^  was  uothin.a;  to  iiiround  such  a  belief 
ui'jon,  and  that,  fi'om  experience,  he  could  vouch  lor  these 
beinu:  nothinii'  more  than  the  ordinai\v  traces  of  a  winter  sta- 
tion ;  and  this  o])ini()n  was  full>'  boi'ue  out  by  those  oilicers 
who  had,  in  the  ])revious  y(>ai'.  wintereil  in  Poi't  L(H)])old.  one 
of  them  assertin<>;  that  people  left  winter  (juartei's  too  well 
])leas(Ml  to  escape  to  care  much  for  a  handful  of  sha\"in,us, 
an  old  coal-bai;;,  or  a  washinu'  tub."" 

On  the  headstones  of  \\\o  tlu'cf  ui'ax'i^s  I'estinti'  in  that  bleak 
and  desolate  shore  were  the  h)llowinii;  inscriptions:  — 

Sacr(Ml 

to  the 

Alemoi'N' 


AV.  Ihaine,  \l.  M. 

il.  M.  S.  l-jvbus. 

Died  April  ;ird.  bSKl, 

.\!i:e(l  '.V2  ycai's. 

''('hoose  ye  this  d;ty  whom  ye  will  s(i-v(\" 

Joshua,  ch.  .\\1\'.  i:.. 


LIEUTEXANT    OsBOlLY  IV] 

Sacrod  to  the  AIcMuory  of 

John  Hurtwoll,  A.  B.  of  li.  AI.  S. 

Erel)iis, 

Ased  28  years. 

"Thus  saith  tlie  Lord,  consider  your  ways." 

Ha,<i-i2,'ai,  I.  7. 

Sacred 

to 

The  ^Memory 

of 

John  Torrino'ton, 

"Who  d(>])arted  this  hfe, 

January  1st,  A.D..  1S46, 

On  board  of 

H.  AI.'s  Shi])  Tei'ror, 

Agetl  20  years. 

Xo  other  written  record  was  found  The  lost  exiKMhtion 
had  seeniin,ui>'  folded  its  tents,  in  the  niyst(M'ious  ^looni  of  the 
Arctic  niiiht,  and  silently  cr(>j)t  ;iwa\'. 

Now,  just  as  the  searchei's  had  struck  the  trail,  and  wove 
liot  u])()n  tlie  sc(ait,  the  icy  clutch  of  the  lon.ii:  winter  arrested 
their  endeavoui's.  ini])eri()usly  d(>nianded  (>!'  them  ])ati(aice. 
coura.ii'e,  endui'aiice,  and  (>nf()rc(>d  upon  thciu  the  weai'iness 
of  months  of  waitin.U'.  'Iduis  th(>  sciuadi'on  took  u])  wiiUer 
(juartca's  at  the  southern  extremity  of  ( 'oi'iiwahis  hand; 
the  (ii'innell  ('X])edilion.  followin,*;'  its  inst  ruct  ion,  made  an 
attemi)t  to  riturn  hom.e,  hut  was  soon  shut  up  in  \\'('llin^ton 
Channel,  whei'c  tlu^  Adrajicc  and  JiCscm  drifted  backward 
and  forward  at  tlu^  nuM'cy  of  the  ice.  Of  their  attem])t:-  to 
escape  bcinsj;  ice-bovuid  for  the  wintta'.  Dr.  Kane  draw.-  a 
lively  picture. 


11 


THE   GllKAT    MUITK  XOIIJII 


"Tlic  na\'i,iiati()U  is  (•(■rtaiuly  cxcitinii.  I  havo  novcr  .-ccri 
a  (Ic-ci  iptiou  ill  in\'  Ai'ctic  readings  (jf  anytliiii^n;  like  tlii-. 
WV  ai'c  lit('i'all\'  niiiniiiu'  lor  oui'  lives,  surrounded  l)y  the  iui- 
miiieiit  hazard-  of  -uildi'U  eou-oliihit i(jU  in  an  (j])en  >ea.  AM 
minor  })eri!>,  nip-,  iiunip-.  and  -unken  l)er^-  ai'e  di-earde(l  ; 
A\'e  are  sta.iiu'erinu'  alonu'  under  ah  >aih  f(jrein^  ouj'  way  v/hile 
we  can.  i  )ne  tliu.nii).  I'i'ecix-cd  since  I  conini(-nce(l  writinti'. 
jerlvcd  tiie  nnie-ke('per  from  our  hinnacle  ilown  tlie  caliin 
lialcji.  and.  lull  for  our  .-li'onu,'  liows.  -e\'cn  and  a  lialf  -ohd 
feet,  would  !ia\'r  .-1o\'e  u-  in.  Anolher  lime,  wc  cleared,  a 
tonu'ue  of  1  he  main  jack  hy  ridiicz  it  down  at   ei'i'ht  knots." 

■A\'e    Wel'e   o'i  iliLi,!  •■ !. "    !:(■   Ciintinue-.    "-eV-ei'al   tilut-   ihe   \lr\X 

day  to  tiorr  throtiyli  liu-  \'ounii'  ici'  :  f(jr  the  low  lem'perature 
conlimird.  and  oiu'  wIim!  lulied  undicr  raj)e  lioihain.  The 
iullIi!  !i:ave  li-  now  throe  horns  of  c<i!m)l(-te  darkne--.  It  w;is 
dan'ier  to  run  on.  yet  ecpjally  daiiii'er  to  pau-e.  ( Irim  water 
A\"a-  foilowinij.'  c!o-c  upon  oiU'  heel-;  and  e\-en  the  ('aljlain. 
.-aiiLiuini'  all  1  l'i-;irle--  in  emcri^eucy  as  he  always  ])ro\'rd  him- 
self, a-  ho  -aw  tlio  t''na.cioU-  hold-  of  ^lud.U'e  alldi  jjallcake 
ihirkotiiiiti'  aroiindi  u-,  ]M';;-;in  to  fcf-1  aiixiou-.  ^^line  wa-  a 
juiiA!.'  I ,\  -!-n-ation-,  I  had  i:e(-n  ije-irou-  to  the  la-t  deii'ree 
t!;at  Wf  miuht  niiuiin  on  liio  fieM  of  -carch,  and  could  hafiily 
h-  -.oi-lii-d.  at  what  ])r<imi-i'(!  to  rca!i/r  my  wi-h.  '\  el  1 
had  ImOi  d  tliat  OU!'  willt  i 'rilUi'  Would  lie  Hear  our  liimli-li 
frii'ici-.  tlic'  in  ca-'-  <if  ti'i.uMo  or  di-'-a-i'  wi-  miuht  mutually 
-U-i  a'::  ''a''!;  o1  h<r.  1  hit  the  intcr\"al  of  hl't  y  liiilo  1  let  Woeii  u-. 
in    th('-i-    iiiho -!  u!  ahli'   iii-i-r!-,    wa-   a-   complote   a   -eparatiou 


It  :    and  I  roiay-  t 


at  till-  dark 


i^'-'ao'    ai'iiuiir!    j-'ariow  Inld.  tli''  i)ri-on   I'rMm   wliirh 
i';;--''':  .■   -   on    tin'   -•\-oiith.   ju-t    <ix  da\'<   hclnria    with 

.mho    a-   ■'[.'    hmd-"ape  it-elf.      'I"!:,-  ^(.iind  of  oUl' 

uni'':h;'.r   hi'l'    W:i}-   liil'oULlh    tin'    ICW   ]rc    i-    not    ('a-\'    to 

It   \\,a-  n-it   iiko  tho  m'iiclin''  111'  thi-  old  lornird  ii'e, 


ALBERT    LAXr)  115 

nor  was  it  the  slusliy  sfrapinji  of  sludge.  We  may  all  of  us 
rciiienibcr  in  the  skatin,t;'  frolics  of  early  (lays,  the  ])eculiar 
reverhcratiup;  outei'y  of  a  ])el)l)l(\,  as  we  tossed  it  from  us  alori<i; 
the  ('(Ijics  of  an  (jld  mill-dam,  and  heard  it  dyin<i'  away  in  (H'lioes 
almor-t  mu.-ical.  Imagine  sueh  a  tone  as  tliis,  combinefl  with 
the  whir  of  rai)id  motion,  and  the  rasping  noise  of  close-grained 
sugar.  I  was  listening  to  the  sotnid  in  my  little  den,  after  a 
soi'rowful  day,  close  iipim  zero,  trying  to  v\'arm  up  my  stif- 
fened liiiihs.  l^res(nitly  it  grew  less,  then  increased,  then 
st(^])])C(l.  tiien  went  on  again,  1)Ut  jerking  and  irrt^gular,  and 
then  il  wane(l.  and  waned,  and  waned  away  to  silence. 

"Down  came  the  ca])tain  :  'J)(jctor,  the  ice  has  caught  us  ; 
wc  are  frozen  u]).' '' 

In  descrihing  the  discovery  of  new  territory,  Dr.  Kano 
says  :  — 

"On  the  22d  'S(>pteml)er,  ISoOj,  otu"  latitude  was  To^ 
21'  21".  I  now  saw  land  to  tlie  nortli  and  v\"est  ;  its  horizon 
that  of  rolling  gi'ound,  without  hluffs,  terminating  at  its 
nnrthcni  end.  Still  furtlier  on  to  the  n(jrth  came  a  strip 
vrithout  \-i<il)le  landi,  and  then  land  again  with  UKjuntain  tops 
distant  jiud  'rising  above  the  cloudis.'  This  last  was  the 
land  which  receiveil  from  ('a])1ain  De  Haven  tlie  name  of 
Mv.  ( iriina'll." 

The  following  year  flS.")l)  this  same  lanal  was  seen  Ijy 
("ai)tain  Penn\',  and  named  1)\'  him  Albert  Land.  The 
Amci'icans  naturally  su])]io<('(l  tiiat  when  it  was  made  krjown 
that  this  land,  liad  fiecn  di>c()vei'(^d  by  Dr-  Haven  altout  eight 
months  b<-f(.)re  it  wa>  reaclicd  by  ('a]")tain  Penny,  the  name 
"Albei't'"  would  be  dro])])ed.  and  that  of  "(ii-innell""  sub>ti- 
tuted.  Tills,  however,  wa>  not  done.  A.  .-trangX',  and  ce!'- 
taiiily  nol  \'ery  honouraJ'le.  leelinsj,'  of  jealou<>' .-ei-Dis  to  ha\'e 
induce(l  the  Admii'alt)'  and  (leoiiTaphical  Society  lo  -hiit  llieir 
ey(  -  to  the  fact  that  the  di-co\-i'r,s-  of  the  land  va-  due  lo  ti;" 
American^.      Thi.-  famou<  con.;  ro\'i'!'-\-  re.-ulteii  in  bitter  con- 


111! 


THE    (.UK AT    ]VIIITK   X OUT II 


{l(-!iiiiuli()ii  of  the   I'Ji^'lish  authorities  for  inju>tic('  and  ])ar- 

liality. 

l)Ut  to  rctui'ii  to  Dr.  Kane's  journal.     On  September  2;^, 

lie  pictures  a  fatal  bi'cak-U])  of  the  ice  :  — 

"How  shall  I  describe  to  \'ou  this  ])ressure,  its  fearfulne>s 
ami  -ubliniity  I  Nothing  I  iiave  <i'i:n  or  read  of  a])])roaches 
it.  The  voices  (jf  the  ice  and  the  heavy  swash  of  the  over- 
turneil  hununock-table-  are  at  this  moment  dimiin^-  in  my 
ear-.      'All  hand-"  are  on  decjc  fi_tihtin,Li,-  our  ,ti;rim  eneniy. 

"  [■^)tu"teen  inches  of  ^o!id  ice  thickness,  with  some  half  dozen 
of  >iiow,  are,  ^vi1h  the  -low  unifortn  ad\'an<'e  of  a  miu-hty  ])r()- 
])i'irm,u:  pow<'!'.  dri\'iirii'  in  upon  our  \'('>-el.  A>  they  stril^e  her, 
the  semi-])la>tic  ma->  i>  im])re>.-ed  with  a  mould  of  her  >ide, 
and  tlien,  ur,ii'e(l  on  b\'  the  i'orcc  behind,  .-'iile-  ui)ward,  .and 
riM's  in  Lireat  \'ertical  table-.  A\'hen  tluse  attain  thcii'  utmo-t 
height,  <till  ])fe<.-e(l  on  by  others,  they  topjilc  o\'ei'.  and  form 
a  ureal  emljankmeiU  of  fallen  tables.  At  the  same  lime, 
other-  ta!-;e  a  downward  direction.  :i:id  when  ])u<hed  on,  as 
in  the  other  c:i.-e,  form  a  similar  pile  undernealh.  The  sid(^ 
on  whicji  one  or  the  odier  of  these  actions  take<  ])jace  for  the 
time  \-a!'i<'s  wit!;  t!ie  direction  of  the  force,  and  the  -treim'lh 
of  the  op])o-ite  oi-  re-i-tin'j.'  -ide.  t!ie  incHnat  ion  of  the  vessel, 
and  tiie  weiu'ht  of  die  -upei'ini'iunbent  mound-  ;  and  as  t!ie-e 
coiiilitio!!-  t'ollow  each  other  ill  \-ai'yin,u'  succe--ion.  the  \-e-.-cl 
t)('eoni---  perfi'ctiy  imbedded  after  a  little  while  in  crumblinii; 
and  frcei  iiivil  ice," 

"\\<-  are  jii'ted  bodily  eiii'hteen  inches  out  of  watei","  con- 
tinue- 1  )r.  I\;iiie.  •■  'I'lie  humnii  icjs<  are  reared  up  aroimd  the 
.-lup.  -M  ;i-  to  n-e  iti  -ome  ca-e-  a  couple  of  feet  at>o\'e  our  bul- 
W.'ifj-:-  fi\'e   f(M-t    ;d>o\'e  oui'    deck.       ddiey  are   \-ery  often    ten 

and  !\\-e|\i'  iri-t   \a's\\.      All  h;ind-  are  out.  Inboi'iim'  with  ])ick- 

aU'l     e!-Mwb;il'-     O,     (i\-e|-t]irn     the     iVauiuent-     t!i;i1      thl'C.aten     to 

(j\-er\>.  !;ehii    U-.      A'ld    tu   I 'h  i  -   'i:irkne--.   -now.   co|i!,   and   the 
;i!i-ohite  d'--; ;:  .:  i'.n  ■■  <'.   -  u  r:^  iUi  idiiiu  -hore-." 


/>/•;    flAVEX    EXPKDiriOX  117 

"October  (i,  Sunday.  12  AIi(hii<2;ht .  They  v(^]:)ort  us 
adrift.  Wind,  a  gale  from  the  northwai'd  ami  westward. 
An  odd  cruise  this  !  The  American  exjx'dition  last  in  a  hunp 
of  ice  al)t)ut  as  big  as  Washinjiton  Sciuare,  and  (hiving,  hke 
a  shanty  on  a  raft,  before  a  howhng  gale. 

"NovemlxM-  25. 

''Our  da^yhght  to-(hiy  was  a  mere  name,  three  and  a  half 
hours  of  UK^agre  twilight.  1  was  struck  for  the  first  time  with 
the  bleached  fac(>s  of  my  mess-matc^s. 

"S(>v(aity-seven  days  more  without  a  sunrise!  twenty-six 
l)efore  we  n^ach  the  solstitial  ])oint  of  greatest  darkness  ! 

''December  22,  Sunday.  The  solstice!-  the  midnight 
of  the  year  ! 

"i)eceml)er  2;^,  Monday.  Perfect  darknc^ss  !  Drift  un- 
known. Winds  nearly  at  rest  with  the  exception  of  a  littlt> 
gasp  fi'om  the  westward. 

"  Dectnnber  24,  Tuesday.  'Through  utter  darkness 
boi'n(\' 

"December  2.").      ' Y(>  Christmas  of  ye  Arctic  cruisers  !' 

''Our  Christmas  ])assed  without  a  lack  of  the  good  things 
of  this  life.  'C<oo(li(^s'  we  had  galore  ;  ])ut  that  best  of  earth.ly 
blessings,  the  conununion  of  IovcmI  syni])athies,  these  Arctic 
cruisers  luul  not.  it  was  curious  to  observe  the  de])ressing 
influences  of  (>ach  man's  home  thoughts,  and  absolutely  sad- 
dening the  effort  of  each  man  to  imi)os(^  uix)n  his  neighbor 
and  b(>  v(>ry  boon  and  jolly.  A\'e  joked  inct^ssantly,  but  1)adly, 
too  ;  ate  of  good  things,  and  draidv  u])  a  moiet^'  of  our  ITeid- 
sieck  ;  and  tluai  we  sang  negro  songs,  wanting  only  time, 
ni(>asui'e,  and  harmon\',  but  abounding,-  in  noise  ;  and  after  a 
closing  l)um])(a-  to  .Mr.  (b'in.nell,  adjourned  with  creditab/le 
jollity  from  tal)le  to  the  tlunitre." 

"X(>ver,"  writes  Dr.  Kane,  "had  I  enjoyed  {\\o  tawdry 
riuackery  of  the  stage  half  so  nuicli. 

"The  'Blue  D(^vils'  :    Cod  bless  us!    but  it  was  very,  very 


1 


////;  irin-JA'j'   Willi K  yoiLiii 


t'unuy.  Xoiic  l-:nf'\v  lh('ir  pai'i-.  ami  lhc  ])rimi!)t'T  cijuM  not 
I'fa'l  uiiljiv  (-noiiii.!!  to  (lo  iii-  Dlticc.  K\'('i'ytliiiiu'.  wtu'lhcr 
ji)cu>('.  oi-  jiKP.uiiaiit.  or  (•()tiiiii()ii])!acf.  or  ])atli(-Tic.  \va-  (l('li\-- 
crcil  in  a  iiiuii-l  racicdy  moudlonc  of  (ic>])aii' :  live  woiii>  at  a 
time,  or  iiiorf  or  lo--,  accorilinii  to  tl.o  I'aciiitics  of  llio  ])roiniJl- 
in.ii'.  Mc.U'rini,  with  a  pair  of  >cal-.-kiu  lioots.  hc.-towcd  \i\^ 
^'liil  upon  tlic  urntl''  AniK'tlc  :  ainl  Aunctlc  nearly  -ix  f'(-t 
hiuii,  rocci\'(Ml  it  with  nia-t oilotiic  .tii'acc  Annette  was  an 
Iri-iinian  nanieii  DaJy.  alio  I  iiii'ilil  ilefy  Imnian  I'l-inu'  to  hear 
her,  wlnle  halaneeii  on  t!ie  lu-el  of  her  lioot.  exclainn  in  I'icli 
lisa-i-ulnie  hrouue.  'ncii.  feat'iei'.'  witiiout  roarinii,: 

"After  till-  followcil  7'Ae  Slar  Spn/njh'l  linniKr:  tlien  a 
ciiniplicai'-il  Mar-('illai-e  i  jy  onr  l-r^neii  cndl^.  Henri  ;    t!i(-n  a 

-aiii)!'':-  lii)rni)il)e  hy  the  (li-.-r.r-ely  tahiOehl  Hl'Uce  ;  \\i('  orcjic^- 
t  i'a.  -  S:ew;trt  I'layiiiLi'  out  the  inte!'\-al-  on  the  Jew",— harp 
fri)!n  tiie  !()i)  of  a  lar^  l-ca>i<.  In  fact,  we  were  \-cry  iia])py 
fcHdW-.  Wo  liai!  had  a  foot  I'aee  in  the  inorniiiLi.'  o\'er  the 
mi' hiiii'lit  ico  fof  three  ])ur-e<  oi'  a  ilannfj  -liirt  eacii.  and  a 
.-piheinu  iif  tl.c  main  lirace.  Tlic  day  wa.-  niii'hl.  the  >tar.- 
-hi'iiiiLi:  fcehly  tli!'oinrJi  tiie  mi-t . 

■•  I  )ecen,i.<T  2^.  Satnrdaw 

"id'nm  my  \-ery  -mu!  dj  i  1  reioic(>  at  th.e  cominLi'  -uin  ]-i\'i- 
deiii---  11,,;  !m  ].<■  nii-ial-:en  i'on\-inec  me  that  tiie  healtii  of  onr 
i-yt-w.  n'\er  r(-dnu'  uonn  a  \"er>"  -oninl  ha-i-.  mn-t  sink  umlci- 

tui-e  ::]\,\  ;',,;■  j I m  --  ol'  air  in  ii:e  h> m  weei i-deck  Tarla.m-.  (•••mniit 
\"    ai'  '■!;,l,.,h  (it  hci'\'/!-.i'  ii   wiiiild  iir  niy  dnty  to  nme  a  rhan:^e. 

Pi' •!■■,•,... I,    the    -Mlnln'    of    hilMO-.    the    ^\v\    lieat     ol'    -to'ee-,    alld    I '' : " 

i'n:;,'  -  nf  tie  -alley,  all  >>'   'hem  nnhii  ermit  t  im:.  what   w.indei- 

lh;!i        We      n.CeW       feehle.         T.e,.      -hoTt        fa  ee      of      ('hl'l-Illla-      |)ay 

';■  ■  .■■'o-d  no  all  I  >nr  ,  ,jhe-i'-  e\ef  pi  (  i  •■life]  I.  It  pained  me  to 
-'■e    niy    h''"';d    l.ii\-eh.    (I'ir   -triim:e-t    man.    faintimr   with    the 

ev.;-;  ;:  .•!.  'i  '  '■  -yi.ee  ,  I'l,-  ,,■'  ^r\wyy  :>\\n^\'S.  the  e!',.\\-  niv  .,;jil 
!iaTea-!t!U'.   and   HiMre   i:eiie:\i|.       j-'aee-  are  m-(.)wiim  ])ale  :    and 


/;/•;    IIAVKX     EXPEDITION 


119 


an  in(l()lene(>  akin  to  apathy  soonis  to  l)c'  ciHH'ijin.^-  over  us. 
I  long  for  the  hght.  Dear,  clear  sun,  no  wonder  you  are 
worshi|)])e(l  !" 

It  may  l)e  inui<i;ined  with  w^hat  rejoicin<j;s  they  welcomed 
the  glowin,!;-  disk  when  on  February  18  they  fii'st  beheld  it. 
Three  ehec-rs  went  up,  and  Kan(^  himself  fired  a  salute. 
Though  the  dawn  inrrc-ased,  the  cold  twilight  still  C(jiitinued, 
and  the  i)ei'ils  of  their  situation  were  e\-er  pi'escnl.  Many 
times  the  conditions  of  the  ice  thi'eat(>ne(l  theii'  desti'uction, 
l)Ut  n(>l  until  June  o  did  its  a])])alling  disi'uption  fre(^  them. 
In  twenty  minutes  the  ice,  as  far  as  the  eye  c(.)uld  reach,  was 
a  vast  field  of  moving  Hoes.  Five  days  later  tliey  emerg(Ml 
into  the  o])en  water  and  mad(>  foi-  C.icjdhaven  (Jii  the  coast  of 
Cireenland. 

Here  th(>y  underwent  repairs,  and,  undaunted  by  the  recent 
pei'ils,  again  turnc^l  theii'  pi'ows  to  the  noi'tln  Skirting  tlie 
coast  of  (ire(Miland  as  far  ;is  the  ~?A  degree,  they  sailed  to  the 
wcstwai'd  and  sjjoke  •<\n  J'aighs!i  wlialing  slii])  near  the  Dutch 
Idand  about  the  7th  and  Sth  of  July.  l\v  the  11th  1  hey  wei'e 
l^usliing  thcii-  wa>'  tln'ough  tlie  accunnikiTions  of  ice  in  l-Jufhu 
I>ay.  and  her(>  the  gallant  little  Princt  AVk  it,  on  lier  way  back 
to  join  the  s(>a!"ching  s(juadi'on,  continued  in  their  company 
until  the  ."Id  of  August,  when  she  hove  oif  to  the  wc'slward 
to  try  a  more  soutliern  ])a-sage. 

Pushing  bi'avely  agaiiist  th.e  odds  of  imjx'uet  ral)le  ic(^ 
barriers:  bloel^ed  at  (n-ery  marieeu^'re  to  forc(>  a  ]iassage  : 
nine  more  month-  of  wintei'  threatening  the  enfeebled  ci'ew; 
the  bra\'e  !)e  IIa\'en  detertnined  to  gi\'e  u])  the  imecjual  l)attle, 
and  Di'.  Kane  makes  this  entry  :  — 

" -vugust  b),  Tuesday  : 

''  Ri--<cii(  is  clo>e  ,a<tern  (>f  us  ;  sh.e  got  thi'inigh  .about  noon 
yestei'ilay.  i^ur  connnodoi'c  has  rc^solved  on  an  immediat(^ 
return  to  the  United  States." 


CHAPTER   \'III 

Search  for  Sir  John  I'l'iuikl'm  (■(inli)iiic(l.  —  Skvlso  journey  of  Captain 
Austin's  s(|ua(h'on.  — Ji(iui-n  oi  Prince  Albert  under  conunand  of 
Captain  Kennedy.  — ]5ellol. 

The  I)i'ilish  scarcliini;-  sciuadron,  inchidinj^  the  Rcsohite, 
the  Assislaiicr,  the  Pioneer,  and  tlic  Intrepid,  wlilk'  \viiit(M"iii,<2; 
in  the  vicinity  of  ( 'oi'iiwaUis  Ishmd  and(!rif[ith  Ishind,  had 
held  fre(|\ient  conuuunicat ion  and  ])laini(Ml  for  ('X])l()ration 
joui-neys  on  sled_ii;es  to  l)e  undertaken  as  early  as  ])()ssil)Ie  the 
followiiiLi,-  s|)i'in<i;.  I'ld'ore  the  winter  hectune  too  se\-ero, 
depots  of  provisions  ^\'ero  establisluMl  to  he  used  by  the  sledju;- 
in.ii  pai'ties,  and  tlie  men  trained  in  sl(Ml,<>,'e  (h-a,ii'iiin,<i'  and  walk- 
iii.ii  exercises  that  they  niijiht  l)e  in  <i,()od  ])hysical  condition 
when  the  time  for  a  test  of  endurance  should  arrive.  Cnder 
the  direction  of  ("a])tain  Austin,  detailed  ])lans  were  foi'med 
foi'  carei'ul  exploi'uliou  of  i>lan(ls  and  lands  alonj^;  Parry 
Strait.  'I'o  ('aptain  Penny  was  entrusted  the  thorou,i>;h 
search   of   \\'ellin,<;toii   ( 'hamnd. 

.\s  eai-l>'  as  the  Pith  of  April,  PS.")!,  the  ])arties  intende(l  for 
the  westwai'd  explorations,  numheriu^ii;  one  hundi'ed  and  four 
men.  procee(led  under  the  conuuand  of  ('aptain  ()nnnaney 
to  the  noi'thwest  end  of  (Iridith  Island,  and  there  the  entire 
encampment  was  closely  insp(>cted  by  ('a])tain  Au>tin. 

Th(  ext  I'aordinary  recoi'ds  of  the  six  ''extendiMl'"  parties, 
tho-euilh  in<truclions  to  ^o  the  farthest  ])()ssil)le  distance, 
wii'e  a-  loHow-  :  I'ii'-t,  the  sle(|ov  Udiitnei.  imdei'  ('aptain 
*)mmaney.  ti'a\-elled  on  south  shore,  was  absent  sixty  <lays, 
and  ei)\i!-(M|  four  hundr<Ml  andeiulity  miles,  t  wo  hundr(Ml  and 
fi\f  ol  which-  \\a-  pre\  ionsly  unknown  coa>t.  Second,  the 
-Iciiuv  'I'riK    Phil,  under  i/ieiilenaid   ()sborn,  t  i'a\'elled  (jii  t  h(> 

120 


'i--'  '?^^^: 


.  ^c  dy^i^ 


SEARCH    FOR    SIR    JOHN    FRASKLIX  3  21 

so\ith  shore,  was  ul)s('nt  fifty-eight  (lays,  covered  five  hun(b'(>(l 
;i.iul  six  miles,  ami  discovered  seventy  miles  of  coast.  The 
third  sledge,  Enterprise,  under  Lieutenant  Brown,  travellcMl  on 
south  shore,  was  absent  forty-four  days,  and  covered  three 
hundred  and  seventy-five  miles,  including  one  hundred  and 
fifty  of  i^reviously  vmknown  coast.  The  True  Blue,  making 
the  most  western  point  reached  103°  2.V  west  longitud(\,  a 
point  about  halfway  b(dween  Leopold  L<land  and  Point 
Turnagain  on  the  American  continent. 

Of  the  three  parties  designed  for  the  search  of  the  north 
sh()r(\,  the  fii'st  sledg(\,  Lady  Franlditt,  under  command  of 
Lieutenant  Aldi'icli,  was  absent  sixty-two  days,  (-(jvered  fiv(> 
hundi-e<l  and  fifty  miles,  and  discovered  >eventy  mih's  of 
coast.  Tli(>  second  sledge,  Pers(  n  rcnee,  under  Lieutenant 
ALC'lintock,  was  al)sent  eighty  days,  and  covered  seven 
hundred  and  sixt}'  miles,  forty  mil(>s  of  wliich  was  ])r(>viousl}' 
undi>cover(>d  Ct^ast.  The  third  <le(lg(\  RcsnJuJe,  under  Sur- 
geon Bradford,  was  absent  eighty  da\'s,  and  covered  six 
hundrcMJ  and  sixty-nin(^  miles,  and  discovered  one  hundred 
and  thill y-fl\-(^  miles  of  coast. 

To  Lieuteriaut  ALC'lintock  was  due  the  honour  of  reaching 
the  farthest  we>t,  74^  3S'  north  latitud(>,  and  114''  20'  W(\st 
longitude.  <  )n  this  journey  MTlintock  reache(l  Bushman 
C'o\'i'.  IVIelville  Island,  \vhere  l^irry  had  encam])ed  .hme 
11,  1S20.  Trac(v- of  his  st;iy  were  found  by  [M'C  "lintock  and 
later,  U]X)n  crossing  to  ^\'inter  Harbor,  on  a  large  stone 
boulder  he  found  the  following  inscription:  — 

Ills  I'ritaimlc  Majesty's 

Ships  Ilecla  and  ( iriper, 

(  'oiumandeil  by 

W.  C.  Parry  and  Mr.  Liddon, 

Wintered  ill  the  adjacent 

Harbor  IS  19  20. 

A.  Ti-her.  Scul])t. 


^■1-1 


THE   CHEAT    WllEI'E   yOETII 


It  AV;is  (-viili'iit  tli;ti  im  man  \\vA  vi>ilc<l  the  >])0l  .-incc  that 
eaji\' <ial(',  and  a  hare  was  louud  ncaa'  th<_'  rcx'k  so  tame  tliat 
she  would  ulnio>t  allow  tlic  iiK'U  t(j  ttjUfu  licr.  3»r('liiitock 
added  the  fi,iiUi'e-  iNol  to  the  iii-eri]jtiou  and  prepared  to 
return  to  tlic  .-hip.-,  wliich  he  j'caclicd  .July  4. 

Tlic  i)arti('<  (jruaiiize.I  lor  the  ])ur])(j-c  of  de]")o>ithi^'  pro- 
\-i-ion.-,  .-etliiiL!:  u])  mark.-,  and  makhiy,'  oh>('rvatioii.-.  AV(']'e 
ahsciit  fi'(jm  the  -hip<  duriii,u;  ])"!'iod-  <jf  frijm  tweh'e  to 
thirty-four  d.ays.  Stramr*'  as  it  ma\'  .-ecm,  they  uiiderw(-ii1 
_U'r(-ater  hard.-jiij)  and  -uffered  nioi'i'  than  the  "extended 
partie-/"  v\'ihch  i'clurni''l  in  excelh-nt  eoMiditiim,  whereas 
jio  ](■--  tliau  twcnty-ci^ht  ni'Mi  were  fro-t-hitf-n,  and^  one 
died  frtjm  exhau-lion,  oi  tho.-e  .-hariiui;  thi'  shorter  excur- 
sioir-. 

Tlie  -ix  ]):u'tii'-  de,-i'j,-tiaied  for  the  expltjralion  of  W'cllinu- 
t(jn  ( 'hannf-l  were  und.iT  the  command  in  ^'a])i::in  ."-^luari, 
AFf-^rs.  Mar-liah.  .}.  Slcwart,  and  Ih-id,  and  Surii:''ons  Smhcr- 
land  and  (  iood^-ir. 

I'rom  t!i(-  out^el,  A|)ril  17.  i'ncy  encouiH ''I'l'd  di.-au'rceatilc 
wcalln'r.  whicii  cnn.-iilfraiily  dfjaycd  di"ir  ])ro2ro--.  How- 
vvt'V.  ('jijjiain  Penny,  wlio  lia<l  u'cncral  .-upci'x-i-ii  m.  wa-  for- 
1un:it''  (Houuh  1o  di.-co\'rr  "a  ^A'ile  w('-t '.x'ard  -trail  of  open 
wai'T.  lyinu,  ;donu'  ihc  forllna  >idc  oi  the  l;!nd-  wiiidi  fiank 
l'.:iri'ow'-  S'ra.il  and  i'arr\-'-  Strait."  l-iniiaiiin-  tiic  ice  !anc< 
wiha    a    lioal.    lie    pi  la-l  rated    up    *)ueeii',-    C'iiannel    a-    lai'   a- 

]i::rinu'    I-!a!ld.    an'!    <  'ape    iJeecher.         !')eimi,'    ahie    \n    liroei-f-il    no 

fi!r!!,er,  l;c  T'-lnrned  to  the  -hip<.  At  thi-  point  "a  tine  open 
-'■;!    -I  i'l  ;  :-!i"d    inehiii'ily   away   to    lli"    iiortl!.    ' -ut    hi-    iVaLriJe 

Imi,:'     \'-;.^    in-e(  |'ii>  ,'.,.,  ;     j,,!'    a    X'oyai^e    ol'    '  ' ! -(■o\-e|'y .         {-"nlly    pep- 

-n:'d'"l  !h;e  Id'.inid'n  lim-i  \\:-yf  iMJIowed  t'h-  roii;.'.  }m-  i';ii!ed, 
d' i\\-.'-'-r.  in  e(  i!e.-iia''ie^  t'ap'Mni  .\u-iin  oi  li.e  trndi  ol  lii- 
the^,ry,    ai,M     ;i-.     \>'id:()M;     I'la'     o'lln-r"-     co,  u  )er;i  t  ;( ,t  i .     nollanLi: 

}ie:ii;,d    oUi     hy    t!,e    Ad:ii!r:ilty    >puadron,    wlhej;,    alter    two 


SKAlK  U     FO'U     Sin    JOHN     FIL\.\KLIX  Vlo 

ini'*'tVcin;il  ;iU<M!i])ts  to  enter  Smith  and  ,]on(\s  sounds,  rc^- 
turned  to  Kn.iiland." 

An  unlikely  tale  told  t(.)  old  Sir  .Jolni  Ivoss  by  the  I'^skinios 
neai'  ("ape  \'oi'k,  to  {\\v  eft'ect  that  in  the  wiiilca'  of  1810  two 
s!iii)s  were  wreck(Ml  in  the  ic(^  oil'  Cape  Dudley  l)i,a;s;X^s  and 
;ifterwards  ransacked  and  burned  by  the  natives,  and  the  crew 
massacred,  determined  Sii'  John  to  in\-esti<i;ate  tlu^  slor\'  as 
closely  as  ])(>s>iblc  and  then  I'etuiTi  in  tlu^  Felix  to  l''n,<i'iand. 
Ivv'en  ;U'tei'  his  I'etui'u  h{)m(\  he  s(>enis  to  have  Ixm'u  firm  in  the 
belief  that  Sir  .John  b'rankiin  and  the  crt'W  of  the  Ercbu-s  and 
Terror  ])ei'ishtMl  in   l)alfin  ]^)ay. 

Havitiii;  made  a  clos(>  ins])ection  oi  this  ba}'  before  his  re- 
turn, he  describes  th.e  rc'sults  (jf  his  search  as  follows  :  "Mariy 
im])()rtant  coi'rect ioie;  and  \-;duable  additions  Vv'cre  made  to 
the  charts  of  the  nuich  fi'e(|U(m{ed  eastern  side  of  BalHn  l^ay, 
whicli  has  been  more  (•lo>ely  obsei'ved  and  navi,t;;Uedi  l)y  this 
than  ai;y  formci'  ex])e(liiion  :  and,  nuah  to  nay  satisfaction, 
co'ifirminti,'  the  kiiiiuj^'e  and  lonuilude  of  e\-ery  headland  I 
had  tlie  oi)])oi'tUiUty  oi'  iayina;  down  in  the  yeai'  ISb"-'." 

We  turn  no\'.'  to  conliinie  the  stoi-y  of  anotlici'  expedilion. 

I'he  little  I'riiirr  A  inert,  v.'hicti  s]~)()!~.e  the  Advartce  an.d 
lusem  ii!  iKilhn  I'ny,  .luiy  \'2,  bS.ll,  on  her  return  triji  to 
northern  >\'atcrs.  hail  lu  en  most  car(>ful!y  o\-!rhaul(Ml  and 
refit  t(Ml  for  iiei'  :irduous  ('nteria'i-e.  ilei'  commandei"  was 
('ai)tain  Kemicdy,  aial  ,-ec(>:id,  in  conuiaiud  was  i.ieutiaiant  ,!. 
I^>ellor,  a  >'ounu'  I'reiu'li  oflictM'  noted  h)r  his  ad\"(>nt urous 
si'lrit  and  chai'uiin.ti'  jx-i'sonality,  wh.o  h.ad  volunbM'red  his 
sei'\ices.  Amoriu'  tlie  crew,  all  of  whom  wei'c  ])ick(nl  mc'U, 
was  John  H;'])b-nrn,  whi)  had  accom]nuiie(l  Sii-  John  !'"!'ank!in 
on  thaa  first  laiul  exjfediiion  A\'hich  ca.me  near  proxuna,'  fatatl 
to  the  eniire  ])art\'.  Another  of  the  nuai  had  accom'pariied 
Dr.  l{ae  on  hi-  fii->t  jounuy  to  l\epulse  p.a\'.  and  a  tliii'd  liad 
accom]);in!eil  Sii'  John  iricha!-dson  in  his  ixjat  journex'  throui^h 
the  interior  of  Anua'ica. 


Vl\ 


TLIK   CllKAT    WHITE  yOUTIl 


l)iscou!';ii;in,L!;  conditions  of  ic(^  and  wc^atlicv  mot  the  gal- 
lant crew  in  I'rincc  lic'gcnt  Inlet.  r'lou<2;hin<i;  a  way  thi'ou<2;h 
a  tortuous  course,  the  Prince  Albert  succ('C(lin<>;  in  rcachin,!;; 
l^hvin  Bay  only  to  find  it  icc-l)ound  and  iini)assal)l('.  I)atly 
I^a\'  and  I'^ury  Px'ach  \vcr(>  also  iini)Ossil)lc  (jf  access,  and  iuav 
the  condition  of  the  ice  hecominj;'  so  alarniinji',  they  j;-a\'e  u]) 
an  attempt  at  the  west  side  of  the  inlet  and  made  a  liast}' 
]-etreat  to  Port  l>owen.  whei'c  ti'ac(\s  of  Sir  Edward  Pai'i'y's 
])a!l\',  which  winter((l  thei'e  in  1<S2."'),  were  still  discernible. 

To  a\'oid  wint(-rin,ti'  at  so  gi'cat  a  distance  from  the  sceiK^ 
of  the  e.\i)lora1  ions  planned  for  the  followinii  s])rin<2,',  they  re- 
ci'ossed  the  strait  and  ai)i)roache(l  the  sh()i'(>  h)r  the  ])m'])os(> 
of  makinii,'  a  landinj;'.  ("a])tain  Keimedy,  acc()m])anie(l  by 
inur  n\'  the  crew,  cast  oil  in  a  j.iutta-])ercha  boat  and  made  for 
th(>  beach.  r])on  landin<i'.  ('a])tain  Kennedy  ascended  the 
cliffs  of  ('ape  Sep])in,u's,  and  deci'iefl  Port  Leoj)old  fre(>  fi'om 
ice.  Ilopin^a,'  to  put  the  Prince  Alherl  in  this  sai'e  harboui',  lie 
at  once  made  an  attem])t  t(j  r(\ioin  h.is  shij),  ])ut,  U])on  I'cach- 
iii'i,-  lh(-  shoi'c,  found  to  his  consternation  that,  owin<i;  to  the 
suddc'U  mo\-in.t;'  of  tlie  ice-pack,  he  could  not  I'cjoin  her  and 
that  >he  was  beina;  merrily  cai'ried  down-sti'cam  in  s])ite  of 
e\-ei'y  elfoi't  of  the  men  on  boai'd  to  stop  her  pro,ui'(>ss.  Idie 
shadows  of  iiiuht  came  u])on  them  rapidly,  and  the  t(Mn))es- 
tuou-  roai'iii.L';.  ^rindinu',  and  tossinu,'  of  the  ice  was  all  that 
could  be  >i'<'\\  or  he;ird. 

A  mo-1  unromi'oi't  able  niji,-ht  followecl  theii'  uiihick}'  ad- 
\'i  iiliu'e.  Their  boat  was  the  only  ax'ailahile  sh(>iler,  and  this 
>er\'cil  foi'  ;i  eo\-erim!,-  under  which  one  man  ;d  a  t  me  took  an 
hour'-  iiiicomiort  able  I'cst .  wh  le  the  others  exei'cised  to  keej) 
liieir  liiidie-  I  rom  freezing',  'i'he  next  moi'niiiii:  at  dawn,  ui)on 
UKiniibmL!,  the  (Tiffs  onci'  moi'c,  their  alarm  wa>  increased 
by  the  iii(-laii(Toly  fact  that  the  -hip  had  completely  dis- 
appcai'i'il    fi'oiM    \'iew. 

Xo    more    forloi'ii    ca-tawax's   can    be    inamlued.      "Idie   onlv 


nETCHN    OF    THE    PIUSCE    ALBKlir  12.") 

initij;;itiu,a;  cifcutiistaiicc  in  their  sorry  couditioii  was  the 
ku()\vk'(l<i(>  that  on  the  other  side  of  the  harl)our  at  Whaler 
Point,  Sir  Jam(^s  l^oss  had  h^ft  a  deposit  of  provisions  about 
iwo  years  before.  To  tliis  ])()int  tlieir  stejis  were  now  (Hreeted, 
and  ui)on  rt^aching  tlie  depot  their  hopes  revived  somewhat 
wh(ni  th(>y  found  tlie  condition  of  th(>  provisions  exec^llent. 
The  liouse  left  by  Sir  James  Ross  was  in  fair  condition,  the 
fla,u;  and  record  were  easily  found,  and,  resiajncnl  to  their  fat(>, 
Kinmedy  and  his  companions  detcMiniruxl  to  face  tlie  ])ossibil- 
it}'  of  passing  the  long  Arctic  winter  with  tlie  best  possible 
grac(\ 

"It  was  now,"  says  Kemiedy,  "the  lOth  of  Se]^t(Mnb(M'. 
AMnter  was  evid(Mitly  fast  s(4ting  in,  and,  from  the  distance 
the  shi])  had  been  cai'ried  dvu'ing  that  disastrous  night, — ■ 
whetlicr  out  to  s(\i  or  down  the  inlet  we  could  not  conjecture, 
—  there  was  no  hope  of  our  l)eing  able  to  r(\ioin  lier,  at  l(>ast 
during  (he  ])reseiit  season.  Ther(>  remained,  th(M'efoi'(\  no 
alternative^  but  to  make  u])  our  minds  to  ])ass  the  winter,  if 
necessary,  whei'c  we  W(M'(\  The  first  objiH't  to  be  attended  to 
was  the  er(M'ting  of  some  sort  of  sludter  against  tlu^  dail>'  in- 
creasiug  inclemency  of  tli(>  weatlu'i':  and  foi'  this  ])ur])ose, 
the  launch,  left  !)y  Sii'  James  Ro^s.  was  selected.  TI(>r  main 
mast  Vv'as  hud  on  su])])orts  at  the  bow  tmd  stei-u,  tibout  nine 
f(M'i  in  height,  and  by  s])i-(\iding  two  of  luM'  sails  o\-er  this  a 
vci'v  toliu-able  roo  was  obtaincnl.  A  stove  was  set  up  in  tlie 
i)()dy  of  the  boat,  with  the  ])i])('s  running  througli  tlu^  roof; 
and  we  w(n"(^  soon  sitting  by  a  coinfortabl(>  fii'e,  which,  after 
oui'  long  exposure  to  the  wet  and  cold,  we  stood  wry  mua'h  in. 
need  of." 

It  w:is  the  iuteutiou  of  ('a])t;iiu  Keun(uly  to  make  sl(-dge 
journexs  to  distant  ])oints  in  tlie  ho])e  of  sighting  tlu^  Pi'iiu'c^ 
Alhfii  or  discovering  t!';ices  of  th(>  Knhns  and  Tirmr,  -  but 
])ef(;i'e  the  necessai'v  ])i-e]):U';itious  were  com])lete(l,  some  fi\-e 
weeks   after   their   seoaration   from   the   shii),   a  .-hot    eclioed 


I2i; 


rJIK   CRKAT    WHITE    NOHTIf 


thi'ouiih  tlic  slilliicss.  ;ui(l  Licutctuiiit  IJcllot  niid  seven  of 
the  crew  of  I  lie  i'rina  AUxrl  (viiue  lo  theii'  ri'^cue.  After 
two  i)i'(>\-ioiis  jiltempts  to  liiid  their  loii<;-l()st  coinnules, 
the\-  h:ul  s;iecee(l(>(l  in  (li'a,u,!i,iii.ii;  the  jolly-!)o;it  ;ill  tiie  way 
IVom  I^atty  l')ay.  whn-e  the  I'rincc  Al'in  li  was  seeui'elx'  inooi'ed. 
Of  this  hapjjy  reunion,  ('a])ta!n   Kennedy  writes;  — 

"11  can  liai'dl;\'  oe  a  inatt('i'  of  suipi'ise  that  the  reaction  in 
the  state  of  our  feelint;'s,  eonse(|uent  upon  this  unex))e('led 
UKM'tin.i!,'  with  our  h)n,'i'-lost  friends,  shouhl  ha\-e  been  sti'ikin,^; 
;ind  iininedi:iie,  and  in  dircH't  proportion  to  our  h)r!ner  sohci- 
tude  and  dejection. 

"!t  \v;is  l)Ul  fi\'e  weeks  '!iy  the  chime'  since  our  (hsas- 
ti'ous  sepai'jilion  from  the  Prince  Alhcii:  but  th(\v  were  liv(> 
i/uirs  of  (h'ea!'y  anxiety  and,  de<!)ondency  fa-^t  niera,inii'  into 
somet  hiiiii'  hike  desi)air.  We  had  a  jo\'iai  ex'eninii',  \c\  the 
readei'  he  \vr\\  assured,  in  our  little  launch  tliat  17th  of  ( )c- 
toher,  and  a  jo\'ial  housewai'ininu.  out  of  ilei'  .AIaje.->1y"s 
stoi'es  at  Port  Leopold,  enjoyed  nolle  the  les~^  from  the  ab- 
sence of  an>'  ui'im  \'ision  of  a  loiu;;  recl^oniiiii'  to  dischar^'e  with 
'miiH>  host"  on  the  inoi'row.  .\nd.  w'  kept  it  lU).  too,  let, 
me  tell  you,  wit  h  Io!;'j:  yai'us  ,;!'  our  ad,\-e!it  ur(>s.  and  I'omdi  old 
sea  son.sis  :  and  in  hriimnimi'  cup>  of  f;i,m()i;,->  chocol;ile,  '  clieer- 
iim'  hut  no!  iiiel)i'i;itiim-."  dr.mk  most  loyiiily  ';il  Ilcr  M;ij- 
e.-t\-'s  expen-i'i  a  !iapt»y  ni'M'tini';  with  II.  M.S.  Ivrihiis  and 
T<  rrar.    and    their   gallant    crews. 

"ll  w;i-  some  days  attci'  t!;i:-  before  our  preparation^  foi' 
r(-t  urnini!,-  to  i  he  -!iip  were  (■omp!";ei!.  At  he-l .  on  W'eihie,^- 
day.  the  -I'Jd,  exaeily  six  weei<^  ;i!'ter  our  fii'st  deieution  ;it 
\\  !i;:ler  i'oiiil  .  we  -i-t  out  ;  aft  er  dejxisit  iiiu'  a  p;ipei'  in  t  he  cyl- 
iiider,  colli  .•limic.',  in iorni;! !  loM  oi'  our  proceed niU'-  U])  to  thi- 
d.'.l".  and  i)!;!;ii!Li'  ;i|l  i  he  loe-"  -ioi'e^  in  pioj)er  order  and 
:'eciirliy  ior  iIm'  u-e  oi'    ;n!\-    p;:rty    thai     should    eome    ;iftei' 

U-. 

"<)ni'  proxi-ioii  -  :,nii  '!r,ee*  o!   all   kind-  were  .-toweil  on  a 


BETUUN    OF    THE    PlilNCE    ALBKliT  127 

siront;;  sl(>ig;li,  A  nuist  w;is  tlien  s(^t,  uiul  a  sail  hoisted  in  the 
jolly-boat,  and  a\va>'  we  went  before  a  .si)anlvin<i,'  fair  wind 
()\-ei-  tlu>  smooth  ice  (^f  Leopold  Harbor  at  a  rat(>  which  'all 
the  Kin<;''s  hoi's(>s'  e(juld  hardi}'  have  b(>en  ecjual  to.  We  liad 
not  gone  half  across  the  ba}',  however,  before  our  sleigh, 
wholly  unused  to  this  style  of  locomotion,  broke  down,  and 
it  cost  us  tlie  best  |)art  of  the  day,  before  we  could  repair  our 
damage  and  start  afresh..'' 

"In  our  endeavor  to  r(>ach  Air.  B(-lIot's  encani]iment  of 
th(>  IGth,"  c()ntiuu(\s  AIi'.  Kennedy,  "  \xc  continued  on  foot 
longer  than  we  sliould  isave  done,  and  the  consecjuence  was, 
that  !)eing  ov(>rtaken  by  night  before  looking  for  camping 
gi'ound,  we  found  ours(4ves,  Ix^fore  we  wca'c  aware  or  had 
time  t(^  I'eilect  on  the  priMlicannent  we  had  got  iut(^,  groping 
about,  in  the  darknc^ss,  and  with  a  heavy  showe-r  of  snow 
falling,  for  somc^  ])it  of  tca'i'a  firma,  (for  we  had  been  all  day 
U])on  th(>  ice),  wher(^  v\T'  could  ])it('h  the  tent.  We  stumbled 
ai  la>1,  after  making  oiu*  shins  mor(>  freel}'  ac(|uaint(Ml  than 
was  allogetlier  agr'Hvible  \\'!th  the  sliaip  (Mlges  of  th(~  broken 
ice,  into  a  hue  sciu;u"(^  of  chnir  ])each,  betwinai  souk^  heavy 
masses  of  stnindcHl  ice.  Choosing  out  the  softt^st  i)art  of  a 
sheh-ing  rodv  of  hiiieston{^  of  whicii  tlic  l)eacli  was  comjV)sed, 
we  ])iicli(Ml  liic  tenl,  sjircvid  the  oilcloth,  and  with  some  coals, 
whicli  w(^  liad  bi'on.ght  with  us  from  Whaler  Point,  ])oiled  a 
good  kettle  of  t(\i.  for  all  luuids. 

"AH  tlu^se  })reparations  wei'e,  howin'ei",  but  introductory 
to  another,  wliicli  we  i'oundL  a  most  diiUcult  ])i'obl(Mn  indecnl  — 
namc^ly,  to  contrive  how  wo  v.'ere  all  1(.)  ipass  the  night  in  the 
siiigle  little  tent  we  had  brought  with.  us.  We  all  got  in, 
C(M'tainl>',  and  got  the  ketth^  iii  tlie  mid(ll(>  :  but  as  foi'  lying 
down  to  AiH'])  it  was  uttcM'ly  out  of  i!ie  rp.u-stion.  A  London 
onuu])Us  on  ;i  I'acitu;,'  d:iy  after  hve  o'clock,  was  tln^  only  ])ar- 
iu]o\  T  could  th'iu.iv  of  to  our  atTempt  to  slo^v  thirteen  men, 
including  our  colosscd  carj)enter,  into  a  tent  intended  foi'  .-^ix. 


VIS 


THE   GHEAT    WHITE  NORTH 


At  last,  after  sonic  <k'lil)('i'ati()n,  it  was  arraii<ie(l  tliat  wo 
should  >it  down  six  in  a  row.  on  each  si<l('.  which  ^\•ould  leave 
li>  aliout  three  feet  clear  to  stretch  our  l(\us.  Air.  Bellot, 
who  formed  the  Thirteenth,  licin^ii  the  nio>t  t-oni]nict  and  st(jw- 
ahle  of  the  ])art\'.  a^ireed  to  s(iueeze  in  underneath  them, 
stii)ulatimi  onl\-  h)r  a  clear  foot  s(juar(^  for  his  head  alon,u'side 
the  tea-kettle.  ]^ein<i  unjjrovided  with  a  candle>tick.  even  if 
tluM'c  had  lieen  rcjom  to  ])lace  one  an^'where,  it  was  arran<^-ed 
that  each  of  us  should  liold  the  candle  in  his  hand  for  a  quarter 
of  an  houiV  and  then  ])ass  it  to  his  nei_uhl)or.  and  thus  by  the 
aid  of  oui'  flickerin,u'  ta])er.  throu,tih  the  thick  st(>am  of  the 
l)oirm,U'  kettle,  we  had  just  enoti.uh  li,uht  to  ])re\'ent  us  putting 
our  tea  into  our  neighbor's  mouth,  instead  of  our  own. 

'''\\'ell.  hoys."  >uu-,iiests  om'  ever  jo\'ial  liist  mate.  n(Miry 
And<'r.-on.  'udw  we  are  fairl\'  >eate(l.  I'm  thiidviuii,  as  we 
can  do  nothin,<i'  else,  we  had  l»e.-t  make  a  ni^uht  of  it  auain. 
AMiat  say  you  to  a  son.U'.  Dick'.''  Whereu])on.  nothinji'  loath, 
Air.  liichard  Wehh  strikes  up.  in  the  first  st\ie  of  forecastle 
execution,  'Su-annah.  don't  you  cry  foi'  me.'  which  is,  of 
(•()ur>c,  receiveil  by  tlie  company  with  the  utmo>t  enthu-ia-m. 
'Ml'.  \\'ebb.  yoiu'  health  and  >ona\'  and  .ueiu-ral  a])])lause, 
and  empt^'iiui  of  tea-cans,  which  Mr.  John  Smith,  jjleadiim' 
inability   to  -inti',   undei'take-  to  reith'ui-l!   for  the  mu'ht. 

■' '  Ii'\'iiie,  my  lad,  ])a.--  the  candle.  ;ui'l  i;i\'e  u>  t  he  "  Tailor."  ' 
Air.  Ir\'ine.  you  mu-t  undei'.-tand.  ,i:v:itle  reader'.  ha>  dis- 
1  in':.ui-!iei!  him-el!'  by  -onie  ext  raorilinary  ]")erfoi'mance<  on 
tlie  bl;iMkei-b;iLi-.  duriiii;:  our  late  deieution  at  Wlialei'  I'oiiu. 
in  x'irtue  o!'  whii'h  he  ha<  been  foi'mally  installed  'Tailor  of 
tlie    b.XpedilioM.' 

"'The  '|\'iilor'  i-  acc()fdiim'l\-  u'ix-en.  con  nmnrr.  and  i<  ;i  re- 
Tiiar]-:ablr.  hi-ioi'y  of  kni'^'ht   of  the  tliimble.  who,  biu'\'inu'  his 

Uoo-c,  lil;e  l'l'o-l)'i'o  hi-  bi)ok<.  "be'.-Dii,'!  the  I'eneli  of  ])lum- 
lip'l.'  iiecoiiii-  ;i  'Sailor  bold.'  and  in  iha!  eapaeit\-  e:i-la\-e-. 
the  heart  ol'  a  !o\-c!\-  l:d\'  of  incalculable  wealtii.  who.  et  c.  etc. 


liEirUX    OF    THE    PllIXCE    ALBERT  129 

\\c  all  know  tho  rest.  'Kenneth,  you  monster,  take  that 
clumsy  foot  of  yours  off  my  stomach,  will  you  ? '  cried  out 
poor  Mr.  13ellot,  smothered  beneath  the  weight  of  four-and- 
twenty  legs,  upon  which  the  carpenter,  in  his  eagerness  to 
comi)ly,  jjrobably  drives  his  foot  into  ^Ir.  Bellot's  eye.  And 
so,  ])assing  the  song  and  the  joke  around,  Air.  Bellot,  occa- 
sionally making  a  sudden  desperate  effort  to  get  up,  and  sit- 
ting down  again  in  despair, — witli  a  long  'blow'  like  a 
grampus,  we  make  what  Anderson  calls  'a  night  of  it.' 
Xo  managinnent,  however,  can  make  our  solitary  candle 
last  beyond  twelve^  o'clock,  or  tlun-ealjouts.  Xotwithstand- 
ing  this  extinguisher  to  the  entertainuKHits  of  the  evening, 
?\fr.  Anderson,  while  som(>  are  dozing  and  hob-a-nob])ing  in 
their  dreams,  may  still  be  heard  kee])ing  it  up  with  im- 
abated  s])irit  in  the  dark,  wakening  every  slee])er  now  and 
tlien  with  some  tremendous  chorus  he  has  contrived  to  g(>t 
u])  among  his  friends,  for  the  'Bay  of  Biscay,'  or  some  favour- 
ite (Ireenland  melody,  with  its  inspiriting  burthen  of  'Cheeri 
lie,  ah  !    ch(M'ri-li(>  !'  " 

A  warm  \velcom(>  awaitiMJ  the  lost  on{\>,  when  a  few  days 
kiter  th(\\'  I'eaclu^l   tlie   shi]). 

"With  our  rcnurn  to  the  vessc^l,"  writers  !Mr.  KenncMJy, 
'"may  be  s;iid  to  luu'c  closed  all  our  op(M-ations.  as  far  as  the 
shi])  was  concHM'iU'd,  in  the  Arctic  seas  for  tlu^  year  1S51. 
There  rcMuained  now  only  to  mak(>  our  arrangements  for  the 
V(vsel  i^assiiig  the  nc^xt  six  or  (Mght  months  wliere  we  W(Mx\ 
and  for  ]')reparing  for  our  own  wintm'  journeys." 

Pre])arati()ns  \v(m-(^  comi)Iet(d  by  January  .">.  1S.V2.  and  the 
morning  of  that  day  the  men  on  snow-shoes,  with  dogs  di'ag 
ging  tl\(^  sl(Hlg(^s.  st;u'ted  off  amid  tlu^  cIumts  of  tlunr  conn-ad(\'^ 
and  th(^  y(>l])ing  and  b;u'kiim-  of  the  dogs. 

''The  first  object  of  tlie  journ(\v,'"  contimies  'Sir.  Kemieily 
"^'was,  of  c()urs(\  to  ascei'tain  wh(>tluM'  Vwvy  l-)eac]i  had  been 
a  retreating  ]n)int   to  any  of  Sir  .lohn  ri'aiikliir>  ])art\'  since 


l:;0 


THE  (;nEAr  white  yoiiTii 


it  \vas  vi>iie(l  by  LicuTcnaiit  EoMnson.  of  the  Knierprise,  in 
\s\\].  A  -ccondary  object,  should  (nir  ex])ectation<  in  tlii.s 
f('-])ccr  nut  be  reahzc(l.  was  to  iorni  a  first  <le])(jt  ol'  j)r(rv'i- 
^i()ns  iiefe.  with  the  view  (jf  carryin'i:  otit  a  more  exteiulcfl 
scarcli  a-  soon  as  eii'cunistanccs  wotild  ])cnrht.  It  was  ile- 
>irabl('  at  tlic  same  time  to  ascertain  the  state  of  the  r(jads, 
1 1\'  wiiicli.  (jf  I'ourse,  I  mean  tlie  yet  tnitrodd('n  >urface  of  the 
snow  (jr  ice.  in  the  direction  in  wliich  we  meant  to  <i'o,  before 
commcni'in.L!;  aii\'  ti'an-port.  on  a  lar<2:e  scal(\  bf>tween  the 
shi])  and  I'du'y  Picach  :  and  it  was  thou^irht  ad\'isable,  tlicrc- 
fure.  to  ,u'o  coni])arali\'cly  hu'lit.  A  <niall  .-u])])ly  of  penunican 
was  all  we  took  with  ns  in  tiddition  to  our  travellin.a;  re- 
fiuii'cmcnt-,  con.-isiinti  of  a  tent  ami  ])(d('-.  lilardcctimi  and 
]ii'()\-i-i()n~  for  a  w(<'k,  -ome  ,ti'uns  and  amnumiiion,  fu(-l.  anil 
a  c()()j-;i!i_u-  a]i])aranH.  in  all  wcjo'iiinrr  fr(jm  t\\'()  hundred  to 
two    hundr('d   and    fifl\'   ])ound>." 

Fro]n  ihc  oul-ct  the  t  ra\"(-llin'j;  wa-^  difhcult  and  ariluou-. 
'■  ...  iiol  infrc(juenll\'  after  toilinii;  lo  the  t(j])  of  an  incline. 
a  lui'ch  of  the  -l(-iLi,h  would  .-end  u-  carec'rhmi'  in  a  vei'}'  li\'(ly 
and  unex])ccte(l  manner  to  the  bottom,  lb-re  lollows  an  in- 
cident ill  our  hr-t  da\''-  journey,  wliich  cau-ed  u-  -ome  anni-e- 
ment  at  the  time,  and  carrieil  a  le-.-on  with  it.  whene\'er 
^\'|•  !:ad  to  eiicoiniti-r  any  of  the-e  ob>tacle<  afterward. 

'A\C  had  uot  about  liaflfway  U])  one  of  tho>e  \"illainou- 
.-teij,^.  whr.n  (ii;r  entire  coneu'c  o-;i\-('  unmi-lakablo  -i^LTi-  of 
a  toiideiicy   to  -ri-k  a  -ud.(lcn  de-cent.      Thert'  wa-  ju.-t    time 

:'o!'  M-  ■  o  (■■•-1  <  i;';'  1  he  t  raec.-.  all  1/Ut  ])ool'  Mr.  I)e!!ot  ,  who  wa- 
not  -ufiiei'-e;  ;y  aleft  in  >  li-etmaliltcj,-  hi<.  when  ,aWa\'  A\'ent 
the  d-i-h  and.  doM-.  and  Mr.  I'ellot   after  iliem  into  an  ab\--< 


at    tiK 
thai    < 


;i-:'e    t  i:c    o!il\-    lie  Ileal  loll    ot    t  ! 


r  tl,,.  --la-troj.he 
n  wa-  -ome  ~ix  in-li.-  nf  Mr.  I',cllot'-  hreU 
,abo\-e  t''i-  -urfcr.'  oi  b!;o  -iiow.  W'c  (JuLi.'  him  out  'a  \\'i-''r 
and  a  bicoi  ii);,ii'  fur  tlif^  re-t  of  t!io  joui'ney.  w!ir-ne\-er  any 
of  th'.-i-  pe-tiient    .-iiipe.-  had  to  be  cucotmtered  thereaftC'r."* 


CAPTAIN  KENNEDY— BELLOT  131 

On  the  Sth,  the  distance  to  Fury  Beach  l:)eing  ver}'  short, 
]\Ir.  Kennedy  decided  to  leave  the  sledge  and  two  of  the 
men,  and  press  on  with  ]Mr.  Bellot,  and  one  man  unen- 
cumbered. 

"It  ma}'  Ije  imagined  with  what  feelings,"  says  Kennedy, 
"wluni  we  really  had  come  upon  it,  we  approached  a  spot 
roiunl  which  so  many  hopes  and  anxieties  liad  so  long  centred. 
Every  object,  distinguished  by  the  moonlight  in  the  distance, 
became  animated  to  our  imaginations,  into  the  forms  of  our 
long-absent  countrymen ;  for  had  they  been  imprisoned 
anA'where  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  within  a  reasonal)le  distance 
of  Fury  Beacli,  here  we  felt  assured  some  of  them  at  least 
would  luiA'e  been  now.  But  alas  !  for  these  fond  hopes  ! 
riow  d(H'])ly,  though  perhaps  unconsciously  cherislied,  nonc^ 
of  us  proba])ly  suspected,  till  standing  under  the  tattered 
covering  of  Somerset  House,  and  gazing  silently  upon  the 
solitude^  around  us,  we  felt  as  we  turnc-d  to  look  mournfully 
on  each  other's  faces,  that  the  last  ray  of  hope  as  to  this 
cherislied  imagination  had  fled  from  our  hearts.  It  is  perhaps 
n(M'essary  for  the  vigorous  prosecution  of  any  diffictilt  obj(>ct 
that  for  the  moment,  some  particular  circumstance  in  tlie 
chain  of  0]K-rati()ns  by  which  it  is  to  b(^  effected,  should  seem 
to  tis  so  vitally  important  that  the  eve  is  l)linde(l  to  all  Ijeyond. 
The  spot  on  wliich  we  now  stood  had  so  long  \)OQn  associated 
in  our  minds  with  some  clue  to  the  discoA'cry  of  the  solution 
of  the  painful  mystery  which  hung  over  the  fate  of  Franklin, 
and  had  so  long  unconsciotisly  pei'haps  colourc^l  all  otu' 
tliought,  that  it  was  not  without  a  pang,  and  a  feeling  as  if 
the  main  ]:)urpose  of  oiu'  expcMlition  had  ])een  rlefeated,  that 
we  found  all  otn'  long-cherish(nl  anticipations  sliattered  at  a 
1)1()W  by  the  scene  wliich.  met  ovir  eyes.  Thu-<  my  friend  and 
I  stood  ])arah'zed  at  th(^  denth-like  solitude  around  us.  \o 
\'('stige  of  the  vi<it  of  a  human  lieing  was  liere  since  Fi'-u- 
t(aiant    Robinson   had    examined   the   de})ot   in    1849.     The 


\^]-2 


THE   (J I! EAT    WlirrK    NORTH 


>stoi'(.>s,  still  in  tlic  must  ix^rfcct  i)r('S(M'v;itioii,  were  precisely 
ill  the  \vell-;irruni:;(Hl  coiulition,  descrilxnl  in  the  clear  rcjiort 
of  that  eneri2;etic  officer." 

"His  own  notice  of  his  \'isit,''  continnes  ^\r.  K(>nne(ly, 
"Was  (leei)ly  buried  in  the  snow,  and  th(>  index  staff  he  luid 
])laced  o\-er  it  was  thro\\'n  down  and  _u:nawed  by  the  foxes. 
^\'eai■i(>(l  with  a  lon.t;-  and  fruitless  examination  we  took  up 
our  ([uarters  for  a  repose  of  a  few  hoiu's  in  Somei'>et  nous(>, 
the  franu^  of  \\'hich  was  still  standin,!^,'  entire,  hut  tlu^  co\'er- 
iiijj,'  blown  to  raii;s  by  the  wind,  and  oik^  end  of  the  house  n(\u'ly 
lill(-d  with  snow.  A\'e  li,<i,ht(Ml  a  fir(^  on  the  stove  which  had 
heated  tlu^  (-nd  occu])ied  by  Sir  ,h)hn  lioss's  crew  during  the 
(lr(\ii'y  winter  of   bS;]2-;);). 

''After  refreslnnii;  oiu'seU'es  with  a  warm  su])])er,  and  nod- 
diiiLi;  for  a  few  hours  o\'er  the  lire,  we  s(>t  out  about  11  p.m. 
on  our  ret  urn  to  our  encam])ment ,  wh.ich  we  i  r;!ched  by  2  a.m. 
of  the  fol!owin<i- moi'ihug.  ( )ur  return  fi-oni  tliis  ])oint  to  ih.e 
ship,  wh.ich  we  reached  about  o  p.m.  of  Saturoa}'  the  lOlh, 
was  liot   marked  by  auiy  incident   worthy  of  notice. 

■■\\'e  had  deposited  at  our  encampment  a  IH)-])ound 
ca-^c  of  ])emmican,  a  bag  of  coals,  two  mu--kets,  and  some 
anununit  ion.  whicli,  whiile  it  seized  as  a  re>er\'e  for  futui'e 
exijlorations  in  this  direction,  materially  liglitencd  the  laiivtur 
(»!'  the  dogs,  and  allowed  us  time  U)V  a  inoi'e  nrmute  examina' 
tioii  of  the  coast  th;ui  we  had  b(H'ii  able  to  inak(>  dui'ing  the 
outward  joui'iu^v.  Tlie  resuK.  !iowe\'er,  was  not  in  any 
i'f'--pcct  iuo;'!'  succ(>ssl'uj.  \o  traces  of  any  kind  ^vere  disco\'- 
ei'ed   \\-hi:'ii   could  thi'ow  hcdil   on   the  objcct<  of  our  seai'eh. 

"Thu-  en;le(l  (.ui'  :ir-t  joiu'iiey  to  Idii')'  lle.ach,  and  it,-  ri>- 
>U!!-  -;;'!-.[;.,  ■(!  ;i-  thai,  ill  th"  pi'eseiit  >t;ite  of  the  ice  ill  I'i'ilice 
neueiil'.-  Inlet,  tlie  lllore  extelidi'd  expiorat  ious  of  the  coa-l- 
liiie,  wiiieh  we  had  caieul;il''d  on  bcin-j,'  ablr  to  eommence 
(III  I  Mir  ivl  ui'i!  to  t  tu'  -iiip,  eoiili !  nut  now  be  ~-;ifely  uiidert  akeii, 
;ilid     inu-i     for    the    pre>enl     be    po-tpoiied.       We    Were    most 


CAPTAIN  KKyyEur  loo 

reluctantly  ('(jinpcllcd,  tli(M'cfore,  to  ]iass  the  next  iiioiith  in 
the  sliij),  oecu])ie(l  in  the  same  ^e-neral  routine"  duties  as 
those  on  which  we  had  been  during  the  earlier  ])art  of  tlu; 
winter.'' 

('a])tain  Kennedy  gives  a  vivid  descri])tion  of  Arctic  gah^s 
and  the  dangers  of  travel  during  a  t(>ni])est.  "Al)out  (Mght 
A.M.  in  the  morning  of  the  lotli  February,"  he  writes,  "'Mr. 
Bellot,  tlu"  carpenter,  Andrew  Irvine,  li(>nr}'  Anderson  (the 
first  mate),  and  myself  left  the  ship,  taking  with  us  two  cases 
of  ])emmican,  and  three  tin  jars,  each  containing  two  gallons 
of  si)irits  of  wine,  on.  a  sl(Mlge,  drawn  by  five  Eskimo  dogs, 
for  the  ]Mn']>ose  of  (le])ositing  them  a  shoi't  distance  on  the 
wa>'  to  Fur\'  l^>eacli,  and  returning  in  th("  evening.  After 
])roceeding  for  a  few  hours,  and  making  \'eiy  fair  ])rogress 
along  a  tolerably  good  ])ath,  a  strong  wind  aros(\  which  by  one 
P.M.  had  increased  to  a  ])(M'fect  hurricane,  s(j  tlnckly  chargc^d 
with  sTiow  that,  in  att(Mnj)ting  to  cross  a  bay  on  our  retui'n. 
we  l()>t  sight  of  tlu"  land  by  which  oui'  course  houKnvard 
had  been  guided.  In  short,  after  wandering  about  for  some 
time,  scai'cely  able  to  distinguish  (>ach  other  at  the  distaiv.'e 
of  a  few  i)aces,  we  found  that  ^ve  had  fairly  lost  our  way.  In 
tins  dilenuna,  we  set  two  of  the  five  fU)':y-  loose  fron)  tlu^ 
sledg(\  in  the  hojx"  that  th.ey  woiild  act  as  g'iiid,e<  bettei'  than 
when  drawing:  l)ut  tliis  ])ro\'ed  to  be  a  mistake,  as  tlicy 
wotild  not  lea\'(>  the  otliers.  At  Ia>t,  however,  they  all  set 
olY  together,  taking  the  sledge  witii  thi'iu  ;md  lea\'inu'  us  to 
our  fate.  As  we  afterwards  found,  they  reached  the  ship 
without  any  difficultx',  and,  as  may  r(^;idi]y  be  su])i)osed,  ])ut 
e\'ery  on(>  on  board  in  a  pei'fect  U'vvr  of  tei'i'or  and  anxiety  as 
to  what  had  become  of  us.  In  the  meant im(\  we  had  gon(~ 
on  floundering  ()V(>r  broken  ice,  until  W("  h-cl  once  more 
stuinbled  on  the  hmd,  but  wliei'e  or  wh.at  the  land  wa<  we 
liad  f;di(>n  UDoii,  iiobody  knew.  It  w;!<  something  cei't  airily 
to  know  We  were  not  marrhiii^'  ovrv  the  Inlet  or  out  to  <e:i.  in 


134 


THE   GREAT    WHITE  XORTII 


which  case  we  wtjuld  have  niarclied  on,  and  in  all  ])rol)ability 
ne\-er  rclurneil  :  Ijiit  in  other  respects  we  had  rather  lo>t 
than  (gained  hy  ^ucttini;;  on  tei'ra  firnia.  \\'ith  an  atni(jsj)her(? 
a>  thicic  as  jjea-^oup.  and  no  siui,  nio(jn,  (jr  stars  to  1h'  seen, 
there  was  no  k(-e])in.i;'  the  shore  (and  to  ,uo  on  one  .-ide  or  the 
other  wa>  1  (j  inciu'  the  Certainty  (jf  leisin^'  otn'selv('S  auain. 
(•ither  on  the  Inlet  or  on  the  landj  without  hn,ii,u'in,L!;  close  ii]) 
and  into  a  l)reak-neck  line  of  stranded  fragments  of  ic(\ 
which  iiiiUi'ated  the  ilirection  oi  the  beach. 

■'Ahjnu'  thi-  fonnidinole  ])ath  we  flonndercul  on  —  now 
coniiini'  hum])  i;])  a,LL:dnst  .--oine  hug*'  fragiiK'iit  of  ice,  or  ])itch- 
ing  ()\-('r  the  tdj)  of  it  into  a  hole,  excavated  in  the  snow  at  the 
hottom,  hy  the  whii'ling  eildies  of  the  wind  :  now  walking, 
now  crawling,  oee:i.-ion;dl\'  ttinihiliiiu'  iiit(.)  the  >now,  tuitil 
we  Were  all  hrouuht  II])  liy  a  cry  oi'  ])ain  li-oni  one  of  the  men 
who  had  met  a  '  hmilj  .'■/  r.<(  /nt  nt'  o\'er  the  ctl'sr  of  a  hank  of 
ice.  It  \va-  a  >ad  accidjMit.  Ijiit  the  wor>t  of  it  was.  that 
•di'u'V  -ettimj;  liim  on  hi<  len^.  nodiing  eould  induce  him  to 
move  a  -tej)  f;!;-ther.  liei'e  he  wa-.  and  here  he  maintained  he 
mu-l  remain  '  r-e'/Z/wy///  cm/;/,  ."  ddiej-e  AVa<  no  I'ea-oning  with 
the  ])oor  fellow,  who  certainly  had  sustained  a  A'ery  severe 
injury.  Inn  not  ;u>.ythinu'  like  -o  l)a'l  a<  he  had  inuiii'ined  it, 
and.  it  woul'l  ne\-er  d.o  to  le;i\-e  liim  lyini!:  here.  So  feiLmimi; 
to  take  ihni  ;i!  hi-  Word;,  we  propo-ed  to  hiuii'lle  him  uip  in  a 
h  ifn-ilo-ro'ie  and  t>ur\'  him  i!i  the  -now  tor  the  night  - 
ci'mfMi-iiim'  him  wiiii  the  a  —  urance  tiiat  We  would  cii-tauily 
cnui'-  li'M'lx:  (i)V  him  in  the  morning.  Thi-  Arctic  ])re-c!-ipi  ion 
hc'l  .'  maii.ic:il  eff'Tt  upon  our  ]);!.tient — the  hack  and  ii:e 
hrMk.-a  hone--  w^re  -])"e'!il\'  fot'uotten.  ;md  in  ;i  -hort  tmie 
h'-  w'::-  Mil  hi-  le'^-  iiuain.  ;md  we  all  t  I'udiiinu'  on  once  more  in 
tie  oM  rniiLi'h  ;ind  tunihie  -tyje  of  ))roLL're--iom  till  ai>out 
m''in:'i'.i.  \v>-  fmatd  oar-~ej\-('-  <l;indinu'  under  tlie  lee  of  -onie- 
thin'.:'  whii-'f!  liM.la-d  hl;e  ;i  l.;.iik  of  -now.  hut  whi'-li.  to  oiu' 
gi'e:U    urai  ific;i!  ii  ill.    ]iro\'eil    to   he   ihe   ])o\vder   hou>e   we   had 


CAPTAIN   KESyEDY  135 

erected  on  sliore  in  the  beginning  of  the  winter.  A  con- 
sultation WMr<  now  held  whether  we  should  cut  our  wu}'  into 
it  and  ])ass  th(>  night  here,  'accoutred  as  we  were,'  or  make 
for  the  shi]),  whicli  we  now  knew  could  not  be  far  off.  Our 
decision  was  for  the  latter,  and  the  only  question  now  was, 
how  to  steer  for  tlie  vessel.  This,  too,  was  decided  upon  at 
last,  l)y  each  of  the  party  pointing  in  turn,  in  the  direction  in 
which  he  thought  the  vessel  lay,  and  then  taking  the  mean 
of  the  bearings.  To  prevent  our  separating  in  tlie  drift 
(for  some  of  the  party  had  by  this  time  got  so  benumbed  with 
cold,  as  to  lie  unable  To  use  their  hands  to  clear  tlieir  cn'e- 
lids,  and  had  thus  become  literally  blind  with  the  accumula- 
tion of  the  snow  on  tlieir  eyes),  it  was  agreed  that  at  certain 
intervals  we  should  call  and  answer  each  other's  names,  and 
that  those  whose  eyes  had  suffered  least  should  tak(>  the 
others  in  tow.  In  this  order,  we  ])roceeded  for  the  vessel,  and 
fortunately  by  the  guidance  (jf  a  solitary  star,  that  could  be 
faintly  distinguished  throtigh  the  drift,  g(jt  near  (>nough  to  the 
sh.i])  to  hear  the  wind  whistling  through  tiie  shrouds  and  were 
thus  guided,  rather  by  the  ear  than  l)y  the  eye.  to  her  j^io-ition, 
and  soon  afterwards  found  our>el\'(\s  on  bcjard.  where  we  were 
receiveil  once  more  as  those  innn  tlie  dead. 

"These  short  joui'ireys,  howe\'er  arduous,  in  whicli  caches 
were  establi>lied  for  future  use,  were  only  prelimiiuiry  skir- 
mishes t(_)  the  'grand  jouriK^y'  ])laiined  by  O'aptain  Kcnmedy 
with  much  forethought  and,  in  ])r('])aration  for  which  days 
h.ad  bef'ii  occu])ied  in  making  suitable  a])])arel.  tr;i]:)])inu-.  and 
sledges.  It  was  ex])ected  that  tlie  journc^y  would  take  at 
k^ast  tliree  months.  The  ])articular  dir(H'tion  (jur  route 
oudit  to  a.ssume.  was,  of  coin'<e,  a  matter  to  be  I'egulatcd 
very  mucli  by  the  nature  of  the  circumstances  that  might 
ai'i.-e  in  tlie  course  of  it.  On  one  point  only  we  wei'(>  decid('(l, 
\'iz.  I  hat  it  should  cmbi-ace  ( 'ajie  Wallcer  t(j  Avliich.  a<  the 
p(jiiit   (jf  dc])arture   of  Sir  J(jhn   Franklin   for  tlie   uriknown 


lol') 


THE   a  UK  AT    WHITE    X  OUT  IT 


rciiioiis  to  l!i;''\\".  ;rii(l  S.A\'..  had  \\v  decided  \i])C)n  lliis  coiu'se. 
and  not  j^one  u])  \\  ellinglon  ( "huiiuel,  inueh  interest  natui'ully 
attached. 

■"Tliere  were  fourteen  of  the  crew  disposal)]!^  in  the  slii]),"' 
continues  ('a])tain  Kennedy,  "of  whom  four  picked  men  were 
to  ,u<)  with.  Mr.  Ijellot  ;md  myself  to  ('a])e  \\'alf:ei'.  whil(>  t  h.e 
rest  w(a-e  to  accomi)any  us,  as  a  fatitiue  ])arty,  as  fai'  as  I'ury 
l^eacli,  wliich  was  to  foi'm  the  start  in,u-})oint  of  ti.e  journey. 
Parties  sent  out  on  (U!f(M'ent  occasions  durin.u'  tlie  last  two 
month-,  had  taken  in  a(h.'ance  six  cas(^s  of  ])emmican,  six 
mu>kets,  and  a  haii'  o'f  coals.  One  c;ise  of  ])(>mmican,  as 
already  mentioned,  had  been.  de]:)o>ited  in  January  a  few  miles 
noi'th  of  l-"ur}'  I'oint.  ( )ui'  ])ro\'isions.  clothinu',  and  i)eddint2:, 
drawn  u])on  two  Indi;in  s!ei;i,-hs  hy  oui'  (i\'e  dou's,  had,  of  cours(>, 
heen  red;!ced  to  whatever  was  sli'ictly  indis])ensa!)le.  l''i\'e 
iL'.'dion.s  of  spirits  of  wine  were  taken  as  a  suhstilute  for  fuel. 
\\'ith  i)roi)er  mana.u'ement  and  (M'onomy.  we  hojied  to  make 
this  la<t  u-  till  tlie  siii'inu'.  when,  hy  tlie  ])ian  we  ])i'oi)osed 
ado])!  ini':,  of  traveliin.u;  durina:  the  niu'ht  insteail  of  the  da\', 
\\'e  ln!-ii'd,  .should  a  n(-ce-<ily  ari-e  for  so  doinu'.  to  he  ahle 
to  di>p(  n>(>  Avith  the  use  of  i'u(>l  alloii'et  h(>r. 

"  <  >p,  t  he  moi'niti.u'  of  t  he  "201  h  of  hel  )i'uai'>'.  a  sc('n(>  of  ucneral  - 
hu>tl('  and  excitement  showed  that  all  our  ai'ranu'emenls  had 
keen  com])leted,  and  that  tht  loim-defei'i'ed  stiu't  for  the  .u'i'and 
joMrncy  wa-  ahout  to  take  place.  A  detachment  of  h\"e  mcn^ 
Ail',  i'ellot,  and  my>elf.  were  ;dl  that  could  le;i\'e  the  .-hip  ;it 
ihi-  linic:  till'  olt:ci'<  ap])olnicd  lo  in!!;  u-  lieinu:  -lill  uiidci- 
thi'  d:ii''(ii''-  attendance  foi-  -liuht  and  tcmpoi'arx'  incon- 
\'('iiii'!icc.  !'io-t -I  lites,  etc.  Th.e  whole  civw,  howe\'i'l'.  had 
III':!-' i-!( 'd  t()  -cr  u-  ;;-  fa!'  as  the  -oiit''  p,oiiit  iA  l';,1t>'  I'ay.  ;ill 
hill  oi;i'  dc::|-  iliphiii'ii.  who.  imahle  to  control  hi.-  manly 
(Miiitid!!  a!  pai'linu'  wiiii  .-o  m,'in>"  old  fi'ifiidr-.  ;ind  aho\'c  all 
Ml  hi'ii!2'  U!iaii;i'  to  ;icc()iiM)ai!\'  n-,  took  a  touchiiar  l.-U'cwcll 
of   us   a!    the    \-e.--rl;    '(iod    hj.'.--    \-()U,'    said    he.  u'i';i.-pin^'   m\' 


CAPTAIN  KKNXEDY  187 

hand  with  affectionate  warmth,  'I  cannot  accompany  you, 
and  I  cannot  let  ah  these  men  witness  nu  emotion  :  let  mo 
part  with  you  lier(\  and  may  doil  <i'rant  that  we  meet  in  hfo 
and  h.ealth.  after  the  long  and  hazardous  journey  \'ou  are 
about  to  undertake.'  Tliough.  this  veteran  hero  saw  much 
liardshii)  and  hazard  in  store  before  us.  h(>  would  have  seen 
noiu^  whatever  had  he  b(>en  allowed  to  accom])any  us,  but 
I  c(juld  not  for  a  moment  entertain  the  idea  of  employing 
him  on  a  journe\',  wIkmi  there  were  so  many  younger  men  all 
(■mul(ju-  to  be  engaged  on  it.  and  more  ])arti(ailarly  when 
1  i-  services  on  Ijoard  shij)  wc^e  so  indis]X'nsabl(^  :  and,  by 
his  kindly  consenting  to  nnuain,  I  was  relieved  of  all  anxiety 
as  res])ected  the  Prince  Albert. 

"Iveacliing  th(>  south  point  of  Batty  Bay,  with  our  friendly 
escort,  our  two  ])arties  once  more  se]:)arated  with  many  kindly 
and  touchinii-  farewells  and  th(Mi,  with  thrcH'  hearty  cheers, 
diverging  in  our  different  routes,  we  were  soon  lost  to  each 
other  in  the  mist  and  snow."' 

Th(>  fury  of  the  eriuinoctial  gales  greatly  im]~)eded  the  ad- 
\-ance  of  the  ])art}'.  frecjuently  detaining  them  for  .several 
dax's  a.t  a  time. 

Sledges,  moccasins,  and  snow-shoes  wei'e  greatly  dam- 
aged under  th(^  hard  conditions  of  travel,  and  it  was  found 
nec(-ssar\"  when  the  whole  party  had  a>scmbl('(l  jit  Fury  Tieach 
to  sf  lid  back  lo  the  shi])  for  additional  sui)])lies.  Tlic-y  also 
made  use  of  the  exc(-llent  stores  found  at  the  Fury  Beach 
wliicli  luid  been  left  there  thirty  years  before.  It  was  de- 
cided, after  careful  ca!(ailalion,  that  six  men  could  cai'ry 
])ro\'isions  for  the  propo>ed  journey  of  three  mouths'  dura- 
tion: that  fourteen  men  >li()uld  tra\'el  as  far  as  ]>i'entfoi'd 
I-)a\'.  at  \\'hich  ])oint  eight  would  return  to  tlie  shi]).  the  re- 
maining <ix  to  iiroce('d,  carrying  with  them  all  ])rovisions 
and  necessaries  for  the  remainder  of  the  trip. 

Tlie  total  dead  wciii'ht  of  thi>  t'l  luipnient,  including  slcdiics 


1:58 


THE   GREAT    WHITE  yORTIT 


and  tacklin.ii;,  ini,<i;Iit  Iicc^tiniatcvlat  about  two  tliou,<and  pounds. 
'■  The  w'lujlc  wa.s  lashed  down,""  Wi'itcvs  Kennedy,  "  to  the 
sniahe>t  ])(j<sihle  e(jni])as>  on  four  fhit-b(jttonied  Iiulian  sleighs, 
of  which  our  five  M-kiiuo  (hjgs.  assisted  by  two  men  to  each 
sleigh,  to(jk  two,  while  the  re-t  of  the  men  took  tlie  other  two." 

The  day  oi  their  st;ir!  ])i'0\'ed  nhld  and  pleasant,  and  at 
first  the  travelling  was  gocxl,  the  ice  lacing  sufficiently  smooth 
to  make  (>asy  and  ]'a])id  ])r(jgress.  But  such  good  foilune 
did  not  remain  with  them  long,  and  the  ine\'itable  gales  made 
travelling  most  difficult  and  painful.  The  usual  snovv"  huts 
were  erected  at  night,  u.nder  which  they  took  sudi  comfort  as 
their  short  hours  of  rest  afforded  them.  Frost-bites  caused 
them  mucii  suffei'ing,  and  to  pi'otect  their  fac(\s  they  resorted 
to  curious  expedients. 

'Tor  the  eyes,""  writes  Kennedy,  "we  liad  gou'gies  of 
glass,  of  wir(>-gauze.  of  cra])e,  or  (.)f  ])lain  vrood  with  a  slit 
in  the  centre,  in  the  manner  of  J-^-kinios.  P'or  the  face, 
som(^  had  cloth-ma^k-^,  with  neat  little  ci'e\'ices  f(,r  the  m<julh, 
n(jse,  and  eye-  ;  (Ahei's  were  jmiifled,  u])  in  the  ordiiiai'y 
chin-cloth,  and,  fcjr  that  juo.-t  troublesome  of  the  facial 
members,  the  no<(\  a  >trong  part\',  wilh  our  always  original 
carpenter  a1  their  hea<l,  had  gutla-])ercha  no>es,  lined  with 
d('lie;.ie  -:{)ft  flaimej."'  Tlioiigli  adnhraife  in  theory,  ihese 
conl  !'i\'ances  ])ro\'ed  failures  in  ])ractice,  and  were  all  discai'ded 
exce])t    trie  cliin-cji d  iis  and  gugu'h's. 

On  the  (1th  of  April  {hey  reache(l  Ih'cntford  Bay,  and  the 
fatigue  i)ar;\'  begun  their  retrograde  journey  to  the  .-hi]).  At 
this  point  Kennedx'  disc(i\-ered  a  ,-ti'ait  running  westward, 
separating  Xoi'th  Snfuersi-t  fi'om  Pjoothia  I-Vlix.  Tlii-  he 
nanii-d  Bellot  Slr;iit,  iti  lionoui'  of  tlie  bj'ax'e  yoanu'  ohiecr 
who  li;)d  -ecuri'd  the  alfect  ioiiat  e  reii'ai'd  of  conuiiandcr  and 
crew,  l-'i'oni  ic  re  the  ]);irty  crossed  X'ietoria  Sti'ait  to  Prince 
of  Whd"-  banih  naming  ni;ui\'  of  the  ])i'omin(ait  headlands, 
h;t\'.~.   and  i,-l;Uid>. 


CAPTAIN   KENNEDY  139 

On  April  17  the  thorinometor  stood  at  plus  22,  "  a  tcm- 
])eratur(%"  writers  KcuiuHly,  "whicli,  to  our  sensations,  was 
al)solut(43'^  oppressive.  One  of  our  dogs,  through  over-exer- 
tion, fainted  in  his  traces,  and  lay  gasping  for  Ijreath  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  ;  but  aft(n'  recovering,  went  on  as  merrily 
as  ever.  These  faithful  creatur(>s  wc^re  perfect  treasures  to 
us  throughout  tli(^^  journey.  They  were  all  suffering,  like 
ourselves,  from  snow-blindness,  but  did  not  in  the  least 
relax  their  exertions  on  this  account.  The  Eskimo's  dog  is, 
in  fact,  tlu^  camel  of  these  northern  (U^serts  ;  the  faithful 
attendant  of  man,  and  the  sharer  of  his  labors  and  priva- 
tions." 

The  flat  country  over  which  th(\v  werc^  travelling,  and  the 
close  proximity  of  the  J\Iagnetic  Pole,  which  rc^ndered  their 
compass  of  little  use,  made  it  particularh^  difficult  to  keep  a 
westerly  coui'se.  Tt  was  hoped  that  this  direction  would  k^ad 
to  a  sea  which  would  conduct  them  northward  to  Capo 
Walker.  From  this  poin.t  thc^y  hoped  to  asccn'tain  if  there 
was  any  westward  channel  or  sti-ait  tlu'ough  which  Sir  John 
Franklin  might  have  ])(MK-trate(l.  Aft(>r  marching  for  thir- 
teen days,  and  r(\aching  the  hundi'CMlth  d(\gre(^  of  west  longi- 
tude, without  coming  to  a  sea,  KenncMly  ckx'ided  to  turn  north- 
ward to  (.\u)e  ^^'alker. 

"Being  now  satisfied,"  h(^  writ(^s,  ''that  Sir  James  Ross 
had,  in  liis  land  jourricy  along  the  westcn-n  shore  of  Xorth 
S()!n(^rs(^t,  in  1819,  mistakcMi  th(^  very  low  level  land  over 
which  w(^  liad  Ixhmi  travelling  for  a  w(\stern  s(^a,  I  f(Jt  no 
longer  justifiiMl  in  continuing  a  west(M'n  cours(\  A\'hatever 
passag(^  mign.L  c^xist  to  tlu^  souili-west  of  ('a])(>  A\'alker,  T  felt 
assur(Hl  must  now  \)v  (su  oiu'  north.  T  (k'teriuined  therefoi'e, 
from  this  time  foi'ward,  to  dirc^ct  ouj-  coursf^  northward,  until 
we  should  fall  u])on  sonu^  chann(4  which  we  knew  must  exist 
not  far  from  us,  in  this  direction,  by  which  Franklin  might 
haA'c  })assed  to  the  sou^thwest." 


140 


THE   a  in:  AT    WHITE   yO  UTJI 


The  cliaiiut'l  foi'  which  the}'  were  in  scai'ch  could  not  be 
found.  l-)()i>tci'(ju>  uah's  -till  pui'sucd  thcni,  und  the  men 
hcuan  t(j  show  the  clVccts  of  exhaustion  and  exjjosui'c  in  the 
form  of  the  drcailcd  scurv\'.  They,  t heref(_)i'e.  turned  east- 
ward a,<iain  and,  I'eachin.Li,'  ('a])e  Ijurne}'.  they  made  next  for 
('a.i)e  Walker,  which  fii'>t  loomed  in  the  di-tance  the  4th  of 
^Iny.  Idicir  disrqjpointment  was  gi'eat  at  iindina:  no  trace  of 
rranklin's  ex])editioii. 

■■\\'earie(l  and  dis])irite(l  l)eyond  deseri])tion."'  writes 
('ai)tain  Kcmiedy.  •"at  the  fruitless  result  of  our  lon,a;  and 
anxious  laboui's,  we  retiu'ned  to  otir  encam])ment.  <iuided 
thi'ou.uh  a  hca\'\'  snow-storm  by  the  re])ort  (jf  ^'un^-.  which  I 
had  directed  to  be  fired  every  fifteen  minutes,  to  make  ])re])- 
aratinn  for  our  return  homeward,  ddiis  could  be  elfected 
eitiiei-  by  ])u>hin.u'  directly  for  I^atty  Ba\'.  aero--  \orth  Somer- 
set, a  di.-tance  in  a  straiu'ht  line  of  n.ot  more  than  ,-ix  days" 
joui'uey,  or  by  following'  the  coa-t  round  to  \\dialer  Point, 
and  thence  to  the  -hil)."  ddic  lattei-  I'oute  was  cho-en.  tlioUi^h 
the  di>tance  \\-as  nearly  double  tliat  of  the  other,  and  after 
an  ab-ence  of  ninet  \'->e\-en  days  and  eoN'eriuLi,'  aliout  ele\"en 
hundred  mile<.  they  at  last  reached  the  shi])  May  '-'A).  \ 
I'emai-kaMe  joui'iiex'  "for  >ix  men  and  fi\'e  doji:-,  (li'a.u'Kinu'  for 
mo-t  of  the  wa\'  t  Wo  thousand  ])ounib"  wei^bt .  and  -le('])in_u; 
in  >nowhou>e-.  eiicampinii  on  frozen  seas,  and  rarely  ha\"in,i!; 
a  fire  when  l  hey  halted  to  recruit ." 

Preparabion-  ioi-  the  I'etui'n  to  ]-Jiu'land  were  now  com- 
menced, .buiie  and  July  i)a--ed  williout  ttie  \"e--e!  bccominu' 
fi'ce  tVoni  the  ice,  biM  by  the  (it  h  of  Auiiu-t,  after  sawiuu,'  and 
bl;i-tini:\  the  little  cfafl  wa-  liiierated.  At  hieechcy  k-laiid. 
which  {  'aptain  Kennedy  reachdl  the  bMli.  he  found  the  di-pot 
.-hip  Vnrth  Sliii\  now-  attached  to  .'^ir  K.  lielcher'.-  expedition, 
eii'^a^cil  ill  -;iwiii'j,-  inio  winter  (|U;u'lcr<.  P!-oc('cdiiiLi'  in  her 
co;u'-c.  t  he  /'/■//, r-  .1  //"  rl  reached  Pnji'laud.  after  an  une\'eiit  ful 
\'o\'aLi,e.  (  )ctiii  icr  7.    iN.l:;. 


CHAPTER   IX 

Srarcli  for  Sir  John  Franklin  continued:  Sir  Edward  Belcher's 
s(iua(h'on.  —  Inii'lefichL  —  Race's  journey.  —  Discovery  of  Xorlli- 
we:st  ra.<.<aKe  by  Captain  Al'Clure.  — lJc>ath  of  Bellot. 

IxTKKEST  in  th(»  mysterious  fate  of  Sir  John  FrankUn  was 
in  no  wi<e  U'sscmkmI  l)y  the  unexpected  return  to  Eni^Uuid  of 
the  searchinjj;  s(]Ua(h'on  in  1S51.  Dr.  Rae"s  huid  journey  of 
over  ei.u'ht  hun(h'(Hl  miles,  including;  a  tliorouji'li  examination 
of  tlu'  east  and  north  coast  of  N'ictoria  Land,  had  tlu'own 
no  new  light  on  the  tragic  situation.  The  American  coast 
had  now  heini  diligcMitly  examined  from  the  entrance  of  J^eh- 
ring  Strait  to  the  head  of  Hudson  ]3ay,  and  it  was  generally 
liclicved  that  Fratiklin  had  ncvca-  i'(>ached  so  Ioav  a  latittide. 

On  April  28,  1S.52,  a  thorotighly  e(pii])])ed  s(iuadron  of 
five  vess(ds  — -  the  Asy.isUincc.  the  Jicsolute,  and  the  XortI/  Star, 
and  two  strvimcr^,  th(>  Pioneer  and  Intrepic]  —  sailed  from 
l-jiglaml  undor  tlu^  command  of  Sir  h^dward  P)elcher.  The 
Assistdiice  and  Pioneer  wei'e  to  sail  u])  WellingtcMi  Channel. 
The  Resohifi'  and  Intrepid,  tinder  command  of  Ca])tain  Kellett, 
were  to  proceed  to  MeKdlle  Inland,  tliere  to  de])osit  i^i'ovisions 
for  the  use  of  Captain  Colhuson  ;uid  ( 'ommander  M'(dtu'(\ 
sliould  they  succeed  in  making  tlte  ])assage  from  I^ehring 
Strait,  for  Vv-'nieh.  as  we  liave  scnai,  they  had  s(>t  sail  in.  Janu- 
ary, FS.-jO.  'VlwSortii  Star  \vd>  to  remain  at  Reeehey  Island 
as  a  depot  store  slii]). 

]^y  the  ()ih  of  Jul>'  the  sciuadron  was  in  I^afhn  Ray, 
aceompanifMl  hy  a  fleet  of  whaler-^.  The  ice  condiiiions  ])roved 
exa<i)eratinu'  :  th.e  Asslsfirnee.  Pinneer.  and  Ri  solute  were  l)e>et 
and  detaineil   foi-  a  time,  wliile  tlie  I'est   of  th.e  fleet,   accom- 

141 


142 


TiiK  GiiKAT  WHITE  yoimi 


*x 


>«**sf^     ^ 


])aiii('(l  hy  the  wli;ilc!'s,  stn^tcliod  iu  a  loni;-  train  of  some  three 

(|iiar(('i's  of  a  iiiilc   in  It'iiiith  and  slowlx'  jjushcd   their  way 

throut!,h  a  nai'row  lane  of  water. 

The  Aniei'iean  whaler,  MvLclUin,  had  the  lead;  tlu>  Xorth 

^Star  of  the   l-]ii<2,'lish  sciuadron  foUowcxl  the   MvLvUaii.     Tlie 
_    -  weatlier    coiuUtions 

were  most  fa\-our- 
able  ;  no  anxic  iy 
was  f(dl  for  th(^ 
.safet3'of  the  V(,'ssels, 
ill  spile  of  the  fact 
that  the  lane  of 
water  L!;radnally 
(dosed  and  })i'e- 
veiited  the  ships 
fi'om  advanein^s;'  or 
ret  !'eatin,<;'nnt!l, inly 
7,  when  the  report 
was  made'   that    the 

til  "r^r    ^^V^  •         ,    ■       n       • 

-  r-h»J.^.  :        "-     ^-  ni])i)ed    m    the    ice 

and  her  ei'cw  niak- 

iiiji;  ready   lo  ;il);m- 

doii     liei'.      ('ai'i)eii- 

t(M's,    niider    orders 

of  Sir   l-idward  V>el- 

chei',  put    a  U'W  ch-iivu'es  of  powder  in   th.e   ice,  to  relieve  the 

d'hr-  iii'xt  d;i\',  howev(M\  ihe  Mcfjll'iii  was  iiii)iKMl  harder 
tliiiii  e\('i-  with  die  water  pouriiia.-  iiiio  her  in  a  s!ead\'  sti'(\'iin. 
\\  hih'  '  h'i'':  ;;!j,'  liiiinMiiaii'eah'ie.  fii'-i  into  one  sliip  and  then 
into  ;inoth.er.  -lie  W'i<  !i;);ii-d''d  hy  Ivi'di'^li  wli;il(Mnen  who 
l)roi'(i'(  |c(|  to  r;in<:ielv  ;iiid  phni'ler  \\it.  until,  at  the  ("aptnin's 
]'((|ni'-t.    Sir    liilwai'd    iu'lchcr     placed    sentries   on    hoai'd    io 


A  I    M     I     \1       ^1  I     li    \    \  1      )      1     I    I   (  I 


SIR   EDWARD   belcher's   SQUADRON  143 

prevent  further  loot,  and  working  parties  proceeded  to  take 
in\'entory  of  her  stores,  and  remove  them  to  a  safe  cUstance. 
In  a  day  or  two  tlic  McLcllan  liad  sunk  to  the  Avater's  edge, 
and  for  the  safety  of  the  rest  of  the  fleet,  a  charge  or  two  of 
powdc^r  put  her  out  of  the  way. 

The  squadron  reached  its  headquarters  at  Beechey  Island, 
August  10.  \\'(^llington  Cliamud  and  Barrow  Strait  were 
found  free  from  ic(\,  and  on  the  14th,  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  with 
tlie  Pioneer  and  A,'<si-stance,  ])roceedetl  u])  the  Chanmd.  The 
next  day  Captain  Kellett,  with  the  Resolute  und  I ntrei)id,  sailed 
in  open  water  for  ]\I(4ville  Island. 

While  Sir  Edward  Belchcu-'s  s(]uadron  was  making  its  ardu- 
ous passage  to  Beechey  Island,  Lady  Franklin  had  refitted 
tl)(^  screw-steamt^r  Isabel  and  ])lac(Hl  it  luider  Commander  In- 
glefield,  R.  X.,  with  instructions  to  inv(^stigate  the  rumour 
hrouglit  home  l)y  Sir  John  Ross  to  the  effect  that  Franklin 
and  his  crew  liad  been  miu'dered  by  natives  at  Wolstenholnie 
Sound. 

S(^tting  sail  from  England,  July  6,  1852,  the  little  Iseibel 
ma(l(^  for  the  noitliern  shores  of  Baffin  Bay,  reacluMJ  a  higher 
latitude^  u])  Wliale  Soiuid  than  any  ]irevious  vessel,  and  later 
pushed  through  Smith  Sound  as  far  as  latitude  78°  28'  21" 
X.,  Avithout  discovering  any  o]~)]^osing  land.  Captain 
Inglefield  discovered  tliat  Smith  Sound,  generally  supposed  to 
l)e  narrow,  was  at  knist  thirty-six  n.iiles  across,  expanding  con- 
sid(M'ably  to  tlie  nortliward.  Tlie  shore  s(Haned  comi)aratiA'ely 
fro(>  from  snow,  and  tlie  rocks  ai^i^ieari^l  of  tlunr  luitural  colour. 

Ice  was  mt^t  in  consideralde  f|uantiti(^s,  and,  though  Captain 
I'i'ilefield  was  amlsitious  to  sti^am  through,  a  foi'tunate  gale 
isrosc  which  blc-w  with  sucli  violence  tliat  the  Isnhrl  was  forced 
back,  thus  saving  her  in  all  prol)ability  from  a  dreary  winter 
in  tiie  ic(\ 

By  th(^  7th  of  September,  the  Isabel  sighted  the  North  Star 
at  Beeche\'  Island. 


144  THE  GREAT    WIHTE  yoRTII 

"\\'hon  wo  W(M'{'  near  onouiili  to  s(H'  from  our  crow's-iK^st 
tlie  must  heads  of  the  Xorth  Slar,  I  had  (jrdcred  one  of  the 
twelve  pounders  t(^  he  tired  and  the  ])eo})le  who  were  workinji; 
on  shore  were  u,reatly  ])uzzle(l  at  hearing  sueh  a  sound,  as 
tiie\"  believed  that  nothin*),'  human  but  their  own  })arty  e(juld 
be  within  hundreds  of  miles  of  them." 

('ai)tain  Injilefield  soon  "waited  upon"  ('a])tain  PuUen, 
and  t!ie  letters  for  ^^ir  Edward  Belcher's  s(iuadron  brou.aht 
out  b\-  x\\o  Isabel  were  ])laced  upon  the  Xorlh  Strir.  A  few 
lunirs  later  the  IsdljcJ  ])ut  off  to  sea,  earryinii  lett(M-s  from 
ofheers  and  crew  of  tlie  Xuiih  Star  to  relatives  and  friends  in 
En<i;land. 

liy  the  12th  the  Isabel  stood  off  ^Nlount  Po<se>>ion.  by  the 
14th  Cajx'  ]>owen,  and  here  ("a])tain  Ingleheld  landed  to 
look  for  traces  and  erect  a  cairn  :  nothinu;  was  di>co\-(>red  but 
the  bold  footi)rint  of  a  huti'e  bear  and  the  tiny  tracks  of  an 
Arctic  fox.  Idle  2;]d  found  them  in  na\'is  Strait.  Hei'e  a 
terrific  u'ale  was  encoimtered.  wh.ich  lasted  four  da\'s  and 
"accom])anied,"'  wi'ites  ( 'a])1ain  In.ulefield,  "with  the  heaviest 
sea  I  had  ever  seen,  (>ven  otf  ("a])e  Horn.   .   .   ."" 

As  soon  as  the  stoi-m  abated,  they  ))Ut  for  the  nearest  ]5ort 
to  undergo  necessary  r(>])airs.  and  by  ()ct()ber  2  ihey  made  a 
setllenient  off  llunde  Elands,  a  little  south  of  W'halefish. 
Isl;ind<.  The  ,u'o\'ernor  came  on  board  to  see  what  was 
wanted,  and,  th(>  n(>xt  day  beinu'  Sunday,  the  ci'cw  wei'<'  _<;i\-en 
shore  lea\-(',  and  a  uvnei'al  da\"  of  re>t   \\'as  enjoyed. 

( )n  th''  ')\}\.  he  writer,  "I  r(>ceive(l  ;i  in(-s;me  froin  the  u'ov- 
ernor,  th.at  it  \va<  the  Kinu'  of  Demn.ark's  biilhday,  the  Es- 
kimo- would  a-^seiuble  at  his  house,  and  hax'e  a  dance,  and 
the  plca>ui'e  of  my  conii)an>'  was  >olicited  loi'  the  occ;i>!on  ; 
;!ccoi'dim:l\'  ;it  -i\  o'clociv  I  I'cpail'ed  to  the  ^vooden  Jj.alace  of 
hi-  i'Acellciicy.  ;ind  then'  f(tund.  craiinncd  into  ;i  smallish 
chamber,  a<  many  I'.-kimo-  a-  could  con\'enient  !y  stand. 

"I    had    prepared    my.-elf    with    certaiii    botlh's    by    which 


IXGLEFIEI.l)  145 

pTinch  could  h^  quickly  made  ;  and  several  officers  and  crew 
juiiiin<2;  the  part}',  i)y  their  assistance,  each  of  the  Eskimo 
ladi(.>s  was  first  supplied  with  a  glass  full  of  the  beverage, 
and  afterward  the  gentlemen,  when  I  made  them  understand 
tluit  th(>y  were  to  give  three  cheers  for  the  King  of  Denmark, 
which  was  done  with  a  vigour  and  goodheartedness,  that 
made  tlie  wooden  walls  echo  again. 

''I  had  })re]~)ared  another  treat  for  them,  which  I  am  quite 
sure  was  to  many  the  most  agreeable  of  the  two.  ]\Iy  cox- 
swain came  in  to  tell  u\v  when  all  was  ready,  and  then  I  begged 
the  governor  would  tell  the  party  to  go  outside  where  I  had 
sometliing  to  show  them. 

'■^^dlen  all  were  assembled,  the  booming  of  one  of  our  guns, 
which  by  signal  was  firc^l  from  the  vessel,  not  a  little  alarmed 
some  of  the  most  timid,  and  their  fear  was  not  much  allayed, 
when,  from  midei'  their  very  noses,  a  shower  of  rockets  flew 
into  mid-air,  with  a  whirl  that  startled  some  of  the  more 
ancient  sages  amongst  tliem,  though  when  no  damage  was 
found  to  accrue^  to  any  of  the  party,  the  shouts  of  joy  over- 
powered tlu^  noise  of  the  rockets.  The  l)lue  lights  and  white 
lights,  whicli  were  !)m'nt  to  enliven  the  performance,  were 
objects  of  great  curiosity,  and  I  could  see  some  enf^uiring  facets, 
eagerly  watching  our  movements,  as  the  port-fires  were 
I^UuhmI  -To   ignite   them." 

■"Dancing  was  afterwards  c(jmmence(l,"'  continues  Captain 
Inu'letield,  ■"and  feeling  that  it  was  my  duty  to  lead  off  with 
the  g()V('rnor"s  wife,  who  was  an  Kskinio,  T  b(>gge(l  the  hon- 
oui'  of  her  hand,  for  a  dance,  in  the  b(>st  Eslcimo  of  which  I 
was  ma<t(>r.  and  to  the  scra]iing  of  a  disabled  fiddle  bound 
round  with  twine  and,  s]^lints,  I  launched  into  the  mysteries 
of  an  E>kinio  ciuadi'ille.  wliich.  but  for  the  strenuous  exer- 
tions of  my  partnta-,  to  ke(>])  me  right.  T  should  certainly  have 
set  into  utter  confusion. 

"It  was  composed  of  a  cJuiinp  tics  fJrnncs  and  a  r(H^I.  com- 


14G 


■niK    CRKAT    WHITE    XOHTII 


])\('X  to  a  wondci'i'ul  (l('<i,r('(\  uiid  cxhuustiiiR'  lo  a  fi'lulitful  ox- 
tciit  ;  uiid  yet  it  a])|)far'('(l  lo  !;(>  the  (l(-lci'iiiiiialioii  of  the  wiujlc 
j)art\'  1()  coiitiinic  at  this  one  fi^^urc  till  lived  nature  >uiik. 

■' l'iiacci!>toiii('(l  To  this  kind  of  \-i(jlciit  cxcrci-c,  1  wa-  ,-oon 
knocked  u]),  and  tried,  ih(ni,<ih  unsuccessfully,  to  make  my 
e-c;i])e  :  i)ul  at  la>t  1  had  the  ji,'ratificati(jn  of  obser\"in,u'  ;m 
elderly  lady  ojjpor-ite  1  K-uinnin^ii'  to  falter,  and  out  (jf  compli- 
ment \u  her  I  |)i'e>ume  this  d;uice  was  tei'ininated. 

■■'Idie  l;!>kinio>  .-eem  to  thiidv  it  is  im])os>ikle  to  he  too 
Warm,  >o  the  doors  and  wind.ows  were  tightly  clo-efl.  and 
(■(■Hain  lam])<  and  tallow  candle>  (with  which  I  laul  >ui)})lie(l 
hi-  I'.xci-licncy    >()(>n  t)rou,i:ht  t  he  tem])ei-ature  up  t(j  khjod  heat. 

■'Aftei'  ri'-tin^-  from  my  labour,  1  determined  to  try  their 
Waltz,  which  I  Jound  wa<  not  \'ery  milike  oui's,  hein.u'  pei'- 
fornied  xtmewhat  in  the  same  manner,  and  the  fair  ladies 
with  whom  1  now  alternat('ly  fi.uured  instruct  in-z  me  in  the 
my-tei-i(--  of  the  measure.  Some  of  !iiy  .-ailoi's  ha\'in,L!'  oh- 
taiiiiMl  permi>.-ion  to  atti  nd  the  hall,  they  were  now  -olicited 
to  ui\-e  a  -j)ecim<-n  of  tla-ir  -kill,  and  accoivlinuly  a  -ailor's 
hoi'Mpipe  and  re('h  with  the  u-ual  heel  and  to('  accom])aninient, 
met  with  i:reat  a])])!au-e.  I  had  had  suhicif'Ut  fun  by  nine 
o'i'lock.  Init  thf'  pai'ty  did  not  bj-eak  u])  till  ;ifter  twelvt-; 
bel'iifc  I  wint  away.  hoWe\'ei',  at  Uiy  si)ecial  l'e(jU''-t.  -ome 
r^-kimo  mi'lod;i'<  wei-e  -un'i  by  the  party,  and  after\\'ards  a 
haimh  national  h\-mn  by  the  u-overnor.  ^\  hen  the  olhcers 
•and  iiM-ii  wi-vf  ri't  lU'iiiii'i  in  their  boat  to  the  ship  they  wri'c 
-' -iiiahlcd  !,\-  ilii-  l;i(hc-  of  the  ])ai't\'.  who  joininii'  hand-in- 
!.:.i:d  \vailwd  alonL^  the  rock.-  toward-  the  ,-hip.  ,-iii'iitn.':  a 
!  ;,il!'i\-e  ai:',  which  liiiLLhl  W''ll  ha\'e  b(>en  takfli  fol'  their 
e\-i!iim:-  !;."'iiii.  And  -uch  it  may  ha\'i'  bci'ii,  tor  the-i'  poor 
i"''C'!i'.  -'■ii:i-i'i\ili/(d  and  iii-ti'ucted  a-  they  ha\'e  ln'cn  by 
It.'-  haiii-.  a:v  fiih  o['  t'cr\-onr  and  zeal  foi'  thrir  ivhLiion, 
ti.i'  f  ,u' h'vaii,  aicl  -how  more  real  moral  ])i'incipie  than  any 
nation   I  ever  vi.-itfMl.'' 


INGLEFTELB 


147 


By  tlio  7th  of  OctolxM-  the  Isabel  was  ready  for  sea,  bat 
encountered  tcn-rilie  i^ales.  Upon  the  advice  of  the  ice- 
ma.stei's,  Ca})tain  In,u;lefield  determined  to  retmii  to  Eni;land 
in  si)ite  of  a  stron.a;  desire  to  winter  and  coin])let(^  the  scvirch 
of  the  west  coast  of  Baffin  Bay  1)}'  sledge  journeys  in  tlie 
s])rini;' a.nd  the  survey  of  Davis  iStrait  from  Cape  A\'aisina;ham 
soutli,  as  fai"  as  Xewfoundhmd.  However,  a  continuance  of 
l)a(l  ^\■(nltller  mad(>  sncli  a  course  impractical )1(%  and  l)y 
\ov(Mnl)er  4  th(>  Isabel  ancliored  at  Stronm(>ss  ;  l)y  tlie  lOtli 
of  Xovemher  she  made  Peterheatl  hy  way  of  Pentland  Firtli. 

"L^esid(\'^   pen-  


/ 


i  V- 


\\ 


53*© 


(>tratint!;one  hini- 
(h'tnl  a!id  foi'ty 
miles  further 
than  ]irevious 
n;',vi,<;'at()rs,  and 
findinji;  an  o])en 
>i'a  st  r(>t(diin.<^ 
n  ()  r  t  h  w  a  r  d  s  , 
froiii  l^);if fill's 
I'.ay,  to  at  l(>;i>t 
tiit-  latitude  of 
SO  ",  ( "  a  ])  t  a  i  n 
Inuleficld  discov- 
ered   a    sti'ait    in 

-    I    o 


a  I)  o  ti  t     II 

whicli  lie  named 

Al  u  r  (•  li  i  s  o  n 

Strait,  ;ind  \'\'lii('h 

he    sii])i)osed    to 

foi'm  tiic    nortl;- 

(MMi  boundary  to  r.recnhuid."'    ITis  car(4ul  survey  of  th(^  (\istern 

sidi'  of  l>afhn  f';;y,  fi'oin  ( ";ii'c\'  Islands  to  ( 'npe  AlcxMiidci-.  and 

his    ap])roach    to    .Jones    Sound,    all   contfihuted    intci-cstinir 


By  prnnis^o'fin  nf  Tin   TUin-inilnl  [.(iikJou  Xiirs. 
Admmjm.   Sn;    l-;in\-Aiii)   1  \"<,i,l-:7'i  i:i.i>.    Ii'.  X. 


148 


THE   (;l!KAT    WHITE    Xninil 


(lata  to  .uco^i'a])! ileal  kiiowlcdji-c,  hut  tli(ju<:li  the  iiati\-('S 
with  w!:(iin  he  met  were  carefully  interro^uated,  no  li,ulit  was 
thrown  on  t!ie  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  or  hi-  men,  and 
the  utier  fal>il\'  of  the  ,-tory  t(;ld  hy  Sir  John  liO"'>  iiHer- 
])reter  wa>  -al  i.-faetoril\'  estahli>hed. 

r^arly  in  tlie  year  \>^')-).  three  ex])editions  were  lilted  oul, 
to  a--i.-l  Sii'  J'idwai'd  Pjclcher"-  >f|Uadi'on  ah'eady  in  the  field, 
anil  to  eontinue  the  -(-ai'ch  for  Sir  John  I'Vaiiklin. 

ddic  liiiUh  si,iil:< .  under  ( "oinniandd-  Jdi  illopc.  and  llie 
Isdhil  —  auain  i'efitte(l  l)y  Lady  l-'ranklin,  and  ])Ut  in  com- 
inand  of  Mi'.  Kenned\' —  -  set  out  with  in>truetion>  to,-;di  lor 
P^ehrinu' St  rait  and  e;u-i'y  -Uj)])lic>  to  ('aptains  ( 'oliin-on  and. 
.M'(Ture.  1  )r.  liae  -ct  oul  a.uain  for  the  further  cxaniinal  ion 
of  the  eiia-t  of  Doolhia.  and  ('a])tain  I  null  held  wa-  -<'nl  to 
I  )arro^\' Strait  in  eonmiand  of  the  I'lm  n'l.r  and  L'l'ln  /■'/'n//l:li -,^  ' 
for  th('  ]»ur])o-e  of  rei'iiforeinii'  Sii'  jjlward  Ijelchcf. 

In  Aniei'ica  the  -cconil  <  U'llUK-ll  exiXMiiiion  w;i-  fitted  out 
ali()Ut  t!ic  -anie  lime  foi'  the  ])ur])o-c  oi'  exphirinu-  the  ])a-.-ai!.<  s 
lcadin,Lf  out  oi'  l-5afhii  ]>ay  into  tlie  unkuiown  ocean-  arouiid 
the  Pole,  and  wa-  placed  undei'  1  he  eouiman;!  ot'  1  )r.  V..  \\. 
Kane.  V.  >.  X..  who  had  -ailed  under  kieuteiiant  1  )e  IIa\'(ii 
in  t  lie  lir-t   (  ii'innell  expeilit  ion. 

Ill  the  autuinii  of  Is."):!,  the  dee])  intere-t  of  the  h'u'ili-h 
nation  \\"a-  arou-ed  1  ly  the  return  ol'  <  'aptaiii   iiiLileni'ld  of  ihe 

I'hnn'.r  wilji  I'e-pat  i-hi-  from  the  Al'iiie  reOiioil-.  eont  aj  1  lil  lli' 
ih''  new-  that  the  Norihwe-I  i'a--aLi,c  had  al  leii'Uh  keen 
-Ueee--!'i;ny  a ecoin] )h-tie(  1  ky  ('aptaiu  M'^'luO'  of  the  ///- 
i-i  si i,',iili,i'.  w'iio  hail  pa--i'il  throuuh  I'x'hriu'j,  Si  I'aii  and  -aileil 
\\'ii!]!ii  a  fi'W  mile-  ot'  die  iiio-t  \\-e-irrly  d i-eo \-i  rii ■-  madi'  irom 
kill-  ea-O'i'ii  -idi-  of  Aliieriea.  at  whii-h  point  hi'  ha'!  keoii  iro/eii 
ui  I  fi  )!■  liii  !!■<■  ;  h.all  '  Wi  I  year-. 

I'ai'iii-  from  ihe  /,,,o-.7m;<//-/'  l.ad  walked  over  llie  fi'o/en 
ocan  :  anij  1  .icut  ona  ul  <  iv--\',-i||.  ij  le  ki  ^a  nu  oi'  t  hr  do-pa' ei,i-- 
fi-oin  (   aplain   .M'(  'luro.  had  -ailid  to  hiii-la  lid.  k\-  tin    Atlantic 


('.1P7'.17.V    m'clure  149 

()c(>;in,  havin.y;  llius  ]);iss(h1  through  the  far-famed,  niiicli- 
.s()U<i;lit-afl(M',   and,  at   l('nji;lh,  discovered  Xorthwest  Passage. 

It  will  be  reinenibered  that  ('a])tains  CoUin.son  and  M'Clure 
sailed  for  l)elirin_u;  Strait  in  1850,  throu<i;h  which,  in  coni- 
])any  with  the  Piiivcr  and  Ilcrdld,  they  endeavoured  to  ])ass. 

Th(^  J Nr('st!(/(ii()i\  ('a])tain  M'Clurc^,  was  last  seen  on  August 
4,  ISoO,  bearing  gallantly  into  the  heuii  of  the  "Polar  Puck." 

Captain  ('ollinson,  in  tlu^  Enterprise,  had  concluded  to  winter 
at  Hongkong,  and  not  until  Alay,  ISol,  did  he  return  to 
])(»hring  Strait,  which  lie  succiMMled  in  entering.  In  tlu; 
nuvuitinie,  the  Ihrahf  had  returned  to  luigiand,  while  the 
Plover  I'lMuained  some  tinic^  at  I'ort  Clarence  as  a  reserve  for 
the  \-essels  to  fall  back  u])on. 

On  ])arting  coinjiany  with  \ho  Herald  in  P)ehi'ing  Strait  in 
July,  i(S,l(),  Cai^tain  AkClure  stood  north-northwest  with  a 
fresh  b!-(H>z(\  For  seviM'al  days  the  I nvestigidor  struggled 
witli  the  \vv  pack,  now  boring  thi'ough  the  masses,  or  winding 
among  the  lanes  of  o])(>n  watei'.  By  the  7th  of  August  they 
had  rounded  Point  Barrow,  at  which  ])oint  clear  water  was  sesMi 
from  the  '"  crow's  nest." 

■'l'h(>  wind."  wi'ites  APC 'lure,  "almost  imuK^liately  f;iiling, 
the  l)oats  wei'e  a.ll  mann(^l,  and  towing  commenccMl  amid  songs 
and  clicei-s,  which,  continued  with  unabate<l  good  humom' 
foi'  six  ho'urs.  wlien  this  laborirnis  woi'k  was  brought  to  a  suc- 
(•(^ssful  t(M'mination.  Being  in  ])('i'f(M'tl>'  clear  water  in  Smith's 
Bay.  a  light  aii'  sp;ringing  u}),  we  worked  to  the  eastward. 
At  two  A.M.  of  tlK>  Sth,  being  olf  Point  Di'ew,  sent  .Mr.  (  'ourt 
(second  mate)  on  shor(>  to  evevX  a  cairn,  and  l)ury  a  notic(M)f 
our  having  ])asse{l.  r])on  landing,  we  \\\^ve  u\e\  l)y  thi'ee 
n:i{i\-('^.  who  at  tirst  w(>r(>  very  timid  :  but  u])on  exchanging 
signs  of  fi'iend^hi]),  which  consist(Ml  of  raising  the  ai'ms  thr(M^ 
time>  ov(M'  th(>  h(>a(h  the>'  a])pi'oached  th(^  bo;it,  and  after  the 
])leasaiit  sa.hitation  of  I'ubbup.g  nos(>s,  Ix'came  \'ery  communi- 
cativ(\   when,  ]>>-  the  as>istance  of  our  \'aluable  int('r])i'eter> 


ir>n 


THE   GUI:AT    white  SOL'TH 


Mr.  ?\rKTtscliiii^u'.  we  i'ouiul  the  ti'ihc  coii-i-tcil  of  leu  tents 
(this  liciiiii'  tiic  (Mily  a])pl't)acli  lo  their  jiiiiiii.ic;'.-  he  coiild  oh- 
taini,  that  they  had  an-i\-('(l  only  ihi'cc  day.-  !;i-c\-iou>ly,  and 
that  they  hoM  connnunicatifjii  with  a  ])arly  inhiiid.  wlm  ti'adc 
with  the  l{u>sian  Fur  ( 'onipany.  The  ('\-('nin,Li,'  Fclorc  they 
liad  ol)-('r\'('d  u<.  hut  could  not  iniauinc  what  laruc  ti'cc-  \vi-n' 
inox'inii  ali()Ut  -our  ma-l.-i  and  all  the  Irihc  luid  asscnihlcd  on 
the  hcach  to  look  at  thcnn  wh(-n  they  aLLTccil  thaJ  it  \\'a>  .-oiiic- 
thinu'  \-('i'y  cxl  !'aoi'dinary.  and  Icl'l  the  thi'cc  nuai  who  nnl  the 
lioat.  to  watch!  d'h(\"  al>o  ,u'a\'c  the  ])lca-in,u'  int ciliu'(-ncc 
that  Avc  -houhl  fiml  o|)cn  water  aloni!.'  the  coa-t  from  ahout 
three  to  !iw'  mile.-  di.-lant  during'  the  .-umnier.  that  the  hea\"y 
ice  \-ery  >eldom  came  in.  or  ne\-ei'  left  the  land  farther  than 
at  ])re.-ent.  that  they  diil  not  know  if  t  hei'e  were  an\'  i-lands 
a-  ihey  found  it  imno-^iole  to  ud  in  iheii-  kayak-,  when  in 
])ur-uir  of  >eal.<.  failher  than  one  day'.-  journey  to  the  main 
ii-e,  and  ti.en  the  lan(--  of  water  allowed  of  their  ])roceedin.u' 
three  ([Ua.'leiv^  of  a  day  fai't  h('r.  wliieh  hroi;i:ht  them  to  \-ery 
larLic  and  hiLi'h  ice,  with  not  .-pace  (-noui:'!!  in  any  jiart  of 
it  to  allow  1  heir  kayak-  to  enter.  The  ])!■()  ha  oh'  di-t  ance,  Air. 
Miert-cliinii.'  lliereinre  e-timale.-.  from  hi-  knowjeine  i,f  tlie 
Iv-ldniM  ha.ifn-.  to  lie  ahout  forty  mile-  off  .-ho!-(  ,  and. 
fi'iiin  what  f  ha\'e  -ei-n  of  the  ])ack,  I  am  inclined  lo  think 
thi-  i-  perfeciiy  correct,  for  a  more  mihroken  ma--  I  ne\-er 
A\m  ne--,-d." 

Th'-i'    na!i\e-.    who-e    (-nlire    li\-"<    ha'l    hei'll    -])f]\]     hf'u^een 

the  ( 'oppermine  liixer  and  Point  I'arrow.  kiaw  noii  im:'  of 
Iraiii^hn'-  pariy,  and  it  wa-  lh<'i'enire  eoni-hioio  'oy  ''apiam 
M'(!urelhat    1  he  /-.'/V /;'/.-■  a.nd  7'' /'/■",'■  had  noi   heeii  !o-i   on  hhe-e 


lor  i'l  e  iiexi   fiiur  or  hix-e  imndred.  mile-  ilny  -kirieij  -fiwiy 

111''  eo:i-;,  piu'l  of  I  he  duie  in  -Ueh  -halloW  WaMT  ihal  tlicy 
rail  a^roed.  l-Ut  folM  ima' ej\-  withou'  damage  to  l!;e  -hilt. 
Tiie    !,;:rroW    lalie-    Otiellinu    ill    the    ice    made    it     iiio'll    1 1  o, -r.^-a  r\' 


CAPTAIN    M'CLUllE  l.")l 

to  retrace  their  course,  but  by  the  2L-t  of  August  they  had 
passed  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  Pdver,  and  made  tlie 
Felly  Islands. 

Upon  reaching  Warren  Point,  natives  were  se(>n  on  shore, 
and  Captain  Al'Cdure,  desiring,  if  ])ossible,  to  send  des])atches 
by  them  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  p(jst.-  on  the 
Mackenzie,  the  l)oats  \\'(n-v.  ordered  out. 

It  was  found  tliat  these  Eskimos  had  no  communication 
with  the  Mackenzie,  being  at  war  with  the  neighbouring  tribes, 
and  having  had  several  skirmishes  with  tho  Indians  of  that 
([uarter.  A  chi(^f  of  tli(>  tribe  had  a  flat  brass  butt(jn  sus- 
})ended  from  his  ear,  and  in  explanation  of  where  h(>  got  it, 
he  re|)h('d:  '"It  had  been  taken  from  a  white?  man,  wlio  had 
been  killed  by  one  of  Ins  tribe.  The  white  man  belonged  to  a 
))arty  which  had  landed  at  Point  "W'tirren,  and  tlier(>  built  a 
house  ;  n()])ody  knew  how  they  came,  as  they  had  no  boat, 
but  tlu^y  went  inland.  The  man  killed  had  >trayed  from  the 
]KU'ty,  and  he  (the  chief)  and  his  M)]i  had  buficd  liim  upon  a 
hill  at  a  littl(>  distance."  It  could  not  l)e  asceitained  ju<t 
\v!i(ii  llii:-  ( v('!it  occui'i'cd.  and  though  Ca])tain  .M'Clure 
tried  to  inv(^-1igate  the  matter,  only  two  very  old  v.'C/odcn  huts 
wcj'c  found,  ;uid  no  grave  (jf  the  white  m;m  was  rli>(Mj\-er(Ml. 

Natives  vcre  coustantl}'  encountered  as  the  I nrtstigdlirr 
proceeded,  and  though  they  seemed  at  first  lio-tiie  and 
di.-inclined  to  ojXMi  eonnniniieation,  the\'  invari^ibly  became 
fi'i(-ndly  and  gratefiill\-  acc('i)ted  the  vari(jus  ])resents  !)est(jwe(l 
upon  them. 

Hm  Se])ti'!nbei'  .1,  ('ai)tai!i  AFClure  writes:  — 

'"The  v,-eat!ier.  which  had  been  squally.  acc()m]")anied  by 
a  thick  fog  duihig  th(^  early  i)art  of  the  da>',  cleared  towards 
noon,   when   a   lai'ge  \'olume  oi  smoke   WcC-    oh)-(-i'\-eil    about 

tweh'e  miles  south-we<t \>    divei's    o])inion<    were    in 

circiihition  re-]iect  ini;:  it-  ju'obable  cause,  and  the  i:'e-iiia.te 
ha\'ing  ]>ositi\-ely  re])orte(l  ihat  fr(;m  tlie  crow's  nest  h(-  could 


l')!^ 


TiiK  Gin: AT  w'lirri:  yoirrii 


(list iiiu'uisl!  several  ])('i's()iis  nioviiiii'  ahout.  dressed  in  white 
shirts,  and  observed  some  white  tents  in  (he  liollow  of  the 
elitf,  I  cei'tainly  had  ev(M'y  reason  to  iniaii'ine  they  were  a  ])arty 
ol'  lOurojxnins  in  (list  ress,  eonx'ineed  that  no  travellers  would 
remain  for  so  lonii;  a  ])eriod  as  we  had  remai'ked  t  he  smoke.  l'"or 
their  ])leasure,  therefore,  to  satisfy  myself,  e(iually  as  other>, 
I  determin(^d  to  send  a  boat  on  shore,  as  it  was  now  (•.•dm. 
The  fii-sf  what(^-!)oat  ,■  undei-  Lieutenant  ( "resswell,  with  Dr. 
Armstron,ii',  and  Air.  Miertschini;,-,  was  despatched  to  examine 
into  the  cause,  who,  on  their  I'eturn,  reported  the  smoke  to 
emanate  from  fifteen  small  mounds  of  \-olcanic  a])peai'anc(% 
occupyiii.ti  :i  space  of  about  fifty  yai'ds.  the  place  sti'on!j,ly 
impreiiiiated  with  sulplnu'.  the  lower  mounds  beinu'  al>()ut 
thirt\'  feet  above  the  sea-level,  the  hi.uhest  about  fifty  feet. 
ddi(>  land  in  its  \'icinit>'  was  blue  clay,  nnich  intersected  with 
i'a\'ines  and  dvvp  watei'-coui'ses,  varyina,'  in  elex'ation  troiii 
thi'ee  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet.  The  mark  of  a  reindeer 
was  traced  to  a  small  pond  of  water  immedialely  ;i!)o\"e  th(^ 
mounds.  Notice  of  our  ha\'in,u'  landed  wc.s  left,  which  would 
not  lon^'  remain,  as  the  clilT  is  e\-idenlly  crumblinLi,'  aA\'ay. 
d"hu-  the  my>tei'\'  of  th(>  white  shirts  and  tents  was  most 
sal  i>faclorily  exi)lained." 

i'iai'ly  ill  the  moi'nini!;  of  the  ()th  of  September  they  wei'O 
off  the  small  i-laiids  near  ('ape  Parr\'  ;  on  the  smne  day  hiu'h 
land  Was  ob-ei'\-ed  on  th(>  port  bow.  I'p  to  this  tiin(>  they 
had  been  sailini!;  alonti;  a  sliore  which  had  been  sur\'eyed  by 
lV;mklin.  Mack.  ])ease.  Simpson.  ;md  others,  ahhouiih  theirs 
w;i-  the  fii'st   .^/iij)  that   had  sailed  in   I  he>e  watei'-. 

The  di-c()\-cry  of  new  tei'ritoi'y  was  t  hei'efoi'e  joyfully  re- 
c<'i\'i'd.  amh  hmdiu'j;  in  the  wliale-!)o;il  and  cultei'.  i'oi'mal 
])i  )--i'--i()ii  w:i-  t;ikcn  in  the  n;nne  of  "llci'  Mor~!  (Iracious 
M;iji'-ty'"  ;iMd  t!ic  Miimc  "  iK-ii'inu'-  I-l;ind'"  bc-idwed  upon  it 
in  hi  lUMMi'  i^\  1  lie  11  r- 1  liM'd  di'  the  Ad  mi  rah  y.  Af;  ei'  deposit  in<j; 
a  i'('ciir(  L  t  hey  I'd  unuMl  id  i  he  -hip  and  >ailcd  aloni:,'  t  he  easld'n 


CAPTAIX  m'clure  153 

coast,  as  it  was  more  free  of  ice  than  that  on  the  west.  Later 
it  was  found  that  the  island  was  one  whose  extreme  north- 
(^astern  shore  had  been  faintl\'  seen  by  Parry  in  1S20  and  given 
l)y  liim  the  name  of  "Banks'  Land."' 

"We  observed/"'  writes  Captain  ALC'hu-e,  "'numerous 
ti'aces  of  reindeer,  hare,  and  wihl-fowl  :  moss  and  (Uvers 
s])ecies  of  wild-fiowers  were  also  in  great  abundance  ;  many 
si)ecimeiis  of  them,  (equally  as  of  the  object  of  inter(\st  to  the 
naturalist,  were  selected  with  much  care  by  Dr.  Armstrong. 
From  an  elevation  obtained  of  al)OUt  five  liundred  feet,  we 
had  a  fine  view  towards  the  interior,  which  was  well  clotluMl 
with  mos-,  giving  a  verdant  appc^arance  t()  tlu^  ranges  of  hills 
that  rose  graduall}'  to  between  two  thousand  and  three  thou- 
sand feet,  inters(H'ted  with  ravines,  which  must  convey  a  co- 
})ious  sup])ly  of  water  to  a  large  laki.'  situated  in  th(^  centre 
of  a  wide  j^lain,  about  fifteen  miles  (Ustant  ;  tlie  sight  to  sea- 
ward was  favotn'able  in  the  extreine  :  open  water,  with  a  very 
small  ([uantity  of  ice,  for  the  distance  of  full  forty  nnles 
towards  the  east,  insured  good  pr(.)gre<s  in  tliat  direction. 
The  W(\ither  l)ec(_)ming  foggy,  our  lead  was  the  (jnly  guide  un- 
til ten  A.M.  of  t!ie  1)1  h  ;  it  then  cleared  for  a  short  time,  when 
land  was  (_)bs(n'\-e(l  to  the  eastwai'd,  about  fifteen  miles  distant, 
(Wtendinti  to  the  northward  :is  far  us  the  eye  could  reach. 

"  The  mountains  in  the  iiUerior  are  hjfty  and  snow-covered, 
while  the  low  groimd  is  (juitc^  free.  Severed  \'ery  remark- 
able i^eaks  wei'e  d.iscernible,  a!)])arently  of  \'()lcanic  origin. 
This  discovery  was  named  i^rince  Albei't's  Land.  Tlu^  wind 
becoming  fair,  and  the  weather  cleai'ing.  all  the  <tudding  sails 
were  >et .  with  the  liope  of  reachinu'  Ijai'r<nv"<  Strait,  from 
v/hich  we  were  now  di<lanl  about  seventy  mile^.  The  wa.ter 
Was  tolerably  clear  in  that  dii'ecliou,  although  much  ice  was 
l\'iu<i  a'j.';'aii-t  the  wcstci'ii  laud  :  .  .  .  much  loo-''  ice  \va<  a,!-o 
in  motion,  and  while  eiideavoi'inu'  to  I'un  between  two  floe<. 
at   tlie  rate  of  four  knots,   they  cIoscmI  so  ra])idl\',  ou''  u])on 


l-")4  THE   CHEAT    WHITE   XOTiTlT 

citlu^r  l)eani,  lluit  our  \\'a\'  w;i.-  instantly  .st()])]i('(l,  and  tlio  vos- 
.<('!  lifted  (■()nsidc)'a!)ly  ;  in  this  jjosition  we  AVcrc  retained  a 
([Uai'tei'  of  an  hour,  when  !  lie  ])re,->ure  eased,  and  we  ])r()('eeded. 
Our  ad\';uiee  w;is  of  >hort  (hu'alion,  as  at  two  p.m.  the  wind 
suddenly  >hiftc(l  to  the  noillicast.  and  l)(\ii,;ai  to  f!'e>hen  :  the 
water,  which  a  few  liour.-  ])!'evious  had  excited  san.uuine  ho])es 
of  a  ^u'ood  I'un,  became  soon  so  thickl}'  studded  with  floes, 
that  ;d)oul  four  p.ai.  there  was  scarcely  sufhcicut  to  keep  the 
ship  [v(^vt.\  ;  x\\\>  hy  mueh  exerti(/n  v,as  hi>wever  effected  until 
two  A.M.  of  the  Mill,  when  we  wei'e  heset."" 

l'"i'oni  no\\'  on.  hafllinu'  winds  and  iin]><Mietral)le  floes  made 
])roiires-  ahnost  inii)()>sil)le.  ddie  total  destruction  of  the 
Iiir<  sltijiilni'  was  daily  tlu'eaterK^l  ])y  the  I'ushes  of  ice  that 
assailed  them  in  the  nai'row  strait  along  which  they  werc^ 
endea\"ourii!SA  to  proceed. 

On  the  17ih  of  Sei)teml>er,  '''ldier('  were  se\-eral  heav\'  floes 
in  the  \'icinily;  one,  full  six  miles  in  length,  jjassed  at  the 
rate-  of  two  knots,  ci'ushing  e\'erything  that  ini])ede(l  its  prog- 
ress, and  grazed  oui'  stai'hoard  how.  Fortunately,  theix' 
wa-  hut  young  ice  upon  the  oppo-ite  side,  whicji  yielded  to 
the  i;re--ure;  l;ad  it  othei'W!->e  occurred,  the  \-(.'--el  must 
ine\'il  ahl.v  liaA'e  heen  (Ml!  asunder.  In  tlu^  afternoon,  we  se- 
cur(Ml  to  a  modieralely  >i/e(l  ])iece.  drawing  eiglu  fatlioms, 
whicii  appeared^  to  offer  a  lair  rei'uge,  and  from  which  we  ne\'er 
afterwai'd-  parted." 

ddi('-maHe-t  p,ool-.  now  l)e(-;mie  c()\-ered  with  ice;  the  la-t 
Ai'-'lie  liird  t(>  iaki>  lliglii  wa-  the  eidei'-duck,  whieh  turnedi 
-i>ui!i  !).\'  the  L'iJd.  I'y  ihe  iTili  of  Septein'her  the  tJKa'mom- 
'•;e:'  -loiid  a!  z.-ro,  a!id  e\'ery  prejiai'ai  ion  wa^  lieinsi:  made 
to  Lon-i'  the  >hip  for  lli"  \eiMter,  Tiie  ice  wa-  iu  con-lant 
and  \"ii  tjcnl  mo;  ion.  '"  Tiie  (a'u-hiiiu',  ci'e.akimi.,  :>])']  -I  r.anhni';.'" 
\\!'ec<  (':,|:,!:iin  M'ohn'e.  "1-  !)(>\-ond  de-cript  ion  :  iheoflieer 
of  '\i'^  \\':i  oil.  N'/lion  -Mc:il;in;i'  lo  me,  i,-  obliged  to  put  hi-  mout  li 
eio-.-  to  m\'  ear,  ojn  ac"(»iuit   of  t!ic  deafeninn,'  noi.-e."' 


CAPTAIX  m'vlure  155 

Cliiiiiiny;  with  tli(^  "tenacity  of  a  bosom-friend"  to  tlie  ice- 
floe to  whicii  lhe\'  were  secured,  "it  convevtMl  us,''  continues 
MX  lure,  '"to  our  fanhest  northeast  ])osition,  latitude  73° 
V  nortli,  I(jn,ii,itude  117°  10'  west,  back  round  the  Princess 
Pvo^'al  Island.-,  })assed  tlie  larfi;est  witliin  five  hundred  yards 
to  latitudi"  72°  42'  nortli.  lon<i-itude  118°  42'  west,  returning 
along  the  coast  of  Prince  All)ert"s  Land,  and  finally  freezing 
in  at  latitude  72°  oO'  nortli,  longitude  117°  o.V  west,  upon  the 
oOth  of  Se])tenil7(>r.  during  wliich  circumnavigation  we 
r(H'eiv(Ml  many  se\-ere  ni])s,  and  wer(>  fi'Cfjuently  driven  close 
to  the  shore,  from  which  our  deep  friend  kei)t  us  off.  To 
avoid  >eparation,  we  had  secured  with  two  stre;;ni-cables, 
one  cliain,  two  six,  and  two  fi\'e  hawsers.  As  our  exposed 
positicjn  render(Ml  e\-ei'v  ])recaution  nece-sary,  we  got  up(jn 
deck  twelve  months'  ])rovisions,  with  tents,  warm  clothing, 
etc.,  and  i.-sucd  to  each  jiei'son  a  ])air  of  cari^et-lxjots  and  a 
blank(i-bag,  so  that  in  the  e\'ent  of  an\'  emergency  rendering 
it  iin])erati\'e  io  {juit  tlie  vessel,  we  might  n(jt  be  destitutes 
( )n  the  Sth  (h'  October,  oxiv  i)e]'])lexit ies  terminated  with  a  nip 
that  lifle(l  tlie  ^-e><el  a  fo(A,  and  heeled  hei'  1°  t(;  port,  in  con- 
Sv'(|uence  of  a  lai'ge  tongtie  getting  beneath  her.  in  which  ]^osi- 
tion  we  (]ui(-tly  remain(Ml.''  Here  the  J nn.^l/fjdtor  passed  the 
winter  of  IS.K)  dS.jl,  during  which  season  a  joui'iu'y  was  made 
over  the  ice  to  the  ,-hores  of  Bai'row  Strait,  which  tliey  found 
connected  with  the  strait  in  which  they  wintered,  thus  estab- 
lishing the  fact  of  a  northwest  passage. 

d'he  j(.)ur!iey  undertakrm  on  tlie  nioniiitg  of  ( )ctob(a'  21, 
1S.')(),  cumc  near  ])i'o\'iiig  fatal  to  ('a])tain  AIX 'lure.  ( )n  the 
j'cturn  ti-ip  Li  week  la^er  ab(jut  2  p.m.  one  afternocm.  ha\'ing 
seeji  the  Priiice^s  lioyal  Isles  and  kiKjwiiig  tlie  ])ositi()n  of  the 
shi]),  lie  decid"d  to  ie;ive  liis  sledge  and  i)U>h  ahead,  that  a 
warm  meal  miii'ht  b(>  made  read}'  for  tlie  re>t  of  tlie  ])arty 
ui)on  tlifir  arrival  at  the  ship.  Xight  ove-i'took  liim  Avhen 
still  at  le;!>i  six  miles  from  tlie  ves-el.  and  a  ileii-e  mi>t,  ac- 
(•((lupanied  by  liea\'y  snow,  ob.-ctn'ed  e\'ery  objiH't. 


Tin:  <:UF..\T  wiiiTK  yoirni 


"I  now."  w'l'itcs  .M'(  'lui'i',  "  chiuhc'l  on  a  mass  of  sciufczcd- 
U!)  ice.  ill  l!ic  hope  of  >ci-iim-  liiy  pai'tv.  should  l)ic\-  pa--  near, 
or  of  aUi'acTiiiii'  the  attcnlioii  of  -onic  oih'  (jii  hoanl  tin'  vcs.-cl 
1)\'  firiii<j.'  my  fo\\iin,u-])iccc.  Cnforl  unatcly.  1  hail  no  other 
ammiuiitioii  ihaii  whal  it  wa>  loaalcd  witli  :  fo!'  I  liad  fancied, 
w'iien  I  h'ft  the  -lediic,  that  two  ehartics  in  tlie  ^u'lin  would  be 
all  I  >hould  l»e  likely  lo  requiic.  Aftei'  waJtiipu'  foi'  an  lutur 
|)al!('nliy,  I  wa<  r('joicc(i  to  .-^cc  throuuh  the  mist  the  ,ularin,u' (>! 
a  lilue  li,t!,ht.  ex'ideiitly  huriit  in  the  direction  in  which  I  had 
left  the  >lc(!o'c.  I  immcijiaiely  fir<-d  to  denote  my  position: 
hut  my  fire  wa.-  unol)>er\'cii.  and.  both  barrel-  beinu'  dis- 
chai'.u'cil.  I  wa-  unable  to  re])eat  the  siuiial.  My  onl}'  ho])e 
now  rc-teil  upon  the  >hip'>  a.n-werinu'.  I>u1  nothinu'  wa-  to  be 
.-I'cn  :  and.  allhouiih  I  once  more  >a,w.  at  a  .ui'eatcr  di-tance. 
tiic  <^\nvc  of  aiiothei'  i,luc  liu'ht  from  the  >1(m1l:,-c,  there  -eenied 
710  probability  of  m\'  ha\inu'  any  other  .-heher  for  the  niuht 
than  wiiat  ihe  floe  atfol'iled.  d'wo  lioUl'-  elap-edi  ;  I  endeav- 
ored to  -(■(•  the  face  of  my  pocket  compa--  i)y  the  liu'lit  ol  a 
.-olitary  iucifer  tnalch.  which  hapnened  to  bi'  in  my  pocket: 
but  in  thi-  hope  I  wa-  ci'ueHy  di-aj)|)oinled.  f(;r  it  fi/zed  and 
wiiit  out.  lea\'iim'  me  in  total  d:ui;iie-<.  It  wa>  now  half-pa.-t 
ei'j,!ii  :  thei'e  were  ele\-en  hour-  of  ihmht  behu'e  me.  a  teinpera- 
tnre  of  1")  below  zero,  bear-  pro\\"hn;i,'  about,  ami  1  with  an 
unloaded  uuji  in  my  h;iiid-.  The  -jed^e-part  \'  miulii.  how- 
(•\-er.  reacli  tlie  -!:ip'.  and.  liiidinu'  I  had  not  arri\'e(i.  search 
Would  lie  made,  and  help  be  -ent  :  -o  I  walked  to  aipi  fi'o  u|)on 
my  liummock  until.  I  -ujipo-e,  it  mu-t  ha\'e  bi'i'H  e|e\-en 
o'rioi-k.    when    t!:a;    hope    fjiil    liki'Wi-e.       l)e-cendiim'   from    the 

top   of   tiie   ~!;ib   oi'   ire    UMoll    wiucli    I    had   chmibeivd.    I    lolUld    UU- 

di-r  it-  fe  a  fauiou-  bed  o!'  -oft.  i|ry  -now:  and  thorouiihly 
tiriMi  oiit.  [  tlii-'-w  my-eh'  upon  it  and  .-lept  for  perhaji-  three 
hiiur-,  \'.'(,eii.  upMii  op'iiinLi'  m\'  i->'e-.  1  faiieied  I  -aw  tlie  fla-h 
ol'  ::  ''oeki'l.  .b  i  ii  1 1  li  n  LI'  Upon  my  feet.  I  fouinl  that  the  mi-t 
hcd   rj,  areij   oil',   ;md   diat    the  -!,:ir-  and  aurora  boreali-  were 


BISCOVKRV   OF   THE  SOIiTJIWEST  PASSAGE  l')l 

shinin<2;  in  all  the  s])l('n(lor  of  an  Arctic  night.  Althou<2;h  unal)l(! 
to  sec  the  iskmcls  or  the  ship,  1  wandered  about  tlie  ice  in 
(hft'ercnt  (hrections  until  daylij^ht,  when,  to  my  great  morti- 
fication, I  found  I  had  })assed  the  slii})  fuUy  the  cUstance  of 
four  miles." 

81(Hlge  journeys  along  the  shores  of  Baring  Island  an<l  Princ(^ 
Albert  Land  were  muU^rtaken,  but  no  trace  of  Franklin  or 
his  party  was  discovered.  Tracers  of  Eskimos  were  found, 
but  only  one  party  met  with  ;  however-,  deer,  nuisk-oxen,  and 
Ixnirs  wen^  encounten-d.  A  bear  was  killed,  and,  when  oj^x^ned, 
its  stomach  was  found  to  contain  raisins,  tobacco,  ])ork,  and 
adhesive  ])laster  !  This  extraordinary  nuMlley  led  ('a])tain 
]\r'(  'hu'c  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Enterprise  was  in  the  vicin- 
ity, and  a  dilig(>nt  search  was  instituted,  l)ut  the  only  result 
was  th(>  discovery  of  a  ]ir(>sei-ve(l  meat  canister,  whicli  con- 
taininl  similar  ai'tich-s,  ])i'()!)ably  the  sjune  from  which  tlu^ 
bear  had  obt .-lined  his  unusual  meal.  By  the  VM\\  of  June, 
1S.~)1,  all  the  sledge  ])arties  having  ixiurncMl  in  saf(4\'  to  tlic 
ship,  (n-erything  ^^'as  made  ready  to  s(>t  sail  the  moni(Mit  the 
huge  barriei's  of  ice  sliould  jiei'mit. 

"The  first  indication  of  o])en  watei',"'  wi'ites  r'a])tain 
Al'diu'e,  '■occurr(Ml  to-day  (.luly  7th)  extending  some  dis- 
tance along  the  shon^  of  Prince  AllxM't's  Land,  about  a  mik; 
in  width  ;  the  ice  in  exvvy  direction  is  so  ra'pidly  decaying, 
b(>ing  nuich  acceleratcMl  b}-  sleet  and  I'ain,  \\\\]\  the  thermom- 
eter standing  at  1.")°,  tliat,  by  tlu-  Uth,  thai  which  for  the 
last  few  days  had  been  slightly  in  motion,  with  hni'ge  spaces 
of  water  intervening,  suddenly  and  noiselessl}'  oikmumI  around 
the  vc^ssel,  lea\'ing  her  in  a  jjond  of  foiMy  yards:  but  seeing 
no  ])os->ibilily  of  gelling  wilhoui  its  liniits,  we  \v<>re  coni])eiled 
to  >e('ure  to  the  fioe  V\'hich  had  for  ten  monlhs  befriended  lis, 
and,  with  tln^  W!i(»l(>  of  the  jiack,  gi-aduail\'  d!'ifte(l  to  the 
southwai'd,  tow;u'd  the  Prin'/e-s  Hoyal  Islincl-,,  which  we 
])assed  t.ui  the  ca>l(M'n  >ide  within  hah'  a  mile. 


15S 


TJiK  (.iiKAT  wiirri-:  soirni 


"  r])()ii  the  17tli.  ;i1  10  A.M..  hciiiu  ;nii()n,ii' l()t)^(■  ice.  wo  fast 
off  from  the  i!oc  and  made  -ail.  with  lh<'  hope  of  ^cuiu.u-  ui)(ju 
the  wc.-tci'U  ^hoi-c  whci-c  tiic  water  appeared  to  !)(■  iiiakini!,', 
litil  withoul  .-liippiii^L;,'  ihe  rud_der.  i!i  con-efiueiice  of  heiiiLi; 
iii  the  \aeiiiiiy  ol'  se\'e!\ai  laru'c  llocs,  and  at  2  i-.M.  asiaiu 
secured  to  li  li(;(-  hetwciii  llie  I'l'itice.--  i.'oyal  and  Iktriiii;- 
i-landis  'we  i)a.--(-d  o\"er  a  ,-hoal  liavini':  niiieie('ii  fatlioin-'. 
()ii  the  201  !i.  at  !ialf-j)a>t  ele\-en  .\.M..  a  liuiil  air  -];ran'.L'  np 
fi'oni  the  >oui  liW<'.-l .  which,  ,-lackinu'  the  ice,  a'ave  hope-  of 
nialciii.u.'  ])r(;,^i-(-.-.-  to  the  northeast,  in  which  (hi'ection  1  Vv'as 
anxious  to  ,si'(-l  fo!'  the  ])U!'])ose  of  en1ei'in;r  liarroAV  Sti'ait, 
that,  acciji'dinu'  to  circun!-tanc(-s,  I  nii.uht  he  enahled  \() 
carry  out  my  oi'iuinal  inteiilion-  of  ])i'ocee.liim  to  ihe  north- 
ward of  Melx'iiif  L-land,  as  detailed  in  my  hto-r  to  the  sec- 
i'ei;u-y  of  the  .Vdmii'ail  \'.  of  July  20'.  h"^-10  :  or.  >}iould  -uch 
noi  'he  pi'aciicahli-.  I'eluni  io  I'Jiuland  th.'^ouuli  ih(-  sti'ait. 
Ai'ler  ni()>i  pel -(■\-c!'ii)n'  (-i'fori  -  to  ];enetrate  into  I'ai'row 
^^1  rait .  { ';;ptain  .M"(  lure  A\-;i>  oOli'^ed  to  aOandion  tlie  at  trjupt . 
()!i  the  lf;th  of  Au'iU-t  In-  del  ermii  le^  1  to  co;i-t  round  the 
W(  -li'rn  dinri'-  of  tjie  i-1  uid  and  ];ia!:e  lhe  pa--a;ie,  il'  po>.dl>le. 
1(1  diC  nor;  hwari  i  oi'  IjaUK-   h:ind. 

■•  Al   4   a.M.  (in  ihe   Is'h."  he  wrile-.  "hi  iuLT  off  a  wvx  !m\\- 


■i-il    (,1   -Ma 


I) 


K'llen   wtac],   evtcuoi  d   to   t!;e    W('-!wari| 


ler  ahoul  iweKe  mii''-.  in  tl/'  :Mi'm  nt'  a  hoi'-e-hoe.  ha\'- 
inii' a  -ea.-ide  lliicfdy  .-'ud.ihd  wiih  ^^roiuidid  ii-c,  wliih'  ihe 
inii-rior  wa-  •' xeuipt  fi'om  any.  1  M-nl  Mr.  ( 'ouri  '-econd 
m:!-l(  V  i  to  exaniin','  il,  who  ri-'porltfl  ;ui  excellent  andi  commo- 
diou-  harl:Mur.  W(  11  -la-lii  v<i\  frduu  U(irdi-we~t  oi  -oiilh.  '■;,rr\- 
iii'_  fi-,'<'  falhdUi-  widiin  len  yard-  of  the  hcac!!,  \\-hich  \''a-; 
-'f.M'jf-.  and  i'o\'i'r('d  ^,\a'h  driliweod.  A  ,-"t  nl  -luhl-  was 
(Aaanid.  and  a  ca-!;.  coni  cininii  a  notic-.  wa-  !■■;!  th('re. 
i  i-i^i,  ■':'•  nid'iiim.;  oi'  A:'-  10;  !i.  ^^■e  hv  l!:i-  ]..w  r,,;,.i ,  and 
]>:!--iij  1,.  ;  \',-i -n  '  \\-()  -iM.ill  id:iiiiA  lyina  ;)t  li^e  (■nli'.'UM-e  of 
v.'a.'     -au-rU'd    a    d'''i)    inl'-;.     ruiii;ina    ea-t— out  h-e;a-l .    and 


DISCOVKIIY   OF  THE  yOJiTlIlVL'ST  PASSA(;E  159 

then  turninp;  sliar])  to  north-cast.  It  liad  a  barrier  of  ice 
cxtciKiiiii!;  ao'oss,  Avliich  ])]vv(nit(\l  tiny  coimiiuiiication. 
A\'isliin};'  lo  kccj)  bc^twecn  the  iiortli(>riiinost  of  these  ishuuls  and 
the  mainhuul,  to  a\'oid  the  pack,  whicli  was  ver\-  nc^ar  it,  we 
narrowly  eseaixMl  gettini>;  on  shore,  as  a  re(^f  extenck'd  from 
th(^  latter  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  island.  FortTmately, 
tlie  wind  Ixunjz;  lijihl,  we  rounded  to  with  all  tlu^  studdin<>;- 
sails  s(^t,  and  let  ti'o  the  anchor  in  tAVo  and  a  half  fathoms, 
liavin,!;-  a.boul  h/iir  inch(>s  lo  s])ar(>  un(l(M'  the  keel,  and  warped 
into  four,  while  Air.  Court  A\'as  sent  to  find  a  channel  in  which 
he  succeedcHl,  eari'vin;;  Wwoc  fathoms,  Ihroutih  which  we  ran 
for  oiK^  mll{\  and  then  continued  our  course  in  ciii,'ht,  havins 
from  thi'(>e  to  five  mil(>s  l)(>tw(M'n  the  ic(^  and  land.  At  8 
I'.M.,  we  neared  two  (jtlu^r  islands,  th(>  ivo  restiua,'  u])on  the 
wesKn'umost,  upon  which  1h(>  j^i'cssm'c  nu;st  hav(>  been  (^x- 
e(^<^i\'(\,  as  l;!ri2;(^  mass(^s  w(a'(>  foi'ccMl  r,(\aiy  over  ils  summit, 
whicii  was  upvairds  of  forty  feet.  Ijctween  thesc^  and  the 
juaiu  W(^  ran  throut;h  a  clianu(>l  in  from  uine  to  fifteen  fathoms, 
A\-h(>u  an  iinmediate  and  mai'ked  ch.an.iix^  took  place  in  tlie 
<i(Mieral  a.])i)i^arance  and  foi'mation  of  the  land  :  it  became 
hiii'h,  ])recipit()us,  st(a'il(>,  and  ru,'2,-si-ed  :  interseet(>d  with  deep 
ra\in(\s  aaid  water  course's,  havin.u'  six-fi\'e  f;ithoms  ad  a  fjuartia" 
of  a,  mile,  and  {ii't(-en  fathoms  one  hundj'cd  yards  from  the 
clilTs.  wliicli  ])roved  exceedint;-ly  fortunate  as  the  whole  ])ack, 
wliich  liaal  api):u'<Mitly  only  just  broken  from  tlie  shor(\,  was 
^^"i!hin  half  a,  mile,  and,  in  many  ]d;!C(-s.  so  close  to  it,  that  to 
a.void  gettiria;  b(>>ef,  we  had  nearly  to  toucii  \hc  land  ;  irukn'd, 
upon  sever;d  o('(';!siims,  I  lie  boats  were  comjX'lled  to  be  top])e(l- 
U]),  and  ])oles  n.se;i  \o  kvc])  \]\c  V(\ssel  o!f  t!i(>  <;'i'ounde(l  ic(>  ; 
v.'hieh  extcaids  ;dl  a'on,u'  this  eoiist  :  nor  could  we  I'ound  to. 
tearful  of  cai'ryiny,-  tlie  jib-boom  away  a.'zainst  the  clirt's, 
wliieh  liere  rim  neai'lx'  east  and  west.  The  cajjc  t'oi'min.a;  its 
western  extr(Mni'  I  lun'c  called  Prince  Alfi'cd,  in  honour  of 
his  RoA'al  Ilidmess.     On  the  morniu";  of  the  20th,  our  fur- 


Isji.) 


Tin:  cm: AT  white  youTii 


th(r  ])r()iii'c><  v\';;s  iiii])Cilc(l  liv  lindinir  the  ice  rc-tinu"  U])()n 
;i  ])()iiit,  which  ini'iiicd  a  r-liu'ht  iiidciitai  ion  of  -hiorc,  and  was 
the  only  ]dacc  wiiri'c  water  could  he  >ci-\i.  T(j  ])i'('\'('nt  bcinj^ 
carried  away  with  the  ])ack.  which  was  [illinji  u])  its  -i^acc, 
wc  >ccurc(l  to  the  iii-hore  side  ol'  a  >niall  hut  hea\'y  i)iece  of 
ice,  ^ti'rounded  in  tweh'e  fathoms  >event\'-f()ur  \'ards  fi'oni 
the  beach-  the  only  ])r(jtectio]i  a^'ainst  the  tremendous 
Polar  ice  >ettinu'  a  knot  per  hour  to  the  eastward  hefijre  a 
I're.-li  we.-terly  wind  .  which  at  i)  p.m.  ])lace(l  u<  in  a  \-ery 
ci'itical  ])o-ition.  h\'  a  lariie  floe  striking  the  |)iec(>  \ve  were 
fa>t  to.  and  cau--iiui'  it  to  oscillate  s(j  con>ideral)ly.  that  a 
ton,uue  which  ha|)|)(-iie<l  to  he  tnider  otu'  Ixjttom.  lifted  the 
ve->el  -ix  feet  ;  liul.  1  >y  u'reat  attention  to  the  anchors  and 
warn-,  v.'e  -uccceileil  in  holdinu'  on  durin,<r  the  c(_)nflict,  which 
wa>  coutimieil  -evcral  minutes,  tei'minat  in.U'  l>y  the  flo;' 
heinu'  rent  in  i)iec!'s.  and  our  liein,<i  dri\'en  nearer  tlie  heach. 
h'rom  thi-  tmtil  the  2!Mri,  we  la\'  ])erfectly  >ecure,  but  at 
S  A.M.  of  that  day.  the  let-  licLian  -uddeuly  to  mo\-e,  when  a 
lariie  floe,  that  mu-t  ha\'e  cauulit  the  piece  to  which  we  wei'e 
atlachi'd  undei'  one  of  it-  o\'ei'hanuiiUi  led^e-.  rai-ed  it  j)er- 
])eniiicular  hy  thirty  lect.  ])ri'-enTiim'  to  all  on  hoaril  a  mo-t 
tViuhtful  a-p"ct.  A-  it  a-cended  ahox'e  the  foi'i-yard.  mtlcll 
ai)p.rehfn-ion   wa-   f'-lt.    that    it    miuht   he   thrown   comjjletely 

o\'er,  when  the  >l;ip  mu-t  ha\'e  lieeli  c!'U>hed  lieueatll  it. 
Thi-  -ir-jicn-e  Wa-  hut  fill'  a  few  niiliut  I  ■-,  a-  i  he  fioe  i-i'Ut  .  cai'l'>'- 
iiiii  a'.v::y  wuli  ii  a  laruc  jjicc  from  the  found.alidii  nf  nur 
;!-\iinn.  wiieii  it  iiavr  M'\'('ral  fcarl'ul  roll-,  ami  re-uniiMl  its 
tunnel'  p(i-i'ioi!:  hut.  no  lom:ci'  capahle  of  I'c-i-ium  the 
pri --lu'c.  i;  Wa-  hu!-'-ii'd  onward  with  t  Im'  drift  ini:'  ma--.  Our 
[irnviiiiiye  •  ■  i  i  !:r  -h'  i>v  <  ■()!!!  pi 'II  i -d.  a-  i  uir  i  inly  hi  i]  h'-  •  if  .-afi'ty. 
thf  al'-:ilu'i'  ni'''i'--!iy  of  hi'ldiuLi-  In  it  :  we  ron-ei  |Uent  Iv 
-i'i-!U''d    Willi    a    I'lciln.    -Iri'am    and    hi'Uip    c,a!ili\    three,    >i\, 


aU'l   ;  wm  fl 
ii .      In  t !,: 


naw-rr-.   Itu'i'i'  lit    which   wr!v  pa--<Ml   I'ouiiil 
Wr    Wiav    fiifrid    aliiU^-.    -inkinu'    \:iV<J.r    piece- 


nisrovEHY  OF  riiE  yoimnvEsr  passage       IGl 

IxMioatii  tlic  bottom,  and  ?;ustuinin<2;  a  heav\'  strain  against 
the  stem  ami  fiKldcr  ;  tlie  latter  was  nnich  (lania<ic(l,  hut 
to  nii>hi])  it  at  ])r('S('nt  was  ini])ossil)l('.  At  1  p.m.,  tlu; 
])rc>sure  cased,  from  tlu^  ice  Ijeeoming  stationary,  wluai  it 
^\■as  unliim.u'  and  laid  ui)on  a  large  floe  ])iece,  where,  by  S  p.m.. 
owing  to  the  activity  of  Mr.  Ford,  the  carpentcn-,  who  is 
always  readx'  to  meet  any  emergency,  it  was  repaired,  just  as 
the  ice  began  again  to  \)v  in  motion  :  but  as  the  tackles 
were  li(_)oke<l,  ii  was  I'un  U])  t(j  the  davits  witliout  further 
damage."  ( "ontinuing  liis  exciting  narrative,  (.'aptain  AFClure 
writes  :  — 

"  ^A'e  w(>i'e  now  setting  fast  u])on  another  large  picM'c  of  a 
bi'oken  floe,  grounded  in  nine  fathoms  u])on  the  debris 
forme(l  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  ri\-er.  Feeling  confident 
that.  >hould  we  be  caught  between  this  and  what  we  wei'e 
fast  to.  the  shi])  nuist  ine\'itably  go  to  ])ieces.  and  yet  Ix'ing 
awai'c  that  to  cast  off  would  certainl\'  sc^nd  us  on  the  beach 
(from  which  we  were  n(>ver  distant  eighty  yards).  u])on  which 
the  -mallei'  ice  was  hurled  as  it  came  in  contact  with  th(-se 
gi'ounded  masses.  I  sent  John  Keri'  (gmmer's  mate)  under 
\-er}'  difiicuh  cii'cumst;inces.  to  endeavor  to  reach  it  and  elfcct 
it>  de>tructiou  by  bla-ting  ;  he  could  not,  however,  find  a 
sufficient  >])ace  of  water  to  sink  the  chai'ge,  but  remarking 
a  large  caN'ity  i!])on  the  sea  face  of  the  floe,  he  fixed  it  thei-e, 
which  -o  far  -uci'ccdeil.  that  it  slightly  fraetui't'd  it  in  three 
])lace-,  \\-!iich..  at  the  moment  was  -carcely  obser\'able.  from 
the  hea.\'\'  ])r'— ->Mre  it  wa<  su-taiuiug.  T)\'  thi~^  time,  the 
\-e<sel  was  within  a  f(>\\  feet  of  it,  and  every  one  was  on  declc 
in  anxiou-  <u-pen>e.  .await inu'  what  was  a]")])arently  the  crisi-; 
ol'  our  fate  :  mo-t  forttmately.  the  -tei'U  ])o.-t  1o()k  it  m)  fairly, 
that  1  he  ])res-ure  \\-;i-  fore  and  aft .  briiminii'  tlie  v»iiole  st  renu'l  h 
of  the  >hip  to  bc:ii'.  a  hea\">'  grind,  which  -hook  e\aa'\'  ma-t. 
and  ean-ed  beam.-  and  declv-  to  c()inph-iin.  a-  s!ie  tn-mbliMl  to 
tl!('  \'iolence  of  the  .-hock.  i)lainl\'  indicated  that  the  struii'uie 


l&I 


THE  <;reat  white  yoirrif 


\\()ul(l  he  l)Ut  of  sh(ji1  duration.  At  this  iiioincnl ,  the  sti'caiu- 
caldc  was  carricMl  a\\'a\',  and  scx'cral  anchor.-  diX'W  ;  tliinkiu,<i' 
that  w'c  had  now  suihcicntlx'  risked  th(;  v('»(-I,  order.-  were 
j:ii\-en  lo  let  go  the  warps,  and  with  that  oi'der  I  had  made 
up  ni\'  mind  that  in  a  lew  miinites  she  \\-()uld  ite  on  tlie 
l)ea<'h  ;  hut,  as  it  was  .-loping,  e()neei\-ed  she  miuht  .-~li!l 
])ro\'e  an  a.-\'hnn  lov  the  winter,  and  ])os>il)]y  he  a,uain  u'ot 
afloat;  while,  .-hould  she  he  crushed  l)etwe(ii  t  hoe  lai'U'e 
jii'oimded  pieces,  .-he  mu-1  inevitahlx'  ,U()  d.()\\-!i  in  ten  i'lahoms. 
^vhich  would  he  certain  destruction  to  all:  hut  hiefoi'c  the 
or'lers  could  he  oheyed,  a  merciful  Pro\'idence  inteipo-ed, 
cau.-iuii:  the  ice,  which  had  pi'e\'iou>ly  \veak'eiie(l,  to  -e])ai'ate 
into  three  pieces,  and  it  floated  onward  with  the  mass,  our 
sliTii  .-till  li,'j,htly  jammed  against,  hut  no\\'  ])rotected  hy  it. 
The  \-e,--eh  which  had  heen  thi'own  o\'er  fifteen  de^'ree.-,  atid 
I'i.-en  hodily  one  foot  ei^'ht  inches,  now  rijihti'd  and  settle*!  in 
the  Water;  the  only  dama.U'e  sustailKMl  was  se\"eral  .-heet-  of 
C()])pei'  ripped  off  ;uid  rolled  Uj)  like  a  sheet  of  ])aj)ei',  hut  not 
a  fa-teniuLi;  had  ,tii\'en  way.  noi'  does  any  leaka^u'e  indicate  the 
sli,ii.hte-t  defect.  ]]y  midniuht,  the  ice  wa<  .-t  at  ii)Uar\'.  and 
e\'eryt!iiii,!j;  (|uie1,  which  continued,  until  the  lOlh  of  Se|)tem- 
hei'  ;  indeed,  fi'om  the  tempes'ature  ha\'i!i,U'  fallen  to  sixteen 
deL!.i'e<'-,  with  all  a])pearance  of  the  .-ettintr  in  ot'  the  wintei-, 
I   con.-idered  our  fai'iher  prou'rc-.-  -toppeil  until  next   y(-ai'." 

I'nlll  the  end  of  S''])temhe!',  iiirii'  eoui'-e  u'a-  one  ini- 
\'ai\\'inu'  .-cene  of  hiittliim'  au'ain-t  dillicullie-  >imilai'  to  tl.n-e 
iu.-l  de-ci'ihed.  Ha\-inu'  r<'ached  the  we-tern  e\treni|ity  of 
l';inks  h:in(l.  •■  1  determined,"'  write-  ('aptain  M'('h;!'e, 
''III  m;iki'  ihi-  (»ui'  winter  fjuai't  ^-r-.  and,  haxini;'  rem.-ii'kcil 
upon  tlie  .-outli  ,-ii|c  of  the  hanlx  on  which  W''  had  uroundi'd, 
a  welj-pn  iti-cicil  tia\-.  Mr.  ( 'ourt  wa-  ( |e-p;!i  chc(  |  lo  -amid 
il  :  ;ini|,  .-horlly  makimi'  tin'  -i^n;il  there  W;i-  -lifhrii^nt  watei', 
\vr  liore  up,  and  at  t'l  )ri  y-fi\-i '  mimitc-:  pa-i  7  \.M.  u'e 
anchored   in   I'oiU'  and   a  hall'  lalhoms.   and   that    niuht    were 


])I>:C()VEnY   OF  THE  yORTllWEST  PASSAGE  H'>-] 

fii'inly  frozen  in,  in  what  has  since  proved  a  most  safe  and 
excellent  harbor,  which,  in  si'deful  reni(nn])i'ance  of  tlie 
nuuiy  ]ierils  that  we  had  (\sca])ed  (huiniu;  the  ]xissage  of  that 
terrible  Polar  Sea,  we  have  named  tlie  'liay  of  2^Iercy'  ;  thus 
finally  terminal ina;  this  short  season's  operations,  having 
been  actually  only  five  entire  da_ys  under  way."  From  now 
on  ever\'  ])i'(>])aration  was  made  to  spend  the  winter  as  com- 
fortably as  conditions  would  admit." 

"As  therc^  ;i])])ear(>(l  much  <iam(>  in  \hv  vicinity,"  writers 
Ca])tain  ATC'lm-c^  "and  tlic  weatlu^r  continu(>d  mild,  shoot- 
ing ])arti(^s  wei'e  establish.ed  in  diiT(>rent  directions  l)(d^^'(Mm 
tlie  *Jth  and  2od  of  Octobei- ;  so  that,  with  what  was  killcMl 
fi'om  the  shi]),  our  su])"ply  of  fresh  ])ro\'isions  at  the  connncMice- 
mcMit  of  the  winter  consisted  of  niuiC^  de(M-,  fifty-thi'c^e  hares, 
and  h)rty-four  ])tai'mi,iran,  all  in  line  condition,  the  fonner 
havina,'  fi'om  two  to  thre(>  inclies  of  fat." 

"In  cons(Hiu(MiC(»  of  our  favoixnl  ])osition,"  h.v  continm^s, 
"th(^  cr;nv  were  enabled  to  I'iunble  ov(>!'  the  hills  almost  dail_y 
in  ([U("st  of  gam(\,  and  th.eir  ex(M'tions  ha])])ily  su])])lie(l  a 
fresh  meal  of  venison  three  times  a  fortnight,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  about  thre(>  weeks  in  Januaiy,  when  it  Avas  too  dark 
h)r  shooting.  The  small  game,  such  ;is  ]^tarmigan  and  har(\s, 
hieing  scarce.  v,-(>i-e  allowe(l  to  be  I'etained  by  the  s])ortsni(Mi 
as  private  property.  This  healthy  and  exhilarating  (>xei'cise 
k(>pt  us  all  well  and  in  excellent  s])irits  during  anotluM'  te- 
dious winter,  so  that  on  tlie  Jst  of  April  we  hade  U]nvards  of 
a  thousand  ])ouiids  of  -vejiison  hanging  at  tlie  yai'd-arins." 

Tilt-  exciting  ex]MM'ience  of  S(M'geant  W'oon,  a  marin(\ 
A\'iiile  out  hunting,  is  intei'esnng.  \Mii!(>  piu'suing  a  wound(-d 
de(M',  he  suddenly  and  uuexiiectedlx'  met  ;i  cou])le  of  musk- 
bulls,  which  lie  suj'ceed(Ml  in  Avoundiiui.  Infuriated  with 
])ain.  on(-  of  the  musk-oxen  rusiied  towards  liim.  Ihiviug 
e\])ended  h.is  .-;hot.  ihe  serg(>ant  i'wvi]  his  "Avorm"  at  th(^ 
animal,  but,  this  having  linle  or  no  eilect,  tlit;  bull,  though 


]<;4 


TIIK   (iliEAT    WIIITK   .XORTU 


W(>ak('n(Ml  from  tliv  loss  of  hlood,  when  witliiii  six  f('(^t,  put 
his  liead  to  ilic  ^•I'ouiid  as  if  for  a  final  rush.  With  ([uick 
action  the  s(M'^(^aiit  fired  his  iron  ramrod,  which,  cutcrin*^ 
behind  the  animal's  left  shoulder,  ])ass(Ml  throu,<i,h  the  heart 
and  out  at  the  rit;ht  flank,  dro])i)in^'  him  lifeless. 

On  another  occasion,  the  })resence  oi  mind  of  Ser,i;'eant 
AVoon  saved  the  hfe  of  a  com])ani(jn,  a  coloui'ed  man  and 
member  of  the  crew.  It  was  in  January  and  bitterly  cold; 
the  coloured  man  had  been  out  huutinji  and  lost  his  way. 
He  heji'an  to  fancy  himself  frozen  t(.)  death,  and  from  sheer 
f(>rror  lost  his  wits.  The  sei'.ti-eant  met  liim.  but  could  not 
induce  tlu^  ])ooi'  h'Uow  to  follow  him.  ddie  coloui'ed  mau 
stood  dazed  and  shivei'in,!;',  and  finally  fell  in  a  fit.  A\'aitin<^ 
until  he  was  somewhat  r(>viv(M!,  the  sei',<;'eant  eithei'  cari'ied 
or  rolled  him  down  hills  or  hummocks  for  ten  l()n.i;'  hours, 
until  h(^  ,uot  him  within  a  mile  of  tlie  shij).  The  serucant 
was  by  this  time  t  horou,ii,hly  exhausted  and  trie(l  to  persuade 
the  n(\u,i'o  to  walls,  biit  the  ])oor  demented  ei'eatui'e  only 
be<i',ii'ed  to  be  "let  alone  to  die."  l)eiu,t;;  unable  to  ])ersua(le 
liim,  the  only  thin_ii,'  left  was  to  ])lace  him  in  a  bed  of  deep 
snow,  and  then,  with  all  his  r'emainin^ii;  st  ren,i;1  h,  t  he  sei',u'eanf 
hastened  to  the  slii|)  for  assistance.  Ivelurnin;;'  as  soon  as 
])o>-il)le  to  the  sjx)!  whei'e  the  poor  neuro  had  been  left,  they 
found  him  \y'\\\\  his  arms  si  iff  and  rai--ed  ahox'c  his  head,  his 
eye-  open,  and  his  moulh  >o  hi'mly  fi'ozfii  tliat  it  i'e(|uireil 
considei'able  foi'ce  to  open  it  and  pour  down  i'e>torat  i\('-<. 
lie  -till  ii\-ed,  ho\\-e\-er,  and  eNcntually  reco\'ered,  with  no 
more  serious  i'(\-ults  than  I'ro.-t -bites  to  his  haiub,  feel,  nnd 
face. 

The  -ccoiid  ('hi'i-tma-  was  pa<s(>(|  cheei'Tully  and  with  a, 
bom  1 1  ('Oil-  supply  of  u'ood  t  hinus.  "A-  it  wa-  lo  be  our  last ," 
Wl'ilr-  (■;ip1;iiM  .Ab('luri',  ■"the  (TcW  del  (  I'Mli  I  led  to  ni;ikc  it 
m'Miior.-iblc.  ;iiii|  llii'ir  exei'tion-  weri'  coiiipletely  succe<>ful  ; 
each  mo.-  wa-  ua\i\-   illu.niliiat  cd  ami  deeorated  with  oi'i<;inal 


hlHCOVEUY  OF  THE   .XOHTJIWEST  rAssA(;E  1(;5 

paiutin.n's  by  oiir  l(>\v(M--(l('rk  artists,  cxhibitin.i;'  the  shij)  in 
her  ])('ril()us  ])()siti()iis  dui'in^  the  transit  of  the  polar  sea, 
and  ili\'rrs  other  subjcM'ts  ;  but  the  <2;ran(l  features  of  the 
(lay  \vei'(^  th(^  enormous  iihnn  ])U(l(lin^u;s  (some  \vei<i;hing 
twenty-six  ])oun(lsj,  ha,uneh(\s  of  venison,  hares  roasted,  and 
so!i])  made  of  tlie  same,  with  ptarnii.(>:an  and  sea  pies.  Such 
dainties  in  suc!i  ])rofusion  I  should  imaii,'in(.^  never  before 
gi'aced  a  shi])"s  1(.)\v(M'  deck  ;  any  strange^-,  to  hav(^  witnessed 
the  scene,  could  i)Ut  faintly  imagine  that  he  saw  a  crew  which 
had  i)assed  upwards  of  two  years,  in  these  dreary  re<rions, 
and  tlu'ce  (aitirely  u|)on  their  own  I'csources,  enjoyin<2;  such 
excellent  health  -'  so  jo\'ful,  so  ha])])y ;  ind(>ed,  such  a 
mii'thful  assembla.ii'e,  mider  any  circumstances,  would  be 
most  ,<iratifyin.<i'  t(^  any  officer  ;  but  in  this  lonely  situation, 
1  could  not  but  feel  dee]il\'  im])r(\ss('d  as  I  cont(>ni])lat(Ml  the 
gay  and  plenteous  sight,  with  the  many  and  gi'eat  merci(\s, 
^\'hich  a  kind  and  ben(^fic(Mit  l^rovidence  luid  extended 
towards  us,  to  whom  alone  is  due  the  heai't-felt  i)raises  as 
t  haiik-gi\'ings  of  all  for  the  great  blessings  which  we  hav(^ 
hitherto  experienced  in  ])ositions  the  most  desolate  which 
can   be  <'oiicei\'ed."' 

In  the  autunm  of  IX.l'i,  Cajitain  A["("lure  had  made  known 
his  intentions  of  >ending  to  J-Jigiand,  the  following  sjjring. 
half  of  the  ohicei's  and  crew  ri(i  Piaffin  Bay  (taking  the  l)oat 
from  ( 'aj)e  S])eneer)  and  the  Alackenzie.  The  I'cmainder  of 
tl'.e  crew  v.cre  to  stand  by  the  shi])  in  the  h()])e  of  releasing 
her  in  the  summer  of  iSo;!,  should  they  fail  in  this  thc^y  would 
])roceed  ^\'itll  sledges  in  ]S~)[  by  Port  Le()])ol(l,  '■c)ur  ]:)i'()vi- 
sions  admitting  of  no  other  arran.gement."  In  the  de- 
s])atch  ])]-epared  by  ("a])tain  APClm-e  which  he  s(Mit  home  by 
the  land  i)ai'ty  in  ]>^')'.\.  occurs  the  follovv'ing  ])assage  :  — 

"SluMild  an\-  of  her  Majest\''s  slii])s  be  sent  for  oui'  relief,  and 
we  lia\'e  (luitted  Port  Leo))o]d.  a  notice  containing  informa- 
tion of  oui'  route  v^'ill  l)e  left    on   tlif>   door  of   the   hou-e   at 


iiit; 


TIIK   GREAT    WHITE  yoUTLL 


Winder's  Point,  or  on  some  (■ons])i{'uous  position.  If,  how 
('\-('r,  n(j  iutinjiit  ion  sliouM  he  founil  (jf  oui'  !i;ivin,L!,  l)('(-n  tlicrc, 
it  ni;iy  ut  (nice  !)('  surnii-cd  that  sonic  fatal  catastroi)h('  lias 
ha])|)('n('(l.  cither  j'rcjiii  oui'  hein^u;  carried  ijito  the  Polar  Sea, 
or  smashed  in  Jjarrow's  Strait,  and  no  survi\'ors  left.  Jf  such 
he  the  case,  —  which,  h(jwe\'er,  I  will  not  anticipate, --- it 
A\'ill  then  Ix.'  (luite  unnecessary  to  j)enetrate  fuither  to  the 
westward  for  our  relic!',  as.  Itv  the  jjeriod  that  an\'  ve>-el 
could  reach  that  i)ort,  we  must,  from  want  of  prcn'ision-,  all 
liave  ])('rished.  In  such  a  case,  I  would  submit  that  the 
ofhceis  may  he  dii'ecie(l  to  return,  and  l)\'  no  means  incur  tii(3 
daiui^'r  of  lo-in^  other  li\'es  in  (luest  of  tho-e  who  will  then 
be  no  more.'' 

The  thrillin,u'  advent ui'cs  in  the  American  wilderness  told 
by  I'h'anklin,  Richardson.  P^ack,  and  others.  for(-lold  that  this 
sledu'e  journey  ])ro])o>ed  Ity  APC  lure  would  be  \r,\\z  and 
hazardous  in  the  extreme,  ddie  weakci'  one-  wei'e  to  under- 
take it,  thirty  of  the  healthiest  men  bein.i^'  i-etained  lo  >tand 
b\'  th("  ships   with   the  captain. 

Idle  cur.-e  of  scur\'y  had  lonii:  since  stfickcii  many  of  the 
crew:  the-e  could  not  hope  to  bra\'(-  anoliiei'  Arel  ic  wint  er, 
and  their  only  chance  was  to  penetrate  the  wiMerne--  lo 
ci\-iliza1  ion.  howex'cr  diflicailt  and.  danucri»us  the  imdert afiiitH'. 
P)Ul  while  Ar( 'hu'c  and  hi-  uallani  enmrades  were  mal^in'j; 
e\'ery  [)reparation  for  thi-  la.-'  at'euipt  lo  communieale 
with    luiLiia.nd,  relief  came  unex])ecledl\'  \o  hand. 

It  will  be  I'cmeniberf'd.  th.at  ('aptain  I\e||ctl  of  Sir  Ivlward 
I'.eleher'-  -(|Ua<l|-!)n  h.ad  s.iijcl  the  pre\aoiis  Vuu'U-t  to  Mel- 
\-ille  l-l;md  wiih  reliei'  sujiplics  foi'  the  I  iin  .-<!  nji  ih  ,r  and  ./: ," 
1 1  r  jir'i.i  .  in  ea-e  l  !ic-c  \-e-scl-:  or  nieml  icr-  of  t  heir  ei'ew-  -honld 
i:a\-e  -'lerccilcd  ill  mckim':  tlieir  wa\'  from  I>ehr;nii'  Sti'ail 
li)  that  jijaec.  I '}  )on  reae!  linu' W'inl  er  I  Iarl)our,  1  !;ey  at  onee 
di-i'o\'eri  d  a  iinlicc  depo-ilcd  th''re  ilie  I  iciiiu  U  i  nu'  oi'  the 
\<:\V    b\-    ('antain    .M'tliU'e.    eon\"e\-i!m    the    a-.-Uf.ance    ol'    the 


CA P TA ly  KE L L K TT  1  (J 7 

safety  of  tlio  Invcsliydtor  and  its  crow  in  Mercy  Bay.  It  may 
1)(^  iina52,inc(l  with  what  enthusiasm  such  news  was  rc^ceived 
i)y  Captain  JveUett  and  liis  crew,  and  innne(liat(4y  pn^para- 
tions  w(M'e  made  for  an  expedition  to  let  thcnn  know  that  aid 
was  at  hand. 

The  uniciue  me(>tin,<2;  of  Captain  M'Clure  from  the  west, 
and  J.ieut(Miant  I'im  from  th(^  east,  A\ith  a  ])arty  from  \hv. 
licsolutcj  is  ,t>,-rai)hically  described  in  a  i)rivate  letter  from 
C'a])tain  Ivellett. 

"This  is  really  a  ]-ed-lett(n-  da>'  in  our  voyag(\,  and  shall 
be  kept  as  a  holiday  ])y  our  heirs  and  successors  forev(M'. 
At  nine  o'clock  of  this  day,  our  lookout  man  madc^  thc^  signal 
for  a  l)arty  coniin<i  in  from  the  westward;  all  went  out  to 
UKM't  tlu>m,  and  assist  tlunn  in.  A  second  party  was  then 
seen.  Dr.  DomvilU^  was  tht^  lii'st  jicM'son  I  met.  I  cannot 
describe^  my  hH'iiniii's  when  he  told  mt^  that  C;i])tain  Al'Clun! 
was  ainonj;-  the  n(\\t  i)art\'.  I  was  not  lon<2;  in  reachin<2;  liim, 
and  si'iviu.a;  him  many  h(>arty  shak(\s  -  no  purcM"  W(a'(^  vvvv 
^•i'.'cn  by  two  men  in  tlils  woi'ld.  AT'Chu'e  looks  weh,  I)ut 
is  \-(M'y  huu_i;'ry.  ITis  (lesci'i])tion  of  Tim's  maldng  t\\v  Ilar- 
l)our  of  Mcrey  would  h.ave  ])ocn  :i  fiue  subject  for  the  pen  of 
(';iptain    Marryat,   wei'(>  he  aliv(\ 

"ArChu't^  and  his  lii-si  heutenant  wnv  w;).lkin<i'  on  the 
floe.  SeiTi!,!;'  a  person  coining  yvry  fast  towai'ds  them,  tlu'v 
su])pos(Mi  lio  was  eh.ased  by  a  bear,  or  liad  seen  a  beai".  AA'alk- 
luix  towards  hini,  on  .u'cttin.ti'  onwards  a  hundi'ed  yards,  th.(\v 
could  see  from  his  ])r()])or1  ions  that  he  was  not  one  of  them. 
I'im  l)(\u-an  to  sereecli  and  throw  u])  his  hands  (liis  fac(>  as  bhick 
;is  my  hat  i  ;  this  brou,iiht  the  ca])taiii  and  Heutcaiant  to  a 
stantb  as  they  could  not  hear  sufficiently  to  make  out  his 
Ian, una  lie. 

'"At  lenulli  I'iin  reached  the  ])art>',  quib'  b(\side  himself, 
and  stammered  out,  on  M'('lure  asking'  hitn, — 

"'Wlio  are  vou,  and  where  are  vou  come  from?' 


it;,s 


Tin:  (;i;i:at  wihtk  yoirni 


''■Lieutenant    Pini,   IhrahL   ( 'aptain    Kellett.' 

"'riii<  was  the  more  inex])lieal)le  to  MX 'lure,  ;is  T  was  tlio 
last  ])erson  he  >hook  haml-  with  in  Fichrinji's  Strait,  lie  at 
len,u,tli  found  that  tliis  solitar}'  st  ranjicr  was  a  true  l-ji^i^lisli- 
nian  -  -  an  an,u('l  of  liii'ht.  lie  says  :  '\lv  soon  was  seen  from 
the  shi])  :  they  had  only  one  hatrhway  ojjen,  and  the  crew 
wei'e  fairly  januned  there,  in  their  enalea\"oi'  to  ,uct  U]).  The 
sick  jum])ed  out  (.)f  their  hammocks,  and  the  vww  foi'ji'ot 
their  de<])ondenc}'  :  in  fact,  all  was  chan.ii'ed  on  hoard  tlie 
////7  stiiidfor.' 

'"MX 'lure  !iad  thii'ty  men  antl  three  officers  full>'  ])re- 
])ai'e<l  to  lea\'e  I'or  the  de])ot  at  Point  Si)encer.  What  a  dis- 
appointment it  would  \m\c  lieen  to  u'o  thei'c  and  find  the 
mi-erahle  Mnrij  yacht,  with  t'om-  oi'  fi\'e  ca.-k-  of  proxd- 
sions.  instead  of  a  fine  lai'<i('  dejxtt  ! 

"Anothei'  ])arty  of  se\-en  men  were  to  ha\'e  U'one  l)y  the 
Mackenzie,  with  a  i-e(iue-t  to  the  Admii'alty  to  -end  out  a  -hip 
to  meet  them  at  Point  Leopold,  in  1^.11.  'V\\r  thirty  men 
ai'e  on  their  way  o\'ei'  to  me  now.  1  -hall,  if  i)o<-ilile,  -end 
tlieni  on  to  P)i'ec}iey  Ll.aiid.  and  ahout  ten  men  of  my  own 
vvrw.  to  lie  taken  home  the  fir-t   o[)j)o!'l  unit  y." 

('aptain  Lcllctt  wa-  at  fii'-t  iiic!in<'d  io  fa\'our  M'('lui'e"s 
effort-  to  -a\'e  the  ////v  .-,'/'f/^//n/'.  I  mt ,  on  t!ii'  2d  of  Ma\'.  Lieu- 
teiKint  ( 're--well  I'epoi't ed  to  ('aptaiu  Kellett  that  two  niol'e 
di'ath-  had  occurred.  It  w;i-  then  deemed  ad\a-:d)le  thai 
Dr.  I)om\'!lle  -hould  u'o  liacix  with  ('aptain  .M'l'hii'c  and 
iu-p<  ci  the  crew.  Tlio-e  unfitted  to  pa<.-  anothei'  vrinter 
in  the  Arct  ic  \\-crc  t  (»  he  orders  I  home,  and  the  he;ilt  hy  -nould 
lie  liix'en  iheir  optiiiii  <il'  Lioiiiii'  o|-  I'eniaiiiiic^'.  Huly  tuu!'  uf 
the  cr('\\  wdv  wiHiiiii'  to  I'eniain.  althoUL!.ii  all  oi  the  ofiicers 
\-nhml-i  red    iM   -land   hy   I  he   \-c--c|. 

I'rcoararK  i!i-  wciv  l  In  Telmv  made  to  ;ili;indMn  ihe  -hip.  A 
dep.it  111'  piM\-i~i,iM-  and  -t.uv-  wa-  landed  fm'  l!ie  ii-e  of 
'  'el!in-i  'ii,  Li-,aMkli:i,  ( ir  any  ot  hei'  pi'i'-nn  that  niiuht  find  I  hem, 


JJEA'III    OF  BKLL<)i  l(iO 

and  on  June  '.I,  ISoo,  the  colours  were  lioistcd  to  the  masthead, 
and  officers  and  crew  bade  fareweU  to  tlie  Iiivcdujatirr.  Upon 
arriving  at  Dealy  Island,  they  were  accommodated  on  board 
the  Ilcsolute  and  Intrepid 

In  connection  with  the  glorious  report  of  the  discovery 
of  the  Xorthwest  Passage  and  the  safety  of  Al'Clure,  Captain 
Inglefield  brought  home  news  of  a  sad  and  tragic  character; 
the  deatli  of  tliat  gallant  Frenchman,  Lieutenant  Bellot.  He 
had  r(>turn(Ml  to  the  north  in  the  Phxnix  drawn  by  the  fatal 
lur(>  of  the  Arctic  which  to  liis  adventurous  soul  was  irre- 
sistible. In  August,  1803,  he  had  volunteered  to  lead  a  party 
to  Sir  Edward  Belchcn-'s  squadron  near  Cape  Beecher  in 
A\'ellingto!i  ( 'hannel.  They  started  on  a  Friday,  the  12th, 
from  ]^e(-chey  Island,  —  Harvey,  .Jolmson,  Aladden,  and  Hook, 
with  Lieutenant  Bellot  in  the  lead,  —  carrying  despatch(\s  from 
Ca])tain  Pullen  (jf  tlie  Xorfh  Star. 

The  rottenness  of  the  ice  at  this  season  makes  travel  ]iar- 
ticularly  dangercjus,  and  Bellot  was  cauticjned  to  keep  close  to 
the  eastern  slujre  of  ^\'ellington  Cliannel.  Th(>y  were  ])i'(j- 
vid(Ml  with  a  light  Lidia-rublx'r  boat,  which  was  easil}' 
dragge(l  iip(jn  tlie  sledge.  The  evening  of  the  12th.  they 
encamped  aliout  thi'ee  miles  from  Cai)e  Inn(\-.  The  follow- 
ing day  thc\'  made  considerable  ])rogress,  and  that  niuht 
encam])ed  u])on  t  he  bi'oken  ice,  over  which  they  had'])een  ])lod- 
diiig  all  day,  near  Cajx'  ]^)Owden.  On  Sunday  they  noticetl 
a  crack  al)out  four  feet  wide  rumiing  across  the  channel.  Xo 
>])ecial  concern  was  felt  at  this  di-covery,  and  LieuTenant 
Jiellot  clie(>i'e(l  and  enc()urage(l  the  men  to  make  foi-  a  ca]>e  in 
the  di-tanc(>  which  he  calleil  Criimell  Capo.  J'pon  i'(>aching 
tliis  (■;{])(',  a  bi'oad  belt  of  water  was  found  between  t  he  ic(^  and 
the  >liore.  An  unfortunate  wind  I'aised  a  I'ough  sea.  but 
Lieutenant  l')ellot  made  an  attem])1  to  rearh  the  <h()re  alone 
HI  the  bo;it ,  intendinu'  to  co!i\-ey  a.  line  by  which  th.e  re- 
mainder of  th(>  ])arty  and  pr()\'isions  might  be  luHjught  across. 


170  THE   GREAT    WJIFIE  yORTII 

The  \-i(j!('ncc  of  the  ,<i':ilc  di'ovc  liiin  buck,  and  Harvoy  unci 
Araddcii  were  ordered  into  the  hoal,  and  succcssi'uUy  niad(; 
the  (•i-o>>in,i!;.  Alter  tliis  the  h(_)at  ^\'as  ])assed  and  I'epassed 
by  means  of  hnes,  and  three  h^ads  from  the  .^led^-e  wei'e  huidtnl 
in  <ah't\'.  ddie  ])ai1y  on  shore  were  h;inhn,u,-  off  for  a  fonrth 
when  .Madden,  who  had  hold  of  the  stu^re-line  and  stood  n])  to 
hi-  middle  in  walei',  called  out  that  the  ice  was  on  the  n)o\-e, 
and  dri\'in,u'  olf>hore. 

Ijellot  >aw  thai  if  Madden  held  on  to  the  line  much  lon.iier 
he  would  be  dra,u;uc(l  inio  d<'e!)  water,  >o  he  called  to  him  to  let 
<io,  which  he  did.  Jdeul'-naiit  l>ellol  and  his  two  men  then 
hauled  the  b(jat  on  to  the  sled,L;'e  and  ran  it  uj)  to  tiie  wind- 
ward side  (,f  t!ie  ice,  inteu'liuL;,'  lo  launch  it  at  once  and  make 
for  the  siiore.  Mel'ort'  this  could  be  accomplished,  the  ic(! 
liad  ra,])id!\'  inci'cased  its  motion  and  drifle(l  so  hir  fi'om  the 
shoi'c  as  to  make  ii  impossible  for  them  lo  reach  it.  Madden 
and  HaiA'ey,  with  in<le>cril  lable  feeliiriis-  o!'  alarm,  hasiene(l 
lo  an  eminence,  a.nd  foi'  two  lonu;  houi's  ^va1ched  their  com- 
i'ade<  (h'il'!!n,2,'  out  to  sea  in  the  teeth  of  a  biller  bi-eeze  - -- 
amid  the  tui'bulent  ic(-!  (efo'-;.  As  the  mi-t<  and  dri\-in,u'  snow 
filially  clo-^cd  upon  their  \ie\,\-.  ihe  two  men  were  seen  stmid- 
inu'  by  I  h:'  -ledu'e,  Lieutenant   1  >elIot  on  1 1 H'  top  of  a  h  una  nock. 

Ab'iddi'ii  and  Harx'ey  de<cend(>(l  lo  the  <hore  and  ;it  once 
be^an  their  retui'ii  journey  to  th(-  >hlp.  With  \-ery  litile  pi'o- 
\M-!t>!i-~.  thcv""  wa!k''d  I'Miuid  (  "i-ilfeii  I^ax'  and  hence  tn  ('ape 
Viowden.  Wiiere  lliey  I'eniained  to  i'e>l .  W'iiile  thei'<',  a'l'cat 
wa-  their  joy  lo  I'ecoii'ii/e  .lolm-ou  and  flook  ha-' enitrti' 
tuwai'd  ihem.  "The  pa  rp\'  now  made  l'oi-  the  -hio.  which 
t'>iv  |-iacl:cd  wilii  con-idei'a  I  >!<  ■  difiicull\-  and  pi'i\'al  ii  hi.  The 
faO'  III'  pocr  bieiiO'nan!  r>e!lol  i-  de-cribed  by  William  .h)hn- 
-!>!:,   who  wa  '■  \\l;h   hiia  on   the  ice  al    the  lime  of  hi-  death. 

■'Wi'  ':m1  !;:i'  ia'o\-;-i,in-  imi  -hor:'  on  Wedne-dax'.  the  17lh. 
.\fti'r  \\.'  had  d(.ni'  thaP  ih'^rr  remained  on  the  ice  l)a\'id 
llook,    LieuienanI    nello!,    ami   myself,    lia\inu;   with   tis   the 


BE  AT  If   OF  BELLOT  171 

,sle(lt;'o,  mackintosh  awiiiu.o;,  and  little  boat.  Coiumeneed 
tiying  to  (lr;i\v  the  l)oat  and  slcdj^c  to  the  southward,  but 
found  tlir  ice  (hivinji;  so  IVist,  that  we  lel't  the  sbnlge  and  took 
the  boat  onh' ;  but  tlie  wind  was  so  strong  at  the  time  that  it 
bknv  the  l)oat  over  and  over.  A\'e  then  took  the  i)oat  with 
us,  under  sh(4ter  of  a  pierce  of  ice,  and  "S\\\  l^ehol  and  oui'selvc^s 
coi]imence(l  cutting  an  ice-house  with  our  kirives  foi-  sheher. 
Mr.  Hehot  sat  i'or  half  an  hour  in  convca'sation  with  us.  talk- 
ing on  tlu^  d;mger  of  our  }X)siti(jn.  1  told  him  I  was  not 
afraid  and  that  the  American  ]-]x))edition  M'as  di'iven  U])  and 
down  this  chamiel  by  the  ic(\  He  n^plied,  '1  know  th(\v 
were-  ;  and  when  the  Lord  ])rot(Hds  us,  .not  :i  hair  of  our 
heads  sludl  b(^  touched.'  1  then  aslan!  Mi'.  ]-5<'llot  what  time 
it  was.  lie  said,  'Alxmt  a  (juarler  ])ast  (S  a.m.'  (Thursday, 
the  18th),  and  then  lasl.'ed  his  hooks,  and  said  he  would  go 
and  see  liow  th(>  ice  Wcis  di'iving.  lie  had  only  b(>eii  gone 
about  four  nhnutes,  Avlien  1  wiait  roujid  the  same  hummock, 
undei'  \\'hicli  we  were  sliellei'ed  to  look  for  him,  but  could  not 
see  him  :  and  on  r(/tui-fhng  to  our  shelt(>r,  saw  his  slick  on  th(> 
oiil)o<it(^  side  of  a  crack,  about  five  fathonns  \vid(\  and  the 
ic'  all  breakiuji'  uj).  \  tl'.en  cisUe*!  ont,  'MV.  llellot,'  but  no 
answ(a'  i:d  1  his  time  blowing  v(My  hea\-y).  After  this  ]  again 
searched  I'ound,  but  could  sec  notliiiig  of  hiiu.  I  b(ilev(^ 
wIk-u  he  uol  from  tlie  <lielte!'.  the  \\'iiid  bhcw  him  into  the 
(a':ick.  and  his  souih-weslei'  being  tied  down,  he  could  not 
I'ise.  l-'inding  thei'e  w;is  no  lio]x>  oi'  again  seeing  Ijcuteiumt 
T'ellot,  T  said  to  ITook,  'Tin  not  ab'aid  :  1  know  th(>  Lord 
will  always  sustain  u-^.'  W'r  commenced  trjiX'elling.  to  try 
to  get  to  Cajx^  'le  TL)ven,  oi'  Poi't  Phillips;  cnil.  when  we 
got  wiihin  two  nnlcs  of  ('ape  de  T[;ivtai.  could  noi  get  on 
shore,  and  retm'ned  fos'  this  sid(\  endeavoi'ing  to  jiel  io  \\\v 
soutlnvard,  :is  the  ice  was  dri\'ing  to  the  nortliward.  ^\  e 
wes'e  th;it  ihght  and  the  followinu'  d;!>'  in  coiuiim'  ;!Ci'o--.  ;md 
came  into  the   land  on  the  eastern  shore,  a  long  way  to  tlu^ 


17:.' 


THE   CHEAT    WHITE    XOIlTH 


iioi't  hw'ard  of  t  lie  ])\nrc  where  we  were  (h'iveii  off.      A\'e  <i'r)t  into 
the  land  at    what    iJeuteiiant    l^ellot    loM   us   was   Point    IIo- 

.ii'arth. 

"In  (lriftin,si'  u])  the  Straits  towards  the  Pohir  Sea  we 
saw  an  ieeheru'  l\'in;i,'  (•lo>e  to  the  shore,  and  found  it  on  the 
ground.  We  .-ucceeiled  in  ^cttiiiLi'  on  it  and  remained  for 
six  hours.  I  .-aid  to  I)a\'id  Hook.  "Don't  lie  afraid,  we  inu>t 
make  a  lioat  of  a  piece  of  ire.'  Aecor(Hnul}',  we  uot  on  to  a 
piece  ])a»in.ir,  and  I  ha<l  a  ])addle  oeloniiin.L!,'  to  tlie  India- 
ruliher  ooa.t.  B\'  tlii>  ])iece  of  (h'ifl  ic('  we  mariaiied  to 
reach  tlie  slioi'e.  and  tlien  ])roceeded  to  where  tlie  accid.ent 
ha])])('nedi.  Pleached  it  on  Fri(hiy.  ( 'ould  not  find  our  shi])- 
mate>,  (jr  any  i)i'o\'isions.  \\  ent  on  for  ('a])e  Bowden, 
and  reache(l  it  on  I-"riday  ni^'ht." 

P<jor  I-)ellot  -  -  loo  l)ra\'e  -  too  younu'  to  die  —  !)e]o\"ed 
hy  conu'ades.  moui'ne(l  hy  the  -im])le  lv-l;imos  he  had 
liefriended  —  cheri-hed  in  tender  memory ')y  the  nation  that 
<i'a\'e  liim  hirth  and  1»\'  (Ireat  P)i'itain  foi'  wliom  lie  oa\'e  his 
life,-  lii<  hoiioureij  name  i-  linke(l  in  immorl  alit  \' wit  h  tho-e 
l)ra\'e  h(-roe-  of  the  Arctic,  wlio-e  -epulchri  •  i-  'he  fr<i/''n 
deep,  \\-ho-e  monuments  are  the  eternal  .-now-  of  the  (o'eat 
White  North. 


^^    '1,' 


V 


y^ 


173 


ClIAPTKR    X 


Slcd^'iiiii-  pjirtirs  of  Sir  lulwai'd  Px'lclicf's  scjuadroii.  —  Dcsci'tiou 
ut'  tlir  ,-!iip>.  -i;ciurii  to  i-Jiti'iand.  -Slory  of  tlu.'  I\v.-«ilii(i\  — 
Trari- (if  Sir  .hilni  franklin  discoN'crcd  by  1  )i'.  liac.  —  Andi-rson's 
joiii'Hcy.  "  Tlh'  \'oya'i,'i'  of  liic  /■'",('  uiidri'  ( 'oiniiiaiidci'  Al'diii- 
tock.  -  Siciiiio  jounicy.-.  liccordand  rciic.-^  of  Iraukliu's  i'X})t'tii- 
tioii.     'I'lix  n  tarns  lo  liiii^'Iand. 

Tin:  slodm'  parties  sctil  out  hy  .Sir  F.ihviird  Iiolchor's 
s(itia(li'()ii,  tli()tii;]i  t\tii!ic!'<)tis  and  oxtoudod,  had  siicc('('d(Ml  in 
fiuditiij,'  i>()  truco  of  I'l'atdditi  or  his  ci'cw's  :  thus  tho  winter 
of  IS.").;  IS.U  i):i--e(h  ddie  follow'iti;;-  April,  l/ictitei>a!it  Ale- 
chaiti  fouiid  ill  l/'riiire  of  \\  aie>  Strait  antl,  lat(a"o!i,  IJaiiisay 
Niamh  ivcords  hearing  the  (hde  of  Aumi>l  27.  Is,")2,  _ii;i\-iii,t2; 
fill!  i'ileiliu':'aice  of  ('aplaiii  ( '(i!ii!i~-oii,  .-i!if(>  his  '-e])arat  ion 
iwnw  !!,(■  I ,.r,  yl'ijiih.r.  \\\  that  ( 'olliii-nn  ].;ne\v  of  the  jio-i- 
tion  of  M't  dure  af;-:-!'  partinu-  -with  iiiin  in  Is.")')  in  I  h,e  Pacific 
()c(-an,  \\'as  a  repoj't  I'roin  \\\v  I'lnrir  tlcit  t!ie  f ///■(■-^f/fidlar 
had    Ix'cM   -een,   -tec-iici'   noi'ilnvard,   olf   WdiiiP.vriiiiit    Pilot. 

d'o  \'eri!'\'  i-ertnin  ri:inoe,r>  cotuiectcdl  \\-ith  Phis  report,  ("ai)- 
Pain  ('o!i;!i-o!i  oi'dcn-d  .•  yoMi'U'  olhcia",  Pictilcnaiit  Pariiaffi, 
and  ('(  riain  iiiCMiiici'-  of  the  crrw  to  land  at  ;i  Ru.— i.aii  settle- 
ni'ait  ill  iiort  Irw'i'-;  America,  dda'  re>u]t  was  a  :-a<l  t  rauvd\'; 
h'  'laiard  wa-  hru'allx'  tiiurdfa'ed  hy  Pidians  m  P(Pniar\', 
l'^")!,  .ii   a  po-!   call"'!   IPir.dhiii.  n'air  Xoi'toii  Sound. 

IP-  tia'  li^i  of  -Pi!y,  ]■-:,].  C.jJiiiM.n  had  rounded  i'oint 
'P:a-M-,\a  ;!ud  iiae  -locrcd  up  Princ  of  W'alc^  Mrait.  On 
Pi'ini-i'--:  ijoyiij  !~ha.d,  k"  di~"o\a'rod  a  dcpo;  (kpo-iicd  !  )y 
A! '(  'ku'''  a  lid  a  CM!!  a  '  1  lu;  ali:iiiLi:  iid'i  iianai  io!i  of  1  h(  /'■/'(  ^^//;/^;/f)/'".s 
lia  c,  .  ;;ii''U -.  ap  ;a;P!  .kai.'  {'].  I  a."  P  ^'unin-oii  proc-njod  ill 
c\;;r:l;.    :hi-  coia--!^   lak'ai    !  ^y  P  ■■    '  mi  si  ■ij,itni\  and   to  hi-  >in-- 

IVl 


CAPTAIX    COTAAXSON  1  t  o 

])i'isf^  found  at  C'a])('  Kcllctt,  on  Scptoiuber  3,  another  record 
of  AlX'iurc^  placed  there  on  Au,i;-ust   IS. 

("olUns(_)n  now  found  it  necessary  t(j  seek  winter  (juarters. 
The.--e  li(>  secured  toward  thc^  eastern  .--ide  of  tiie  entrance  to 
Princ(>  of  Wales  Strait. 

As  conditions  would  allow,  he  ]itu'sued  his  explorations  in 
tlie  vicinity  of  Barilvs  Land,  Albert  Land,  Wollaston  Land, 
and  N'ictoria  Land,  ii'aining  nuich  valuable  <i;e()_u-ra])hical  in- 
h)rniation,  but  no  trace  of  Franklin,  excej^t  for  the  findin^ti;  in 
the  po-ses>ion  of  the  Eskimos  a  ])iece  of  an  iron  doorway  or 
hatch  frame  which  misiht  have  Ix^lontixnl  to  the  j'^ rebus  or 
Tifi'dr.  This  was  found  at  C'amliri'lue  Bay,  in  ^\'ollaston 
Land,  whei'e  Collinsou  wintca'ed  in   LSr)2-bS.")3. 

CoUinson's  sl(-d,u<'  parties  exiploi'cd  the  v\'est  sid(>  of  \'ic- 
toria  Strait,  but,  owinp;  to  lack  of  coal.  ('a})tain  ( 'ollinson 
decided  not  to  try  to  force  a  ]iassa,o;(>  throup;h  tlie  channel, 
but  to  retru'n  the  way  he  had  com(\  lie  did  not  <i('t  round 
Jjarrow  Point.  ]io\\'ever,  withotit  pas>ing  a  third  ^\•inter  in 
t!;e  northern  coast  of  America. 

T!n'  b('-i  ])arl  of  the  summer  of  A'^'i.]  was  ]~)assed  l)y  the 
h'lsnlifv  and  Ihfrcpifl  with  tiieir  crews  and  that  of  the  I/u-rs- 
t''j'!t"r  sliut  u])  in  the  ice  at  Dealy  I-land.  I'A'ei'y  ]M'cj);;rati(.)n 
was  mad','  to  advance  ;it  a  moment's  notice  >hould  the  ice 
favour  the  ()i)])ortunity.  arcd  ar  hi-t.  on  the  bSth  of  .Vuii'U-t, 
tliey  u'ot  uu'ler  way,  a  stron,u'  pile  fi'om  olTshore  ha\'in,u,'  di— 
i'Ui)turr-d  the  ice. 

TTm'dly  were  ofhc(>rs  and  men  couu'r*jduiatin,<i'  tliem- 
selves  that  at  la>t  they  wer(>  homeA\'ai'd  bounju  wiien  they 
were  ari'ested  liy  tl;e  ]);ic]>;  olT  ]^)yam  McJ'lin  f 'laiiuicl,  wiici'e 
they  lay,  unaKile  1o  make  PKilliur-t  F-hmd  nud  tiaiic;'  to 
l)eech('y  Pland.  Winter  was  ad\'anciri'i':  ti:''  -it-.-it ic'U  v,';.- 
(Ii>}ie;u1eni!m':  d;iy  after  d.a\'  iia--eil  without  tlu'  -pi'o-prct  of 
e.<ca])e.  The  m(ai  occujtjed  themsel\-e<  wilh  >ecurirm'  u;ime. 
again>t  the  possil)le  detention  of  the  shi])s  for  anotlier  titoomy 


17<;  THE    (rUEAT     WHITE    XO/rTIf 

winter.  Ten  tliousaiid  jtound-  (jf  iiiciit.  ])i-iiK'i])ally  niu-k- 
ox,  \vu<  ohtaiiicd  ami  frozen.  B}'  the  Dili  oi  SepT(-nil)(i', 
newh'  formed  ice  >urr(jun(le<l  them  in  sueh  (juantities  tliat 
they  were  fairly  beset  and  (h'ifted  at  the  mei'cy  (^f  tiie  ])aek 
initil  the  12th  of  X(n'emher,  when,  to  the  joy  of  all.  the  shi])- 
were  a.t  re>t  at  a  ])oint  due  east  of  A\"iiitei"  Hai'hor.  Mehille 
I-land.  in  hjuuitude  KJl"  ^^'.  Here  the  lowj:  winter  nunitli- 
]")asse(l  <lowly  hy,  with  no  greater  casualty  than  the  <leat}i  of 
(jrie  officer,  and  the  s])rin(i'  (jf  LS.jd  found  Captain  Keilett 
])lamiin<i'  to  continue  tlie  search,  while  AIX  dure  and  his  crew 
de])arted  A])ril   14.  with  sle<loes,   for  Beechey  I>land. 

A\diile  enirau'cd  in  ])reparati(jns  for  his  ]")ro])o<e(l  sledu'e 
journe\'>,  ('a])tain  Keilett  received  a  communication  from 
Sir  Edward  I^elcher,  admiral  of  the  s(juadron,  su.u'^'estiny; 
that  rather  than  run  the  risk  of  ]")a>>in(i'  an(jther  winter  in  the 
Arctic,  he  -hould  abandcjn  his  shi])s  and  meet  Sir  Ivlward 
at  I)eeche\'  on  or  hefijre  August  2l).  To  thi<  ( 'a])tain  K('l]ett 
remonstrated,  -tating  that  hi>  shi])>  wei-e  in  a  lax'ourahle 
>ituation  for  esca])e.  that  the  health  of  the  crew  wa<  exc(-l- 
l(-nt.  a.nd  they  had  ])ro\'isions  in  ])lenty.  and  that  tho>e  con- 
cerne(l  in  de.-erting  >hi])s  under  >U(Ti  circumstance.-  "would 
de-.er\-e  to  ha\-e  the  jackets  tak'cn  off  tlieir  ha'-k-."  I'o  lhi< 
>tronii,  a])pe;d  came  ])o>iti\'e  orders  iar  the  akandi  inment  of 
t  he  -!ii])-. 

Acting  under  the>e  o!'(lei'<.  ('a])tain  Keilett  reluctantiy 
])repar.-(l  to  d.e-ert  the  li'fsnliiti  and  IntrtjiiiL  lioth  >hip- 
were  -lored  A\'ith  ])ro\"i-ion-.  tlie  engines  ot  t!;e  f/'fri/inl  ])i;i 
in  ~uch  uood  oi'der  that  >he  could  he  got  und'^r  .-team  in  two 
hoiH',-,  the  hatche-  c;dk(-(l  (low"!!,  and  notice-  ])la.ced  at  |)!'(i])er 
[loiiii-  for  t!ie  guidance  of  two  -leiluini!:  ])arlie-  th;it  Wi-re 
aw;!\^  t'l'om  the  -hi])-  at  thi-  time.  (  )m  the  l-ltli  o!  .May, 
Js.Vi.  the  c;i])iain  and  crew  -;iid  farewell  to  their  tru-1\"  cr;ifl- 
;Uid   -I.'U-ted.    wit  !i  -Ifd^c-,  for    liecchry    I-land,    wiiefv    .M'<'iui-c 

and  lii-  men  were  t:reatl\-  -urpri-dl  k\    tlieir  arriwal. 


CAPTAIX    IIKLIIIKR  177 

Sitico  Sir  Edward  B(4('!hm'  liad  ])art(Ml  with  Captain  Kcilctt 
August  14,  lSr)2,  ])artics  from  \\\v  Assistd/icc  and  Pi<)ii(( r 
had  IxH'u  (HHpjcntl}'  ('X])l()rin<2;  AW'niiigtou  ("lianncl.  IIa\iu,i;' 
anchored  iK^ar  Cape  I^ecchcr,  in  latitude  7(j^  02'  and  longi- 
tude 37°  W.,  l)oat  and  sledge^  expeditions  wer(^  sent  north- 
ward as  early  as  th(>  23d  of  August.  On  th(>  25th  remains  of 
s;>'\'(a-al  well-built  Eskimo  houses  were  discovered,  of  which, 
says  Captain  I-Jelcher  :  — 

"The}'  wvvc  not  simi)ly  circles  of  small  ston(>s.  ])ut  two 
lines  of  well-laid  wall  in  (\xca\'ated  gr(.)unds,  [ilknl  in  bc^tween 
1)\'  about  two  feet  of  fine  gi'avel,  well  pav(^d,  and,  withal, 
presenting  the  appearance  of  grt^at  care  —  more,  indeed, 
than  I  am  willing  to  attiibute  to  tlu>  rude  inhabitants  of  mi- 
gratory I'^skimos.  Bones  of  dvcv,  wolves,  seals,  etc.,  were 
numerous,  and  coal  was  found." 

Xew  lands  discoverecl  were  given  th(>  names  of  North 
Cornwall,  Mctoria  Archipelago,  and  to  an  island  of  this 
grou])  foi'ining  a  channel  to  the  Polar  Sea  was  gi\'(>n  the  name 
of  Xorth  Kent. 

Other  sledging  ])arties  intende<l  foi'  tlu^  searcli  of  the  north- 
east section  left  the  ship  Alay  2.  IS.").'],  and  soon  reached  the 
limit  (jf  tile!!'  <lisco\'eries  the  ])re\a(>us  year. 

Belcher  I'eaclied  Cap(^  Disi'aeh.  an  elevation  of  six  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  above  the  sea,  and  later  made  his  way  to  tlie 
entranc(>  of  , Jones  ( 'haimeh  wheic  lie  had  an  extended  view 
of  succe>,-i\-e  b,(>etling  hendlaiids  on  eithei'  side  of  the  channel. 
Th(^  rouglmess  of  the  I'rozen  ])ack  com])elled  the  })arty  to  take 
to  the  land,  but  ]>r()gi'(>ss  was  again  im])eded  by  an  abi'U])t 
glacier.  Oi  hei'  attempts  to  cont  inu(>  the  land  joumc}'  p!'o\'ed 
futile,  and  by  the  2Uth  of  May  the  party  could  advance  mo 
fa  11  her. 

Of  the  retui'u  journey  T^elcher  wi'ites  :  — 

"Our  progress  was  tantalizing  and  attended  v.'ith  de(>]) 
intere>t   and  excitement.      In  the  first  plaee.  T  discovered,  liii 


17^ 


THE  GJiJ-:.\T   wiiriE  xoirrif 


the  brow  of  a  niounlain  aliout  oiulit  liiuulrt'il  feet  aljovc  tlie 
Sf-a.  what  a])i)('ai'('il  lo  he  a  rc^cciil  anil  a  vcr\'  workiuanlikf' 
.-structure.  I'liis  ^va^  a  donic. --  or  i'atli('i\  a  do'iidc  cone. 
(.)r  ic''-!!OU>('.  —  liiiill  of  \  ci'V  l!ca\'y  and  lubulai'  .-la'')-,  whir-li 
iKj  .-inu'lc  ])fi'>on  {'(iiild  carry.  It  con-i.-tcd  of  al.oiit  foily 
(•our.-(-s,  (■i,iilit  f('('t  in  dianu'tci',  and  ci.ulil  itcX  in  dc]}ili.  v/tK^n 
(dcarcd.  hut  only  fi\"c  in  l!ci<i.'ht  from  tlic  ha-c  of  the  u|;|)('r  cone 
as  w(-  ojX'nfMl  it. 

"Alo-t  cai'cfully  Was  every  stone  reniovc'd.  (-very  atom  of 
]]io>-  (ti-  earth  .-crutinized  :  the  .-tone-  at  ihe  Ixjttwin  al.-o  takf'ii 
up  :  h'Ui  wit  hout  finding'  a  t  raee  of  any  ri 'eord.  or  of  1  he  stnic- 
ture  ha\"!n,ti  l)een  n.-ed  hy  any  liunian  l-finu:  It  wa>  filledl 
hy  drift  -!io\v.  hut  did  not  in  any  re-pect  hear  tiie  a])])earance 
(m'  h:i.\'inu'  heen  huilt  more  than  a  sea.-on.  Thi.-  wa-  named 
■  Mount   1  )i-ei)\'('ry." '" 

A  littif  later  he  writes  :  — 

'■  J,ea\'inL!.'  our  crew.  ])rctty  AVell  fat i^ii'ued.  to  ])iteh  the  tent 
audi  ])repar('  the  cii-toniary  ])emmican  meal.  I  a-fendidl  tlie 
nii)Un!;i.in  ahove  u-.  and  di-c()\-(i'e(  1  that  we  reall\  W(-rc  not 
far  from  our  old  ])o-i'ion  of  la-t  year,  on  ( 'ajx'  Houurth.  atidi 
hadi  (';ip<'  Majflidic  and  Ilamiiioii  h-lalid  to  tiie  wi-.-l.  ahout 
t  wi'Mty  niifv-. 

"My  -in'p!'i-i'.  howe\-('r.  was  cliecked  .-udidcnly  hy  two 
.-trueiui'i--  ratiu-r  in  liuropeaii  toi'in.  and  a])])ariii!  ly  ura\'i-- : 
(■a'-h  Wa-  -imiiarlx'  eon-t  I'lictt-di  ;  atid.  likf  ihi-  d,,)Mii\  of  larLV 
.-i'l<-ft«-d  -Ich)-.  ha\iim-  at  each  end  three  -epafjti'  -loiii'-.  l;iid 
a-  \^'f  -iionld  pihice  hi-ad  and  foot  -Ioiik-.  .^o  t  iiorou^hl\- 
.-;Ui-fii'd  \ea-  I  ih.ai  there  Wa-  lio  dclu-io;i.  I  de-iu.di  from  di  — 
tMi'diii'^  a   -tune  until  it    -hoiild  he  formali\-dono  h\-!hi-partv 


■■  I  ill-  o\-ciiieM'  hihowiiiL:  -     lo:'  wtK-re  i[;c  -un  !-  -o  o;i];r(-- 

■.■   ti,   t  h,.   cyo-    ;  ry  da\-   We   t  :'a\'('l   hy   niuht    -  -    We  :'-!■( 'lided   t  lie 

h  iind  reM!o\-ei!  the  -tone-.      XmI  a  t  raee  (if  ieini.'Mi  !  -eiim'-  [  " 
A.Mel'   a    -eeoiid    win-ei-      \^r,:]    1 S.",  !      -OeUt    at    the    -,;utheril 


DKSKirnON    OF    THE    SHIPS  179 

lioni  of  Baring  Bay,  Sir  Edward  Bc-lcher  turned  his  entire 
ex(>rtions  to  <i,('tting  his  crews  safely  l)ack  to  Enghuid. 
Tlie  A-^sidcuicc  and  Pioneer  were  released  from  their  winter 
quarters  August  G,  18.14,  and  proceeded  slowly  down  the 
channel.  Tlie  ice  had  brok(>n  up  in  Barrow  .Strait,  and  by 
August  22  the  Hoc  in  Wcdlington  Channel  was  open  for 
fil'teen  miles  noi'th  of  the  strait.  Tlier(^  was  only  a  belt  some 
twenty  milc\'^  in '  extent,  and  this  much  cracked,  remaining 
betv,'(Hni  the  ships  and  the  water  communicating  witli  the 
Atlantic  ()c(^;m.  In  spite  of  these  favourable^  conditions,  Sir 
Edward  Belcher  and  his  crews  d(^serte(l  the  A ■•<■'<{ ■■<ta nee  and 
Pioneer  on  August  26,  18,54,  and  made  their  way  to  the  ])lace 
of  r(Midezvous  at  Beechey  Island. 

The  Xirrfh  Stor  accordingh'  set  sail  with  all  the  officers  and 
men  of  the  Assi4ance,  Pioneer,  Rexohde,  Intrepi'l.  and  Pive-^- 
tinotor.  i)ut  meeting  the  Phanix  and  Talbot,  under  ('a]itain 
Inglefield  (who  had  again  returned  to  tlu^  search),  a  distri- 
bution of  tlu"  crcnvs  was  made  among  the  thriM'  vess(4s,  and 
on  tlie  28th  of  Septeml)er,  1854,  all  were  safely  landed  in 
j'^ngland. 

Tiic  i'e])ort  of  five  ships  deserted  in  tlie  Arctic  regions,  and 
no  tidimi's  of  tlie  Erel>us  and  'Terror,  gave  rise  to  the  court- 
martial  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher  and  liis  officers,  all  of  whom, 
Avith  the  exce]")lion  of  Sir  Edward,  were  honourably  acrjuitted, 
as  a  matt(>r  of  coiu'se,  in  conseriuence  of  tlieir  haA'ing  acted 
vmder  ordc^r^,  and  tiieir  swords  were  returned  to  them  with 
ver\-  flatt.'iing  expressions  of  a]:)pi'obation.  Sir  Edwai'd 
r^elcher  was  ;tlso  acfjiiitted.  Init  was  re])roved  for  not  haviiig 
coii-ultcd  -Uifici.'ii-ly  with  liis  officers,  and  \i\>  ^word  was 
retiu'ned  to  hini  in  sit.':nificant  silence. 

Tlie-  Bi'iii'-h  gox'f'r'nnuMit  now  decided  to  aliaivlon  th(^  se;u'ch 
foi'  Sir  .lohi!  l-\ranl\liii,  ;ni(l  his  nam(>  w;!s  (M'ased_  fi-oiii  tlie  l)ooks 
of  the  Admii-alty.  —  a  sad  token  that  all  lio^x^  (jf  his  rctui'u  w;is 
li'oiu"  forcvi-r. 


ISO 


THE    CllKAT     WIIITI-:    XOllTII 


A  st  i':in,t;('  ;iii(l  fomuut ic  cliaplcr  in  the  hislon'  of  Sir  Ivhvard 
jjclclicf's  <([iia(lroii  was  added  in  the  nicjnth  of  September, 
]S.l."j.  ddie  whalei',  O'eo/v/e  Jhnrij,  ('ai)tain  Bviddin,ii;ton,  liail- 
ini;-  from  Xew  London,  ( '(jimeetieuT,  was  beset  by  ice  in  Haf- 
fin  15ay.  <  >n  looking  through  his  ghiss  one  morning,  C.'a])- 
1;iin  !)uddiiigton  saw  a  large  shi])  fifteen  or  twent\'  miles  away, 
Working  hei-  way  slowly  toward  him.  For  several  days  lu; 
watched  hei'  gradually  a])proaeh,  and  on  the  seventh  day,  the 
mate,  Air.  (^uail,  and  tlu'ee  men  were  sent  out  to  find  out  what 
she  was. 

"After  a  hard  d;iy"s  joiu'iiey  over  tlie  icc^,  —  jumping  from 
])iece  to  ])iee(>,  and  ])ushiiig  themselves  along  on  isolated 
cakes,  they  were  near  enou.gh  to  see  that  she  was  lying  on  lua" 
l;i!'board  side,  (irm!\'  imbeilded  in  the  ice.  They  shoute(l 
lu^lil\-  as  soon  as  they  got  witiiin  hailing  distance;  but  there 
\vas  no  answer.  Not  a  soul  was  to  be  seen.  I'or  one  mo- 
ment, as  they  came  along-ide,  the  inen  faltered,  with  a  su])er- 
stitious  feeling,  and  lie-italed  to  go  on  board.  A  mojnent 
af'ei',  they  had  climbed  o\-er  the  bi'oken  ice,  and  stood  on 
deck.  JA'cr'yt  hing  was  stowed  away  in  oi'der  -  spai's  hauled 
U])  and  la>he(l  to  one  side,  bo;it>  piled  together,  hatches 
calked  <lown.  ( )\'er  the  helm,  in  letters  of  bi'ass,  was  in- 
scril.'ed  the  motto,  'iaiglatid  expect-;  e\-ei'y  man  to  do  his 
duty."      ]'>u\   there  wa-  no  man  to  heed  the  warning." 

The  wh.alemen  broke  open  the  companionway,  and  dc- 
sceiuled  into  the  cabin.  .Ml  wa.-  -ilenee  and  dai'kness.  (  ii'o])- 
iu'j,-  llii'ir  w.ay  lo  the  table,  i!iey  found  malches  and  candle-, 
.■lud  .-truek  .a  liuht.  There  \ycv('  decanters  and  glas-es  on  the 
t.abje,  cli.-iu--  .aiid  lMUML:.e-  -taiidinu'  around,  book-  scattered 
about  e\-(-ryt  hiuLi,'  jii-t  a-  it  had  been  la.-l  u-ed.  bo()king 
curiou-!\'  fi'om  (iiie  tliiiiu'  tn  anotlaa',  wondfaun;.':  what  this 
d'  -'-rli'd  -l:ii)  mi'j,!:'  be,  at  l.a.-t  they  came  upon  tin'  loL!,--lH)(ik. 
ll  w:i- iudui'-ed,  ■•/,',;,■/,■  //r.-e////,',  | -t  Se  1 ,1  euil  K  a',  1  S."):',,  t  o  A  pi'il , 
Is.')!."       (  »l!e     eiilr\-     wa-     a-     tolloWs  :      '■[I.     .M.     S.      /,',.<,,!;;!;, 


Dh'shirrioN   OF   THE   siurs  l.sj 

rrtli  January,  ISoi,  uiiu;  a.m.  Clustered  by  (li\'isious.  P('oi)le 
taking  (^xercisc  on  (icck.     Five  p.m.     AltTcury  I'roztui." 

At  lasi  tlu>  Rcsoliilc  luul  broken  hvv  icy  bonds  and  was  free. 
Wliik^  the  Yanlce(>  wlialiMucni  wove  examining  hei',  a  gale 
started  up  and  niglil  eanie  on  ;  for  two  days  these  four  iii(>n 
nMn;un(Hl  aboard  her.  T>y  thi>  19th  of  Sei)teniber  they  had 
returned  to  their  own  sliip  and  told  th(>ir  stoi'y. 

For  Um  days  these  two  stii])s  had  gradually  neanHl  one 
anoth(M-,  and  on  the  19th  Cai^tain  Buddington  w;is  able  to 
board  the  lUsohdc  himself  and  carefully  note  hej'  condition. 
Hei'  hold  was  ]M'(^tty  W(~ll  filled  with  ic(\  and  her  tanks  had 
])in'st  from  the  extrcMue  cold,  filling  her  full  of  water  almost  to 
the  low(a'  deck. 

'' I'^verything  that  could  move  from  its  ])lace  had  mo\-(Ml. 
Eviaything  b(>1\V(Hm  decks  was  wet  ;  (>^■(M■ything  tliat  would 
mould  was  mouldy.  'A  sort  of  ])ers])irat  ion '  had  stalled  on 
th(>  beams  taid  ceilings.  The  whalemiMi  ]nad(^  a  fire  in  Ko\- 
lett's  st()\'(>,  and  soon  startcul  a  sort  'jf  showei'  fi'om  tlie  va])or 
with  which  it  filled  the  air.  Th(>  licsulufc  had.  lio'W(n'er, 
foui-  force  ])um]ys.  For  thi'CH^  days  the  ('a])tain  an<l  six  nu^u 
wo!'k(Ml  fou!"t(-(Mi  hours  a  day  on  one  of  thes(\  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  finding  that  they  freed  Ikm'  of  water,  -  tluit  she 
was  tight  still.  Th(>y  cut  away  upon  th(^  niassc>s  of  lev; 
and  on  the  '2'.]d  of  Se])teml)er,  in  tho  (^vening,  sh(>  freed  luM'self 
from  hei'  (Micumbrances,  and  took  an  (n'cn  keel.  This  was 
off  the  we>t  sliore  of  l>aflin's  Ixiy.  in  latitude  ()7^.  On  the 
short (vi  tack,  sh(>  was  tweh'e  hundr(>d  inil(\s  from  wluM'e 
Kellett   left   h(>r. 

''Therc^  was  woi'k  enough  still  to  hie  done.  I'tie  rudder  w;is 
to  b(>  shipped,  and  I'igtiing  to  be  mad(^  taut,  sail  to  bc^  ■-:et." 

In  anotluM-  weelc  she  was  i-(^a(ly  to  make  sail  -  and  tliotigh 
both  th.e  whak^r  and  Risnlnh  still  di-iftt'd  in  tlie  ice-;)ack, 
C'aj'jtain  T^iuddinuton  ix^soK'c^d  to  bi'insi'  her  hom.e:  l!owev(M', 
l)y  ()c!(.)l)(a'  21,  after  a  gale,  the  lii'solnh    was  free.      Ten   iin  n 


l.si! 


Till-:    CHEAT     WllllE    XOJiTJI 


were  sclccttHl  from  th(>  d'corgc  Ilciirij,  and  with  n)u,i;'h  tr;icin,a,'s 
of  \\\c  AincricMU  coast,  his  Ivvvv  watch  and  (luadi'aiil  i'or  his 
iiistrunu'iits,  {'a])taiu  J^U(l(liii,u;toii  uiKUn'took  a  jx'rilous  and 
remarkable  joui'iicy.  '^Fhc  ship's  ballast  was  j^onc,  she  was 
top-heavy  an<l  imd(M-maiiued.  Heavy  gales  and  head  v.'inds 
drove  tlumi  as  far  as  the  l^jerimidas.  The  water  left  in  the 
shii)'s  tanks  was  brackish  — and  the  men  suffered  from  tiiirst. 

"  I'"or  sixty  hours  at  a  time/'  says  Cai)taiu  Jiuddington, 
"I  freciuently  had  no  slee])." 

In  the  meant im(>,  he  had  conununicated  with  an  l-vn<;lish 
whaling-  bai'k,  and  In'her  sent  to  ('a])tain  ivellett  his  epaulets 
and  word  to  h.is  owners  that  he  was  comin.ti;. 

On  Sunday  mornint;-,  I)eeemb(>r  2  I,  with  the  British  ensign 
[lyin,2,'  fi'om  her  shorn  masts,  the  lU-^olidc  ancliorcMl  o])])()site 
Xew  kondon.  It  will  be  I'emembei'ed  that  (li'(\Mt  P>ritaiu 
i!:enei'oU:~ly  releasinl  all  claims  in  favour  of  the  sailors,  and  that 
( 'on, ur(>ss  i'e>ol\'ed  to  j)urc!iase  the  \'essel  and  I'cstorc  it  as  a 
uift  to  i'Jigland.  ^Fhe  li'csoliilc  was  taken  to  a  dry  dock  in 
I)i'ookl>'n,  and  tliei'e  put  in  complele  repair.  l^\'eryt  liin.i;'  on 
bo.'ii'd,  e\-en  the  smallest  ai'ticle,  was  jilaced  in  its  oi'iuinal 
po-ition.  ami  at  last  wlsen  tin-;  woi'k  was  completed,  sh(^  was 
m,ui!ied  ;uid  oflicered  l)y  the  knited  States  Xa,\'\',  and  with 
<ails  ;ill  set  ;md  streamers  all  flyiut;'  started  h)i'  hji.iiiand.  On 
1  )cccinber  12.  IS.")!),  ;iftei'  a,  tempestuous  \-oy;i<i,(',  she  anchored 
at  Spit  head,  flyinu'  the  i^'itldi  and  rnit(><!  States  eii-i'ui-;. 
Aflci'  ;u!  enlhiHiaslic  welconi(\  the  llcsnhilc,  with  an  (>-cort 
of  two  other  steamers,  wms  t;iken  to  ('owes,  near  ()ueen  \  ic- 
t  ori;i"--  pii\  ;ite  p;il;ice.  I  )eerml)('i'  HI.  |  he  (^hicen.  ;;ccomp;ii  iied 
by  rriiice  .MIxTi,  the  I'riiiceof  Wales,  .'iiid  a  dist  in,^'ui-lied 
>uite,  p;iid  an  olhi-ial  \i>it  to  1  lie  Amei'ic.an  ollicei's  on  bo.'ird 
.diip. 

'I'^'e  next  niorninii.'  she  was  1  owed  up  to  the  harboui'  of  koi'ts- 
moMlh.  e<c(ifleil  'hy  the  -le.'im  frii;,'ate  L'l  h'ihiitiini ,  .-ind.  ou 
arri'vinii;  at    her  anchoi'aiie,   was  recei\-ed  with  a   i'o\'al  sahUe, 


STOllV    OF    THE    RESOLUTE  18o 

and  such  an  outburst  of  popular  a])plause  as  was  never  known 
bel'or(\ 

On  th(>  ;]Oth  of  December,  ISoG,  the  American  flag  was 
haul(>(l  down  on  board  tlie  Resolute,  amid  a  salute  from  the 
Vieionj  of  twenty-one  guns.  The  Union  Jack  was  hoisted 
U]),  and  the  formal  transfer  of  the  Resolute  to  the  British  au- 
thorities was  (•oin])let(Hl.  The  following  day  the  American 
ofliccrs  and  crew  left  England  for  the  United  States. 

Tiiough  the  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  was  still  a  mystery. 
n(>\vs  of  a,  nu^lanclioly  character  h:ul  reached  England  tiu'ough 
tlu-  Montreal  Ilerold  of  October  21,  18.") 4,  in  which  a  letter  was 
])ubl!sh(Ml  wi'itten  ])y  Dr.  Hae  of  York  Factory,  August  4 
of  tlie  >am(\\'oar,  and  addr(\-^sed  to  the  governor  of  the  Hud- 
son V>tiy  ( 'ompau}'.  August  lo,  18.1.'],  Rae  had  rc^ached  his 
old  (|uarters  ad  Pa^pulse  l^ay,  wIum'c  he  wintered  :  the  cmd  of 
the  following  March  he  und(M'took  liis  spring  joui'uey.  At 
FcUy  l^ay  \iv  fell  in  with  I->kinios  i'nmi  whom  he  s(H'ur(Ml 
se\-('ral  articles  that  he  recogriizcMl  as  Ix'longing  to  vai'iou> 
]ucmbers  of  Sir  .lolm  Franklin's  expedition.  '"On  tlu^  moi'n- 
ing  of  the  2!)th"'  (April),  he  writes  in  ]ii>  journal,  ''W(^  were 
met  by  a  \'ery  intelligent  Eskimo  driving  a  dog-sknlge  laden 
with  musk-ox  1)(h4'.  This  mari  a.t  onc(^  consented  to  acconi- 
])ap,y  us  two  da\'s"  journey,  and  in  a  icw  minutes  liad  de])osit(Ml 
his  load  on  the  snow,  and  was  r(>ady  to  join  us.  Having 
ex])lain(^d  to  liim  my  object,  lu^  said  that  th(^  road  l\v  which 
lie  !i:id  come  was  tk.e  best  foi'  us  :  and,  having  lightencMl  tlu^ 
men's  sknlgcs,  wo  tra\'enc(l  with  more  fa''ilii\'.  We  were  now 
join!';!  by  .-motlicr  of  the  natives,  wlio  had  \)oon  ai>s('nt  sf^d- 
liunting  y('stei'da\'  :  but,  being  anxious  to  sec  us,  had  A'isitcd 
oui'  -now-hon.st'  cai'l^'  this  morning,  and  tiicu  f()no\vedt  U])  our 
traclv.  ddiis  man  \\'as  \'cfy  conuuunicatiN'c  and,  on  ])uttiiig 
to  him  the  usu;d  (inestions  as  to  his  having  sihmi  'whit(>  man' 
b('for(\  or  any  >hi]>s  m'  boats,  lie  i-cplied  in  the  ut^u'ativi^  :  ])Ut 
saiil  that  a  ]xirty  of  '  Kal)loomans'  had    di(Ml    of    star\'atioii 


1^4 


Tin:  f;ni:.iT    wiiitf.   xoirni 


a  Idii.u'  distance  to  tlic  west  ol"  wiici'c  we  then  wcr(\  an<l  Ijcyond 
a  laritc  ri\-cr.  He  stated  that  he  did  not  know  llie  exact  ])lace, 
tlial  lie  ne\-er  liad  l)een  tiiei'e,  and  that  he  could  not  acconi- 
])any  ii<  >o  far.  The  >uli-tan.ce  of  the  information  then  and 
sul).-e(|Ueiitl\'  obtained  fi'oni  various  s(jurces  \vas  to  the  fol- 
low'insj;  effect  :  -- 

"  In  the  sprinu'.  fourwinters  ])a-t  '  IS.")!) ;.  \vhile  some  J^sldmo 
fiunilies  wei'e  l-cilliim'  seal<  neai'  the  nort  h  shore  of  a  lartie  island, 
named  in  An'ow-mit  h'~-  charts  K'ini!,'  WilliamV  Land,  ahout 
foUy  white  meii  were  -ren  travellinu.'  in  conii)any  southward 
o\'ei'  the  ice,  and  dra,i;;u'in,2:  a  boat  and  sledii:(N  with  them. 
They  were  pa-.-in.u'  alonu'  the  we-t  shore  of  x\v-  above-named 
inland.  Xoiu'  of  the  ])arty  could  -])eak  the  M-kimo  lanu'ua.ii'e 
so  well  as  to  be  understood.  !  lut  by  -iun>  the  natives  were  led 
to  belie\-e  that  the  ship  or  -hi])-  had  been  cru-jied  l)y  ice, 
and  they  were  now  ,u'oin,i!;  to  whei'e  th(\v  ex])ect(Ml  to  find  deer 
to  -hoot.  I'"rom  the  ai)peai'ance  of  tlic  men  —  all  of  whom, 
with  the  e\c('])tion  of  an  oilicer.  wei'e  li.aulinu"  on  the  dra.ii'- 
rope<  of  tiie  sledii-c,  and  looketl  thin  —  th'cy  wei'e  then  su])- 
])o-ed  to  be  u'ettinii  -liort  oi'  pro\'i-ion>  :  anil  they  purchased 
a  .-m;ill  ,-e:il.  or  piece  of  -eal.  fl'oni  the  natl\'<'-.  The  officer 
w;i-  dc-ia'i!>ed  ::-  beinu'  ;i  1;dl,  ^tout,  mid;(llc-;iL:,-cd  man.  \\'hen 
their  d;iy'-  journey  terminaied,  the\'  pilche(l  ten1>  to  re>t  in, 

"Al  a  lati'l'  d;i1i',  ih.c  .-mne  >e;i-on.  but  pi-c\-ioU-  lo  the  di>- 
rupl  ioii  of  1  he  ice.  t  h<'  coi-p-c-  ot'  -oiue  1  liirly  pei\-on<  and  -ome 

;j,'i':i\"e-  W'ci'c  (li-coN-ered  oil   the  ''ol  it  i  lieii  t  ,  and  fi\'e  di':id  bodies 

Oh  all  i-l;md  ne:ir  ii.  .-iboiu  a  loiii:'  dcy"-  journey  to  the  north- 
wi'-l  of  t!,e  mouth  of  ;i  lai'iie  -ti'eam,  which  can  be  no  other 
ihcii  licckb  (ovat  l''i-h  Ibu'ei'  '  n;mied  by  t  he  h^kimo-  (  >ot- 
dMM-!.i-e:i-|ik  .  ;i-  it-  die-eriplidll  ;iud  licit  nf  the  IdW  -hoi'e  ill 
th-   ic'i-hi'orhood    of    I'oinl    »  »iiie  and    Ab)iitre;d    l-l;md   auree 

eX;iet!\^  with  'li;it  (  >!'  "^ir  ('..■iir'^e  hk-e'k.  Some  of  I  he  bo(lies 
\\-iVi-  ill  ;i  ti'!:',  or  tent-:  other-  Wei'e  Ullder  the  l)o;i1.  which 
hcd    bei'ii    lurued   o\-er    to    form   a    -heher  :     ;md    -ome   l;i\-   <r:i*- 


THACES    OF    Slli    JOHN    FHAXKLl.X  18.") 

toi-(Ml  al)out  in  diffcrcMit  dircu'tions.  Of  those  seen  on  the 
ishmd,  it  was  sn])pos(Ml  that  on(^  was  that  of  an  ofiiccu'  (eliiefj, 
;is  he  had  a  telescope  stra])])ed  over  his  shoulders,  and  a 
doubk^-barrelled  i!;un  lay  underneath  him. 

'"From  the  mutilated  state  of  many  of  the  hodic^s  and  the 
contents  of  the  kettles,  it  is  evident  that  our  wretched  coun- 
trymen had  IxMni  driven  to  the  dread  alternative  of  cannibal- 
ism as  a  means  of  sustaining  life.  A  few  of  the  unfoi'tunate 
men  nuist  have  survived  until  the  arrival  of  the  wild-f(.)wl  (sa\' 
until  the  en.d  of  ^lay),  as  shots  were  lieard.  and  fresh  hones  and 
feathers  of  L;;e(\-<(^  wer(>  notic(M_l  near  the  sc(Mie  of  the  sad  event. 

"Theri^  a])peai's  to  luive  \)V(n\  an  abundant  store  of  annmi- 
nition,  as  the  .u'uni^owder  was  emj)tied  l)y  the  natives  in  a 
!u>a])  on  tlie  ,a;round  out  oi  the  k!'i2;s  or  cases  containing  it, 
and  a  ([Uantity  of  shot  and  ball  was  found  below  hi<i'h-water 
mark,  having  ])robably  been  left  on  the  ice  close  to  the  beach 
before  the  spring  connnence'd.  There  mu>t  liave  been,  a 
number  of  telescopes,  guns  (several  of  them  double-l)ai"reiled), 
watchers,  compa-^ses,  etc.,  all  of  wliich  schmu  to  ha\'e  been 
bi'oken  U]).  as  I  saw  ])iec(>s  of  these  dilTerent  articl(>s  with  the 
nati\'es.  and  I  ]iurcha>c(l  a-^  !n:uiy  as  jiossiblc,  together  witli 
some  s!lv(M'  si)o()ns  and  forks,  an  Order  of  Alca'it  in  the  form 
of  a  star,  and  a  small  silver  plat(^  caigraved  'Sir  John  Fi'anklin, 
K.(\B.'" 

FoHowing  '•los(-ly  U])oii  the  retui'U  of  Or.  Pvae  to  England, 
a  land  journe\'  was  undei'taken  by  Mr.  James  Anderson  of 
the  fludsoii  I)a>'  ( 'omjiany  to  follow  u|)  the  trail.  Tie 
descended  the  (Ireat  I'i.-li  liix'cr  in  Jime,  IS.")."),  and  at  the 
rai)id-  billow  Fake  Franklin,  three  l\!,-]<imo  liiits  were  sei-ii 
and  \"arlou-  article^  were  found  wliicli  tlie  F.-kimos  claimed 
were  obt;iin(>d  fj'om  :i  boat  owned  liy  \vhite  men  who  had  dii-d 
of  star\"ation.  FIh^sc  articl(>s  eonsi-ted  of  tent-jiole^.  ])addle<. 
co])])er  ami  sjieet-iron  kioiha's,  tin  sou])  ttn-een^,  and  toob  of 
\'arious  kinds. 


18(; 


Tin:  cm: AT   white  yoirrn 


Ainlcrsoii  ])iis1uhI  on  to  Point  Beaufort,  un<l  finally  rcachod 
^Montreal  Island.  I'hcrc  ollu^r  articles  were  i'ound,  such  as 
chain,  hooks,  tools,  r()])(',  l)untinu;;  tlu^  name  "Air.  Slanl(\\'" 
(sui'.ii'con  of  the  j'^rthu-^)  was  rudely  car\'ed  on  a  stick,  and  a 
l)iec(>  of  hoard  had  on  it  Terror.  So  si,a,'ns  of  human  I'eniains 
were  found,  however.  After  a  search  at  Point  Ogle,  where 
similar  articles  wei'e  found.  .Vnderson's  ])arty  I'dui-ncnl  liome. 

Thouidi  the  P)ritisli  ii-o\-ermnent  no  lonsi'er  desired  to  ])U!'sue 
the  search,  Lad\'  I""ranldiii.  wliose  remai'kahle  tenacity'  of 
jMupose  and  loyal  de\-ot ion  had  av.'akened  so  much  admira- 
tion and  !■('-])('(•;,  (lecid(>d  t(.)  ex])end  the  last  r(>nmant  of  her 
fortune  to  outfit  the  small  scr(>w  steamer  Fn.v  undcM'  the  ahk^ 
direction  of  the  .gallant  ArCTmtocI^,  aided  hy  Lieutenant 
llohson,  and  send  it  to  solve  the  my.-tei'y  that  still  clun.ir  about 
the  fate  of  her  helox'ed  husband. 

At  fir>t  it  se(>med  as  if  all  the  el(>ments  liad  cons])ired  to 
make  this  ex'ix'dition  a  hiilure,  for  in  the  sununei'  of  IS.")? 
the  fiix  h)und  hei'self  dril'tin.u'  at  the  mercy  of  the  ice  off 
Alelxille  P)a\',  and  after  a  driniry  winter  the  ])ack  liad  carried 
her  nearl\'  tweU'e  hundre(l  u-(>o_ui'a])hical  miles  in  the  Atlantic. 
Xol  until  A])ril  2."),  iS.lX.did  the  /''e.r ,i!,ct  free,  and  tlu>n,  securin.ii; 
such  stoi-es  and  prox'i.-ioiis  as  could  he  ])rocure(l  at  the  small 
Danish  settlement  of  Ilolstenhura,',  she  saile<l  into  I^arrow 
Strait. 

liarly  tlu^  foliowina;  sjjrini;;  ]>arii(>s  imder  Al'C'lintock  and 
Li(iit(-nant  Iloh-on  undi'i'took  two  sleduv  iourney>.  At 
('a])i'  \irtoi'i:i  oil  llie  soul  tiwesl  coast  of  ISootliia,  they  fell 
ill  with  h-iviiuos,  w!io  iiifortiu'd  them  that  -ome  year--  l)ack 
a  lafLic  -hip  had  lieeii  (M'U^hed  in  the  ice  out  ill  the  .>ea  \\•e.-^t  of 
Kiim'  W'ilhain    h.aiid. 

•  Ml  April  '_'().  they  auaiii  met  llies(>  sam(>  h-ldmos.  wjio 
informi'd  ihi'ui  with  ureal  rehi'Maiirc  that  a  -ecoiid  -hit)  had 
hci'M  foi'cefl  (111  -hore.  wlici-c  they  -.U|)po<ed  she  ,-liil  remained, 
hut    much   hi'okcii.      Thex'  addc(j   ihal    it    \\'a>  in  the  i'all  of  llic 


rUE    fox's    VOrAGJ-J    rNJ)EI!    M'CLiyTOCK        1ST 

yc^ir,  that  is,  Au<;ust  or  S(^plenil)er,  when  Ww  sliijjs  wcn^  (\c~ 
stroyccl;  that  all  the  while  people  landc^l  safely  and  went 
awa}'  to  tlu^  (Ireat  Fish  Hiver,  taking  a  boat  or  boats  with 
them.  The  following  year  their  bones  were  found  upon  the 
trail.  ArClintock  and  Plobson  separat(\l  upon  reaeliing  ("a])e 
\'ietoria,  and  the  foruK^r  took  up  the  search  of  the  east  coast 
in  a  southerly  tlirection,  while  Hobson  made  a  diligent  exam- 
ination of  the  wesK^rn  coast. 

On  ^h\\  7,  IS,')',),  :\rC'lintock  Avrites  :  — 

"To  avoid  snow-blindness,  we  comuKuieed  night  marching. 
Crossing  o\'er  from  Malty  Island  towards  the  King  Willimn 
Land  shore,  we  continued  our  march  southward  until  mid- 
niglit.  when  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  arrive  at  an  inhabited 
snow-village.  AVe  found  luM-e  ten  or  twcdvc  huts  and  thirty 
or  foi'ty  natives  of  Kirig  A\'illiam  Island  ;  I  do  not  tliinlc 
any  of  them  had  ever  stH'n  ^\■hite  peo])le  alive  b(^fore,  l)ut  they 
(^\idently  kn(*w  us  to  be  friends.  We  halttnl  at  a  little  dis- 
t;ince,  and  ])it('h(Ml  our  tent,  th(>  better  to  s(^cur(>  small  articles 
from  being  stolen  whilst  we  l)art(^re(l  with  them. 

'"1  ]')in'chas(Hl  fi'om  tlu^n  six  ])iec(\s  of  silver  ])late,  beai'ing 
th(>  crests  or  initials  of  Franklin.  ( 'I'oziei',  Fairholm(\  and 
]\I(d^onald  :  they  a.lso  sold  u<  bows  and  arrows  of  English 
woods,  uniform  and  othei'  buttons,  and  olfered  us  a  heavy 
sledge  madi'  of  two  short  stout  ])i(>ces  of  curved  Vv'ood,  which 
no  uioiv  boat  could  lur\'e  furnished  them  with,  but  this,  of 
coui's(\  we  could  not  take  away  :  tlie  silver  s])oons  and  forks 
W(M'e  I'cadily  sold  for  four  uccmIU^s  (>ach. 

"Having  obtained  all  tlu^  ri^lics  they  ]~'o<sess(H]."  continue-; 
Al'f. 'lintocic,  "I  i)urch;is(Hl  souk^  seal's  fi(\<h.  blub])(M'.  frozen 
\'euison,  di'ied  and  fi'ozen  salmon,  and  sold  some  of  my 
])U])i)ies.  The}'  told  us  it  w;is  h'\'e  (la\'s'  journi^y  to  the  wrecl^. 
oric  da\'  up  th(>  in.let  still  in  >ight ,  and  fom'  day-;  ov(M'land  : 
tlii>  would  carcy  tli.em  to  ttic'  west(M'n  coast  of  Kinu"  AA'illiam 
Land  :    thc^\-  ad<led  that  Ijut  little  now  remained  of  \\io  wreck 


1S8 


Tin:  a  hi:  AT    white  xoiitii 


which  was  a,('c('ssil)h>,  ihcii'  count rynicii  haviiij;'  carried  uhiiost 
(>\-crylhin^  away.  In  answer  to  an  in(|uiry,  they  said  she 
was  without  masts;  th(-  (piestion  <;-ave  rise  to  some  hiu^hter 
amoniist  thein,  and  ihey  spoke  to  each  otliei-  ahout  fire, 
from  which  I'eterson  thou<i;ht  they  had  burnt  the  masts 
throui^h  close  to  tlie  deck  in  order  to  <i'et  them  down. 

"Tliei'c  had  been  iikiiiij  hooL's,  tli(\y  said,  hut  all  have  long 
ago  been  dest  I'oyed  by  \]\r  weather;  th(>  shi])  was  h)rced  on 
shore  in  the  fall  of  the  year  by  tlu-  ice.  She  had  not  been 
\-isited  during  the  ))ast  wilder,  and  an  old  woman  and  a  boy 
were  shown  to  us  who  were  the  last  to  \"isit  the  wreck  ;  they 
said  they  had  bcM'U  at  it  during  the  winter  of  bSr)7-l(Sr)8. 
J'eterson  ([uestioned  the  woman  closely,  and  she  se(>m(Hi 
anxious  to  give  all  liie  information  in  her  ]^ower.  She  said 
man\'  oi'  the  wliite  men  di'oi)])(Hl  by  ihe  way  as  they  went  to 
the  (h'eat  lii\'ei' ;  that  some  were  tiuried  and  some  were  not  ; 
they  did  not  themseU'cs  witn(\-s  this:  but  disc()\-ered  th(>ir 
bodies  dui'ing  the  winter  h)llowing. 

"We  could  not  ari'i\"e  at  an\'  a|)])roximat ion  of  the  n.um- 
bers  of  the  white  men  noi'  of  the  _\'ears  ela])sed  since  they  were 
lost.     This  was  all  the  inh)rniation  we  could  obtain." 

\'isitiiig  the  shore  along  which  the  I'ctreating  crews  nnist; 
have  marched,  lie  came  shortly  aftei'  midnight  May  121,  when 
slowly  walking  along  ;i  gfa\'(^l  I'idge  near  the  beach  which  tlie 
winds  kept  pailiall;\'  bare  of  snow,  upon  a  human  .skeleton, 
partly  expo-cd,  with  here  and  there  a  h'W  fi'agments  of  clot  h- 
i'lg'  appearing  through  the  snow.  '"The  skeleton  now 
perfectly  iih'aehed  wa<  l\-ing  upon  its  face,  the  limlx  and 
s!:iai!<  r    b(Mie,-    either    dl>se\'ereil    oi'    a,'n;iwed    awa\'    bv    >niall 


"A  niM-l  cai'eful  examination  of  the  spot,"  wi'lte>  M'('iin- 
locf:,  "\\a--,  of  coui'se,  made,  the  >now  remox'ed,  .and  e\'(a'y 
sei',;p  iif  cldlliing  gathered  up.  .\  pocket-book  afforded 
sli'nicj,  '.;!'Mimi!>  of  hope  that   >onie  infoi'inalion  might    be  >ub- 


THE    fox's    ]-OVA(iE  V.\l)i:U    M'CJAXT(>(  K         lSi» 

soqucMiliy  obtaiiiod  I'csi^xH'tinsi;  tlu>  mifortunat('  owner  and  the 
calamitous  niarcii  of  the  lost  crews,  but  at  the  time  it  was 
ho'ivn  hard.  The  sul)stance  of  that  which  we  gleaned  tipon 
the  s])ot  may  thus  be  summed  up  :  — 

"This  \-ietim  was  a  young  man  slightly  built,  and  perha])s 
above  tlu~  conmion  height  ;  the  dress  ajipeared  to  be  that  of 
a  stewai'd  oi-  ()flic(>r's  servant,  the  loos(^  bow-knot  in  which 
liis  neck-handkerchief  was  tied  not  b(>ing  used  liy  s(>amen  or 
ofhc(-rs.  In  e\-ery  i)articiilar  the  di'ess  confirmed  otu'  conjec- 
tur(^s  as  to  his  rank  or  ollicc^  in  the  lat(^  expedition,  — the  blue 
jacket  with  slashed  sl(M'ves  and  braidcnl  edging,  and  th(>  ])il()t- 
cloth  gr(>at-coat  witli  ])lain  co\'ei'ed  l)Uttons.  W'e  found,  also, 
a  clothes-brush  near,  and  a  horn  ])0('ket-coml).  This  ])oor 
man  stH'nis  to  have  sc^h^'ted  the  bare  I'idge  to]),  a.s  alVording 
the  least  tir(>sonu'  walking,  and  to  luu'c  fallen  upon  his  f;!C(.! 
in  tlie  })osition  in  which  we  found  him.  It  was  a  melancholy 
truth  that  tlu^  old  ^\•oman  s])oke  wlien  slie  said  'they  fell 
down  and  dietl  as  they  walked  along.""" 

At  ('ai)e  Herschel  a  cairn  was  found  all  but  dc^molished  by 
the  natives,  and  gi-eatly  to  the  disa])])ointment  of  ^rClintock 
no  I'ecord  of  any  kind  was  discox'ered. 

"I  noticed  wilh  great  care."  lie  writes,  "the  a]")])earan('e 
of  the  stones,  and  came  to  the  conclu-^ion  that  the  eaim  itself 
was  of  old  date,  and  had  bieen  erected  many  years  ago,  and 
that  it  was  r(Mluc'cd  to  th(>  state  in  whicli  we  found  it  by  ])eo])le 
!ia\'ing  broken  down  one  side  of  it  :  the  displac(Hl  stones,  from 
being  turned  o\-ei',  looking  far  more  fresh  than  tlios(>  in  that 
])orti()n  of  the  cairn  which  had  been  l(>ft  standing.  It  w;is  with 
a  fe(^ling  of  dee))  regret  and  nmcli  disa])])ointmtMit  that  I  left 
this  spot  witliout  finding  some  cert.'dn  i'(M'ord  of  tho-e  martyrs 
to  their  country's  fam(\  Perha))>  in  all  the  wide  woi'ld  llierf^ 
will  be  U'\y  spoi-^  niore  hallowed  in  the  I'ecollecl  ion  (>!'  faigli^h 
seamen  than  rhi-~  cairn  on  ( 'ajx'  nerscliel. 

■"A  few  mil(>s  beyond  Cajx'  ller>chel  I  Ik- l-nd  becoUit>  \'er>' 


I'JU  Till-:    (illKAT     WHITE    XOUTII 

low  ;  in:iny  islots  and  :^liin<i;l('-ri(l<2;('s  lie  far  off  tho  coast  ;  and 
as  we  ad\'anc('d  wv  met  with  hiiinniock-  of  iiinisiially  heavy 
ice,  slicjwing  ])hiiuly  that  we  were  n(jw  tra\'(-hin<4'  upon  a  far 
more  ex])osed  ])art  of  the  coast-hnc-.  A\'e  were  a])|)roachin,<x 
a  spot  where  a  revekitiou  of  intense  intere:^t  was  awaiting 
me. 

'■About  twelve  miles  from  Cape  Herschel  I  found  a  small 
cairn  Iniilt  Ijy  Iloljson's  party,  containin,ii'  a  note  for  me. 
He  had  reac!ie<l  this  his  extreme  point,  six  days  ])r(-vioii>!\-, 
without  having  seen  anything  of  the  wreck,  or  of  natives, 
but  he  had  found  a  reccn'd  —  the  record  so  ardently  sought  for 
—  of  the  Franklin  ex])edation  —  at  Point  Mctory,  on  the 
northwest  coast  of  King  A\'illiam  Land.  That  record  is 
indeed  a  sad  and  touching  relic  of  our  lost  friends,  and,  to 
,sini])lify  its  content.-.  I  Avill  ]:)oint  out  .-ei)aratel\'  tlie  double 
story  it  sq  briefly  tells. 

"In  the  first  place,  tlie  record  ]')a])er  was  one  of  tin-  jirintcd 

forms  u-ually  supplied  to  (li>c(jvery  shi])-  for  the   ])urj)o>(-  (jI 

l)eing  enclosed  in  bottles  and  tlirown   ov(-i'board.  at   >ea.   in 

order  to  ascei'tain  the  M-t  of  the  cui'rents,  blanks  beii^g  k-ft 

for  tlie  date  and  ]")0-itio!i  :    an\'  p^ixju  findinu'  one  oi  the-e 

record.s   i<   r(H"jUe-ied   to   forward^   it    to   the   Secretary   of  th(^ 

Admiralty,  with  a  note  of  time  and  |")lace  :    and  ihi.-  rec|ue>t 

is  ])ririted  u])on   it    in  >ix  difffrent   language.-.      I']")on   it   was 

writt('n,  apjKirently  by  Lieutenant  flore,  as  follow-  :  — 

(.-.'-.o     f  AT        '  IL  AL  <iii])s  Knh'iis  and  Tcrrnr 

2'S  01  Ahi\-,        .  ,.,...        . 

-ic\-      '     ■  wmterr'd  in  trie  ice  m  lat.  /()' 

o.r  X. :  iniio-.  ov"  2;r  w. 

■'■na\"ing  wintered  in  bsKV-T.  at  Px-f-chey  Pland,  in  lat. 
7k  i:;'  2s"  \..  lonir.  Id"  :;!V  bV  W.,  after  haviiiLr  a-eeiided 
W'ciliiiiiion  r!i;Mincl  to  lat.  77"  and  retm'ned  by  t!ic  we-i  .-ide 
of  C  'MriiWaHf-   Plaiid. 

"■.•~^ir  Jojiii   IVaiiklin  commandinu'  the  exjx'dition. 

'■'All  w!l. 


riu-:  fox's  voyace   iwder  m'clintock      lUl 

'•'Parly  consisting  of  2  officers  and  (i  men  left  the  ships  on 
Aloudav,  mth  May,,  1847. 

'"( ini.  (!ore,  Lieut. 
'■"Clias.  V.  Des  \anix,.  Mate.' 

"There  is  an  error  in  the  ahove  document,  namely,  that  the 
Erebus  and  Terror  wintered  at  Beechey  Island  in  18i0-7, — 
th(>  corr(H't  dat(>s  should  liave  been  184o-(J;  a  glance  at  the 
date  at  th(^  loj)  and  bottom  of  the  record  proves  this,  btit  in 
all  other  respects  tlic  tale  is  told  in  as  few  words  as  ])ossible, 
of  their  wonderful  success  ti])  to  that  date,  Alay,  1847. 

"We  find  that  after  the  last  intelligence  of  Sir  Jolm  Franklin 
was  r(H'eived  \)y  us  (bearing  date  of  July,  181o),  from  the 
whalers  in  A[('l\-ille  Hay,  tliat  liis  ('X])edition  i)assed  on  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  and  eiUered  ^\'ellington  Channel,  of  which 
the  snutherii  entranc(>  had  been  discovered  by  Sir  Edward 
Parr\'  in  1810.  The  Erebiis  and  Tirror  sailed  ti])  tliat  strait 
for  on'c  lumdreil  and  fifty  miles,  and  reached  in  the  auttmm 
of  181.1  the  same  latitude  as  was  attained  eight  years  subse- 
fjuently  by  11.  M.  S.  Assisidnce  and  Pin/Ker.  Whether  Frank- 
lin intended  to  ])ursue  this  northern  course,  and  was  only 
sto])])e(l  by  ice  in  that  latitude^  of  77^  north,  or  ])in"])osely 
relin([uished  a  roiite  which  seemed  to  lead  away  from  th(> 
known  seas  off  the  coast  (jf  America,  mu>t  be  a  matter  of 
opinion  :  but  this  doctnnent  assui'cs  us  that  Si]'  John  I'^ranlc- 
lin"s  ex])e(rnion,  having  acc()m])lished  this  examination, 
returneil  southward  i'renn  latitude  77^  nortli,  which  is  at  the 
head  of  W'elhugton  ( liamiel,  and  re-entered  Barrow's  Strait 
b\-  ;i  new  channel  betwe(Mi  T)athhui'st  and  C'oinn\'allis  Islands. 

"Selilom  ha-  such  success  been  accorded  to  an  Arctic 
navigator  in  a  single  season,  an.d  when  tlie  Erehtis  and  Ttrmr 
were  secure(l  at  l^ieecliey  Island  h)r  the  coming  winter  of 
18b")  -().  the  results  of  tlieir  fii'st  \'ear"s  labor  must  liax'c  been 
mo-t  chei^rinu'.  Th(\-e  resiilts  were  the  ex])lorati()n  of  W'el- 
linu'ton  and  ()ue(m'.s  Channel,  and  the  a(.ldition  to  oiu'  charts 


11>2 


TllK    CHEAT     WlllTK    XORTIl 


k  "  H.  M.  S.X^-/    fc  u>tCt<^  ,.^.wK_  /^5-^«-^ 


_^d  ^■•^■"  '        j^  j^   S.jCjL-i    $ u>ti^  .^-^-M^  /^Ji-t^ 

1 


-/.^^ 


'y^ 


Cf 


-i      ti  of  '^-^y     ^^^ )_Lat.  >  t_L£_^Long._^£^j_ 


y^fw-.Y  ^.^^.■^trD '^'-  -'-^g^X-y  ^'^^  /fcfc^-Xy-^ 


"> 

3 
^ 


/  f  ^''  I/'.  y!^,y  9'  '? '  '•''  ^^ ^^^'  fi*.^^--^ 


.....u^l^^/a^^^ 


•-^                         6i5Ri,Kaii(k-  ^ 

L     f           Whoevib  finds  this  paper  ii  requested  to  forwird  it  to  the  Secretary  of  y      ?  j -^ 

<-Nv*  the  Adminity,  London,  «-iM  <3  n;.v  a/"  //i^'  tint  anJ  placr  at  u-hich  it  vidr-i"^-  .3 

f*^^*^  J^uriJ :  or,  if  more  conrenient,  to  deliver  it  for  tlut  purpose  to  the  BritislTo 


ConsuJ  at  the  nearest  Port. 
Qbiwcom 


m 

■i"^  '     ^  Qbi»coiiqi;j  trouTera  cc  ptpier  est  prie  J'y  mai'qucr  Ic  terns  ct  lieu  out  -"^  ,  « 

i    i  .Hi    ''  i'^"'"*  tTou»t,  et  dc  Ic  fii/c  pirrenir  au  plutot  au  Sccreuirc  de  I'Amiraiut^-?  ^^    ' 

I     ■/   ^  ^      Britannique  a  Londrc*.  'j'^l         ^-i 

'J       ,J        }  CUA 

;jKfS?  d       del    Almiranta.go 


li 


ica  de  enviarlo  al  Sccretaril_J     J  '  ],  -j 
del   tiempo  y  del   lugar/^    J  ^^^  ^J_ 


j^     ,  v'      }  CuALt^ciiBA  que  hallareeste  Papel,  se  1 

'    -KJSJ  C5  del    Almirantizgo.    en  U.nJres,    con  una 

,      .  -i   ,J  tJonde  se  halW.  ^^    V^_|'    ^• 

i  -*     'i  "^  Een  icdcr  die  dit   Papier  mogt  vindcn,  wnrdt  hicrn-.cde  vcr.-ogt,  o:n  h«i5  ^      "^ 


t'  wtl  aan  den  Sccrctaris  dc^       J'*^J^^ 
hy    te    voegen    eenc    Nota^^f--,    , 


a»      J     y  :'e!vc,    ten   spoc,iig'--tc,  tc   ui 

j  K  ^    "^  ■  """""  '"  >^-!"'-^!'"  - 

li    ^    -^  Bfitschc    Admiralitct,    te    I 

i    ^    V      /^inhoudtnde   de   lyd  en  de  j  1 

^*^>^.^  FlNDERiN   af  dc;;e    P:i;  iir  omledcs  naar    Lcilighed    gives,    at    semle    J'^j-i  ^ 

^     j       1  ,,  -i-rnine  til  Admirantets  Sc.'rei.i.rcr.  .  L.-ndun,  ell.-r  n.rrmeste  EmbedMnand  "^^   '    .-X"; 

ii--4      }^  UHn^.rk,  Norge,  eller  Sve;r,g.     T.den  og  St.J.t  hvor  dette  er  fundet  ^       JU -^ 

^  ^  .       dn-.k- '-'-'  •  -'  ^'^ 


s  gcvonden  gewordcn^    ."'  ^ 


ll 


.slcal-eligt  p 

Wbr    diesen    Zcttel    find 
des  A] 


..„..j-r^? 


f     -i     .    r\  Wbr    diesen    Zcttel    findet,  wird   hicr-diirch  crsucht  denselhcn  an  den  _j   "  ^     ^'  ; 

C   ^^    g        Secrctair  des   Admiralads    in    L-,d.on   cin/Uscndrn,  mit   gcfjll.ger  ang.lhe        ,    ,i     .   ~ 
"■    ^'^'^      an  wclchcn  ort  und  7U  wckhcr-/c,t  er  pcfundelworden  iM,  J     i'j.^ 


(;■    ^^ 


-^r-     ^ 


<^ 


ilECOlll)    OF    FIlAyKLIN'S    EXPEDITION  IDS 

of  the  extensive  laiitls  on  either  hand.  In  1S4G,  they  ])ro- 
e(>e(lecl  to  the  soutlnvest,  unci  eventually  n^aehecl  within  twelve 
miles  of  the  north  extreme  of  King  William  Land,  when  their 
jjrogress  was  arrested  \)y  the  a])proaching  winter  of  1S4G-7. 
That  winter  appears  to  have  passed  without  any  sei'ious  loss 
of  life,  and  when  in  the  spring,  Lieutenant  Gore  leaves  witli  a 
l)arty  for  some  especial  puri)ose,  and  very  probaljly  to  connect 
the  unknown  coast-line  of  King  William  Land  between  Point 
A'ictory  and  Cai)e  Llerschel,  those  on  Ijoard  the  Erchus  and 
Terror  were  'all  well,'  and  the  gallant  Franklin  still  com- 
manded. 

''J^ut,  alas  !  round  the  margin  of  the  ])ap(>r  upon  which 
Lieut (Miant  Gore  in  1847  wrote  those  words  of  hope  and  prom- 
ise, another  hantl  had  subsequently  written  the  following 
words  :  — 

"^-Vpril  2."),  1848.  —  H.  ]\L  ships  Terror  and  Erebu.'<  were 
deserted  on  the  22d  A])ril,  5  leagues  X.X.W.  of  this,  h.aving 
])een  beset  since  12th  September,  184G.  The  officers  and 
cr(>ws,  consisting  of  lOo  soids,  under  tlie  command  of  Ga])tain 
F.  I  J.  AT.  Grozier,  landed  here  in  lat.  69°  'Al'  42"  X.,  long.  98° 
41'  V\\  Sir  John  Franklin  (Hed  on  the  11th  June,  1847  :  and 
the  total  loss  l)y  deaths  in  the  expechtion  has  been  to  this  date 
9  officers  and  15  men. 

"MSigmMl) 
'''F.  11.  Af.  (4'ozier  James  Fitzjames, 

"''Ga])ta!n  and  Senior  Officer,         Ga])tain  II.  M.  S.  Erebus, 
"^and  start  fon)  tomorrow,  2()th  for 
Track's  Fisli  Pviver.' 

■'This  marginal  information  was  evidently  written  l)y 
Gai)tain  b'itzjames,  (^xce])ting  only  the  note  stating  when 
and  when>  they  were  going,  which  was  add(xl  l)y  GaiUain 
Grozici". 

■■Th(>i'(^    is    s()m(>    additional    mai'ginal    infoi'mation     rela- 
ti\'e  to  the  transfer  of  the  document  to  its  ])resent  position 
o 


im  rilK    GREAT     WHITE    yOUTU 

(\-iz.  tiic  >\Xc-  of  Sir  James  Ross's  ])illar)  from  a  spot  four  miles 
to  the  iiortli\v:ir(l  near  P(nut  \'ictor\'.  where  it  had  been  orifi;- 
inall}"  (le])o>iteil  hy  the  late  ("(jmmander  (Jore.  Tlii^  httle 
word  Idli'  .-hows  that  he,  too,  within  the  twelvemonth  had 
])asse(l  a. way. 

"  \n  the  short  sjiace  of  twelve  months,  how  mournful  had 
become  the  hi-tory  (jf  Franklin's  expedition  ;  lujw  ehanjif(l 
from  the  eiieerful  "All  well'  of  ( iraham  (Jore  I  The  s])rinii-  (jf 
1817  found  them  within  1)0  miles  of  the  known  sea  off  the 
coast  of  Amei'ica  :  and  to  men  who  had  already  in  tw(j  seasons 
sailed  o\-er  •")()()  miles  of  ])reviou-ly  unex])lored  waters,  IkjW 
(•(Hifident  must  they  ha\'e  felt  that  that  forthcomin<i;  navi,ti'a.bl(! 
season  of  1.S47  would  see  tludr  shi])s  ])ass  over  so  short  an  inter- 
venin.u'  space  I  It  was  I'uled  otherwise.  A\'ithin  a  month 
after  J.ieuicnant  (lore  ])laced  the  record  on  Point  \"ictor\', 
the  nuich-lo\'ed  leader  of  the  ex])edition.  Sir  John  Franklin, 
was  dead:  and  the  fidlowinu;  >])riii^  fecund  Captain  ( 'rozier, 
u])on  whom  the  command  had  devolved  at  Kinu'  William 
Land.  endea\'orin.u' to  >ave  his  starxdn.ir  men.  l*).")  >ouls  in  all, 
from  a  terrible  death  by  I'etreatin^u'  t(j  Ilud.-on  Bay  territories 
uj)  the  I^)ack  or  (Ireat  Fi<h  lvi\'er. 

"A  s:idder  tale  was  never  told  in  fewer  wordis.  There  is 
soUK-t  hin,u'  deeply  touchin,u'  in  th('ir  extreme  >im])licity,  and 
the}'  -how  in  the  >t  r'on,u'e>t  manner  that  both  the  leaders  in 
thi-  r('i  i'eati;ui'  ])arty  wer(^  actuate(l  liy  the  loftiest  sen.-e  of 
duty  and  met  w\\\\  calnmcss  and  d(-ci-ion  the  fearful  alter- 
iK!ti\-e  of  a  la-t  bold  -t  ruu-ule  foi'  life,  rather  than  ))eri.-h  with- 
out effort  on  board  tlu'ir  -hip- :  for  we  well  know  that  the 
Ki'ih-is  and  'Ft rrtji'  were  only  ))ro\'i-ioned  u])  to  July.  b'>ls." 

M '(  Tnitorj^'-  party  were  now  rmminu'  -hort  of  ])ro\"i-ions, 
but  ill'-  lindinu'  ol'  -uch  imi)ortant  reHc-  dctormintMl  i),,.  leader 
to  ])ur-Mi'  tiie  -i-arch  to  the  utt('rmo-t  limiu-  of  hi-  power.-. 

Hn  M.a\-  :!()  ho  wi'iii--:  'AW  encamped  aloim-ii  Jo  a  larii'e 
boat  —    another    m('lanc!i(.»l\'   relic    which   llob-on   had   found 


SLEDGE    JOriLXEYS  195 

and  examined  a  few  days  Ijefore,  as  liis  note  left  here  informed 
m(>  ;  bnt  lie  had  failed  to  discover  reeorel,  journal,  pocket- 
book,  or  memorandum  of  any  description.  A  vast  quantity 
of  tattennl  clothinj;'  was  lyin<i;  in  her,  and  this  we  first  exam- 
i'acd.  Not  a  sint;i(^  article  !)ore  the  name  of  its  former  owner. 
llie  boat  was  ch^ared  out  and  carefully  swei:>t  that  nothin<2; 
mi<2;ht  escapt^  us.  The  snow  was  then  removed  from  about 
her,  but  nothing  whatever  was  found." 

After  a  detailed  description  of  this  l)oat,  its  weight,  con- 
struction, and  marks,  etc.,  M'Clintock  continues:  — 

"But  all  these  were  after  observations;  there  was  that  in 
the  l)oat  -which  transfixed  us  with  awe.  Jt  was  poi'tions  of  two 
human  skeletons.  One  was  that  of  a  slight  young  p(^rson  ; 
the  oth(T  of  a  large,  strongly  made,  middle-aged  man.  The 
foi'UKM'  was  found  in  tho  bow  of  the  boat,  but  in  too  much  dis- 
turl;>ed  a  stat(>  to  enabk^  Ilobson  to  judge  wli(>ther  the  sufferer 
had  died  there  ;  large  and  powerful  animals,  probably  wolves, 
had  destroyed  much  of  this  skeleton,  which  may  have  been 
that  of  an  of!ic(>r.  Near  it  we  found  the  fragm(Mits  of  a  ])air 
of  worked  slippers,  of  which  I  give  the  ])attern,  as  they  may 
possibly  b(>  identified.  The  lines  w(M-e  white,  with  a  black 
margin  :  the  sj^aces  white,  red,  and  yellow.  They  had  orig- 
ina!l;\'  been  11  IucIk^s  long,  lined  with  calf-skin  with  the  hair 
left  on,  and  the  edges  bound  with  red  silk  ri])l)on.  Besides 
these  slii)])<'rs  ther(^  were  a  ])air  of  small  strong  shooting 
half-boots. 

"The  otluM-  skeleton  was  in  som(nvhat  more  ])erfect  state, 
and  was  (Mivelo])ed  witli  clotlies  and  furs:  it  lay  across  the 
boat,  under  the  after-thwart.  ( 'los(^  besid(>  it  vere  foimd 
iWv  watches  :  and  there  were  two  double-barrelled  guns  — ■ 
<')]u^  bari'(-l  in  each  hxulcd  and  cocked  ■—  standing  muzzle 
ui)war(ls  against  the  boat's  side.  It  m;}y  be  imagined  with 
wluit  d(H'p  intei'cst  th(>se  sad  ri'lics  wen-  scrutiniz(>d.  and  how 
anxioush'   cvvvv    fragnu-nt   of   clothing   was    turned    o\'er   in 


I'.h; 


THE  (niEAT    Winn:  yonrii 


search  of  ))()('k('ts  and  ])()ck('t-bo()ks,  journals,  or  oven  names. 
Fi\-e  or  six  small  hooks  \V(>re  found,  all  of  them  scriptural  or 
(le\-otional  works,  except  the  '  \'icar  (jf  \\'ak(dield.'  One 
little  hook,  "Christian  Melodies,'  hore  an  inscri]itioti  U])()n 
the  title  i)a,iz:e  fi'om  llie  donor  to  (_h  (  h  ((li'aham  (lore?).  A 
small  I)ihle  contained  numerous  mai'.uinal  notes,  and  whole 
])a-~au'es  underlined.  Besides  these  hooks,  the  cov('i's  of  a 
New  Testament   and   Pra\'erhook  were-  h)und. 

"  (Quantities  of  clothing-  and  other  ai'ticles  were  of  one  de- 
scription and  another  truly  astonishing;  in  variety  and  .-uch 
as,  for  the  most  ])art.  modern  sled<i,'e-tra\'ellers  in  these  re- 
<i'ion<  would  consider  a  mere  accumulation  of   dead  wei,a.ht.'"' 

The  only  pro\'i.-ions  that  were  di.-covered  were  a  little  tea 
and  nearl\'  forty  ]iounds  kA  chocolate  :  a  small  portion  of 
tohacco  wa-;  al-^o  found. 

The  iposition  of  th(>  ahandoned  hoat  was  ahout  fifty  miles 
as  a  sledge  would  travel  fi'om  Point  \'ictory,  and  thei'cfore 
sixt\'-{i\-e  uiiles  fi'om  the  position  of  the  shi])<,  al-o  >e\-enty 
miles  from  the  skeleton  of  the  steward,  and  oric  hundred  and 
fifty  mile<  from  Montreal  Island.  "A  little  I'ellection," 
write>  .M"(  lintoclv.  "ded  me  to  sati-fy  my  own  mind  at 
lea-1,  that  the  hoat  ^\'as  returnin,!j;  to  tlie  --hii)- :  and  in  no 
other  \vay  can  I  account  for  two  men  havinu'  heen  left  in  liei', 
than  hy  -uppo.-inu'  the  i)ai't}'  wvyv  unahle  to  drau'  tlie  hdat 
furtlier,  and  that  the<e  two  men,  not  heinu'  ahle  to  keep  i)ace 
witli  ll;i'ir  -lii])mates.  wei'e  therefore  left  hy  them  .-uppHeil 
\\'ilh  -ui'h  pi'o\-i-ion>  a-  couM  he  spai'e(l  to  last  until  the 
reiurn  of  the  other-  fi'om  the  >lii])  willi  a  fre-li  storlx. 

'■  \\  lict  hci'  it   wa-    the    intention    of    the    ret  rocedaim'   p;iriy 

1m  ;iW;:il  1  h<-  I'l'-Uh  of  ;inot  Im'I-  M'a-on  in  1  ln'  -hip-,  o!'  iM  fiilliiW 
the  tr;ick   of  the  iii;iin   hdijy  to  tlie  (d'eat    l''i.-h    hi\'er.   i-   IHtW  a 

matter  of  ci  micct  ui'e.  It  .-(cm-  hiLi'hl\'  ])i'iihahlc  that  they 
h;id  pui'Mii-i'(l  rc\-i-ii  iim-  tlic  hoat.  not  only  on  accouiu  of  tlie 
t  W(  I  mi'ii  left    ill  chai'iic  ot'  it,  hut   also  to  ohtain  the  cliocolale. 


SLEIJCE    .lOVUyEYS  VM 

the  fh'c  watches,  and  many  other  articles  which  wotiid  otlier- 
wise  scarcel}'  have  heen  left  in  her. 

"Th(-  same  reascjns  which  may  l)e  assigned  for  the  return 
of  this  detachment  from  the  main  body,  will  also  serve  to 
accfjunt  for  theii'  not  having  come  back  to  th(>ir  boat.  In 
Ijoth  instances  they  appear  to  have  greath'  overrated  their 
stnMigtli.  and  the  distance  they  could  travel  in  a  given  time. 

"Taking  this  vie-w  of  tlie  case,  we  can  understand  why 
their  ])rovisions  would  not  last  them  for  anything  like  the 
distance  they  required  to  travel,  and  why  they  would  be 
obliged  {()  send  back  to  tlie  ships  for  more,  first  taking  from 
th(>  detached  party  all  provisions  they  ccmld  possibly  spare. 
Whether  all  or  any  of  the  remainder  of  this  detached  iJarly 
evci'  i-eached  their  shi])s  is  uncertain  ;  all  we  know  is,  that 
they  did  not  revisit  the  boat,  which  accotmts  for  the  al)- 
s(>nce  of  more  sk(detons  in  its  neiglil:)orhood  ;  and  the  Ks(|ui- 
mos  re])()rt  that  there  was  no  one  alive  in  the  shi])  when  she 
drifted  on  shore,  and  that  but  one  human  body  was  foimd 
by  them  on  l)oard  of  her. 

"Aftei'  leaving  the  l)(jat  we  followed  an  irregular  coast-line 
to  the  X.  and  X.^\'..  up  to  a  very  prominent  cape,  which  is 
])robably  the  extreme  of  land  seen  ivoxn  Point  A'ictory  by  Sir 
James  Pioss.  and  named  l)y  him  Point  Franklin,  which  name, 
as  a  ca])c.  it  still  retains." 

"I  nei'il  hardly  say,"  concludes  M'Clintock,  ''that  through- 
out liie  whole  of  my  journey  along  the  shoi'cs  of  King  AVil- 
liani  bail! I  I  causeil  a  mo-t  vigilant  lookout  to  Ije  kept  to 
seaward  fi>r  miy  a])])earance  of  the  strandiMl  ship  spok(m  of  by 
the  nati\-es  ;  our  search  was.  liowe\'er,  fruitless  in  that  res])ect." 

(">{  Pieut(-nant  II(jbson*s  most  careful  and  thorough  search, 
-Al'C  lintock  vrriles:  "He  exercised  hi<  di<creti(jnary  )X)wer 
\\-\\\\  -ound  judgment,  and  c<)m])leted  hi-  search  so  well,  that 
in  ('oniin<i'  o\'ei'  tlie  same  ground  after  him,  1  could  not  dis- 
cover any  trace  that  had  esca])ed  him." 


11)8  TJIK    GREAT    WHITE    SOTITH 

'  )ii  the  lUtli  of  June,  ArClintock  oiiee  more  reached  the 
Fnx.  where  he  hjiuid  Il<)h>oii,  who  had  preceded  him  b\' five 
(hi\'s,  sick  and  uiuihle  to  walk,  havin^a;  been  dragii,('d  upon 
tlie  sle(l(ic  hjr  tiie  best  part  of  his  return  journey. 

A  third  sle<l,u;iii,a;  ])arty  imder  Captain  Young,  wliich  had 
left  th(>  7tti  of  Ai)ril,  was  stiU  in  the  field,  and  ^^I'Cdintock 
b(\t;'an  to  feel  so  oreat  anxiety  for  their  safety  that  b\'  the 
2."')th  of  June  he  set  out  with  four  men  to  search  for  them. 
"On  the  27th,'"  lie  writes.  "I  sent  three  of  the  nu-n  back  to 
the  shi]).  and  witli  Thoni])son  and  tfie  do,iis  went  on  to  Pcnn- 
mican  Ivock.  \\'hei'e,  to  our  ureat  joy,  we  hap])ily  met  Y(junir 
and  his  j)ai'ty,  who  had  l)Ut  just  returned  there,  aftei'  a  long 
and  succe.-sful  journey."' 

It  may  l)e  i)i'iefly  st;ite<l  that  Young  was  in  the  field  .-eventy- 
eight  da\'s  under  most  trying  cii'cumstances.  ( 'rossing 
l'"i'ankrni  Strait  to  Prince  of  A\'ales  Land,  he  traced  its  shores 
to  its  -oulliern  tei'nhnnt  ion  at  ('ape  Swinbui'ue.  He  failed  in 
an  attempt  to  cross  AFC 'lintock  ( 'hamiel,  owing  to  the  ]'ough 
ice,  but  he  com])lct('d  the  cxijloi'atiou^  of  tin-  coa>t  l«'yond 
()-lH)i'ti"-  f;u'th('st  to  ne:u'ly  7.']'  X.,  al>o  exploring  botli  shores 
of  l'"ranklin  .^ti'ait  l)et^\'een  the  Fux  and  ]io>s's  farthest  in  1819 
and  Hro\\'n"<  in  1  s.ll . 

The  return  of  llie  /*'",r  to  I'^iiLi'land  was  iKjt  acc()in])lisli(Hl 
without  dl[h(Mih\',  owinu'  to  tlie  deatii  of  the  etui'ineei',  wiiich 
olilieed  ]\r( 'jinloek  to  stand  by  the  engine  no  le>s  than 
t  wetity-t'oui'  con<ecuti\-e  hour<,  on  one  occa-ion.  Ilti\ve\'er, 
tliey  readied   Port-mouth,  .'^eptembei-  21.    l^.V,). 

"'I'iie  relie<  we  havc  brouu'ht  home.""  wi-ite-  (';t))tain 
M '' Tmi  ocic,  ill  eonchi-ion,  'dia\'e  been  depD-ite.l  l)y  the  Ad- 
mir:!lt\-  in  tiie  bnited  Serx'ice  In-t  it  ul  i(;n,  anil  n.ow  form  a 
natiim,-!!  memento  -  ilie  most  simple  and  mo-t  toucliing — ■ 
of  t  til  )~e  lii'i'i  lie  jiien  who  i)eri-hed  ill  t  he  ])at  li  of  duly,  but  not 
mitil  tiicy  liiid  ai'liie\-ed  llie  <j,l';Uid  object  of  tludr  Vo\'age,  — - 
tlie    1  )i-^ro\r;\-  of  llie  Nol't  h-"\\e-t    Pa--aire." 


CHAPTER   XI 

The  pccoiid  ririnnoll  expedition.  Commanded  by  Dr.  Elislia  K. 
Kane. — Winter  (juarters  in  Renrf.selaer  Harbour.  — Sled2,'ing 
trip.s. — To  the  re.scue. — -Effects  of  exhaustion  and  cold. — Dr. 
Kane's  journey.  —  Creat  Glacier  of  Humboldt.  —  Return  and 
illness  of  Dr.  Kane.  —  Second  wintei'  in  the  ice.  —  Privations  and 
suttering. — Abandonment  of  the  T'//'fl/(fe.  — Ileti'eat  and  rescue. 

Mi-:xTiox  has  already  l)ccn  made  of  the  second  Griuncll 
cx!)e(liti(jn.  coniinanded  by  T^r.  Kane  and  financed  by  Mr. 
Crinnell  and  ^.Ir.  Peabody  of  LondcMi.  Dr.  Kane's  insfrtie- 
tions  from  the  Xavy  Department  at  Washington,  dated 
November  27.  bS.")2.  road  as  follows  :  — 

"Sik:  —  Lady  Fi'anklin  having  iirg(Ml  you  to  tmdortake  a 
searcli  for  her  huslxmd,  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  his  eom])an- 
ions.  and  a  \'e.— el,  the  A'Irntirr,  having  l)een  })laced  at  your 
dis])o<ition  by  [Mr.  Oriimell,  you  are  hei'(>by  a-sign(Ml  to 
sjx'cial  duty  for  the  ]:)tu"])ose  of  conducting  an  overland  jotu'- 
n(\\'fr()m  tiieu]^])or  waters  of  Baffin's  Pa}' to  the  shores  of  the 
Pohu-  Seas. 

■■Relyinii'  u])ou  your  zeal  and  discretion,  tlie  De])artment 
sends  you  forth  u])on  an  undertaking  which  will  1)(>  attended 
wilh  gi'eat  pci'll  and  ex])osui'e.  Tru>ling  tlmt  you  will  1)0 
su-iained  by  tlic  laudalile  object  in  view,  and  wishing  you 
sticcess  and  a  >iiU'  I'etui'u  1o  your  fi'iend>.  T  am, 

'■  Pu'spef'tfully,   your  obe(lient  scrN'ant, 

"Jonx  P.   Kkxxedy. 
'"Pa--ed  Assistant  Surgeon  E.  K.  Kane, 
"  Enitcd  States  Xavy.   Phihulel])hia." 

The  small  bi'ig  Aflriuicc,  oue.  hundiMMJ  and  forty-ton-'  b/ur- 


lOi) 


Till-:  CHEAT    WHITE  yoirrii 


(Icn,  with  s('\-('n{(MMi  ])ick('(l  num  besides  the  coiniiuinder, 
sailed  IVoni  New  ^'ork  on  the  .'JOtli  of  Alay,  ISoi^,  "escorted 
by  se\-ei';d  nol)k'  steamers;  and,  ])assing  slowly  on  to  the 
Narrows  amid  salutes  and  chcM'rs  of  farewelL" 

At  1h(^  end  of  eiu;ht(M>n  days  tlie  Advuncc  had  reached  St. 
John's,  Xewfoundhiiid,  wliere  (iovernor  Hamilton,  a  brother 
to  the  secretary  of  tlie  P>i'itish  Admiralty,  and  othei'  officials, 
combined  with  the  inhabitants  to  welcome  the  exjX'dition. 
r])on  sailin<^'  once  more,  Dr.  Kane  was  ])resented  with  u 
noble  team  of  Xewfoundland  do,ti;s,  the  ,u;ift  of  the   jiovernoi-. 

The  Adnnicc  reached  P>aifin  liay  without  incident,  and  a 
few  days  later  found  her  off  the  coast  of  (Ireenland,  ma]-:in,u; 
her  wa.y  b)  l-'isdernaes,  which  was  reached  the  1st  of  .Jul\',  — 
"amid  the  clamor  of  its  entire  ])oi)ulation,  assembled  on 
the  rock   to  <i,i'eet  us." 

Ib'i'e  a  nati\'(^  I'^kimo,  Hans  C'ln'istiiuisen,  was  en.u'asecl  as 
interpreter  for  the  ex])edition.  The  Adiaiicc  then  jji-oceeded 
across  Alelville  P^ay  in  the  wake  of  vast  iceber<is,  dodtiinti-  to 
the  rear  of  these  hu.^e  floatin,a;  masses,  holdin.ti,'  on  to  them 
when  ad\'erse  winds  became  anno\'in<i',  and  i)ressin,u'  foi'ward 
as  o])|)ort  unit>'  offered.  Idie  ])rom()ntory  of  Swai'tehuk  was 
passed  by  the  Kith.  The  followinjj;  day  the  Ailvancc  an- 
chored at  Proven,  where  Dr.  Kane  was  warmly  welcotned 
by  his  old  fi'iend  ( 'hrisi  iansen,  the  superintendent.  H(>re 
he  made  necessary  ])urclia,ses  of  furs,  and  these  were  ^])eedily 
m;ide  into  suitalile  uarments  by  tli(>  sui)erintenden1 's  wife  and 
liei'  ;i>-istants.  A\'hile  the  briii'  sailed  leisiu'cly  up  the  coast, 
Katie  >et  out  in  the  whale-boat  to  make  pin'cha-e>  of  doii's 
amon.u'  the  nali\'es  of  the  difl'ei-ent  set  t  lenient^.  After  a  two 
<!:iy--'  stay  at  1  periia\'ik,  the  Adraiia  ])r()cee(led  on  her 
ciiiir-c  ;nid  i)a~-ed  in  >iicce>si( »n  the  Iv-kimo  setllement  of 
l\in'j.;iliik,  the  Kettle,  ;i  nionnlaiii  toj)  <o  named  from  lli(> 
ri-(  ml 'f-iiKM'  (if  it-  profile,  and  finally  Zottik,  the  t'arthest 
point  1)1'  !•(  iloni/at  ion. 


rilE    SECOXI)    an  IN  NELL    EXP  EDIT  [OX  201 

In('liiiin<>;  moro  directly  to  the  north,  she  sijihted  the  huid- 
iiiark  known  'as  the  Hors(>'s  Head,  and  hiter  Ducks  Islands, 
and  made  for  Wilcox  Point,  which  was  passed  on  the  27th 
of  July.  The  2d  of  August  found  them  well  in  the  ice  and 
harassed  by  fogs,  but  the  floes  opened  at  intervals,  allowin<>; 
the  shi])  to  niak(^  hc^r  slow  progress  through  them.  The  north 
wat(n'  was  comparatively  free  from  obstructions,  and  l)y  the 
5th  th(\v  had  ])assed  the  "Crimson  Cliffs"  described  by  Sir 
John  Koss  ;  two  days  later  they  doubled  Cape  Alexander, 
and  i)assed  in  to  Smith  Sound.  At  Littleton  Ishmd  they 
stopjx^d  to  de})osit  a  boat  and  sup})ly  of  stores.  On  August  8 
tlu^  ship  ck>sed  with  the  ice  and  bored  her  way  through  the 
loose  str(nun  ice  some  forty  miles  beyond  Life  Boat  Co\e,  when 
it  IxH'ame  impossible  to  force  her  way  any  farther,  and.  says 
Kane  :  "A  dense  fog  gathering  round  us,  we  were  carrier  1 
h(4pk^ssly  to  the  eastward.  We  should  have  ])cen  forced 
ui)on  the  (ireenland  coast,  but  an  eddy  close  in  shore  re- 
leas(Kl  us  for  a  few  moments  from  direct  pressure,  and  w(^ 
were  fortunate  (mough  to  get  out  a  whale-line  to  the  rocks 
and  warp  into  a  ])rotecting  niche." 

The  following  day  he  writes:  "It  may  be  noted  among 
our  littk^  mis(M-i(^s  that  we  have  more  than  fift}^  dogs  on 
board,  tlu^  majority  of  whom  might  ratliei'  be  characterized 
a<  'ravcMiing  wolves.'  To  feed  this  family  u])on  Avliose 
strength  o\U'  iirogress  and  success  depend,  is  really  a  diffi- 
cult niatt(n-.  The  absemce  of  shore  or  land  ice  to  the  south  in 
Bafhn  Bay  has  ]or(n'(>nted  our  riflc^s  from  contriljuting  any 
material  aid  to  our  connnissariat.  Our  two  bears  lasted  th(> 
cormorants  ])ut  eight  days;  and  to  f(>ed  them  uj^on  1h(^ 
m(^agr(^  allowance  of  two  ])ounds  of  raw  fh^sh  ovvvy  oIIkm*  da>' 
is  an  tdmost  i]n])o~-sl])le  n(H'(^ssity.  Only  yesterday  they 
\vrrc  read\'  (o  eat  the  cal)0(.)se  u]),  f(U-  I  would  not  gi\"e  them 
])emniican.  Corn  meal  or  beans,  which  Peiiney's  dogs  fed 
(HI.  they  disdain  to  touch  ;  and  salt  junk  would  kill  ihem. 


202  THE    CRKAT     U'lIirE    NORTH 

"  Acc()r(lin.u'ly,  I  started  out  tliis  mornin,^;  to  hunt  walrus, 
witli  which  tlu'  Sound  is  te(;niing.  We  saw  at  least  fifty  of 
these  dusky  monsters,  and  approached  many  groups  within 
twenty  ])aces.  But  our  rifle  balls  nn-erberated  fron^i  tlnnr 
hides  like  cork  pellets  from  a  pop-gun  target,  and  W(^  could 
not  get  within  har])oon  distance  of  one.  Later  in  the  day, 
however,  ()hls(>n,  climbing  a  neighboring  hill  to  scan  tlie 
horizon  and  see  if  the  ice  had  slackened,  found  the  dead 
carcass  of  a  narwhale  or  sea-unicorn  ;  a  liapjiy  discovery, 
which  has  >ecurcfl  for  us  at  least  six  lumdred  pounds  of  good, 
fetid,  wholesome  fi(\-h.  The  length  of  the  narwhale  was 
fourteen  feet,  and  his  process,  or  'horn,'  from  tli(^  tip  to  its 
l)ony  encasement,  four  feet.  .  .  .  AVe  Ijuilt  a  fire  on  the 
rocks,  and  melted  down  liis  l)lubber  :  lie  will  yield  readily 
two  barrels  of  oil." 

The  condition  (jf  the  ice,  furious  gales,  and  the  fast  approach- 
ing winter  all  combined  to  dishearten  the  crew,  wlio  with 
one  exce])tion  desired  to  relui'u  south  and  find  winter  rjuar- 
ters.  Dr.  Kane,  ll0^\•(n'el•,  determined  to  ])U>h  northward, 
and  fiiuilly  located  in  Ivenssela(>r  Ilarljour  7S"  87'  X.,  71^  V\  . 
]W  the  lOlh  of  Se])tember.  the  long  "night  in  which  no  man 
can  work"'  was  clo<e  at  hand:  the  thermometei' stood  at  14^; 
every  ])repai'at  ion  Was  made  for  wintei'ing;  a  storehouse  \\'as 
erecte<l  at  I)Uller  I>I;md  :  an  astronomical  observatory 
arrang('(l  at    a  short    distance  from   the  shi]). 

'■I>('sid('s  ])re])ai'ing  our  \\inter  (|uartcrs."  wi'ites  Dr. 
Kane.  "I  am  enuaged  in  the  ])reHniinai'y  arrangement:-  h)r 
m\'  j)ro\a-ii)n  (U'pots  along  the  (ireenland  coast.  Air.  Ken- 
ned\-  i<.  I  l)(-lie\-e,  the  only  one  of  m\'  ])redec('S>()rs  who  has 
u-ed  (h'tobei-  ;tiid  Xox'eiiiber  foi'  Arctic  field  work;  but  I 
deem  it  impoi't  atit  to  oui'  nio\'emen1<  ilui'ing  the  wintf'T  and 
spl'ilill'.  that  depot-  in  ad\'alice  should  be  made  belore  the 
dai'k'iie--;  -et<  in.  I  pui'po-e  arraiiii'inii'  three  ol  them  at  in- 
ter\-al-. --■  ])U-hin,ii;  them   as  tar  forwai'd  a,-   I    can.  -     to  con- 


DR.    ELI  SUA    K.    KANE  203 

tain  in  all  sonic  twelve  hundred  pounds  of  ])rovision,  of  which 
ci,i:;lit  hundred  will  be  ])eininican.''' 

1\)  this  (>nd  one  hundrcnl  and  twenty-five  miles  of  the 
(irccnland  coast  was  traced  to  the  north  and  east;  the  largest 
of  th(>  three  depots  was  located  on  an  island  in  latitude 
7(f  12'  (•)",  and  longitude  iS'f  25'. 

By  tlu^  2()tli  of  Xoveniber,  the  darkness  made  field  work 
imi)ossil)le,  and  for  on(^  hundred  and  twenty  days  the  little 
band  of  Arctic  ex])lorers  endured  the  weariness  and  bitter 
cold  of  the  long  night. 

"On  the  17th  of  January,"'  writes  Dr.  Kane,  "'our  tlier- 
monu^ters  stood  at  forty-nin(^  degrees  l)elow  zero;  and  on 
the  20th  the  range  of  those  at  the  observatory  was  at  —64° 
to  —  ()7°.  The  temperature  on  the  flo(~s  was  always  some- 
wliat  higher  than  at  the  island  ;  the  difference  being  dti(>, 
as  1  su])])ose,  to  tlu^  heat  conducted  from  th(>  sea-Avater, 
which  was  at  a  tem]:)eratur(>  of  +20°;  the  susjicuided  instru- 
ments  ])eing   affected   by   radiation. 

"On  the  oth  of  Fe])rtiary,  our  tluu'mometcn's  began  to  show 
unexam]d(Ml  tem])eratiu'e.  'rh(\\'  ranged  from  ()0°  to  7")° 
below  zero,  and  one  very  reliable  insti'unient  stood  U])()n 
the  taffrail  of  our  l)rig  at  — O.")".  The  reduced  m(>an  of  our 
best  spirit-staudai'ds  gav(^  —07°,  or  00°  below  the  fr(H:'zing- 
jvjint  of  watcn-. 

"At  th(>se  temi)eratur(>s  chloiic  ether  becami^  solid,  and 
carefully  pre])ai'ed  chloroform  exhibitcHl  a  granular  ])ellicle  on 
its  surfju'c.  Si)irit  of  n.aphtha  froze  at  —h\°,  and  oil  of  winter- 
green  was  in  a  tlocculent  state  at  —  5t)°,  and  solid  at  — 1)3° 
and  —  i).'j°. 

■"The  (whalations  fi-om  the  surfac(^  of  the  botly  inve-l(d 
the  ex])osed  or  ])artiall\'  clad  ])arts  with  a  A\'reath  of  vapor. 
The  air  had  a  ])erc(>])tible  ])ungencv  U])on  insi)iration.  but  I 
could  not  ])ei'ceive  th(^  ])ainrul  s(Misation  which  has  bemi 
spoken  of  by  some  Siberian  travellers.     AMien  breathed  for 


20i  v///-;    UHEAT     WHITE    NOlilll 

any  l(Mi,<ith  of  time,  it  iin])art('(l  a  sensation  of  dryness  to  the 
air-))a>.-a,u('s.  1  noticed  that,  as  it  wvvv  involuntarily,  we  ail 
breathed   <iuard(>dly,    with   eonii)ressed   h])s." 

The  de])ressin_(;-  inliuenei-  of  such  low  teni))eratures  affeeted 
both  man  and  beast.  The  ])oor  do<i;s  suffered  keenly,  and 
man}'  of  them  died  of  affections  of  the  brain,  whicli  beii;au 
with  tlie  same  sym])toms  of  fits,  lunacy,  and  lockjaw.  The 
loss  of  fift\'-seven  of  tliese  bi'ave  animals  seriously  affected 
1  )i'.  Kane's  ])lans.  Tlu"  crew  were  <2;reatly  depleted  by 
scur\-y  and  almost  imfit  for  the  arduous  work  i)lanne(l  h)r 
the  (>arly  s])rin,i;'. 

''An  Arctic  ni<;ht  and  an  Arctic  day,"  remarks  l^r.  Kane, 
"age  a  man  more  I'ajjidly  and  hai'shly  than  a  year  anywhere 
else    ill    the    world." 

]'^arly  in  March  a  sledjiinji'  ])arty  was  orti'anized  to  ascer- 
tain whether  it  were  ])racticable  to  force  a  way  over  the 
crowded  ber.<i,s  and  moimtainous  ice  to  the  north.  An  ad- 
vance cor])s  was  sent  out  to  ])lace  a  de])ot  of  ])rovisions  at  a 
suitable  di>taiice   from  the   briii;. 

Ahirch  20,  Dr.  Kane  writes  as  follows  :  — 

"I  saw  the  de])ot  ])art\'  off  yesterda}'.  They  ji'ave  the 
u^ual  three  cheers,  with  three  f(.)r  myself.  I  ,<i;a\'e  them  the 
whole  of  my  brother's  <ireat  v.'eddiiiu-cake  and  my  last  two 
bottles  (if  Port,  and  they  ])ulled  the  slcdtie  thc\'  w<'re  har- 
n('--e(l  to  famously.  \\\i\  I  was  not  satisfied.  I  could  see  it 
was  hartl  work;  and,  besiiles,  tliey  were  without  the  boat, 
or  eiiouuh  extra  pemmican  to  make  theii'  depo-it  of  im- 
])ortaiice.  I  h»llowed  th(Mii,  thei'efore,  and  I'ound  that  they 
eiic;ii!ipcd  at  S  p.m.  only  fi\-c  mile<  from  the  briu'. 

'A\iicii  1  (»\-('r!o(ik  them,  I  said  iiothiiiu,'  to  di-courasic 
tln-m,  and  ,u'a\'<'  no  new  oi'dcrs  foi'  the  morniiiii' :  but  after 
lauiihiii'j,  at  udoil  (  )hl-eirs  ruei'ul  face,  and  listening  to  all 
l'et(-i--en'-  a>>iir;mce-  tliat  the  cold  and  nothing  liUt  the  cold 
retarded   hi>   (ii'eenl.aiid   >led,ti;e,    and    that    no   sleilge   of   an\' 


WINTER    QUARTERS    IN    RENSSELAER    HARBOUR      205 

other  construction  could  have  been  moved  at  all  through 
—  40°  snow,  I  quietly  bade  them  good-night,  leaving  all  hands 
under  their  liuffaloes. 

"Once  returned  to  the  brig,  all  my  tired  remainder  men 
were  smmnoned  ;  a  large  sledge  with  board  runners  which  1 
had  built  somewhat  after  the  neat  xVdmiralty  model  sent 
nu^  by  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  Avas  taken  down,  scrapcnl, 
polislied,  lashed,  and  fitted  with  track  ropes  and  rue-raddies  ; 
the  lin(\s  arranged  to  draw  as  near  as  possible  in  a  line  with 
the  ('(Mitre  of  gravity. 

''We  made  an  entire  cover  of  canvas,  with  snugly  ad- 
justcnl  fastenings  ;  and  by  one  in  the  morning  we  had  our 
discarded  excess  of  pemmican  and  th(^  boat  once  mor(i  in 
stowag(\  Off  we  went  for  the  camp  of  the  sleepers.  It  was 
very  cold,  but  a  thoroughly  Arctic  night ;  the  snow  just 
ting(Ml  with  tlie  crimson  stratus  above  the  sun,  which,  eciui- 
noctial  as  it  was,  glared  beneath  the  northern  horizon  like  a 
sm(4ting-furnace.  W(^  found  the  tent  of  the  party  by  the 
l)eariugs  of  the  stranded  l)ergs.  Quietly  and  stealthily  we 
hauled  away  their  Eskimo  sledge,  and  placed  her  cargo 
upon  the  Faith. 

''Fiv(^  men  were  then  rue-raddied  to  the  track-lines,  and 
with  the  whispered  word,  'Xow,  boys,  when  Air.  Brooks 
gives  his  tliird  snore,  off  with  you  !'  off  they  went,  and  the 
Faith  after  them,  as  free  and  nimbk^  as  a  volunteer.  The 
trial  was  a  triumpli.  We  awakened  the  sl(H>pers  with  three 
cheers  ;  and,  giving  them  a  second  good-by,  returned  to  the 
brig,  cai'rying  the  dishononHl  vehicle  along  witli  us.  And 
now,  bating  mishaps  past  anticipation,  I  shall  have  a  de])ot 
for  my  long  trip. 

"The  ]:)arty  were  seen  by  AlcOary  from  aloft,  at  noon  to- 
day, moving  easily,  and  al)Out  twelve  miles  from  the  brig." 

I'^Jcn^en  da,}'s  lat(M-,  March  .'U,  Dr.  Kane  writes  :  — 

"We  were  at  work  cheerfully,  s(nving  away  at  th(>  skins  of 


•20  C) 


THE    (iUKAT    WIIITK    yoimi 


soiuf  nK)ccasins  ])y  thf  blaze  of  our  lani])s,  whfii.  t^owarfl  mid- 
niulit,  \vc  heard  llie  n()i>e  of  >le]).s  above,  and  the  next  minute 
Soiuitau'.  '  )hl>('n.  and  l^'tersen  came  down  into  tlie  cabin. 
Their  manner  startled  me  even  more  than  theii'  tmexjiected 
a])i)earance  on  Ijoard.  d'hey  were  .swollen  and  ha,U'gard, 
and   hardly  able   \i)   s])eak. 

"Their  story  was  a  tearful  one.  The>'  had  left  their  com- 
])anions  in  the  ice,  i'i<kinu'  their  own  li\'(\s  to  briny;  us  the 
new>  :  I^rooke,  l-5akc'r.  Wdlson.  and  Iderre  were  all  lyinii 
frozen  and  di-ablcd.  Where?  They  coidd  not  tell:  some- 
where in  amonu'  the  liuimnocks  to  the  north  and  east:  it 
wa>  driftiiiii,'  he;ivily  I'ound  them  when  they  partf'd.  Irish 
Tom  liad  stayed  by  to  feed  and  rare  for  the  others  :  but  the 
ehanees  wer(-  -orely  au'ainst  them.  It  was  in  vain  t()  (jue.-- 
tion  tlu'in  further.  They  had  e\-ideiiily  travelle(l  a  .U'l'eat 
di-taiice.  for  they  were  siidvint:  with  fatitine  and  hun,2,er, 
and  eould  }iard!\'  be  rallied  enouy,'h  to  tell  u.-  the  (hrection 
in  whieh   they  had  eome.'" 

'■.My  fir-t  iiujiuke,""  eontinue-  Dr.  Kane.  ''Ava-  to  move  c>n 
tlie  in.-tant  with  an  uiU'ncumbered  iiarty  :  -d  re-cue  to  be 
effective  or  e\'('n  li(i])eful.  conhi  noi  be  too  ])i'onn)t.  Wdiat 
pre.--ed  on  my  mind  mo-t  wa-.  Aviiei-e  \]\c  <u:fei-(':--  were  to 
lie  looked  for  amonu'  the  drift-.  <  )hl<en  >f'emed  to  ha\'e  his 
facuhif-  rallier  more  at  cotmnand  than  hi-  a--ociate>.  and 
I  thoULiiit  that  he  miii'lit  a—i-t  u-  a<  a  ,uiuile  :  but  he  Was 
-inlviiiii'  with  e\hau-lion,  anil  if  he  went  Wf'  mu-l  caiT\' 
him. 

"d'iiere  \va-  not  a  mo!iif'!it  to  Ik'  lo-t.  \Miile  -ome  \vrre 
-till  l)U-y  with  th"  newcdUicT-  anil  ii'ettinii'  reaiiy  a  ha-ty 
nc-al.  odie;--  Were  I'i'^Liini:  oi;t  the  /./'//(  W'iU't  will,  a,  liuiVaio 
co\-fi'.  a  -;iiall  t  ent  .  aiii  1  a  pacisau"  of  ])emini''an  :  and.  a-  -oon 
a-  \'.^e  coiiM  lairfx'  ihi'oiiLih  ou!'  a rranui'tiient -.  (  *ckeii  wa< 
-iraoiied  ,,ji  ii!  a  fill'  I'.au.  M-  I'-'j:-  wrapped  ii:  dn::— kin-  and 
eii  ii'T-'lown.  and  \\'e   were  off  upon   ihe   ice.      (  )ur  ])arty  con- 


SLEDGING     TRIPS  207 

sistod  of  nine  men  and  myself.  We  carried  only  the  clothes 
on  our  Ixicks.  TIk;  thermometer  stood  at  —  4G^,  78°  below 
the  freezing-point. 

"A  well-known  peculiar  tower  of  ice,  called  l)y  the  men  the 
'Pinnacly  Berg,'  served  as  our  first  land-mark;  other  ice- 
b(>rgs  of  colossal  size,  which  stretched  in  long  beaded  lines 
across  tlu>  bay,  helped  to  guide  us  afterward  ;  and  it  was 
not  until  we  had  travelled  for  sixteen  hours  that  we  began  to 
lose  our  way. 

"^^'c  knew  tliat  our  lost  companions  must  be  somewhere 
in  the  area  Ijefore  us,  within  a  radius  of  forty  miles.  Air. 
Ohls(^n,  who  had  be(^n  for  fifty  hours  without  rest,  fell  asleep 
as  soon  as  w(^  began  to  move,  and  awoke  now  with  unequiv- 
ocal signs  of  mental  disturbance.  It  became  evident  that 
h(^  had  lost  th(^  bearing  of  the  icebergs,  which  in  form  and 
color  endl(^ssly  repeated  themselves ;  and  the  uniformity 
of  th(^  vast  field  of  snow  utterly  forbade  the  hope  of  local  land- 
marks. 

'Tusliing  ahead  of  the  party,  and  clambering  over  some 
rugg(Hl  ice  ]:iiles,  I  came  to  a  long  level  floe,  which  I  thought 
midir  ]irol);il)ly  have  attracted  the  eyes  of  weary  men  in 
cii'cujn<tances  like  our  own.  It  was  a  light  conjecture  ;  but 
it  was  (Miough  to  turn  the  scale,  for  there  was  no  other  to 
balance  it.  T  gave  orders  to  abandon  the  sledge,  and  dis- 
perse in  se-arch  of  footmarks. 

''Wo  r;ii.-ed  our  tent,  placed  our  pemmican  in  cache,  ex- 
ce]^t  a  small  allowance  f(.)r  each  man  to  carry  on  his  jierson  ; 
and  poor  Ohls(>n,  uow  just  abl(>  to  k(^e])  h.is  legs,  was  libcn-ated 
from  hi<  bag.  The  tliei'monu^ter  had  fallen  by  this  time  to 
—  49"  ?)',  and  the  wind  was  s(4ting  in  sharply  fi'om  the  north- 
west. 

"It  was  out  of  t]i(>  qu(vtion  to  halt  ;  it  r(Y|uired  l)risk  ex(T- 
ci^e  to  keep  us  fi-om  freezing.  I  cotild  not  even  melt  ice  for 
water  :    and,  at  tliese  temperatures,  any  resort  to  snow  for 


208  Tilt:  (niEAT   wiiriE  yonru 

the  ])Ui'])()s("  of  allayiii,u'  thirst  was  followed  by  bloody  li])s 
and  toii<i;u(' ;  it    hui'iit   like  caustic. 

"  It  was  iiulispcnsahlc  then  that  wc  should  move  on,  lookinj^' 
out  tor  traces  as  wc  went.  Yet  when  the  men  were  ordei'cd  to 
s])read  theniseh'es,  so  as  to  nnilti})ly  the  chances,  thouj^h  the\' 
all  obeyed  heartily,  some  painful  impress  of  solitary  dano'cr, 
or  ])erhaps  it  may  luu'c  been  the  var\'inji,-  confi,u;urati()n  of  the 
ice-field,  ke])t  them  clo>in<>;  U])  continually  int(j  a  singl(>  ^'roup. 
The  stran.u;e  mannei'  in  which  some  of  us  were  affected  I  now 
attribut(^  as  nuich  U)  shattered  nerves  as  to  the  direct  influ- 
ence of  the  cold.  Men  like  AIc(iar>'  and  Bonsall,  who  had 
stood  out  our  severest  marches,  were  seized  with  trembling- 
fits  and  short  breath  ;  and.  in  s])ite  of  all  my  efforts  t(j  kec]) 
U])  an  exam])le  of  sovmd  bearing,  I  fainted  twice  on  the  snow. 

"We  had  been  neai'ly  ei<ihteen  houi's  out  without  water 
or  food,  when  a  new  lio])e  cheered  us.  I  think  it  was  Hans, 
our  I->kimo  Inmter,  who  thou,^ht  he  saw  a  bi'oad  slediix^ 
track.  Tlie  drift  luid  nearly  effaced  it,  and  we  were  some 
of  us  doubtful  at  first  whether  it  was  not  one  of  tho>e  acci- 
dental rifts  which  the  ;Li:ales  make  in  the  surface-snow.  ViWX, 
as  we  ti-aced  it  on  to  the  d(>e])  snow  amon<i  the  hununocks,  we 
were  led  to  footsteps:  and,  followin.u'  these  with  reli.tiious 
care,  wc  at  la-t  cam(>  in  sisi'lit  of  a  small  Amei'ican  tla.u'  flut- 
tcriim-  fi'om  ;i  hummock,  and  lower  down  a  little  Masonic 
b;imicr  haiiuinu-  from  a  teiit-])ole  liai'dly  abov(>  the  drift. 
It  \va<  the  c;im])  of  our  disabled  coim'ades  :  we  reached  it 
after  an  unbi-ol;en  mai'ch  of  twenty-one  hours. 

••'riic  httie  lent  was  nearly  covered.  I  was  not  amoiiu'  the 
fir-t  t<»  come  up:  but.  when  I  reached  the  t etil-eurlaiii,  the 
men  \\{-vc  -ta^di^^■  in  -ilep.1  file  on  each  -ide  oi  it.  Willi 
more  kilidne--  ;iiid  delic'icx-  of  feeliiiu,-  tha!i  i-  often  -U])po-ed 
to  belotm  to  -ailoi'-,  but  which  is  almo-t  characteristic,  they 
intimated  tlieii'  wi-li  tliat  I  -hould  u'o  in  alone.  A-  1  crawled 
in,    and,    cimiinu,    U|)on    the    darkne>.-,    heard    before    me    the 


TO    THE    RKSCl'E  209 

l)urst  of  w(4c()iii(>  ^hulncss  that  came  from  tlic  four  ])oor 
fellows  stretched  on  their  Ijacks,  and  then  for  tlie  first  time 
the  clieer  ()ntsid(\  my  weakn(\ss  and  my  jiratilude  to^'ether 
ahnost  o\'ereame  me.  'Tliey  had  ex])ected  me  :  they  were 
sure  I  would  eom(>  !' 

"W'v  were  now  fifteen  souls  ;  the  thermonu^ter  s(n'enty-five 
d(\U'rees  below  the  freezing-})oint  ;  and  our  sole  acconnnoda- 
tion  a  tent  barely  able  to  contain  eight  persons  ;  more  than 
half  our  party  wen^  obliged  to  keep  from  freezing  by  walk- 
ing outside  v,'hile  th(>  others  slept.  A\'e  could  not  halt  long. 
Each  of  us  took  a  turn  of  two  hours'  sleep  ;  and  we  prepared 
for  our  liomeward  march." 

Continuing  his  spirited  narrative,  Dr.  Kane  describes 
the  I'etreat  :  — 

"It  was  fortunate  indeed  that  \vv  were  not  inexpcM'ienced  in 
sledging  ovei'  the  ice.  A  great  ])art  of  oiu'  track  lay  among 
a  succession  (jf  luunmocks  ;  some  of  tluun  extending  in  long 
linens,  fifteen  and  twenty  feet  high,  and  so  uniformly  ste(>p  that 
we  had  to  turn  them  by  a  considerable  deviation  from  our 
dii'ect  course  ;  otliers  that  wv  forc(Ml  our  way  through  far 
above  oui'  ht^ads  in  height,  lying  in  ])arallel  ridges,  with  the 
space  Ix'tween  too  narrow  for  the  sle(lge  to  be  l()W(>red  into 
il  safely,  and  yet  not  wide  enough  for  th(>  runners  to  cross 
without  tlie  aid  of  i'o])(>s  to  sta\-  them.  These  s])aces,  too, 
were  generally  chocked  with  light  snow,  hiding  lh(^  o])enings 
between  tlu^  ice-fi'agmeuts.  They  were  fearful  tnii)s  to  dis- 
engage a  limb  from,  for  ev(M'y  man  knew  lluit  a  fi'acture  or 
a  s])rain  even  would  co>t  him  his  lite.  Tie-ides  all  this,  th(> 
>ledge  was  to])  lie;t\-y  \\-ith  its  load  :  the  maime<I  men  could 
liot  bear  to  be  lashed  dowu  tight  enough  to  seiau'c  them 
agaiii-t    f.'illing  off. 

".Notwithstanding  our  caution  in  I'ejecting  every  sujier- 
ihiou-  bui'deii,  the  weight,  including  bags  and  tent,  was  elev(ai 
hundred  pounds. 


210 


THE    GREAT     WHITE    SOUTH 


"And  yet  (jur  march  for  the  first  six  hours  was  vfry  clioer- 
\\\]l.  We  made  \)y  vi<i'or(jus  i)ulls  and  hfts  nearl\'  a  mile 
an  h<jur.  and  reached  the  new  iloes  before  we  were  ahs(jhiteiy 
Weary.  Hur  slcdiic  >u-taine(l  the  trial  adniiraoly.  (jhlsen, 
rc.-tor(Ml  l)y  hope,  walked  >teadily  at  the  l('adin,<i:  Ix'lt  of  the 
slcduc  lines  :  and  1  hcoan  to  feel  certain  of  reaching'  om'  half- 
way station  of  the  day  before,  where  we  had  left  our  tent.  Hut 
we  were  still  nine  niik-s  from  it,  when,  alnifjst  without  ])remo- 
nition,  we  all  becauKj  aware  of  an  alarmin";  failure  of  our  ener- 


"I  was,  of  cotu'sc,  familiar  with  the  benumbed  and  almost 
lei  hai',ii,ic  sensation  of  extreme  cold;  and  once,  when  ('X- 
])()-ed  f(jr  -(.)me  hours  in  the  midwinter  of  Jjaflin's  Jiay.  I  had 
exjjcrieiiced  ,-yni])t(»m>  which  I  com])a.re(l  to  the  diffused 
])aral\'sis  of  the  elect i'o-,ualvanic  shock.  J^mt  1  had  treated 
the  •-■/(' /^'7  cditifdii  of  frc'cziriji,'  as  .-omethin,t!,'  like  the  embel- 
li>hment  of  I'omance.     1  had  (■N'idence  now  to  llie  contrary. 

"Pjon-all  and  .Mortcjn.  tA\'o  of  ^aiy  stoute-t  \n(-\\.  came  Xo 
me.  l)eii<iiieu'  ]X'rnii><ion  to  .-lee]):  "d'he}'  were  not  cold; 
th(-  wind  did,  not  enter  them  now  ;  a  little-  -lee])  wa,-  all  they 
Waiitedi."  Pi'(--eiitly  Hans  wa-  found  nearl\'  -tiiV  under  a 
drift  ;  and  Thomas,  bolt  ti]ii'iu'ht.  had  hi-  (-ye.-  clo-eil.  aiid 
could  h;irdl\-  articulate.  At  la-t,  .John  Pdad^e  thre\v  him.-elf 
on  the  snow,  and  I'cfu-eil  to  ri-c  ddii'\'  did  not  com])lain  of 
fci-Hicj,-  Cold;  b'Ul  it  wa-  in  \'ain  that  I  wi'e-t ],.i!.  box(-d. 
ram  arum-d,  ji-ei'eih  (,r  rejjrimantled  ;  an  iiiune(li;it  e  halt 
could  not    be  ;i\-oidcd. 

■A\'f   tiiii'hed  our   tejit    \\\\\i   mucli   difficulty.     Hiir  hand,< 

Wi-l'e  to(i  ]  lOW'i'rIe--  to  -tl'ike  a  fire;  we  Wel'e  obliii'eil  1o  (jo 
without  Wit'ii-  or  I'liod.  M\'i-li  the  -])irii-  whi-ki'\'  l:;cl 
fro/!  1!  at  liie  men'-  leet .  under  all  the  co\'el  illli-.  We  put 
l>oti~:i!l.  (  »;il-i'n.  d"hom;i-.  ;inil  Hall-,  with  the  other  -ii'k  ukii. 
Wi'ii  ili-idi'  till-  ti-lit,  ;iiiil  cfoWili-d  ill  a-  maliy  obl.i-r-  :i-  we 
could,      d'heii.   |ia\-ini:-  the   jiarty   in  charii,-e  of  Mr.   Mcliary, 


EFFECTS    OF    FXIIAFSTIOX    AND    COLD  211 

with  ordors  to  come  on  after  four  hours'  rest,  I  pushed  ahead 
Avitl'i  ^\'i^ialn  (u)dfr(>\-,  who  V(jhuiteered  to  l)e  my  eoni]ian- 
ion.  ^ly  aim  was  to  reach  the  halfway  tent,  and  tliaw  some 
ice  and  ijemmican  before  th(>  others  arrived.  Tlie  fioe  was 
of  l(ve!  ice,  and  tlie  waU^inji  excdh^nt.  1  cannot  tell  how 
lon,u'  it  took  us  to  make  the  nine  miles;  for  we  were  in  a 
stran<i-(^  sort  of  stupor,  and  had  litrie  apprehension  of  time. 
It  was  ])r()l)ril)ly  al)OUt  four  hours.  Wo  kopt  ourselves 
awake  by  impo.-inp;  on  each  (jther  a  continual  articulation  of 
wirrds  ;  they  must  have  b(>en  incoherent  enough.  I  vvcuW 
these  hours  as  among  the  most  wretched  I  have  ovov  gone 
througli  :  we  were  neither  of  us  in  our  right  senses,  and  re- 
tained a  very  confuscnl  ix-colkn'lion  of  what  preceded  our 
arri\'al  at  the  tent.  W'e  botli  of  us,  however,  renuMiiber  a 
])ear.  who  walked  leisurely  before  us  anrl  tore  up  as  he  w(^nt 
a  jum])er  that  Air.  AlcClary  had  impro^'idently  thrown  off  the 
day  Ix'fore.  fie  tore  it  into  shi'eds  and  rolled  it  into  a  ball, 
but  never  offered  to  int(>rfere  witli  om-  jirogress.  I  remember 
tliis,  and  with  it  a  confused  sentiment  that  our  tent  and 
[iutfalo  robes  nnight  ]^i'obably  sliai'e  the  same  fat(-.  (lod- 
fivy,  with  whom  the  mcnioi'y  f)f  this  day's  work  may  aton(> 
f(»i-  man\'  fault-  of  a  later  time,  had  a  better  eye  than  myself  : 
and.  lo  )kin'j;  som(^  miles  ahead,  he  could  see  tliat  our  tent 
wa-  undergoimr  the  same  unceremonious  treatment.  I 
tliouuhl  I  s:iw  it,  to(\  liut  we  were  so  drunk(-n  Avitli  cold 
th:iT  Ave  strode  on  st(>adil\',  and.  for  aught  I  know,  without 
(|iiicl^('iiing  ou!'  ]:iace.  Pi'obably  our  n])]iroac}i  sav(Ml  the 
c<)iil("nt<  of  tlie  teii1  :  for  when  w(^  j'eaclied  it  th(>  tent  was 
uniiijui'ed.  tliough  tlie  l)ear  h,;id  overturned  it,  tos>ing  the 
i)i!i'i'al()  robes  and  ))ennnican  into  the  snow  :  we  mi.-sed  only 
:i  '-oujjle  of  bhmket-bngs.  \\'hat  we  I'ecollect,  however,  and 
]>:  rliaps  all  W(-  I'ecolicd ,  is,  ihnt  we  luul  si'reat  difficulty 
in  rai-iniz  il .  \\'e  'M'awled  inio  our  reinder-r  slce])inij:-bags. 
u'illiouT   .-peaking,  and  for  tb.e  next  tln-cf  horn--  -le]>t  on  in  a 


L'l: 


THE    CUKAT     WHITE    yORTII 


drcatii}'  and  intense  slumlxT.  When  I  awoko,  my  k)ng 
Ix'ard  was  a  mass  of  ice  frozen  fast  to  the  l)iilfalo-skin  ; 
(iodfrey  had  to  cut  me  out  with  his  jaekknife.  Four  days 
after  our  esca])e,  1  found  my  woollen  eomfortakle  \vitli  a 
U'oodly  >hare  of  m\'  heard  >lill  adherin<i  to  it. 

"We  were  aiile  to  melt  water  and  .u'et  some  sou])  cooked 
before  the  i-e>t  of  oui'  ])arty  arrive(l  :  it  1(^ok  tliem  hut  fix'o 
hour.'-  to  walk  the  nine  miles.  They  were  doin,u'  well,  and, 
(•on-iderin,ii;  the  circumstances,  in  wonderful  spirits,  ddie 
da>'  was  most  ])rovidentiall\'  windle.-s.  with  a  ck'ar  sun.  All 
enjoy((l  the  I'efre-hment  we  had  ,u'ot  I'eady.  The  crippled 
were  re])acked  in  their  i-ohes  :  and  we  s])e(l  hji-kly  towai'di  the 
hummock-i'idLi'es  which  la\'  between  tis  and  the  Pinnacly 
kSeru-. 

■'Idle  hummocks  we  had  now  to  meet  came  ])ro])ei'ly  under 
the  de-iuiiation  of  s(jueeze(l  ice.  A  u.'reat  chain  of  heru's 
stretchinu'  from  northwe-t  to  southea>t,  moA'in.ii'  with  th(^ 
tide>,  had  compi'e»ed  the  surface-floe>  :  and.  rearin.U'  them 
U]^  on  their  ediix^-.  ])i'oduced  an  area  more  like  tln'  \'olcanie 
])eilrfu'al  of  the  ha-in  of  Mexico  than  anything-  el-('  I  can 
com])ai'e  it  to. 

"It  I'Cfiuil'ed  dc-])erate  effort-  to  Woi'k  oU!'  v»'ay  ovei'  it.  — 
liter;ill>'  de-pci'ate.  U>r  oui'  >l!'enulh  faih'd  u-  anew,  and  we 
lie!j.-;in  lo  lo-i'  our  ><'ll'-con1 1'ul.  W'c  could  not  ah-tain  au\' 
lotui'ei'  fi'om  eatinu'  -now;  our  moulh-  -welleil,  and  -ome  of 
u-  lM-r;tme  -pcechle--.  Happily  the  day  wa-  Warmed  by  a 
elf;ir  -un-iiiui'.  and  the  1  licruK  .meter  ro-e  to  ~\  in  the 
-h.-ide  :    ( )i  !icrwi-c  we  mii-t    ha\"i'  fruzcn. 

"I'ur  halt-  muhiiihi'd.  and  we  tell  half— Irejiinu'  on  the 
.-Iiiiw.  I  I'diild  hdl  pi'i'\-<-nl  U.  Stl'an^e  in  -ay,  it  i-rfri-hcd 
II-.  I  \"i'!itur(d  up<Ui  ihc  experiment  my-eh'.  makinu'  Rile\' 
\\'ake  !|||.  ai  the  end  n\  ihree  miiiut'--;  and  I  felt  -n  much 
beiiefi;  I'd  1  ,y  il  l|i;it  1  liliKM  1  1  he  men  il!  1  he  -anie  way.  They 
-at    on    the    runner-   of   tl:<'   -|e(loe,    I'.'ll    a-lei'p    in-'aiitly.    and 


EFVKCTS    OF    KXIIAI'S'IIOX    AM)    (OLD 


21-3 


were  I'oi'ccd  to  wakcfuhu^ss  when  their  three  minutes  were 
out.  H_\'  ei,<i;ht  in  tiie  eveniuii;  we  enier<i,'e(l  {'roiu  the  floes. 
The  -i.uht  of  the  Pinnaely  I^jer^u;  revived  us.  l^randy,  an  in- 
\-aluat)le  I'esoui'ce  in  enieriicncy,  had  already  Ix-en  served 
out  in  tal)lesp(.)ont'u!  dose.-.  W'e  now  took  a  lonj^er  rest,  and 
a  la>t  l)ut  stouter  <lrain,  and  reached  the  ])ri<>;  at  1  I'.M.,  wo 
believe  without  a  halt.  1  say  ire  Ixlure:  and  here  perhaps 
is  the  most  decided  ])roof  (jf  (jur  sui'ferin.u's  :  we  were  (|uite 
delirious,  and  had  ceased  to  entertain  a  sane  apprehensi(jn  of 
the  circumstances  about  us.  ^^'e  moved  on  like  men  in  a 
dream.  Our  footmarks  seen  afterwards  showed  that  we 
had  st(>ere(l  a  hee-line  for  the  briji,'.  It  nni>t  ria\'e  been  liy 
a  sort  of  instinct,  foi'  it  left  no  impress  on  the  memory.  Bon- 
sall  was  sent  rt a,u',ucrin_2;  ahead,  and  reached  the  bri<;\  dod 
know-  how.  for  he  had  fallen  i'e])eatedly  at  the  track-lines  ; 
but  he  d(-li\-ere<l  with  ])unctili(jus  accuracy  tlie  messa.U'cs  I 
luid  -eiit  l)y  him  to  Dr.  IIa\'es.  I  thouuht  myself  the  <ound- 
e-t  of  all,  for  1  went  throuuh  all  the  formula  of  >anily.  and  can 
recall  the  mutterin,<i'  delirium  of  my  conu'ades  when  we  <i'ot 
])ack  iii'o  the  cabin  of  our  i)ri,u'.  Vet  I  have  Ixn-n  told  since 
oi  .-ome  speeche<  ;md  some  orders,  too,  of  mine,  which  I  >lioiild 
liax'e  remembered  f(_»r  their  [d)surdit\'  if  my  mind  had  retained 
it-  balanc(\ 

'■J'eter<en  and  AVhi]')])le  came  out  to  meet  us  about  two 
mil''.-  fi'om  ihe  bi'ia.  They  brouu'ht  m\'  do<i'-team,  with  tlu.' 
i'e-toi'ati\'''<  I  had  sent  for  by  Bonsall.  T  d(.)  not  remember 
their  cominii,'.  I)i'.  Hayes  entei'ed  with  judicious  eneri>.-y  uyion 
the  treatment  oui'  condition  calh'd  foi'.  a.dmini.-tei'iivu'  mor- 
])i!iiie  freely,  aflei-  the  u-ual  fricliou-.  lie  rei^ortc'l  none  of 
oui'  bi'ain---\'ni])toni.<  a.-  -''riou-.  I'efei'rini!.'  them  ]M'()])crly  to  the 
(la,--  of  tho.-e  indications  of  exhau-ted  ])ower  which  yield  to 
.lieMi'i'oii-;  did  and  rest.  Mr,  ( *hl-en  <ullered  .-ome  time  from 
-tfabi-mu-  and  1  •.litiilne-<  :  two  o'her-  underwent  am|")Uta- 
tini!  of  j)art-  of  the  h)ot,   wilh.'Ut    unplea.-ant   con>e(iUence- ; 


214  THE    GREAT    WHITE    NORTH 

and  two  died  in  ^\)\{('  oi  all  our  i^l't'orts.  This  rescue  ]:)arty 
had  hccu  (.)Ut  lor  scvciil  y-l  \V(j  hours.  We  had  liaited  iu  aU 
ei<iht  hours,  hah'  of  our  nunii)er  sh'cping  at  a  tiiue.  W'e  trav- 
vW\\  l)et\veeu  eigldy  and  ninety  miles,  most  of  the  way  (lra,<2;- 
<i,in<j;  a  heavy  sled<2;e.  The  mean  tem])erature  of  the  whol(> 
time,  inchuhnii;  the  warmest  hours  oi'  thi-e(>  d;i,ys,  was  at 
—  IT'  2'.  W'e  had  no  water  except  at  oiu'  two  halls,  and  were 
at  no  time  ahl(>  to  iutei'mit  \'ig(.)rous  exercise  without  l'reezin<;'.'' 

Dr.  Jvane  writes,  April  \,  Tuesday  :  — 

"J''our  days  have  ])assed,  and  I  am  a,<i,'ain  at  my  I'ecord  of 
failur(>s,  sound,  hut  achinji  still  in  ever\'  joint.  The  I'escued 
men  ar(^  not  out  of  dan<i-er,  hut  their  ii2;ratitude  is  very  touchin,<i;. 
Pray  (iod  that  they  may  live  !"' 

Shoi'tly  aft(a-  these  ex'ents,  the  ship  was  \-isite(l  ])y  I^skimos, 
a  "i'ood-natured,  childlike  cojn])any,  who  disdained  such 
dainties  offered  h}'  the  crew  as  wheat  bi'cad,  corned  poi'k, 
and  lumps  of  white  suti,'ar,  hut  "i'or.uctl  themseh-es  on  beef  and 
])!ul)l)er.  ;ind  took  opportunit  \'  to  st(>al  whatever  they  could 
lay  their  lumds  on.  Dr.  Kane  ipurchased  all  the  walrus  nieat 
1he\'  had  to  spai'e  and  some  of  tlieir  (lot;s,  eni'ichin.ii  them  in 
return  with  needles  and  heads,  and  a  treasui'c  of  old  cask 
sta\'es.  l''ollowin,u' his  experience  wit  h  the  i^skimos.  Dr.  Ivaiie 
^■i\'es  an  aimi>iti,ii'  anecdoie  of  a  seal  hunt. 

■'()ii  one  occasion,"  lie  writes,  ''whih'  \vo!'kiii,ii'  my  \Xi\y 
toward  the  l->kimo  hut<.  I  saw  a  lar.u'e  f '.-■///,-  ha-kinji'  a>lee[i 
Uj)on  t  he  ice.  'I'akin^  off  my  shoes,  I  commenced  a  somewhat 
I'dVitid'alinii-  i)rocess  of  stalkin.u',  lyini;,-  upon  m\'  hel!\-  and 
crawiiii;;  alon.ii,-,  >lep  by  >tep,  behind  the  little  knob--  of  lloe. 
At  last,  wjien  !  was  within  Vnvj^  rifle-shot,  the  .animal  ,ua\-e 
a,  .-Iu,'i.L;,i>h  roll  lo  one  side,  an.d  suddenly  lil'led  his  lead. 
Till'  nioxi'inent  was  exidently  inde])endent  of  me.  tor  he 
strained  \\\<  neck  in  nearly  the  op])o<ite  dii'eclion.  Then,  ioi' 
the  fii'-i  lime,  1  loimd  th.al  I  had  ;i  I'lx'al  se.ai-hunl  ei'  in  a  lar^c 
bear,  who  wa>  on  hi^  belly  like  myself,  waitin.u,  wit  h  commend- 


7;/.'.     KAyE\S    JOCRNEY  215 

able  patience  and  cold  feet  for  a  chance  of  nearer  approach. 
'AMiat  should  1  do?  —  the  bear  was  doubtless  worth  more  to 
nie  than  the  seal  ;  but  the  seal  was  now  within  shot,  and  the 
l)ear  a  bird  in  tlie  bush  !  Besides,  my  bullet  once  invested 
in  tlie  seal  ^^'<)uld  leave  mc^  defenceless.  I  miglit  l)e  giving 
a  dinner  to  a  ])car,  and  saving  myself  for  his  dessert.'  These 
meditations  were  soon  l)rought  to  a  close  ;  for  a  secojid  move- 
m(>nt  of  the  seal  so  aroused  my  hunter's  instincts  that  I  pulled 
the  trigg(>r.  ^Nly  cap  alone  exploded.  Instantly  with  a 
floundei-ing  s])lash,  the  seal  descended  into  the  de(^]i,  and  the 
bear,  with  three  or  four  rapid  leaps,  stood  (hsconsolately  by 
the  ])lace  of  his  d(>scent.  For  a  single  mouKnit  we  stared 
eacli  other  in  the  face,  and  then,  with  that  discretion  which  is 
the  b(>tter  part  of  A"alor,  the  bear  ran  off  in  one  direction,  and 
I  followed  his  exam])le  in  the  othei'." 

Toward  the  (aid  of  April,  Dr.  Kane  had  completed  his  prep- 
arations for  his  grand  sledg(>  journey  to  the  north. 

■'It  was,"  h(>  writes,  ''to  b(>  the  ci'owning  expcflition  of  the 
cani])aign  to  attain  the  uliit/ia  tJiulc  of  the  Clreenland  shoi'e, 
measui'c  the  wastc^  tluit  hxy  between  it  and  the  unknown  west, 
and  seek  roiuid  the  fuith(-st  circle  of  the  ice  for  an  outlet  to 
t!ie  mysterious  chaiUK^ls  beyond." 

"The  woist  thought  I  lia\'e  now  in  settin.g  out,"  writes  Dr. 
Kan*',  Aiii'il  2(),  ''is  tk.at  of  the  entii'c  crew  I  can  leave  but  two 
behii'.d  in  id)!e  condition,  ami  the  doctor  and  Bonsall  are  the 
onl\'  two  oflicei's  who  can  hel]:)  Ohlsen.  This  i<  our  foi'ce, 
four  alile-bodie(l  and  >ix  di<abI(Ml  to  keej)  tla^  brig  ;  th(>  com- 
mander and  seven  men.  scarcely  better  u])on  the  avca-age, 
out  u])on  the  ice.  Eighteen  souls,  thank  (!od!  certainl}'  not 
eighteen  bodies  ! 

"I  ;im  going  this  time  to  follow  Hie  ice-belt  ^'Ei-^-fixl)  to  tlie 
(b-eat  ( ilacic!"  of  Humboldt .  ami  tliere  lo;id  U]i  with  ]ienunican 
fr(.)m  our  cache  of  last  October,  b'rom  this  ])oint  I  ex])ect  to 
stretch  along  the  face  of  the  glacier  inclinin"'  to  the  west  of 


i^it; 


Tiir:  ',i;i:at    wiirri:   XDirni 


north,  and  make  an  attcii]])!  to  ci'oss  the  ice  of  the  Ainci'icaii 
,<i(lc.  ( )iicc  on  smooth  ice.  ncai'  this  shoi'c,  1  may  ])ass  to  the 
Avc.-l,  and  ontcr  the  lariiv  indentation  \vhos(>  exi.-tenee  I  can 
infer  with  ncai'ly  j)ositi\'e  eei-tainty.  In  this  I  may  find  an 
e)Utlct,  and  determine  tlie  state  of  thinjis  l)e\-(.)nd  tiie  iee- 
eh-uucd  area  of  this  hay. 

"  I  take  with  me  ])ennnican  and  bread  and  tea,  a  canvas  tent, 
{i\"e  hy  -ix.  and  two  >le(])iim-l  tap.-  of  [■(■inth'cr  skin.  The  ^lediic 
has  keen  kuiU  on  hoard  \ty  Mi'.  ()hl<en.  It  is  yny  liiih.t.  of 
hickory,  and  hut  nine  ieet  lon,^.  ( )ur  kitclien  i>  a  .-onp  ketth' 
for  mehinii'  snow  and  maivina,'  t(^a.  arran.iLcd  so  a-  to  hoil  with 
eithei'  kird  or  >!)irits. 

"I'or  in>ti'uments  I  ]ia\'e  a  fine  (kiin'oey  sextant,  in  adiH- 
tion  to  my  orikmary  ]M)clve1-in^t  I'ument .  an  artificial  horizon, 
and  a  ]]arrow">  (hp-circle.  d'he>e  occupy  little  room  u])on  the 
.'-le(lu('.  ]\Iy  telesco]X'  and  chronometer  I  carr\'  on  my  per- 
S(ni."" 

Ill  efiui])])ed.  enfeel)led  in  health.  di>coura^u'e(l  ky  the  faihire 
of  t  lieii'  caches  which  had  keen  ln'oken  into  ky  kear>.  the  lit  tie 
])ai'ly  St  I'lmulei!  on  a-  lnmi,-  a-  stren,uth  an<l  ])i'o\'i^ioir-  lasii'(l. 
'"ddie  mo^t  picturescjue  ])ortion  of  the  North  ( ii'cenland 
coa-t.'"  write-  I)i'.  Kane,  "i-  to  ke  h)und  aftei'  !ea\"itm'  ('a])e 
(c'oi'ii'e  l{u->ell  anil  appi'oacliitiLi  Dalla-  kkay.  The  re(l  sand- 
stones c()iiti-;i-t  mo-t  i'a\'orak|y  will,  the  klank  \\iiitene-s, 
a--ocia,t  inu'  the  cold  tinl.-  ol'  t!;e  dre;ir\'  Arctic  land>cape  with 
the  warm  coloi'in'i  of  moi'e  .-miihern  lands.  The  >ea>on-  ka\'e 
a'Mi'd  on  ihe  different  layei'-  (»f  the  r]\\'\  -o  as  to  ui\'e  them  the 
.ajipearance  of  jointed  ma--om'y.  and  the  nari'ow  line  ol  iii'immi- 
s!o!i  '  ai  the  top  cap-  them  with  well--innilated  katilem.ent-. 
<  Mie  of  tli,.^,-   intere-tinu'   freak-  of  nature   kecanie  known   to 

i!-   a-    I  he    ''khree    1  iri  it  her   Turcel  -.' 

"'khc  -lo])ino'  I'ukki-li  al  ihe  toot  of  t!;e  coa-t -wall  led  up, 
like  ;in  arkifieial  ca  u-ewa  \',  !o  ,a  liorne  that  wa-  -ti'eamum'  at 
noondaX'    with    tlie    -outliel'tl    >mi  :     while    e\'e|-\'where   el.-e    the 


CHEAT    (iLAilKll     OF    II  rMIKjLDT  217 

rock  stood  oul  ill  the  blackest  shadow.  Just  at  tlic  (mI^c  of 
the  l)right  opening  rose  tlie  ch-eaniy  senil)lance  of  a  casile, 
Hanked  witli  trii)l(^  towers,  completel}'  isohited  and  defined. 
These  wer(^  tlie  "Three  Bi'otlier  Turrets.' 

''I  was  stiU  more  struck  with  another  of  the  same  sort, 
in  the  inunethate  neigliborhood  of  my  lialting  ground  beyond 
S'anny  Ciorg(>,  to  the  north  (jf  latitude  79°.  A  single  cliff  of 
green  stone,  marked  by  the  slaty  limestone  that  once  encased 
i;,  rears  itself  from  a  crumbled  base  oi  sandstones,  like  the 
b(jldl}-  cliiselled  ramjiart  of  an  ancient  city.  At  its  northern 
extremity,  on  th(>  brink  of  a  dee])  raviiK^  which  has  worn  its 
wa}'  among  the  ruins,  there  stands  a  solitar\'  column  or  min- 
aret-towei-.  as  shar])ly  finislied  as  if  it  liad  b(>en  cast  hjr  tlie 
Place  \'endome.  Yet  the  length  of  the  shaft  alone  is  h^ur 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  :  and  it  rises  on  a  plinth  or  ped(\<tal 
itself  two  Inmdred  and  eighty  feet  high." 

But  by  far  tlie  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  Clreat  "White 
Xorth  visite<l  by  Dr.  Kane  was  tlie  '"Tli-eat  Cdaciei'  of  Hum- 
boldt." "I  will  not  attem])t  to  do  better  b\'  florid  descrip- 
tion," he  write-.  "'[Men  only  rhaps(.)dize  alniut  Xiagara  and 
tlie  oc(^an.  Afy  notes  speak  >in!])ly  of  the  '  long  e^■ershining 
line  of  clilT  dimini>hed  to  a  well-pointed  wedge  in  the  per- 
s])ecti\'(''  ;  and  again,  of  'the  face  of  gli-tening  ice,  swee])ing 
in  a  long  cur^'e  from  the  low  interior,  the  facets  in  front 
intensely  illuminaie<l  l)y  the  sun."  But  thi>  line  rjf  cliff  rosc^ 
in  -olid  gla>.-\'  wall  three  hundri'd  feet  abo\-e  the  wat<'r-level, 
with  an  miknown,  unfathomable  (le])th  l)elow  it  ;  and  its 
curved  face,  sixty  mile>  in  length  from  C'a])e  Aga»iz  to  ("ajie 
]''orbes,  \"ani>hed  into  unknown  <])ace  at  not  more  than  a  >ingie 
day">  railroad  tra\'el  from  the  Pole.  The  interior  ^\^\x\\  which 
it  communicateil,  and  from  which  it  i--ue(!.  \vas  an  tmsur- 
\"eye<!  incr  dc  tjlucc.  an  ice-ocean,  to  the  eye  of  boundlos 
dimensions. 

'"It    was   in   full   siuht  —  the  mii;,ht\-   cr\'>tal   bridii'e   v/hich 


21  (S  THE    (.'HEAT     WHITE    NOJITH 

coiiiiccts  th<'  two  coiiliiicnts  of  AnuM'ica  and  Circfnland.  I 
say  cont  iiiciils.  foi'  ( Ircciilaiul,  lio\V('\'('i'  insulated  it  may  ulti- 
mately ])ro\'e  to  he,  is  in  ma>s  strict  1\-  continental.  Its  last 
])os-i!)le  axis,  mea>ured  from  ('a])e  I'"ai-e\vell  to  the  liii(>  of 
this  <ilaciei',  in  the  nei,uhl)orhood  of  the  ei.u'litieth  ])arallel, 
gives  a  length  (.)f  moic  than  tv,'el\-e  hundred  miles,  —  not 
matei-ially  less  tluui  that  of  Au>ti'alia  from  its  noT'thern  to  its 
soutliei'n  ca])e.  Imagine  now  the  centi'c  of  such  a  continent, 
occu])ied  thi'ough  neai'ly  its  wh(.)le  extent  hy  a  dee])  mibi'oken 
sea  of  ice,  that  gathers  ])erennial  increase  from  the  v\'ater-she(l 
of  vast  sn.ow-covered  mountain.-,  and  all  the  ])reci])itation  of 
the  atmos])here  u])(/n  it-  ov\'n  >ui'l'a.ce.  Lnagine  this  mo\'ing 
onward  like  a  gi'cat  glacial  ri\'ei',  seeking  outlets  at  every 
fiord  and  \'all(y,  rolling  icy  ca.tai'acts  and  h.ax'ing  at  last 
reached  the  noiihern  limit  of  the  land  that  has  borne  it  u]), 
])our!Mg  out  a  mighty  frozen  torrent  into  unknown  Arctic 
s])ace. 

"It  is  thiis,  and  only  thu.s,  that  we  nnist  form  a  just  con- 
cei)tion  of  a  ])henonieiU)n  like  thi-  (  U'cat  ( ilaciei'.  I  had 
looked  in  my  i)\\\\  iiiind  lor  sucli  an  a];])earance.  sliould  1  e\'er 
he  foi't  un.ale  enough  to  I'cach  t  he  no!''  Iierii  coa>t  ol'  ( ireenland. 
Hut,  now  that  it  was  hefore  me.  I  could  hardly  realize  it.  I 
had  recogiiized  in  my  (|uiet  library  at  home,  the  beautiful 
analogic-  wiiirh  l-'oi'bes  and  Studicn  h;i\'e  develo))e(l  between 
the  glacier  ;;nd  1  he  !'i\i'r.  1)U1  I  could  not  conipr'chend  at  tii'st 
thi~  co!i!i)|fjc  -uh-t  it  ui  ion  of  ice  I'm'  watef. 

"li  \\';i-  -iowly  that  the  con\iclion  da^\'ned  on  me  th.at  I 
wa-  loo!\i!Ui'  Ujion  the  countei'i);i!'t  !>('  the  gi'eat  lix'C!-  -y,-lem  of 
Ai'etii'  .\-!a  and  America.  \  (•{  liei'c  -were  no  w;!lef-!eedei  s 
ironi  tiie  -iiiith.  lA'cry  particle  of  moi.-1ure  h:id  it<  origin 
wi!l:iii  till'  poK'i!'  circle.  ;nid  liad  bciii  cons'cried  into  ice. 
ThiTe  \\i  11  11(1  \-;i-l  ;illii\i()!!-.  Do  foie-l  Ol'  anlncil  lr;ice-  liorne 
dnw  n  i  y  liouiii  toiTent-.  Ilei'c  vr;i-  a  jda-lic.  mining,  -(-mi- 
solid  ma.-~.  ( (bill  (■r;P  iiig  life,  -w;dlowing  rocks  and  i>lajids,  and 


UETURX    AND    1LLM:s,S    UF    DR.     KANE  219 

pl()nji;hin<i;  its  way  with  irresistible  mai'cli  tlirouj2;h  the  crust 
of  an  iuvc.^i  iiiti'  sea." 

\W  May  "),  Or.  Kane  became  d(>Urious  and  fainted  every 
time  he  was  taken  from  tlie  tent.  '"^ly  conn'ades  would 
kind!}'  persuade  me  that,  even  had  I  continued  sound,  we 
(H)ui<l  not  luu'e  ])roceeded  on  our  journey.  The  snows  AVere 
very  luavx',  and  increa.sint;-  as  we  went  ;  s(jme  of  the  drifts 
])(n'feetl\'  im])assaf)lt',  and  tlu^  level  tioes  oft(>n  foiu'  feet  deep 
in  yielding;  snow.  The  scurv\'  had  alrc^ady  broken  out  among 
the  ?nen.  with  symjUoms  like  m\'  ov»'n  ;  and  Morton,  our 
stron.u'est  man,  was  ])e,a;innin<>;  to  ,a,ive  way. 

"Il  is  the  rcA'erse  of  comfort  io  me  that  they  shared  my 
wi-aknes-.  All  tliat  1  could  rememlx^'  with  pl(\asural)le  feel- 
in^i!,-  is,  that  to  fi\'e  brave  men,  Alorton,  Kiley,  Ilicke}',  Ste- 
])hen>(>n.;ind  Ilans,  tliemselves  scarcely  able  to  tra\'el,  I  owe 
my  ])res(>rvation.  They  carried  m(,'  l)ack  by  forced  marches, 
after  cacliinii,'  our  stores  and  India-rubber  boat  near  Dallas 
Bay.  in  lat.  7*)°  .')',  long.  ()()°." 

.■^uch  was  the  "'faihii'e"  of  the  (Iraiid  Expedition  ! 

Tlie  gentle  iiand  of  summer  now  extend(>(l  mucli-needed 
rebuff  to  tlie  stricken  crew.  Seals  began  to  a])i)ear  and  in 
such  large  numbers  that  there  was  no  want  of  fresh  meat, 
wliich  worked  wonders  in  the  heahli  of  those  ^utTering  with 
scurv\'.  Snow-buntings  and  gulls  aaid  eider-ducks  came  wing- 
ing th''!!'  \\a\'  to  their  nortli(^rn  breedinu-  ])kices—  and  tlie  warm 
Sim  brought  out  the  welcome  verdui'c  wit  h  marvellous  ra])idity. 

Dr.  Kane"-  ln-altli  improve(l,  but  lie  was  ()l)liged  to  giv(i 
u])  furtiicr  sl(dg(>  ji^e.rneys.  To  Dr.  TIayes  was  intrusteil  a 
journ.ey  ii^i  which  he  reacluMl  tlie  o]i])osite  coast  of  (irinnell 
Land,  wliich  lie  ^;a■\•^•yed  as  far  as  (*a])e  Frazcr.  On  June  1, 
?\lo]'1(.)n  let't  tiic  b'fig  with  Ibms,  tiie  K.-kimo,  foi'  the  jMitpose 
of  sur\-eying  tiie  (Ireenkmd  coast  beyond  the  Ilumboldt 
(ilaciir.  The  lalcnes^  of  the  season  rendered  nmch  of  the 
ice  extremch-  tmsafe. 


:J_'<!  Tin:  (jukat    wii/ti-:   xoirrif 

(h\  .IniM'  2t).  Is.")!.  Alorloii  rcachcfl  the  hold  hcadhuHl  of 
(  'ape  (  'oii-linilioii.  where  ihc  >url'  (hished  >o  I'urii^ii-l}'  aji;aiiist 
ihe  hitih.  o\-e!'haiiii;iiiu  ehf't'-,  that  further  progress  was  iinpos- 
sihie.  (  liinhiiiL!,  from  roek  lo  rock,  in  the  ho])e  of  fiii(lin«i.'  a 
pa--,  lie  .-tood  at  la>t  at  a  hei;i.ht  of  threi'  hundi'ed  fe('t  and 
looked  out  u])on  a  ^reat  wa.-te  of  water.-,  st  I'etchin.u.'  a-  far  as 
the  (-ye  could  reach  into  the  unknown  north.  Ahout  him  the 
flock-  of  .-ea-.-Wallows,  kittiwakes,  and  hrent-ji'ef'se  hhaided 
their  di-cordant  note-  with  the  tliunderou>  i'()ll  of  the  sea. 
I'Vom  ('ai)e  ( 'on.-titution  the  coast  of  \\'a>hin,uton  Land 
trended  to  the  east,  hut  far  \i)  the  norlhwe.-t.  heyond  the  open 
water-  of  tlie  cliann('l.  a  peak  1(-rminatin,u'  a  I'an.U'c  of  moini- 
tain-  wa-  .-een  towering'  at  a  heiiiht  of  JVom  lwenty-h\'e  Inm- 
dred  to  three  thousand  feet,  and  thi-  remote  landmark 
recel\-eil  tiic  nanie  of  Mount  Parry.  On  tlu'  2r)th  of  Jime, 
.Aloi'ton  conunenced  his  I'eturn  and  reached  the  hri.u-  on  the 
lOlh  of  .Inly.  "  >t;iu,-.u-erin,ii-  I  .y  the  .-ide  of  the  lim])in,u-  do.u's, 
oni'  of  wliich  Wa-  ridinu'  ;is  a  ])a>-enu('r  upon  the  .-l('(iue."' 

.Meanwiiile,  the  hrief  .-unniier  wa-  r;i])idl\'  waninu';  there 
>e!'med  no  ])i-omi-''  of  the  ice  1  irealciiia  u]).  and  the  alarming 
pi'o-peci  of  ]);i--in:i:  a  .-econd  wiiiter  in  the  ice  lorce(l  it>(-lt 
upon  I  he  .uallant  coainiander  and  hi-  hra\'e  and  >uffei'in,<i'  cri'W. 

"W'e  h:i\"e  no  coal  fol'  a  -ecoin!  \\-inter  here."  he  A\'rin--: 
"our  -lock  of  fre-h  ]iro\"i-io!i-  i-  utlei'ly  e\hau-ted  ;  and  our 
-ick  neeil  chanu'c.  ;■>  e--ential   to  thi  if  reco\-ery.'" 

.\n  un-ucce--ful  aiiempi  wa<  made  to  reach  Sir  Ivlward 
Pjclcher'-  -riuad.ron  a'    P>efc!ie\-   I-Iand. 

•■The  :a-a-on  ira\-e|.~  on."  write-;  Dr.  K'ane  on  Auuu-t  1  o ; 
"the  youn'z  ice  oTdw-..  tjiicker.  and  ni\'  me— male-"  iace-  crow 
loM-'-r  i'\-i'!-y  da;/.  1  ha\'f  aiiain  to  pla\'  huffoon  to  kecj)  ilj) 
tl:c  -nirit-  of   the   parl>-.      A  ra\-oii  !     d'lie  -nowhird-  lu'uin  to 

i]v  to  t  he  -I  .i;i  !:   in   uroal)-.  col  1 1  j  M 'J.'  a  t    liiuiit    to  oUl'  hl-ili'  to  ho\'(T 

on    ti.''   .'iu'^inu.      Winte)-  i-   huri'yinu'  upon   u-.      Tic  ])o])})ies 
arc  (1  lilt  I-  wilt  I'd." 


RETrnx  Ayn  illxess   of  dr.    ka\k        -l-ll 

Two  (Uiys  h\{ev  \V('  find  {\w  ontry  :  — 

"In  fivo  (hiys  the  s])i-in<i  tides  conic  })ack  :  should  \xv  fail 
in  ])assins  with  tlu^ni,  I  think  our  f()rtun(\s  arc  fix(Hl.  Tlu> 
young  icf  boi'c  a  man  this  morning:  it  had  a  bad  look,  this 
man-su])i)orting  August  ice  !  The  temperature'  ncn'cr  falls 
below  2S°  ;    but  it  is  cold  o'  nights  with  no  fire."' 

"August  IS,  Fi-iday,"  he  writes,  "reduced  our  allowance 
of  wood  to  six  pounds  a  metd.  This,  among  eighteen  mouths, 
is  one-third  of  a  ])ound  of  fuel  each.  It  allows  uscoffee  twice 
a  day,  and  sou])  once.  Our  fare  b(>si(l(>s  this  is  cold  ])ork 
l)oile(l  in  (]uantity  and  cniten  as  requii'(Ml.  This  sort  of  thing 
works  badly  ;  l)ut  I  nuist  save  coal  for  other  (>mergencies. 
I  see  'darkness  ahead'  ! 

"I  inspected  the  ice  again  to-day.  Bad  !  Bad  !  —  I  must 
look  another  winter  in  tlie  fac(\  I  do  not  shrink  from  the 
thought,  but.  while  ^\o  have  a  chance  ahead,  it  is  my  first  duty 
to  have  all  things  in  I'eadiness  to  meet  it.  It  is  horrible  — 
yes,  that  is  the  word  —  to  look  forward  to  another  year  of 
disease  and  darkness  to  be  met  without  fresh  food  and  without 
fuel.  I  should  meet  it  with  a  mon^  tcMUjx^-ed  sadness  if  I 
had  no  conu'ades  to  think  h)r  and  jirotect." 

"August  20.  Sunday.  —  liest  for  all  hands.  The  daily 
prayer  is  no  longer  'Lord,  acc(^]it  our  gratitude  and  bless  our 
unihn'taking,'  but.  'Lord,  accej^t  our  gratitude  and  restore 
us  to  our  liomes.'  The  ice  shows  no  change  ;  aftei'  a  boat  and 
foot  joui'n(\v  around  tlie  entii'c  southeast(M'n  c'ar\'e  of  the  ba\', 
no  signs  I" 

The  future  looked  so  gloomy,  and  Dr.  Kane's  a])])reh(M"ision 
for  th(>  ultimate  sah>ty  of  his  ]nu'ty  was  so  grav(\  tliat  he  deter- 
mincnl  to  enM't  a  cairn  in  a  cons))icu()us  sjiot  u])on  a  cliff  look- 
inu;  out  upon  tli(^  ic}'  des(>rt,and  on  a  broad  face  of  r(jck  the 
words  — 

"  .\d\'ance 

"A.D.  LS-liWH" 


THE    (illEAT    WHITE    XOHTII 


\\-{-vi-  ]);iiii1cil  ill  letters  wliieh  foiild  1  »(>  re;i(l  at  a  distanco.  A 
])yraiiiiil  of  heavy  <t()iie<  ))ereli(>(l  al»()\-e  it,  \\"as  iiiai'keil  wi;li 
the  ( 'hri.-tiai!  -yinhol  <n  the  cro.— .  •'It  \v;i.-  not  without  a 
holiei'  M'litimeiit  than  tiiat  of  mere  iitilit\'  that  1  ])!;!(•(■([  ini(U'r 
thi>  tlie  (•()(!;!!-  of  our  two  ])oor  eomraiie-.  It  \\'a-  our  l)eac<»ii 
aii'l  their  ,U'ra\'e>t(JiH'.  Xeai'  tiii<  a  hole  Wa-  \voi-kfil  \]\H)  the 
I'oef:,  aU'-l  a  ])a.])er,  euehj.-c-d  in  ,ula-s.  >e;ile(l  in  \vilh  meli(,[ 
le;ul.  Thi-  ])ap('r  (•(jiila.iiKit  a  eai'eful  rc'cord  oi  tla-  expiMliiiou 
tl])  to  ilate. 

•"Tiie  uie.Miory  of  the  fir-t  wirite]'  (juau'ter<  of  Sir  John  I-"i'anl-;- 
lin.  ami  the  ])ainful  f^'f  l!nix>  wvAi  wiiieh,  Avhile  -tamlinu;  hy 
the  o-raves  of  hi-  ile;iil.  I  ha'l  fi\'e  yar<  hefiji'e  souu'ht  f(jr 
written  -iirn-  j)ointiiiLr  to  the  fate  of  tiu-  Ii\"inL!:.  i]ia<h'  nie 
(•;iri  nil  io  a^'oi'l  a  -iinilar  ne^ileet." 

^  )n  Auu'U-t  21.  th<-  la-t  ho;i.'  of  liof-rat  inu'  the  A-r-^-f'!  van- 
i-hfil.  aJi'l,  ealliiiU'  hi-  eitfie.  r-  ami  erev."  tout-ther.  Dr.  Kane 
(■xnh'iin.'il  To  til ^-111  t h''  full  m'a\'!!y  of  the  .-ii  nation,  anil  1  liouu'h 
hf-  wa-  fully  ■al'-rniiiico.  to  -taU'l  1  e.'  the  \^v\'s  :_[\-A  h^lt  that  an 
atten!])tril  I'l'lreat  to  the  -I'li  h-,ei''nt  of  r])enia\-ifc  -o  late  in 
th(-  -"ii-on  woul'i  eert:hnl\'  fail,  he  n"\'ertheh-<  'd.wvr  ]\]>  I'ull 
])fr;ni--io!i  to  tho-c  'ii'-iiiin:  to  li'a\'e.  au'l  th"  ]")ro!ni-c  of 
a     !)ro'hi-i''-    w"leoni!',    -houM    ^h'^y    he   (lri\-i-n    iia''k.      The 

roll  Wa-  l!:"n  e;ille.l.  aU'l  .i.iht  of  the  inen  ou'  o*'  ihc  -eA-i'Hl  r-f'ii 
si;r\-!vo;'-  i,f  the  ])''rty  vi  ilu'it ''i-ri-il  to  reinain  in  thi'  -hi]'). 
T'le  re-t  uiaj'i'  ?'eai!y  1o  ah.'inJon  \.i'\\  anil  wi'h  a  i:'i'nerou< 
(!i\-:-io:i  m!"  -t,,ri'-  ;!i!:|  ai)!)li:i!ii'i'-  ]>■■'.'  lhr  -hh)  on  iln'  2^t>:. 
"Ttie  i);i!ay  niox'ei]  n'i\  wiili  ijic  -i::-'!^  -''T)  of  nict!  confiilent 
in  ih''ii'  '  v;viii )-.-.  aU'l  W'l'i-  OU'   i.f  -iu'ht   in  a  fi'\\'  hou!'-," 

]{'ihic<-il  U:  !iuni!  .'■!•-.  i:i;Uiy  of  ihdn  h'-JDii--,  thf  waiiiiiti 
ejii-i'  i!i'\' '  if  all.  '■onihin-i !  wi'ii  thi'  inineni  JinL^  v/ijit  cv  (j.irl.iK--- 


i!v'    i-o 


.,,;,! 


:1  -UMoi\-  I.:  -u-.l  am!  -UMj-e-.  1i  mli-ii  -Uly  i,, 

!    LiTo'ui    'i;'   M'-oairin'j    I'nii.      Ie:'    '!;'ir    ihiri-inil 

.  '■'  \]\y\\\'S  ■  i^i'  1 .1'l'i'  '"y  ot  Uiieio  ha'  '■  ai-'  Ion,  imt 
a!:  '  aU'i-.  -ii'h  aU'i  wi!!.  lo  \'-o:-i^  :.rci  .n  hnn-  ;,,  ih.-ii-  -;  r-uLii  f!, 
in  oi'i'!  i;;  r;:;  a  lU  ut  t  hi'  ,:  ■  .i  ^ri  >:<'■'•  .:\\'i  of  win'  i^r. 


SECOXD     W INT  El  I    IN    THE    ICE  223 

Dr.  Kane  luul  made  a  careful  study  of  the  Eskimos,  and  had 
come  to  th(>  wise  conchision  tliat  their  f(jrm  of  habitations 
and  tlunr  jXH'uUar  (het,  minus  th(>ir  unthrift  and  filth,  was  the 
safest  and  ))est  method  of  existence  under  the  unusual  cir- 
cmnstances  of  an  Arctic  winter.  He  tlu^'cfore  (k^termincHl 
to  borrow  a  lesson  from  the  natives  and,  as  far  as  possible, 
turn  the  bri^  into  an  igloe.  The  (|uarter-deck  was  padded 
down  with  moss  and  turf,  so  as  to  form  a  nearly  cold-i)roof 
coverinii.  Below  a  si)ace  some  (d^htc^en  feet  scjuare  was 
pa(dc(xl  from  floor  to  ceiling  witli  imier  Avails  of  the  same  ma- 
terial. The  iloor  was  carefully  calkcxl  with  plast(^r-of-Paris 
and  common  ])aste,  covered  a  cou])le  of  inches  deep  with 
Alanila  oakum,  and  carpeted  with  canvas.  A  low  moss- 
linen  I  tunn(d  was  arranged  to  connect  with  the  hold,  and 
divida'd  with  as  many  doors  and  ctu'tains  as  possible  to  keep 
otit  tlie  cold  draughts. 

Larg(>  banks  of  snow  were  also  th.rown  up  along  the  brig's 
sides  to  k(H^]i  olf  the  cold  wind.  Tlu^se  arduous  labours  in  the 
open  au'  greatly  improved  tlu^  health  and  spirits  of  the  men. 

Int(M-course  with  the  Eskimos  at  tlu^  winter  settlements 
of  J-]tah  and  Ancxttok,  distant  some^  thirty  and  s(n'enty  miles, 
led  to  a  trc^iity  by  AA'hich  the  Eskimos,  for  such  presents  as 
needl(>s.  ])ins.  and  knives,  (mgaged  to  furnish  walrus  and  fresh 
S(>al  meat,  to  ih(>  shl]).  (VHinnon  hunting  parties  were  or- 
ganizeil.  and  the  white  men  were  (lii'CH'tcnl  by  tlu^  natives  where 
to  hnd  the  game.  To  thes(^  suijjdies  of  fresh  meat,  Kane  and 
\\\<  (■om])ani()ns  owed  their  sah'ation,  and  X\\c  Eskimos  on 
theii-  i)art  l(>ai'U(Ml  l(j  regard  the  white  men  as  th(>ir  bene- 
factors. a!i(l  siricei'ciy  niourncMl  their  d(>partiu'(\ 

P)elor(^  the  darknes.-^  came  on,  Dr.  Kane  again  iK^arly  lost 
his  life  in  an  attempt  to  s(>cure  a  seal  — Avhile  out  in  \\\v  ict\ 
I^an■^  tiad  just  ci'led  out,  "' Pusri/ .'  pK.^ci/ n/id  !  s(-al  '  seal!" 
''At  tli(^  same  instant."  wi'it(^s  I)r.  Kane,  "the  dogs  bound(Ml 
forward,  and,  as  I  looked  up,  I  saw  crowds  of  gra}'  nctsik, 


224  TIIK    aUKAT    WHITE    NOllTH 

the  rouuli  or  lii-])i(l  seal  of  tlic  whalers  (li.-])ortins  in  an  open 
sea  o(    w'alcr." 

■"I  luul  liai'illy  wclc(»iiu'(l  tlic  s])cclaclc  when  I  saw  that  we 
had  ])asse(l  u])on  a  new  heh  of  ice  that  was  oi)\-iously  unsafe. 
To  the  riuht  and  l(ft  and  front  was  one  ^reat  ex])an.-e  of  >now- 
flo\\-ei'ed  ice.  Tlie  n(-arest  .-ohd  floe  was  a  niei'c  lunij),  which 
st(jod  like  an  i>land  in  the  white  le\-el.  To  turn  was  ini])(js- 
-ihle  :  we  luul  Xo  kee])  u])  our  ^ait.  ^^'e  urged  on  the  dogs 
with  whi])  [ind  voice,  the  ice  rolling  like  leather  l)eneath  the 
sledge-runnel--  ;  it  was  nioi'e  than  a  mile  to  the  luni])  of  solid 
ice.  Fear  g;ive  to  the  ])oor  beasts  their  utmost  s])(>ed,  and 
our  \-(.)ic(s  were  .-oon  hu-iicd  t(_)  >ilence. 

"Thi-  sus])ense,  unrelie\-e(l  hy  action  or  efforts,  was  intoler- 
ahle;  we  knew  that  there  was  no  remedy  but  to  reach  the 
floe,  and  that  e\'er\-thing  rh-jx-nded  U])C)n  our  dogs,  and  our 
dogs  alone.  A  moment's  check  A\'otild  ])lunge  the  whole 
c(_)nc('rn  into  the  i'a])id  tidcwa}';  no  ])re-eMcc  of  mind  or 
resource,  iiodil\'  or  mental,  c(ju!d  avail  us.  Idie  seals — for 
we  W('re  now  near  enough  to  sec  their  ex|)ressi\-(-  faces  —  were 
lookinu'  at  us  \\\\\\  that  >ti'anu('  curio>it\'  winch  seems  to  be 
their  characteristic  e.\])res>ion  :  we  niu>t  liave  jiassetl  .--ome 
fifty  of  them,  bre;t>t-high  out  (.)f  water,  mocking  u>  by  their 
self-ronij)l;iccticy. 

"  Thi-  ilc,-|)cr;itc  rac('  agaiii>t  fate  could  not  1, a- 1  :  the  rolling 
of  tlie  touiih  >alt-\\'at  I'r  ice  teri'ificd  our  dou- :  and  when 
within  fit'ty  i)ac(--  tVoni  the  f!oc.  they  ])au>cd.  The  left-hand 
rumicr  W'-tit  thi'ouLih:  oiu'  lc;u!ci'  ■Too(|lamick"  tolJowfMl. 
and  in  one  .-('CMnd  llu-  entii'e  left  nl'  tlie  sle(lue  wa-  >ubniei'ge<l. 
My  til'-t  ll;o;i'ihl  W;t.-  to  jilier.'ite  the  iloU'-.  I  leaned  forward 
to  ent  j)ooi'  ■Tood'>'  trace-,  niid  the  next  minute  w,m-  -wim- 
niini:'  in  ;i  little  <  ir-'le  of  p.'i^'>'  iee  ;uid  w;iter  ahmii-ide  him. 
I  l;in-.  d';ir  1:001 !  f-ljow.  drew  inMr  to  he]])  inc.  ut  t  erinii'  ])iteou> 
e\pr'-don-  in  iiroken  I-ingh-li  :  but  I  ordered  him  to  tlu'ow 
hiin-eh"'  on  hi-  'oeHx'  witli  hi-  h.-ui'l.-  aiHi  leers  extended,  and  to 


I.   I.  11ayi> 


PEIVATTONS    AND    SUFFER  TNG  S  225 

make  for  the  islaiid  by  cogging  him.self  forward  with  his  jack- 
knife.  In  the  meantime  —  a  mere  instant  —  I  was  flounder- 
ing al)()ut  with  sledge,  dogs,  and  lines,  in  a  confused  puddle 
aroimd  me. 

"l  succeeded  in  cutting  poor  Tood's  lines  and  letting  him 
scramble  to  the  ice,  for  the  poor  fellow  was  drowning  me  with 
his  })iteous  caresses,  and  made  my  Avay  for  the  sledge  ;  but  I 
found  tluit  it  would  not  buoy  me,  and  that  I  had  no  resource 
but  to  try  the  circumference  of  the  hole.  Around  this  I 
paddled  faithfully,  the  miserable  ice  always  yielding  when  my 
hop(\-  of  a  lodgment  were  greatest.  During  this  process,  I 
eulargetl  my  circle  of  operations  to  a  very  uncomfortable 
diamet(>r,  and  was  beginning  to  feel  weaker  after  every  effort. 
Hans,  meanwhile,  had  reached  the  firm  ice,  and  was  on  his 
knees,  like  a  good  Moravian,  praying  incoherently  in  English 
and  I'^kimo  :  at  every  fresh  crushing-in  of  the  ice  he  would 
ejaculate  'God!'  and  when  I  recommenced  my  paddling 
he  rc^conunenced  his  prayers. 

''I  was  nearly  gone.  ]\Iy  knife  had  been  lost  in  cutting 
out  the  dogs  ;  and  a  spare  one  which  I  carried  in  my  trouscM's- 
pock(>t  was  so  (nR-elo])e(l  in  the  wet  skins  that  I  could  not 
reach  it.  I  owed  my  (extrication  at  last  to  a  newly  broken 
team-dog,  who  was  still  fast  to  the  sledge  and  in  struggling 
carried  one  of  the  runners  chock  against  the  edge  of  the  circle. 
All  my  pi'(>vi()us  attem])ts  to  use  the  sledge^  as  a  bridge  had 
fniUnl,  for  it  broke  through,  to  the  nuich  greater  injury  of  the 
ic<\  I  f(^lt  it  A\as  a  last  chancer  I  thnnv  myself  on  my  back, 
so  as  t()  lessen  as  nuich  as  jiossible  my  weight,  and  i)laced  the 
na])(>  of  my  lUM'k  against  the  run  or  edge  of  the  ice  :  then  with 
caution  slowly  bent  my  leg,  and,  ])lacing  tlte  ball  of  my 
moccasined  foot  against  tho  sledg(\  I  pn^ssed  steadily  against 
the  rinmc^r,  listening  to  the  lialf-\-ielding  crunch  of  tiu;  ice 
l)en(>at]i. 

'"Presently  1  f(}lt  that  my  liead  was  pillowtMl  by  the  ice, 


77/7-;    GREAT     WHITE    X(jinTI 


and  that  my  wet  fur  juin})fr  was  .<li(lin.<^  up  the  surfafc. 
ISi'Xt  caiiic  111}-  .-houldcr.-  ;  they  were  fairly  on.  One  more 
(lcci<.ic(l  \)\\<\i  and  1  was  hiunch('(l  u])  (jn  the  ice  and  safe  I 
readied  th(_'  ice-floe,  and  was  fi'icti(j]ied  \)\  Hans  with  friiiiitful 
zeal.  We  saved  all  the  dogs,  hut  tlie  -ledge.  ka}'ack.  tf-nt.-. 
gu!i<.  snow-sh(^es,  and  <'ver\'thing  he.-ide>,  were  left  Ijehind. 
The  therni(jnit-ter  at  8'  will  kec])  them  frozen  fast  in  the  sleda-e 
till  we  can  come  and  cut  thcan  (jut. 

"On  reaching  the  shi]).  after  a  twel\-e-nule  trot,  I  f(;und  >o 
nuich  of  comhjrt  and  warm  \\'elconu'  that  I  forgot  my  failure. 
Idie  fire  Was  lit  U]).  and  one  of  our  few  birds  >lau<ihtere(l  forth- 
^\"ith.  It  is  with  real  gratitude  that  I  look  hack  u])on  my 
esca])e.  and  hli'ss  the  gi'eat  ])jesiding  Ciofjdness  for  the  very 
mall}'  I'e.-ources  ^\•hiell  remain  to  us."" 

Oil  Decemher  12,  the  ])arty  which  liad  de>ei'ted  the  shi]:) 
returned:  they  hud  luid  a  hitter  exi)erienc(_'  .struggling  for 
mor<'  than  four  nujuths  among  1  he  hummocks  and  >now-dril'ts, 
and  were  in  a  ])iliahl(-  condition. 

"The  thermometer  was  at  —  oO'  "".  writes  Dr.  Kane; 
'"they  w('re  e(.\'ereil  with  rime  and  >now,  and  were  fainting 
with  hunger.  It  wa.-  necessai'X'  to  use  caution  in  taklim'  them 
helow  ;  h)r  after  an  e.\])o-ure  of  .-uch  fi'ai'lul  iiitili-ity  and 
duration  as  the\'  had  gone  thr(Mmh.  the  Warmtli  of  the  cai>in 
Would  ha\'e  ])ro-trate(l  them  com])lctely.  They  had  jour- 
neyed threi'  hundred  and  fifty  mile-  ;  and  their  la-t  run  from 
the  !)a\"  near  litah.  -onie  -e\-ciity  niile-  ill  a.  riLiht  line,  was 
tlu'oimh  the  hummoek.-  at  thi-  a.]i[)alliim  t  em))e!'al  ure.  I'oor 
iriii.iw-  !  a-  tiiey  tiu'ew  o])c!i  their  I-i-kiiiiM  tiarmeiit-  hy  the 
>lo\-e.  how  the\'  reii-hed  the  -caiity  luxuri"-  wiiich  W'v  had  to 
ofi'er  thi'iii.      The  cdrfi-c,  and   l!,e  !iii-at-lii-''uit    -iiup.   and  th(.' 

mi)la--e-.    and   t!,e   whe;it    hread.   (■\'en   the  --alt    !i(irf;.  \\Tieh   i  lUr 

>r\\v\y   inri  'ade  t  tie   re-t    of  U-   to  toueh  —  how  I  laV  reli-hed  It 

all!  fur  iiiMir  ihaii  two  niwulli-  they  had  li\"ed  cm  fro/eu 
.-eal  ale  I  wali'U.--meat.'' 


PEIVATIOXS    Ay  J)    SUFFIClUXCrS  227 

To  Dr.  Ranch's  dctcM-mination  to  stand  I)y  the  l)rijf  was 
due  the  pj-c-^o'vat ion  of  the  cntii'c  i)arty,  for  liad  hv  hccn  less 
firm  in  his  rosolntion.  the  entire  (>xpedition  would  un- 
doui)tedly  have  ])erislied  on  the  ice. 

•' Fehruai'N'  closes,"  writes  tlu^  lu-roic  leader;  ''thank  God 
the  la])se  of  its  tweni y-ei<ilit  days  I  Should  the  thirty-one 
of  the  coniin.ii;  ]\Iarch  not  drau'  us  further  downward,  w(^  may 
ho])e  I'oi-  a  succ(>ssful  close  to  this  dreary  drama.  ]>y  A])ril  10 
we  should  have  seals  ;  and  wlien  they  come,  if  we  remain  to 
W(>lcome  them,  we  can  call  oui'selves  saved.  J5ut  a  fair  review 
of  our  ]iros])ects  tells  me  that  I  nuist  look  the  lion  in  the  face. 
The  scui'vy  is  steadily  j2;ainin,a;  on  us.  I  do  my  best  to  sus- 
tain the  more  des])(>rate  cases,  Imt  as  fast  as  I  partially  huild 
U])  one,  another  is  stricken  down.  Of  \\w  six  \\'()rkers  of  our 
party,  as  1  counted  them  a  month  a.2,'o,  two  are  unaJjIe  to  do 
out-door  work,  and  the  r(>mainin,<>;  four  di^■ido  the  duty  of 
the  >liit)  anionji  them.  Hans  rnustf-rs  liis  I'cmain.ins  (Mier<i-i(~s 
to  coiuluct  the  hunt.  Pi^terscn  is  his  dishe;u'ten(Ml,  mo])ino; 
as-istant.  The  other  Two,  Bonsall  and  myself,  have  all  the 
daily  offices  of  hous(>hold  and  hos])ital. 

"  we  cho))  live  lari2.'(>  sacks  of  ice,  cut  six  fathoms  of  eight- 
inch  hawser  into  junks  of  a  foot  each,  serve  out  tlie  meat 
vrlicn  we  ]\a\c  it,  hack  at  the  molasses,  and  hew  out  with 
crow-har  aiul  ax(~  th.e  ])ork  and  dried  a])]iles  ;  ])ass  up  tlie 
foul  slo|)  and  cle;msin,a:s  of  our  dormitory,  anrl  in  a  word,  cook, 
sciillnini:( ,  and  attend  the  sick. 

■■.\dd('(l  1()  tiiis,  for  five  nights  running.  T  have  kept  watch 
from  S  P.M.  to  4  a. At.,  catching  such  na])s  as  1  could  in  tlu^  day 
without  ch.'tn'nng  my  cloth(\<,  hut  cai'cfully  waking  ev("ry 
liour  to  note  thermometers." 

Tli(^  sufferin^s  endured  diunng  tlie  month  of  March  iwv 
]iaini"u!ly  interi^sting.  TIad  Dr.  Kane"s  sti'engtl!  given  way 
at  tliis  junctin-(\  tlie  whole  j)arty.  dc])i'ive(l  of  thcii-  leading 
spirit,  must   ha\'e  perished.     He   attributes  his  comparali\-e 


oos 


77//-;    CIIKAT     WHITE    XORTJI 


iiniuunity  from  sciir\-y  to  "rat-sou])."  Tlicsc  rodents,  sur- 
vivhi<^'  the  hlcak  winter,  had  overrun  the  ship  ;  but  he  was  the 
only  man  who  would  eat  them.  IIavin<i'  n(j  i'uel,  the  (Mily 
meth(jd  of  heating'  was  the  J'l<l<imo  method  of  lamps  :  tlie 
soot  and  fatty  carlKjn  hlaekin<i'  e\-('rything  on  which  it  re>te(h 

Heroic  metliods  were  made  to  keep  in  touch  with  the 
friendly  natives,  and  Hans,  on  more  than  one  occa>ion,  save(l 
the  life  of  the  party  by  securing  fresh  meat  from  them. 

To  add  to  their  troubles,  two  men  attemj^ted  to  desert 
at  this  critical  junctiUH':  cnily  one  succeeded  —  Ciodfrey  — 
who  joined  the  ]-^>kimos.  But  stran,u'e  as  it  may  seem,  \]i\< 
man  returned  with  a  su])pl\'  of  meat  foi'  his  (les])erate  com- 
rades, while  i'('fti>in_si'  t(j  return  on  board  >hii).  Fearin.u'  (Uxl- 
frey  mitibt  have  done  bodily  harm  to  Han>,  who  was  ab>ent, 
Dr.  ]\ane  (letermined  to  fol!oA\'  the  man  and  bj-inii  hiin  ])ack. 
To  this  end  hf>  made  a  joui'ney  alouLi'  with  a  dou'  -Icflo-f  of 
o\-er  ei.ii'hty  miles  to  tlie  K.-kimo  .--ett lenient ,  and  retui'iied  \\-ith 
lii>  man. 

There  was  no  other  altei'nativc-  Init  to  jirf-pare  for  aban- 
doiiinu'  the  A'lrai,r( ,  as  early  in  the  s])rin.u'  as  the  weatlu'r 
Would  ])ermit.  and  ho]")e  to  reac-h  the  l");ini>h  settlements  at 
r])ei-na\'ik.  Px'fore  tlu>  \h>h\<  could  be  ti'an-fei-red  to  the 
o])en  Water,  imich  labotu'  in  pr('])arat  ion  mu>t  I  »e  cxix-nded,  and 
the   mo-t  (;f  the  ]-)art\'  ^\■ere  biedriddeii    and   unable    to   move. 

Xot  until  May  20,  Is.l."),  werr-  the\-  able  to  bid  farewell 
to  the  briii'.  and  the  I'c treat  wa-  >t art eil  under  the  mo-t  t  rying 
expei-ieiice-  of  -ickn('^<  and  famine.  P)y  .lune  17.  they -tood 
be-iile  o])en  -ea.  but  not  for  fift\-— ix  more  da\'-  did  they  I'each 
( 'l)''rn;i\"ik. 

Hefore  the  o]")en  watei'  wa-  re;ieli<'(l,  a  -ad  aTni  traU'ic 
;icci(|ent  had  b'-falhii  one  of  the  al)!e-t  men.  "I  li;id 
h'tt  the  ])arty  i»n  the  floe."  write-  Dr.  I\;ine,  '•with  nia!i\' 
appreheii-inn-  U>r  their  >afety,  and  the  re-ult.  ])ro\-ed  they 
W!  !'e    iKjt    wilhijut    cau-e.      While    cro^-iuL!:    a    "tide-hole"    one 


AllAXDONMEXT    OF    THE    ''ADVAXCE"  22!> 

of  the  niiiiici's  of  the  Hope's  s1(mIj>;('  broke  thi-outi,'h,  and,  but 
for  the  str('n,!;lh  and  ])r('S('ii('<'  of  mind  <jf  Ohlscn,  the  boat 
would  have  .u'onc  under.  He  saw  the  ice  give  way,  and,  by  a 
violent  exei'eise  of  ,strentitli,  ])assed  a  ea})stan-bar  under  tiie 
sled,i;;e,  and  thus  bore  the  load  till  it  was  hauled  on  to  safer  ice. 
He  was  a  very  jiowerful  man,  and  nh<>;ht  Jiave  done  this  with- 
out injuring'  himself,  but  it  would  seem  his  footing  gave  way 
under  him,  forcing  him  t(_)  make  a  still  moi'e  des])(M'at(>  effort 
to  extricate  hims(>lf.  It  cost  hiim  his  hfe  ;  he  di(Ml  three  days 
aflerwai'ds. 

'■  1  was  bringing  down  CU^jrge  St(^phenson  from  the  sick- 
station,  ;md,  my  sledge  Ix'ing  lu^avily  kiden,  I  had  just 
crossed,  with  somt^  anxi(^ty,  near  the  s])ot  at  wliich  the  accident 
occurrcMl.  A  little  way  beyond  we  met  Mi'.  Ohlsen,  sedated 
U])on  a  lump  of  ic(^  and  very  ])ale.  H(^  ])ointed  to  tlu^  cam]) 
about  three  miles  farther  on,  and  told  us  in  a  faint  \'oice,  that 
he  had  not  detaiiKxl  tlu^  jxu'ty  :  he  duid  a  little  cram])  in  the 
small  of  his  back,'  l)ut  would  soon  be  b(>tter. 

■'  I  ])ut  him  at  oncc^  in  Ste])hens()n's  })lace,  and  drove  him 
on  to  the  Faith.  Tlua'c^  he  was  ])laced  in  tlie  stca-n  sheets  of 
tlie  boat,  and  well  muflied  U])  in  our  b(\-t  buffalo  robes. 
Duiing  all  that  night  }w  was  assidiiousl}'  att(aided  by  Dr. 
nay(>s  :  Init  hc^  sank  ra])idly.  His  sym])toms  had  from  the 
fii'st  a  ('(M'tain  obscur(>  but  fatal  r(--semblance  to  our  wint(a''s 
tetanus  and  filled  us  \vith  forebodings." 

The  sti-ength  of  the  stricken  band  was  gradually  reaching 
its  mininnnn.  I'he  (^xei'tion  of  l)ailing  the  imseaworthy  boats 
i'(Hiuir(>d  ;il!  tlu*  strength  left  to  tlu*  (aifeebled  ])arty.  They 
br(-athed  hea\"ily,  their  limbs  swelled,  and  they  suffered  from 
in-oiiuha,  so  tliat  each  day  rendered  their  weakened  efforts 
le-s  ])romising.  At  this  crisis  of  tluar  foi'tunes.  tliey  saw  a 
larg{>  seal  fioating  on  a  small  ])atch  of  ice,  and  seemingly 
asieej). 

"Trembling  with  anxiety,"  wi'ites  T)v.  Kane,  ""we  i)re])ared 


2:50 


TIIK    (J  RE  AT     WHITE    NORTH 


to  crawl  down  U])oii  him.  P(!tersoii,  with  a  hir<2;c  En<2;hsh 
ritic,  was  stationed  in  the  how,  and  slockin<:;s  were  drawn 
o\i'r  the  oars  as  nuifllers.  As  we  ncared  th(>  animal,  our  excite- 
ment l)ecain(!  so  intense  that  the  nuni  could  hardly  kec])  stroke. 
lie  was  \\o\  aslec])  ;  for  he  reared  his  head  when  we  were 
almost  within  rilie-shot  ;  and  to  this  day  I  can  remember  the 
hard,  careworn,  almost  des])aii-in^  e\])i'ession  of  the  men's 
thin  faces  as  they  saw  him  move;  their  thin  lives  de])ended 
on  his  ca])tm'e.  I  de])ressed  m\'  hand  nervously,  as  a  si<;-nal 
h)r  I'etei'sen  to  fire.  Mcdarx'  hun,<>;  U])on  his  oar,  and  the 
boat  seemed  to  me  within  certain  ranj^'e.  Jx)okin,^'  at  J^'ter- 
sen,  I  saw  that  the  poor  tellow  was  pai'alysed  by  his  anxiety, 
tryin<i-  vainly  to  obtain  a  I'cst  for  his  ,<i,'un  a.<i;ainst  \\\v  cut- 
water of  the  boat.  Tlie  seal  rose  on  his  fore  thpijcr,  t2;azed 
at  us  h)r  a  UKjment  with  fiia;htened  ciu'iosity,  and  coiled  him- 
self for  a  ])[un,i>;(\  At  that  instant,  sinuiltaneously  with  the 
crack  of  our  rille,  he  r(4axed  his  lonu;  len,u;l  h  on  the  ice,  and, 
at  the  N'cry  brink  of  lh(^  water,  his  head  h'll  hel])ie,-;s  to  one  side. 
I  would  have  ordered  another  shot,  but  no  discipline  could 
ha\'e  conti'olle<l  the  men.  W'iih  a  wild  \-ell,  each  x'ociferat in,<^ 
accordin.t;-  to  his  own  im])uise,  t  hey  ui\u'ed  their  boats  upontlu* 
floes.  .V  crowd  of  hands  seized  the  seal,  and  bore  him  u])  to 
safei'  ice.  The  men  seemed  half  craz\'.  I  had  not  realized 
how  much  we  were  reduced  by  al)solute  famine.  They  I'an 
o\-er  the  (ioe,  ci'yiii,!;'  and  lauiihinu',  aiid  bi'andisliiiiu;  their 
kiii\('<.  It  was  not  li\'e  minutes  befos'e  evei'y  man  was  suck- 
iiii;'  liis  bloody  finjicrs,  or  mouthiiu!,'  loiiti'  sti'i])s  of  raw  l)lubb(M". 
Xol   an  ounc(>  of  thi-^  seal  was  lost." 

A  few  d;i\-s  later  the  familiar  cadence  of  a  ''halloo"  fell 
upon  t  he  ears. 

"  l.i-teti,  Petersen!  oars,  men!"  'Av'hat  is  it".'"  -and 
he  li-;tcne(!  (|iii(  lly  ;it  \\v>\  ;ii)d  then,  tremblinu'  said,  in  a  half 
\\iii-pii\  '■  I  )anne  in;irker-  '  " 

"I   I'einenibcr  ihl-^,"  \vrites   Kane,  ''the  fii'st  tone  of  ('hris- 


ABAXDONMEyr    OF    THE    ''ADVANCE''  231 

tian  voice  which  liad  greeted  our  return  to  the  world.  How 
we  all  stood  up  and  jMH^'cd  into  the  distant  nooks  ;  and  how 
the  cr\'  came  to  us  a,gain,  just  as,  havin.u;  seen  nothing,  we 
were  doubting  whetlier  the  whole  was  not  a  dream  ;  and 
then  how.  with  long  swee])s,  the  white  a.sh  cracking  under  the 
s})ring  of  the  rowers,  we  stood  for  the  cape  that  the  sound 
proceeded  from,  and  how  nervously  we  scanned  the  gi'cen 
s])ots  which  our  experience,  grown  now  into  instinct,  told  us 
would  he  tlie  likely  camping  ground  (jf  wa>'farer.  By-and-l)y 
—  for  we  nnist  have  been  ])ulling  a  good  half  hour  —  the 
singh>  mast  of  a  small  shallop  showed  its(df ;  and  Petersen, 
who  had  l)e(ai  very  (juiet  and  grave,  burst  out  into  an  inco- 
herent fit  of  crying,  only  relieved  by  ])roken  exclamations  of 
mingled  Danish  and  English.  '  'Tis  the  L'pernavik  oil-l)oat ! 
th(>  Fraulein  Flaischer  !  Carlie  Alossyn,  tlu^  assistant  cooper, 
must  be  on  his  road  to  Kingatok  for  })lubber.  The  Mariane 
(the  oiK^  animal  shi]))  has  come,  and  Carlie  Mo^syn — '  and 
here  he  did  it  all  <jver  again,  gulping  down  his  words  and 
wringing  his  hands." 

Another  halt,  a  night's  rest,  and  the  settlement  was  reached, 
wluM'e  a  genei'ous  welcome^  awaited  the  weary  ex]il(jrers. 

'' F(^r  eighty-four  days,"  says  Kan(\.  "we  had  lived  in  the 
0]ien  air.  Our  liabits  were  hard  and  weather-worn.  We 
could  n(M  ren.iain  within  the  four  walls  of  a  house  without  a 
distressing  s(m«^  of  suffocation.  I'jut  we  drank  coffee  that 
night  befori-  many  a  hospitable  thresliold.  and  list(Mie(l  again 
•dud  again  to  the  hymn  of  \\-eh'ome,  which,  sung  by  many 
\'oic(>s,   grci'tcd   oui'  deliverance.'' 

The  Danish  ve«el  was  not  ready  for  her  homeward  journey 
till  the  4th  of  Scjjt ember.  ( )n  tlu^  (itli,  Dr.  Kane  and  liis  ])aii  \" 
left  l^])ernavik.  in.  the  Mnricni .  \vh()<(>  cai)tain  had  promised 
to  con\-ey  tliem  to  th(^  Shetland  Islands  ;  on  the  11th  they 
touclied  at  (lodlun'en,  the  ins]M'Cl orate  of  Xorth  Greenland, 
iind  later  at  Disco,  where  the  Mariane  remained  a  few  da\'s. 


2-]2  THE  anEAr    wiiitk  yoirrii 

As  cafly  as  Fchnian-  .'],  18").").  a  resolution  had  ])ass('(l 
('oiiUi-c.-s  aut  h!)i-iziii,a;  the  Sccrctai'}'  of  the  \a\'\'  to  ilcspatch 
a  >uitablc  steamer  and  lender  for  the  rehef  of  Dr.  Kane.  The 
JU'lcd-sc  and  A  relic  were  accordingly  e(iuip])ed  and  ])ut  in 
command  of  Lieutenant  Hart  stein,  accomjxinied  \)y  a  brother 
(A  Dr.  Kane.  I^\'  July  o,  the  relief  (>x])edition  had  reachecl 
Lie\'el\'.  I>le  of  Disco,  (ireenland,  and  from  this  })oint  Lieu- 
tenant nai-tsl(>in  sa\'s  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  (jf  the  Xavy  : 
"To  av(.)id  further  risk  of  human  life,  in  a  search  s(.)  extremel}' 
hazardous,  I  would  suggest  the  im])i'opriety  of  making  any 
eltoi'ts  to  i'elie\"e  us  if  we  should  not  return  :  fe('ling  c(jnfident 
that  Ave  shall  lie  able  to  accomi)li-h  all  necessary  foi'  (jiu'  own 
releax',   under  the  most   extraoi'dinary  circumstances." 

ILu'ing  forced  a  ])assage  through  the  closelx'  ])acked  ice  in- 
to the  n(jrth  A\'ater,  1  he\'  i)roceedc(l  to  examine  the  coast  from 
('a])e  York  to  Wolstcnlujlme  Island,  also  ('a|)e  Alexamler 
and  Sutlierland   Inland. 

A  few  stone-  heaped  together  near  Point  Pellam  ga\'e 
assurance  of  Kane's  having  been  there,  but  no  other  cicw 
\\'a<  -ecure(l.  Taking  a  I'etrograde  cour-e,  ihey  examined 
('a])('  Ilatherton  and  Littleton  1-land.  finall\'  reaching  a 
])oint  -omc  (ifleen  mile<  nort  hwe-t  of  ( 'a])''  Alexander.  Here 
the\'  were  -ur])rised  to  fall  in  Avitli  some  1-^-kimo-.  in  wiio-e 
])o--!'.--ioii  were  toimd  certain  articles  known  to  lia\'e  be- 
longed to  Di-.  Kane,  .\tter  diliu'ent  iiKiuii'ie-,  they  leai'ned 
of  tlie  abandonment  of  the  shi])  and  the  I'eti'i'at  to  the  --outh 
of  1 )!'.   I\ane'<  part  w 

Afie!'  -ome  furllier  reconnoit  rimz'  in  the  hope  of  findinii'  the 
])arty  -hould  the>'  lie  in  the  \'ieinit\\  Lieutenant  Hai't-lein 
decided  to  maki'  for  I  "])ei-na\"ik.  .\  furiou<  u'aje  dro\'e  them 
out  'if  llicii'  eiiur-e  .ailrifl   in  tlie  ice  p.aek. 

"After  thi-  L:ale."  wi'ile-  Dr.  Kane'-,  liriilii-r.  "we  l.ad  lit  lie 

nv    iio    niMi-i'    U'liiibji'-     with     the    iei-  ;      iin<-    iir    !  wo    l  irililCi.'    de- 

ti-iiiioii-  III'  a   few  da\-   brouu'hl    u-   to  open    water.      We  had 


IlETRKAT    AND    IlKSd'E  Zoo 

drifted  so  far  to  the  south  that  Lievely  was  nearer  tlian 
Upernavik,  and  Captain  Hartstein  determined  to  put  in 
tlicre.  We  had  a  heavy  gale  the  night  after  we  left  the  ice  ; 
but  so  glad  were  we  all  to  g(^t  clear  of  it,  that  I  heard  no 
comjjlaints  about  rough  weather.  It  cleared  away  beau- 
tifully towards  morning,  and  we  were  all  on  the  deck,  ad- 
miring the  clear  water,  and  the  fantastic  shapes  of  the  water- 
washed  icebergs.  All  hands  were  in  high  si)irits  ;  the  gale 
I'lad  blown  in  the  right  direction,  and  in  a  few  hours  we  siiould 
l)e  in  Lievel}'.  The  rocks  oi  its  land-locked  harbor  were 
already  in  sight.  We  were  discussing  our  news  by  anticipa- 
tion, when  the  man  in  the  crow's  nest  cried  out  :  'A  ])rig 
in  the  h.arljor  !'  and  the  next  minute,  beftjre  we  had  time  to 
congratulate  {>ach  other  on  the  chance  of  sending  letters 
home,  tliat  she  had  hoisted  AnKM'ican  colors  —  a  delicate 
com])liment,  we  thought,  on  tlie  part  of  our  friends,  the  Danes. 
I  believe  our  captain  was  about  to  return  it,  when  to  our 
sur])rise,  she  hoist(Hl  another  flag,  the  veritable  one  which 
had  gone  out  witli  the  A'lvnncr,  bc-aring  the  nam(^  of  -Mr. 
Henry  (Irimiell.  At  th(^  same  moment,  two  boats  were  seen 
I'onuding  the  {)oint,  and  pulling  towards  us.  Did  they 
contain  our  lo<t  fiiends?  Yes,  the  sailors  had  settk^d  that. 
"Tho-e  ai'e  Yankees,  sir  ;  no  Danes  ever  feathered  their  oars 
that  way.' 

"l''or  those  who  had  friends  among  the  missing  part\'.  th(» 
fr-w  minute>  that  followed  wei'e  of  bitter  anxiety  ;  for  the  men 
in  the  boats  were  long-bearded  and  we;ither-beaten  ;  tlie\' 
had  strange  wild  co-tumes  ;  there  was  no  possibility  of 
r(M'ognition." 

In  Dr.  Kane's  (.)wii  words,  let  us  conclude  the  cha])ter  :  — 

'■Pi'esently   we  wen-   alonuside.      An   (jfHcer   whom    I  shall 

e\-('i'    I'eiiK^mbei-    as    a    chei'islieil    fiietid.    ("a])tain    Ilart-teiii, 

hailed   a   little  man   in   a   ragged   ilantiel   shirt.      'Is   thi-    Dr. 

Kane?"  and  with  the  '  Yes  I '  that   followed,  the  rigging  was 


!2:j4  the  grkat   white  yoRTri 

maiuuMl  l)y  our  countrymen,  and  cheers  Avolromcd  us  back 
to  the  social  world  of  love  which  they  r(^i)r(\-<entcd." 

Dr.  Kane  and  his  ])arty  reached  Xew  Y(jrk,  (Jctol)er  11, 
isr).").  aud  received  an  enthusiastic'  welcome,  after  an  absence 
of  thirty  months.  Honours  of  the  most  ilattcring  kind 
awaited  him  on  both  side-  ()(  the  Atlantic,  Init  his  health 
wa-  completely  br(,)ken  1  >}•  the  trials  of  liis  wonderful  journey. 
( )n  l-"el)ruary  Ki,  lSo7.  he  died  at  Havana,  in  the  thirty- 
seventh  \'ear  of  his  age. 


,'    J> 


'  V.\W  -I  i\     Ml  i\  I    Ml    \  1 


The  Tall  ^llaft,  of  jialr  Lnvcn  <;i  initi  .  \\  i-  ili-i  dm  h  '1  1>\ 
Dr.  Katii- 


CHAPTER   XII 

Dr.  Hayes's  expedition.  Winter  (juarters  at  Port  Foullve.  — Green- 
land const.  — Death  of  ;^onntag. —  Dr.  Hayes's  journey. — Attempt 
to  cross  ^niith  k^ouiid.  — Hayes's  farthest.  —  ""  Opt'n  Polar  Sea.'' 
—  Homeward  bound. 

Ix  1S60,  Dr.  Ilayos,  who  had  accompanied  the  second 
(h-iniiell  expedition  and  rcnidered  much  valtiable*  service  to 
Dr.  Kane  and  his  party,  once  more  sailed  from  America  for 
the  pm'pose  of  completing  the  sur\-ey  of  the  north  coasts  of 
Greenland  and  Grinnell  Land  and  to  make  stich  explorations  as 
he  might  find  practicable  in  the  direction  of  the  Xorth  Pole. 

''^ly  proposed  base  of  operations,"  writes  Dr.  IIa\'es, 
'Avas  Grinnell  Land,  which  I  had  discovered  on  my  former 
voyage,  and  had  jjersonally  traced  btwond  latitude  80°,  far 
enough  to  satisfy  tliat  it  was  available  for  my  design." 

On  the  morning  of  July  8,  1800,  the  rtiilcd  Stufcs  was  fairly 
on  her  way,  and,  by  July  oO,  Di'.  IIa>Ts  had  the  satisfaction 
of  being  oiu'e  more  within  the  Arctic  Girck^. 

'A\'e  had  some  rough  handliiig  in  Da\ds'  Strait,"  he  writes. 
'■()nc('  I  thought  we  had  stu'ely  come  ingloriously  to  gi'ief. 
^V(^  W('r(>  running  b(d'or(>  th(^  wind  and  figiitiug  a  wrt^tched 
cross-sea  und(a'  rinM'ed  fore  and  mainsail  and  jib,  when  the 
foi'e-rail  was  carried  away  :  —  down  came  e\'erything  to  tlu^ 
deck  :  and  there  ^\■as  left  not  a  stitch  of  canvas  on  the  scliooncM' 
but  the  lumlxaing  mainsail.  It  was  a  mir:u'le  thai  we  did 
not  broach  to  and  go  to  the  i)ottom.  Nothing  saved  us  but 
a  steady  liand  at  thc^  helnn" 

After  se\'er;d  inu'row  escajies  in  the  ice  fic-ld.  the  United 
Sldtt'.'^  was  at  i(>ngth  compelkvl  to  take  ti[)  lua'  winter  r[tiarters 

23.-) 


Till-:  (.iih'AT  wiiiTK  xoirni 


al  Port  l'"()iilkt\  on  \\\v  (\vvvn\iuul  coast,  al)()ut  tw(Miiy  miles 
to  tlic  south  ot'  lii'iisx'lacr  harbour.  An  ahuiulaut  coiuim-^- 
sariat,  aniplx'  sui)])hc(l  l)y  I'rcsh  meat,  kept  up  tlic  general 
hcahh  of  the  l)art\'  during  the  long  night,  and  they  ('sca[)cd 
scur\\',  which  had  proved  so  fatal  to  l)i".  lvanc'"s  crew. 

A  gi'cat  catastroi)lK'  was  tlic  death  by  freezing  of  Sonntag, 
the  a>tronoinv'r,  who  had  been  a  \'aluable  member  of  \)r. 
Kane's  ex])edition,  and  a  nuich-l)el()\'ed  friend  of  Dr.  IIa\"es. 
Accompanied  by  Hans  TT(Midrik,  he  had  started  on  a  sledge 
journey  to  the  I'^tah  Eskimo.  On  Februar\'  1,  Dr.  IIay(\s 
A\rites  :  — 

■'Hans  lia-  gi\-en  me  the  story  of  his  journey,  and  T  sit 
down  to  record  it  with  vei'\'  painful  emotions.  The  tra\'ellers 
rounde<l  Cape  Alexander  without  diflicuUy,  finding  the  ice 
solid;  the\'  did  not  halt  until  t!ie\'  had  r(>ached  Sutherland 
Island,  w  liere  they  built  a  snow  hut  and  r(>sted  ftjr  a  few  hours. 
( 'out  inning  thence  down  the  coast ,  they  sought  the  ]']s(|uimaux 
at  Soi'falik  \\'ithout  success.  The  naii\'(>diut  at  that  placo 
being  in  ruins,  they  made  for  their  shelter  anothei'  house  (jf 
snow;  and,  aftca-  biding  well  reste(l,  they  set  out  directl\'  for 
Xofihumberland  Island,  having  concluded  that  it  was  u.-eless 
to  seek  longer  for  nati^'s  on  the  nortli  >ide  of  the  Sound. 
Tlii'>'  had  proceeded  on  their  course^  about  four  or  fi\'e  mil(S 
a-  neai'l}  a<  I  can  judge  from  Hans"  description.  v,-heii  Sonn- 
t ;ig.  growing  a  lilt  le  chille(  1,  spi-ang  off  the  sl(>dge  and  ran  ahead 
ot  the  dog>  to  warm  him>elf  w\\\i  the  exei'ci>e.  Tiie  tangling 
(,'f  a  ti'ace  obliging  Hans  to  halt  the  te;mi  I'or  a  \r\v  minuli-s, 
he  fell  >oiMc  di-tance  behind,  and  was  huri'ying  to  catch 
up,  whi'ii  he  -uddenly  olxerx'cd  Sorm1;ig  -inkinu'.  He  had 
come  upon  the  ihiii  ice,  co\-(M'ing  ;i  I'eceiitly  open  tide-ci'ack, 
and,  proit.ably  not  iib<er\'ing  his  footinu',  he  steppml  upon  it 
im.MW  a!-e-.  Han-  hastened  to  hi-  !'e-(aie,  .ami  aitleil  him  out 
o!'  ihe  watei',  .and  then  turned  back  I'or  the  >heltci'  whirh  they 
h.ad    I'lTcntK-   ,ai  );iiid(ine(l.      A    light    wind    ua-   blowinii  :it    th(^ 


I)i;.    IIAVKS  .S   EXrKDITION  l^o  ( 

tiiiic  from  the  north(\ist,  and  this,  according  to  Hans,  caused 
Sonntag  to  seidv  tlie  liut  without  stopping  to  chang(>  liis  wet 
clothing.  At  first  lie  ran  beside  the  sledge,  and  thus  guarded 
against  dangxn* ;  but  after  a  while  he  rode,  and  when  they 
halted  at  Sori'alik,  Hans  discovered  that  his  companion  was 
stih"  and  speechless.  Assisting  him  into  the  hut  with  all 
possible  despatch,  Hans  states  that  he  removed  the  wet  and 
frozen  clothing,  and  placed  Sonntag  in  the  sleeping-l)ag.  He 
next  gav(^  him  some  l)randy  which  he  found  in  a  flask  on  the 
sledge  ;  and,  having  tightly  closetl  the  hut,  he  lighted  the 
alcohol  lamp,  for  the  doubh^  purpose  of  elevating  the  tempera- 
ture and  making  some  coffee  ;  but  all  of  his  (efforts  were 
unavailing,  and,  after  remaining  for  nearly  a  da\'  unconscious^ 
Sonntag  died.  He  did  not  speak  aftcn'  reacliing  the  hut,  and 
left  no  message  of  any  kind.  After  closing  u|)  tlie  uKjuth  of 
the  hut,  so  tliat  t!ie  body  might  not  be  disturbed  by  bears 
or  foxes,  Hans  again  set  out  southward,  and  reached  Xor- 
thumberland  Island  without  inconvenience." 

Eai'h'  in  A])ril,  ISOl,  Dr.  Hayes  left  the  ship  "to  plunge 
into  the  wilderness."  Having  pr(n'iously  ascertaincnl  that  an 
advance  al(.)ng  the  Greenland  sh(jre  was  utterly  impo>si!jl(', 
he  re-olved  to  cro-s  the  sound,  and  to  try  his  f(jrtuncs  along 
tlie  coa-t  of  ( Irinnell  Land. 

'■I)y  wiuding  Xi)  the  right  and  l(>ft,"  h(>  writer,  '"and  by 
occasionally  I'eti'acing  our  ste],is.  we  maiuigcd  to  get  owv  tlu^ 
first  few  mill's  without  much  embai'rassment,  but  further  on 
the  ti'ack  was  rouLdi.  ])a-t  de>cri])tion.  I  can  c()m])are  it  1o 
nothing  but  a  promiscuous  accunnilaticjn  of  ri.x'ks  pileil  uj) 
()\'(M'  a  A"ast  ])lain  in  great  heaps  and  endless  ridge.-.  The 
inTerslice>  between  these  closely  accumulated  ice-ma>.-es  are 
filled  u]")  to  some  extent  with  drifted  snow." 

It  i<  not  -uipri-ing  that  after  such  diflicult  tra\'el.  at  the  end 
of  tA\'enty-fi\-e  d;iys  tliey  hud  not  yet  rc^uche  1  l!;dfu'a\'  acro-s 
tiie  .-ound. 


THE  (;nEAT  white  yoinu 


"My  parry  arc  in  a  \"('ry  sorry  roiHlition,'"  \vritos  Dr. 
IIayc>.  ■"One  (ji  the  iiicu  lia>  >praiiLc(l  iij.s  hack  from  lifting'  ; 
an(it}i(-r  lia-  .-praiiic(I  iiis  aiikh- ;  aiKjthcr  lias  gastritis;  an- 
other a  fri)--tc(l  toe;  and  all  arc  ihorouglily  ovcrvrhchncd 
wiih  faiiu'tie.     Tiic  men  do  not  .-tand  it  a>  wcdl  as  the  dogs.'' 

-\nd  ihc  ncx^  day,  Api'il  2(),  he  writes  :  — 

■'■]  feci  toniglit  thai  I  am  gcttinu;  raj)iddy  to  the  end  (;f  my 
rope,  j-^ach  day  -ii'cngthen-  th(.'  conviciion,  not  onl\'  that 
we  can  ne\'cr  reach  ( d'inni'll  Land,  wiili  pro\'isions  for  a 
j<jni'Mey  u])  the  coa-l  to  the  Polar  ,^ea.  hut  that  it  cannot  he 
done  at  ail.  I  iia\'c  ta.lkc<lto  the  o[Fic('rs,  and  they  arc  all  of 
tiii-  opiniijn.  Tiicy  -ay  the  t'linu'  i-  hoj)elc--.  Dodiic  ]")Ut  it 
thu>  :  'Yon  migiit  a.-  avcII  try  to  cro->  the  city  of  Xew  Yoi'k 
o\'cr  the  hou-e-iops.' " 

ddioiiLi'h  di-!ieart(-ncd.  their  hold  leader  wa-  not  disconragerj. 
and,  -cndinu'  t  ht-  main  ])arty  I)ack  to  l  lie  -chooner,  he  ('(jntinued 
to  lilunu'c  i.ito  the  hunnnock<.  After  fourteen  da\'s  of  almo>t 
>upe;-hunian  <-xertion,  iu-  reached  tiie  c(ja-i,  .May  11,  v.-hen  he 
Avriti-  ;  — 

■'In  cajii])  at  la-t,  c]o>e  uufler  tlie  land:  aivl  a-  hai)iiy 
a-  m(-n  can  'oe  wiio  iia\'e  achie\-cd  -ucce--  and  await  -u;.>!)er. 
A-  we  rouuded  to  in  a  c(jnvenicnt  place  for  oui'  camp, 
MeDouaid  loMkeil  ui)  at  'he  tall  ( 'a))e,  wiiich  ro-^c  ahove  our 
head-  ;  and,  as  ):(■  Turned  .-iway  to  g(-t  oui'  furnace  to  })rep;t!-e 
a  much-uecded  meah  he  Ava-  heard  to  grurnlde  in  a  serio- 
comic loin-:  'Wclh  I  wonder  if  that  i-  laici.  or  only  "(api! 
r  i'\'-::A\-:iy  "    aft  er  ail  ?  '  " 

I'cU  i!;iiUL:!i  hind  \^'a-  reached,  the  ti'ials  of  the  joui'ncy 
a!o]  ir  tii'-  co;i--!  v.-f'-i'  iione  the  h--  !iara--iicj:.  A\  itji  untii'iuu; 
i-]\i'vsy.  \h\  l!;;;\"e-  pu-hed  on  uutil  the  \s\]i  of  A[a\',  when 
iurdie-  1  i-v  ,M ;■,..-.  ii. -(-11110  in!j)o--i!  !".  (c.\'!mr  to  a  d^-ep  hay, 
mofi.-u  witji  a  'A-iiiii'  -h.  el  and  dai'k  piitche-,  the-e  Jaio-j- 
hi'i'iu'  eitiii-!'  -lift  dccax'iici'  iee  (,r  plicc-  \'/hcre  the  ici'  had 
\\\'>  ih\"  di-aOOear.'d. 


BR.    JIAVL'S'S   EXr EDITION  239 

''And  now,"  writes  Dr.  Hayes,  '"my  journey  was  ended,  and 
I  had  nothing  to  do  but  make  my  way  liack  to  Tort  Toulke. 
The  advancing  season,  tlie  rapi(hty  with  which  th(>  tliaw 
was  taking  place,  tiie  certainty  that  tli(>  open  water  was  eating 
into  Smith  Sound  as  weU  as  througli  ]^affin  Bay  frcjni  the 
south,  as  througli  Kennedy  Channel  from  the  north,  thus 
endangering  my  return  across  to  the  (Ireerdand  shore,  warned 
m.e  that  1  had  lingered  long  enough. 

"  It  now  only  remained  for  us  to  ])lant  our  flag  in  token  of 
our  disco\'ery,  and  to  deposit  a  record  ])ro()f  of  our  presence. 
The  flags  were  tied  to  the  w!ii])-lash,  and  suspend(Hl  between 
two  tall  rocks,  and  while  we  were  building  a  cairn,  they  werc^ 
allowed  to  {iutt(>r  in  the  l.)reeze  ;  then,  tearing  a  leaf  from  my 
note-book,  1  wrote  on  it  as  follows  :  — 

'■'This  point,  the  most  northern  land  that  has  e\-er  been 
reached,  was  visitcnl  by  the  undersigned,  Alay  bSth,  19th,  ISfil, 
acconrpanicnl  by  (ieorge  T.  Knorr,  tra\-elling  dog-sl(>dge. 
We  arrived  hei'e  after  a  toiiscjme  march  of  forty-six  dax's  from 
ni}'  winter  harbor  near  ('ai)e  Alexander,  at  the  mouth  of 
Smith  Sound.  Aly  obs(>rva1i(jns  ])lace  us  in  latitude  (Sl^^  3.")', 
longitude  70°  'MY  \V.  Our  fiu'ther  pi'ogress  was  s1o])ped  by 
rotti^n  ice  and  cracks.  Kenu(Mly  (/hanmd  ap,])eai's  to  (\x])aud 
intollie  Polar  Basin;  and,  satisfied  tliat  it  is  luivigable  at 
lea>t  duriiig  th(>  months  (jf  .Ju!\'.  August,  and  Se])teuil)er,  1  go 
lu^uce  to  my  winter  harbor,  to  make  auotluM'  trial  to  get 
through.  Smith  Sound  with  my  ^'essel,  after  th(>  ice  breaks  up 
this  summer. 

"'I.  I.  Hayes. 

"'May  19,  18(11.'" 

"I  ciuit  the  place  with  reluctance."  lie  writes.  "'It  ])os- 
S(^ssed  a  fascination  for  me.  and  it  was  Avith  no  ordiriai'y  s(>n- 
sations  that  1  cont(Mii|)lat(Hl  my  sit-aation,  with  one  solitary 
companion,  in  that  hitherto  untrodd(Mi  desert  ;  A\-hi!e  \nx 
nearness  to  the  earth's  axis,  the  consciousness  of  standing 


240 


Tin-:  <,RKAT    WHITE  youTii 


u])on  kind  Ix'voiul  the  limits  (if  ])rc\'i(ius  (jliscrwaticjus,  tlu^ 
rcficctiou-  wiiicli  crnsscd  in\'  iiiiiid  r('>])('Ctiii,u;  tiic  \'ast  ocean 
which  la\"  >i)read  (jUt  hclore  lue,  the  th()U<iht  that  these  ice- 
iiirdled  water-  where  dwell  human  heinjis  of  an  unkno\vn  race, 
were  circumstances  calculated  to  iru'cst  the  very  air  with 
my>t(!'y,  to  deepen  the  curiosity,  and  to  strcn.uthen  the  reso- 
lution to  ])er>('ver('  in  m\'  determination  t(j  sail  upon  this  sea 
and  to  ex])l()re  its  furthe>t  limits  ;  and  as  I  recalled  the 
stru,u;ii'lcs  ^^■hich  had  heen  made  to  reach  this  sea,  —  throu<i;h 
the  ice  and  aero---  tlu-  ice.  —  hy  <i,('nerat  ion>  of  lira\"e  men,  it 
seemed  as  if  the  >pirits  oi  these  *  )ld  W'orthie.-  came  t(j  encour- 
age me.  a-  their  exjjerience  had  alread\'  .uuidicd  me  :  and  I  felt 
that  1  had  within  my  ji'ra>])  'the  jiTeat  and  notalile  thin^'' 
which  had  in>i)ired  the  zeal  of  >turdy  l-'rcjni-her,  ami  that  I 
had  achievcil  the  ho]jc  of  matchlc-,-  Pari'\'."  The  mui-h- 
di>cu— cd  "o))en  ])olar  -ea."  in  A\iiich  Dr.  ilaye-  had  implicit 
faith.  ha>  >ince  keen  found  t(j  he  only  the  xtuth  half  of  Ken- 
nedy ( 'hamu-l.  which  frc'i'ze-  late  and  ojien^  early,  cjwinu'  to  l  he 
very  hi,u,h  tide-,  tliat  -ometimes  I'i-e  lhii't\'  feet.  Dr.  llaye- 
reached  the  -chooiier.  Jime  ;■!.  after  a!i  al  i-eiice  of  two  months, 
in  wtiicli  he  tra\"elied  not  le><  than  IMOO  miles.  After  careful 
examination  of  hi>  >hi]).  Dr.  Ila\'es  foimd  -he  h.a<l  u're.at  1\' 
r-utfer-'d  fi'om  her  exi)erience  in  the  ice.  and  that,  for  tlie  -.afety 
ot'  hi-  party,  threat  care  had  to  he  e\erci-ed  in  lier  na\'i- 
,uat  ion. 

■d')\-  dint  of  much  earne-t  exenion.'"  he  A\-i'itc-.  "'and  the 
u-e  ni  l.oh-  and  -pike-.  i  )y  rcpkicinu'  tlie  torn  cul-w:itri-. 
cai'efui  calkiiiu'.  and  rmewal  of  the  iron  ])late-.  -it  .-ee!i!,'(l 
jJi'oliaMe  iliat   the  -chooncr  A\'ou!d  he  -ea-wor'liy  :    Imt    I  wa- 

forccij    Id   aUl'ce  \V\]\[    iny   -ailillLi'   Illa-'er,    that    to   -tl•il^e   the   ice 

auain  wa-  -lU'c  1 1  >  -ink  he!-." 

Dr.  Ih'iX'e-  aw;iitid  wiih  -ome  anxiety  the  hreakinu'  U])  of 
thf  ice.  and  the  niier.atinn  of  the  -clio^ner.  Xot  until  July 
11,   1  St, P  (11,1  t  he  f  ' nil)  il  Slnti  s  ulide  out    to  -ea  under   full   -ail, 


DR.    HAVES' S    EXl'EDITIOX  241 

and  by  August  10  she  was  in  latitude^  74°  19',  longitude  06°. 
By  the  12th  they  made  land  whicli  proved  to  be  Horse's 
Head,  and  three  days  later  found  the  seh(Joner  at  an(4ior  in 
Upernavik  harl)our. 

"While  the  chain  was  \'et  clinking  in  the  hawse-hole," 
writes  Dr.  Hayes,  "an  old  Dane,  dressed  in  seal-skins,  and 
possessing  a  small  stock  of  English  and  a  large  stock  of  articles 
to  trade,  pulled  off  to  us  with  an  Eskimo  crew,  and  with 
little  ceremony,  clambered  over  the  gang\va\'.  Knorr  met 
him,  and,  without  any  ceremony  at  all,  demanded  the  news. 

"  'Oh  !  dere's  plenty  news  !' 

"  '  Out  with  it,  man  !     AMiat  is  it  ? ' 

"'Oh!  de  Sout  States  dey  go  agin  de  Xort'  States,  and 
dere's  plenty  fight  !' 

''I  heard  the  answer,  and  wondering  what  strange  compli- 
cation (jf  Europ(^an  politics  had  kindled  another  Contincnital 
war,  called  tliis  Polar  Eimna?us  to  the  quarter  deck.  Had 
he  any  nenvs  from  America  ? 

"'Ohl  'tis  'merica  me  s])eak!  De  Sout'  States,  you  see? 
and  dere's  plenty  fight  I  ' 

''Yes,  I  did  s(h>  !  but  I  did  not  believe  that  he  told  the 
truth,  and  awaittnl  letters  which  I  knew  nuist  have  conu?  out 
with  tlic  Danisli  vessel,  and  which  were  immediately  sent  for 
to  the  Oovei'junent  Hous(\" 

44)e  condition  of  the  schoon(H-  necessitated  ])utting  in  at 
Halifax  for  rei)airs,  and,  four  days  ai'ter  hviving,  they  made 
the  Boston  Lights.  "We  ])icked  uj)  a  ])il()t,""  vriitc^s  Dr. 
Hayes,  "out  of  tlu^  thickest  fog  that  1  have  ever  seen  soutli 
of  th(^  Arctic  Circle,  and  with  a  light  wind  stood  into  harlxji'. 
As  the  night  wore  on  tlie  wind  fell  away  :dmost  to  calm  ; 
the  fog  tliicl'Cened  more  and  mor<\  if  that  were  ]i()s<i'i)le,  as  we 
sagged  along  over  tlu^  dc^ad  watt^r-  toA\'ai'd  t'le  anclioi'age. 
The  night  was  fill(Ml  witli  an  oi)]^re--4ve  gloom.  The  liii'hts 
luuiging  at  the  mast-heads  of  the  vessels  which  we  ])ass(Ml  had 


Tin:  GiiF.A'i'  Willi K  yoiriii 


tlu'  ,u!ia>tl\'  ,uliiinii('!'  <jf  ta])('rs  Ituniinji;  in  a  charnel-house. 
W'c  saw  no  vessel  niovin.ti,'  lull  our  own,  and  vwn  those  which 
hiy  at  anchor  seemed  hl;e  ])hant(jni  s!ii])s  floatin,<2;  in  the  niu!'l-:y 
air.  I  ne\'er  saw  the  >hi])'>  (-(jnipany  so  hl'ele^s,  (jr  <o  de- 
})re~;.-e(h  e\-en  in  times  (jf  r("al  dcin^cr." 

■"1  hmded  on  Lon,u,'  W'liarf,""  he  continues,  ''and.  hnnid  my 
way  into  Stale  Street.  'J'wo  or  three  lij^ui'cs  wei'e  mo\'ing 
through  the  tliick  vapoi's,  and  their  solemn  h)ot-i'aU  hi'oke 
the  worse  than  Arctic  stihness.  1  readied  Washington  Street, 
and  wahced  anxiously  westward.  A  newsboy  pa>sed  me.  I 
seized  a  paper,  and  tlie  iii'.-t  thing  which  caught  my  eye  was 
the  account  oi  the  PkiU's  IjIuIV  oat  lie,  in  which  had  fallen  many 
of  the  nohlest  <on<  of  i)0-t on  ;  and  it  seemed  a<  if  1  he  vei'y  air 
had  >hroude(l  it-elf  in  moui'iiing  i'oi'  them,  and  t  hat  the  heavens 
we])t  tears  h>r  the  eity's  <lain.  I  was  \\-(>nding  my  wa\'  to 
tlie  hou-e  of  a  fi'ii'nd,  hut  I  th(jught  it  likely  tliat  he  ^\'as  not 
thei'e.  I  felt  lil:e  a  si  !'anger  in  a  strange  kuid,  and  >'et  e\'ery 
oliject  which  I  j)a-~ed  wa>  fanuliai'.  Friend-,  eountiy, 
e\-erylhing  >ecmed -wallo'Wcd  U])  in  <ome  \-a-t  c;ilamity,  and, 
doulitful  aiid  iri'e.-olute,  I  turned  liaek  -ad  and  dejected,  and 
found  my  wa\'  on  hoai'd  again  thi'ough  the  dull.  duM  fog." 

1  )i'.  Haye.-^  made  another  journey  oeyond  t!i(-  Ai'ctic  ( 'ii'ch; 
in  1S()'.»,  in  tlu'  I'dnilm-.  a-  the  gue>t  of  the  arti-t  I^raihoi'd. 
*^)Xi-v  a  tlioii-and  mile-  of  the  ('u-eenlaud  coa-t  A\'a,-  \'i.-iled, 
tei'iiiiiKit  ing  a  good  wa;c  oeyond  t  he  la-l  out  po-t  of  ci\  ili/at  ion 
on  tl:c  !J.'!o1j(-,  in  the  h'llds!  of  the  much-dl'(';i.ded  "ice-pack'"' 
of  Mekille  Wax. 


CHAPTER   XIII 


m 


Charles  Francis  Hall.  —  l^arly  life.  —  Interest  in  fate  of  Sir  Jol 
Franklin.  —  First  jotu-ney  to  Creenland.  —  Discovery  of  I'ro- 
l:)ishrr  nlics.  —  lAjX'rienccs  and  study  of  the  l-]>kini(;s.  —  Second 
journey.  — Delays  and  disai^pointnients.  —  Sledtiinii' trips.  — King 
Willianrs  Land  at  last.  —  I'ranklin  relics.  —  liiturn  of  Hall  to 
United  States.  —  Polari-^  expedition.  —  Pieaches  lii.uli  northing.  — 
Flail's  si. 'due  joui'ney.  —  lielui'ii  and  death.  —  P(il(iri-<  winters. 
Xo  escape. — PohirU  is  wrec-kcd. — Part  of  crew  adrift  on  the 
ice-floe.  -  -  Remainder  build  winter  hut.  — Final  re.-cue  and  return 
to  United  States. 

The  ]:iersonality  of  Charles  Francis  Hall  is  singularly 
interesting.  B(.)rn  in  Rux-hoster,  Xew  Hainpslure,  in  FS21, 
he  received  a  common  .scIkmjI  (Nlucation  and  ])ursne(l  the  voca- 
tion of  blacksmith,  jotirnalist,  stationer,  and  engraver. 

In  1S.")0,  while  livinG:  in  Cincinnati.  ( )hio,  h.e  became  deeply 
interested  in  the  fate  of  Sir  John  Fraid<!in,  e.nd  for  ovf^r  irine 
years  made  a  thorough  study  of  Arctic  hi-tory  and,  es])ecial!y, 
of  tlie  Fra.idvlin  search  expe^litions.  Uncon^dnced  l)y  the 
admirable  re])ort  of  Cai)tain  M'Cdinteck  in  FS.7.»  of  tlie  death 
of  Franklin  and  l!ie  fate  of  hi>  ci)m]ianii)ns.  Hall  maintained 
the  oj^iiiioii  iha1  s!n'\dvors  of  the  tinforttmab^  ox]")e(liti(jn  rtmst 
still  :u'  lixdnu'  among  the  IXkimos,  and  could  be  found. 
Ry  trie  ;iid  of  public  sulxerijit ions  and  tlie  lif)c-ra!  patromige 
ot'  Mr.  I!em'\"  (iriiuiell.  Hail  tmdertook  a  jotu'tiey.  May  20. 
I'^bO.  sailinu'  fi'om  Xew  Foivlon.  on  tic  whaler,  droruc  Ilrnri/, 
coimnanded  by  ( 'ajitain  S.  (  ).  Ri'didingt  on. 

Forty  d;iy^  kitei-  7th  of  .bdy,  jstif);,  the  (i-'ir'/i  Jhi.r;i 
dropjjed  anclior  at    llolsteiiiboi'g.   (ireenland.      Hall   was  uu- 


•?_■:-> 


l'44  THE   CUKAT    WIIITK   yoUTII 

successful  in  the  iiuiin  object  of  his  un(lertakin<i'  fhis  proposed 
j()urne\'  to  Kiu.u'  A\'illi;un  Landj  and  s])ent  the  ])est  ])ai-t  of 
two  \'ear>  near  I'Vohisiier  I^ay,  where  lie  accjiiii'ed  much  knowl- 
edge of  the  s])eech,  habits,  and  life  of  th(^  Eskimos,  and  dis- 
covered a  ([uantity  of  relics  left  by  Fro])isher's  (\\i)e(lition  of 
1.177  l.")7S. 

Of  the  fii'st  traditionary  history  ,e;ained  from  the  I^skimos 
relative  to  Frobislier's  (wj^edition,  Hall  sa}'s  in  notes  tmdc^r 
date  of  Apiil  0.  ISIil  :     - 

"Amon,u'  th(>  traditions  lianded  down  from  one  tieneration 
to  another,  there  is  this  :  tliat  many  —  very  man}'  years  a<io, 
some  w}iit(^  men  built  a  shi])  on  (Mie  of  the  i>land>  of  Frobisher 
I)a\'  and  went   away. 

"I  thinlc  I  can  >ee  throu<ih  this  in  this  way:  FrobisluT, 
in  l.")7S,  assembled  a  laru'e  ])ai't  of  his  fleet  in  what  he  called 
'('ountes-:  of  Warwick  Sound'  !  >aid  to  be  in  that  bay  below 
u>i,  Vviien  a  comicil  wa-  held  on  the  1st  of  Auji'ust,  at  which 
it  wa-;  determined  to  send  all  ])er-^()ns  and  thin,u;s  on  shore  ui")on 
'('()unte>-of  ^\'ai'W!ck  l>land'  ;  and  on  Au.u'ust  2d  orders  wer(^ 
])r()claimed,  by  sound  of  ti'um]iet,  for  the  (guidance  of  the 
compan\'  durinti'  th(-ii'  abode  thereon.  For  reasons  stated 
in  the  hii-lory.  the  comi)any  did  not  tai'i'y  here  lon^tr.  but  de- 
])arti'(l  U)v  '  Milii  fi'cnqnild.'  and  thence  to  hji.u'land.  how 
m:i\'  iKit  the  fact  of  limlier-.  chips,  etc..  etc..  lun'inti'  been  fuund 
on  ()!!''  of  ilie  i-Janib  within  a  da\''>  journey  oi'  hei'c)  many 
>'ear-  a'.:-o.  i)ro\-r  that  the  said  material^  Aver(>  of  thi<  l'"ro- 
lii-iicr'-  coni]);!ny,  a!id  1  hat  hence  the  Fmuit  ti-adition?  In  a 
f''W  diay-  1  h'ipc  to  b'>  cxploritiLi'  h'robi^hei'  ]);i\'." 

1  >r-^crii  liuLi-  t  he  cii'cum-lance-  of  hi-  interest  inu'  di-co\'ei'y  on 
(  oiinli-<of  W'ai'wi.e!.;    Maud.   Hall   wi'ile.-: 

••\\V  coniinued  on  .around  the  i-l.and.  findiim'.  (>\-er\'  lew 
fathom-  in  (tur  pi-oure--.  numei'oii-  Imuiit  relic<.  At  lenuih 
we  arrivi'd  at  a  plain  th,at  extende(l  back  a  considerable 
di-t.aiice  fr(,ni    tlif  eoa-t.      Here   We    recounizei  1,    at    oiu'  riu'ht. 


fllA  n  L  fS    FI!Ay<IS    IIA  L  L 


24." 


about  sixt}'  rods  distant,  the  jxHtit  to  wiiich  we  fii'st  diroctcd 
(_)ur  stcjjs  on  I'cachin^i,'  the  hi,a,(i  land  aJ'lcf  l(-a\"in,ii'  the  boat. 

"I  \\'as  s('\"cral  I'atlionis  in  advance  (jf  Kijo-ou-le-arng, 
hast('nin,ii'  on,  hcinji'  desirous  to  make  as  extended  a  searcli  as 
the  brief  i'eniainin,u'  da\'li<ilit  would  all<jw,  when,  liftin,u'  my 
eyes  from  tlie  ,u'i'ound  near  me,  1  dis('o^•er('d.  a  eonsid(>!'able 
di>tance  ahea<l,  an  obj(>('t  (jf  an  lunisual  appearance.  Rut  a 
second  look  satisfied  me  that  what  T  saw  wei'e  >ini])ly  stones 
scattered  about  and  covered  with  black  moss.  ]  contimu-d 
ni}'  course,  keepin,u'  as  near  the  coast  as  ])ossil)le.  I  was  now 
nt^arinji;  the  s])ot  where  I  had  first  descried  the  black  ol)ject. 
It  a,iiain  met  my  view  :  and  my  oi'i.uirial  tliouyht  on  first 
secin.ii  it  resumcnl  at  once  the  ascendency  in  my  min(h  I 
hastened  to  the  s])ot.  '(d'eat  Cod!  Thou  h.ast  rewai'ded 
me  in  my  search  I'  v.'as  the  sentiment  that  came  overwhelm- 
in<ii\'  into  my  thankful  soul.  On  casting-  my  (\\'es  all  ar(jund, 
seeip,,^  and  feelin,fi'  the  character  (n)oss-ag'e(l,  for  some  of  th.e 
pieces  I  sa\\'  had  i)ellicles  of  blaciv  nu.iss  on  them;  of  the  relics 
bef(jre  an<l  under  me,  I  felt  as  -  I  camiot  tell  wliat  my  fc'cl- 
ings  were  —  what  I  saw  befcjre  me  was  sui-cnal  of  Frobisher's 
exijedition  of  1.178,  left  here  near  thi'ce  centuries  ajio  ! '" 

A  more  thor(rd.<;'h  search  in  the  \'iciuiiy  undertalcen  at  a 
later  ])eriod  resulted  in  the  finding  of  {ii;it->i<jne  :  fragnu'iits 
of  tile,  ,uia».  jx^ttery,  an  exca\"ation  v.'hich  Hall  called  an 
ab'andoned  mine,  the  ruins  of  thi'ee  st(.)ne  !t(»u-es,  one  (^f  A\'hich 
was  tweh'e  feet  in  diameter,  \vith  }")alpable  e^■i(lence  of  its 
having  been  erected  on  a  foimdation  of  -tone  cemented  tc- 
gether  with  lime  and  sand  :  lai'ge  ])iece-  of  iron  lime-('at(  n  r.nd 
weather-W(jrn.  which  '"tlie  I'U.-t  of  tlu'ce  c(^ntiU'ie>  li;nl  liiml}- 
cement(-d  t<_)  the  sand  and  .-tones  in  A\"hich  it  had  lain." 

It  will  ])v  remeniber(Ml  that  of  the  one  Inmdred  men  .-(^it 
out  from  I'umiandi  with  Fi'obisliei-  in  ].")7S.  the  m:i,iorit\'  Avei-e 
n\iner<  sent  for  the  ex])i"e->  ])ur])():-e  of  diLi'iiimi'  for  tlie  ricli 
(ji'e  of   which    l'"robishei'   had   carried   s})ecimen-   home   on    hi-^ 


TIJE   GREAT    WHITE   yoUTII 


rctiii'n  iVoiii  his  >c(;(jii(l  \'.)yiv^v,  ;ui(l  which  was  suijj^o-cd  to  1j(; 
\'fiy  \-;;hii;ii)lc.  Th('  iiiiiici',-  made  '"  pi'oofs,"  as  thcx'aro  calkMl, 
ill  \;;ri(.)U>  i)art-  of  the  ri'uii^ns  (li-cox-crcd  l)y  him.  S(jnic  of 
ihc-c  "i)ro(M's'"  arc  (louhiilc.-<  what.  ('a])taiii  Hall  h^uiid,  and, 
in  connection  witli  (^thcr  circumstances.  e\-ideiiced  the  exact 
location  of  r"rohi>her"s  "('ounte.r-  of  Warwick  Mine."'  Cap- 
lain  Ilall  })re-ented  mnny  of  the  relics  he  br(r,mht  liome  to 
the  ])riti.-h  ,fio\'ernm(-nl  thi'(jn,u,h  the  liO}'al  ( '.e(.)gra})hical 
(Society  of  L(jndon. 

I'pon  hi-  return  t(j  Xew  Lcjudon  'September  lo,  lS(J2i.  Hall 
immediiately  eiidea\'(ju]'ed.  tliroii(j,!i  lectui'cs  and  personal 
ap])eal-,  to  equij)  another  exjjc'dition  to  the  Arctic.  The 
uii,-('1tled  st.ite  (jf  the  nation,  phm;z'''d  into  the  ho]'r<jrs  of  a 
<j.-r<'at  civil  Avar,  ma'le  \\\<  (■iVorts  ])ract  icall\'  futile  ;  undaimted 
by  tlie  <!i<courau'in,i!;  res!)OM<e,  he  iie\-erl  licless  sailed  July  1, 
\s\')\.  ;iii(l  ill  Auu'U-t  wa>  lande(l,  with  hi-;  meaLi,-re  equ!])inent, 
boat  and  pro\'i:-ions,  on  Depot  I-land.  IIU'l>on  l)ay,  tjl'  X,, 
do'  \\\  Ado])tin,u-  the  ha:-it>  and  life  of  the  Ivdvimo-,  Hall 
>pcnt  fi\-e  ye;u-<  in  ])Ui'suin'i,'  lii-  re>earche-.  i'ecei\-iii!i;  occa- 
sionally -Ujii)lii--~  from  wh;ilefs. 

I'he  fir.M  year  was  >pei:1  in  uit-ucce-sful  efforts  to  sernire 
IXkiliio  aid.  ddie  winter  of  I'-d."  iMili,  Hall  had  his  head- 
(;!i;irter-  ;;i  I'Ort  Hope,  bepul-e  Wvy.  aiid  in  the  sprim;' 
readied  Cnpe  A\"eyioi!.  f.s"  X.,  S!b'  \\ .  The  Hd^imo^  refused 
to  ;iccomp;iiiy  him  !';irt!;er.  but  he  had  the  u'ood.  fortuiu'  to 
nici't  witli  iia!i\'e>  who  had  \'i-ited!  the  (le-ei'tcd  -hi])-,  ainl 
h;:d  -'■•■11  r"f;,nivrni.  IbiH  -eciired  from  thc-e  hAhimos  con- 
-!de!';d'ie  -ij\-cr  bearititi'  tlie  cre-t  ot'  r'ranldin  ;md  otiiei' 
olii'-'-r-. 

ill  !'>bru;:i'>-.  I^»i7.  Ilc'l  \i-i!ed  I  Liloolik .  t  he  wi  1 !  t  er  ;  |Ua  rt  ei'< 
iif   !':■:'. -x^  ill    A-'LA'.      W     !'iipro\-c(  1   i!>c  next   y(;ir  I  )\'  fol'owiiiii; 

U')    d;'-    ^\'e^'     -id''    of    Ahh/iHe    i'cMin-liJ;i.    compl.'i  iijo;    juvl    -;ii!'- 

\-eyi'i'j,' 1  h'' -':(,!■;  u:.p  b(  :  wcM!  1  hu'"-  f;:  ri  h^-i .  isKi.  ;;iid  ParryA 
f-rd.i-;     ill     b>ir\-    Strait.     1  n_'o.      Ahi'    winter    oi'     b^tis    iMl!) 


CAPTALY  HALL  AND   ESKIMOS 


247 


('M'TAIX    !iAT.T>    AXIl    l"-r;/M( 


2 is  Tin-:  Gin-: AT  wiutk  yoirrii 

was  sjx'iit  at  I'"ort  Hojx',  where  h(>  at  last  succcHHlecl  in  secur- 
iiiii;  I'^skimo  aid  foi'  the  final  atleni])!  to  reach  Iving  William 
Lan<l.  lie  started  in  March,  IStJl),  in  conii)any  with  ten 
Iv-kinios  and  do.a;  sledges. 

('rossiiig  liae  Fenin>ula  to  ( 'onunittoe  Bay  and  rid  Boothia 
Isthnnis,  tl!e])art\'  reached  .Janu\s  Ross  Strait ,  distant  soint^ 
sixty  miles  t'roni  King  \\'iniam  Land.  Here  he  had  difficnUy 
in  pei'snading  the  nati\'(\s  to  contimie,  bnt  at  Simi^son  Island 
the  snccess  ol'  a  nnisk-ox  hnnt  restoi'cd  their  good  humonr, 
and  t}ie\'  consented  to  proccMMl.  On  tlu^  12th  of  Alay,  ISdO, 
Ilal!  reached  the  mainland  ;  his  stay  was  necessarily  \-eiy 
l)i-ief,  as  his  native  com])anions  conld  not  be  jx-rsnaded  to 
lingei-  in  such  a  desolate  countiy. 

I 'poll  his  I'elurn  to  liepulse  l^ay,  ( 'ai)tain  Kail,  in  a  lett(a' to 
]\Ii'.  Hem-y  (iriimell,  dated  June  20,  1S()!),  writes  in  part  :  — 

"The  result  oi'  my  sledge  join'ne\'  to  King  William's  Land 
may  he  summed  uj)  tinis  :  None  of  Sir  .hihn  I'VankHn's  com- 
patiions  e\'er  reached  oi'  died  on  Alonti'cal  Island.  It  was  lat(i 
in  .lul\',  IS  IS,  tli<at  ( 'I'o/ier  and  his  pai't\'  of  about  forty  or 
forly-fi\'e  passed  down  the  W(>st  coast  of  iving  William's 
Land  in  the  \'icinity  of  ( '.ajx^  Ilei'^ciiel.  The  ])arty  was  drag- 
ging two  sledges  on  tlie  sea-ice,  which  was  nearly  in  its  last 
stage  (tf  di><olution  :  one  a  lai'ge  sledu'e  la<len  with  an  awning- 
C()\-cr(>d  boat,  atid  t!ie  other  a  small  one  laden  with  ])i'o\-isioiis 
ani  camp  material,  .lust  befoi'e  ('i-oziei'  a!id  party  ari'i\'ed 
at  ( 'apf  IIer<chel,  th(\\'  were  met  by  four  families  of  nati\('s, 
.and  both  partie>  went  into  camp  neai'  each  othci'.  Two 
L.-kimo  niiai,  who  wei'c  of  the  natix'c  ])ai't>',  ga\'e  me  much 
-ad.  bill  deeply  iiit  "!'e-t  iiig.  infoi'Uiat  ion.  Some  o!'  it  stu'red 
my  li'Mrt  with  ^adne^s,  intermingled  with  ra.ge,  for  it  w;t-^  a 
(■oiife--ion  that  t!ie\.  with  tlieir  coinp.anious.  did  ,-ecretly  .and 
ha-tily  .abandon  ( 'I'ozier  and  his  p.ai'ty  to  sul't'er  and  (he  for 
iieeil  of  iVe-h  pro\i-;on-.  when  in  truth  it  was  in  tlu'  ])()wer 
of   the   iiatixc--   to  s.axc  e\er\-   man   ah\c.      I'he  next    trace  of 


HALL  S    SECONJ)   J 01' IIS EY 


241) 


( "rozicr  and  his  party  is  to  be  found  in  tlie  skeleton  •\vhich 
Ar( 'lintoelv  discovered  a  little  below,  to  the  southward  and 
eastward  of  C'ai)e  Ilersehel.  This  was  never  found  by  the 
natives.  The  next  trace  is  a  cam])ing  ])lace  on  the  sea-shore 
of  Kinj),  William's  Land,  about  three  miles  eastward  of 
J'feffer  lvi\'ei',  where  two  men  died  and  i-eceived  ("luistian  f  ?j 
burial.  At  this  place  fish-l)ones  were  found  ])y  the  natives, 
which  showed  them  that  Crozier  and  his  jiarty  had  cau<:lit 
while  tluM-e  a  species  of  fish  excellent  f(jr  food,  with  wliich  the 
sea  th.ere  al)ounds.  The  nt'xt  trace  of  this  ]:»arty  occurs  about 
five  or  six  mil(\s  eastward,  on  a  lon<i-  point  of  Kiuf^'  William's 
Land,  where  on(^  man  died  and  was  buried.  Then  about 
south-southeast  two  and  a  half  miles  further,  the  next  trace 
occurs  on  Todd's  Islet,  where  the  remains  of  five  men  lie. 
The  next  certain  trace  of  this  ])arty  is  on  the  west  side  of  tlu; 
isk^t,  west  of  Point  Richardson,  on  some  low  land  that  is  an 
island  or  joai't  oi  the  nrainland,  as  the  tide  may  be.  Here 
t!ie  a\vnini':-covere(l  boat  and  the  remains  of  about  thirty 
or  thirty-five  of  ("rozi(>r's  party  w(n'e  found  by  the  native 
roo-}'et-ta,  of  whom  Sir  John  lioss  has  <i:iven  a  dcv^cription 
in  the  account  of  his  voya<i"e  in  the  ]'ictnrij  in  1820  '34.  Li 
tlie  spring  of  1S40,  a  lar<2;e  t(Mit  was  found  by  the  natives  whom 
1  saw,  the  floor  of  which  was  completeh'  co\-ered  with  the 
r(iriains  of  white  men. 

"('lo>e  by  were  two  <2;rav(N.  This  tent  was  a  little  way 
inland  from  the  head  of  4^'rroi'  I'ay.  In  th(>  >])rin,<2;  of  ISfil, 
when  the  snow  was  iicarlx'  all  <i;one,  an  I']skimo  ])arty.  con- 
ducted by  a  nati\'e  well  known  thi'ou,<i'hout  the  northern  re- 
iiioiis.  found  two  boats,  witli  maii\'  >keIe1ons  in  and  alxjut 
ihcm.  ( )iie  of  these  boats  hail  been  ])re\-i()usly  i'oiuid  by 
^rC'lintoek  :  the  othei'  was  found  lyinii;  fi'om  a  ([Uai'ter  to  :i 
half  mile  distant,  and  tnu<t  have  b<'en  com])!etely  entoml)ed 
in  .<now  ;it  the  time  ALC 'liutock's  parties  were  ther(>.  of  th(\v 
nio.-^t   assuredb"  would  ha\'e  seen  it.     In  and  about  this  boat. 


2.-)0  THE   (rllEAT    WIIJTK   XOllTII 

bosido  tlic  skeleton-  alliuled  to,  were  found  many  rc'lics.  most 
of  them  simi];ir  in  ctun'cietei'  to  tlio.-e  MX'lintoek  has  enu- 
merated as  ha\'!n.u'  In-cn  found  in  tiie  h{jat  he  (hseovf^red.  I 
tried  hard  to  aecom])li-h  far  moi'e  than  I  (Ud,  ]»ut  not  on(-  of 
the  compari}'  would  on  any  aceount  whatev(-r  consc-nt  t(j 
remain  with  me  in  that  ('(^untry  and  mai^e  a  .-ummer  search 
o\'er  that  i-lan(h  \\'hie]i,  fj-om  information  I  had  ji'ained  from 
the  nati\"es.  I  had  i'('a-on  to  .-U])])o>e  W(jiild  !>(■  i'(-\s-ard(-d  hv 
the  di>co\-ery  of  the  A\'hole  of  the  manu>eri])t  records  tliat 
liad  heen  accumulale(l  in  that  ,Cireat  exjH'dilion,  and  had  l)fen 
(leposit(Ml  in  a  \"auli.  a  little  way  inland  oi'  ea>!ward  of  ("ape 
Mctory.  Knowinu'  a-  I  now  (k)  the  character  of  the  l-i.-ldnu^s 
in  that  pai't  of  the  cotmiiy  in  which  Kinu'  A\'illiam'>  Land  is 
situatC'd,  I  caniKjt  vronder  at  nor  klame  the  {ii'|)ul<e  J:)a.y 
nati\-es  foi-  their  I'efu.-al  \o  remain  there  a-  I  de.-ir.'di.  It  is 
(juite  ]")rol)al)le  that,  had  we  remained  tlu^rc'  a>  I  wi-h(M|.  no 
one  of  u.-  wouM  i\-(-r  ha\"r  j:ot  out  of  the  country  alive. 
How  could  we  (■x])('Ct,  if  ^ve  uot  into  straitened  circumstance.-;, 
that  we  wouhl  r('Cei\'e  kf'tter  treatmc'nt  from  the  ri-fdmo-  (.)f 
that  cfjuntry  than  liie  lOo  .-oul>  \\'ho  were  imder  the  com- 
]uan(l  of  the  heroic  Croziei-  some  time  after  latnlimi'  on  Kinu; 
A\"illiam"s  Land?  CimH  I  and  my  ])arly  wil'i  rf-a-otiaMe 
safety  h;i\'e  reiriainc'd  to  make  a  sunnner  -earch  on  Kini;; 
\\'illiam"-  Laiid,  il  i-  not  only  ])!'(il  laliie  that  we  .-liouM  ha\"e 
rec()\-ered  the  loo-  and  joui'nal-  i)f  Sir  John  Lranklin"-  Ik\])e- 
(litinn.  hut  ]ia\'e  u'athered  Up  and  (iilomhed  the  remain-  of 
nea!'l\-  ini)  of  hi-  compaliicn-  :  i^^V  the-v'  lie  akiiut  the  plaee-; 
\\-heiT  i|ic  threi'  koat-  ha\'e  even  keen  found  and  at  the  larire 
caiiciinu-plaee  at  l!ie  head  nf  Teri'or  I5ay  and  the  tlire.-  oilaT 
]ilaei-  th;i;  I  !ia\'e  ah'eadiy  lii'^hl  ioliei  1.  \\\  ttie  vnv^-.  we-t 
.-ide  (if  I'liiiit  l;iehard-(  111,  hoWc\"er,  iialUl'e  her-e|f  ha-  Oj)(ne(l 
h'-r  kii-iiiii  and  L:.i\eii  -I'pul'iu'e  Id  the  kiiiK-  oi'  ilic  immoHal 
h'a'Mc-;  who  (lli'il  th(a'(\  \\'herr\-er  the  l-k!dmo-  ha\'e  found 
the   ura\e-   (ji'    I'Vaid^iin',-   companion-,    they   hax'e   dn'X  ihem 


RELICS    OF  Slli   JOHN   FUAyh'LIX  251 

open  and  robbed  the  dead.  leaviii<^'  tlunn  exposed  to  the  rav- 
a,u,('s  of  wild  l)east-.  On  Todd's  Island,  the  rc^niains  of  iive 
men  were  not  buried  :  but,  after  the  savat^es  had  rol^bed  them 
oi  vYcvy  article  that  could  be  tui'ned  to  account  for  their  use, 
their  (l()(is  were  allowed  to  finish  the  dis<;iistin<i,'  work.  The 
nati\'(^  who  conducted  my  native  party  in  its  sc'arch  over 
Ivinp:  A\'illiani"s  Land  is  the  same  individual  who  gave  J)r.  Rae 
the  i\r>t  inhjrmation  about  white  men  havinu'  died  to  the 
we>tward  of  where  he  (])r.  Raej  then  was  (Telly  Bay)  in  tlic 
sj)i'in<i-  of  1S.")1.  His  name  is  In-nook-])oo-zh(~-jook,  and  he  is 
a  native  of  Xeitchille,  a  very  <ireat  traveller  and  veiy  intelli- 
gent, lie  is,  in  fact,  a  Vt"alking  history  of  tlu^  fate  of  Sir 
John  franklin's  j-L\])editi()n.  This  native  1  met  wluMi  within 
one  day's  siedo(>  joui'nc^A'  of  King  ^Mlliam's  Land  —  off  Point 
])r}'(len  ;  and  after  sto])ping  a  few  days  among  his  people, 
he  accom])anie(l  me  to  tlie  ])laces  I  visited  on  and  aljout 
King  A\'illia.m's  Land. 

"1  could  })a^■e  readily  gathered  ciuantities  —  a  xvry  great 
\"ariety  of  relics  of  .">ir  .John  I'ranklin's  expedition,  ior  the}' 
are  now  ])o-sess(>(l  by  natives  all  over  tlie  Arctic  l{egi(jns  that 
1  \'isited  ()]■  lieard  (jf  —  from  Pon.d's  I'ay  to  Mackenzie  1v!V(M'. 
As  it  was,  1  had  t(_;  be  satisfied  with  taking  U])on  our  sledges 
about  12.")  ])ouuds  total  weight  of  relics  fi'om  natives  about 
King  William's  Land.  Some  of  these  I  will  enumerate  : 
1.  A  jioH  ion  (;f  one  side  (se^-eral  ])lanks  and  rilx  fast  togetluM') 
of  a  boat,  clinkei'-built  and  co])))ei'-fastene(l.  This  ])art  of  a 
boat  is  of  the  one  found  n(^ar  the  boat  found  by  AL( 'lintock's 
])arty.  2.  A  small  oak  sledge-i'UJin.ei'.  reduced  fi'oiu  the 
sledge  on  which  the  boat  rested,  -'k  I'art  of  the  ma-t  of  the 
Xorthwc'st  Pa<.-au'e  shl]).  4.  ( "hr()nom(-ter-box.  Avit  h  its  num- 
ber, name  of  1 1ll'  maker,  and  the  (>*ueen's  broad  ai'row  engi'aved 
U])on  it.  .").  Two  lonu'  h(a\\v  sheets  of  co])[)er.  three  and  four 
inches  AN'iile,  with  countersunk  holes  foi-  screw-nails.  ( )n 
th<'.-('  >he(Ms,  as  well  as  on  most   evervthing  else  that  ciune 


■l.rl  TllK   CHEAT    WIUTE  ^OIITH 

frointlu^  Xoiiliwcst  J'assa,>io  ship,  arc  nuniorous  stamps  of  the 
(Queen's  broad  arrow.  ().  ]\[aliojz;any  W]'iting-(lesk,  elabo- 
rately iinisluMl  and  bound  in  brass.  7.  AIan\-  pieces  of  silver- 
l)late,  forks,  and  s])oons,  bearin*;-  crests  and  initial  of  the 
owners.  8.  Parts  of  watches.  9.  Knives  and  very  many 
otlu^r  thin<;s  which  you,  Mr.  CJrinnell,  and  others  interested 
in  the  fate  of  the  Franklin  Ex])edition,  will  take  a  sad  interest 
in  ins])ectin<i;  on  their  arrival  in  the  Staters,  ()\\v  (nitire  skele- 
ton 1  have  brou<;ht  to  the  United  Stat(>s." 

Hall,  sonu^  tim(>  aft(>r  his  return,  ])lac(Ml  tlu^  carefully 
])r(>served  remains  in  cliai'<2;e  of  ^Nlr.  l^rc^voort,  of  Brooklyn, 
who  transf(n'r(Ml  them  to  Admiral  Tn<i;lefleld,  Pi.  X.,  to  be 
forwarded  to  Pn-2,'lan(l.  Subscnjut^ntl}'  (by  the  \)\\i\i  of  a  tooth) 
th(>  skek^ton  was  identified  as  the  remains  of  Lieutenant 
\'econt(\  of  the  KrcJ)Us. 

The  same  y(>ar  that  the  Krcbu-^  and  Terror  were  abandoncMl, 
on(M)f  them  consunnnat(Ml  the  ('.r(>at  Northwest  Passa,u'e,  ha\'- 
ini!,-  five  m(>n  abotird.  The  (n'idenc(>  of  the  (>xact  nmnber  is 
cii-cumstantial.  l:]v(Mytliini!;  about  this  Xort Invest  Pass;i,o;(^ 
shi])  was  in  c()m])lete  order.  It  was  found  l)y  the  Ood-joo-lik 
natives  near  ()'Pi(>illy  Island,  latitude  (iS''  :]()'  X.,  longitude 
0!)^  W".,  early  in  the  s])rin^'  of  ISb),  frozen  in  the  midst  of 
a  floe  of  only  one  wint(M''s  formatiom 

With  the  unwillina;  consciousness  that  lie  could  accom- 
])li>li  nothini;,'  further  of  res(>arch  in  the  Pi'ozen  Regions,  ('ap- 
tain  Hall  had  now  to  think  of  a  return  to  the  Pnited  State<  ; 
])in'p()-in,ii'  tJKM'e  to  collate  and  ])ublish  the  result  of  his  ])r()- 
tracted  Arctic  exix'ricncc,  then  to  make  his  loiiti,'  meilitated 
\-o\:mc  to  the  Pole,  and,  if  possible,  aJ'tcrward  re\'i>it  King 
\\  illiam's  Land. 

In  n',u,;u'(l  to  his  ])l;uis  he  writes:  — 

'■  I  hope  to  stall  next  spi'luij,-  with  a  vc^-scl  for  Jones"  Sound, 
and  ilienc*'  toward  the  Xortli  I'oh*  as  far  a<  nax'iti'at  ion  \\"ill 
pci'Miil.      'I'll!'  f()ll(Avin,u  >p|-in,u-,  l)\'  >l(>d,i!,c  joui-ney,  I  will  make 


HALL  S   BKTURX    TO    THE    UMTKI)    STATES         2.>] 

for  the  ti,()al  of  my  ambition,  the  North  Pole.  I  do  liopc  t<j 
he  abl(^  to  resume  snow-hut  and  tcMit  encam])ment  very  near 
the  Pole  by  the  hitter  })art  of  1870,  and  much  nearer,  indeed 
at  the  \-ery  Pole,  in  the  spring  following,  to  wit,  in  bS71. 
TluM'e  is  no  us(^  in  man's  saying,  it  cannot  l)e  done  —  that  the 
Xortli  Pole  is  beycjnd  our  reach.  P>y  judicious  ])lans,  and  })y 
ha\'ing  a  carefully  selected  company,  I  trust  wilh  a  lieaven- 
]^i'f)tecting  care  to  reach  it  in  less  time,  and  witli  far  less 
mental  anxieti(>s,  than  I  hav(>  ex}")erienced  to  get  to  King 
William's  Land.  I  have  always  held  to  the  opinion  tliat 
whoever  would  lead  the  way  there  should  first  liave  yc^ars  of 
experience  among  the  wild  natives  of  the  Xorth  :  and  this  is 
one  of  my  reasons  for  sul)mitting  to  searching  so  long  for  the 
l()<t  ones  of  Franklin's  Expedition." 

The  exi)ression  of  such  ])ur])ose>,  including  that  of  a  subs(^- 
({uent  return  1()  King  AMlliam's  Land,  is  certainly  remarkable, 
as  coming  from  one  whose  sledge  journc^vs  only,  during  the 
five  years  wliich  now  closed  U])()n  him,  exceedcnl  the  aggregate 
of  f(jur  thousand  miles.  A  willingness  ^'to  resume  snow-hut 
and  tent"  Avould  seem  explicable  only  by  su])])()sing  that 
next  to  the  lofty  ideas  with  which  his  mind  enthusiastically 
iu\'ested  everything  Arctic,  was  the  extreme  of  a  strange 
fascination  with  the  uncouth  life  he  had  been  leading.  H(^ 
>ays  himself,  at  ;ibout  thi>  same  date,  that  tliere  was  nothing 
in  the  way  of  food  in  which  tlie  nativ(\<  delighted  that  he  did 
not  d(>light  in,  and  that  this  may  a])peai-  strange  to  some, 
!iUT  wa^  //•//(.  He  had  that  d.ay  "a  grand  good  feast  on  the 
kind  of  meat  lie  had  been  longing  for  -the  (\vvv  kill(Ml  last 
fall  :  r()tt(^n,  strong,  and  <tin.kinsj.',  and  for  these  (lUalilies. 
excellent  for  Imnii'>  and  for  llie  \\Titer." 

Hall,  accomjiaiiied  by  his  faithful  I-]-kimo  friends.  .loe. 
ILinnah,  and  her  ado])te(l  child  Pun-na,  returned  to  New 
liedford.  Ma<>aeliu-et1<.  ."^e])1ember  2(;.  lS(i!).  When  off  the 
liubthouse  of    Xa.ntucket.   ALissachu>et t<.   Hannah    and    her 


:2o4 


TIIK    (iUEAT    WIIITK   y OUT II 


child  (lro]i]MMl  tlioir  native  dresses  and  put  on  those  of  a 
(■i\'ilize([  hind. 

linniedi;aely  upon  his  j'eturn  to  the  States,  ('a])tain  Hall 
endea\'oured  to  ar()U>e  ])ul)lic  interest  in  hi>  lon,<i-cherish('d 
])lan  for  an  ex])edition  Xo  the  Pole.  By  untirinii  ])ers()nal 
efforts  and  the  su])])ort  of  enthusiastic  friend.-,  he  -ucceedeil 
in  en.ti'atiin.L!;  the  attention  of  ( '(jn^i!;re>s,  which  authorizeil  '•An 
]-l\])editi()n  to  the  Xorth  Polcj  the  only  one  in  the  hi-tory  (jf 
the  nation.""  Fift\'  tliou<and  d(dlars  was  a])])ropriated  for 
ex])enses  arid  a  vf'>>el  sclectedi  fn_)ni  the  nav}'.  \\'liich  was  thor- 
ou,Li:hly  fitte(l  out  at  an  ex])en>e  of  ninety  thousand  niort'. 

'■Xe\'erwa-  an  Arctic  ex])e(lition  more  c(;iji])lct('ly  fitted 
out,'"  \vi-(jte  Ihdl.  at  ( iodhax'eii.  in  a  letter  home  Au^mist  22. 

The  Pi'Inris.  in  command  (d'  Captain  Ilalh  ^\■ith  S.  (). 
Rud<linii;t(jn  as  -^ailinu-ma-tcr.  Dr.  I'mil  Pm's-c1-  in  char_ii'e  of 
tlie  .-ci<'ntific  work,  and  twenty-four  others,  .-ailed  from  X(-w 
London.  ( 'onnecticut.  July  .'].  I'^Tl.  At  l^i-o\"en.  Han,-,  the 
do^'  drivel',  who  had  .-er\'e(l  with  Kane  and  Hayi-.  acconi- 
l")anied  hy  hi<  wife  and  lhr(-e  children,  wa-  takf-n  alxjard. 

The  Fnlnris  encountcrefl  a  u'l'eat  deal  of  ice  at  tli*'  en- 
trancf'  of  W'ol^tcnholme  Soundi,  so  that  the  ])a-sa,u'('  thi'ou<i'h 
it  Wa.-  eff('Ctc(l  with  nnich  difficulty.  Steannnu'  throuu'h  the 
lead-,  she  \\'a-  comix'lled  to  stop  for  the  fir>t  time  off  the 
wc.-tern  >hoi'c  of  IIaklu\'t  I-land  nn  Auuu>t  27. 

1)\-  .\uuu-t  20.  -he  -tood  in  latitude  ,s2'  11'  X..  lia\-ino; 
>ucc(-.~^fully  na\'Ii!.'ated  Kane  Pja-in.  Kenneily  rhaiUK-l,  Hall 
I  Sa-in.  and  l!ol  ie,-i  in  (  'harm  el,  and  into  the  Pc'la!'  ."^ea.  I  nahle 
to  ri'Uain  hei'  pM-itlun  1  )y  the  foi'ce  oi'  the  current,  -lie  I'ciui'ned 
-muhwai'd  and  went  into  winter  fjUai'ter-  in  Sp  .'J^'  north 
l:ttilnde  at   Thank  (  lod   llaiPor,  (  '.reenlaiid. 

<  ';ipt:iiiL  Hail  w;;-  \"ei'y  di'-irou-  df  inakimi'  ;i  -icdu',.  journey 
kefdre     tiie     Winter     ~cl      in.     tPr     t}],-      pUI'po-e    of      I'l 'Con  Uoi  1  T!  11^ 

.•ind  -'pi-tinu  the  ki'-i  iMuic  lor  !ii-  uim-o  journe>'  in  the  .-])rin,u' 

lov>ard   the   Pole. 


Fr\i;TiAi.  (jF  ('ai'taix  II: 


DEATH   OF  HALL  Zoo 

By  the  2Sth  of  S('i)te]ii}j(n',  tho  final  preparations  for  this 
journey  w(M'e  eonq^lete.  The  dogs  were  selected  and  carefully 
fed.  The  Eskimos  had  i)ut  the  sledge  in  order,  and  those 
selected  to  acconi])any  Captain  Hall  were  busy  making  their 
l)ersunal  prc^parations.  Xot  until  tlie  10th  of  October  was 
the  start  hnalh'  made,  Hall  being  accompanied  by  Air. 
Chester  and  the  Eskimos,  Joe  and  flans. 

On  the  24th  of  Octolx'r,  the  sl(Mlge  party  returned,  having 
reached  as  far  north  as  Cape  Brevoort,  82°  X.  They  had  all 
been  well,  during  their  two  weeks'  absence,  with  the  exception 
of  Ca])tain  Hall,  wluj  had  complain(>d  that  he  did  not  feel  his 
wonted  vigour  and  endurance  ;  and  for  the  last  three  days  had 
not  h>lt  at  all  well. 

He  had  fre(|ucntly  ex])resse(l  his  sur])rise  during  the  journey 
tliat  he  was  not  able  to  run  befor(>  the  sleds  and  encourage  the 
dogs,  as  on  fornaa-  ex])editions,  but  had  been  com]ielled  to 
keej)  (HI  the  sled.  Captain  Hall  had  not  been  aljoard  half 
lui  hour  l)(>fore  he  was  taken  violently  ill,  and  by  8  p.m. 
his  entire  left  side  was  ])araly2(Ml  as  the  result  of  an  a]w- 
])l(H'tic  attack.  By  the  evening  of  the  2.")th,  he  ^\■as  delirious  ; 
on  Xovemb(a'  7,  he  sank  into  a  comatose^  state,  ])reathing 
lle;!^'ily  :  he  j'emained  in  this  condition  luitil  3  :  25  a.:m,  of 
the  Slh.  when  he  died. 

The  sad  n('Ws  was  l)roken  to  tlie  slii])'s  company,  and  none 
h'lt  his  loss  ]ii()r(^  than  the  l^>kimos,  Joe  and  H;mnah,  who  had 
been  liis  constant  com])anions  f(jr  nearl}'  ten  years.  These 
faithful  fi'lends  liad  looked  U})on  him  as  a  father,  and  were 
now  h(\u't-l)roken. 

On  Xovember  11,  Ca])tain  Ge()rge  Tyson,  assistant  navi- 
gator of  the  exj)ed.ition,  wr()t(>  in  his  diary:  — 

■'As  we  went  to  the  gi'ave  tliis  morning,  tlie  cofhn  liauled 
on  a  >ledge,  o\'er  which  was  s])i-e;id.  insl(>ad  of  a  pall,  the  Anua'- 
icaii  flag,  we  walked  in  ]H'oce<>ion.  I  walked  on  with  my 
lantern   a   litth.^   in   advance  ;    then   came   the   captain     and 


:l'){j  THE   CHEAT    WHITE  yOUTIl 

officers,  the  en,^ineer,  Dr.  Bessel,  and  ^vleyers  ;  and  then  the 
crew,  hauhn<i,'  the  bod}'  by  a  ro]je  attached  to  the  .sledge, 
one  of  the  men  on  the  right  holding  another  lantern.  Nearly 
all  are  dressed  in  skins,  and,  were  there  other  eyes  to  see  us, 
v.'e  .-hould  l(j()k  like  an\-thing  ])ut  a  funeral  cortege.  Tin.- 
Eskinio>  foll(AV(Hl  the  crew.  There  is  a  weird  sort  of  light 
in  the  air.  ]xu'tly  boreal  or  electric,  through  wliich  the  stars 
shone  Ijrightly  at  11  a.m.,  while  on  our  \x\xy  to  the  grave. 

"Thus  end  poor  Hall's  ambitious  projects;  thus  is  >tilled 
the  effervescing  enthusiasm  of  as  ardent  a  nature  as  I  ever 
knew.  Wise  he  might  not  always  have  been,  but  his  soul 
was  in  this  work,  and  had  he  lived  till  sj)ring.  I  think  he  wcjuld 
liave  gone  as  far  as  mortal  man  could  go  to  accompli.-li  his 
mission.  But  with  his  death  I  fear  that  all  ho])es  of  further 
progress  will  have  to  be  abandt^ned."" 

The  death  of  Captain  Hall  i)roved  to  be  fatal  t(j  the  main 
object  of  the  expedition  —  the  attaimnent  of  the  Pole  :  if 
possil)le  —  or  the  ab-(.)lute  proof  of  its  inacccs.-ibility.  The 
connnand  of  the  expedition  now  devolved  ujxju  Captain 
Buddington. 

."Several  unsuccessful  Ijoat  journeys  t(.)  the  north  were  f(.)l- 
lowcd  by  a  sledge  journey  under  Dr.  P)e»el-.  to  Peterjuanu 
I'iord.  Another  bcjat  jouniey  b}-  Mr.  ( 'lie>ter  reached  Xcw- 
mau  l>a\'.  bui  it  was  left  t(j  ."^ergeant  F.  Meyei-,  ."Signal  Corjjs, 
r.  S.  Army,  to  reach  on  foot  the  most  northei'ly  lan<l  at  that 
timi-  i-xi'V  reached  l)y  civilized  man.  near  lve])ul-e  Harbor, 
ST  [)[)'  X. 

On  the  lllli  of  August,  1S72,  the  ice  of  the  strait<  wa-  ol)- 
serx'cd  to  bo  in  motion,  drifting  to  the  s()Uth.  ^\  illi  the  hojio 
of  rolca.-imi'  the  >hi]>  and  !-ei  uruintj;  home.  Cai)tain  Ijuddiiiu- 
ton.  aflcr  an  (•xamination  of  the  ice,  decided  it  would  be  -afe 
to  force  the  \-e--e!  throuuh.  At  C  MO  P.M.  the  eniiine-  were 
started,  and  the  I'nlnris  left  Tliaiik  ( '.od  Hai'bor  :  witli  ,ureat 
cai'e  till    \'e~-el  wa-  ])i!i)!ed  between  the  heavy  floe-,  chaiming 


"POLARIS''   ADRIFT  AMOXC    THE   ICEBERGS       257 

lu'f  course  frtHiucntly,  hut  always  gaining  ground.  l)y  \\\c 
iStii,  she  stood  79^  44'  80"  X. 

On  the  27th,  every  i)r(^i)aration  was  made  for  a  i)ossible 
abandon ment  of  the  vessel.  A  house  was  built  on  the  floe, 
as  a  retreat  in  case  the  shij)  should  be  destroyed.  For 
neai'l\'  two  months  the  Polaris  drifted  southward  at  th(>  nicu'cy 
of  the  ice-pack,  and  was  ni})ped  near  Little  Island  by  October 
13. 

•'At  o  A.M.  of  the  loth  (Octol)er),"  writes  Admiral  Davis 
in  his  '■  Narrative  of  the  North  Polar  Expedition,"  "a  very 
heavy  snow  began  to  fall,  and  continued  until  8  a.m.,  wlien 
the  wind  blew  so  hard  that  it  was  impossible  to  distingui>h 
b(>tw(HMi  the  falling  and  drifting  snow.  The  gale  increased  all 
day,  (hiving  the  vessel  with  its  surrounding  ice  with  great 
ra])idity.  It  commenccHl  to  l)low  from  the  S.  E.,  but  shifted 
to  the  S.,  and  finally  to  th(^  S.  W.  Duriiig  its  prevalence^  the 
air  was  so  com])letely  filled  with  th(^  flying  snow  that  one 
could  not  see  more  than  20  or  oO  feet.  The  ship  had  r(>mained 
fast  to  the  fioc^  so  long,  and  drifted  with  it  so  far,  that  no  par- 
ticular anxiety  was  felt  as  to  tlu^  rc^sult. 

"d'he  cai)tain.  had,  however',  always  said  that  if  the  vess(4 
]ias-ed  through  Smith  Strait,  he  would  not  fcM-l  easy  until 
the  ice  in  whicli  sh(>  lay,  had  join^'d  the  regular  Baffin's  13ay 
])ack. 

"The  'noi'tli-water,'  as  it  is  called  ])y  whalemen,  is  always 
found  in  th(^  northern  ])art  of  Baffin  Bay,  and  lie  kn^ew  that, 
wei'c  t!ii-  safely  cross(Ml.  \\\v  ship  would  ilotit  (juieily  dcnvn 
with  the  i^ick  all  winter,  and  be  released  in  th(^  spring  far  to 
t!u'  south. 

"4'he  dii'CH'tion  in  \\iiich  tlie  vess(>l  was  movii\g  was  a  matter 
of  sixcuhition  :  tlie  fact  of  Ikm-  moving  wris  admitted.  Tlit^ 
daily  AVork  l)eing  don(\  after  dinner  th(>  men  settled  tliem^eh'es 
down  ;i<  u-ual  for  the  enjoyments  of  the  evening.  At  <>  p.m., 
it  wa-  i-eported  that  the  starboard  sid(>  of  the  vessel  was  ivvo 


■2'^S  THE   <;LIEAT    WIIITK  NORrif 

tVoin  ice.  The  captain,  tunicilout  the  crew,  aiul  .■^ccurod  the 
^liip  l)\'  an  additional  hawser  t(j  the  ihje.  Tliis  extra  hawser 
was  (A'cr  the  >tern  and  Icil  from  a  lav^v  iee-auehor.  sunk  in 
the  hoc  to  the  niain-niast.  Two  haws'-rs  had  ser\'ed  (hirin<2; 
the  whole  ol'  the  drift  to  hold  the  Polcris  to  the  Hoc,  one  o\'er 
the  hows  and  one  o\'er  the  stern.  Final  pi'cparations  were 
made  to  ahandon  the  vessel,  nearly  e\"erythin,ii  had  been  <iot 
read\'  on  deck  ;  the  seamen  still  had  theii'  chjthes  and  personal 
effects  to  look  after. 

"The  Pnlaris  \va>  drixcn  alon^i,'  at  a  \"ery  i'a))id  I'ate.  Alrmy 
easier  face-  lookcil  o\-ei'  the  I'ail  and  ])eere(l  int(j  the  darkness 
and  the  liloom.  wonderinu,'  what  \\'oulil  ha]»])en  next.  The 
sk'y  was  threat erhn^ii'.  'hhe  moon  st I'uuuled  in  vain  to  break 
thronii'h  the  (■lou<l-.  Two  iceberus  were  ])asse(l  in  close 
])r(_)ximity.  Some  jiid,mnent  could  be  formeil  by  means  of 
them  as  to  the  ra])idil\'  with  wiiich  the  \-e>s(-l  wa>  nio\inu'. 
One  c()uld  scarcely  help  shuddei'in,u  as  he  thought  of  the  v{_>n- 
se(juences  of  rumnn,Li'  into  one  of  those  ^ii'iiiantic  ice-mounta.his. 
( )n(^  or  two  ])ersons  thought  the  land  was  vi>ible,  btit  it  was 
ver\-  uncertain. 

"  \\  ~  :'.]()  tlie  ve--el  I'an  amonu'  some  iceher.us,  which 
lirou.uht  up  the  floe  to  which  >he  was  attached  :  at  the  -;ame 
tiiue.  the  paci\  clo^eij  up,  jamiuin.ii'  hef  hea\'il>' :  it  was  then 
the  ves-el  secured  hei'  severe>f  nip.  It  is  hard  to  desci'ib(> 
tiic  eh'ect  of  that  pi'e--ure.  Sh<'  .-hook  and  ti'embled.  She 
\\'a-  rai-c'l  up  Ixxlily  and  ihi'own  o\-ei-  (in  hei'  ])ort  -ide.  Her 
timbeiv-  cfaeked  with  loud  re])ort.  e-perially  about  llie  -tern, 
^fhe  -iile^  -ecMied  to  be  breaking  iu.  I'lie  cleat  to  which  one 
of  ilie  afle  liaw-C'iv  wa.-  attached  -napped  off.  and  the  liaw>er 
w;i<  .-ecured  to  the  ma-!.  <  hie  of  llie  fii'eiiKti,  liui'i'yinii'  on 
deck,  I'ejiorted  that  ;i  piece  of  ire  had  been  driven  thi'oiiuh  the 

-wle-.  l\-i'ape  from  ile-1  ruet  ion  -ecmed  to  be  in!])0--iblc. 
Till'  pt'e^^uri'  ;m(l  the  iioi-e  incrcM-ed  tou'elhei'.  The  \-iolence 
of  thi'  niLihl,  and  the   lirindinii'  of  the  ice,  added   to   I  he  hol'for 


THE    WIUJCK   OF   THE   "POLARIS''  2o9 

of  th(^  situation.  Fcclinji,'  it  was  extremely  douljtful  whether 
tile  ship  would  stand,  ( 'aptain  Jkiddiii^tou  ordered  ])rovisions 
and  st(_)re.>  to  be  thrown  ui)on  the  ie(>.  Then  followed  a  busy 
scene.  Each  one  was  deeply  impressed  with  the  exio-ency 
of  the  moment,  an.d  exerted  himself  to  the  utmost.  I^oxes, 
bai'rels,  eau-s,  etc.,  were  thrown  ov(n-  the  side  with  (extraor- 
dinary rapidity.  2^Ien  ])ei'formed  <iigantic  feats  of  strength, 
tos-ing  with  aivparc^nt  ease,  in  the  excitcnu^nt  of  the  moment, 
boxes  wh.ich  at  otli(>r  times  tliey  would  not  have  essayed  to 
lift.  Foi'ward,  coal  and  more  substantial  ])i'o\-isions  and 
bags  of  clothing  were  thrown  overboard  ;  abaft,  the  lighter 
boxes  of  canned  meats  and  tobacco,  with  all  the  musk-ox 
skins  au-d  fresh  seal-meat,  were  transported  to  and  fro.  The 
cabin  was  emirely  emi)tied,  beds  and  bedding,  clothes  and 
even  ornaments,  were  carried  out.  Messrs.  Bryan  and  Meyer 
])lace(l  u])on  the  fioe  the  Ixjxes  containing  all  their  note-books, 
ol)s(M'vations,  etc.  This  was  done  delibei-ately  and  aft(M' 
nnitual  consultation.  The  Iwjxes  were  too  lai'ge  to  be  carried 
about,  and,  in  the  actual  condition  (jf  things,  the  fioe  ajipeared 
to  be  decidedly  tlie  ])est  ])lace. 

"The  Eskimo  w(jmen  and  children  took  refuge  on  the 
ice,  and  two  boats  were  lowered  and  with  a  scow  placed  on 
the  floe. 

'"Tlie  i^rc'^sure  hi]n  now  ])ec(^mes(.)  great  tliat  the  great  Hoc 
it-elf  had  cracked  in  <eve)-al  ])laces.  and  the  \'essel  was  grad- 
ually' bn-aking  its  edge  and  beai'ing  down  tlie  ])ieces.  [Many 
articles  had  been  thrown  in  a  lica])  near  the  slii]),  and  it  was 
luinid  tiiat  >or,ie  of  tlie  lowei'  tliiiiu'.-  in  the  i)ilc  were  dro]")ping 
tiirougli  bf-iwecn  the  ve--el  and  the  ice.  It  was  aho  s(>en  that 
sjiould  the  .-hi])  be  cut  tliJ'ough  and  -ink,  many,  if  not  all  tlie.-e 
article^,  would  sink  with  her.  A  call  wiis  tlu^rcfore  made  for 
tl;e>e  men  to  carr\'  the-C'  iU'tides  to  a  -afer  place  on  tli{^  floe. 
Tliere  w;i-  no  >;»'ci;il  di'-luiiation  for  lliat  duty  ;  but  ('aptain 
Tyson,  taking  .-e\-eral  ])erson-  witli  him,  at  once  enl(a'<'d  on  it. 


2t'>0  THE   CHEAT    WHITE   yoUTH 

After  lal)()riii<r  about  one  hour  and  a  lialf,  the  decks  were 
cleared  and  the  men  on  hoard  shi])  liad  finished  their  work. 
At  !»  :  oi)  P.M.,  ])}"  .-onic  clian,ii'c  in  the  ice,  tlic  >tai'hoard  side 
was  a.u'ain  clear  ;  the  \'essel  was  free  from  pres.-ure,  and  the 
cracks  in  the  floc'  hn'ii-an  to  open. 

"  rnfortunately,  two  of  tliese  cracks  ran  throuu'h  the  places 
where  the  >tern  anchors  had  Ijeen  planted,  lireakiiiji  their 
hold.  The  wind,  still  strong,  now  drove  the  A"e.-sel  from  the 
floe,  and,  the  anchors  dra.uiiing  inid(-r  the  strain,  >he  s\\'ung 
r(^unil  to  the  forward  hawser.  The  latter  sli})i)ed.  and  the 
ve--~el  was  carried  ra])idl\'  a.way  from  the  ice.  The  niuht  was 
black  and  stormy,  and  in  a  few  mon:ients  tlie  floe  and  its  pi-e- 
cious  freight  could  no  hjnger  l)e  s(H'n  througli  the  drifting  snow. 
Pjefore  the  se]:)arati()n.  it  had  keen  noticed  that  the  flof^  \\'as 
nnich  l)rokeiL  on  its  edge  ;  tliat  the  ])ro\'i<ions  and  >tores  wi-re 
.-epar:!led  fi'om  each  othc'r  by  rar>i<lly  ^\'idening  cracks  :  that 
the  men  al>o  were  on  diflVrent  ]")iece>  of  ice  :  that  active 
efforts  \\-e]-e  being  nuule  to  laimch  bcxits  in  ordf^r  to  bring  the 
scattereil  ])e()ple  together.  Several  men  were  seen  rushing 
toward  the  ~lii})  as  she  wa<  leaving,  but  thc^y  failed  to  reach 
her.  I'he  \-()ice  of  the  steward.  .John  Ilerron.  wa-  heard  call- 
inu' (.)Ut.  ■  ( '.()(_ul-by.  Pnlaris  !' 

"  Xineieen  ])er>()ns  were  thus  separated  from  the  >hip.  in- 
cluding eiiiht  ]-i>kimos  and  the  baby  of  Hans  and  Hannah 
"-foui'teeu  men  remained  onboard  —  '  This  r('nmaii1  of  a 
ci'ew,  -o  ,-uddeiily  reilnced,  gazed  on  each  other  for  a  few  mo- 
iueiit-  ill  -ileiice—  wIk'W  'he  order  wa-  ti'h'en  to  >tation  the 
lo(.k(»uI-  :     the  ilutie-  of  the  .-Jiij)  were  I'e-umeil." 

"A  few  moment-  after  t  he  .-e])ai'at  ion.  a  fireman  \\iio  was 
be!()W  nctiinii-  U])  >team  repoi'ted  that  the  ve— ej  AVa-  leaking 
b;ell\'.  [  pon  evaniiiiation  it  wa-  found  that  the  water  was 
poni'lii^-  in  -M  ra])idly  iliat   il   wa<  feared  thai   the  iiiv.-  would 

bi'   ;il'.!    oUl    befoi'e   >le;im    C()illd   be   rai-e:!     1o   Wol'lv     l!!i>    ])Um]i,-. 

"  All  li.ind-  were  immeiliateh'    orilei'ed    to    the    laru'e    iler-k 


THE   SKPAHAriON   OF  TILE   CREW  261 

puin])s,  uiid  a  f(>\v  ]);uls  of  hot  wator  started  the  four  ])Uiii]).s. 
The  ca])taiii  called  out,  'Work  for  your  lives,  boys,'  and  the 
crcnv  set  to  \voi'k  with  a  will.  In  .s]:)ite  of  their  utmost  el'forts, 
the  leak  still  <i,aine(l  upon  tlu^ni.  The  en,u;ineers  and  firemen 
were  ur^ed  to  tlieir  utmost.  Everythinji;  of  a  combustible 
charat't(>r,  includin^u;  seal  blul)ber,  was  thrown  u})on  tlu^  fire, 
and  at  the  (>nd  of  an  hour  and  ten  minutes  of  the  severest 
labor,  the  steam  pumps  were  at  last  in  working  order.  Xor  was 
this  a  moment  too  soon,  for  at  the  moment  the  pumps  began 
to  work,  the  water  Avas  lapping  over  the  floor  of  the  fire-room.'' 

('ai)tain  Buddington  awaited  a  favoura1)le  o]:ip()rtunity  to 
Ix^ach  X\\Q  Pohtrls,  and  this  was  ac('om]:)lished  a  few  da}'s  later 
near  Life-l^oat  Cove,  wh(>re  a  comfortable  house  was  built 
of  the  vessel  for  the  winter. 

Some  Eskimos  rcmdered  them  considerable  assistance,  and 
received  suital)lc  gifts  in  return. 

''W(>  have  taken  stock  of  our  ammunition,"  writ(^s  Cap- 
tain Buddington  in  his  journal,  "and  find  that  we  can  avail 
ourselves  of  about  eight  jiounds  of  ])ow(ler,  which  some  of  the 
men  had  stored  away  in  their  cliests  and  ])owder-flasks. 
This  is  all  we  have  on  board,  the  powder-c;m  having  Ijeen  also 
put  off  on  the  ice  <luring  the  fearful  night  of  tlu^  loth  ;  also  all 
our  Sharj)'s  cartridges,  except  some  o])en  (loose)  ones  which 
were  found  amongst  the  men's  tilings.  One  ])ox  of  musket- 
cartridgc^s  we  have,  and  plenty  of  shot  and  lead  ;  also  se\-eral 
shot  guns.  In  fact,  we  are  not  altogether  as  bad  off  as  we  fii-st 
su])i)()sed.  and  the  only  thing  that  we  are  short  of  is  clothing. 
This,  if  we  cannot  get  any  gamf\  we  may  feel  considei'ably 
before  spring  comes  on." 

Th(>  Eskimos  from  Etah  ]nad(>  frequent  visits,  l)ut  could  give 
them  !U)  infornuition  of  the  lost  members  of  the  ])ai't>'.  The 
general  oi)inioii  with  Ca])tain  l-)uddington  and  his  men  w;is 
that  Tyson  had  been  abl(>  to  (>ifect  a  huiding  with  \\\<  num, 
somewhere  to  the  south,  and  that  he  would  ])robably  use  his 


2*i2  THE   (I HEAT    WHITE  MORTU 

(logs,  .sleds,  and  boats  to  travel  up  the  coast  and  rejoin  the 
main  party. 

In  tii(>  si)i"ing  of  1873  two  boats  were  carefully  constructed 
from  the  material  of  the  Polar i.s,  and  tiu^  })arty  made  prepara- 
tions to  r(^ach  rpernavik.  On  June  3,  the  boats,  having 
b(H^n  freightcnl  and  manned,  got  unika-  way,  and  aftc>r  an  excit- 
ing journcn'^  of  two  hundrcMl  miles  were;  })icked  up  near  Ca])e 
York  by  the  Scotcli  whaler  liareii.scraiy. 

One  of  the  boats  us(m1  on  this  retreat  was  brought  back  to 
civilization  and  i)resented  to  the  Smitlisonian  Institution  at 
Washington.  It  was  exhibited  at  the  International  I^xhi- 
bition,  L'hila(l(4})}iia,  Alay  10,  187G,  by  the  side  of  Kan(>'s  boat 
Fdi.th,  and  foi'med  part  of  the  Arctic  (\)!l(H'tion  furnisluHl  for 
the  ('(MitcMuiial  ])y  the  I'uited  Statics  Naval  Observatoiy. 

To  retui'ii  to  the  iiinc^teen  souls  adrift  on  the  ic(^-floe  ;  of 
the  moment  of  ])arting  from  the  Polaris,  ('■dpiain  Tyson 
writes  :  — 

"The  ic(^  exploded  and  broke  in  many  ])laces,  and  tlu^  shi]) 
broke;  away  in  tlu^  darkness,  and  we  lost  sight  of  her  in  a 

moment. 

"(ione! 

But  an  Icf^-bound  horror 
Se(>med  to  cling  to  air. 

''It  was  snowing  at  the  tim(>  also  ;  it  was  a  tei-ribl(>  night. 
On  the  tr)th  of  October  it  ma\'  be  said  that  the  Arctic  night 
commences;  ])ul  in  addition  to  tliis  the  wind  wns  blowing 
strong  fi'om  1h.'^  s()u(h-e;i>t  :  it  was  snowing  and  di'ifting,  and 
was  fcarfiillv  dark  :  and  tlie  wind  was  (>xce(Mlingly  luniv}'. 
and  so  b;id  \\':is  I  lie  snow  nnd  sleet  thnt  one  could  not  e\-('n  look 
to  till*  windwnrd.  W'e  did  not  ]<now  who  wns  on  the  ice  or 
who  WIS  on  lli(>  shi))  :  but  I  knew  som(>  of  the  children  were 
on.  the  ice,  becnuse  almost  the  last  thing  )  had  jiulled  away 
from  the  crushing  heel  of  th(>  ship  wt^rc  <(m\o  musk-ox  sicins  : 
the}'  were  King  across  a  wide  crack  in  the  ice,  and  as  I  pulled 


THE   IIAIIDSIIIP    OF   THE   CHEW  263 

thorn  toward  me  to  save  them,  I  saw  that  there  were  two  or 
three  of  Hans'  chil(h-eii  roUed  up  in  one  of  the  skins  ;  a  shght 
mention  of  the  iee,  and  in  a  moment  more  they  would  either 
have  })een  in  the  water  and  drowned  in  the  darkness,  or 
crushed  between  th(?  iee. 

"It  was  nearly  ten  o'clock  when  the  shi])  l)roke  away,  and 
we  had  becm  at  work  since  six  ;  the  time  seemcHl  long,  for 
we  were  ^\•()rking  all  the  time.  Hannah  was  working,  but  I 
did  not  s(>e  Joe  or  Hans.  We  worked  till  we  could  scarcely 
stand.  Tlun'  were  throwing  things  constantly  over  to  us 
till  the  vessel  ])art(Hl. 

■'"Scjme  of  the  men  W(^re  on  small  pieces  of  ice.  I  took  the 
'little  donkey'  —  a  small  scow  —  and  went  for  tliem  ;  but 
the  scow  was  ahnost  instantly  swamped  ;  then  I  slujved  off 
one  of  the  whale-boats,  and  to(jk  off  what  men  I.  could  see, 
and  some  of  the  men  took  the  other  boat  and  helped  their 
comixmions,  so  that  we  \ver(>  all  on  firm  ice  at  last. 

'■\\'e  did  not  dare  to  move  about  much  after  that,  for  wc 
c(juld  not  see  th(^  size  of  the  ice  we  were  on,  on  account  of  th(> 
stoi'm  and  darkness.  All  the  rest  but  myself,  the  men,  women 
and  children,  s(jught  what  slieltcr  they  could  fi'om  the  storm 
by  \vra])})ing  theniM'h'cs  in  the  mu>k-(j.\  sl^ins,  and  so  laid  down 
to  rest.     I  alone  walked  the  floe  all  night." 

Tlie  following  morning  an  invent (jry  was  taken  of  the 
stores  on  th''  floe,  and  th(>>' were  found  to  be  :  foui'teen  cans  of 
])('nnnican,  eleven  and  a  half  bag-^  of  i)read,  one  can  of  (lrie(l 
a])] )!('-,  and  fcjurtccn  hams.  "  If  the  shi]Mlid  not  come  for  us," 
writ(>s  Tyson,  "wc  might  liave  to  ,-uj)poi't  oui'selves  all  winter, 
or  die  of  si  ;u"\'ation.      Fortunately,   wc  had  the  boats." 

('a])tain  T\'s(.>n  made  an  effoi't  to  reach  l.ittli^  Island,  in 
order  to  s(>cur('  the  assistance  of  tlu'  f>]<imos  living  in  the 
nciu-hbourliood  in  ]:)ro(an'ing  food  aufl  -belter  for  his  ])arty 
duj'iiiu'  the  winter.  This  he  was  un;i.ble  to  accom])li<h.  and 
SDoii  aftei'  the  Pohiri.-i  was  seen  rounding  a  i)(.)int.     Signals 


2G4  THE   GREAT    WHITE  SOUTH 

were  mack'  by  lioistin<>;  tho  colours  and  shoAviiig  an  India-rul)l)(T 
clolh,  but  ncitluT  the  signals  nor  the  men  were  seen  by  the 
/•'e/a/'/.v. 

Another  futile  attempt  was  made  to  attract  the  attention 
of  those  on  the  ship,  and  Ca|)tain  Tyson  endeavoured  to  launch 
the  boats  and  reach  her,  Ijut  without  success.  Gales  now 
forced  the  floe  out  of  sight  of  the  ship,  and  the  forlorn  men  set 
to  work  to  make  the  best  of  a  desperate  situation. 

By  lat(>  Xovember,  the  effects  of  ex])osure  and  want  of 
food  began  to  show  themselves  ;  some  of  the  men  trembled 
when  they  tried  to  walk  ;  the  children  often  cricnl  with  hunger, 
although  all  was  given  to  them  that  could  i)Ossibly  be  s})ared. 
The  seals  brought  in  were  received  with  gratitude  ;  the  in- 
valuable succ(^ss  of  Joe  and  Hans  was  fully  ai^preciated ; 
without  them,  the  chances  of  life  would  have  \)vvi\  very  much 
diminished.  So  keen  had  the  ap])etites  of  the  party  ])ec()me 
that  the  seal-meat  was  eaten  uncookcnl  with  the  skin  and 
hair  on. 

December  2.'),  Captain  Tyson  records:  — 

"Our  Christmas  dinnc^r  was  gorgeous.  W(^  had  each  a 
small  ])i(H'e  of  froz(-n  ham,  tw(j  whole  biscuits  of  hard  bread, 
a  few  mouthfuls  of  dricnl  a])])les,  and  also  a  few  swallows  of 
seal's  blood  !  The  last  of  tlie  ham,  the  last  of  the  ai)]jles, 
and  tlie  last  of  our  present  su])])l\'  of  seal's  blood  !  So  ends 
our  ( 'hi'istmas  f(>ast  ! '' 

''Xew  A'ear's  diimer.  I  have  dined  to-day  on  about  two 
feet  of //Vfir//  itdrailx  and  a  little  blublx'r  ;  and  I  only  wish 
^\'e  had  p!cnt_\'  e\-en  of  that,  but  we  lia\"e  not." 

On  .laiiuar\'  2.'),  bST^i,  Captain  Tyson  makes  the  following 
ob<(>r\'ation  :  - 

"I  ^\•as  thinking  tlic  other  evening  how  st  I'ange  it  would 
sound  to  heal'  a  goo<l  lieaftx' laugh  ;  but  1  think  there  iie\-er  was 
a  party  -o  (lest  it  ut  e  of  e\'ery  eleinent  of  ineri'iinenl  a>tliis.  I 
cannot  remember  ever  ha\'in!i'  seen  a  smile  on  the  countenanci> 


THE  JfAnDSllII'    OF   THE   CREW  26.") 

of  any  on(>  on  this  floe,  except  when  Ilerron  came  out  of  his 
hut  and  saw  the  sun  shining  for  the  first  time." 

Tlie  niontlis  of  February  and  Alarcli  passed  (Usnially  enough, 
witli  varying  fortune  with  the  hunters.  Toward  the  end  of 
i\ larch,  th(>  conchtion  of  the  party  was  growing  rapidly  woi's(;. 
On  Alarcli  3,  Joe  shot  a  monster  oogjook  —  a  large  kind  of 
seal. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  great  deliverance  to  those  who  had 
been  rcnluced  to  one  meal  of  a  few  ounces  a  day. 

''Hannah  had  but  two  small  pieces  of  blubl)er  k^ft,"  con- 
tinues Captain  Tyson,  ''enough  for  the  lamp  for  two  days; 
the  men  had  but  little,  and  Hans  had  only  enough  for  one  day 
—  and  now,  just  on  the  verge  of  absolute  destitution,  comes 
along  this  monstrous  oogjook,  the  only  one  of  the  seal  species 
seini  to-day ;  and  the  fellow,  I  have  no  doul^t,  weighs  six  or 
s(^ven  himdred  poimds,  and  will  fm'nish,  I  should  think,  thirty 
gallons  of  oil.     Truly  we  are  rich  indeed  !" 

"April  1st.  We  have  been  the  'fools  of  fortune'  now  for 
five  months  and  a  half." 

On  this  da}'  it  was  found  necessary  to  abandon  the  floe, 
which  had  now  become  wasted  to  such  an  extent  that  it  was 
no  long(^r  safe  ;  at  8  a.m.,  therefore,  th(>  ])arty  took  to 
their  boat.  This  boat,  intended  to  carry  six  or  eight  men,  was 
crowded  with  twelve  men,  two  women,  and  five  children,  with 
t!io  lent  and  skins  and  som(>  jjrovisions.  Ther(>  Avas  so  littl(~ 
I'oom  that  it  was  difficult  to  handle^  the  oars  and  j'okc-ropes. 
After  making  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  to  the  south  and  west  in 
th(>  ])a('k,  a  landing  was  cffc^ctcHl,  th(>  tent  i)itch(Ml  with  the  in- 
tention of  remaining  all  night.  For  tlu^  luwt  twentjMnght 
days  !he  party  advanced  to  the  sotitli  by  boat,  cam])ing  U]ion 
the  ice  at  night,  undiM'going  tlie  most  pei'ilous  hardships  from 
the  uphea^■als  of  the  ice,  throtigh  gales  and  stoi'ms. 

At  I  :;•!()  I'.M.  of  A])ril  28,  a  steamer  hove  in  sight,  right 
ahead,  and  at  one  time  appeared  to  be  bearing  down  upon  the 


liC)!')  THE   GREAT    WHITE   XORTU 

l.)oat.  The  American  colours  were  hoisted,  and  the  boat  pulled 
for  her.  Sh(>  was  recognized  as  a  sealer  returning  southwest, 
and  a])))ai'ently  working  through  th(>  ice.  For  a  few  moments 
the  lu^arts  of  the  shi|)Wi'(M'ked  ])arty  wove  thrilled  with  joy, 
but  th(>  steamer  failed  to  see  tliem,  and  night  coming  on,  she 
soon  disa])|)eared.  That  night  the  boat  was  again  hauled 
upon  the  ice  and  fires  lighted  to  attract  the  att(^ntion  of  passing 
vessels. 

At  daylight,  a  st(>amer  was  s(H'n  (-iglit  miles  off.  The 
boat  was  launched  and  headcnl  for  the  ship,  —  but  after  fwo 
hours'  pulling,  she  was  so  beset  by  ice  that  she  could  make; 
no  headway.  Tlu^  ])arty  landed  on  a  small  ])iece  of  ice, 
hoistinl  their  colours,  mounte(l  t  he  higlu^st  ])oint  of  the  floe,  col- 
lect ed  all  the  rifles  and  ])istols,  and  hred  tluMU  together  to  at- 
tract att(Mition.  After  threc^  I'ounds,  the  steamer  fir(>d  thre(^ 
shots,  and,  changing  her  course,  ht^adc^l  toward  the  fi()(>. 
'Jdie  i)art\'  ga\'e  a  shout  of  delight,  but  sooii  after  the  steanuT 
again  changed  her  coui's(\  and  st(>amed  away. 

"Again  in  the  morning  of  the  oOth,  when  the  fog  0])(Mied, 
a  steamer  was  s(H'n  close  to  the  floe  ;  the  guns  were  iii'ed,  the 
coloi's  w(M'e  set  on  the  boat's  mast,  and  loud  shouts  ^ycn^ 
uttered.  Hans  sh()\'ed  off  in  his  ka}'ak,  of  his  own  accord, 
to  intei'cept  her,  if  ])()ssible  :  the  morning  was  h)ggy,  but  lh(> 
steamer's  head  soon  (unied  towards  tluMU  and  in  a  U'W 
monients,   she  was  alongside  of  the  floe." 

Th(>  llii'i'c  cheers  gi\-en  by  the  shipwi'ccked  peoph^  were 
i'eturn(Ml  by  a  hundred  ukmi  on  d(M'k  and  aloft,  'i'he  \-essel 
pro\'e(l  !()  he  the  barkentine  7'/V/r^^■.^■.  sealer,  ('ai)tain 
liai'tlett,  of  ( '()nce|)t  ion  l)a\',  Newfoundland.  Iler  small  seal 
boats  wei'e  ycry  soon  in  the  water:  but  the  shipwrecked 
pai'ty  did  not  wait  h>r  them.  Tliey  t  hi'ew  e\-<M'yt  hing  out  of 
their  own  boat,  lamiched  her,  and  in  a  few  moments  were  on 
l)(i;ird  the  Tinr'ss,  whci'e  they  became  objects  of  extreiue 
eui'i(»,-lt  \\  as  well  ;is  of  t  he  iiio^l   de\-oted  at  tent  ion.      \\  hen  t  he 


THE    llKsCfE  AM)   IIKTIRN    TO    UNITED    STATES      2()7 

tinu^  (luring  whicli  th(\y  liad  h(>{ni  on  th(>  ice  \v;is  nuMitioncMl, 
tli('\'  wen'  r(\<;';u'(l(Ml  with  ;i.st(jnisluii(nit,  and  warmly  congratu- 
latcil  upon  tJKMi'  niiraculous  cs('a])e.  They  wen^  picked  up 
in  latitude  ■').\°  o.V  X.,  off  Grady  Harbor,  Labrador. 

Thus  ended  one  of  the  most  remarkable  esea])es  on  r(>cord. 
For  fiv(>  months  the  little  band  of  shipwreckcMl  men  and  women 
had  di'ifted  at  the  mercy  of  the  Arctic  ice-pack,  a  distance  of 
1300  inil(>s. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

Captain  Tliomas  Lon<i.  —  Discovery  of  Wrangell  Land. — Captain 
Carlson  and  Captain  Paliiscf  sail  across  the  ►"^ca  of  Kara. — 
Captain  Johannsen  circunniavigates  Xova  Zenibla.  —  First  Ger- 
man expedition.  — Second  German  expedition.  —  (icnnania.  Cap- 
tain Koldewey  connnanding. —  Hdusa,  Captain  llegemann.  —  De- 
parture from  Bremen.  —  Crossing  the  Arctic  Circle. — Island  of 
Jan  IMayen. — The  ice  line.  —  Separation  from  the  Hansa. — 
Adrift  on  the  ice-floe. — AVinter.  —  Final  rescue. — (itrinania 
beset. — Winter.  —  Sledging  ])arties.  —  Lieutenant  Payer's  re- 
markable journey.  —  77^  V  north  latitude.  —  Return  of  the  Gcr- 
vicinla. 

Othkk  ini])ortant  di.scovorios  followed  the  journcA-s  of 
Dr.  Hayes  and  Ca])tain  Hall,  including-  that  of  Ca])tain 
Thomas  Long,  an  American  whaler,  who  in  lsb7  discoveredi 
''a  mountainou.s  country  of  considerable  extent  in  the  Polar 
Ocean,  l)e\'(jnd  Behring  Strait,"'  su])])osed  at  that  time  to 
he  th(^  western  ])r(dongation  of  Plovf^r  Island. 

The  same  year  Ga])tain  Carlson  and  Ca])tain  Palliser 
sailed  aero>s  the  genei'ally  inacce>sibl(>  Sea  of  Kara  to  th(^ 
mouths  of  the  Obi,  —  and  Ca]")tain  Johannsen  succee(led 
in  circumna\ugating  the  whole  archi])elago  (jf  Xo\'a  Zembla. 
In  bSliS  the  hrst  Ocrnian  noi'th  ])(Jar  exi)editi(ni  was  fittetl 
(lUt  throuu'h  the  exertions  of  the  scientist  Dr.  A.  I'eh'rman 
of  (iotha.  d"he  yacht  (irrc/iln/irl,  commanded  b\'  Gaptain 
Kolilewey,  saileil  to  S))it zbergen.  reaching  Sp  O.V  \.  off  the 
iiort  !i  coa.-t.  and,  ])a^-iiia  down  IIcnlo])en  St  rait,  sightei  1  AAiche 
Land,  returning  home  the  fall  of  the  same  year. 

In  IMIII  and  1*^71).  the  Cei'mans  mad(-  a  more  siicce.-sful 
attempt   to  ciili'i'  the  li>l>  of  Arctic  di.-covery  by  exploring  a 

2(is 


CAPTAIX    THOMAS   LONG  269 

(•()nsi(l('rul)le  part  of  tlio  previously  unvisited  coast  of  I'^ast 
( li'ccnlaiul.  The  ship  (rertnania  was  ciioscn  for  tliis  purpose, 
l)ciii<>;  expressly  adapted  for  ice  navi<i;ation  ;  the  Hanm  of 
neai'ly  the  same  size  was  t(j  accompany  lier.  Captain  Karl 
Kcjldewey  and  ( 'ai)tain  Fr.  Hegemann  were  first  and  second  in 
command  res])ectively. 

'"The  departure  of  the  expedition  from  Bremerhaven," 
writes  Captain  Koldewey,  "took  place  on  the  loth  of  June, 
LSOl),  in  the  presence  of  his  Majesty,  the  King  of  Prussia, 
whose  warm  interest  in  this  great  national  undertaking  showed 
itself  in  this  solemn  lujur  in  a  manner  never  to  be  forgotten. 
Amongst  the  numerous  gentlemen  in  attendance  on  his  ^laj- 
esty  werehisRoyal  Highness,  the  Crand  Dukeof  Mecklenburg 
Schwerin,  Count  Bismarck,  the  ^Minister  of  War  and  Marine, 
von  Ivoon.  General  von  Moltke,  and  Mce-Admiral  Jac-kman. 
The  ships  lay  at  tlie  entrance  of  the  new  harboiu' just  outsidethe 
sluice.  Th(d-;ing,  having  been  introduced  to  the  scientific  gentle- 
men and  the  commander  of  tlie  expedition,  and  having  greeted 
them  with  a  heart}'  shake  of  the  hand,  tlie  Pr(\<ident  of  the 
l^remen  Conmhtte(»,  Ilerr  A.  G.  Mosle,  reriuested  liis  Majesty's 
])ei'mission  to  s])(^idv  a  few  parting  words  ;  and  in  an  earnest 
and  impi'e>sive  manner  tlic  speaker  I'eferred  to  tlie  greatness 
and  im|)ortance  of  the  object,  the  self-denial,  difficultic^s,  and 
dangei's  whicli  lay  before  them,  but  which  th(-y  all  willingly 
l)ra\'c(l  for  the  lionour  of  their  nati\'e  land,  for  the  honour  of 
tlie  ( iennan  na\"y.  and  of  ( lerman  science." 

Jul}"  1  found  the  ex])fMlition  in  (ib'  north  latitude, 
pa^-iiig  the  entrance  Ix'tween  Xorwa}'  and  tlu^  Slietland 
I-I1-.  "AMth  that  the  German  Oce;ui  wa>  left  l)ehind  and  the 
(ipeii  se;i  reached,  which  already  made  itself  felt  b\"  the  peculiar 
•Atlantic  swell. ■■" 

()ii  th(^  oth  of  Jul\'.  at  fifty  mimites  past  elev(Mi.  tli(^  Crr- 
ii/nnin  ])assed  the  Arctic  Circle,  iKnirly  under  the  meridian  of 
(  ireiiiwicli. 


■^7(1 


THE   CHEAT    WHITE  SORT  11 


" \  \"i()lfnt  wind  was  l)l()wiii<>'."  writos  C'aptaiu  Koldcwcy, 
"and  with  a  >|)('cd  (if  nine  knot.-  we  entered  the  Arctic  Ocean, 
which  wa>  to  be  our  (juart ers  for  a  whcjh'  year.  Tlie  Ibui^a 
was  .-onie  miles  in  advance  of  us,  and  was  the  first  to  unfurl 
the  Xortli  (iennan  fhiji  :  at  the  >anie  time  fii'in^' (.)ne  <iun.  Wo 
foHoweiL  ( 'onformahly  to  the  custom,  as  on  cro.-<int;'  lh(> 
ecjuator,  Xe])lune  came  on  hoai'd  to  welcome  us,  and  wish  us 
succe»  on  our  voyau'c  ;  of  course  not  witliout  all  those  who 
hail  not  >'et  ci'osseil  the  Arctic  ( 'ircl(>  ha\'iiiU'  to  underji'o  the 
rather  rou<ih  shavinii,'  and  chi'istenina;  customary  on  such 
occa-ions.  Tlie  ceremony  closed  (as  is  usual  on  such  occa>ions) 
with  a  .u'ood  ulass  of  \\'ine,  to  wash  away  the  evil  effects  of  tlu^ 
cold  water." 

On  board  the  Ihnisa  the  proceedin.u'  was  carrietl  ouf  ntuch 
more  scru])ulou>ly.  Describini;-  the  frolic,  Dr.  Laul)e  writes 
thu--  :  — 

'A\'e  entered  into  the  s])irit  of  the  fun  willingly,  knowing; 
that  our  >ailoi's  wwv  decent  fellow-,  and  would  not  carry  things 
too  fai'.  e\-en  liad  we  not  entered  on  the  -lijj)'s  books  with 
them  in  Breman,  and  become  .<ea!nen.  Oui'  cai'i'entei'  went 
about  the  v.'hole  da\'  with  a  sly,  lau'ihinu'  face,  and  towards 
(•\'enin2:  had  f|uite  lf)<t  his  u-ual  chatline-s.  ^\'e  our.-eh'es 
kept  ill  the  cabin.  >o  a<  not  to  witne>s  the  ])reparal  ions.  At 
midniuht  we  were  called  on  deck.  A  u'un  was  fired,  and  a-  its 
t  liundei-  ( Ijcil  awa\'.  we  lu-ard  the  \\-fll-f:nowii  cry.  '  >}iip  ahoy  !' 
ddu'ee  wonderful  fl'IiU'es  climbeil  o\-er  the  bow-jjrit  :  \e|)time 
fir-t,  in  an  ]A-kim<i'-  dn''--.  with  a  u'reat  A\'hite  cnttdn  be;ird, 
a  -e\-(-]|-[)rMmivd  dolphin  hai'jioon  for  a  trldeiit  in  one  hand, 
and  a  -pi-akin'j,-i  rumpft  in  the  oi  hei\  A  tai'paulin  wa-  -pi'ea;! 
on  the  pU;irtcr-deek.  ;iii(l  ;i  -tool  placeil  Upon  it.  h  looki'd 
like    ;i    iudu'-*-    bi'iieh.       Ilei'e   i';ifh    of    U-    Wa  -    -eated    with    eyes 

bomid.  wiiih'  th''  ma-kfil  tellowei'-  of  tin'  norihir-n  liuler 
wen;  tlii'iiimJ!  t!:"  ei;-tMtii;)r\'  proci'i'diu'i-.  I  w;i-  -oapetl  and 
sha\'i'd  :    liiid    \ept  mif  wa-  nil  1-1    f.-e.'oral  ile    tome:    hi'   know-^ 


SECOND  (ujumax  expedition  '■111 

what  .ii;{)()(l  cigars  arc,  antl  lias  gi'^'iit  r(\s])C('t  for  those  to  whom 
they  b(>long.  Th(Mi  eaine  the  christ(>nin<i;,  which  in  this  cas(i 
was  not  ai)])hed  to  the  head  (as  is  usual)  but  to  tlu^  thi'oat  and 
stomach.  Neptime  put  some  ({uestions  to  me  through  his 
siieakin<;--trum])(^t,  desiring  me  to  answer.  I  saw  his  object, 
answered  with  a  short  'Yes'  and  thc^n  closed  my  lips.  The 
mischievous  waterfall  rattled  over  me,  causing  universal 
merriment.  T\iox  then  took  the  bandag(>  from  my  eyes, 
that  I  might  see  my  handsome  face  in  the  glass  ;  but  instead  of 
a  looking  glass,  it  was  the  combing  of  the  AVood(ui  hatchway, 
which  with  grf.nit  gravity  was  lu^d  before;  my  face  by  the  bar- 
ber's assistant.  I  was  no^v'  absolvcnl,  and  could  laugh  with 
tlu^  others,  whilst  seeing  my  conu'ad(^s  obliged  to  go  through 
the  sam(^  course^  onc^  after  \\\q  otluM-." 

By  the  9th  of  July,  tlie  ex])(Mlition  came  in  sight  of  tiu^ 
island  of  Jan  Alayen.  Tlie  midnight:  hours  had  now  beconu^ 
])erceptibly  lighten-;  even  in  the  cabin  a  lamp  was  no  longxn- 
needed,  and  at  twelve  o'clock  at  nigiit  it  was  ])ossible  to  read 
and  write  without  difficulty.  Fog  and  snow  liad  alrcnidy 
l)egun  tlu'ir  rule  of  terror,  and  Cai)tain  Koldewey  records  three 
hun(lr(>d  and  sixty-eight  hotu's  of  fog  from  the  10th  of  July 
to  the  1st  of  August. 

Tlu^  island  of  Jan  Alayen  lies  in  th(>  middh^  of  tlu^  wide, 
(1(H>])  sea  b(Hwe(ni  Norway  and  (Ireemland,  Ic(>land  and  Spitz- 
b(M'g(Mi  ;  and  is  distant  al)()ut  sixty  g(^()grai)liical  miles  from 
the  coast  of  ("u'CHmland.  It  was  discoviM'CMl  and  named  after 
a  Dulchnum  who  visitiMl  it  in  tlu^  yc^ar  Kill.  It  is  nine  miles 
in  length  and  one  mile  in  I)i'(>a(lth,  I'ocky  and  mountainous, 
with  only  two  s])ots  of  flat  b(>ac!i  s\iilabk'  for  landing-placets. 
Th(^  nortlu^asi  ])art  rises  to  a  lu^ight  of  six  thousand  (nglit 
hundred  sixly-thi-cn^  feet,  in.  the  lofty  ])(H'r(Mib(M-g,  wliich  has  a 
ku'gc  ci'at(M-,  111  the  ye^ai'  17;)2,  Bm-gomasteM'  AndeM'son,  of 
IIaml)urg,  r(^])ort(>d  a  dfH'ided  eruption  from  a  small  sitU^ 
crater,  and  in  1818,  Scoresby  and  another  ca])tain  saw  great 


Zrl  TlIK   (HIE AT    WHITE  NOllTU 

pillars  of  smoke  rising  from  the  same  place.  Of  this  wonderful 
isolated,  sno\v-co\"ered  jx-ak,  Lord  Dui'ferin,  in  "Letters  fi'oni 
High    Latitudes,"    wrote,  — 

"My  delight  was  of  an  anchorite  catching  a  glimpse  of  the 
seventh  hea\'en." 

Jan  ALiyen  lies  so  near  the  edg(~  of  the  ice-fuLls,  that 
from  1()12  to  1G40  it  afforded  the  English  and  Dutch  whale- 
fishers  a  comfortable  station  for  their  train-oil  ])re]')arati(jn. 
One  ship  is  reportcnl  to  have  brought  home  one  hundred  and 
ninety-six  thousand  gallons  of  oil  in  a  single  }-ear. 

The  ice  line  was  reached  July  b").  "After  a  foggy  day,  a 
light  southerly  breeze  got  U]),  the  sails  hlled.  the  sliip  answc>red 
the  helm  once  more,  and  we  movcnl  in  a  uorth-westerly  course 
])etween  small  floes  and  brashes.  A  i)racti>(Ml  ear  might  now 
ncjtice  a  ])eculiar  distant  roai',  which  sec^med  to  come  nc^arer 
by  degrees.  It  was  the  sea  singing  against  the  still  hidden 
ice. 

"Xeai'er  and  nearer  comes  \\w  rushing  nois(\  E\'ery  man 
is  on  deck  ;  when,  as  with  the  touch  of  a  magic  wand,  the  mist 
di\"ide<,  and  a  few  hundred  \ards  lu'foi'c  us  lies  the  ice,  in  long 
lines  like  a  deep  indenttnl  rocky  coast,  A\-ith  walls  glittei'ing 
blue  in  the  sun,  and  the  foaming  of  the  wa\"es  mcunting  high, 
\\\\\\  the  to])  coN-crecl  with  blinding  white  snow.  The  (\\'<s  of 
all  rested  with  amazemi^nt  on  this  grand  ])auorama  ;  it  was  a 
gloi'iou-  but  sei'ious  mom(-nt.  .-tii'red  as  we  ^\•el■e  Ity  new 
thoughts  and  feelings,  by  liopes  and  doubts,  by  bold  and  far- 
I'eachiiig  expert  at  i(;ii>." 

I  p  to  this  time  the  C'(r//inn id  and  Ilniisa  had  -tood  Avell 
toncilier  with  occasional  se|)aration  in  tlie  fog<,  and  on  the 
ISth  of  July  tlie  oflicei's  of  the  two  ships  exchanged  !io>])ital- 
itie-.  The  next  da\\  thfoimT  a  fatal  nii-iuider-tanding  of 
>iuiiab.  the  Uniisa  -ej)afate(|  from  the  (i(  rnia  nin .  and  they 
ne\-er  met  again. 

On  the  lNiI,  of  .!u]\-,  t!i(.  llniisii  -tood  ill  ~'r  .")<)'  north  lati- 


.Jan-   M  vi  lx   1- 


ADRIFT   ON    THE  K'E  FLOE  273 

tudc  and  10°  ")4'  west  latitu{l(>.  Tlic  dark  rock  coast  of  East 
(Irccidaud  was  visibk'  for  the  first  time  from  Cape  Jjroor  lluys 
to  Cape  James. 

l^y  sailiii,t>;,  towing,  and  warping,  the  Ilan.sd  mack^  slow 
])rogi'ess  throngh  the  ice.  Tlie  cai)tain  and  two  officers  and 
1wo  sailors  made  an  attempt  to  land  on  August  24,  hut  were 
ohlig(Hl  to  return  to  the  ship  without  luudng  accom])lished 
their  mission.  (3n  the  25th  of  August  the  Ilansa  reached 
within  thirty-five  nautical  miles  of  Saljinc^  Island.  T\\v  ship 
was  continually  subjectcxl  to  dangerous  icc^  pressure,  and  often 
f()rc(Hl  southward  b}'  the  drifting  ice-fi(4ds.  B}'  the  0th  of 
September,  she  lay  between  two  promontories  of  a  large  ice- 
field, which  eventually  proved  a  raft  of  deliverance.  ]5y  the 
14th  of  S{>pt(Mnl)er,  she  was  completely  frozen  u\)  in  7o°  25.7' 
north  latitude  and  18°  o9.5'  west  latituck-.  At  tlie  mei'cy  of 
th(>  di'ifting  currents,  th(^  Ilanm  stood  in  imminent  ])eril  of 
total  desti'uction.  ]^et^\'een  October  5  an.d  14  the  drift  had 
carried  the  sliip  seventy-two  nautical  miles  to  the  south- 
southwest.  The  nights  werc^  cold.  som(>times  4°  F.  l)elow 
zero.  The  on!\'  sign  of  animal  life  to  be  seen  were  ravens, 
wh.ich  wer(>  doubtk^ss  wintering  on  the  coast :  once  a  gull  and 
a  falcon  made  the  ship  a  \'isit.  A  se\-ere  storm  from  the 
north-noi'thwest  on  tlu^  19th  brought  disastrous  pressure  upon 
tlie  Ila/isa. 

"Shortly  before  one  o'clock,  th(>  deck  seams  s])rang,  l)ut 
still  she  seemed  tight.  AIig!it\'  bk)cks  of  ice  ))uslied  them- 
se!\'es  undei'  the  bow,  and,  although  they  were  crushed  l)y  it, 
they  forced  the  shi])  u])  no  le-^s  tlian  seventeen  feet.  The 
rising  of  the  ship  was  an  ext  raiM'dinary  and  awful,  yoi  s])k"ndid 
>pcctacle,  of  \\hicfi  the  V\'hole  crew  were  witnesses  from  the 

ice." 

Iir;ili/!ng  thi'  gra\'il\'  of  the  situation,  Captain  Ih^gcMnann 
at  once  oi'dei'e(l  clotliing.  nautical  inst rumeirts,  and  stores 
to  be  removed  fi'om  the  shi])  to  a  -afe  distance.      The  pum])s 


-74  TiiH  (;ih:at  white  noutii 

Wi'vv  put  ill  uclioii  to  fr(!('  hci'  from  water,  hut  to  the  horror 
of  all,  it  was  (li.sc(jver('d  Ix'fore  nuuiy  hour.s  that  the  Hdiisa 
was  (looine(L 

■'('ahuly,  thouf>;h  much  moved,  we  faced   this  hard   fact." 

There  was  not  a  minute's  time  to  lose  ;  whih;  one-half 
of  the  men  staye<l  by  the  pumi)s,  tlie  others  were  husil}'  cm- 
<i'a^c(l  bringing  the  m(jst  necessai'}'  articles  from  tiu.^  vessel 
lo  the  floe.  ( Iraduall}'  the  ship  hlled  with  water,  and  by  eight 
in  the  morning  the  men  who  W(>re  busy  in  the  fore-p(>ak  g(>t- 
ting  out  (ir(;woo(l  came  with  anxious  faces  to  sa}'  that  th(! 
wood  was  alread}'  floaling  below.  At  thi'ce  o'clock  the  water 
in  the  cal)in  had  reached  the  table,  and  all  movable  articles 
were  floating. 

'■Piound  about  the  ship  la}'  a  cliaotic  mass  of  heterogeneous 
articles,  and  grou])s  (jf  feeble  rats  struggling  with  death,  and 
trembling  with  cold." 

On  the  morning  of  the  21st,  a  last  trij)  was  made  to  the; 
Ila/t-sf!  for  fuel  and  her  masts  sacrificed  t(j  the  stress  of  need. 
She  was  then  cut  away  from  the  ice  that  she  might  n(jt  en- 
danger tlie  lives  of  those  on  the   floe  when   she  sank. 

The  shi])Avr(;cked  crew,  in  the  miserable  shelter  of  tlu;  cijal 
house,  settl<'(l  themscl\-es  to  meet  tlie  exigencies  of  their 
frightful  position.  In  the  fai'  distance  Ilalloway  J  jay  and 
(ila-goAv  Island  wei'c  di>tinctl\'  \'i<ible,  liut  nowhere  a  way 
t  lu'ougli  t  he  icy  laltyrinth.  Slowlx',  steadily,  the  ice-held 
di'ifted  to  the  s(jut  h.  I)y  X()\-ember  3  the  Lix'crpool  coast  had 
\)('C]\  [)a->('(|,  and  the  ])ictures(juc  foi'mation  of  the  coa>t 
surroiniding  Seorc^by  Sound  was  di<tincll\'  \'isibl(>. 

'bill'  health  of  the  ])arty  remained  good:  a  monofonous 
rouline  of  dail>'  diitie-  oecupied  officers  aici  men.  The  cap- 
ture of  ;)  w;ilru<  a! id  beai"  ga\'e  a  welcome  supply'  of  fre-ji  meat . 
('hti-lnias  \va-  cheetiuliy  celel)T';tted  b>'  tlie>e  shipwi'ecked 
mariner-  isi  the  coal-lml  on  theii'  r,i-eenland  lloi'.  A  tree 
arti-i  icall;/    manufactured    of    pine   wooel    and    Ijirch    broom 


WIXTER 


OTA 


was  naylydecoratod  Avith  paper  riiip;^  and  candles,  — nor  were 
gifts  wiuiling,  and  finally,  wrote  Dr.  Lauhe  in  liis  day-book  :  — 

"In  (juiet  de\-()tion  tlie  festival  ])assed  by;  the  thouglits 
which  passed  through  our  minds  (they  were  nnich  alike  with 
all)  I  will  not  put  down.  If  this  should  he  the  last  Christmas 
we  were  to  see,  it  was  at  least  l)right  enough.  If,  howe\'er, 
we  were  destined  foi'  a  happy  return  hom(^,  the  next  will  he 
a  brighter  one  ;    may  (iod  grant  it  !" 

The  months  of  January  and  Febmary  wer(^  fraught  with 
many  anxious  hours,  owing  to  the  numerous  and  severe  storms 
which  threateiuMl  destruction  to  the  flo(\  Th(>  hori'ors  of 
such  an  (Wjierience  are  A'ividly  described  as  follows  :  — 

On  the  lltli  of  January,  "At  six  in  the  morning,  Ililde- 
brandt,  who  ha]:)pened  to  have  tlie  watch,  bui'st  in  M'ith  llu; 
alarm,  'All  hands  turn  out.'  An  indc^scribable  tunnilt  was 
heard  without.  AVith  furs  anfl  knapsacks  all  rusluMl  out. 
Rut  the  outf>r  (Mitrance  was  snowed  u})  ;  so  to  gain  the  outside 
(juickly,  we  hrok(^  through  the  snow-roof  of  tlie  front  hall. 
The  tumult  of  the  elements  which  met  us  there  was  Ix^yond 
anx'tliing  we  had  ;dready  ex])erienc(Ml.  Scarcely'  abk^  to  lea\-(^ 
tlu^  s]iot.  we  stood  huddl(Ml  togeth.er  for  ])rotection  fi'om  llu; 
l)ad  weather.  Suddenly  we  lu^ard,  A\'ater  on  the  floe  closer 
by."  The  flo(^  surrounding  us  s])lit  u])  ;  a  hea\-\'  sc^a  ai'o>(\ 
Our  field  began  to  break  on  all  sides.  On  the  spot  between 
our  hous(>  and  the  ])iled-ui)  stor(>  of  wood  which  was  about 
twenty-ti\'e  ]iac(>s  distant,  thei'e  >uddenl\'  o])ene(l  a  huge  ga]). 
Washed  by  tlu^  ])owei'ful  wa\(^s.  it  seeiiKMl  as  if  the  piece 
iu-t  broken  off  was  about  to  fall  u])on  us  :  and  at  th(>  same 
time  we  felt  the  rising  and  falling  of  our  now  greatly  reduce(l 
floe.  All  seemed  U)<\ .  From  our  s])lit-u]')  ice-field  all  tlie 
iirewood  was  drifting  into  the  raging  sea.  And  in  like  man- 
nei-  we  h;id  nearly  lost  oui'  boat  liisinnrcl: :  (>ven  the  whale- 
bo.nt  was  obliged  to  be  brought  foi'  safely  into  the  middle  of 
the  !ioe.     l"h(>  laru'e  bo;u .  beintr  too  hi'av\   lo  handle,  we  wcie 


I'.ti 


TIIK   (iUFAT    WHITE   XORTfr 


ohligcd  to  gi\'('  u])  entircl}'.  All  this  in  a  temperature  of 
—  9;,',  and  a  liea\'}'  >l(jrni,  wa>  an  arduous  piece  of  Avork. 
The  eonnuunity  were  iiivi(le(l  into  two  ])art>.  W'e  bade  each 
other  ,u'(jod-l)y  with  a  farewell  .-hake  of  the  hands,  for  the 
next  moment  we  m:_uht  ,u<)  d(jwn.  Dec})  der~])ondency  luid 
taken  hoM  of  our  .-cientific  friends  :  tlie  crew  were  still  and 
quiet.  Tluis  we  stood  oi'  cowere(l  by  our  boats  tlie  whoh; 
da\',  the  fine  ])ric]<ing  snow  i)enetratin<i'  throu.uh  the  clothes 
to  the  skin.  It  A\-a>  a  mii'acle  that  ju-t  that  part  of  the  fioc 
on  which  we  stood  -liould  fi'om  its  soundne-s  keep  t(.)gether. 
( )ur  floe,  now  onl\"  b"j()  feet  in  diameter,  wa-  the  oo  to  -!0  feet 
miclt'U<  of  the  formerly  exten-i\"e  field  to  which  we  hadi  en- 
tru.-tcd  our  ])reser\'ation.  Toward.-  e\"en!n,u.'  the  ma»e.-  of 
ii'e  became  clo-el\'  ])acked  au'ain.  At  tlie  >ame  time  the  hea\'y 
sea  had  -ub-iilcil  and  iimnediate  daniicr  .-eemed  ])a.-t.  Ee- 
liev(Ml.  Ave  ])art(;ok  of  -omethinu;  in  the  hou.-e  and  lay  down, 
aftei-  .-I'ttinu'  a  ^i'ood  watch.  It  wa-  pa-t  miilni.u'lit.  wlim  v.'e 
were  rou-C'il  fi'om  otu"  >l('ep  by  the  cry  of  teri'f.ir  :  the  voice  of 
the  sailor  on  watcli,  exclaimin,^.  'Turn  out.  w(>  are  driftin,ij; 
on  t(-  a  hiii'li  iceberg  I'  All  ru-hed  to  the  enti'ance  :  drc--e(l 
a-  Ave  alA\'ay>  were  ;  we  had  no  time  to  run  through  the  loug 
>iioAv  j)a-.-age,  but  bur.-t  ii])en  the  i'oi:f.  climbiMl  on  to  the  door 
and  .-o  out.  What  a  -i.iiht  !  f'lo.-"  u])on  u<.  a-  if  hanuliig 
o\'i'r  our  head-.  toAVC'red  a  liuge  iu;i-.<  of  ice.  of  giaiit  ])ro])or- 
tioji-.      'Ii    i-  ])a-t,"  .-aid   the  ca])tain.      A\"a-  it   really  an  icc- 


bft-M-,,,]-  |ji(.  iniraLi'e  of  on'-,  or  the  hiuh 


AVc  could  not 


dfcjtlc  ilic  ([ue-tiom  '  twinn-  to  the  -Avii'i  ne-,- of  thf-  d.rift, 
the  gha-tly  object   lia<!  dii-a])])eared  the  next   moment." 

.\gaiu  o!!  the  cA-eniuu'  of  the  \\]\i  a  friglitful  -torm  I'aged, 
A\iiicll   -el    the   ice  oiic('   more   ill   Ulot  i(  )1L. 

"Ill  t!ie  iuimediate  iieiLibboUrhooil  of  t!:e  hoU-e.  our  i'oe 
biU'-t  :  and  the  lii'i.keu  ire  f!e\\-  hiuh  around  u-.  It  wa-  hiubi 
time  to  bi'iiiLi'  the  boat   li'isinitnl:  and  'he  whale-l  loat  more  into 

the     middl'.'.        Thi-     Ave     (lid:       bm      tl.e\-     AA'ere     fal'     too     heaA-iJA" 


WINTER 


077 


luilcni  to  l)riut;-  further.  On  this  account,  furs,  sacks  of  bread, 
and  clijlliinj:;  wd'c  takt'n  out  and  packed  on  two  sledges,  which 
were,  liowever,  soon  c(.)nipletely  snowed  up.  All  our  lalxjur 
was  rendered  heavier  by  the  storm,  which  nuuk'  it  almost 
impossible  to  bi'eathe.  About  eleven,  we  c>xperienced  a 
sudden  fissure  which  threatened  to  tear  our  house  asunder; 
\\'ith  a  thundering  noise  an  (n-ent  to(.)k  place,  the  conseciuences 
of  which,  in  the  fir>t  moments,  tleranged  all  calculations. 
Ciod  only  kuiAvs  h(jw  it  hap})ened  that,  in  our  flight  into  the 
open,  norie  came  t(j  haVm.  But  there  in  the  most  fearful 
weatlier  w(^  all  stood  roofk^ss  on  the  ice,  waiting  for  daylight, 
which  was  still  t(>n  hours  off.  The  boat  King  ]ViUi(u/i 
la}'  on  tlie  edge  (jf  th(>  floe,  and.  miglit  have  floated  away  at 
any  moment,  h'ortunately  the  fissure  did  not  g(^t  larger. 
A>  it  A\-as  s()m(^A\iiat  (juieter  at  midnight,  most  of  the  men 
crept  into  the  Captain's  boat,  when  the  thickest  sail  we  had 
was  dr;iwu  o^'er  them  ;  some  tocjk  I'cfuge  in  the  house.  J^ut 
thci'e,  as  the  door  had  fallen  in.  the}'  entered  b}'  the  sk}'Iight, 
and  in  the  hu!'r\'  broke  tlu^  ])anes  of  glass,  so  that  it  was  soon 
fuH  of  snow.  This  night  "was  the  most  dreadful  one  of  our 
ad\"enlurous  \-()yag(;  on  the  fk^e."" 

lM>r  five  nights  tlie  men  sle])t  in  the  boats;  the  da}  s  were 
em])lo}-ed  in  raising  their  settlement  from  its  ruins.  A 
woo.den  kitclun  was  l)uilt  and  a  dwelling  hous(\,  exactly  like 
the  one  d(>str()}'ed,  but  half  as  large  (M  feet  long  1)}'  Id  Ijroad 
and  l.l  high  in  the  iniddlej. 

In  .-])ite  of  such  friglitful  ex])ei'ienc('S,  the  nu^n  kept  cliec^i'ful. 
uiidaun1e<l,  and  exalted :  in  fact,  the  cook  kej)t  a  I'ight  seaman- 
like humour,  hax'ing  exclaimed  while  re])airiiig  the  coiiV'c 
kettle,  during  the  friglitful  ])res>ure  of  the  ice  which  (]e-tro}-e(l 
the  tioc,  •'if  tli(>  floe  Would  old}- -hold  togeth.ci'  until  he  liad 
fiui-hcd  hi<  kettle  I  he  wi-i!e(l  <o  to  make  the  evening  tea  in 
it,  -o  that,  before  oiu' (le])artur(^j  we  might  ha\'e  something 
warm.'" 


■l~>i  Tin:   CREAT    WHITE  yORTH 

]'"('bruary  and  Alai'ch  f(Hiii(l  them  h('l})le.<sly  drifting  to  the 
-^mitiiward,  aiid  by  Jut-tcr  il7tli  (jf  April)  thc\'  la\'  flcjatiiig 
lja(4vward>  and  for\vard.<  in  the  I^ay  of  L'nharbik.  Linnets 
and  .-uow-huutinji,'.-  suou  made  their  a|)pearance,  so  fearless 
and  eonfidinjj,'  that,  "Sunie  of  tlieni,"  so  >ays  Bade's  day-hook, 
'■^\"ill  alnujst  pereh  upon  ()\u'  n(jses,  and  in  fi\'e  minutes  al- 
lowed themselves  to  he  caught  three  times."' 

On  the  7th  of  May  the  agreealde  sight  of  open  water  in 
the  direction  of  land  chci-rcd  both  officers  and  men.  The 
cai)tain  n(jw  decided  that  an  attemjrt  would  ])e  made  to  leave 
the  floe  and  reach  the  coast.  The  little  connnunit}',  divid(Ml 
anhd  three  boats,  bade  farewell  to  tiie  ice-floe  whieli  liad  Ijeen 
their  liome  for  two  lumdr(-d  days. 

During  sc\-eral  day<  of  bad  weather,  small  progress  was 
made.  'Idle  m(>n  suffered  c(jnsiderably  frc^ni  exhaustion, 
>now-blindness,  and  want  of  ])ro])er  shelter  and  food  —  the 
latter  ])robIem  was  (occasioning  c(jn<ideral)le  c(.)ncern,  and 
alread\'  the  men  were  "'almost  hjoking  their  eyes  (out  after  a 
seal."  There  wa-^  but  >ix  weeks'  sh(ji't  ])rovi-ions  on  hauil 
and  a  long  distance  to  tra\"el  (jvi'i'  a  barren  and  uninhabited 
C()a-t  before  the  settlement  ('(nild  be  reacheil. 

The  ice  remaining  umuiAigable,  it  wa<  decided  to  make  tlu^ 
1-land  of  Illuidlek,  dragging  tiie  liea\'\'  boat-load-  o\'er  the 
all  but  im]);i— a'Oie  ice  hmnnKjcks. 

P.y  the  2}tli  of  May.  Mr.  Hiidebrandt  atid  th(>  sailors 
Phiiij)])  and  Paul,  set  foot  on  firm  groimd.  Theii-  eiicourag- 
iuu'  r('])ort  (Teei'ed  the  othei'>  to  -inular  exertions,  but  the 
pmure---  wa-  -low  and  exh;ui,-1  itig.  Xot  until  the  lih  of  .bme 
\\''-re  iheeiitire  ]  )art  \' landei  1  at  Illuidlek.  The  inland  })r<A"ed 
iif  rocky  t'l  irniat  ion,  naked,  and  bare  (jf  vegetation. 

"  P\ery\\-heri'  we  find  nothing,"  writes  one  of  the  ])a!'ty, 
"  I'Ut  bare  bar'-en  cliif-,  t  he  liiuher  the  wilder,  s])arinul\'  clothed 
wi'h  niM~-  and  -tunted  willows,  i^ut  n(j  ti'ace  of  human  in- 
habjlalit-." 


'•  a  Ell  MAS  I A  "    BESKT  270 

Two  clays  later  (June  6)  they  started  once  more;  their 
object  Avas  to  niak(^  for  Friech'icksthal,  the  nearest  colony  on 
the  soutliwest  coast  of  Greenland.  On  June  13,  1870,  after 
passing  throut^h  the  Straits  of  Torsudatik,  and  skirting  the 
coast,  the  Icjnged-for  bay  was  reached.  '"A  few  hundred 
steps  frcnn  the  shore  on  tiie  grc^en  ground,  stood  a  rather 
spacious  red  house,  top])ed  by  a  small  tower.  It  was  the  mis- 
sion house.  (iroups  of  natives  from  the  shore  speedily 
welcomed  tlie  wanderers  and  the  cheerful  gi'eeting  of  th«! 
AIora\'ian  missionaries:  'That  is  tlie  (ierman  flag  I  They 
art'  (jur  ])cople  !  Welcome,  welcome  to  (ireiniland  I'  fell  like 
music  in  tlieir  ears.  After  partaking  of  th(>  gcnierous  h(jspital- 
it\'  extended  by  the  missionaries,  and  taking  a  nuich-needed 
rt>st,  they  pushed  on  in  the  liopes  of  reaching  the  settlement 
of  Julianeshaab,  distant  some  eighty  miles,  wliere  the  Dani.-h 
Cond'tnce  was  expected  at  any  moment,  and  would  be  their 
only  mf^^'ans  of  reaching  Europe  that  year." 

Ijy  the  25th  of  July,  the  (jfFicers  and  crew  of  the  Ilfuisn 
weighed  anchor  for  the  homeward  vo\'age.  I'jy  the  81st  of 
July  tluy  wfM'e  on  the  liigh  sea  in  Davi;-  Strait.  '"Xo  moi'e 
ice  I  Set  southwards,  and  —  O  heavenly  music  of  the  word 
—  homewards  I" 

Tt  will  l)e  rememl)(>r(Hl  that  on  Jul}' 20,  l.S()9,  the  two  shi])s 
liad  ])ai'ted  (•()m])any,  the  (rorrtKniln  proceerling  on  lier  course 
with  ofhccM's  and  crew,  under  ihe  im])re--ion  that  the  Ilnnsa 
would  rejoin  her  within  a  slioi't  time,  AVhen.  this  did  not 
tal^e  ]^lace,  mucli  coueern  v/as  felt  for  her  fate.  ])y  tlie  27th 
of  July.  x\\i'  (i<  riiuiiiiii  stood  ~'-\^^  7'  north  latitude,  and  ]0"  1' 
west  jonuitude.  Two  days  later  an  interesting  note  is  made 
of  the  ])ecu!iar  condition  of  the  atmo--])here. 

"The  Aveathei'  wa-^  vIvav  ainl  -till,  and  we  ha'l  a  good  o])])or- 
tunity  of  o!)ser\-inu-  the  refi'action  of  liuht  and  the  mirauv. 
The  whole  atmo-])hei'e  was  (]ui\'ering  with  a  kisid  of  avmvv 
motion,  -o  that  the  exact  (jut line  of  the  (jbject  was  cjften  -o 


'so 


Till-:   CUKAT    WHITE   y<)l!TII 


distorted  us  to  Ix'  uurccounizublc  It  ma}'  he  iiiiaainc*!  tluit 
pictures  ot'  lliin.u'-  far  lieyoud  our  rau.u'c  (jl'  -iiiht  (■()uld  tliu^  be 
seen.  Score^liy  relate>,  and  it  afterward-  ],)r(n-ed  true,  that 
he  once  saw  and  reco<ini/ed  las  i'ather's  >hi])  peifictly  in  the 
inira,L!,('  when  it  was  thirt\"  miles  (h<lant.  The  effects  of  this 
])henonienon  on  the  (Hstant  ice  was  w(jnderful  :  >onietini(-s 
it  a])])eared  lij^e  a  nh,uht\'  wah.  and  s(jnietinies  hke  a  toAvn 
rich  iii  tower-  and  ca-tl(>." 

Carefull}'  pu-hiniz;  a  way  between  the  fioe<.  the  (icrnidn'Ki 
stoofl  ^\■itllin  thirt}'  mile.-  (jf  Sabine  Island  by  Au,u'U>t  1.  Sa.ii- 
ii!<;' >traijj,-!it  for  ( iriper  lioad-,  r-he  at  la-t  anchored  in  a  -mall 
bay  whieh  wa<  afterward  her  AX'inter  harboui'. 

On  the  oth  of  Au,u'u-t ,  anchoi'  wa-  dro]^])ed,  ai!<l  the  (lerman 
flau'  hoi>ted  on  (du'cidand  -liil.  amid  h^ud  clieei'-.  Sabine 
I-land  forms  a  ])ai't  of  the  ^u'roup  known  a-  Pendulum  I>!and-. 
di.-cover(-d  b\'  ('la\'eriiiu.'  in  ls2o.  Sabine's  ob<ervator>" 
was  carefully  seai'ched  foi'.  l)ut  no  indications  of  it-  remain- 
wei'e  f(nmd.  Ti'ace-  of  E,-kimo  -mmuer  hut-  A\'ere  discm'eriMl, 
h(;A\'e\-er.  _u'i\'in,ti'  e\'idenee  of  lonsi;  liabitalion. 

(  >n  the  ]7)\\[  of  Auuu-t,  t  he  '''V /'///'///'''/  ^ailed  a<  far  a<  To' 
.'!!'  north  latitudj',  -ome  di-tance  bfyond  Shannon  Islaml. 
the  extrenu'  ])oint  disco\-er'ed  by  ( 'la\'erin'j,'  and  Sabine.  At 
Siiannon  I-land.  I'ir-t  Li'-utenant  Payer.  aci'oni])anie(l  by 
-e\'('!i  companion-;,  ami  ])ro\-i-!oned  fm'  -ix  day-,  made  a  t  r\' 
of  inv('-t  iu'at  inn.  Lieutenant  Payei''-  de-efipi  i(  m  of  t  he  pla- 
teau to  the  -outhwest  of  Sliaunon  i-  i!it('r''-t  iliu-.  Teh-platte. 
a-  it  i<  calle(l.  i-  -ix  hund.red  and  -e\'enty  feet  ;ibo\-f  tlie  -ca. 
■•  Ih-r<-  on  th''  broad  mon?it;iin  top  were  ma—'-  of  I'libbi-h  of 
uni-i--  fi  ii'mai 'on.  re-eniblim:'  t  ho-e  on  Pendulum  I-land.  We 
were  al-M  a-tiini-hc(l  by  the  -i<i!:t  of  ,a  l.aruc  !ial  ])ri  mioiit  oi'y 
!-oulh  o!'  IIa\'-1ai'k  w!ii<'h  i<  not  di-tini-tlv  iii.arkcd  nn  ( 'la\-- 
erinu"-  ch.art-.  Tlie  \\r\\-  nf  the  front  cna-t  i  u'  (  d'ecnland  AVa- 
fu!i  I  if  in;ije-;  if  1  .i-;iu!>\'" 

lla\un,u'  la.fj'U  up  wint  if  (piai't  er- at  Sabine  I-land.  Si'])teiM- 


uiyrKi:  281 

l)'n'  13,  ("aptaiu  Koldcwty  and  LicHilcuaut  Pay(>r  undertook 
a  --ledtic  journey  to  Flegely  Fiord.  They  returned  to  the  .ship 
Se])t(Mnb(M'  21,  after  an  absence  of  sev(ni  (ho.'s,  having  travelled 
13)3o  miles.  The  longAvinter  })assed  in  lluMisual  monotonous 
fashion,  and  in  pivparation  for  the  spring  sledge  journeys.  A 
thrilling  incident,  however,  occurnnl  early  in  March,  Avhich  is 
almost  unpreced(>n1ed  in  Arctic  adventure. 

'A\'e  were  sitting,"'  writes  Lieutenant  Pay(M',  '"fortunately 
sil(>nt  in  tlie  cabin,  wluni  Koldcnvey  suddenly  heard  a  faint  cry 
foi'  h(>lp.  AVe  all  hurriedly  tumbUnl  up  the  companion-ladder 
to  the  deck,  when  an  exclamation  from  Borgen,  'A  l)ear  is 
carrying  me  off  I"  struck  painfully  on  our  ears.  It  was  dai'k  ; 
we  could  scarcely  see  anA'thing,  but  we  made  dii'cctly  for  the 
(luartcM-  whence^  the  cry  proceeded,  armed  with  pol(>s.  weapons, 
i^tc,  ov(M-  luunmocks  and  di'ifts,  when  an  alami-shot,  which 
we  fired  in  the  air,  seemed  to  make  some  little  im|)ression,  as 
the  i)ear  dropped  his  prey,  and  ran  forwai'd  a  few  ])a(H\s.  He 
turncnl  again.  liow(^ver,  dragging  his  \-ictim  o\'ei'  the  broken 
shore-ice.  close  to  a  field  which  stretched  in  a  soutln^'ly  direc- 
tion. All  depended  upon  our  coming  u])  A\'ith  him  Ix^fore  he 
should  readi  this  field,  as  h(^  would  carry  his  prey  over  tlu^ 
o])(Mi  plain  with  the  spcnnl  of  a  hoi'sc,  and  tlius  esca])e.  AA'e 
succ(H^d(Hl.  Th(>  bear  turncnl  u])on  us  for  a  moment,  and  tluMi, 
scared  by  our  contimious  fire,  1(>1  fall  hi<  ])i-(\v.  \\"(^  lifte(l 
our  ])oor  comrade  up  on  to  1  he  ice,  to  bca!'  him  to  his  cabin,  — ■ 
a  task  which  was  rendered  somewluit  difficult  !>}■  the  slipp(>ry 
and  unevcai  surface  of  th(>  ic(\  P)Ut  aftei'  we  had  gone  a  litth^ 
way.  ]^)org(Mi  implored  us  to  make  as  much  hasl(>  as  ])ossible. 
()!i  ])rocuring  a  light,  th(>  coldest  nature  would  luu'e  becMi 
shoclceil  ;it  the  s])ectacle  whicli  poof  Borgen  [)re-ented.  Tlu^ 
bear  had  torn  his  seal])  in  se\-eral  phiees.  and  he  had  rec(M\-e(l 
injui'ie<  in  other  ])arts  of  his  iiody.  His  clothes  and  liair  wei'e 
saturated  with  blood.  We  impi'o\ised  a  couch  for  him  in  the 
vcav  of  our  cabin,  as  liis  own  was  not  lari!,(>  (>;iouu:h,.     The  first 


::^<S2  THE  CUE  AT  WHITE  yoirrir 

operation  was  })('rforin(Hl  upon  liiiu  on  Ww  cabin  table.  And 
hei'e  we  may  briefly  notice  tlie  singular  fact  that,  although  ho 
had  been  carricMl  more  than  100  pac(^s  witli  his  skull  almost 
laid  l)are,  at  a  tempc^'ature  of — 13°  Fahrenheit,  his  seal})  lieahxl 
so  pei'feclly  that  not  a  single  portion  was  missing." 

Pvorgen  (h^sciibes  thi^  sudden  attack  of  tlu^  ))ear  as  follows  : 
''About  a  (|uarter  bcvfore  nine  p.m.  I  had  gone  out  to  observe 
the  occultation  of  a  star,  which  was  to  take  place  about  that 
time,  ;uid  also  to  take  thc>  meteorological  readings.  .Vs  I 
A\"as  in  tlu^  act  of  getting  on  shore,  ( 'aj)tain  Koldewey  came 
on  to  the  ice.  W'v  s])()ke  for  a  few  moments,  when  I  \\cni  on 
shore,  wliile  he  returncMl  to  the  cabin.  On  my  return  from 
the  obsei'vatory,  about  fifty  st('p,s  fi'om  the  vess(^l,  I  hc^ai'd 
a  rustling  iioise  to  the  left,  and  became?  aware  of  the  ])roximity 
of  a  bear,  d'here  was  no  tinu^  to  think,  or  us(Mny  gun.  The 
grip  ^\■as  so  sudden  and  rii])i(l.  that  1  am  unal)le  to  say  how  it 
was  done;  Avhether  the  bear  rose  and  struck  m(^  down  with 
his  fore-paws,  or  whether  he  ran  m(>  down.  But  fi'om  the 
charnder  of  the  injuries  I  ha\'e  i'ecei\-ed  (contusions  and  a 
deep  cut  on  tlu^  left  ear),  I  conclud(^  that  tlu^  fornuM'  must 
ha\'e  been  th(>  case.  Th(^  newt  th.ing  I  feU  Avas  the  tearing  of 
my  scalp,  A\'hich.  was  onl\'  ])r()tect(Ml  by  a  sIcuH  ca]).  This  is 
theii'  ino(l(!  of  attacking  s(vils,  but,  owing  to  the  slip[)eriness  of 
their  skulls,  tlu^  t(H'lh  glid(^  o!f.  The  ciy  for  lielp  which  I 
uttered  iVightened  the  animal  for  a  momeid.  ;  but  he  turned 
again  and  bit  me  se\-eral  tim(>s  on  the  head.  The  alarm  had 
meatiAvhile  b(>en  heard  by  the  ('aptain,  Avho  had  not  yet 
reache(l  the  cabin.  He  hiu'i'iecl  on  dec!<,  con\-iiiced  himself 
that  it  wa^  rea,ll>-  an  ahu'm,  roused  up  the  ci'ew  and  hastened 
oil  to  Ihe  ice,  bringing  assistance  to  his  struggling  conu'ade. 
The  noise  ('X'idently  frightened  the  bear,  and  he  trotted  off 
with  lii-;  pi'ey,  which  he  dragged  by  the  head.  A  sliot  fired 
to  frighicn  tli(^  crealurc  ctfected  its  ])urpose,  iinismuch  as  he 
dropped   me,   and   spi'ang  a    few  st(>ps    aside;     but    lie  inune- 


LTFA'T.    paver's    HEM AEK All LE  JOUR XF.Y  2S3 

diutcly  s(M/,('(l  luc  by  the  arm,  niul,  liis  hold  pi'oviii^'  insuflicic^nt, 
lir  s(MZ('(l  luc  by  the  right  huiul,  on  which  was  a  fur  glove, 
and  this  gave  tlu^  ])ursu('rs  time  to  come  U})  witli  the  hrute, 
which  had  by  its  great  specxl  left  them  far  behind.  lie  was 
now  making  for  the  shore,  and  would  certainly  have  escapcnl 
with  his  prey,  liad  he  succcH'ded  in  climbing  the  bank.  How- 
ever, as  he  came  to  the  edge  of  the  ice,  he  tunuHl  along  the 
coast  side,  continuing  on  the  rough  and  broken  ice,  which 
gi'catly  retarded  his  s])(hmI,  and  thus  allowtnl  his  pursuers 
u])on  the  ice  to  gain  rapidly  upon  him.  After  being  ch'agged 
in  tliis  way  for  about  300  paces,  almost  strangl(>d  by  my 
sliawl,  whicli  the  bear  luid  seized  at  the  same  tim(\,  he  dropped 
me,  and  imnuHliatidy  afterwards  Koldewey  was  l)ending  over 
me,  with  the  words  'Tliank  Clod  !  he  is  still  ali\-e.'  The  bear 
stood  a  few  paces  on  one  side  evidtaitly  undecided  what  course 
to  pursue,  until  a  bullet  gave  him  a  hint  that  it  was  high  time 
to  take  himself  oiT." 

Preparations  litiving  be(Mi  completed  for  an  ext(>nded  sledge 
journey  to  examine  1  lu^  bays  and  inlets  of  the  mainland,  the 
]xirty  stai'ted  Mai-ch  S.  ]S70,  and  wei'e  absent  luitil  April  27 
after  tw(Mity-three  da\"s  of  most  arduous  laboui's.  Lieutenant 
I'ayer  had  the  sati-;faction  of  reaching  77°  I'  north  latitude, 
at  that  time  tlu>  most  noi'therly  ])oint  i^ver  rcviched  on  tlu^  east 
coast  of  ( ireenland.  I''rom  an  ele\'ate(l  sight  the  sea  np]:)(^ared 
co'x-ered  with  ;ui  unl)roken  field  of  hummocks,  and  land  was 
seen  to  strict ch  out  in  a  nortluM-h'  direction  as  far  as  1lu^  eye 
could  I'each. 

OtluM'  journ(\vs  which  followcMl  at  close  intervals  greatly 
added  1o  tlie  geogra])hical  knowh^dgi^  of  the  coast.  t)n  the 
return  from  omM)f  these,  they  disco\'ered  (\)\\\  of  August)  the 
eiit!';uic(^  to  a  magnificent  fioi'd  to  the  south  of  Cape  Franklin 
'73^  10'  north  latitude),  into  which  the\'  ])(Miet]'ated  to  a  dis- 
tance of  s(>\-(>n1y-two  nautical  mil(\-<.  As  ihey  advanced 
into   the   intei'ior,  a  decided   change   in    the   1em])e)'ature  was 


-^1  Tin:  CHEAT    WHITE  \()irri[ 

noliccd.  the  at iii()>1)1i'T('  and  water  hccamc  warnicr.  and  lierds 
ui  reindeer  and  niu-k-oxen  were  seen:  huuerflies,  bees,  and 
othei'  in-e<'t>  fiutlereil  ()\-er  llie  "i'l'een  earth.  Nothing  euuld 
exceecl  the  iii'an<leur  oi  the  scener\-. 

■•  Xuinerou-  lilaeicrs  and  cascades  descended  from  the  nioini- 
tains,  wiiieh  rose  liiuher  and  higliei'  as  the\'  a<h'anced  lowartis 
the  we.-t.  Lieutenant  Payer  and  Doctor  ( "opeland  ha\'ing 
chnihed  a  peak  7t)l)0  i'eet  high  saw  the  fi(jrd  .-till  hranching  out 
in  the  di-tance,  aiid  towards  the  west  a  remote  chain  of 
mountain-,  situated  ahout  ;)2^  AA'.  lonu'.,  ri>ing  to  an  altitude 
of  at  lea-t  11, ()()()  feet,  terminated  the  magnificent  ])ros])ect. 
The  interior  of  (ii'cenland  thus  |)ro\'('d  it>elf  to  he  not  a  mere 
nak(-d  ])!ateau  co\'ej-e(l  ^\•ith  jjerpetual  ice-fields,  luit  in  some 
part-  at  lea-t  a  countr}'  (jf  Alpine  gi';indeur."" 

*  )n  tl:e  21th  (jf  Augu-t.  the  (iinnnnid  steered  her  cotu'se 
for  honi'- :  a-  the  ship  cleared  the  last  of  the  ( '.reenland  ice, 
("a|)tain  Ivoldew^'V  (iuote(l  the  word-  of  old  Scoresl)y  under 
>iniilar  condition-.  ■■-MyA\'atch  i-  o\'ei'I"  he  u-ed  to  .-ay  — 
and  turning  to  Mr.  Seng-taclie.  ('ai)tain  Koldewey  exclaimcil, 
"AI\'  watch  i-  o\-erI"'  and  reiireil  to  hi-  cahin  witli  a  feeling 
of  -ecuril\'  tiiat  he  luul  not  enjoyed  for  man\'  a  da}'. 

Pui--uinii;  a  cour-e  pa-t  Iceland  lietweeii  the  Faroe  and 
Sheihmd  i-le-.  they  -loorl  off  Heligolaiul.  Sej)temher  10. 
■'At  da\'h'rea;\,  t;:ouli'h  we  !iad  -eeu  Uo  ])il<it.  We  I'ecognized 
Waiiucrooi!.'.'.  and  -tf'ered  along  the  South  wall  to  the  mouth 
of  1  !:(■  \\  e-e,".       X( )  -i^u  (,f  a  -!iip  !       The  \\'e<er  >eeiiied  to  ha\'e 

diefl  oui.  Wheiv  are  the  ))ilot-  hidden?  Ai'e  the\'  l\'ing 
I II  ril II  on  ai 'Count  of  ye-t  ei'da>"'-  -t  orm  ?  W  ejl,  t  lien,  we  mu-t 
rnn  inio  the  \\f-^-v  wii'iout  ihein.  the  wind  i<  fa\'oi'aMe,  the 
Weal  her  e|(-ar.  \\v  out  er  hu;  ly  will  he  ea->'  to  hnd  :  there  i-  t  he 
e'lnreh-l  ■■)W\-V  of  \\  ;ingei'oo'i.'i'.  Su-pecl  ing  Hot  hlllU'.  W'i-  -teered 
on:  the  towei'  hear-  -out  !i--oUl  hwe-t  ,  -oUiln\'e-t  hy  -outh, 
-oiit  !iW(-i .  hii'  i!M  1  iiioy  in  -iuht .  The  (  'apt  ain  and  -i  eer-nian 
loo!-;   at   eaeh  olher  in   a-loni-hnient.      ('an   we  ha\'e  heen   ,-(j 


nj-rrriix  of  tuk  ''  gkilmama"  285 

mistaken  and  out  of  our  rockouius "•'  l>ut,  no!  Tliat  is 
certainly  Wan52;er()oj>;e  ;  the  (k"i)tii  of  Avatcr  ai2;ro(>s,  our  com- 
pass is  correct.  Xo  (U)ul)t  a})out  it,  we  are  in  the  W'eser  ; 
something  unusual  nuist  hav(^  ha])pene(l  !  Still  no  sail  in 
sight!  But  what  is  that  ?  Yonder  are  tluM-oads.  There  are 
sev(M-al  large  vessels  under  st(^am  ;  tluw  a1  least  can  give  us 
souK^  information.  So  we  make  for  th(>m.  We  sa,luted  the 
(ierman  fkig,  and  soon  the  cry  was  he;u'd,  'A\'ar,  war  with 
k' ranee  ;  Xa])oleon  a  pi'isoncr  !  France  has  declared  a  lle- 
])ul)lic  ;  our  armies  are  before^  Paris  ! '  And  then,  '  Ilaiisa 
destroyed  in  the  ice,  crew  saved.'  We  thought  we  were 
dreaming,  and  stood  stiff  with  astonishment  at  such  gr;uid 
and  heart-stirring  news.  X'ot  until  a  kjud  huri'ah  for  King 
William  sounded  from  a  hundred  (ierman  throats  did  we  re- 
gain our  speech,  and  answer  with  another  'Hurrah!'" 


CHAPTER   XV 

Austrian  cxpodition,  1S71.  -  Pa^'cr  and  \\'cy])rocht..  — The  Tajdi- 
liiijj  adi'ift  in  the  Polar  ])acl>:.  —  Discox-cry  of  J'"ranz  ,i(jscf 
Land. --- Payer's  <lcd<i-(>  journeys.  — Payer's  farthest  82'"'  ")' 
north  latitude. --(  a])!'  Idijiely.  -  Aliandoiunc-nt  of  the  T((]iH- 
linjj.  —  JJeli'cat  of  ofiicf'rs  and  cj'ew.  —  Picked  up  tjy  liussian 
fislu'ruien.  ^      '"  Ihjiue." 


I!a\ix(;  .liaiiK^l  iinieh  (li-linclioii  for  his  valuahh;  scrvifos 
in  the  second  ( ici'nian  ('.xpiMJitioii,  Pieutciumt  Pax'cr  ^vas  re- 
soh'cd  lo  continue  iii  the  paih  of  polar  (lisco\'ery.  The  fol- 
lo\\'in,<i' yeai'.  in  com])any  with  iiis  coUeatUiie  and  I'riend,  Lieu- 
tenant \\'ey])recht  of  the  Aust  ri;in-f  luii.u'ariaii  \a\"\',  he 
ef|ui])pe(l  tlie  Xorw'eii-ian  schooner  !shjii/')i  and  examined  the 
v^hj^c  of  the  ice  'oetween  S])it zoer^ucii  and  Xo\-a  Zeinhla, 
reaching-  7S'  l-'P  north  latitude,  and  \'2^  .'JO'  ea>t  lon^uil  ude,  on 
{  he   1  -1   of  Septeinhe!'.    hS71 . 

'Idle  zealous  endea\'()urs  of  Payer  and  \\'ey])re(dit  succeeded 
in  callin.L!,'  into  existefice  a  still  lar,uer  Au>ti'ian  exi)editiou  in 
ls72.  d'heir  ])lan  A\'as  to  .-elect  a  route  1  ly  the  north  (ud  of 
Xi)\-a  Zenilila  with  a  \-ie\v  t  o  inaldnii;  t  he  \oi1  liea-t    Pa-^au'e. 

'  A\'ey])recht  wa-  lo  ciwiinian.d  the  shij),  T<'i(  llhnjj',  wdiile 
Lieutenant  Pax'er  was  to  conduct  the  >led^-;-  ])ariie-.  ddie 
Ti  i,t  lllnilj'  r~:\\\cil  from  P)i'eiuei'!ia\'en  dune  PL  1n72.  hearing; 
in  he!'  cour,-e  lo  dd'oni-oe.  Ifer  e(|uii)nient  wa-  hhei'al  and 
cc'efuhy  ■-(■lected,  {he  tot  al  e\i)en--e  of  t  lie  expedii  ii  m  a  mount - 
iim  to  L'ls,.'i:!d.  d'he  olhcei'-  and  crew  munhei-ed  twent\'- 
ft  )ur  ~i  lUP. 

■'  i  )ila\"eil  1 1\-  -torm-  auionu'  Pui'  L'lffoden  l.-le:-,  t  h''\"  did  !iof 


.ir>'77.'/.i.v  arctk:  vovagi-js  287 

reach  Troinsoe  until  Juh'  'A.  Ten  days  lattT  the  TegeWiojJ 
turned  her  ])n)w  to  the  north  ;  the  X()i'\V('L;,ian  (•()a>t  with  its 
inan\'  .uhicicrs  ^\•as  in  full  view  on  July  10,  North  Cape  loomed 
in  the  liiue  i[istan('(\  J^y  July  2.3,  while  in  lat.  71"  0'  lo"  X., 
the  ice  -was  siti'lited  ;  prijceedinu;  with  careful  na\'igati(.)n 
throu,t;h  o])cns  in  the  frozen  ocean,  the  shij)  ino\'ed  in  her 
courx'  until  tlie  end  of  Aujiiist,  when  she  became  heset  nt^ar 
("ape  Nassau,  at  the  northern  endi  of  Xo\"a  Zemhla,  havin<2; 
just  parted  with  the  Ishjnm  near  I^arentz  Isle,  where  ( 'ount 
W'ilczek  was  placina;  supplies  for  theii'  possible  retreat."' 

'■Ominous  were  the  events  of  tliat  day/"  wi'ites  Payer, 
■'for  immeiliately  after  wt'  had  made  fast  tlie  Tcgcithojj'  to 
that  floe,  the  ice  closer'  in  tipon  tis  from  all  sides  ami  we  l)(H'amo 
I'lose  ])risoncM's  in  its  grasp.  Xo  water  was  to  he  seen  around 
us,  and  lurrr  (Hjnin  U'cre  o'c  dcsiinul  ta  sec  our  v^ssd  in  waUr. 
IIa])]\\'  is  it  f(_)i'  nuni  that  inextinguishahU^  iKjpe  enables  them 
to  endure  all  the  vicissitudes  of  fate,  which  are  to  test  their 
])()wers  of  endurance,  and  that  they  can  ne\-(>r  see.  at  a  glance, 
the  long  sin'ies  of  disa])pointments  in  store  for  them  I  ^\'e 
must  have  lieen  filled  with  (U\-<})air,  had  Ave  known  tliat  even- 
ing that  we  were  henceforward  doomed  to  ohe}'  the  ca])rices  of 
the  ice,  that  the  >hip  would  nev(M'  again  float  on  the  waters  of 
the  sea.  that  all  the  expectations  Avith  which  our  friends,  hut 
a  few  hours  hefor(\  >aw  the  T( gdtJK iff  >\vau\  awa\'  to  the  north, 
were  now  ci'uslied  :  thai  ire  irerc  in  fdd  no  Jomjcr  discorcri  rs, 
h'lt  p'l.-sr/iijt  rs  (iijoinst  our  iriU  on  ilic  ice.  ]-"rom  day  to  da}', 
we  IkiixhI  foi-  tli<'  I'iour  of  our  d<>li\"erance  !  At  hrst  we  ex- 
j)ccted  it  hourly,  tlien  daily,  then  from  week  to  w(M>k  ;  then 
at  tile  -ea>ons  of  the  year  and  chang(^s  of  the  weather,  then  in 
tic  clumce-  nf  new  years  !  But  Uuit  hour  lu  n  r  coini .  \v\  tlie 
liiiht  of  ho])e,  Avhicli  su])])orts  man  in  all  hi-  suffering,  and  raises 
him  ako\-t'  them  ail,  nc\'er  for-ook  tis.  amid  all  the  d<'j)rc,— -iim- 
intiuerici'  of  ex])e(iat  ioMs  clicrisheil  only  to  he  (li<a])])ointcd." 

To  rtnicli  the  coast   of  Sil^eria  under  these  circmnstanct^s 


288  THE   GliKAT    WHITE    SOllTII 

had  hccomc  an  iin])()-sii)ilit>',  and  even  in  case  the  ship  Ix'canic 
liberated,  the  search  tor  a  winter  harlxjur  in  \uva  Zeniljla 
would  he  a  matter  of  ])eril  and  difiicailtx'. 

I)ril'tin<i'.  not  with  the  cairrent,  hut  in  the  direction  of  tlie 
prevailin.u;  wind,  the  land  of  Xova  Zenihla  receded  until  it 
faded  out  of  >ight  and  only  a  desert  of  ice  surrounded  them. 
The  frightful  ice  con\"ul-ions  which  fre(|uently  threatened 
tlieir  dc-ti'uction,  determine(l  the  men  to  build  a  house  on  the 
main  ih^'.  Avher(^  su])plies  of  coal,  fuel,  and  provisions  were 
stored.  Lieutenant  Payer  comments  on  the  terrible  condi- 
tions under  which  they  existed. 

■■()ne  of  u<,  to-d.;iy.  remarked  \-er\-  trulx'.  that  lie  saw  per- 
fectl}' well  how  one  miuht  l<;>e  \\\<  reason  with  the  continuance 
of  thes(>  sudden  and  ince<>ant  assaults.  It  is  not  dan^^ers  that 
we  fear,  but  wor-e  far;  Ave  are  ke])t  in  a  constant  state  of 
readine-<  to  meet  de-U'Uction.  and  know  not  whether  it  will 
come  to-day  or  to-mori'ow,  or  in  a  year.  E'eery  ni,ulit  we  are 
startled  out  of  >leep,  and.  like  hunteil  animal-,  u])  we  si)rino' 
to  await  amid  an  awful  darknes>.  the  end  of  an  enterprise 
from  which  all  ho])e  of  .-ucces<  ha>  de])ai'te(l.  It  becomes  at 
last  a  mei'c  mecliaiiical  ])rocess  to  -eize  oiu'  i'ifle>  and  our  ])a<4' 
of  nece^-arie-  and  I'u-h  eiu  deck.  In  t  lie  daytime,  leaniii,u'  o\'er 
the  bulwark-  of  the  shi]).  AN'h.ich  tremble-,  yea,  almost  (iui\'ers 
the  while,  we  look  out  oil  a  continual  woi'k  of  (lotruclion  ,u'oin<2; 
on.  and  al  iiiiihl,  a-  A\'e  listen  to  the  loud  and  ex'ei'-increasinti; 
noi-i'~  wf  the  ice.  we  a,-a1  her  that  the  foi'ces  of  our  enemy  ai'e 
iiicrea-inu." 

The  houi's  of  th(-e  dark  an<l  di-!iearteuiiiii:  d.a\'-  were  pa>sed 
in  laidici'  ()b-ei'\-at  ion-,  exerci-e.  aiul  ()cca>io!ial  bear  and 
^]eli^v  iiiurney-.  In  -])ile  iif  thi-  the  time  crept  awa\-  Avith 
i:ide-cribalili'  moiiotMuy.  I)uriiiu'  I-"ebruary  the  -hip  di'ifled 
fir-t  Mi)ii  iiwe-t  and  1  heti  nor;  h.  f  tie  ui'eale^t  lonuitude  attaineil 
bi  ill'.!,'  71  h..  !••  7'.*  X.  ;  and  ih"  -umnier  of  lS7o  adviuice(l 
wiliioiil  aii\'  -iiin-  oi'  freciim  them. 


/ 


^:::; 


/•'/■"/"    ■•  Tin     Vn.i.uj.    ,,'   //,,     V,,p,.-   Marn.-Unn    \   C,,.,    Ltd.,   LnwU, 
A.    i;.    \Miiiii;x--Kj'"iLi) 


DISCOVERY  OF  FEAyZ  JOSEF  LAND  289 

With  sad  resignation  the  officers  and  crew  looked  forward 
to  passinji;  anotlier  wintei'  in  the  ice,  altliough  plenty  of  birds, 
seal,  and  Ix^ars  insured  them  fresh  meat,  so  essential  for  the 
preserx'ation  of  health  in  high  latitudes. 

'■  A  nieniorai)le  day,"  writes  Payer,  "was  the  31st  of  August, 
1873,  in  79°  43'  Lat.,  and  59°  33'  E.  Long.  That  day  brought 
a  surprise,  such  as  only  the  awakening  to  a  new  life  can  pro- 
duce. About  midday,  as  we  were  leaning  on  the  bulwarks 
of  tlu^  ship  and  scanning  the  gliding  mists,  through  which  the 
rays  of  the  sun  broke  ever  and  anon,  a  wall  of  mist,  lifting  it- 
self u})  suddenly,  revealed  to  us,  afar  off  in  the  northwest, 
tlu^  outlines  of  bold  rocks,  whicli  in  a  few  minutes  seemed 
to  grow  into  a  radiant  Alpine  land  !  At  first  W(>  all  stood 
transhxed  and  hardly  believing  what  we  saw.  Then,  carried 
away  l)y  tlie  reality  of  our  good  fortune,  we  burst  forth  into 
shouts  of  joy  —  'Land,  land,  land  at  last !'  There  was  now 
not  a  sick  man  on  l)oard  the  Tegctfhoff.  The  news  of  the 
discov(H\v  spread  in  an  instant.  EvcM'y  ont^  rushed  on  deck, 
to  convince  himself  with  his  own  eyes,  that  th(^  expc^lition 
was  not  after  all  a  failure, —  there  l.)ef()re  us  lay  the  prize 
that  could  not  \)v  snatcluHl  from  us.  Yc^t  not  f)y  our  own 
action,  but  tlirough  the  happy  caprice  of  our  floe  and  as  in  a 
dream  had  wc^  won  it,  luit  when  we  thought  of  the  floe,  drifting 
witliout  int(M-mission,  we  iclt  with  r(>doubled  pain,  that  we 
W(>r{^  at  the  mere}'  of  its  movt^nents.  As  yet  we  had  secured 
no  Vv'inter  harl)our,  from  which  the  exploration  of  the  strange 
land  could  ])e  succc^ssfuUy  und(M-tak(>n.  For  tlu^  i)r(>sent,  too, 
it  was  licit  within  tlu^  v(M'ge  of  jiossibility  to  I'c^ach  and  visit  it. 
If  W(>  had  l<>ft  our  fio(\  we  sliould  hav(^  bcn^n  cut  off  and  lost. 
It  was  only  undcM'  tlu^  influence^  of  tlie  first  (>xciten.uait  that  we 
made  a  ru^h  o\"er  our  ice-field,  although  \vc  knew  that  number- 
l(^ss  fissurc^s  made  it  im])()ssil)le  to  reach  tlu^  land.  But, 
difiiculties  uot^\'itllstanding,  wIumi  we  ran  to  th(^  (xlge  of  our 
fioe,  we  beheld  from  a  ridgc^  of  ice  the  mountains  and  glaciers 


lI'.'U  77/7-;   (JtiEAT    Willi  t:    XOHTH 

of  tho  ni\"stcrioiis  land.  Its  valleys  sci'incd  to  our  fond  illumi- 
nation clotlu'd  \\i\\[  jii'c-en  })a>turcs,  ovvr  which  herds  oi  rein- 
deer roamed  in  undisturbed  enjoyment  of  their  liberty,  and 
far  from  all  floes. 

"For  thousands  of  years  this  land  had  lain  l^uried  from 
the  knowledge  of  men.  and  now  its  discnn'ery  had  fallen  int(j 
the  la})  (^f  a  small  band,  themseh'es  almost  lost  to  tlic  world, 
who  far  from  their  home  rc-membered  the  homagf  due  their 
sovereign,  and  gave  to  the  nev.'ly  diseo\-(M'ed  territ(M'y  the 
name  Kaiscu'  Franz  Josef  Land.  With  loud  hurrahs  we 
drank  to  tiu^  health  of  (jur  Emperor  in  grog  ha-tily  made  on 
di'ck  in  an  ircni  coffee-pot,  and  then  dressed  the  TcfjdlhojJ 
with  flags.  All  cares,  for  the  present,  at  least,  disap'pearcd, 
and  with  them  the  passive  monotony  of  our  li\'cs.  Thei'e 
wa>  not  a  day,  there  was  hardly  an  hour,  in  which  this  mysteri- 
ous land  did  not  henceforth  occup\-  our  thoughts  and  atten- 
tion." 

In  ( )ct()ber  th(^  v(^s<cl  drifted  within  three  miles  of  an  i-laud 
l\"ing  off  the  main  ma->  of  land.  Lieutenant  l\iyer  lande(l 
on  it.  and  found  it  to  be  in  latiiudc  7!*'  o  F  X.  \l  wa<  nanu'd 
aft(-r  Count  ^^"ilcz('k,  \\"ho>('  deep  interest  in  the  ex])edition 
had  won  foi'  him  the  affect i(.)n  of  all. 

A  -ccijnd  winter  sett!f<l  ui)on  the  Ti  [jdOnijJ  iivj\  Ikm"  (-rew  at 
tlii-  ])oint.  the  chief  di\'er>ion  bcinu'  bear  hunt-.  'v.\  \\\{\r\\  no  Ic-s 
tlian  sixty-sc\-en  bear-  were  killed.  ( )n  tlie  iOth  of  March. 
bS7  b  Pa\'er  nuide  a  ])reliminary  sledo-(>  journey,  the  object  of 
which  w;i-  to  delei'mine  the  ])()-ition  and  u'eneral  rehitions  of 
the  neAv  land.  A  large  -ledo-e  wu-  u-eil  and  AVa-  ei|ui|)])e(l  for 
a  week  :  ii  carried  an  exl  ra  (plant  ii  y  of  ])i'o\"i-i()n-,  v/hjeli  Avere 
intended  to  form  dc] )o1-,  for  the  moi'e  exteiid.cd  -ledii'e  journey 
coutemplateil  for  latef  on.  d'hirly-nine  |")ound<  oi  Imrd  bread, 
tix'e  pounii<  of  ])e!n!nic;tn,  .-ixteen  ])ound-  of  boijeil  'h'^ef, 
one  pound  (if  pen— au-au'e.  Mne-h:df  pound  of  -;ilt  ;ind  ])eppi-r. 
-ix  pounds  of  rice,  two  ])oimd.-  of  grits.  li\-e  poimdsof  chocijiate, 


/M}'/;/;".S    HLEUGE  JOURNEYH  291 

fn'C  gallons  of  rum,  one  pound  of  extract  of  meat,  two  pounrls 
of  coudensi'd  milk,  and  (>ight  gallons  of  alcohol.  The  party 
consist(Hl  of  Payer  and  .six  men,  with  three  dogs. 

Intense  cold  and  violent  snow-storms,  the  thermometer 
f;uling  as  low  as  —59°,  caused  great  suffering  to  the  men  from 
frost  1  )ites.  This  frightful  temperature  was  experienced  Alarch 
14.  On  tliat  day  Payer  with  a  Tyrolese  mountain  climber 
stood  on  the  summit  of  the  precipitous  face  of  the  Sonklar- 
(dacier,  whose  broad  terminal  front  overhangs  the  frozen 
l_)ay  of  Xordenskjcdd  Fiord. 

After  making  deposits  of  provisions,  the  party  were  obliged 
to  return  to  the  ship,  after  an  absence  of  five  days. 

On  3,Iarch  20,  Lieutenant  Paycn-  with  ten  men  and  three 
dogs  started  on  a  more  extc^nded  journey  of  thirty  days. 
The  cc|uipment  for  this  second  trip  consisted  of  :  — 

lbs. 
the  large  sledge 1.50 

the  i)rovisi(jns,  including  packing 620 

the  dog  slcMlge ?u 

the  tent,  sleeping  l)ags,  tent-poles,  and  Alpin(>  stock  320 

alcohol  and  rum 128 

fur  coat:s  and  fur  gloves 140 

instnunents,  rifles,  ammunition 170 

shovel,  2  c(joking-macliin(^s,  drag-ropes,  dog-tent,  etc. 

I^acli  of  the  four  sack's  of  ])ro\'isions  —  calculated  for  sev(Mi 
days  and  ><'ven  men  —  contained  fifty-one  pounds  of  l)oiled 
beef,  forty-eight  pounds  of  bread,  eight  pounds  of  pemmican, 
scvn  jiounds  of  bacon,  two  pounds  of  extract  of  m(_^at,  four 
])!>unds  of  condensed  milk,  two  pounds  of  coh'ee,  four  pounds 
of  chocolate,  se\'en  pounds  of  rice,  xhvov  ])ounds  of  grits, 
oi;;'  |)()un.l  of  salt  and  ]^e])])er.  two  pounds  of  ])ea-saus;ige, 
four  ]M)unds  of  sugar,  Ix^sidcs  a  rc-ei've  l)ag  with  twenty  ])oun4s 
of  bread.     Boiled  beef  w;!s  taken  as  food  for  the  dogs,  and  it 


202  THE   GREAT    WIHTK  yOllTII 

was  hoped  that  game  would  sup])leincnt  tho  ucucral  rations. 

From  ahiKjst  the  first  hour  violent  blizzard.-,  intense 
cold,  and  the  uneven  condition  of  the  icc'  made  the  journey 
disheartening  and  laborious.  15}'  .V])ril  1  the_\-  penetrated  by 
Cape  Ilausa  int(j  a  ne\vl\-  discovered  passage,  covered  with 
heavy  ice,  t(.)  which  Payer  gave  the  name  of  Austria  Sound. 
B\'  the  7th  of  April  they  advanced  into  Piawiinson  Sound, 
over  a  track  between  hummocks  some  of  wliich  were  forty 
feet  high,  the  depressi(jus  Ijotween  them  filled  with  de(_'i)  la}'ers 
of  snow. 

The  noble  mountain  forms  and  mighty  glaciers  of  Crown 
Prince  Piudolf  Land  could  be  seen  in  the  distance,  i^u'suing 
their  course  in  a  \\'estei'ly  direction  they  reache(l  II(_)h(adohe 
I-land  the  next  da\',  where  the  expedition  encampe(l.  and  the 
party  di\'ided.  the  smaller  continuing  to  the  north  f(jr  tlie 
puri)ose  (jf  examining  the  glaeicrs  (jf  Piudolf  Land. 

A  disaster  occurred  the  first  day  after  their  de])arture  which 
nearly  ])roved  fatal  to  the  success  (jf  thcii-  undertal^ing. 
While  crossing  the  Middendorf  glacier,  the  snow  gave  way 
beneath  a  sledge,  which  ])reci])it  atetl  one  of  the  men.  Zanino- 
vich  by  name,  the  dogs  and  >le(lg('.  into  a  cre\'as.-e.  ■"l-Vom 
an  unknown  de])th,"  writes  Payer,  "I  heai'd  a  man"-  \'oice 
mingled  with  the  howling  o{  dogs.  \\\  this  was  lhe  im])re.-sion 
of  a  moment,  while  I  felt  my><'lf  dragii'cil  backwards  by  the 
ro])e.  Staii,'U'('rinii'  back.  an<l  seeing  the  dark  aby>>  l)(-n(aih 
me.  I  could  not  doubt  ihat  I  ,-hould  be  ])reci])i;at ed  into  it  {he 
next  in-tant.  A  wonderful  Prox'idencc  arre-ted  t!ic  fall  of 
the  >le(l^-c:  at  a  d<'i)th  of  about  thirty  feet  it  -nick  fa<t 
lictwccn  the  -ide- of  ihc  crc\-a--c.  just  a-  I  wa-  brinu' di'aiiLi'ed 
to  ihc  cdnv  of  the  aIi\"->  by  it-  weiu-llt.  'b!ic  -JimIlic  ka\-ing 
jammed  it -elf  in.  I  Ia>'  on  my  .-tomach  clo-e  In  i  !;c  ;,wtul  brink, 
the  rope  which  altachiMl  me  to  the  -Icdti'e  ti^lifly  -1  rained,  and 
ciitiinLi-  di-c])  into  the  -now.  I'lw  -ituatinn  wa-  all  tin-  tii'irc 
dreadful    a.-    I.    the    only    per-on    pn-eiit    acrii-t :  mied    to    thf 


PAY  Eli's   SLKl)(;i':  JoniNKYH  2*»3 

(lan.n'ors  of  <2;l:i('i('i's.  lay  1h(>r(^  unable^  to  stir.  When  I  cried 
down  to  Za!iino\'icli  that  I  would  cut  the  I'ope,  he  iini)lored  me 
not  to  do  it,  for  if  I  (hd,  the  sled<;-e  woiihl  turn  over,  and  he 
would  ))(>  killed.  For  a  time  I  lay  (juiet,  considering  what  was 
to  be  done.  I^y  and  by  it  flashed  into  my  memory,  how  I  and 
my  guide  had  once  falkni  down  a  wall  of  ice  in  the  Irtler 
Mountains,  eight  hun(lr(>d  feet  high,  and  had  escaj^cnl.  This 
inspires  I  mr  with  confidence  to  venture  on  a  rescue,  desperate 
as  it  seemed  und(>r  the  circumstancc^s.  Orel  had  now  come 
u]),  and,  although  \\c  had  never  been  on  a  giaci(>r  before,  this 
gallant  ofHccM'  daunt It^sly  advanccnl  to  tlu>  edge  of  the  cre- 
vass(\  and  laying  himself  on  his  stomach,  looked  down  into 
tlu>  abyss,  au.d  cried  to  me,  'Zaninovich  is  lying  on  a  ledge 
of  snow  in  the  crevasse,  with  ])r(>cipiccs  all  round  him  and  the 
dogs  are  still  attached  to  the  traces  of  the  sledge,  which  has 
stuck  fa_st.'  I  called  to  him  to  throw  me  his  knife,  which  \\v 
did  with  such  dexterity,  that  I  was  able  to  lay  hold  of  it 
without  diliiculty,  and  as  the  only  means  of  rescue,  I  severed 
the  tract'  which  was  fastened  round  my  waist.  The  sledge 
made  a  shoi't  turn,  and  then  stuck  fast  again.  I  immediately 
s]n'an.g  to  my  feet,  dr(nv  off  my  canvas  boots,  and  sprang  over 
tlie  crevasse,  which  was  about  ten  feet  broad.  I  now  caught 
sight  (tf  Zaninovich  and  the  dogs,  and  shouted  to  him,  that 
I  would  run  back  to  riohenlohe  Island  to  fetch  men  and  ropes 
for  liis  rescue,  and  that  I'cscued  he  would  be.  if  he  could  con- 
ti'!\'e  for  four  hours  to  keep  himself  from  b(>ing  f]-oz(>n.  I  heard 
lii-  ansAN'cr  :  "fate,  Signore,  fate  ])ure!'  and  tlu^n  Orel  and 
1  disap])ea,red.  Heedless  of  the  cri^vasses  which  lay  in  oiu' 
path,  or  of  the  bears  which  might  attack  us,  we  ran  down  the 
glacier  back  to  Cape  Schrott(M-,  six  miU^s  off.  Only  one 
thought  ])ossess(nl  us  —  the  rescue  of  Zaninovich,  tlu^  jewel 
and  ])ri(le  of  our  i)ai'ty,  and  the  I'ecoA'cry  of  our  invaluable 
stoi'(>  of  pro\'isions,  and  of  the  book  containing  our  journals, 
^\'hic]l,    if   lost,   could   ne\-er   l)e   re])lace(l.     Hut     ex'iai     ai)art 


21 '4 


THE   on  EAT    WHITE   yOTHTI 


from  my  pfrsoiial  fcclin^u  for  Zaiiinovifli,  I  kociily  fflt  the  rc- 
l)i'oach('>  lo  which  I  >houl(l  Itc  ('X])o>c<l  ol'  iucautiou>  trav(-lh;i,L!,' 
oil  jilacici's  :  and  it  ,u'av('  uic  no  c()mf()rt  to  thiiilc  that  my 
l)r('\ious  cxiXTiciiccs  in  this  l^ind  of  tra\'cllin<i'  (jvcf  the  (iiacicrs 
t)f  ( ir<'<-nlan'l  a])])('are(l  to  ju>tily  m\'  ])r(jc('C(linii-.  Stuni;' 
with  tlioc  refit'Clions,  I  ])rc.->(Ml  on  at  the  toj)  of  my  -])c('(h 
l('a\'ina:  Orel  far  behind  me.  Bathed  with  pei'spira-tion,  I 
threw  off  my  Ijird— kin  <i,arments,  my  licjots.  my  ,iilove,-,  and 
my  >hawl,  and  ran  in  m}'  -toekings  thr(ju<ili  the  deej)  >now. 
After  ])as.--in,u-the  lat)\'rinth  (jf  icel)or,tis  I  saw  tlie  ]'(jck\'  jjyi'anhd 
of  ('a])e  Sehrottei'  hefore  me  in  the  <listance.  Idie  -ucce-s 
(A  my  \-enture  dependi'd  on  the  w(nitlier.  If  snow  (h'i\'in<j; 
should  >ei  in.  and  the  f(j<M])rints  shoiild  Ije  ohhterated.  it 
would  he  imi)o>sihle  U)  find  II(jlienlohe  Island.  All  around 
me  it  was  fearfully  hjnely.  l-^nc(jm])a>-ed  hy  <ilaeiers,  I  was 
ah.-olutely  alone.  At  last  I  saw  Klotz  emerji'e  from  l)ehind 
an  icdieru'  at  sfjme  distance  off,  a.nd  thouuii  I  continiie(l  to 
shout  his  name  till  I  almost  reached  him,  1  failed  t(.)  rou-e 
him  fi'om  hi-  usual  reverie.  When  at  last  he  >aw  mehrealh- 
le--ly  pu.-liinLi'  ot!,  scarcely  clothed,  and  constantl\'  calliii,u'. 
hi-  -ack  .-lipped  fi'om  his  Ijack.  and  he  s1are(l  at  me  as  if  he  had 
lo-t  hi-  -en-es.  Wdien  the  har<ly  son  of  the  mountains 
came  to  umler-tand  that  Zaninovich  witli  the  -Icdu'e  was 
hui'ieil  ill  llic  cre\"a--e.  he  he^ali  t(J  Wee]),  in  lii-  .-implicily  nl 
heai'i  lakinu'  the  Maine  of  whal  had  ha])])ened  on  ihm<cjf. 
He  wa>  -o  atiitaleil  and  di^turheil,  that  I  made  him  i)romi-e 
ttiat  lie  Would  do  him-clf  no  mi-chief,  and  tlu'ii.  jeax-iim'  liim 
to  hi-  mooily  silence.  I  ran  on  auain  towards  the  i-laiid.  It 
-ecmeij  a-  ii'  1  .-lioiild  iie\'er  reach  (  'ajie  .^chi'olter  :  wiili  head 
hcni  down  I  ti'udii'eil  on,  couiitinsi.'  m\'  -tcp-  throiiLih  i!ie  deep 
-now  :  when  1  rai-ed  ii  aLi'ain.  aftej-  a  linle  lime,  ii  w,---  alwa\'s 
It;e  -atiie  li!ac!x  -jiol  1  hat  1  -aw  on  the  di-1ant  hori/on.  At 
la-!  I  came  near  it,  -aw  the  tent,  -aw  -onie  diark  -jiot-  creep 
out   of  it,  -aw  them  uallier  toLiether,  and  then  run  (lown  the 


CAl'E  FLIGELY  295 

sno\v-sl()]»f\  Those  \V(M-(^  tho  friends  we  h;ul  left  behind.  A 
few  words  of  exi)lau;ition,  with  an  exlioi'tation  to  abstain  from 
idle  lamentations,  wei'e  enou<;'h.  They  at  onc(^  detached  a 
second  rojx'  from  the  large  sledge,  and  got  hold  of  a  long 
t(>nt-i)()le.  Meanwhile  I  liad  rushed  upon  the  cooking- 
machine,  (luickly  melted  a  little  snow  to  ([uench  my  raging 
tlhrst.  and  then  we  all  s(>t  off  again  —  Haller,  Sussick, 
Lnkinovich,  and  myself — to  the  Aliddendorf  glacier.  Tent 
and  ])rovisions  were  left  unwatched  ;  we  ran  back  for  three 
hours  and  a  half  :  fears  for  Zaninovicli  gave  such  wings  to  my 
steps,  that  my  companions  were  scarcely  aide  to  keep  uj)  with 
m(\  J-]ver  and  anon,  I  had  to  stop  to  drink  some  I'um.  At 
the  outset,  we  met  Orel,  and  rather  later  Klotz,  both  making 
for  ('a|)e  Sclu'otter,  Ivlotz  to  remain  Ix'hind  th(M-e,  and  ()r(d 
to  retui-n  with  us  at  once  to  Middendorf  glacier.  When  W(» 
came  iuncnig  th(^  icebergs  under  C'aj'x-  Ilabermann,  I  picked 
\i\).  one  by  one,  the  clothes  I  had  thrtjwn  away.  Reaching 
the  glacier,  we  tic'd  ourselves  together  with  a  r(.)pe.  Cloing 
before  th(>  rest  1  a])])roached  with  beating  heart  the  ])lace, 
where  the  sledge  liad  (lisap])eare(l  four  hours  and  a  half  ago. 
A  dark  abyss  yawned  b(>for(^  us  :  not  a  sound  issue(l  from  its 
di']itli-^,  n.ot  even  when  I  lay  on  the  ground  and  shouted.  At 
last  I  heard  tlie  whining  of  a  dog.  and  then  an  unintelligible 
answer  fi'(»m  Zaninox'ich.  Ilaller  was  (juickly  let  d(nvn  by  a 
r()])e  :  he  found  him  >till  living,  but  almost  fi'ozen,  on  a  IcMlge 
of  >U()\\  fort\'  feet  down  the  creva-se.  Fastening  himself 
and  Zaii!Uo\'ie!i  to  the  ro])(>,  they  were  drawn  up  after  great 
exertion,  .v  >torm  (if  u-rcetings  salute*!  Zaninovicli.  stiff  and 
s])eern!c>s  though  he  was.  when  he  ai)peare(l  on  the  surfaee 
of  the  glaciei'.  I  iH'rd  not  add  that  \\v  gave  him  some  rum 
to  -timuhite  hi>  vital  energies.  It  was  a  noble  proof  how  duty 
and  discipline  a-~ei't  t  hcm-i'h-e^.  ('\-en  in  <\n-\\  situations,  that 
the  fir-t  woi'^i  ijf  thi<  >:;ilor.  >a\"ed  from  bcinLi'  frozen  to  de;it!i. 
wa.-  iKJt  a  comjjlaint.  but  thank<.  accom])anied  with  a  request 


200  THE   CHEAT    WHITE  yoUTIf 

that  I  would  ])ar(l()n  him  if  h('.  in  order  To  save  liiiii-clf  from 
bciii^'  frozen,  had  x-enturcd  To  (h'ink  a  ])orTi(.)n  of  Tlic  rum, 
which  had  fallen  down  in  iTs  eas(>  with  the  sled<ic  to  hi^  ledjic 
of  .-now.  Haller  au'ain  descended,  and  fasTened  The  (hjgs  To  a 
roi)(\  The  ch-ver  animals  had  freed  Themselv(-s  frtjni  their 
tracer  in  some  inex])licahle  way,  and  had  s])run<i'  To  a  narrow 
ledt>e.  where  Hallei'  found  Them,  close  Tc)  wh('rc  Zanino\'ich 
had.  lain.  It  was  a>toni<hin,u'  how  (juickly  thc'V  discerned  {he 
daii.Licr  of  the  position  anil  how  ureal  wn-  their  confidence  in  us. 
They  had  >le])t  the  whole  time,  a-  Zanino\'ich  afterward-  to!. I 
us.  and  he  had  carefully  avoideil  touchin^u'  Them  lest  t!ie\' 
should  fall  down  dee])er  into  The  ^.thyss.  We  rh'ew  them  up 
witli  some  difficuby,  ami  They  fsavc  ('X])i'(  s-ion  to  Their  joy, 
fir>t  l>y  rollinu.'  Themselves  vi,uT)r(^u>l\'  in  Tin-  sru^w,  and  Then 
hy  lifd^in.ii  (jur  hand.-.  W'c  then  i-ai-ed  Thdh'r  hy  the  ro])e 
sonic  Ten  feeT  hisi'lier  Than  tlie  ledu'e  (in  which  Zanino\'ich  had 
lain.  >o  ThaT  he  mi.ii'liT  he  ahle  To  cut  The  i'oi>e<  which  fa-tened 
the  loading  of  The  firmly  \\-edo'ed  in  -1(m1u'c.  .Vt  Thi-  moiiKuT, 
( >rel  arri\'e(l.  and  wiTh  his  h(-l])  we  raised  one  hy  one  the 
articles  with  which  the  sledue  was  loadeil.  It  wa-  tf'U  o'clock 
li(-fore  we  were  co;i\-ince(l  thaT  ^ve  had  lo-T  nothing'  (jf  any 
importance  in  The  cre\-a.<-e."" 

■  (  )ii  A])i'il  12,  ]S74,  Pa\'er  and  his  co!n])anion,<  aTTaiiied 
theii-  !arttie.-T  north,  ^2"  .V  liorTh  latitude  :  on  t!i;it  day  they 
stood  on  a  ])romoiilory  ahout  one  thou-aiid  h-et  hiuh,  to  which 
the  name  of  (  'ajie   j-'liuejy  wa-  ,ui\'en. 

■'iiudoh'  Land  -till  -treiehe(j  ill  a  nort lieast erjy  direction."' 
wi'iti'-  hayer,  "toward-  a  <':i])e,  ('ape  Sln^rard  (»~;,(irne— - 
though  it  Wa-  im])o--ihle  to  (jetei'mine  it>  furtJMi'  eour-e  and 
conne.'t  ion." 

In  the  di-tanl  north,  lilue  mountain  ranue-  indicated 
ma--e-  of  l;md   and  to  the^c  the  name-  nf   KIiill  (  )-car  Land 

•and    Pet  er|||;ii|!|     P;nid    were    lii\-rli.        ■■Pl-oud.iy    W^    ;)i;Ulted    the 

Au-t  ro-nuni!;iri:in  l!a'i."  eontinue,-  l',a\-ei',   "foi-  tiie  hr-1    time 


HOME  21)7 

ill  tlio  liigh  Xorth.  A  document  we  enclosed  in  a  bottle  and 
d(>])osited  in  a  ck^ft  of  rock."  The  return  to  the  ship  was  ren- 
d(^re(l  doubly  hazardous  by  the  insecurity  of  the  ice,  and  tlie 
increasing  water  holes. 

The  results  of  the  journey  may  be  summed  up  as  follows  — 
Payer  foimd  the  newly  discovered  country  to  be  about  the 
size  of  Spitzl:)ergen,  and  consisting  of  two  large  masses, 
A\llcz(>k  Land  to  the  East,  and  Zicliy  Land  to  the  west,  inter- 
sected by  numerous  fjords  and  skirted  by  many  islands. 
Austria  Sound  divid(\s  the  two  main  masses  of  land  and  extends 
to  82°  X.,  where  Rawlinson  Sound  forks  off  to  the  nortlu^ast. 
The  mountains  reach  a  height  of  two  thousand  to  three  thou- 
saufl  feet  ;  glaciers  abound  in  the  ravines,  and  even  the  islands 
are  cov(H-ed  with  a  glacial  ca]). 

A  third  sledge  journcn'  was  undertaken  by  Lieutenant 
Payer  on  April  29  to  explore  a  large  island  named  after 
^vPClintock. 

The  momentous  day,  Alay  20,  on  which  the  TcgetthaJJ  was 
abandoncnl,  came  at  last.  Three  boats  wer(^  selectcnl  b}'  the 
return  expedition.  Two  of  tlu^se  w(n'e  Xorwc^gian  whale- 
boats,  twenty  feet  long,  five  fe(^t  broad,  and  two  and  one-half 
deep  :  Tlu^  tlnrd  was  souK^what  smaller. 

The  hummocks  rendei-ed  iho'ir  advance^  discouragingly 
slo^v.  It  was  necessary  to  ])ass  ovov  th(>  same  short  distance 
numy  timers  in  t\\v  com-se  of  a  day,  and  after  two  montlis  of 
ind(^scril)^d)l(>  (efforts,  \ho  distance^  r(\ache(l  ])y  thv  ]^arty  was 
not  more  than  tv.'o  (^icrman  mil(\s.  An  occasional  l^ear, 
sliot  by  tlu^  UKMi,  I'cstorc^d  t!u^  waning  strength  and  courag(\ 
but  not  until  August  bt,  did  tlu^  wc^lcome  sound  of  the  o])en 
w:it(>r  r(>acli  thv'w  (»ars.  and  in  77°  40'  north  latitude,  th(\v 
launched  th(Mr  boats.  Xin(^  da\'s  later  they  ^\'(a■e  picked  u])  by 
Russian  fishermen  olT  the  coast  of  Xova  Z(nnbla. 


C'HAPTEJ^    X\'l 


B'lron  A.  ]].  xnn  X()ril"n-kj''il(l. — First  vnyaszc  iSoS. — Accoiii- 
]);uii('s  suc'cc'lina;  Swn li-!i  cxpfMlif-Kjii.-.  — SpitzhcrKcii.  --\'()yage 
(jf  Snjia.  -  ls(;s.  —  \()r(lc]i>ki()'ifr>  joiu'iify  tn  (;i-c<'iilaii(l. — 
\'()ya,Li''' of  1  he /•'o///^///.  -Atlcni])!  To  j'cafli  tlif  Pole  liy  I'ciiulccr 
.-li-'iav.  —  rn.'-xjM'ftcil  (ii-c()urau"ciiiciil>  and  (li.-a>ior>.  —  A'ovacc 
of  llic  Prnri  n.  —  1^7").  — l"hc  Kai'a  >'~^ca. —- Journey  r(-])cat('(l  the 
following  year.  —  In  tin'  Y im  r.  —  X'o^-agc  of  the  V(<ja. 

Tin:  caroci'  of  P)aroii  A.  I'],  voii  XordoiiskjoM  is  ono  of  tho 
]n()<t  <li.-tiiiuuisli('d  in  Arctic  history.  .l)orn  in  flclsina-foi's, 
I'inhuii!.  X'o\-o!iil)Ci-  IS,  \)<:\2.  ho  learned  at  an  early  aue  the 
thrill  of  ad\'entiire  and  the  joys  of  research  while  accoin]")an}'- 
inu,-  hi>  di,-i  inii'iii-hed  fatlior  on  hi-  niineralouical  tours  \\\  tlu* 
Pi'al  ^Fountains.  After  .u'l'aduatinu,'  at  Hel^iu'ilors  in  PS.l?, 
Xoi'den-lvj(")ld  wa.-  hiin.-elf  a])])ointed  a  j)roh'->oi'  of  inineralou'y 
at  Stockholm.  P)aj'oii  X'orden-kj'dd'^  scientific  interest  in 
])olar  I'o-earch  l)eii,'ari  as  early  a-  hS,")S.  Avhoii  lie  af'coin))anied 
(  Itlo  To, ■ell,  chief  aeoloi;i-t  of  Sweden,  who  .-ailed  on  the  Frith- 
i'(ij)  i'or  Soit /I  ler'ien.  Thi-  wa-  the  Pe.uinninu'  of  a  -eries  of 
Swei!i-h  exj)e(jit  ion-,  that  co\'ei'e(l  a  (jUaiter  of  a  centur\'.  in 
Avhich  Xoi-den-kjrild  hadt  a  ino-t  vahiahle  and  acti\a'  part. 
Tw'M  niMioh-  were  .-pent  on  the  we-t  coa-t  of  S])it  zheru'en, 
in  dred'j.inii'  i!m'  -ea.  -tudx'inu'  the  landi  foi'niation  and  its 
1  ,<  it  anical   au'  I  uiacia!  condini  m-. 

.Xord' 'n-kirild"-  i-hief  cimt  .riliut  ion  to  .-cience  on  tlii<  expi'di- 
tii)M  \\',-i-  '.'■•'■  di-i'(  )\'ery  of  a  fo--il-i  leal'iu'j,'  !'ock  Hi  carlioll- 
ifet'ou--  lorniat  i(  iii<. 

.\noti;cr  p'Urney  li(-yond  the  .\rctic  circle  wa-  undertaken 
I  iv  To'vij  in  j-^'i  I.  foi  a  nioiv  t  ill  ii'ouiii!  -in'\"(>'  and  -tud\'  of  t  he 
n:itiiral  id-;ory  and  ueoiouy  of  S[)it /hei'ucn.      (  )n  t  hi.<  j(.>urney, 

2HS 


sprrzBERGEjy  209 

'I\)r(41,  XordcMiskjokl  and  P(>torscn  lUKkM'took  a  boat  journey 
to  JIink)i)en  Strait  and  kitor  visitcnl  the  coast  of  Xorth(^a.st 
Lanck  Passing  Xorth  (,'a]M^  and  visiting  Sevini  Lskmds, 
they  reached  their  farthest,  80°  42'  X'.,  xVugust  o,  at  Phipps 
Iskimk 

Prince  Oscar  Land  was  reached  a  week  later,  and  from  a 
mountain  two  thousand  feet  high  near  Ca]x;  A\'re(k>,  two 
islands  coukl  be  secai  in  the  (hstance,  to  which  were  given  the 
names  of  (,'hark^s  XLI  and  Drabanten.  Pushing  their  way 
east  of  (_\ipe  l^kiten,  tlic  ice  conthtions  forced  tlieir  r(^turn. 

In  1863  Xordenskjold  again  visited  Spitzbc^rgen,  and  again 
in  18(54,  when  he  was  ])kiced  in  charge  of  the  SwecUsli  expedi- 
tion, and  was  accompanied  by  Duner  and  INIalmgren.  In  a 
smaU  boat  of  twenty-six  tons  burck^n,  and  ])rovisi()n(Hl  for  l(\<s 
than  six  months,  they  entered  Safe  fIarf)or  at  the  entrance  of 
the  magnificent  Ice  Fiord.  Ahcv  rounchng  the  s()uth(>rn  cape 
of  S])itzbergen,  tli(^y  entered  Store  Fiord,  and  visitcnl  Edges 
Land  and  L'arentz  Land.  After  entcM'ing  Ilelis  Sound  and 
asceiKhng  White  r\Iountain,  they  again  roun(k'd  Soutli  Cape 
with  the  intention  of  folk)wing  the  W(\st  coast  as  fai'  north  as 
the  ice  would  ])ermit.  On  this  journey  whik^  off  Charles 
Foreland,  they  r(\scued  somc^  shipwr(H'k(Ml  sailors,  whose  v(>s- 
s(4s  had  become  beset  off  Seven  Islands,  and  who  had  jour- 
ne\'ed  in  open  boats  some  two  hundred  miles  in  fourtcnm 
days.  An  inunediat(>  return,  was  thus  made  n(H'(^ssary,  but 
the  I'csults  of  tlie  sununer's  work  was  a  ma]),  executed  by  Xor- 
deiiskjr)ld  and  Duner,  which  delineates  Spitzbergen  with 
gr(>at  accui'acN'. 

In  1St)8  the  Swcdisli  (^x])edition  had  for  its  ()])jective  ])oint 
tlu^  Pole.  4'hc  Sojla  was  chosen  for  this  })ur])ose  and  com- 
mandcMl  by  Captain  (Count)  F.  W.  von  OtAo]\  with  Xor- 
dcnskj()ld  as  scicaitihc  chi(4.  Smeerenberg  l'>ay  at  tlu^  north 
end  of  SiMtz])ergcn  was  decided  uj)on  as  a  ])lace  of  rt^ndiwous 
and  from  tliis  point  the  Sojia  made  two  attem})ts  for  a  high 


:!U0 


THE    (iUKAT    nillTE  yOUTII 


northiii.ii'.  In  the  second  slie  "\\'a>  rewarded  liy  reacliino;  on 
>ei)lenil)er  1!).  ISIIS,  sT  42'  X..  and  M''  oO'  K..  at  that  time 
the  t'ai'the>t  n(jrtli  attained  by  any  >\\\\).  A  tliird  attempt 
to  ])ush  the  Siilid  throu,iih  the  ini])enetraljle  pack  I'esulted  in 
her  heconiin.u'  (Usahled  and  neces>itated  the  retin-n  of  the 
ex])(-ihtion  to  S\ve(h'n. 

In  ls7()  X(jr(lenskj()ld  made  a  journey  to  Tlreenland.  ac- 
C'om])anied  1)\"  Dr.  Ber,u<i:r(-n.  the  note(l  ])rofes.-or  of  h(jtany  at 
Lun(L  The  object  of  the  exi^cfUtion  wa>  to  ])enetrate  the 
tm(-\])lored  interior  from  a  jioint  at  the  northern  arm  of  a 
dee})  inlet  calle(l  Auhut.-i\'ik  Fiorth  >ome  s!xt\"  nhle-  -oiith  of 
the  (nst'ha!\<i,in^<i;  uiacicr  ;it  Jakol  i-ha^'en  and  two  iuim.h'ed 
and  fort}'  north  of  tlie  glacier  at  C;o(hhaab.  He  c(^mmenced 
his  inhmd  journey  on  tin'  lOtii  of  July.  hje-ide>  Dr.  Tjero'o-fcu, 
he  wa>  a.--i>ted  liy  two  Eskimo-.  l)iU"  tlie  (h-liearteniiiii; 
<lif[ieulti('-  ^)i  trav('l  over  tlie  inland  ice  of  (Ireenland.  cau-ed 
by  the  >low  m(A'(-ment  of  the  <i'lacier>.  whicli  produce  cha-nis 
and  cleft-  of  alnujst  bottomless  depth,  .-oon  ca.u.-eil  the  ])ai't\' 
to  abandon  their  >l(>(l!j.(',  and  latei'  the  two  nati-\-e>  rt-fu-eil 
t(j  ])r()ceed.  Undaunted  by  tlu'ir  de-ertion.  Xoi'deii.-~kj(")ld 
and  Dr.  P)er,u-ii-i'en  continued  their  ('Xphirat ion-  alnue  -awA 
aih'anec(l  thirty  mile<  o\'er  the  p.'laciers  to  a  hei'zlu  of  twenty- 
two  huiidreil  fe('t  abii)\-e  the  <ea.  'hi(-  of  the  nio~i  im])ortant 
result  <  of  this  I'emarkable  joiu'iiey  was  the  di.-co\'ei'y  of  two 
meteorite-,  the  laru'e-t  e\-er  known. 

In  I'^Tl  Xorden-kjiiM  auain  -et  out  for  Si)itzb('r,u'eii.  IIi< 
objcci  wa-  to  reach  the  Pole  by  reindei-r— led!j.iiiu-.  Sailinii' 
ill  the  -liij)  I'nll.i  ni  commanded  by  Licut'-nant  I'alander  of 
the  SweiTHh  X'a^'}'.  and  accompanied  liy  two  coii\-oy<,  the 
(i'hi^l,,,  and  ()n!:h  .\<ln,n.  \\n-y  reached  .Mu--el  F.ay,  ai'd  tliere 
e-t abji-ljci  1  wintei'  (|Uai'ler-.  In  an  attemipt  to  I'eiui'ii.  the 
conx'oy-  \\-ere  be,-et   ill  a  \'ioleii;    -torm.      Fnable  to  extj-icate 

t!ieiii^el\-e~:    ;,ilil    Hot     beiliLi    ]  )ro\-i-~iol  led    for^'illter    1  he    (a'CW-. 

iiiiiii! 'criiiLL'  tor' \--i  lii'ee  nii'ii,  were  -iiildiaily  forced  u])ou 
.\ordeii-kioli  I's  l)ariy  for  I'uel  and  -iipplies. 


VOVA(,f-:  OF  THE  "  PniJIEM"  3ol 

To  (li.stril)Ut('  food  int(Mi(l(Ml  for  twenty-four  ])('rsotis  ;imoii<i; 
a  ]);irty  of  sixt}'-s('\-cn  was  u  serious  ])rol)leni,  and  was  only 
aceomplislied  \)y  reduciu<i;  tlie  rations  of  all  one-third.  Ilai'dly 
had  this  blow  fallen  ujxju  th(>  pros])ects  of  the  e\pe<lition, 
when  they  were  visited  hy  fc^ur  men  with  the  overwhehnin,ii- 
news  tliat  six  walrus-vessels  had  been  frozen  in  at  Point  drc}' 
and  ('ap(>  \\'el('onie.  I^y  hunting  it  was  hoped  that  the  fift\'- 
('igiit  unfortunate  m(ni  would  manage^  to  avoid  starvation 
unlil  the  first  of  De('enil,)er,  after  that  their  only  salvation 
rested  with  the  g(>nei'osity  of  Xoi"denski(")]d.  The  only  relief 
to  th{>  a])p;dlin<>;  situation  was  in  the  fact  that  a  Swedish 
colony  had  that  year  woi'ked  a  i)hos])liatic  <le))(jsit  at  ("ape 
Thorsden.  Ice  Fiord,  and  the  manager  after  abandoning  the 
^^'()rk  had  I'cturned  to  Norway,  leaving  l)eliind  him  a  consider- 
able amount  of  stores.  ( 'a])e  Thorsden  was  distant  two 
hundi'ed  miles,  but  seventeen  of  the  wah-us-hunters  deter- 
mined to  undertake  it.  These  men  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
dei)ot,  where  an  ;nn])le  sup})ly  of  all  the  necessaries  of  life 
awaited  t liem  —  including  a  house,  fuel.  ]:)reserve(l  and  dried 
vegetables,  and,  fr{>sli  i)otatoes.  riuddling  in  one  room,  living 
on  <alt-beef  and  ))ork,  ratlier  than  go  to  the  exei'liou  of  avail- 
ing Them-el\'(\<  of  tti(^  am])Ie  diet  at  hand  —  these  men  were; 
attacked  1)>'  -cui'vy  and  not  one  survived  the  rigours  of  the 
winter.  At  Mu.<<el  I^ay  the  food  condition-  wi're  de])loi'able. 
but  wer'c  eked  out  by  tli(>  utilization  of  I'eindeei'  moss  mixed 
with  rye  flour,  wliich  ]iroduced  a  \-er\'  bitter  bread. 

Thi<  s;;crifice  of  th(^  food  of  the  reindeer  gi'eatly  cri])])!ed 
Xofdeii,~kj()ld"s  cherished  pUuis  for  \n<  s])i'ing  joui'ne\'<,  and 
to  add  t(;  hi-  di>a])pointments.  the  i'einde<'r  them<el\-e-  wei'e 
cai'ele-sly  alloweil  to  escape  by  the  LaiJjts  dui'ing  a  \'iol''nt 
snow->torm.  A  fortunate  opening  of  the  ice  early  in  No- 
vi'iubei-  allowed  two  \-essels  to  e-ca]")e,  and  rhe-e  \-('<-el-  took 
tlie  ci'ew.v  of  the  four  others. 

Tlie  Arctic  night   was  passe(l  by  the  ex])ediiion  in  making 


THE   CHEAT    WHITE  yoimi 


scientific  r)!).<f'rvat ion.--.  (lr('(l,a,in<i:  under  tlic  ice.  anrl  in  mental 
and  t'ii>'-ical  exefcise.  In  .-j)ite  of  every  i)recaiition  against 
tlie  di'eade<l  foe,  scur\'\'  Itroke  out  among  the  men,  but  was 
overcome  under  a  strict  diet  reiiime. 

In  >])ite  oi'  the  disastrous  los.-  of  his  reindeer  and  the  de- 
pleted -tate  of  his  stores  an<l  provisions,  Xordenskjold  at- 
teni])te.l  hi-  noi'tlieru  journey  the  h^howing  s])rinu'.  At 
Se\-en  L-laiids  he  v.'as  sto])ped  h}'  the  ice,  hut  in  s])ite  of  this 
di<ai)];e)!ntnient  he  concluded  to  visit  X(;rth  i:^ast  Land  h)r 
the  ])ui'j)o>e  of  ii;eogra])hical  I'cseari'li.  A  jotu'iK'y  oi  live  da\'s 
o\-er  imi)a~<aljle  hununocks  resulted  in  hi.>  making  Cajjc 
Platen      -  and  later  ( )tter  hdaud. 

I'he  incre;i>f'd  dangei-s  of  trav('l  and  the  })r('sence  of  water 
holes  deterniine(l  him  to  ahaiidcju  the  coa.-t  route  and  strike 
acro-s  the  inlaiidi  ice.  Thi>  arduou-  journex'  was  over  haril- 
l)acked  hlindinu'  while  .-ikjw.  "glazed  and  ])oli-hed,"'  he  wi'ite<, 
"so  that  we  miuht  have  thought  ourseh'c-  to  he  advancing 
o\'er  an  un-urj)a>>;d)ly  faultless  and  -jjo'Ic-s  fiooi'  of  whii<' 
niarMi'."  l-iiinding -tf)rins.  hlizzards,  oi'  ice  fog-,  niai'ked  e;ich 
,-tep  ()\  tlieii'  fifteen  day.--'  journey.  Snow  liri(Ju'es  co\-ei'ed 
t  re.'icherou-  chasms,  -ome  (.if  v/hicli  we>-c  forty  f'^et  in  de])l}i. 
On  .)une  l').  t  hey  de.-cended  into  IliuloiX'U  Sti'.iil  at  \\';d;!en- 
hei'U'  l)ay.  and  finall\'  the  party  reached  Mus-rj  litiy  ;ifter 
an  a!  i-'tc-e  of  -ix1  y  da>'.-. 

In  tiic  e;ii'ly  >um!ii('r.  they  had  the  gooij  h)i'1une  1o  he 
\'i-ited  hy  Air.  Lcioh  Smith,  the  \-eter:in  Arctic  nax-iu'ator 
and  .-cjciihi-t .  in  hi-  j)ri\';iie  _v-ac!ii  iJiunit.  tlirouiih  who,-e 
U'(iiero-!ty  the  expciiiiion  Was  lilierai]\'  >U))])!i('d  with  fi'e>h 
j)ro'.'i-io'i-,  wild!  remo\-(-d  1  he  pr-ni  linu:  anxiet  y  lor  t  hi-  future. 

In  I'^T")  \ord.'ii-f.,j("iid  tiu'iied,  hi,-  ;tt'enlion  to  the  ]")o-<i- 
I  'il!  I  y  oi  U':  x-m.-ihuu:  t  he  -c;--  ;il(Mm  l  he  noi-i  hern  coa-t  of  Sihei-i;). 
Thi-  rou'i'  !';id  ;ih'c,-idy  in  en  opi'ii^'d  1  >>'  O.-tpt.-iin  Win-ojus 
oi'  >M:!d''r!:ii;'i.  who  in  I  s7  1 .  !  ^7o.  .-Uid  l^T'i.  ope]|.-(|  the  w;iy 
to  t  rade  h'i'i  wi'i  n  JJiropc  ;Uid  the  mout  h  oi  t  lie  '^  eni.-ei  hiiver. 


VOVAdH  OF  Till':  '•  PUOl-EX"'  -lO-l 

Xor(l(^askj()l(l  sailed  from  Tronisoc^,  in  tho  Proren,  Juno,  187"), 
aiul  .suc't'c'ssfully  iuivi.u;atin,i!;  the  Kara  Sea  n^aehed  an  exeelleut 
har])our  on  the  eastern  side  of  th(>  nioutli  of  the  \'enisei,  to 
which  he  gave  the  nani(>  of  Port  Dickson,  in  honour  of  Air. 
Oscar  Dickson,  of  (lothenburg,  for  many  3'ears  the  hl:)cral 
sui)])orter  of  the  Swcnhsh  ex])e(htions. 

To  (l(>monstrate  that  the  Kara  S(>a  had  not  been  more  free 
of  ice  tlian  usual  in  the  summc^r  of  1S7")  and  that  the  route 
would  be  practicable  another  season,  Xordenskjold  re})eated 
his  voyage  in  the  Yiner  the  following  3'ear. 

His  long  Arctic  ex{)eri(>nc(>  had  by  this  time  convinced  him 
of  the  f(\isibility  of  the  north(^ast  ])assage.  To  demonstrate 
this  conviction,  he  cmlisted  the  ])atronag(^  of  the  king  of 
Sw'tMlen,  !Mr.  Oscar  Dickson,  and  AFr.  Sil)iriakoff,  a  Siberian 
proprietor  of  vast  Wf^alth,  and  the  I'csult  was  the  ])urchase  of 
th(^  ]'c(j(i,  which  was  libcn'ally  (Hjui])])ed  for  a  successful  expe- 
dition. 

T!ie  Vc(ia  had  been  used  for  whale-fishing  in  the  north  ])olar 
sea,  her  n^gistt^r  was  thrcn^  hundi'ed  and  fifty-seven  tons  gross, 
oi'  two  hundixMl  and  nin(ty-nine  net. 
Her  diuKnisions  wvvv  as  follows  : —  metres 

L(nigt)i  of  kind  o7.() 

T(>ngth  over  (l(H'k 4:5.4 

BcMim  extreme^  8.4 

Dei)th  of  hold  4.() 

She  had  a  sixty  hoi's(>-])ower  (Migine,  whicli  recpnred  ten 
cubic  f('(4  of  coal  ]K'V  hour,  developing  an  average  spiH'd  of 
six  or  s(>ven  knots  ])cv  houi".  The  x'cssel  was  a  full-rig<i,'ed 
bark,  willi  i)itch  ])ine  mas1s,  ii'on  wire  I'igging  and  patent 
reefing  to])  sails:  undei'  sail  alone  she  was  abl(>  to  attain  a 
sjkmmI  of  nine  or  t(Mi  knots.  She  cai'ried  the  SwcmUsIi  man- 
(»f-\\ar  flag  with  ;i  crowned  "O"  in  the  middle,  .and  bore  fliis 
t rium])hanlly  ib.i'oughout  .a  voyage  \\'hich  stands  in  history 
as  the  first  circaunnavigation  of  Asia  and  J^uropc^. 


H04 


THE   a  HEAT    WHITE  XOllTH 


"Wltli  X()i'(I(Miskj(>l(l  as  l(';ul(M',  Licutciumt  Palanden'  coni- 
maiulcM'  of  liu'  ship,  and  an  cificicnt  staff  of  officers  and  scien- 
tists, which  inchided  such  men  as  Lieutenant  Ilorgaaixl  of 
the  Royal  Danish  Xa\'\',  for  siiperintinident  of  the  nuiii'iietical 
and  nieteoi'oh)_uical  work,  F.  R.  Kj(dhnan,  Ph.D.,  Docent  in 
])()tany  in  t!ie  rniversityof  l'])sala,  and  Licnitenant  (!.  Bore, 
of  the  Ivoyal  Itahan  Xa\'y,  superintcMident  of  the  liydro- 
j2;ra])hical  work,  thc^  Iffy'  sailed  from  ( i()thenl)ur^-  July  4, 
1878,  in  company  with  her  convoy,  the  Lena.  Port  Dickson 
was  reached  on  the  moi'ninii  of  Au<;'ust  10,  and  nine  days  later 
('ap(^  Ser(>ro  or  Chelyuskin  in  77°  41'  north  latitude.  Of  this, 
the  most  nortlun-n  point  of  Siberia,  Xordenskj(")l(l  wi'ites  :  — 

"  W(>  had  now  reached  a  lirc-at  soal,  which  for  centuries  had 
been  the  obj(>ct  of  unsuccessful  stru<2,'|i>;l(^s.  For  the  first  tinu; 
a  vessel  lay  at  anchor  off  tlu^  northennnost  cape  of  the  old 
woi'ld.  Xo  wonder  then  that  the  occuri-ence  was  celebrated 
by  a  display  of  f!a<;'s  and  the  firin.u;  of  salutes,  and  when  we 
I'etui'ned  from  our  excursion  on  land,  by  h'stivities  on  board, 
b}'  wine  and  toast." 

"d'he  noi'th  point  of  Asia  forms  a  low  jiromontory,  which  a 
ba>'  divid(>s  into  t  wo,  the  eastern  arm  projecting;  a  lit  tie  farther 
to  the  north  than  the  western.  .V  ridti'e  of  hills  with  u'ently 
slo|)inii'  sides  runs  into  the  land  from  the  eastern  point,  and 
appears  within  sijiht  of  the  western  to  reach  a  heiLiiht  of 
thre(-  hundred  metres.  Like  the  ])Iain  \\\\v^  below,  the  sum- 
mits of  this  ran,'j,'e  were  neai'ly  ivvv  of  snow.  ()nly  on  the  hiil- 
.-ides  oi'  ill  (le<>p  furi'ows  exca\'at(>il  by  the  st  I'eams  of  melted 
snow,  and  in  dales  in  the  plains,  wei'c  lai',i;'e  white  snow-field> 
to  be  -eeii.  A  lov\'  ice-foot  still  I'emained  at  mo>t  plaees  aloiiii' 
the  -hoi'e.  \\\i\  no  ulacier  rolled  its  bluish-white  ice-m.asscs 
down  tli(>  moinit;!in  sides,  and  no  inl;ind  lakes,  tio  ])ecpen- 
dieiil;;r  clilT-.  no  lii'ih  mount.-iin  summits.  aa\'e  any  natural 
be:nily  to  ih.e  l;in(lsea|)e,  which  w.as  the  most  monotonous 
and  the  most  desolate  I  ha\'e  seen  in  the  lliiih  Noi'tli." 


■  ■■.■■.'i'-ii 


■'■i!    '1,. 

■■■r.\     \\ 


i 


,4'    v'.'i/'l 


<  !      'I 


■,      [f 


VOVAGIC  OF  THE  ''  VJ-JaA''  o05 

On  the  2.')(l  the  Vcgo  was  aii'ain  stoaniiiit;-  fonvard  among 
th(>  fields  of  drift-ice.  The  dilliculUes  of  vo\'aging  through 
unknown  \\'alers  overhung  with  fogs  and  mists  may  Ijetter 
Ik'  understood  1)\'  an  anecdote  descriljed  h}'  Xordenskjold, 
wliich  illustrat(>s  how  com])l(>tely  a  person  may  be  deceived 
hy  size  and  (hstance  of  objects:  — 

"One  can  scai'cely,  without  having  expericmced  it,"  h(^ 
writes,  ''form  any  idea  of  the  optical  ilhisions,  wliich  are 
pi'o.luced  by  mist,  in  regions  where  the  siz(^  of  the  objects 
wliich  are  visible  through  fog  is  not  known  Ix'forehand,  and 
thus  do(\s  not  give  the  s})ectator  an  idea  of  the  distance.  Our 
estimate  of  the  distance  and  s'vao  in  such  cases  de])ends  wholh' 
on  accident.  The  obscure  contours  of  the  fog-concealed 
ol)jects  themselv(\s,  besides,  an^  often  by  the  ignorance  of  the 
spectator  converted  into  whimsical  fantastic  forms.  During 
a.  boat  journey  in  Ilinlopen  Strait  I  once  intended  to  row 
among  drift-ice  to  an  island  at  a  distance  of  some  few  kilo- 
metres. When  the  boat  started,  the  air  was  clear,  but  wliile 
^\'(>  were  em])ioyed,  as  l)est  we  could,  in  shooting  sea-fowl 
for  dimi(>r,  all  was  wra])t  in  a  thick  mist,  and  that  so  unexpect- 
edly, that  we  had  not  time  to  take  the  bearings  of  th(>  island. 
This  led  to  a  not  altog(>ther  ])leasant  row  by  guess  among 
the  pieces  of  ire  that  were  drifting  about  in  rapid  motion  in  the 
soun.d.  All  exerted  thems(^lves  as  much  as  possilile  to  get 
sight  of  the  island,  whose  beach  would  afford  us  a  safe  r(\-^ting- 
idace.  While  thus  occupied,  a  (hu'k  l)(>i-(ler  was  seen  through 
th:'  mist  at  llie  hoi'izon.  It  was  tak(Mi  for  the  island  wliich 
\\'t>  W(-re  bound  for,  and  it  was  not  at  hrst  considered  remark- 
able that  th(>  dark  boi'd(>r  I'ose  i'a])idl\',  iuv  we  thought  tliat 
t';e  n.ii<t  Was  (Ii-])(M-sing  and  in  coii<e(juenc(>  of  that  moi'(^  of 
ihi'  land  w:is  vi-ible.  Soon  two  white  snow-fields  that  W(> 
had  not  observed  beff)i'(\  ■wiM'f-  s(>en  on  both  sides  of  the  land, 
anil  ijumediately  aflei'  lhi<  was  changed  to  a  sea  monstei', 
re-emidini>:    a    walrus-head    as    larue    as    a    mountain.     This 


:i(Mj 


THE  (.iiKAT  Willi E  yoiriii 


,uitt  life  ;ui'l  MKitidii,  and  finally  .-;tnlv  a.ll  at  once  to  the  hf'ad  (if  a 
(■Mniniwn  walni.-.  which  hiy  on  a  jtircc  of  ice  in  tlic  nciglib(jur- 
liooil  of  the  hoat  :  the  white  1u.-]<>  foi'nic<l  the  snow-ficlds 
and  the  dark  !»r(j\\'n  I'ound  head  tlic  mountain.  Scarce  was 
Thi-  ihn.-ion  ;ione  when  (^ne  of  the  men  crifMl  out.  'Land  ri,uht; 
ahead  —  hiidi  hind!'  A\'e  now  ah  saw  Ix'fore  us  a  hi'ih 
Alpine  reuion.  with  mountain  })eaks  and  jilacier,-.  but  this  t(j(j 
sank  a  nioiiK'nt  aftei'wanl-  all  at  once  to  a  ('(junnon  ice- 
border,  blackened  with  earth.  In  the  .-pririg  of  bs73  I'he- 
huhler  and  I  with  nine  men  nuule  a  >le(lo-e  journey  round. 
Xorthea.-t  Laml.  In  the  course  of  this  journey  a  ji:reat  many 
be'U's  were  >(-i-\\  and  killcMl.  AMien  a  bear  was  >i'>.'n  while  we 
were  drauuinii'  (jur  sl('d,iie  forAVaril,  the  train  commonly  .-tood 
still,  and.  not  to  fri,ii'hten  the  beai'.  all  the  men  concealeil  them- 
selve-  bc'liind  the  >lc(lg'e-.  with  the  exc('])tion  of  the  mai'ks- 
man.  who.  -quattinu  down  in  .-ome  c(jn\"enient  ])lacc.  waited 
till  hi.-  i)rey  >hould  c(jme  sufhciently  in  range  to  be  kili(NJ  with 
certainty. 

"It  hap])enf-d  on(  <■  durirm;  fou'_y  weather  on  the  ice  at 
A\'ah!eiibei-g  liay  that  the  bear  that  was  ex])ectedi  and  had  l)eeu 
clearly  -een  iiy  all  of  u>.  in-tcad  of  ap])r(xiching  with  hi-  u-ual 
^upp'lc  zi;j.'z:!U  movement-,  and  w\\\[  hi-  orduriai'y  attcm])t-  to 
no-e  him-clf  t(;  a  .-ure  in-iiiht  into  the  fitne.-<  of  the  fDreiuncrs 
f'li'  looil.  ju-t  a>  the  mark-man  toolc  aim.  ,-pread  nut  Liiuaniic 
win::'-  aic!  ''icw  away  in  the  form  of  a  -mall  i\'oi'\'  uuil.  \n- 
oiiar  time  diin-ino'  ilic  -ame  -umIuc  joui'iiey  wt'  heai'd  trom  the 
tcnl  in  wliicli  We  !V~icd  the  Co.ik.  who  wa-  employed  out-:de. 
cry  ou' .    'A   bear!    a.  great    b'eai' !     Xo  !      a   I'eiu'leer.   a  \"(-ry 

lilbe    reiu' ieer  !  "       The    -;ime    in-tant    a    Well-dlil'ected    -hot    Wa- 

fii'' d.  ::M'\  the  liear-reiMdeer  \\-a-  found  to  be  a  \-ery  -mall 
fo\'.  whicji  ihu-  peid,  \\-ii!!  ii-  life  for  the  houour  (.f  h;i.\"ing 
\nv  -o!ii"  moiiKiit-  playe'!  the  p;iri  of  a  biLi'  animal.  I'rom 
ih:  -'■  ac!-o',(.--  ji   !!i;;y  1  e  -e(^n  how  liilhcuii  navigation  among 

dd:  i  -;c''    l:|ii-l     b.'    ill     ludUii  iWM    W^llt'i'-."" 


VOYAGE   OF  THE  '•  rAYrM  "  307 

It  had  l.)eeii  undc^rstood  that  the  Lena  would  accompany 
the  Vega  as  far  as  one  of  the  mouth-arms  of  the  Lena  River. 
But  on  the  night  of  th(>  27th  of  August,  while  off  Tumat 
Islands,  all  conditions  being  favourable,  the  slhps  parted  com- 
pany, after  Captain  Johannescai  had  received  ord(>rs,  pass- 
ports and  letters  for  home.  ''As  a  ])arting  salute  to  our  trusty 
little  attendant  during  our  voyage  round  tlie  north  point  of 
Asia  some  rockets  were  fired,  on  wliich  we  steamed  or  sailed 
on.,  each  to  liis  (l(\stination." 

Following  an  eastcM'ly  course,  through  shallow  open  water 
the  Tcf/a  all  ])ut  made  the  Xorthi^ast  Passage  in  onc^  season. 
Toward  the  end  of  September,  however,  she  was  frozen  in 
off  the  shore  of  a  lo\v  plain  or  tundra  in  G7°  71'  X.,  and  17;-r 
20'  A\'.,  iwiiv  the  settlenuaits  of  tlu^  C'huckch(N,  numbering 
about  three  hundred  souls.  The  op(Mi  water  which  to  a  late 
date  in  tlie  season  had  favoured  tlu^  pn.)gress  of  the  ex])edition, 
was  acc(.)unted  for  by  th(^  volumes  of  warm  wat(M'  dischargXHl 
into  the  Poln.r  Sea  during  the  summer  l)y  the  grisat  SibHM'ian 
river  systems.  During  the  voyage,  valuable  natural  history 
ci)ll(H'tions  were  made,  and  the  sea  bottom  was  found  to 
aljound  in  animal  and  vegetal)le  lUv. 

'AYhen  we  wvvq  beset,"  writes  Xordenskj(")ld,  "the  ic(^  next 
tli(^  shore  was  to(j  weak  to  carry  a  foot  ]);iss(nu!,'(M',  and  t]i(> 
difhcult}'  of  reaching  ilu>  vessel  fi'om  tli(^  land  Vs-itli  the  means 
which  the  C'huckches  had  at  their  disposal  was  thus  very 
grrat.  Wh(ai  the  natives  obsei'V(>d  us.  tlua'e  was  in  any  cas(> 
immediati'ly  a  great  commotion  among  tluMU.  Men.  woukmi. 
chihlren,  and  do,:i,'s  were  simmi  running  up  ;ind  d(.)Wn  the  Ix-acli 
iii  eager  confusion  :  somc^  were  seen  driving  in  dog— hMlge.-,  on 
the  ice  street  mwt  the  sea.  They  evidentl}'  feared  tliat,  th(» 
s])lendid  opportunit \'  wliich  here  hiy  before  l!i(Mn  of  ])urcha<- 
ing  brandy  and  tobacco  Avoiild  be  lost.  From  the  vessel  W(^ 
could  s(>ewith  glasses  how  scv.M'al  attempts  v.'cre  made  to  ])Ui 
out  boats,  but  tlu'\'  were  again  given  u[).  imlil  at   htst  a  boat 


308  rilE   GREAT   WHITE  NORTH 

was  got  to  a  lano,  cloar  of  \vv  or  only  covered  with  a  thin  shcH't, 
tliat  ran  from  the  sliore  to  the  neighbotirhood  of  the  ves-cL 
In  this  a  hirge  skin  boat  was  j)ut  out,  which  was  fiUcnl  brimful 
of  men  and  women,  regardless  of  the  evident  danger  of  na.vi- 
gating  such  a  boat,  lieavily  laden,  through  sha,r]),  newly 
formed  ice.  They  rowe(l  immediately  to  th(>  vessel,  and  on 
reacliing  it  most  of  them  climbed  without  the  least  iiesitation 
over  tlu^  gunwale  with  jests  and  laughtei',  and  the  cry  'anoaj, 
aiiaaj'  (good  day,  good  da\'). 

"Our  first  meeting  with  the  inhabitants  of  this  region,  wIkm'c 
we  afterwards  passcMJ  tcai  long  montlis,  was  on  both  sides  very 
hearty,  and  formed  the  starting-point  of  a  \'ei'\'  friendly  rela- 
tion between  th(>  Cluickches  and  oursi^lves,  wliich  i-(>mained 
tmalt(n'ed  during  the  whole  of  our  stay." 

"On  the  oth  of  OctolxM',"  continu(\s  Xord('nskj(')ld,  "the 
openings  between  the  di'ift-ice  fields  next  (he  \-essel  were 
C()ver(>d  with  s])lendid  skating  ice,  of  wliich  we  availiMl  oar- 
selves  by  celebrating  a  gay  and  ,io\'()Us  festi\'al.  The  ( "huclrche 
women  and  children  wcm'c  now  se(Mi  lisliing  for  winter  loach 
along  \\\v  shore.  In  this  soi't  of  fishing  a  man,  who  always 
accompani(\-<  the  fishing  wonuMi,  with  an  iron-shod  iauce  cuts 
a  hole  in  the  ice  so  near  t!ie  shore  that  the  distance  between 
the  undei-  corner  of  the  hole  and  the  bottom  is  oiilx'  half  a, 
metre.  J'^ach  hole  is  used  only  by  one  woman,  and  that  oni\' 
for  a  short  time.  Stoo[)ing  down  at  tlie  hole,  in  which  the 
surhice  o!'  t  lie  watei'  is  kept  puite  clear  of  pieces  of  ice  by  means 
ol  an  ice-si(>ve,  she  cndea\oui's  (oallra.ct  I  he  fish  bynieansof 
a  peculiar,  wondeiTuliy  clatlcring  ci'y.  Mrsl,  when  a  {\>\\  is 
seen  in  the  water,  an  angling  line,  provided  with  a  hook  of 
bone,  ii'on,  oi-  cop|ier,  is  thrown  down,  >li'ips  of  I  he  entrails 
ot  fl.-h  bcmg  employed  as  bait.  A  small  nu-t  !'e--long  stall' 
wiih  a  single  or  double  crook  in  the  end  was  also  u.-ed  a,-  a 
fishlnii'  iniplcmcnP  With  tills  lillle  lei>P'i'  the  men  cast  uj) 
li,-h  on   the  ice   with   inca'cdible  dcxterit  w"" 


#.^  v*^ 


:;;i: 


liETUnX   OF  THE  "  VEGA  "  309 

ITuntiiiti;  and  exploring  excursions  W(^re  sent  out  from  the 
Vci/.i  with  \'urying  success ;  as  the  seasons  advanced  the 
natives  were  tlu'eatened  witli  the  usual  scarcity  of  food,  which 
v.'as  largely  relieved  by  the  generosity  of  the  Europeans.  A 
most  careful  and  tliorough  study  was  made  of  these  natives, 
their  characteristics,  mode  of  life,  manners,  speech,  and 
customs. 

On  July  18,  the  Vega,  was  liberated  from  the  ice,  after  hav- 
ing been  ini])risoned  two  hundred  and  ninety-four  days. 

After  a  lapse  of  three  hundred  and  twenty-six  years,  when 
Sir  Hugh  Willoughby  made  the  first  attempt  at  a  northeast 
passage,  the  Vega  sailed  through  Behring  Strait,  July  20, 
1879,  being  the  first  vessel  to  penetrate  by  the  north  from 
one  of  the  grc^at  world  oceans  to  anotlier.  Th(^  Vega  an- 
clKjred  at  Yokohama  on  the  (n'ening  of  the  2d  of  Septem1)er. 

"On  our  ai'rival  off  Yokohama,"  writes  Xordenskjold,  '"wo 
wer(>  all  in  good  li(-alth  and  the  Vega  in  excellent  condition, 
th<.)i!gh,  after  tlu^  h'Ug  voyage,  in  want  of  s(jme  minor  rc^pair, 
of  (loeking.  and  ])ossib!y  of  cop])ering.  Naturally  among  thirty 
men  soiuf^  mild  n1  tacks  of  illness  c()uld  not  be  avoided  in  the 
coui'se  of  a  year,  but  no  (lis(>ase  had  been  generally  prevalent, 
and  OiU-  state-  of  liealth  liad  constantly  been  excellent.  Of 
seur\'v  we  luid  not  s(>en  a  trace." 

Fi'om  Yokohama  the  news  of  the  Vega\^  success  was  tele- 
graphed thi'ouglujut  tbic  w'(ji'ld,  and  the  homeward  journey 
of  tlie  (^x]>'vlit ion,  \'ia  Hong  Kong.  Singa])ore,  Suez,  Xa]:)les, 
Li-l)oM,  ( 'oDenliatren,  to  Stnckiiolm  was  on(^  of  trium]iliant 
])r()U'r('-s  ;  eaeli  count I'y  ti'ying  to  outdo  th(>  others  in  giving 
a  roynl  welcome  to  the  gallant  ex])l(jrers.  The  Vega  reached 
Stockholm  A])ril  24,  bS8(),  after  a  journey  of  twenty-two 
thousand  one  hundred  eightv-nine  miles. 


CHAPTER   XVII 


British  expfHlition  of  1^75. — Tlif  .1/^/-/  and  Di.^rortrij. — Captain 
(.icorov':^.  Xaivs.  1'.  li.  S,.  Al!)crt  IL.  Markham,  I'.  R.  (;.  S.  --Two 
v(j\'ati'(\-  of  the  Pn/n/ni-n.  1.s7.j-1n7().  -  Scliwatka's  search  for  the 
l-"raiiklin  ivcords,  lN7.^-kN7'.). 

Tnt;  British  iioi'th  polai'  cxjXHhtioti  of  1S75  coinpi'ised  the 
Ahrt.  a  scventocii-u'un  slooj),  and  tlie  Discorrrij,  orijiinally  a 
Dtindcc    whah'r.      Cnder    the    supcrvi.-ion    of    th(>    A(hiiiral 

Superiiiteiidf-iit   of 
^'  "^X  the    I)(K-kyard    at 

W  Wi.  Port>iuotith        Sir 

Leo])old  !M'('hii- 
t(_)ckj  tliese  s]ii])s 
were  coiiipletely 
(A'ei'hauled,  nvii- 
foi-eed,  and  adniir- 
akily  outhtteil  l'i»r 
the  ser\'ic(-  ex- 
]")(■(■  1  e  d  of  t  h  em. 
I-^aeh  \-(--el  was 
-u])]")he(l  with  nine 
l)oat<  of  \'arious 
.-ize<.  e-  pe  (•  i  a  i  1  \' 
CO  n  .-  1  I'uet  ed  for 
.-er\dee  in  Arctie 
Wat  (■  r-.  Croat 
cai'e  wa-  exei'ci.-ed 

/i,v /-'/■„.■.,•„. -yy/.,  /,■/..,•„'.//.,„-/„„  Av,/-,.  i'l  M'le^ion   of  of- 

'  ■,;/,/,,■;,,  o',  .N.  A'f;/'. -./■■./,'.  .^.  fieer-    aiid_    nioii; 

:;h) 


CArrAI.Y    (IKORGK  S.    NARES.    F.  R.  S. 


811 


and  tlioii'socuil,  inonil,  and  jihysieal  qualifications  \v(m-(^  strictly 
in(}iiiro(l  into.  To  Captain  (!(H)i'ti(^  S.  Xarcs,  F.  U.S.,  was 
intrusted  tli(^  connnand  of  the  exi)cdilioii,  and  ( 'oniniander 
AllxM't  H.  Marlvhani  was  ])lac(Hl  second  in  conun.and. 

On  tlu^  aft(4'noon  of  ^lay  2\),  1875,  the  vessels  steamed 
out  of  Poi'tsniouth  harbour.  At  Spithead  tlu>  sfjuadron  was 
joitu>d  by  the 
Vdloroiis^  wliich 
acconi])anie(l  the 
ships  as  far  as 
Disco.  After  a 
stortn}'  but  un- 
(^•(nitful  voyage 
th(^  ex])edition 
stood  off  some 
distance  from 
('ap(^  Farew(dl 
,]{mc  25.  On  the 
27th,  a  falling 
tcin])(>ratur(>  and 
a  })i'culiar  light 
l)lirdv  along  the 
hiorizon  gave  due 
notice  of  the  im- 
mcMli  ate  ]ii'ox- 
imiiy  of  th(^  ice. 
Th(>  W(>ather 
bc'iug  thick  and 
foggy,  extj'a  pi'(*- 
caiil  ions  were  tak(Mi  to  avoid  collision  wit  [i  any  icelxM'gs.  Tlu^ 
following  moniiug,  the  high,  bold,  snow-ca.])p<>d  hills  near 
( ':ipc  1  )(>solal  ion  were  sighted.  Seals  were  now  s(>en  basl^iiig 
hizil\'  on  the  ice,  and  birds  cointnon  to  th.ese  r(\;rioii-  lio\'(M'ed 
r(nind  the  shi|)s,  awakening  the  echoes  with   their  gladsome 


Bi/  })crnii-''.-'i<)ii  iif  Tlic  I llusirdli'd  London  Xcic^. 
Cinnmunili  r  A.  II.  Markhani 


ol2  THE  anEAT    WHITE  NORTH 

cries.  On  July  1,  tlic  little  D;inish  s(^ttl(>inont  of  Fiskernaos 
was  ])ass(Hl,  and  later  that  of  (Jodthaah.  On  July  4,  the  Ai'ctic 
circle  was  crossed,  and  two  days  aftei'wai'ds  i\\v  (\\])(Hlition  was 
safely  landed  in  the  hay  of  Lievely,  off  (iodhav(>n;  t\\c 
Inspector  and  inhabitants  ;i,ivin<>;  a  warm  and  hearty  welcome. 
Stores  \ver(^  now  taken  aboard  from  the  Valorous,  and  evei'y 
])rei)aration  made  to  ])lunji;e  inlo  the  fro/en  north,  and  meet 
the  ex])ei'iences  of  a  lonji;  pt^'iod  of  enforced  isolation. 

A  dense;  h)S2;  soon  necessitated  makin^i*;  thesiiips  hist  to  ice- 
ber<;'s  to  await  a  more  favoui'abh^  op])ort unity  of  a(h'anciii,<i;. 

"Whilst  attem])tin<;-  to  secure  the  ships,"  contilUl(^s  iNFark- 
ham,  "an  alarmin<>;  catastroplie  occui-hmI.  Th(>  l)oat  had  })eeu 
despatcluMl  containin,ti;  thi'(H>  men  with  the  nec(^ssai-y  im])le- 
nuMits,  such  as  an  ice  drill  and  anchor  h)r  making  tlie  vessel 
fast.  As  soon  as  the  first  blow  of  the  drill  was  delivc^red,  f  Ju^ 
berg,  to  our  horror,  s])lit  in  two  with  a  loud  r(^i)()rt,  one  half 
with  («!(»  of  our  inen  on  it  toi)i)ling  o\-er,  whilst  the  other  half 
swayed  ra])idly  backwards  and  forwai'ds.  On  this  latter 
])i(M'e  was  auotluM'  of  our  mc^i,  who  was  ot)served  ^\•ith  his 
heels  in  the  air,  the  violent  agita,tion  of  tiie  b(>rg  having  ])re- 
ci])itated  him  head  h)remost  into  a  i'ent  or  ci'cvasse.  Tlie 
AN'ater  alongside  was  a  mass  of  s(H'thing  h)am  and  s])ray,  l>ut 
cui'ious  to  I'clate,  th.e  boat  with  \}w  third  man  in  it  was  in  no 
way  injured.  They  were  ail  s])eedily  rescued  from  th.eir  peril- 
ous position  and  bi'ongiit  on  board,  sustaining  no  furthi'!'  liai'iu 
than  that  inflicted  by  a  cold  bath.  Their  esca,})e  appeared 
mii'aculous." 

( )n  the  1*.)th  of  July,  the  ships  canu^  to  anchor  olT  the  Danish 
seUlemenl  of  l^rdven,  and  here  Hans  Hen.di'ik.  the  Mskimo, 
d()g-di'i\'(  1'  and  hunter,  who  had  a.ccomj)anied  so  nia.n^'  exp*'- 
ditlons  h)  Smith  Sound,  wa,s  engaged.  I'utiing  t(t  >ea  once 
m(»|-(',  they  passed  the  headland  of  ''Sanderson,  his  hope," 
the  21st  of  .lul\',  anchoring  oif  L'])ernavik  the  following 
morniuii. 


ALBERT  II.    MARK II AM,    F.  R.  G.  S. 


310 


Pibliinii;  boldly  throutili  the  luidillc  ice.  the  ])ass:i,<i'('  throu.u'h 
Melville  l^;iy  \\'as  safely  accomplished  and  the  North  Water 
r(^aclied  without  incident.  Arriving'  off  the  ( 'ai'y  Islands  on 
the  nioi'nin,u'  of  th(>  27tli,  a  cache  of  ])rovisions  was  landed 
sufficient  to  sustain  sixty  men  for  two  months.  Other  dejxjts 
\wro  cached  at  ('a])e  Hawkes  and  ("ape  Jdnc(^ln.  V)\'  the 
2sth  of  ,lul\'  both  shi])>  came  to  anchor  at  Port  Foulke,  the 
winter  ([uartca's  of  Dr.  Hayes  in  181)0.  An  (-xcursion  from 
this  i)oint  was  taken  by  ('a])tain  Xares  and  ( 'ommander 
Alai'kham  to  Life-boat  Cove,  the  wintei'  (juarte!'-  of  th(>  rem- 
nant of  the  Pohtris  crew  in  LS72-bS7-")  Traces  of  that  ex]:)e- 
diti<)n  were  inunediatel\'  found  u])on  laudari,<i  :  various  relics 
such  as  a  trunk,  an  old  b;isk(M  lined  with  tin.  boxes,  stores, 
])iece<  of  wood,  ,<i;un-l)arrels,  and  odds  and  ends  Ia>"  strewn 
about.  A  C(_)llecti(_)n  wa.s  ma/le  of  such  articles  as  were  of 
an\'  value  for  the  |)ur])ose  of  n^turnin.u'  them  to  th(>  United 
States.  Xares  and  Alarkham  now  ])roceeded  to  Littleton 
I-land  in  tli(>  ho])(s  of  frndimi'  an  iron  boat  left  there  by  Dr. 
Ilay(->  in  bSiiO.  Though  a  careful  search  was  niad(',  no  traces 
o\  ii  were  discovered. 

After  d'ecting  a  cairn  at  the  southwest  end  of  tlii^  island  on 
a  hill  >ome  five  or  six  hundred  feet  aixA'c  >ea  level,  from  which 
]).)i)U  ('aj)e  Subine  ;uid  ("ape  Fi'a-er  could  be  >('('\\.  the  inter- 
x'i-niim:  distance  na\'i,u:able  oixmi  water,  (';i])taiii  Xares  and 
(  'otuMumder  Markham  c(jngratulated  tliem-elves  on  tlie 
pro-i)ect   of  I'.'ipid  ])rogress. 

A  few  houi's  after  tlu^  return  to  the  shij)  tlie  favourab)l(>  con- 
diiions  suddenly  changed,  and  from  that  time  on  the  two  ship< 
!>:ittle(i  with  the  ice-])ack.  I  lufi'L'inu'  the  we-t  >hore.  and  keep- 
iiiu'  ^vi'v  fi'om  tlie  main  ]):iek  after  leaving  (';:])e  Sabin(\  (";!])- 
taiii  \:i!'(-<  hnrdly  left  the  crow's-ne-t  in  l;i-  hf'i'oic  efforts 
tii  t:ike  ad_\-;n!iage  of  (>vei'y  lead  and  opeuin:,'. 

'■  Little  re>t  was  enjoyiM!  by  an\'  on  tlf-e  liays  diu'iuu'  whicli 
\\"e  were  subjected   to  the  Wayv.'ard  will  of  ttie  pack."   writes 


ol-i  THE  CHEAT  wiiiri-:  xoirrii 

( 'oinniitndcr  ?*Iarklium.  On  the  lOth  (jf  Au<i''i>t,  lie  says, 
'■  l)iiriii,<;  the  last  three  week<  we  liad  advanced  exaetl\'  niiKty 
miles.  ()!■  at  the  rate  of  ahoul  four  and  a  (lUarter  a  day.  This 
cannot  \)v  considered  a  ra])id  rate  of  t ravel lin,u;,  yet  to  accom- 
])lish  even  this  necessitated  a  constant  and  \'igilant  lookont.'' 

Pusliing  tlieir  way  steadil}'  onward,  they  ])a>sed  C'ajie 
Lieber  and  crossed  Lady  Franklin  ]>ay.  On  the  2.jth  of  Au- 
<i'ust,  while  threading  ainonji'  ihe  ice-floes  that  hordere<l  the 
coa-t.  a  herd  of  inu>k-oxen  were  seen  l)rowsin<i  on  an  adjacent 
hill.  A  shootinr;;  party  was  sent  ashore,  which  sej)arateil 
int(.)  three  ])arties  uprni  landin,<j;  and  ad\'anc('d  ctnitiousl}' 
towaril  the  spot  wliere  the  animals  w(-re  seen  ^razinii,:  So 
successful  was  the  hunt  that  twenty-one  hundrf-d  and  twenty- 
f(jur  p(jun<ls  of  fre>h  meat  was  thcr('sult  of  the  ■' mornin,u'">  l)a<i'."' 

Tiie  harlK)ur  in  \\iiicli  the  ships  were  ancli(jr('d  ])o»f;s-ed  all 
the  nec('ssary  (lualifications  for  comfortahle  winter  {juart('rs, 
so  that  ('a])tain  Xares  decifled  Xu  leave  the  iJisrorci'u  and 
proc('('d  with  tlu-  Ah  rt.  J^verythin.u'  ha\"i!i,L!,'  1  ler^n  satisfactorily 
arran^:ed,  the  Alert  steamed  away  fr(jm  l)i<r'()\-ery  Ilarhor 
on  the  mornin,u'  of  the  2(ith.  ])U.shiii,!i,'  lu^r  caution-  way  along 
the  we-t  shorf'  of  Keimedy  Chamiel.  "  Se])leni!)(T  P--t 
(187oj,"  writes  Connnander  Afarkham,  "nni-t  alway>  he 
reu'arded  at  lea-t  1)\'  all  tho.-e  connected  \\'ith.  or  in1ei'e>led  in, 
Arctic  research,  as  a  red  l(>tlc!'  day  in  the  aim;i.ls  ol  na\'al 
enler])i'i<e.  and  indeed  in  J-Jiuli-h  hi>l(jry,  for  on  tlii>  day 
a  I>riti>h  man-of-war  reached  a  higher  noi'thci'n  Iclitud.c  tlian 
ha<l  e\'er  yet  Ik'CU  re;iche(l  Ijy  any  >hip  ^2 '  2-V  N..  ''»2'  'W  .  , 
and  we  had  the  (■xtrenie  .uratificat ion  of  hoi<ling'  the  coloui's 
at   noon  to  ceh-l  irate  the  e\-(-n{ ."' 

After  roundiii.uA 'ai)e  Cuion,  the  coa>t  treiuk'd  away  to  the 
A\'(--tward  of  north,  furtlicr  ad\'ance  hecame  inii)o--!l  lie,  and 
t  lie  Ah  rl  found  her-elf  on  the  hleak  >!ior('-  ol'  the  Polar  <  )cean. 
A  more  de-olate  |)o-ition  in  which  to  pa->  the  \\intei'  could 
hai'dh'   he   im;Uiined. 


ALIlFAtT   II.    MAHKIIAM,    F.R.G.S.  315 

"Witlioul  ;i  harbour,"  writes  Murkhain,  "or  projecting 
headland  of  any  (les('ri])tion  to  })roteet  our  <>;oo(l  ship  from  the 
furious  trusts  that  we  must  naturally  expe-et,  the  Alert  lay, 
ai>parenlly,  in  a  vast  froz(>n  ocean,  having  land  on  one  side, 
bul  bounded  on  the  other  by  the  chaotic  and  illimitabk^ 
])()lar  pack."' 

After  a  ])reliminary  sledge  journe}-  to  ascertain  if  a  more 
sheltered  hai'bour  might  be  sought,  it  was  decided  to  winter 
in  their  present  j^osition.  Preparations  were  innncnliately 
made  to  secure  the  shi])  to  '-'Floe-berg  Binich,  "  and  ])lans 
^\■vro  laid  out  for  autumn  sledge  journeys  to  (lei)osit  caches 
of  i^rovisions  for  the  following  s])ring.  On  the  11th  of  Sep- 
tember, Markham,  Parr,  and  Eg(>rton,  accompanicxl  by 
eighteen  mem,  ma<le  a  journey  nortliward  along  the  })roposed 
I'oiite  of  exploration,  for  the  jnuposc^  of  advancing  two  l)oats 
to  be  used  during  future  sledging  o])erations.  On  Sc^ptemlxT 
2.1,  ('onmiander  r^Iarkham,  with  Lieutc^nants  Parr  and  ^lay, 
assist (m1  by  members  of  the  crew,  set  out  upon  another  jour- 
ney ;  th(>v  ri^acluMl,  OctolxM-  4,  82"^  .lO'  X..  off  ("a])e  Jos(^-])h 
Jleurv,  and  a  de])ot  was  established.  The  return  journey 
Ix'canu^  most  irksome  and  laborious.  The  snow  had  accu- 
mulated to  such  a  (l(^])th  as  to  rcMider  some  of  the  ravines  and 
])i'()m()n1()ries  almost  im])assable.  A  suddcm  fall  in  tempera- 
ture i)r()duc(Hl  severe  frost-bites.  On  the  14th  of  Octolx'r,  in  a 
temperature  of  2')°  below  zero,  the  exhausted  party  reached  the 
ship. 

Pi'ei)arati()ns  foi-  the  wint(>r  having  be(Mi  finished  and  the 
sledging  i)arties  all  having  returned,  there  was  little  left  to 
do  but  await  tlu^  coming  of  the  sun,  which  was  a])sent  one 
huiidreil  and  forty-five  days,  during  which  officers  and  crew 
nnite(l  in  k<'(M^)ing  u]~»  cheerful  si)irits  and  good  health  l)y  the 
usual  exerci-e,  amusenients,  and  routine  of  daily  duties. 

]\ai'ly  in  Mai'ch.  1S7(),  an  attemi)t  was  made  to  communi- 
cate  witli    the   Discorcnj.       Li(>utenants    l\gerton   and    Raw- 


;;i(; 


THE   GIU'JAT    WHITE  XOllTIl 


^(>!i  wci'c  scU>c1('(l  for  tills  joui'iicy  iiiid  wcfc  ;i('('Oiu])anie(l  hy 
I'clcrscii,  Ihc  Diiiilsh  Intctprctcr  aiid  sl('(i;i,('-(lrlv('r.  On  liu^ 
I21I1  of  Ahirch,  111  a  t('iu])('nitiii'('  of  oO°  below  'zero,  the  ])arty 
\v\{  the  Alirl,  carryin.Li;  messages,  letters,  and  instructions  to 
tliose  ahoai'd  the  sisier  ship.  Tlie  temperature  fell  very  low 
.soon  after  their  departure,  and  on  the  third  day  they  uiiex- 
])e('ledly  returiuHl  with  th(>  poor  Dane  utt(U'ly  prostrate^  and 
li(4pless  on  the  sled<i;e. 

"  I  cannot  do  better  than  r(4ate  tlie  sad  story  in  Li(niteiiant 
l'];i;er'on's  own  words,*'  \vrites  AlarKluim.  "We  I'cad  in  his 
olficia!  re])ort,  that  not  fi\'e  liours  aft(>i'  they  had  left  the  sh.i]) 
M'rost-bite^  l)(>caine  so  uumeron>,  that  I  tlioii!J,ht  it  advisable 
to  encamp.'  Tiiis  -was  only  the  beginnin,^'  of  the  story,  for 
the\'  appear  to  ha\'e  ])assed  a  com])arati\'el\'  comforlable 
niii,tit.  At  any  rale  they  were  u{)  eai'ly  the  next  iiioriiin<i; 
and  a,<;';iin  under  \vei,t;li  ;  at  about  one  o'clock,  wlien  they 
luilted  for  lunch,  Peters(ai  complained  of  cram])  in  his  stoniMch, 
and  w;ts  «i;i\-en  some  hot  tea.  lie  had  no  ai)])etit(>,  Avhich 
pei'haps  w;is  as  well,  for  \ve  read  of  th(>  l)acon,  wh.ich  i>  always 
used  for  hmch  :  'We  \V(M'e  niuible  to  e:it  it,  beinii,'  fr()Z(Mi  so 
hard  that  we  could  not  li'el  our  teeth  tlu-ou.^h  the  lean.'  They 
still  coiilinued  their  journey,  eiicounieriii,i!,-  some  \-ery  rouuii 
i  r:i\('nin!.':,  wiiich  nece-'sitated  sex'ere  physical  labour  on  tlic; 
])a!'(  of  t  he  i  wo  ()fric(-i's.  'The  do,i:;s  were  of  lit  t  le  or  no  use  in 
a:cll  iaa,' a,ci-oss  t  hcs(~  sloi)es,  as  it  was  impossible  to  iret  them  to 
v;n  up  the  cli!!',  ;uid  reteisi'ii  liein,!!,'  unable  to  work,  Lieutenant 
M;iwson  and  1  had  to  ,Li,'et  t'le  sleil^-e  alons^  as  b(>st  we  could.' 
'I'oA'Mi-ds  the  end  of  the  day  we  read:  '  Petei'sen  beu;;ui  to 
gel  I'Mihcr  woi'se,  ;iiid  w;is  sliivcriu'i  all  o\'i'r,  !;is  iios(-  Ixinsj,' 
c.!!i--t  :nit  ly  frost-!)il  ten,  ;md.  at  times  takini;'  ii\'e  or  ten  minutes 
bcfiire  ihe  ciri-ul;iti;»n  could  be  I  lioi'ouu'hiy  restoi'c'i.  I,icu- 
Icn.-ml  i\:!\\'-MU  li;id  sewTiil  small  fi'ost-biies,  and  I  escaped 
wit  ii  onlv  otic' 

'"On  haltiuLi-  U)V  the  niji,lit,"  continues  Mai'kham,  ''directly 


ALUKUT  11.    MAUKIIAM,    F.  II.  G.  S.  oil 

the  tent  was  pitched,  tluy  sent  rcterseii  inside  with  strict 
injunctions  to  shift  his  foot  gear  and  get  into  his  sl(H^|)ing  l)ag, 
whil>t  the\'  Ixisied  themselves  in  preparing  supix'r  and  attend- 
ing to  the  dogs  ;  hut  when  they  entered  tlie  t(^nt  they  found 
'th.;it  he  had  turned  in  without  shifting  his  foot  gear,  was 
groaning  a  gcnxl  deal,  and  com})laining  of  cram})  in  the 
stomach  and  legs.' 

"HaA'ing  mad(>  him  change,  they  gave  him  some  ten,  and 
then  administered  a  few  drops  of  sal  volatile,  which  a])])eai\Hl 
to  give  the  jioor  fellow  a  little  ease.  The  next  mcji'ning,  tlu^ 
wind  was  so  high  and  their  patient  in  sucti  a  wvnk  >tate  that 
tiiey  did  not  think  it  ])ru(lent  to  Mtt(>m])t  a  start.  lie  laid 
])assed  a  very  r(\-tl(>ss  night,  and  still  coin])laiiied  \'ery  much 
of  cram]).  Latei'  in  tlu^  day  he  apjK^ared  to  g(>t  worse,  'shak- 
irig  and  sliivei'ing  all  over  and  breathing  in  short  gas])s.  Ilis 
face,  hands,  ami  feet  \ver(>  all  fi'ost-hitten,  tlie  latter  severely, 
tmd.  he  liad.  pains  in  his  >ide  as  well.' 

'"After  re-toring  the  circulation  they  ruhhed  him  with 
warm  tlannels  and  placed  one  of  their  comfoi'ters  I'cvmd  his 
."stomach.  In  such  a  wr(>tched  state  \\'as  the  ])oor  fellow  that 
they  agreed  it  W(»uld  endanger  his  life  if  tlu^y  ]irocee(l(Hl  on 
tlieii'  journey,  and  that  wIkmi  the  weathei'  moderated,  the  only 
course^  th(>y  could  ])Ui'sue  was  to  return  with  all  haste  to  their 
shij). 

"As  it  was  imp()s>i!)le  to  kei']/  th.eii'  jnitient  vrarm  in  ihi^ 
tent.  the>e  two  young  officers  luirrowed  a  hol(>  in  a  snow-drifr, 
and  into  this  ca\-ily  they  transport(Ml  \]iv  sick  man.  th(>m>elv(\-, 
and  ;dl  their  tent  robes,  closiiui,'  tlie  auierture  by  ])lacin.g  oA'cr 
U  tlu>  tent  and  sledg(>.  They  de])rive(l  t]iems(d\-es  of  th(>ir 
own  clotliinu'  !oi-  tlie  benefit  of  tlie  invadid,  wliose  frozen  feel 
they  actually  ])laced  in>ide  tlieir  clothes  in  dii'ed  eoniaci 
with  tlieir  boiiie.-,  uulil  lh(ii'o\\'n  hea!  w;i<  exti'acte(l  ami  they 
were  ihcin-i'b'cs  -('\-",-r!y  fro<t-bil  ten  in  \'ariou.-  tvirt-.  The 
])()or   fellow  was  now  in  a  A'cry  low  slate;    he  could    I'etaiu 


818  Till-:  CHEAT    WHITE  \ortii 

noitlicr  food  nor  liciuid.  About  G  p.m.  lie  was  very  bad  ; 
tliis  time  worse  than  before.  There  ai)})eared  to  be  no  Iwiit 
in  liini  of  any  kind  whatever,  and  he  had  acute  pains  in  tlio 
stomach  and  back.  'Mv  chafed  him  on  the  slomach,  hands, 
face,  and  feet,  and  when  he  ^ot  Ijc^tter  wra])])ed  him  u])  in 
everything  warm  we  could  hiy  our  hands  upon,"  namely  their 
own  clothiiifi;,  which  th(\y  could  ill  afford  to  lose;  but  they 
entir(>ly  foruot  their  own  condition  in  theii'  endeavours  to 
ameliorate  that  of  their  conu'ade.  Light inji;  their  si>irit 
lam])  and  carefully  closing  (>very  crevice  by  which  the  cold 
air  could  enter,  they  succeed(Ml  in  raising  the  temjxM'atui'e  of 
the  int(>ri()r  to  7°;  but  'the  atm()s])here  in  the  hut  Itecnme 
somewhat  thick.'  This  was,  howcvei',  ])referable  to  the 
intense  cold.  Let  us  follow  the  story  out,  and  leai'u  how 
nobly  these  two  ofhcers  tended  their  sick  and  suffering  com- 
])anion.  '  AA'e  w(M'(>  conslantl}'  a>king  if  h(>  was  warm  in  his 
f(H>t  and  hands  to  which  he  replied  in  the  ;iflirmali\'e  ;  but 
Ix'fore  making  him  comfortable'  (fancy  being  conifarhihlc, 
imder  such  circumstances)  '  foi'  th(>  night,  we  examined  his 
feet,  and  found  tlieni  both  ])erfeclly  gelid  and  hard  from  the 
toes  to  the  ankle,  his  hands  nearly  as  bad.  So  each  taking  a 
foot  we  set  to  work  to  warm  them  with  oui-  luinds  and  flannels, 
as  (>ac!i  hand  and  flannel  got  cold  irarniitKj  Unni  (ihoid  mir 
])('rs()ns,  und  also  lit  U])  the  s])ii'il  lami).  Tn  about  two  hours 
we  got  his  feet  to,  and  ])Ut  them  in  warm  fool  geai\  cut  his  bag 
down  to  allow  him  moi'(^  room  lo  (n()^•e  in,  and  then  wrappe(l 
liim  up  in  llie  sjjarc  co\-er!(>1 .  His  haiub  we  also  bi'ouglit 
round  and  bound  lliein  up  in  flannel  wrapi)ei's,  with  mitts 
oN'cr  all.  Clax'c  him  some  warm  fea  and  ;i  lit  \  le  riim  and  watci-, 
^\■llicll  he  threw  u]).  Slioiily  afirr  I  found  liim  eating -now, 
\\iiicli  we  had  striclly  forbidden  once  or  Iwice  Ix'forc.  In 
en(lca\'ouring  lo  dotliis  again  during  llie  night .  lie  (lrag,uc(l  his 
fc(-1  ouf  of  tlic  cox'cring  ;  but  onl\'  a  few  minutes  could  lia\'e 
elapsed  before  this  wasde(ecle(l  by  Lieutenant    Ibiwson,  who, 


liETi'IiX   TO    THE   SHIP  319 

upon  examining  his  fec^t  found  I  hem  in  nmch  the  same  state 
as  before.  We  rubbed  and  chafed  them  again  for  over  an 
hour,  and  when  circulation  was  restorcnl  wraj^ped  him  uj) 
again,  and  so  ])assed  tlie  third  night.' 

'' On  the  following  morning  Petersen  ai)peared  to  })e  slightly 
better,  so  thinking  it  was  preferal>le  to  run  the  risk  of  taking 
him  back  as  he  was,  rather  than  to  pass  another  such  night  as 
the  last,  the\'  put  Idm  on  the  sledge  :  and,  having  hurriedly 
(>at(m  their  breakfast,  tliey  started  for  the  shij:)  with  all  de- 
spatch. They  had  a  rough  journey  ])efore  them  of  eighteen 
miles  ;  l)ut  they  knew  it  was  a  case  of  life  and  death,  and  they 
encouraged  the  dogs  to  their  utmost  sjiced.  The  dogs,  being 
homeward  bound,  were  willing  enough  and  needed  little 
])(>rsuasion,  so  that,  for  a  time,  they  rattled  along  at  a  good 
})ace.  But  actual  i)rogress  could  not  have  been  v(>ry  rapid, 
foi'  we  read  in  h^gerton's  report  tiiat  the  ])atient's  'circulation 
was  so  feeble  that  his  face  and  hands  were  constantl}'  frost- 
bitten, entailing  fre(iuent  stop]:)ages  whilst  we  endeavoured  to 
restore  the  alfectiMl  parts.'  The  difficulties  of  the  homeward 
j()urn(\\"  may  be  gathered  from  the  following  exti'acts  :  'On 
arriving  at  the  P>lack  Cape  we  had  to  take  the  patient  off  the 
,sledg(\  and  while  one-  assisted  him  round,  the  other  kept  the 
dogs  l):i.ck,  foi'  1)}'  this  time  they  kjiew  they  were  homeward 
bound,  and  riH]uired  no  small  amount  of  trouble  to  hold  in. 
After  g(>tting  the  sledg(^  round  and  restoring  P(>tersen's 
liands  and  nos(^  (wliich  W(M'(^  almost  as  l)ad  again  a  few  minutes 
after),  and  securing  him  on  ih(^  sledge,  we  again  set  off.  At 
t!ie  cape  the  same  difficulties  were  exiiericniced,  in  fact, 
rather  more,  for  the  slcnlge  took  a  charg('  down  a  ''ditch,'' 
about  n\'(Mity-fi\'e  f(>et  dee)),  turning  right  owv  three  times 
in  its  descent,  and  out  of  -wh.ich  we  had  to  drag  it,  and  while 
chai'ing  liarn(>ss  (which  fMn])lo>'e(l  us  both,  one  to  stand  in 
front  of  the  dogs  with  the  \\'hii),  while  the  other  cleared  the 
liiifs),  the  dogs  made  a  sudden  bolt  ])ast  Pieutenant  Pawson, 


o2()  THE   GREAT    WHITE   NOIITII 

who  was  In  front  with  i\\v  whip,  and  (h-a^gcd  mo  more  th'ui 
a  hun(lr(Ml  yards  bcfoi'c  we  could  ,sto|)  them.  At  lon<>;tli,  after 
the  usual  ])rocess  with  i'elerseu  (that  of  thawing  his  hands  and 
nose,  which  we  did  every  time  we  cleared  harness,  or  it  was 
actually  necessary  to  sto])),  w(,'  <i;ot  away,  thankful  that  our 
troubles  were  over.  The  doa,s  ji,'ot  their  harness  into  a  dread- 
ful entanji;lement  in  their  (-xcitement  to  get  honu^,  ])ut  we  wer(> 
afraid  to  clear  tlu^m  lest  they  should  break  away  from  us, 
or  cause  us  any  delay,  as  we  wvvv  both  naturally  anxious  to 
return  with  the  utmost  s])(H'd  to  the  ship,  and  so  relieve  our- 
selves of  the  serious  responsibility  occasioned  by  the  veiy 
precarious  state  in  which  our  patient  was  iN'ing.  l/pon  arriv- 
ing alongside  at  () :  30  p.m.,  we  w(^re  vc^y  thankful  that 
Petersen  was  able  to  answer  us  when  we  infornuHl  him  lie 
was  at  home.' 

"  In  conclusion  Lieut(Miant  Egerton  says: — ■ 

"  'I  j'egi-et  exceedingly  tliat  I  have  been  compellc^l  to  re- 
turn to  the;  ship  without  having  accom])lisli(Ml  my  journey  to 
H.AI.S.  Discorerij ;  but  I  trust  that  what  I  have  done  will 
meet  with  \'our  approval,  and  that  the  cours{>  I  ado]ited  may 
be  th.e  means  o\'  having  lessencMl  the  very  serious  and  distn^ss- 
ing  condition  of  Peterscm.'  " 

Poor  Petersen  ncA'cr  recovered  fi'om  th(>  effects  of  his 
terrible  ex])erience.  11(3  gradually  sank  and  dunl  peacefully, 
on  the  1  1th  of  May. 

The  work  of  these  two  brave  young  officers  on  tliis  oc- 
casion stands  out  conspicuously  amongst  ttK>  many  deeds  of 
daring  ;md  de\"otiou  with  which  the  ;unials  of  Ai'clic  a(h'eiit ui'(> 
abound.  l''ive  da\'s  after  their  i-eturn.  to  the  ship  (2()th  of 
Alarclij  the  same  two  odiccrs.  accom])ani('d  by  a  counle  of 
s:iilor->  and  a  -ledge  drawn  by  s('\-en  dogs,  startcMJ  once  more 
'ityc  the  i)i-<f(inrii.  After  fi\-c  dax's  of  a  toilsome  journ(\v 
I'ciidcriMl  all  the  more  se\-ere  by  iut(>iise  cold,  they  (cached  th(? 
ship  and  were  warml}'  welcomed  1)\'  her  ofiic(M's  and  crew. 


liKTI'Ry    TO    THE   SHIP  321 

The  serious  sledging  work  of  tlic  expedition  was  undertaken 
as  early  in  the  season  as  April  3,  in  a  temperature  of  33'' 
below  zero.  Seven  sledges  under  the  eonmiand  of  Alarkham 
and  Aldrieli  and  manned  by  a  force  of  li!"t\'-three  ofheers  and 
men  started  on  that  day  for  the  long-cherished  object  of  reach- 
ing the  Pole  and  of  exploring  the  northern  shores  of  GrimK^l 
Land.  "On  the  second  day  out,"  writes  Alarkham,  "the 
temperature  fell  to  45°  below  zero,  or  77°  below  freezing  point. 
The  cold  then  was  so  intense  as  to  deprive  us  of  sleep,  the 
temperature  inside  the  tent  being  as  low  as  —25°,  the  wliole 
period  of  resting  l)eing  occu])ied  in  attempting  to  keep  the 
blood  in  circulation.  Several  frost-bites  w(n-e  sustained, 
but  they  wc>re  all  attended  to  in  time,  and  r(\sulted  in  nothing 
worse  than  severe  and  very  uncomfortable  l)listers." 

By  the  10th  of  April  tlie  depot  of  provisions  established 
near  Ca])e  Josc^ph  Henry  during  tlu^  autunm  was  found  un- 
disturbed. At  this  point  the  supporting  sledges  returned  to 
th(^  shi))  and  the  two  divisions  separated  and  ad\'anced  on 
their  solitary  missions.  The  northern  di\'ision  miderAfark- 
ham,  with  two  heavily  laden  sledgc^s  and  seventcH^n  men, 
leaving  land  ])iished  straiglit  out  into  tlu^  rugged  polar  pack. 
Handicap]XHl  by  the  two  boats  which  they  carried,  and  in 
dread  of  an  o]^en  polar  s(>a,  t!i(\v  advanc(Ml,  aftcn-  abandoning 
one  of  th(^  l)oats,  s(n'enty-thr(H>  mih^,  l)ut  tlu^  advance  being 
mad(Mvith  divided  loads,  mor(^  than  two  hundred  sev(^nty-six 
mil(>s  was  a('t\i;ill\'  co\-(M'ed.  Ivctiching  the  farthest  north  up 
to  that  time,  83°  20'  X.,  (U°  W.,  May  12,  bS7(),  the  de])l(>ted 
condition  of  th(>  ])arty  and  th(^  ruuged  conditions  of  the  ice- 
floes, forced  the  gallant  Abirkham  to  retn^it. 

"It  is  unnecessary  to  describe,"  Avrites  Markham,  "tlie 
incid(>nts  that  occtu-red  on  (>ach  successive  day  dm-iiig  {\\c 
rcMin-n  journey.  Snow  I'ell  heavily,  dming  the  gixniter  part 
of  tli(>  retui'ii  journey,  and  fogs  w(>re  very  ])reva!(MU.  (lalc^s 
of  wind  had  to  be  cndmxHl,  h)r  to  halt  A\'as  out  of  the  qut^sliun 


THE   GIIKAT    W'lIITK  yoRTTI 


—  rest  there  was  none  —  onwurd  was  the  ordf^r  of  the  day. 
As  llie  disease  <2,Tadual!y  assumed  the  mastery  over  the  party, 
so  (Hd  the  a])|)etites  decrease,  and  in  a  very  alarming  manner, 
imtil  it  was  witli  the  (greatest  difliculty  that  an^'hody  could  1)(3 
induced  to  eat  at  all.  Instead  of  each  man  disposint);  of  oik^ 
I)ound  of  ])emmi('an  a  da.y,  the  s;une  ([uantity  sufficed  for  the 
entire  ])arty  in  one  tent  ;  and  even  this,  occasionally,  was  not 
consuuKMl.  Xor  was  the  subject  of  eating  arid  drinking  so 
often  discussed.  During  [he  ()Ut\\'ard  journey,  becd'steaks  and 
onions,  mutton  cho])s  and  new  potatoes,  and  Trass's  been-, 
f(jrnuMl  the  chi(d'  to])ics  of  conversation.  On  the  r(^tui'n  jom'- 
ney  they  were  scarcely  alluded  to.  HungcT  was  never  felt  ; 
but  we  wer(>  all  assailed  by  au  iirtcjlerable  thirst,  which  could 
only  !)■:'  a])peas(Hl  at  meal  times,  or  after  the  temperatuix^  was 
sufficiently  high  to  admit  of  (juenching  our  thirst  by  ])utting 
icicles   into  our  mouths." 

On  the  27th  of  May  the  condition  of  the  party  was  so 
critical  that  it  becriuu^  (wident  that  to  insuj'(>  their  reaching 
the  shi])  alive  the  sledges  imist  l)e  consider;ibly  lightened. 
Five  men  were  utterly  unable  to  mov(\  and  were  consecjuently 
carried  on  th(>  sledgvs,  fiv(^  more  were  almost  as  lud|jl(\-<s, 
but  insisted  on  h()b})ling  after  tlic  sledges.  'rhr(H'  others  were 
showing  decid(Ml  scoi'butic  symptoms,  leaving  orAy  two 
officers  and  tw(j  men,  who  could  be  consideinnl  effective. 

d^'i'ra  (ii'ma  was  rcniclH^l  on  AIa\'  ">,  but  the  ])arty  wei'e  in 
such  a  deplorabh"  condition  that  though  only  foi'ty  miles 
remained  between  (hem  and  the  shi])  \hc\v  ])!-ogress  was  so 
slow  thnt  it  wouidi  take  them  fully  three  weeks  to  cover  the 
distance,  ;ind  by  that  time  who  would  b(>  left  alive?  Assist- 
ance had,   ;  !ier(-lni'e,   to  b'(^  obtanu'd. 

"To  iH'i'Cwr'-  it,"  wj'iles  ('ommander  .Abu'kh;nu,  "om; 
aniong>t  ns  \^';i<  ivndy  ;ind  wiHinsi-  to  set  out  on  tin-  lonely  ;md 
sditary  nii--ion  with  the  lirni  reliimce  of  being  ;ibie  to  ac- 
com!)li>h   what    he   had   undei'taken,  and   with  the  knowledge 


ALllEllT   II.    MARK II AM,    F.  11.  C.  S  323 

that  lie  ])oss(\ss(hI  tho  full  confidence  of  those  for  whose  relief 
h("  was  al)()uT  to  start  on  a  lon^ii;  and  hazardous  walk.  On  the 
7th  of  .June,  J/ieutenant  Parr  started  on  his  arduous  march  to 
the  shii).  Di'cp  and  heartfelt  were  the  ( iod-sjjceds  uttered 
as  !h>  took  his  departure,  and  anxiously  was  his  retreating 
form  watched  until  it  was  gradually  lost  to  sight  amitlst  the 
iuterminalile  hummocks." 

'V\\o  following  day  one  of  their  number  (HcmI,  and  was 
huricnl  near  !)y.  The  saddcmed  and  sutVei'ing  i)arty  now  left 
this  (l(\s()late  s])ot  and  mad(^  an  attem])t  to  push  on  toward 
the  slii]). 

"On  the  morning  of  the  9th/'  writ(\s  Alarkliam,  "a  rainbow 
was  s(H'n,  which,  b(>ing  an  unusual  sight,  alTorded  much 
interest.  On  the  same  day,  shortly  after  the  march  had  been 
comuK-nced,  a  moving  objcu't  Avas  suddenly  s(Mai  ainidst  the 
hummocks  to  tiie  southward.  At  fii'st  it  was  regardcMl  as  an 
optical  illusion,  for  we  could  scai'cely  realize^  thc^  fact  that  it 
c((ul(l  l)e  ;ui;\ "body  from  the  Alert.  \\"\X\\  wluit  inten<(>  anxi- 
(^t\'  this  object  was  r(\gar(l(Hl  is  beyond  descri])tion.  (iradu- 
ally  emei'ging  from  the  hummocks,  a  hearty  clieei' ])ut  an  (Mid 
to  tli(>  susi)ejise  that  was  almost  agonizing,  as  a  dog-sledge 
with  th.ree  men  was  seen  to  b(^  aj)|)roaching.  A  cheer  in 
n^turn  was  attempted,  l)ut  so  full  wer(^  our  hearts  tliat  it  re- 
semltled  n)ore  a  Avail  tlian  a  cheei'.  li  is  in!j)ossib!(>  to  desci'ibe 
our  feelings  as  .May  and  Moss  catne  wy,.  and  wv  received 
from  them  a  warm  and  lu^irty  A\'elcom(\  We  felt  that  wv  were 
saA'cd,  and  a.  feelitiu;  of  thanld'ulness  and  gi'atitvide  was  u])]ier- 
]n()sl  in  our  minds,  'is  v,-e  sjiook  tl:e  liands  of  those  v.'ho  had 
huri'ied  (lul  to  ouj-  relief  tlie  moment  tii;;!  Parr  had  conveyed 
to  liiem  itiir-Higence  of  our  di>tr(~ss.  Thost>  who  a  few  sliort 
moment--  before  wei'c  in  tlie  lowest  depths  of  (les])ondeuc\- 
ap[)eared  i]o\\'  in  the  most  exuberaiil  >])iii!s.  bain  was  dis- 
regarded ami  'ai'dsliips  wow  loriiotten  a-  nnnierous  and. 
varied  (|Ue-i;oi!;.  wece  asked  and  an>wered. 


3"24  THE   CHEAT    WHITE  JS'OETIl 

''W(>  lu'jird  with  (l('li,<i;lit  that  they  w(>re  only  the  vanguard 
of  a  hirt!,('!'  ]>arty,  headed  by  Captain  Nares  himself,  that  was 
eoniiuii;  out  to  our  r(4ief,  and  which  we  should  probably 
in(Hi  on  the  following;-  day.  A  halt  was  immediately  ordered, 
cookinji;  utensils  lii^hted  up,  ice  made  into  water,  and  we  wer(> 
soon  all  enjoyinj;  a  ji;ood  i)annikin  full  of  lime-juice,  with  the 
prospcH't   of  mutton   for  suppcM' ! " 

On  th.e  14th  (.)f  June,  after  s(>venty-two  days  of  travel  and 
hardshi]),  CoimnaniUa'  Alai'kham's  ])ar1y  reached  th(>  AlcrL 
Out  of  hftecai  nam,  one  had  gone  to  his  long  home,  (^leven 
others  were  carried  alongside  tlu^  ship  on  sl(Hlg(\s,  the  remain- 
ing three  bar(4y  al)l(>  to  hobble  aboai'd. 

"A  more  thorougli  brealc-u])  of  a  la^dthy  and  strong  body 
of  men  it  would  be  diffieailt  to  conceive,"  conmients  Alarkham. 
"Xot  only  had  the  men  engaged  in  tlie  (wtendcnl  ])ai'ty  und(M' 
my  command  Ixhmi  attacked  with  scurvy,  but  also  those  who 
had  been  al)sent  from  the  slii])  only  for  short  pfTiods,  and  somc^ 
Avho  ma\'  b(^  said  ncH'ci'  to  !iav(^  k^ft  the  ship  at  all,  or  if  they 
did,  ()nl\-  for  two  or  three  days  !  The  seeds  imist  hav(~  been 
sown  during  th(^  time,  nc^ai'ly  five  months,  that  the  sun  was 
abs(Mit,  jind  we  were  in  darkness." 

The  serious  condition  of  t!ie  crew  of  the  Alc/i  determined 
Oa])tain  Xai'e-^  to  j)ublicly  aimounce  on  tlie  Kith  of  June  that 
immediately  upon  the  r(*turn  of  tlu^  other  sledge  ])arties  he 
would  rejoin  the  Ih'sconri/,  transfer  all  the  invalids,  and  send 
tli(>  <\u])  h()m(\  Tlie  .  !/{/■/  would  remain  a  seu'ond  wintei'  at 
I'oi'l  i''oulke,  and  in  the  s])ring  sledge  part  ies  would  endea\'- 
o:ir  to  explore  llay-^  Sound  and  the  adjaceiU  lands,  aftei" 
wliieh  the  Ah.rl  would  r(Mui'n  to  I'Jigland.  Th.is  cheerful 
news  did  much  lo  I'estore  the  inx'alids  to  con\ale>cence,  and 
inimedlinti  ly  .a  change  fo.'-  the  belter  was  notic(>d  among  all 
hand--. 

( 'on.-iderabl!'  anxiety  was  felt,  howe\'ei',  for  Lieutenant 
Aldi'icir.-  [)ar!y.      Although  hi-  route  wa-  along  the  coa-<t-line, 


ALBERT  U.    MAUKllA.\t.    F.  It.  C  S.  825 

and  it.  was  1io]mmI  that  a  su))])ly  of  hares,  .^ccsc,  and  p('rhai:)S 
in\isk-()X(Mi  niiii;ht  occasionally  he  sc-curcd,  every  one  knew 
that  his  >ui)pl\'  of  provisions  was  all  but  cxhau.-lcd,  and  for  the 
})ur))o>('  (.)f  his  relief  a  ])art\'  of  three  men  under  Lieutenant 
^Ia\'  left  the  shi])  June  18. 

The  intervenin.ti;  time  until  Sunday,  June  2."),  was  one  of 
gr(>at  concern  to  all  on  b(jard  ;  on  that  da\'  the  wanderers 
were  seen  stru^'<>;lino-  through  the  hummocks  some  six  or  seven 
miles  off.  A  relief  party  innnediately  left  the  ship  and  Ijrought 
the  men  on  board.  All  but  two  were  sulfering  from  scurvy. 
Only  Lieutenant  Aldrich  and  two  men  were  able  t(j  walk  along- 
side the  shi|),  and  one  of  th(\'^e  was  in  a  critical  condition  for 
many  weeks  after.  The\'  had  been  absent  from  tlie  ship 
eighty-h)ur  days,  having  ex])lored  tW(.)  lumdred  twenty 
miles  of  new  coast.  Passing  ( 'a})e  ( 'olumbia,  83°  07'  X., 
Lieutenant  Aldi'ich  I'cacluMl  his  farthest  point  on  the  18th  (jf 
May,  1870,  in  82=  10'  X.,  80=  W.,  at  Cape  Alfred  Ernst. 

It  now  became  the  ardu(jus  woi'k  of  the  few  members  of  the 
ship's  com])any  wiio  were  in  good  health  to  mini.-ter  to  the 
numerous  in\-alids,  ])r('pare  the  shi])  tor  lea\'ing  winter  quar- 
t(>rs  as  soon  as  the  ice  would  permit,  and  make  hunting  trip> 
in  search  oi  fresh  meat,  ^o  essential  t(j  the  cure  of  scurv\' 
l)atients. 

On  the  31st  of  July,  a  fresh  southwestei'ly  wind  had  blown 
the  pack  off  the  shore,  a  clear  clianui'l  of  (jpen  water  to  the 
southward  was  hailed  with  delight,  the  thi'obbing  of  The  oi\- 
gine>  told  t];e  men  that  libei'ation  was  ;i.t  hand,  and  tlu'  /\l(ii 
bade  farewell  to  her  nortliern  home.  Progress  was  slow,  aii'l 
tlu'catened  ■'■ni])s"'  in  the  short  journey  to  the  Dl-^cnrcrji  tri(Ml 
the  jxitience  of  the  crew,  but  on  AuL;;ust  ."),  while  yet  twenty 
miles  distant  fi'om  th(>  sister  shi]~),  Piiwson  and  two  of  tlu' 
men  of  the  Discdfcri/  came  on  Ijoard. 

"We  were,  of  course,  delighted  to  see  them  and  to  hear 
news  of  ou!'  con.-ort,"  writes  ("onunander  Arai'lvhaiii.      "  l'"rom 


•yio 


THE  ciiLAT  wiiiri-:  .xoirni 


thctii  w<'  Iciinit  1iuit  ])()()r  I\a;crt()n  li;ul  lost  his  ■\^'ay,  ami  did 
tiol  arrixc  on  hoai'd  their  sliip  until  ai'tcr  he  had  hccn  vraiulcr- 
iuL!,'  al»(»ut  for  ('iti,ht('(ii  hours!  'J'hc  news  froiu  the  Discorcry 
was  what  we  l'oai'('(|.  Xot withstanding  th(>  large  amount  of 
nui.-k-ox  flesh  ])rocure(l  hy  them  during  the  atitmmi  and 
h)ilowing  sumnuM-,  scurvy  had  attack(>d  her  crew  in  almost 
the  same  \-irulen1  manner  as  it  liad  ours.  Idie  retm'n  j(jur- 
neys  of  some  of  their  sledge  pailies  were  sim])ly  a  re})etiti()ii 
of  our  own.  l>eaumont"s  divisicju  —  the  (jne  exploring  the 
northwestern  coast  of  ( li'eeiiiand  —  had  suffeixMl  \-er\'  severely, 
and  we  lieardi  with  extreme  i'(\gi'(>t  th.at  t^^'0  of  his  small  ])arty 
had  suc(aunb(>d  to  this  terrioie  diseas(\  I'he  r(>st  of  liis  men, 
with  himself  and  Dr.  Coppinger,  had  not  yet  I'etuiiKHi  to  the 
hiscoraij^  luiving  remained  in  Polaris  Bay  to  recruit  tlu^ir 
healths.  Th.is  wa.s,  indiMMl,  a  hitter  ending  to  our  s])riiig 
ca!nj)aign,  on  which  we  liad  all  set  out  so  full  oi  enthusiasm 
an<l  hope.  Il  had  the  elTecl,  hov\'e\-er,  of  condlrming  Captain 
\ar(  s  in  his  r(\<olution  to  }ri'oc(n'd  to  hjigiand." 

^riie  excelieni  woi'h  don(>  l;\'  the  sledging  j)ajlies  from  th(> 
Discorvrij  ma}'  he  sumnu^d  \i\)  ;is  follows  :  Lie-ulenaiit  Archer 
had  made  a  ih.oi'ough  surx'eyof  Ai'chei' Fioi'd  :  ])i'.  ( '()])])ingi-r 
had  \'i>;ted  T'et'-rmann  i'lni'd,  and  i.ieutenant  L.  A.  ]>eaumont 
made  extenr-i\('  exj)li)i'at  ions  of  the  (Ji'eenlan'l  coast.  11(^ 
ha,d  ti'a\elled  lo  Iv;  pul:-e  IJai'hour,  following  th.e  coast  to 
('ape  hh'va.nt,  |)ushing  his  way  a.cross  Sherai'd  ()s!)orn  i'ioi-d, 
he  !!:i!l  left  ;;ll  hui  one  xuv.w  to  !ecup(M'atv'  and  1ra\'elled  with 
his  >ing|i'  coiMpaui' )!!  as  !';!;■  du  the  tTi^'^M'n  sii()r(>  as  S2"'  20'  X., 
')\'  "W.,  which  he  !'('ac!i<'d  .\;a_^v-  _(),  hSTii.  The  rei;irn  journey 
was  a  fight'  foi'  life  ai':a!'i--t  the  encroaclnniMsls  of  scur\-y  ; 
a  n'icf  p,;n'ly  under  Lic.ii  euant  Hawsoii  and  Hr.  ( 'op])iii'.ier 
s,i\-(d  the  ])arly.  hwl  \w<  men  died  at  Hall's  old  (piarters  at 
Tliank  (  *.i)(!   !  hiriKir. 

'I'hc  t\\^')  -hi])-  now  i'( -ii'ipt  the  ,i:;()od  (i'dil  aii'ainst  the  ic(> 
OM   thi'ir  hfiiiuward  joiwney,  hormg,  charging,  and    towing  as 


yiro  voy.K^Es  of  the  -  pam)()iia"  827 

occasion  rc(|uirc(l.  "It  was  wilii  no  small  amount  of  thank- 
fulness."  A\'i'itcs  Markliam,  "that  on  the  !)th  of  S('])tcmhor 
we  (-mcrii-cd  fi-om  x\\v  cold  j^rim  clutches  tliat  sccnied  only  too 
I'eady  to  detain  us  for  another  winter  in  the  realms  of  tlie  Ice 
Kim;-,  and  that  we  I'elt  our  shij)  ris(>  and  fall  once  uk^'c  on  the 
l)os(,ni  of  an  und(Kil)te(l  ocean  swell." 

( )n  the  2!)th  of  October,  1S7G,  the  two  ships  reached  Queens- 
towti,  ha\'in<i'  ])as>ed  the  Pajuhrrd  in  mid-ocean.  The  two 
V(»\'a,u('s  of  this  ji'alLint  little  shij^  will  now  be  taken  up. 

"ddie  objects  of  the  first  voyage  of  the  Pcni(hir<i  in  1875," 
^\'rites  Sir  Allen  Young,  ''were  to  visit  the  western  coast  of 
(Ireerdand,  thence  to  proceed  thr(jugh  Baffin  Sea,  Lancaster 
Sound,  and  r>arrow  Strait,  towards  the  Alagnetic  Pole,  and 
if  ])ra('ticable  to  na\'igate  through  the  Xorthwcst  Passage  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean  in  one  season.  As,  in  following  this  route, 
the  Pa/irlora  would  ])ass  King  ^^'illianl  Island,  it  was  proposed, 
if  successful  in  reaching  that  locality,  in  tlie  sununer  season 
when  the  snow  was  off  the  land,  to  make  a  se;u'ch  for  further 
I'ecords  and  for  the  j<;urnals  of  the  shijjs  Krdjii-s  and  TciTor." 

The  Panihrni  was  rigged  as  a  bark(>ntine,  and  cariied 
eight  boats,  including  a  steam  cutter  and  three  wliale-])oats. 
Her  officers  and  crew  numb(>re(l  thirty-one  invw,  with  ( 'aptain 
Young  in  C(Mnmandi.  Idu-  expenses  of  the  ex])e(lii  ion,  and  the 
]')urcha--e  and  e(;uipment  of  tlie  Ptn/flor'!.  were  und(a'1aken  by 
Sir  Allen  Younu;.  a.>-i.-ted  by  contributions  fi'(jm  Lady  I'ranklin 
and  Mr.  Jame-  0(jrdon  P>ennett,  who  was  second  in  connnand. 

On  tlie  27; h  of  .]\uu'.  1^7.').  the  Pin/'lnrd  s;iil(vl  from  Plym- 
oulh.  and  by  July  10.  >tood  in  latitude  oS'^  .")S'  X.,  longitude 
;■)]  '  .'!:■]'  W.:  by  the  2st  h  of  July  the  first  icebergs  were  en- 
countered. The  foUowinii.-  da.y  tiiey  saw  the  fir-t  S])ilzber<i.'en 
ic:-.  At  noon  the  -ame  d;iy  the  hmd  ab'out  ("at)e  Desolation 
couiil  be  jtl'dnly  seen  whenever  the  f()^■  lifted. 

Soon  aftei'  they  stood  off  the  oitrance  of  Ai'<uk  Fiord; 
ihi-  co;i--t  is  tile  !]'(  sf  Ijijijd  of   tlie  ancient  X'or>e  colouizers  of 


■]-2>)  Tin-:  (;iiKAT  wiiitk  xortii 

Greenland,  and  mvir  Arsuk  was  the  old  Xorse  church  of  Stcin- 
iials.  "Idu^  ^\i^(Jl(>  coast/'  writes  Captain  Voung,  "from 
S.  E.  to  X.  X.  E.  stood  Ijcfoi'c  lis  like  a  panorama,  and  the  s(>a 
so  calm,  and  everything  so  >till  and  peaceful,  excepting  now 
and  then  the  rumbling  of  an  overtiu'ning  l)erg,  or  the  distant 
(U'ho  of  the  flo(\s  as  they  ])resse(l  togetlier  to  seaward  of  us, 
tliat  it  almost  seemed  lil^e  a  transition  to  some  (jther  world." 

At  Irigtut,  where  the  Pnndorfi  \)\it  in  to  coal.  Captain 
Young  ha<l  the  ])leasure  of  \'isiting  his  old  sliij),  tlic  Fox. 
At  Irigtut  aho  are  located  the  famous  cryolite^  mines,  dis- 
co\'ei'e(j  by  the  Dani-h  mi>sionar'i(.'S  who  first  sent  s})ecimens 
to  C(j])enhagen  as  ethnograj)hical  curiosities.  The  cryolite 
i>  found  near  the  shore,  resting  innncMliately  u])on  gneiss. 
The  ])ure<t  is  of  snow-white  cohnu',  tiie  grayish  white  variety 
being  second  in  (juaht}'.  It  nuich  resembles  ice  wliich  has 
been  curvedi  and  grooved  ])y  the  action  of  the  stm's  rays  ;  its 
com])on('nt  ])arts  are  doulde  hydi'ofhiate  of  soda  and  alumina. 
It  mebi>  like  ice  in  the  lhim(M>f  a  candle,  and  it  is  used  iprinci- 
pally  for  malving  s(jda,  also  for  ])i-('i)a!'ing  aluminum. 

The  Pdhilij/'O.  was  higlily  favou.red  by  the  singularly  open 
coridiliidi  of  Alek/ille  Ikiy  ;  bergs  ])i-oved  ])lentiful,  buit  no 
di'(-aded  ice-fioe  impeded  her  ])rogi-e-s.  A  cliauge  in  the  ice 
c(;i;dition<  wa-  hr>t  noticeal)le  while  off  the  Cary  Islands. 
.\iid  upon  lc;iv!ug  tlie  i-knids  and  ]")r()C(>cding  toward  Eaucaster 
Sound,  tlie  I'lnidDra  fell  in  with  1  h.e  ice  tlie  2()t}l  of  AugU>t 
■\\Eil('   l\'iiig  about    lhirt\"  miles  ea>t   of  ('ajX'   Ilor-burgli. 

■'Thri'i"  bc;u's  being  <{:v]\  on  the  ic(\"  writes  C;i])iain 
'\'oU!ig,  ■■TA\'ent  aAV;i\' in  t  he  ,-econd  cutter  with  I'irie  and  I k^y- 
ue!i,  and  aiker  -hootina,'  1  he  old  >he-bear  and  one  cub  we  ^uc- 
(•!■(■( ied  in  u'eltina  a  I'ope  .'U'ound  the  larger  cub  and  loAving  him 
to  tiie  --hip.  Xow  beu;ni  a  m,o-1  li\'el>'  scene,  "idie  be;u'  was 
alnio-t  full  gi'own,  ;i!id  \\  w\\<  with  .<onie  difiicult\'  we  got  him 
on  b(i;;!-,i  ;in(l  ti('(|  dow-ii  llie  I'i  n 'J, -bol  t  <  wiih  hi-  iiind  leg<  se- 
enreil  ;    ;uid  noi  wit  h-l  audin"'  this  i'ouu;h  ti-eatment  he  r^hov.'cd 


TWO    VOVACKS    OF   TILE   "■  PAN  DOHA"  -520 

most  wonderful  (MU'ri;y  in  tn'ln<i;  to  attack  any  one  who  came 
within  r(>ach,  and  c^spcciaHy  our  do<>;s,  who  seemed  to  deh<i;ht 
in  1r}ing  liis  temper.  \\v  was  at  last  secured  on  the  (quarter 
deck  witli  a  chain  round  his  neck  and  under  his  fore  arms,  and 
soon  l)e<i;an  to  feed  ravenously  on  —  I  am  sorr}'  to  have  to 
write  it  —  his  own  mother,  who  was  speedily  cut  up  and  i)ieces 
of  her  (lesh  thrown  to  my  new  shi})niate.  I  liopc^  tliat  he; 
was  only  an  adopted  child,  and  the  great  diffcn'ence  l)etwe(Mi 
him  and  the  oth(>r  cul)  warranted  this  sup])osition,  as,  ])ein,<>; 
tln-ee  timcvs  the  size  of  the  other,  he  could  not  have  been  of  tlie 
same  littcn-."  A  few  days  later  we  read,  "Our  ntnv  shi])mate, 
tlu^  hear,  made  desperate  struggles  to  get  over  the  rail  into  th(^ 
sea,  ])ut  the  cliain  was  tightened,  and  at  last  he  went  to  sle(>p." 

On  the  2od  of  .Vugust,  a  l)arrier  of  ice  across  Lancastt^' 
Sound  ol)lig(Nl  Captain  Young  to  retrace  his  ste])s.  Snow, 
sleet,  ;uid  wind  prevaikMl  as  they  scudded  onward,  an  ice 
blink  fr(M|U(^ntly  alu^ad  ;  i\\o\\  the  inevitable  floe  in  streams 
and  loost^  piecc^s,  with  the  sea  dashing  over  them  as  tluy 
flew  betwecMi. 

■'  \\'hilc>  ^\•e  were-  in  this  situation,"  Captain  Young  observes, 
■'our  b(>ar  gradually'  worked  himself  into  a  state  of  frantic 
excitement  —  getting  up  to  th(>  rail,  ---  watching  the  floe-ice 
rapidly  dashing  ])ast.  our  side  -  and  in  his  attem])ts  to  get 
over  the  bulwarks,  \\q  ri^hniscHl  his  chain  until  it  was  evident 
that  in  a  few  moments  he  would  be  fr(>e,  wlu^ther  to  di\'e  ov(m-- 
board  oi'  to  run  aimick  among  the  watch  ai)p(>ar(>d  a  ([uestion 
of  doubt.  The  alarm  being  given  by  Piri(\,  who  was  writing 
up  the  deck  log,  rhe  watch  was  called  to  secur(>  the  l)ear,  and  I 
fear  tho.t  dui'ing  the  half  hour  whicli  ela])sed  the  ship  was  left, 
more  or  less,  to  take  care  of  herself.  The  whole*  watch, 
besides  Pii'ie  with  a  revolver  and  myself  with  a  crowbar, 
a^sauhed  i1k>  unfoi't imat!>  Bruin,  whose  frantic  struggl(>s  and 
<'nd(\v\-ours  to  attack  (>\-(M'\'  one  within  reach  were  ((uite  as 
nnich  as  w(*  could  control.      lie*  was  loose,  but  bv  a  fortunate 


;5:]0  THE  gjh:at  white  yoRTii 

event  a  ruuniiio;  noose;  was  passcnl  round  his  neck,  and  tli(^ 
poor  brute  was  hauled  dovni  to  a  rin,a;-})olt  until  we  could  s(S 
cure  the  chain  round  his  neck  and  body.  I  had  hitherto  no 
concei)tion  of  the  sti'cnt;-th  of  these  animals,  and  especiall}'  of 
the  power  of  their  jaws.  Fearin<>;  that  the  iron  crowbar  nii^'ht 
injure  his  teeth,  1  janinicd  a  niop  handle^  into  his  mouth  while 
the  otlun's  were  securin^u;  his  chain,  and  he  bit  it  completely 
throuii,h.  At  last  Brtiin  .u'avc;  in,  and  beyond  an  occasional 
struiit^le  to  ,a;ct  lo()S(>,  and  a  constant  low  <i,'rowlini2;.  he  jrave  us 
no  further  Irotiblc.  I  ouiiht  to  mention  that  in  the  midst  of 
the  scrinnnaii;e  the  Doctor  was  called  up  to  gi\'e  him  a  dose  of 
opiiuu,  in  the  h()])e  of  su!;duiii;j;  him  by  this  means;  but 
liavinii;  succeeded  in  f>;eitin,<i,'  him  to  swalhnv  a  piece  of  blul)ber 
saturated  with  chloroform  and  opium  sufHcient  to  kill  a  doz^ni 
men,  our  ]>ruin  did  not  aj)pear  to  have  experieea'cd  the; 
sli<i;htest  (effect,  and  the  Doctoi',  who  \'olunteered  to  I'cmain  uj), 
and  expressed  some  anxiety  as  to  the  bear's  fate,  retii'cd 
behjw  somewliat  disa})])ointed." 

Alakiniz;  liai'row  Strait  for  tlu^  ])ur{)()se  of  reachin^y;  I'fH'chey 
Island,  the  /^///^/o/v/  ])m'sued  her  cum's(>,  in  i'o.ii;  and  sno^\• ; 
Jicechey  Island  was  reached  on.  tlu^  2^)\\\.  (!oin<i-  on  shore-, 
Cai)tain  Youn,u;  and  two  ofiicers  insjjccted  the  statc^  of  ])ro- 
A'isions  and  boats  at  Xoi'llnunberland  House.  It  ^vill  be 
r(>m('mb(M'»'d  tliat  Xoj'thumlx'rland  II()U<(>  was  built  by 
("ommandcr  i'tdlcn  of  the  Xoiih  Slar,  which  wintereil  tliero 
in  1S.")2  IS,"):;  and  IS.").'!  IS.")  I,  as  a  dejjot  for  Sii'  I'Mward 
Px'lrlicr's  cx|)('dition.  Tiic  liou.se  was  built  in  the  fall  ol'  1S.")2, 
of  llie  lowc!'  ma--1s  and  spars  from  the  Americ;m  whaler 
McLilhm.  which  had  been  crushed  in  the  ice  in  Mel\-ille  P>ay 
in  IS."",-.^. 

('apl.'iin  VouitU'  I'ouikI  thai  the  house  had  been  sl()\(>  in  at 
l!ie  door  and  sicjes.  t »y  the  wind  and  by  beai's,  ami  alnieist 
e\-eryt  him:,'  li!.^hl  and  nio\ai»le  liad  been  blown  out  or  dra,ii'i!,('(l 
out   1)\-  trie  bears,  which  had  al-o  torn  up  all  I  he  ti)ps  (^f  thee 


7  iro    VUVACh'S    OF    THE   -  I'AMjOHA"  ool 

l)ul('s,  and  scattered  i\\o  contents  in  all  direc.'tions.  The  lioas(; 
^vas  nearly  full  of  ice  and  snow  frozen  so  hard  as  to  necessitate 
tlu;  use  of  pick-ax(^  and  crowbar  before  anything  could  be 
moved.  T'ea-chesls  and  beef  casks  had  been  Ijroken  o])en  and 
the  contcnils  scattt-red  or  devoured.  The  })lace  pi'csented  a 
scene  of  ruin  and  confusion,  although  thert;  werc^  no  traces  of 
the  place  having  been  visited  by  human  Ix'ings  since  the 
depaHure  of  Sir  Leopold  Al'dintock  in  the  Fox,  the  Itth  of 
August,  1853. 

A  cask  of  rum  had  remained  intact,  "a  conclusive  ]:)roof 
to  my  inind,"  writt'S  (,*aptain  Young,  "that  neither  Eskimo 
noi-  I)ritish  sailor  liad  entered  that  way."  The  boats,  however, 
wer(^  found  in  go(jd  condition,  and  had  escaped  the  ravages 
of  time  and  wild  animals. 

Weighing  anchor  the  Pandora  stood  to  the  southward  for 
VvxA  Strait.  Captain  ^'oung  A'isit(>d  a  cairn  in  whi(-h  a  rec(jrd 
liad  been  ])laced  by  Captain  James  C.  lioss,  7th  of  Jun(\,  1849. 

An.  attem])t  wtis  made  to  push  through  to  Jlellot  Strait, 
l)Ut;  ihe  fast  closing  in  of  the  ice  determined  Ca])taiu  Yoimg 
to  retreat  and  a!)a.ndon  his  chei'ished  hoix^  of  making  the 
]\'ortl\wesl  Passage  this  year.  A  race  with  the  ic(^  to  ('a])e 
Reimell  and  a  second  visit  to  the  C.'ary  L'-lands  j'csulted  in 
finding  a  record  left  th(>re  l>y  tlu^  Alcii  and  Discovrij,  which 
brought  glad  tidings  to  fi'iends  at  honi(\  V)\  the  11th  (jf 
Se])t(Muber,  t!ie  I'lnidora  lighted  (*a])e  Dudley  ]3igges,  about 
ten  inil(>s  distant,  ''tlie  wii;d  fr(\-]iening  to  a  gak>,  with  a  high 
flowiiig  sea.  wiiicli  fi'o/e  ;is  it  ln.])ped  our  sides.'" 

Cape  ^'ork  was  ])assed  the  next  day.  A  stormy  pa.-sage 
continued  to  harass  them  until  the  19th.  when  the  Pondurd 
r(viched  th(-  harbour  of  Codhaven.  After  a  hnxr  days'  stay 
at  Godluu'en.  slie  continued  in  \\vv  cotu'se  ;  on  the  1st  of 
Oi'tober  >\\{'  stood  soulliwai'd  of  the  ca])e,  steerinii;  dii-ect  for 
the  English  Cham)(d,  and  anchorcvl  ;it  S])ithead,  the  Kith  of 
Octobtu',  187."). 


THE  CllKAl'    WllLTE   SOiniL 


Tlu'  Pandora  put  to  sea  on  licr  second  voyage  from  \\\v, 
Southampton  Docks,  ]May  17,  187G,  for  the  tlouhle  ])urpose  of 
making  another  att(^m[)t  to  sail  through  Peel  and  Frankhn 
straits,  and  nax'igate  tlie  coast  of  Xorth  America  to  Behring 
Strait,  and  to  carry  out  the  instructions  of  tlie  Britisli 
Admiralty  in  an  attempt  to  conununicate  with  the  Alert 
and  Discorcrij,  at  Littleton  Island  or  ('a})e  Isabella.  Prcjceed- 
ing  under  sail,  she  reached  (iodhax'en  !)y  the  7th  of  July. 

Ilei'e  desolation  and  gloom  seemed  to  overwhelm  the  littk; 
settlcMuent.  owing  to  the  stoi'ehous(>  having  kurned  and  con- 
sumed tlie  (iitire  winter's  production  of  oil  and  l)lukber,  some 
two  hundred  t)arrels,  as  ^vell  as  all  the  stort'  belonging  to  the 
I'nited  St;ites  Polaris  expedition.  Such  a  disaster  to  tlie 
poor  ( lre(>nlanders  was  (juite  as  great  a  catastrophe  as  the 
burning  of  half  of  London  would  be  to  a  Britisher.  Iiow(>\'(^r, 
a  cordial  welcome  awaiteil  Cajjtain  Young  from  the  hospitalile 
natives,  and,  "In  fact,""  hewrit(\s,  "  w(Mhoi'oughly  enjoyed  our 
stay  in  poi't,  and  all  made  great  friends  with  the  ( Ireenkinders. 
The  onl}-  drawback  was  caused  b}'  the  (iuautiti(\s  of  tlie  most 
\'enomou<  mos(|uitoes  I  e\'er  saw,  and  they  did  theii'  \"ery  best 
thoroughly  to  toi'm(>nt  us.  I  ne\-ei'  in  an\'  climate  knew  such 
a  pe-t  as  Ave  found  thes(>  (Ireenland  nao<([uitoe-.  for  wherever 
we  went ,  either  oti  shon^  or  in  a  boat ,  and  even  on  board  shij), 
they  followeil  u-  persl>tently.  an.d  at  whate\-er  liour.  night  or 
da\'.  it  was  alw;i\'s  the  same.  T  was  this  time  moi'c  bitten 
t'lan  I  e\er  wa<  before.  .My  head  and  hand>  were  completel\' 
swollen,  and  one  of  my  (\\-e<  shut  U])."" 

(  )n  t  he  1  1 1  h  of  .hdy.  t  he  [■'nntlnrn  steamed  out  eif  '  'iodh;i\"en, 
in  the  direct  ion  of  \\  aigat,  making  a  brief  slop  ;it  Xj.'irag-ugs- 
■-uk,  and  [)UtlinL!.-  in  for  coal  at  Kudlie-t.  I>y  the  Kith.  >fi(^ 
stood  off  iiare  I-land,  and  two  (lay<  hit  el'  was  I'unnin.g  under 
canw'is  lowai'd-;  \  ])erna\'ik.  Lfvix'inu,'  on  the  l!Mh,  the  ,-hi]) 
])i-oceedcrl  -lowly  t'lronu'li  ;i  dense  fog  towiird  P)rown  I>l;.nd. 
d"he    l)uck    l.-land-   weiv   pa--e(l   on   the  iM-t.    tlie    fog  again 


TWO    ]-0)Mr,i-;.s   OF  THE   '•  J'AyJJOHA  o:]3 

nuul(^  ])r()_<i'i'('ss  (wti'cincly  (liUicult,  und  the  couiplication.s  of 
tiu)usuu(l>  of  icebergs,  of  every  conceivable  fcjnii  and  shap(,', 
intermingled  with  the  drifting  floes  of  ice,  almost  blocked  the 
wa\'  to  the  north. 

Tlie  following  days  were  passed  in  the  greatest  anxiety 
])y  Captain  Young.  The  Patidora  was  beset  in  the  ice-])ack 
of  .Mi'h'ille  Bay,  and  in  s])ite  of  blasting  with  gunpowder 
all  around  lun-,  v\'here  the  pressure  was  greatest,  the  enormous 
icebergs  dri\'ing  through  towards  her  position  threatened  her 
destruction  at  any  moment. 

On  the  20th  of  .Iul\-,  a  frightful  storm  disrupted  the  pack, 
and,  aft(M'  t^venty-four  h(jurs  (jf  unc(>rtaint\'  and  danger,  the 
pdiulnra  ste;uned  her  way,  inch  l:)y  inch,  yard  by  yard,  into  the 
ojx'u  sea.  ■'■  Cheers  l)urst  spontaneously  fr(jm  the  crew  as  wo 
L-uiucIkhI  out  into  the  ocean  and  made  all  sail  to  a  fair  wind 
from  ilie  S.  W." 

The  ■■'  Xortli  Water  "  at  last,  with  the  whole  season  ahead  and 
a  straight  course  for  Caj)e  York  and  the  Cary  Islands  ;  a  l)ri(>f 
,stt)p  to  examine  tlie  Fiindora'.-i  depot  of  the  previ(jus  year,  and 
by  August  2  the  ship  was  passing  west  oi  Hakluyt  Island.  A 
stop  was  made  at  >utherland  Island  for  the  purpose  of  finding 
any  despatches  from  Cajrtain  Xares  that  may  have  been  left 
thei-e,  but  only  Cai)tain  Ilartstein's  recoivl  was  found,  left 
therc^  August  1(3.  ISoo,  when  he  touched  at  this  p(jint  in  liis 
.seai'ch  foi'  Dr.  Kane. 

At  Liuleton  I.-land.  which  was  reached  August  3,  Captain 
\'(»ung  was  moi'e  successful,  and  a  record  Avritten  July  28,  ISTo, 
and  left  there  by  Ca])tain  Xai'cs.  gave  full  information  of  the 
P>rili<li  expedition  uj)  to  tliat  date.  As  it  was  (>vident  that 
no  sledging  ])arty  hail  touched  at  tliat  point  in  the  si)ring, 
Ca])tain  Young's  mi-<ion  Ava<  ov(M'.  and  he  turned  his  atten- 
tion to  tlic  main  object  of  his  voyage,  that  of  attem])ting  the 
Xo!'thwe<t  ]'a-<;i2,-e 'vV/  ]^•^!  "^trait.  ]^i'e\'ious  to  wViich.  how(>\-er. 
hi'  lujide  an  exaiuination  of  tlie  bays  and  ink^ts  between,  Litth.^- 
tou  l<la!'d  and  Car)e  Alex;'uder. 


>v>   1 

<-j4 


THE  GliKAT    WHITE   SOilTII 


T<nic!iirm'  ;it  Cape  Isabella,  Licutf'nants  Arl)utlniot  and 
Bccl-ccr  laiulc'l  and  louiid  a  second  c(jnununicat  ion  from  ( 'ap- 
Tain  Xare-.  left  ilicrc  July  2i),  L^7o.  LcUcr.s  lur  the  Alrii  and 
Discnn  i-'j  ami  a  record  i)i  the  I'a ntlDrn' s  x\<\\  were-  de])o>ited 
at  this  pcjint.  A  second  attempt  to  reach  (.'ape  I>abella  tor 
the  i)urpo-e  of  a  more  thor(jiiu'h  examinatitjn  of  a  ca-k, 
(le.-cril)ed  !  ly  tlie  first  landiin,u'  party,  and  supjx^-ed  by  Captain 
Youn,a;  to  contain  letter.-  or  despatches.  re>ulte(l  in  the 
Pn/tilorti'.-:  spending  three  weeks  in  a  .-iruugle  witli  the  ice 
for  an  approach.  When  ('ape  Isabella,  ^\•as  finall}'  reaclied, 
after  (U:\-.-  of  delay  and  di-ajipointment,  thc>  ca-k  which  had 
can-ed  -o  nmcli  anxiety  and  intere-t  wa,-  fotnid  to  be  (■ni])ty. 

So  much  time  luid  been  lo-t  in  the  disappointing  effort  to 
r(-acli  ('ape  I-abella.  thai  t!ie -ca.-on  was  far  ad\-anced.  an<l  tiie 
Pniidiirf!  found  herself  in  a  mo-i  critical  })(j>ition  in  the  icc- 
paclv.  To  pioceed  northwarbi  had  bfM-ome  out  of  the  (jUe-tion. 
by  the  27th  of  Auu'u.-t.  and  furiou-  .-'onus  lite'"al!y  d;'o\-e  \\,i^ 
^hip  out  of  Smitli  Strait  to  the  .-ou'hwai'd.  ( 'aptain  I'oun.u'.s 
])ei--oual  di-:i.])poinlment  at  the  turn  of  affair-  w;i-  only  -ui'- 
[)a--ed  by  the  dh-ai)i)ointment  of  tiie  cr('W,  avIio.  after  the  Puf- 
fei  iuLi'  and  rianger  of  tlicir  I'ecerd  expf^rii-ucc.  showeii  an  ea,Li''-r- 
nes-  to  I'i-k  j)a--hn-i-  .a  wiiiK']-  in  ^rim-  >\i\vs  i;arl)our.  The  pack 
gi'ab.ually  recidei}  as  tlie  Pf.'//'h'ra  made  Icr  vray  toward,  llalv- 
luyl  I-laii'l,  aid  tlie  w:iy  wa-  (.dear  for  an  i;uni'-diale  return  to 
Kimlaiid.  The  (j]iiy  im])ortant  inciijeui  ef  the  I'eturn  \'oyaue 
Wa-  ihe  mi'diiio-  \vi\]i  the  .!/.'/■/  and  1  j>.'^ciir(  ;■;/  in  lalitubie  ,"  P 
:W  X..  lomritude  !!'  :-Si)'  \V.  Tlie  eallanr  lirtle  I',i/,'lnni. 
con*  inuiuu'  in  iwr  cou!'-e.  made  Port-mouth  harb;.)ur  on  the 
'.ll  <>\    Xovembe;-.    1^7i). 

I-oJl(,wiim-  ii!  chronolo'iical  order  the  interesling  voyaue.- 
of  ;he  I'uh'lnrn.  liut  of  a  i"':i!l\-  (riff'^'reiit  c!:;iracler  wa.-  bhe 
re'iriiT.'dT'  !aU<l  itiU-'lwy  ef  (,.-i'!'  wvn  i'hou-and  ei'^hl  buii- 
(bvd     nilM'Ti'i'l!     tre- i^r;;j)i:ic:;  !     nii'i--     i  I y    l.ieiil  eiiallt     >':;W;idca. 

I'.^.    \..   wile    W.    II.    (dld^r,    •!)    !he    \aar-    ,  m'    lN7s-ls7!t, 


scinwirhA's  search  for  franklix  rfcords     ooo 

uiulrrLakcu  for  the  puiposc  of  (li^icovi'ring  the  Fr;inklin 
r('c<ji'ds,  should  they  still  exist  on  Jviiig  William  Land,  or  in 
the  \'ieiuity  of  the  route  taken  by  the  survivors  of  the  Krehus 
and  Terror. 

Lieut(Miant  Frederiek  Selnvatka  was  of  Pfjlish  d(>se(>nt, 
American  by  bii'th,  and  had  served  with  distinction  in  the 
Third  (Rivalry.  His  daring  and  courage  led  liim  io  a  desire 
for  Ai'ctic  adventure,  and,  having  secured  leav(>  of  absence 
from  the  government  and  the  su})})ort  of  the  National  Geo- 
gi-ai)hic  Society,  lie  left  Xew  York  on  the  lOth  of  June,  1S78, 
in  the  Ediier,  with  four  companions,  tmder  the  following 
instructions  :  — 

"I/pi^n  y(jur  arrival  at  Rejiulsc^  P^^iv,  you  will  prepare  for 
your  inland  journey  by  building  your  sledges  and  taking  such 
pi-o\-isic)ns  as  are  necessary.  As  soon  as  suflicient  snow  is  on 
the  ground,  you  will  start  for  King  ^^'illiam  Land  and  the  Gulf 
of  iioothia.  Take  daily  ot)servati(jns,  and  whenev(^r  you 
discover  any  error  in  any  of  the  charts,  you  will  corr<'ct  the 
same.  Whenever  you  shall  make  any  n('W  discoveries,  you 
will  mark  the  same  on  the  charts  ;  and  ijnportant  discoveries 
I  d('-irt>  to  b(>  named  afti^r  tlu^  Hon.  Cliarle-;  P.  ])aly  and  his 
estimable  wif(\  Ah's.  ALu'ia  Daly.  Any  recoi'ds  you  nuu'  think 
neccssaiy  for  you  to  leav(.^  on  tlic  ti'i]),  at  such  ])laces  as  you 
tiiinlc  best,  you  will  mark  "  Esther  Franklin  Ai'ctic  Search 
Part\'.  Fre  Icrick  Schwatka  in  connnand  :  (\i\\i\  longitude, 
and  latitude  ;  to  })e  dii'ected  to  the  Presid(>nt  of  the  National 
Geoii'rai^jhlc  Socii'ty,  Xew  York,  I'nited  StatC'S  of  Am(M'ica. 
Sliould  you  be  fortunate  in  finding  tlie  records,  remains, 
or  i'(>lics  of  Sir  John  Franklin  or  his  unforturiate  ]iarty,  as  I 
have  hnp;'s  you  will,  you  will  kee]i  tlu^na  in  youi'  or  Joe's  con- 
trol. aii;l  tl!(>  contents  th(M'(M)f  shall  be  ke]^t  s(>ci'et.  and  no  ])art 
tb.ei'eof  di'stroy(Hl,  tam])er('d  with,  or  lo>t.  Sliould  you  find 
the  reniaiii-;  of  Sir  .John  r^ranklin  or  auy  of  his  ]);u'ty,  you  will 
take  the  sam(\  have  them  ])roi)erly  taken  care  of,  and  bring 


oob  THE   CHEAT    WHITE  NOIITII 

them  with  you.  ^J'he  carpenter  of  the  Esther  will,  before  you 
start  on  your  sledge  journey,  prepare  boxes  necessary  for  tiu^ 
care  of  relics,  reinains,  or  records,  should  you  discover  the 
same.  Whatever  you  may  discover  or  obtain,  you  will  deliver 
to  Captain  Thomas  F.  Barry,  or  whoever  shall  l.)e  in  command 
of  the  schooner  Esther  or  such  vessel  as  may  be  despatched 
for  you.  You  are  now  provisioned  for  eighteen  months 
for  twelve;  men.  I  shall  next  spring  send  more  ])rovisions  to 
}'ou,  so  that  in  the  event  of  \-our  trip  being  prolongcnl,  you  shall 
not  want  for  any  of  the  necessaries  of  life.  You  will  be  careful 
and  economical  with  your  ])rovisions,  and  will  not  let  an}-- 
thing  be  wasted  or  destroyed.  Sliould  the  expedition  for 
which  it  is  intendcnl  prove  a  failure,  make  it  a  g(;ographical 
succi-ss,  as  you  will  be  compelled  to  travel  over  a  great  dvixl 
of  un(^x])lor(Ml  country." 

Winter  ([uarters  were  establish(Hl  at  Camp  Daly  o!i  tiie 
shor(>  ice  of  Hudson  Bay,  and  intercourse  k(^pt  up  among  Ww 
natives  of  Chesterfi(4d  Inlet,  for  \\\v  purpose  of  (^nlisting  th.eir 
supi)ort  on  the  sledge  journeys  ])lann(Ml  for  the  spring  and  to 
s(H'ure  all  available  information  regarding  Sir  John  I'l'aniclin 
or  his  unfortunate^  vvvw. 

\\y  the  1st  of  April,  the  sknlge  })arty  started  on  tlie  long 
march  towards  King  William  Land.  Licnitenant  Schwalka 
was  accompani(xl  by  the  origin;d  ])ai'ty  of  four  white  men 
and  fourteen  h'skimos.  The  sknls  Avere  drawn  by  forty-two 
dogs  ;  the  loads  aggregatcMl  about  five  thousand  ]M)unds  on  the 
day  of  starting,  consisting  larg(>ly  of  walrus  meal  for  the 
dogs,  a  lil)(M'al  e(|uipnient  of  guns,  aimnunition,  and  articles  of 
trade,  l)esides  tlu^  following  list  of  provisions  :  — 

]I)S. 

I  Lard  bn^ad oOO 

I'ork 200 

( "onipir--;cd  corned  t)(M>f 200 

(  '<irn  starch 80 


srilWATKA  S    SEARCH   FOR   FRAXKLIN    RFCORDH      Ooi 

Oleomargarine        4(J 

C;h(?ese 4U 

CoiTce 40 

Tea o 

Molasses       20 

This,  it  will  be  seen,  was  only  about  one  month's  rations  for 
se\-(>nteen  jx'ople,  antl  was,  in  fact,  nearly  exhausted  by  tlie 
time  the  party  reached  King  \\'illiam  Land.  Dependence 
was  placed  on  the  hunting  and  abundance  of  game;  ti\'e  hun- 
dred and  twenty-two  reindeer,  besides  musk-oxen,  polar  bears, 
and  seals  were  secured  in  the  course  of  the  entire  journey. 

Travelling  overland  to  the  Back  River,  the  party  experi- 
enced all  the  fatigues  incident  to  sledge  progress,  especially 
the  Americans,  who,  unaccustomed  to  long  marches,  suffered 
gri'atly  from  blistered  feet  and  nmscular  soreness.  The 
country  seemed  alive  with  game,  and  on  the  11th  of  ]\Iay 
s(>\'en  reindeer  were  killed  and  on  the  13th  as  nian\'  as  nine. 

The  nortliern  shore  of  the  Back  River  is  bounded  by  high 
hills,  almost  a  mountain  range,  and  inland  could  be  seen  rocky 
liills  piled  together,  barren  and  forbidding.  About  noon  on 
the  1  ttii,  the  party  came  tipon  some  freshl}'  cut  ])locks  of  snow 
turned  up  on  end.  —  a  sure  sign  of  natives  in  the  vicinity, — 
and  farther  on  f()ot])rints  in  the  snow  as  well  a<  a  cache  of 
mu<k-ox'meat.  I-^jlIowing  tlu^  tracks  after  breaking  cani]^  the 
ni'xt  day,  the  party  scjon  readied  several  iglfjo-.  and  conummi- 
C'ltion  wa-  immcnliately  established  with  the  inhabitants. 
The  chief  s])okes!iiari  was  an(  )kjo()Iik.  whowithhis  familx'com- 
priseil  all  tliat  was  left  of  tlu^  trib(^  which  foi'mei'l\' occu])ied 
tlie  westei'u  coast  of  Adelaide  Peniiisula  and  Iviuii'  William 
Land.  I'^rom  this  interesting  and  important  witness  UiUch 
information  about  tlu^  Fi'anklin  ])art\'  was  gained,  ^\'hen 
(luite  a  little  boy  he  had  seen  some  white  men  alix'e,  and  fi'om 
the  dc.-cri])tion  it  miglit  have  been  Lieutenant  Back  and  his 


;>J8  THE   GREAT    WHITE  NORTU 

party.  Year^^  later,  he  saw  a  white  man  dead  in  the  i)unk 
(jf  a  big  -iii]),  whieh  was  fruz('n  in  near  an  island  alj(jut  fi\'o 
miles  west  of  (  d'ant  Point  on  Adelaide  Penin:-ula.  lie  and  Ins 
s(jn  had  >een  the  tracks  oi  white  men  (jii  the  mainland.  The 
natives  had  Ixjarded  the  ship  at  intervals,  and,  not  kn(jwing 
Ikjw  to  use  the  do(jrs,  had  cut  a  hole  in  the  side  on  a  level 
with  the  ire  and  entered  for  tlie  purpose  of  stealing  wo(jd 
and  irc^n.  In  the  following  spring,  the  ship  had  hlled  with 
water  and  sunk.  There  were  evidences  that  people  had  lived 
aboard  the  ship,  a-  some  cans  of  fresli  meat  mixed  with  tallow 
were  found.  There  were  knives,  forks,  spoons,  joans,  cups, 
and  plates  aboard,  and  afterwards  a  few  articles  were  found 
on  shore  after  the  \'ess('l  had  gone  down. 

An(jther  nati\'e  described  seeing  two  boats  on  the  Back 
River  containing  white  men,  and  he  also  saw  a  ;-tone  nujnu- 
ment  on  Ahjntreal  Island  containing  a  ])Ocket  knife,  a  pair  of 
sciss(;rs,  and  >om(>  hsli  hooks,  but  no  pa])ers  (.)f  anydescri})tion_. 

After  an  encampment  of  two  days  and  a  half.  Lieutenant 
Schwatka  c(jntinu(Ml  his  j(jurney  accompanied  I)}'  some  of 
ttie<e  naii\'es  as  guides. 

In  nati\-e  ('ncamj^ments  l)e\'ond  Ogle  I'oint  and  Puchardson 
I^)int,  an  (dd  woman  wa-  found  who  ])roved  an  inleresting 
witne-<  :   -lie  had  been  one  (d'  a  party  who  had  met  some  of  the 
sin'\'i\'oi'-  of  the  Ert^)iis  ;uid  Tiu-rnr  on  \\'a-hinglijn  Way.     Slie 
de-cribe(l  >eeing  ten  white  meni  flragging  a  sledge  v.'ith  a  b'()ut 
on  it.      The  Iimiut<  enc;un])ed  near  the  white  men  and  stayei. 
in  their  C(i!ni)an\"  alnjut   fi\"e  days.      The  natix'e-  had  \\\\\c( 
some  -ea.l~  which  they  -luu'efl  witli  tluMvliite  men.      In  j'eturn 
t!ie  old  woman'-  ]in<b;in(l  had  Itecn  gi\-eii  a  knife  and  olhei 
articic-  now  lo-t .      The  wtiite  men  look'(vl  \-e''\-  tliin,  and  theit 
mouth-  Avere  dvy  and  hard  and  blacj^.     The  native>  mo\-(M 
oil.  bm    the   while   Jiicu   could    not    kee])   u])   Vv-itli    them,  am 
i'(-niaine(|  behind.      The  following'  -])ring.  the  oM  AVonian  h:e 
.-(■(■n  a  tout  standing  on  tla;  shore  at  the  head  oi  Teri'or  Pax 


.sr7/ir.t77vM*.S    SEARCH  FOR   FRAyXLIX    llECORDS      339 

111  it  were  (l(>a(l  bodices,  and  outside  were  otliors  covered  with 
sand.  There  was  no  ilesli  on  tlicin,  —  notliing  but  liones  and 
clotlies.  Al)out  the  tent  were  knives,  forks,  spoons,  watches, 
and  many  books,  Ijesides  clothing  and  other  jKU'sonal  articles. 

Lieutenant  Schwatka  visit(xl  the  cairn  erected  by  Captain 
llall  over  the  hones  of  two  of  Franklin's  men,  near  the  Pfeffer 
Kiver;  a  few  relics  were  gathered  uj)  in  the  vicinity  of  Ade- 
laide Peninsula,  one  a  bunk  fixture  with  the  initials  "L.  F." 
in  brass  tacks  upon  it. 

( 'apelliM'schel,  on  King  William  Island,  was  reached  in  June. 
Lieutenant  Schwatka  made  a  thorough  examination  of  the 
western  shore  of  the  island  as  far  as  Cape  Felix.  At  Cape 
Jane  Franklin,  Captain  Crozicr's  camp  was  found,  Avhere  the 
entire  company  of  the  tvro  abandoned  ships  had  remained 
some  time  ;  sti'ewn  al)out  Avere  many  r(dics  of  the  party  anrl 
the  grave  of  Lieutenant  Irving.  Cult  buttons  were  found 
among  the  rotting  cloth  and  mould  at  the  bottom  of  the  grave, 
and  u])on  one  of  the  stones  at  the  foot  of  the  grave  was  found 
a  silvcM-  medal,  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  with  a  bas- 
r(4ief  portrait  of  (u>orge  IV  surrounded  by  the  words  — 

Oeorgius  IIII,  D.  C  Rrittanniarum 
Rex,  1820 

and  on  th(>  reverse^  a  laur(-l  wr(>ath  suri'ounded  by 

Second  Mathematical  Prize,  Royal 
Xaval  C'ollege 
and  inclosing 

Awardtni  to  Jolin  Irving, 
Aridsummer,  LS30. 

Tn(>  remains  (,f  ],i(Mit(niant  hving  were  l^rought  home  for 

'ii'ii'ial  ill  l^diMhiiriili. 


;]4<i 


TiiK  cm: AT  wrriTE  yoirrii 


The  rccoi'd  (Icpo.-itcd  liv  ArCliiitock  (jii  llie  3(1  of  June, 
1>.V.),  wu.-  •d\>'~)  I'uuiid  :  iinich  (jf  it  wa<  illr^ihlc  and  the  cairn 
in  \\  liicli  it  liad  Ijccn  d('j)(jsit('<l  had  hccn  dcstroxcd  l.)\'  native^. 

The  return  from  Kin<^'  William  Land  was  started  Septem- 
her  ]*,).  It  will  he  I'cmemljei'ed  that  ioY  months  the  party 
had  sul)>i>Ted  eniirely  on  game  fcnmd  in  the  locality,  that 
their  original  su])pl\'  of  pro\isions  had  lasted  a  little  more 
than  thirty  day-,  and  that  the  return  Avas  in  the  face  uf  the 
fast  approaching  Vvinter.  F(jrtunately,  reindeer  were  seen 
dail\'  in  immense  lierds. 

"We  cut  (juantities  oi  reindeer  tallow  with  our  meat," 
remai'k>  ( lilder,  '"prohahh'  alxjut  half  our  dail\'  f(jod.  Break- 
fast is  eaten  raw  and  fr<jzen,  but  we  generally  ha\'e  a  warm 
nu'al  in  the  ex'cning.  Fuel  i-  hard  to  obtain,  and  con-ists 
entii'el}'  of  a  \'ine-like  mcj-s  called  ik-sh(>ot-ik.  lieindeer  tal- 
low is  abo  used  f(jr  a  light.  A  small  flat  stone  st'r\'es  for 
candle-sticl^,  on  wliich  a  lump  of  tallow  is  placed.  clo>e  to  a 
pifce  of  fibrou-  m(j>s  called  mun-ne.  which  is  useil  for  a  wick. 
d"he  tidlow  meltin.g  runs  down  ui)on  the  -tone  and  i-  imniedi- 
aii'l\"  ab-orbf-d  l)y  the  moss.  Tliis  niakes  a  ver\'  cheerfiil  and 
])ii'a-ani  li'iht.  but  i-  most  exasjX'i'ating  to  ;i  hungry  man, 
a.-  it  >mclb  cxactl;/  like  fr\'ing  nu-at.  1-^ating  such  ([Uantitie.- 
of  iailoA\'  i.<  a  great  bf-nefii  in  tliis  cliniate.  and  wo  can  ca-ilx'  -ce 
the  cifcct  of  it  in  tlie  C(.)mfort  with  wliich  wc  meet  t!;'"'  (-(/id."" 

Directing  hi-  coiu'se  t'jwartl  the  (  hv^at  li^li-ljac]-;  I{i\-cr, 
Liculcnant  ScliAvatka  began  its  ;i-cent  in  \o\'cmbt'r.  The 
C(jld  wa-  inten-e,  from  21)^  t(.)  70^  l)cl(jw  zero. 

■'A\'e  found  the  travelling  on  ]^)ack's  Pd\-er  mucli  more  to- 
ri iou-  than  Wc  had  ant  ici]")al  c(l."'  wi'ite-  (lilder,  "  owing  to  the 
b::!'c  ice  ]\\  the  \-icinit\'  of  the  o])(-n-wa1er  rajjid-  aiid  1hc  in- 
li-M-i'  cnM  v.-h!c!i  ].;cpt  the  air  hlled  with  mimite  ]);U't  icle- (jf 
i"e  from  ihe  fri-e/inu'  of  the  >ieam  of  tlie  opi-n  watei'." 

(  Ml  Di^ceiiiber  lN.  1s7s.  Lieuf'tntnt  Schwatka  decided  to 
abandon  tra\'el  on  the  (  Ireat   I-'i-h-liack  bix'er.  owiim'  to  tlic 


SCIIWATKAS    SEARCH  FOR   FRANKLIN   RECORDS     MX 

scarcity  of  game  in  the  vicinity.  The  Innuit  hunters  liaving 
reported  tlie  land  sledging  in  good  condition  toward  tlic 
soutlieast,  —  iiideed,  much  better  than  upon  the  river,  —  and 
indications  ]5ointing  to  an  aljundance  of  game  in  that  direc- 
tion, the  party  immediately  struck  out  for  Depot  Island. 

The  extreme  cold  experienced  at  this  period  of  the  journey 
was  trying  beyond  expression,  and  had  a  serious  effect  upon 
man  and  beast.  Even  iron  and  wood  were  affected,  strong 
oak  and  hickory  breaking  to  the  touch  like  icicles.  It  was  a 
matter  of  great  difficulty  to  keep  the  guns  in  working  order, 
and  the  war}-  game  would  hear  the  sound  of  the  crunching  of 
the  hunters'  tread  on  the  snow  at  long  distances. 

"I  have  frecjuently  heard,"  remarks  Gilder,  "the  crunch- 
ing of  the  sled  runners  on  the  brittle  snow — a  ringing  sound 
like  striking  bars  of  steel  —  a  distance  of  over  two  miles." 

The  mean  temperature  for  December  was  —50.4°  Fahren- 
heit, the  lowest  —09°  ;  on  January  3  the  thermometer  fell 
to  the  lowest  point  experienced  by  Lieutenant  Schwatka's 
party,  and  stood  at  —70°  in  tlie  morning  and  —91°  at  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  party  had  long  been  with- 
out tlie  fatty  food  so  essential  to  retain  bodily  warmth 
in  these  fearful  temperatures,  and  the  dogs,  although  fed 
upon  frozeri  reindeer  meat,  which,  however,  has  but  little 
nourislinumt  in  it  in  that  stat(^  for  cold  weather,  began  to 
sicken  and  die.  The  small  amount  of  blul:)ber  now  rc^naining 
o!ily  ser\-e(lfor  lighting  the  igloos  at  night,  and  a  cooked  meal 
could  oul\'  l)e  indulged  in  on  da^'s  when  the  party  remaininl 
in  cam})  and  could  gather  moss  for  fuel.  To  add  to  the  general 
misery  under  whicli  the  return  journey  was  continued,  wolves 
^\■e^e  frecjuently  met  with,  so  ravenous  and  Iwld  that  they  at- 
tacked the  dogs  for  the  purpose  of  eating  the  meat  thro^\^l 
out  to  them.     On  another  occasion:  — 

■'Toolooah  was  out  hunting  on  the  2o(l  of  Fel)ruary," 
writes   (!il(l(>r,    '"when   a  pack   of  about   twenty  wolves   at- 


312  THE   GREAT    WHITE  NORTH 

tacked  hini.  lie  junipiMl  upon  a  bio-  rock,  which  wa^  ?f)on 
surrounded,  and  th^rc  he  t'lnight  the  sa\'ag('  hca>lsolT  with  tlie 
butt  of  liis  ,uun  tnitil  he  ,ii;ot  a  sure  sliot,  wlien  he  kill(,'d  one, 
and  while  tlie  others  fou,u'ht  o\'er  and  devoured  the  carcass, 
he  inad(>  the  best  (;f  the  opjxjrtiuiity  to  get  back  into  cam]). 
It  was  a  nio>t  fortunate  escaj)!'.  as  he  fuUy  reahzed." 

T\v<jda\'s  later,  the  same  iiunter,  while  following  a  reindeer 
not  far  from  camp,  was  surprised  to  meet  another  Inntiit, 
wh(jm  lie  h)unjl  to  be  an  a'^iuaintance  :  from  this  man  he 
learned  that  Depot  L<land  was  about  three  da\-s'  journey  off. 
1-Jeturninti;  to  cam])  with  this  haj)})y  intelligence,  it  was  decidrnl 
to  ])u-h  on  and  lighten  tlu^  >leda,(v~  at  the  ighjo  of  this  native 
the  followin.g  day.  and  then  by  forced  marches  reach  Dep(jt 
I.-land  as  soon  a~^  ])()->ible. 

Idie  ])ros])ect  of  finding  shi]:)s  in  tlie  harl)our,  with  news 
fr(jni  home  and,  friends,  did  nnich  t(j  I'evive  the  ho])e  and 
s|)irits  of  tlie  jadeil  part>".  and  when,  as  the\'  a])])roached  their 
destination.  friendl\'  nali\'es  wvnt  encountered,  their  joy 
and  emotion  knew  no  Ijounds.  Hut  though  their  rece]nii)n 
among  the  Iimuit<  had  been  wai'm  and  }ieart\".  their  joy  was 
teni])ered  ^vil  h  di-a])])oini  meut  to  find  tiiat  the  only  >hii)  in  the 
Ijay  wa-  at  Marble  I-laiid.  and  that  ("ai)tain  Jjari'y  of  the 
E--thi  r  had  failed  to  drposit  at  I)e])ot  b-land  a  l!iou.-and 
]^)Ounds  {){  bread  and^  other  |)r(.)\'ision<  belonging  to  Lieutenant 
Schwatka  U])on  which  lie  had  depended,  d'hi-  failure  to 
kee])  a  ])ronii-e  I'e-ulted  in  tlie  ])arty  of  tweniy-two  hunii'ry 
1  ra\'el!ei-.--  and  nineteen  -iar\'im!;  dogs  being  foi'ced  U])on  the 
ho-i)ila!ily  of  the  natix'es,  and  in  le-s  than  a  week  famine 
exi-t  ed  in  e;nii!).  andi  i  he  -ii  uat  ion  1  lecame  de-i)e!'aie.  Morms 
had  ])re\"enteil  t  he  huiil  hm  of  walru-  and  <eal.  until  t  lie  eight  h 
da\'  ;!_i'ler  ilieir  arri\-al.  In  1  hc^  meantime.  J.ieu'eiiaiit 
Scfiwatka  u'ith  two  companion-  liad  ])U-}ied  on  to  Marble 
I-laiid  for  a--i-tance.  .\h  tiiey  h.ad  to  eat  wa<  a  little 
v>'a!ru-  iilul'l^'r,  and  in  a   forced  mareli  of  tweiitv-four  hours 


SCinVATKA'S   SEAUCir  FOR    FR  AX  KLIN   RECORDS     34-3 

t]u\v  ('()\-t'r('(l  srventy-fivo  miU^s.  The  (los]:ierate  situation  in 
the  scttlcnunit  at  Depot  Island  is  describt'd  by  Gilder  as 
follows  ;  — 

'■Pe()i)l(>  spoke  to  each  other  in  whispcn's,  and  everything 
was  ([uiet,  save  the  never-ceasing  and  piteous  cries  of  the 
hungry  children  begging  for  food  which  their  parents  could 
noi  give  them.  Most  of  the  time  I  stayed  in  bed,  trying  to 
keep  warm  and  to  avoitl  exercise  that  would  only  make  me 
all  rhi>  more  hungry."' 

l'\)ur  days  later,  the  lumters  were  successful  in  killing  a 
w;di'us,  and  this  timely  relic^f  (niabknl  the  mcm1)ers  of  8chwat- 
ka's  i)arty  to  continue  their  journcn'  to  ^larble  Island.  On 
the  first  day  out,  they  met  a  native  with  relief  for  the  camp. 
On  Saturday,  March  21,  1880,  tlu;  ship  George  and  Mary  was 
I'eached,  where  a  warm  welcome  awaited  them  from  Captain 
P)aker.  When  freed  from  th(>  ice  in  the  spring,  this  ship 
ciU'ricd  tlie  ex]:)lorers  back  \o  ci\'ilization. 

Il  will  l)e  remembered  that,  during  the  entire  journey, 
tiic  relianc'^  for  food  for  man  and  Ijeast  was  solely  u})on  the 
resources  of  the  country,  that  the  white  men  livcnl  exclusively 
upon  the  saine  far(^  as  the  Eskimos,  and  that  the  return 
slodge  j(jurney  was  accomi^lished  during  an  Arctic  winter 
acknowledged  to  be  of  exce])tional  scn'erity  by  the  natives. 
To  kieutenant  Schwatka's  excellent  mauagemcMit,  and  thor- 
ough fitness  for  his  ])osition  as  connnander,  was  due  the  suc- 
cess i)i  the  ex])editi()n.. 

"  \\\  our  mo\-(Mn(nits  wcmh^  conducttMl  in  the  dull,  methodi- 
cal. l)U:-iness-like  m:umer  of  an  arm>"  on  the  march,"  writers 
(iildei-.  ■'lA'cry  contingcMicy  was  calculated  ujion  and  ])ro- 
\-ided  foi-  1  lefoi'ehaud,  so  iliMl  ])ei'-onal  adventures  were  al- 
nii!<t  unknown  or  too  tri\'ial  to  mention." 

Tlic  !'e<ults  of  this  remarkable  journey  are  summed  up 
in  a  leailin.!.!;  j-lnglish  ne\vspai)er  iiublisluMl  September  20.  bSS(). 

■"Lieutenant   Schwatka  has  uo^v  dissol\"ed  the  last  doubts 


o44  THE   CUE  AT    Willi  E    X  OUT  IT 

that  coiilil  ha^•(■  been  iVlt  al)OUt  the  fate  of  the  Fraiikhii 
('X]ii'ihtion.  Pie  has  traced  the  one  uiitrace(l  ship  t(j  its 
,u;rav(_>  hcvuiul  the  ocean,  and  cleared  the  rej)Utati(jn  of  a 
hanule.-s  people  fr(.)in  an  undeserved  reproach.  He  has 
,ui\-en  to  tlie  iini)urie(l  boru's  of  the  crews  ])r(jl)al)l\'  th(^  only 
safi'LLUard  aji'ainst  tleseci'ation  by  wanderin.u'  wild  bea<t-  and 
luM'illc--  Eskimos,  which  that  frozen  land  allowed.  lie 
ha-  brou.u'ht  home  for  re\-erent  >e})ulture.  in  a  kindlier  s(jil, 
the  one  body  which  b(jre  transj^ort.  ( )ver  the  rest  he  ha-  set 
u])  monuments  to  empha-ize  tlie  undying'  memory  of  tlieir 
.-utVfi'i!m-<  and  their  ex]iloit<.  He  ha-  jzathered  tokens  by 
which  friends  and  relative-  may  identify  tlieir  dead,  an(l  re- 
\-i-it  in  imairination  the  -pots  in  which  the  a-hes  lie.  Lastly, 
Ic  ha-  cai'ried  home  with  him  matei-ial  evidence  to  complete 
the  annals  of  Arctic  exploration." 


CHAPTER   XVIII 

The  Jcannctte  expedition,  1879-1881.  —  In  eommand  of  Captain 
C(H)rge  W.  l)e  Long.  —  Leave.s  San  Francisco,  touclies  at  Ouna- 
laska,  August  2,  readies  Lawrence  Bay,  East  Siberia,  Au- 
gust 15.  —  Last  seen  by  whale  bark  Sea  Breeze  near  Herakl 
Island,  Sei)teniber  2. — The  Jeannette  beset  in  ice-pack,  Sep- 
tember 5,  never  again  released.  —  Daily  routine  of  officers 
and  crew. — Shi])  springs  a  leak.  —  A  frozen  summer. — Sight 
of  new  land. — A  second  winter  in  the  pack. — The  Jeannette 
crushed.  —  Abandonment. — The  retreat. — The  fate  of  the 
three  boats.  —  Death  of  Do  Long's  party.  — Melville's  search. 

The  American  Arctic  expedition  of  1879,  commanded  by 
Lieutenant  (!ieorge  W.  De  Long  of  the  United  States  Navy, 
was  eOinipped  and  financed  l)y  Ah'.  James  Gordon  Bemiett, 
proprietor  of  the  Xeic  York  Herald.  The  ol)ject  of  the 
ex])edition  was  to  reach  the  North  Pole  by  way  of  Behring 
Strait. 

The  l)ark-rigged  steam  yacht  of  four  hundred  twenty 
tons,  Pandora,  which  had  ah'eady  seen  considerable  service  in 
Arctic  water,  was  ptu'chased  from  Sir  Allen  A'otmg.  By 
s]MH'ial  act  of  Congress  slie  was  allowed  to  sail  under  American 
colours,  ])v  navigated  \)y  officers  of  the  United  States  Navy, 
and  to  change  her  name  from  Pandora  to  Jcanndtc.  The 
Jeannette  was  reenforced  and  refittcxl  for  the  arduous  service 
ex])ected  of  her,  and  her  officers  and  crew,  thirty-three  in  num- 
ber, carefully  scdected  for  their  especial  fitness  for  the  under- 
taking. 

Atnong  the  number.  Lieutenant  De  Long  and  Lieutenant 
Cliipp,  the   ex(M'utive   offic(n-,  had   secMi   Arctic   service  while 

345 


■;4G  THE   CHEAT    WJIITE  y  OUT  IF 

attached  to  the  V .  S.  stcMiiicr  JinniHn,  \\\iic\\  liad  l)ocn  sent  by 
the  <i'o\'en!iiieiit  in  :^earch  of  the  PtAnris  in  187>j  :  Eii,uineer 
Aleh'ille  had  Ikmti  attachcil  to  tlie  l'i(jrc--:s^  Avliile  that  shij)  had 
])een  on  the  ^aiue  (Traud.  and  Seaman  Win.  F.  ('.  Xin(h'inann 
had  .-ailed  on  tlie  Pula.ris  and  heen  a  nienilxT  (jf  tlie  ice-drift 
party. 

Ideiitenant  J(jlnr  W .  OaMcidiower,  U.  S.  X.,  wa.s  ai)])ointed 
]ra\'igator;  Dr.  J.  AI.  Aniljlei'.  surjie<jn:  Jei'ome  J.  ('(diins, 
nieteor(jlogi^t :  Pia\-niond  L.  Xewconil),  natm'aii.st;  and 
Wilhani  AI.  Dunhar,  ice  pilcjt. 

The  Jfinnicltc  l(;fi  San  Id'ancisco  Jiil}'  8,  and  ni(jved  <Iowly 
to^vard  the  ( lolden  '  hite  aniii.l  th(-  clieer.-^  and  \va\'in,ti'  of  hand- 
kerchiefs frtjin  tl)ou-and>  of  sjx'ctators  on  the  wharves  and 
(jn  Tel(-,ii'ra]jh  Ililh  A  >adute  cjf  ten  frun-  ^va<  tired  from  Fort 
Point,  v,-liil(;  a  con\-(\\'  (jf  whit  (.'-.-ailed  craft  (jf  the  San  Franci^C'O 
Yacht  ("lul)  e.-cf)rted  her  out  ri)  lh('  l)r(ja.d  Pacific.  Pu!'-uin,<i 
lier  cour.-e.  the  Jcf'/iueUc  made  f(jr  Ourudaska,  on(^  of  the  Ak.ai- 
tian  Inlands,  which  she  I'eached  Au<£U<t  2.  There  ackhtional 
store.<  were  taken  akoai'd.  and  four  days  later  -he  })ur.-ued  her 
coiu"-e,  TO  St.  .Michael-,  Ala-ka,  ^\■here  -lie  anchoi'erl  the  12th 
(jf  Au,L!,u-t .  l)o,<i'-  and.  fur  clotliin,u' were  ])urcha-cd,  and  Uvo 
Ala-kan-.  Anciuuin  and  Ak'Xai,  were  liirc'd  to  a.ccomjjany  tlie 
ex])e(lil  ion  a-  'k.'i',  dri\'er-.  J)\'  the  2")th  of  .-\uuu-t,  .-lie  had 
rc'ached  St.  Fawrc-nce  Ija\',  hia-t  Sikeria,  Avlu^re  Fieuterumt 
I)e  Fonii'  k'Mfued  t  hat  a.  -hi])  >ui)])osed  to  lie  the  \'((j"  had  ii'(»ne 
-oiith  in  .iuiie.  She  tlcn  I'ouiided  I'ia-t  ('ape  and  toiu-h<'d 
a1  < ';q)('  Serdzc.  from  A\iiich  ])oint  Fieutenant  De  Fonii'  >ent 
hi-  la-t  lei  u-r  home. 

Faptain  Ik-inie-;  of  the  American  whale  kai'k'  S( fi  I'i(<:'  -aAV 
t  he  ,//  r//,/,r ,'/(  und_ei-  full  -mII  and  -team,  on  the  2d  (;f  :-^epi( -inker. 
I^T'.t.  akoiU  fii'l\-  mile-  -(Hith  of  Ikrald  k-iand  :  e-ntheiSdof 
Scpieiniier  -lie  >\-a-  -i-jlited  ky  ('aplain  Keljey  ni  ike  Park 
/)'i-rn:  ::][i\  a1  a'eii'U  ike  r-ame  time  (Aplain  Ikaufii'y  of  tke 
Ihlin    M'li    and    -e\(-ral    (jllier   \vkal<'r.-  -aw  .-moke   fr^jm   the 


THE   -JEANNETTE''    EXPEDITIOX,    1S7'J-18S1  347 

Jeamieflc's  sinuke-stack  in  range  of  Herald  Island.  She  was 
standing  north.  These  were  the  last  tidings  heard  of  the 
expedition  by  the  outside  world  for  o\'er  two  j'ears. 

On  the  5th  of  .Septeniljer,  the  JccuDictte,  having  boldly  entered 
the  ice  in  an  attempt  to  push  through  and  winter  at  Herald 
Island  or  W'rangell  Land,  was  beset  and  never  again  left  the 
ic'e-])ack,  but  drifted  at  the  mercy  of  this  formidable  foe,  until 
sli(>  was  crushed,  and  finally  sank  many  months  afterward. 

Hoping  against  hope  that  a  release  would  come,  first  in 
the  fall  with  t!ie  promise  of  Indian  summer,  then  in  the  spring 
witli  the  breaking  uj)  of  the  ice-])ack.  Captain  De  Long  saw 
the  we(>k.-^  and  months  glide  by,  and  followed  the  complicated 
drift  of  the  Jcdtinette,  as  she  coquetted  with  her  jailer,  turning 
and  t^\  isting  in  her  course,  suffering  the  constant  pressure  of 
her  enemy,  that  hourly  threatened  her  destruction  and  pur- 
suing an  uneven  drift  north  and  cnistAvard. 

The  dail}'  routine  during  the  long  imprisonment  was  prac- 
tically as  follows  :  — 

G  A.M.  Call  executive  officer. 

7  A.M.  Call  ship's  cook. 

8:30  A.M.  Call  all  hands. 

9  A.M.  Breakfast  by  watch(^s. 

10  A.M.  Turn   to,  clear  fire-liole   of  ice,   fill  barrels  with 

snow,  clean  up  decks. 

11  A.M.  Clear  forecastle.     All  hands  take  exercise  on  the 

ice. 

11  :30  A.M.    InsipcM'tion  by  (executive  officer. 

12  M.  (let  soundings. 

1  ]>.M.  One  watcli  may  go  l)e!ow. 

2  P.M.  Fill  l)arrels  with  snow.      Clear  fire-hole  of  ice. 

3  P.M.  Dinner  by  watches. 

4  P.M.  Gall{>y  fir(^s  (nit.     Car])enter   and    l)oatswain   re- 

port departments  to  executive  officer. 


84,S  THE   GREAT    WHITE  NORTH 

7  :'.■)()  P.M.       Sujipcr  by  watches. 

10  p.-M.  Pi])L'  down.     Xoisc  and  smoking  to  cease  in  fore- 

castle, and  all  lights  to  be  put  out,  excei)t  one 
burner  of  bulkhead  lantern.  Man  on  watch 
re})ort  to  the  executive. 
During  the  night  the  anchor  watch  will  ex- 
amine the  fires  and  lights  e\-ery  half  hour,  and 
see  that  there  is  n(j  danger  from  fire.  All 
buckets  will  l)e  kej)t  on  the  starl)oard  side  of 
the  quarter-deck,  ready  lor  use  in  case  of  fire. 

This  programme  was  varicnl  only  as  contingencic^s  arose  ; 
by  threatening  disaster  from  ice  ])ressure  ;  by  the  chase  of 
bears  :  the  cai)ture  of  walrus  and  seals  ;  or  by  hunting  pai'ties 
who  tra\-elle(l  over  the  ice  in  search  of  game,  oi'  took  a  daily 
run  with  the  dogs. 

''Wintering  in  the  ])ack,"  connnents  De  Long,  "maybe  a 
thrilling  thing  to  I'ead  about  alongside  a  warm  lire  in  a  com- 
fortable home,  but  the  actual  thing  is  sudicient  to  make  any 
man  ])i'cma1  urely  old."' 

On  .buuiary  19,  bSSO,  owing  to  serious  coiu'ulsions  of  the 
ice,  the  .Jcanticllc  s])!'ung  a  leak.  The  deck  i)uni])s  were  at 
once  riggetl  ;uid  manne(l,  and  steam  raised  on  tlie])ort  boiler 
to  run  the  steam  ])um])s.  Thi>  la>t  caused  grent  diflicully 
and  delay,  owing  to  the  temperature  in  the  fire-room  being 
—  2!)^,  the  sea-coc]<s  being  frozen,  A\'hich  necessitated  poui'ing 
liucket-;  of  water  through  the  man-hole  ])late:~,  before  the 
j)unips  could  be  o])erated.  Through  Meh'ille's  indomil  ;il)le 
energy,  the  |)um])s  wei'e  effect  i\-e  by  aftei'noon.  'i'lioiigli  all 
hamb  wo!ke(l  until  midniglil.  lhe  serious  situation  w;i<  only 
l);iiM  i:dly  eonli'olled,  the  men  \\'oi'king  knee-deep  in  ice  water, 
Xindeiii.-nin  st  ;iiidinu down  in  the  l'oi'e-])eak,  studing  oakum 
;i!id  t;dlo\\-  in  ex'ei'y  phice  Fi'oni  which  w;itei'  came.  I'nder  the 
direclion  of  Lieutenant    (  'hipj),  a  bulkhead  \\as   built  forward 


CAPTAIN    GEORGE    W.    BE  LOXG  o49 

of  the  forenuist,  which  partiall}'  confined  the  water.  In  the 
nieanthne,  ]\lelville,  working nigiit  and  day,  rigged  an  economi- 
cal j)unip  with  the  Baxter  boil(>r,  with  wliich  the  ship  was 
puniptnl  for  nearly  eighteen  months. 

Lientenant  Danenhower,  who  had  heen  suffering  for  some 
time  with  his  eyes,  had  l)ecome  totally  incapacitated  for  ser- 
vice, and  on  the  22d  of  January  submitted  to  an  op(;ration 
performed  by  Dr.  Ambler.  Two  days  later,  De  Long  com- 
ments on  the  gravity  of  his  own  responsibilities  :  — 

''My  anxieties  are  l)eginning  to  crowd  on  me.  A  disal)led 
and  leaking  ship,  a  seriously  sick  officer,  and  an  uneasy  and 
terrible  pack,  with  constantly  diminishing  coal  pile,  and  at  a 
distance  of  200  miles  to  tiie  nearest  Siberian  settlement — ■ 
these  arc  enough  to  think  of  for  a  lifetime." 

The  drift  of  the  Jeannettc  for  the  first  five  months  had  cov- 
ered an  imnuMise  area  ;  she  had  approached  and  receded  from 
the  one  huntlred  eightieth  meridian,  drifting  Ijack  to 
within  fifty  miles  from  wher{^  she  had  entered  the  pack.  By 
th(^  .3d  of  May,  however,  fr(>sh  southeast  winds  began,  and 
the  ship  took  up  a  rapid  and  uniform  drift  to  the  northwest. 
Hope  for  release,  which  had  been  buoyant  in  Alay,  was  deferred 
mitil  June,  and  when  that  month  glided  l)y  with  no  signs  of 
lib(n-ati()n,  it  passed  to  July  and  gradually  faded  with  the  brief 
passage  of  a  frozen  summer.  The  Jeannettc,  again  uncertain 
in  lier  di'ift,  added  to  the  general  disappointment  of  the  com- 
mandci'.  Tlie  ring  of  despair  and  realization  of  failure  are 
voiced  in  an  entry  August  12  :  — 

'■()])servations  to-day  show  a  drift  since  th(>  9th  of  five 
and  a  half  mih-  to  S.  38°  E.  The  irony  of  fate  !  How  long, 
()  Lord,  how  long?" 

On  Septemb(M'  1,  tlie  Jeannettc  for  the  first  time  since  her  im- 
])risonnu'nt  stood  on  an  wen  keel  ;  ])ut  four  days  later,  one 
yoav  from  tlu^  tim(^  she  fle.ng  Inn-  fortunc^s  to  tlie  enemy,  sh(^ 
was  again  held  fast  in  its  frozen  grip.     During  the  monlli  she 


-5.)0  THE   ailKAT    WHITE  yOllTII 

was  put  in  winter  ([uartcrs  i'or  the  second  time.  The  ap- 
pfoach  of  l!ie  luni;;  nit;-lit  v»-ith  its  added  anxieties  brought 
lilile  ehaiige  t(j  the  nienihers  of  the  ex])e(htion.  llie  (jues- 
tion  of  i'u(>i  was  the  most  sei'ious  i)rohlem,  and  the  amount 
used  was  figured  to  th(^  most  economical  basis.  \\'ear\'  (hiys 
(h'agged  along  without  novelty  or  cliang(\  "So  far  as  I  know/' 
writes  l)e  Long  in  January,  LS81,  "nc\-er  has  an  Arctic  expe- 
dition l^ecn  so  un])roiit;i.ble  as  this.  Peopk-  l)es(>t  in  the  ])ack 
Ix'fore  ha\'(^  always  drifted  s()me\vh(>re  to  some  land,  but  we 
ai'e  drifting  about  like  modei'n  Idying  Dutchmen,  never  get- 
ting anywhere,  but  ahva\'s  restless  and  on  the  in(jve.  Coals 
ar(^  buj'iiing  up,  hxjd  being  consumed,  1he  ])um])s  are  still 
going,  and  thirl  \'-t  hi'ce  ])co[)le  ;ir(>  weai'ing  out  their  hearts 
and  souls  like  \nvn  doomed  to  im])ris()tunent  for  life.  If 
tliis  next  sunun(M'  c(jmes  and  goes  like  the  last  "without  an\' 
I'esult,  wiiat  reasontible  mind  can  be  patient  in  conlempla- 
lion  of  1h('  future  ?" 

!''()ur  long  weaiy  months  wcM'e  to  (^lajjse  before^  a  relief 
came  to  break  t  h.e  monotonous  situation.  ( )n  May  10,  ISSl, 
the  .Icaiincllc  stood  iti  latitude  ~i'°  V-V  20"  X.,  longitude  ItiT' 
").■)'  1.")"  j'^.,  land  ^\■as  sighted  to  the  westward,  which  ])ro\'ed 
to  be  an  island  Hater  n.amed  Jeaimett"  Island),  the  hi'sl  that 
had  greeted  tlie  weary  eyes  of  olIiccM's  and  men  since  A  birch  2  ! , 
bSS!),  when  tli(>  sliij)  had  been  in  sight  of  Wi'a.ngell  band. 
On  AFax'  2!,  a  second,  island  was  s(-en.  On  ttu'  Mist,  Mei\  iile, 
Dunl'M!',  Xiiidemann,  and  thi'ee  others  st;ir1(Ml  with  a  dog 
sleil^'e  and  i)ri)\-isi()ns.  for  ww  in\'esf  igat  ion  of  the  newly  dis- 
coxcred  inland.  T'tie  pai'ty  landed  (Mi  .bine  )!,  Iioisted  the 
American  flag,  and  forinal'y  took  poss(>ss!on  of  the  land  in  the 
n.ame  of  1  he  ( 'nited  St.afes  and  gi\  ing  it  t  lie  nana-  of  Meurietta. 
l-lanij.  They  bnilt  a  cairn  ,and  deposited  ,a  record.  Tlie 
joiH'ney  h.ad  be(  n  fr.aiight  with  great  dangei'  aiMl  har(bhi]"). 
"The  ice  be'\\-,'rn  1  he  -liip  ;ind  bhe  i-laml  had  been  something 
i'riglit  ful,"  writiv-  I  )e  bong.      "  .\!'i-r  digging,  !ei-i'\  ing  and   its- 


TlltJ   ''  JKAy^E'lTE'^    SLXKS  851 

attciuuuit  loadiiijj;  and  unloadiiij;',  anu-bi'cakiiig  hauls,  and 
])a!iir-sirick('ii  dogs  niadf  their  joui'ucy  ;i  tcrrihly  scn'ctc  one. 
Xear  the  island  the  iee  was  all  ali\'e,  and  AIel\-ille  left  his  boat 
and  supplies,  and,  carrying  only  a  da}-'s  pr(j\-isions  and  his 
instruments,  at  the  risk  of  his  life  went  thi'(jugh  the  terrilde 
mass,  actually  dragging  the  dogs,  which  i'rcjni  fear  r(4'used  to 
follow  their  human  leaders.  If  this  pcM'sistence  in  landing  u))on 
tills  island,  in  spite  of  the  superhuman  dillicullies  he  encount- 
ei'ed,  is  not  reckoned  a  lu'ave  and  meritorious  action,  it  will 
not  be  from  any  failure  on  my  part  to  ma]<e  it  kn(jwn." 

Tiie  approach  of  sipring  had  re\ealed  Xo  Dr.  Ambler  a  ])ale 
and  stricken  crcnv.  Danenhower  had  long  been  n  sufferer; 
Lieutenant  ("hi])])  was  ill;  Mr.  Collins  was  recu])(M-ating  slowly 
from  ;i  >ovin-(-  illness;  Alexia,  the  Alaskan,  was  suffering  from 
ulcers,  and  others  of  the  crew  sliowed  incij)ient  signs  of  scurvy. 

On.  the  12th  of  June,  1881,  while  in  T?""  bV  north  latitude, 
and  1~)')°  east  longitud(\,  the  Jean /idle  (\\])(M'ienced  a  final 
})ressure  from  thf>  ice,  from  which  she  sank  within  a  few  houi's. 
As  soon  as  it  was  realizcMl  that  Ium'  fate  was  sealed,  ordcas  wer(^ 
i--ued  thai  all  ]irovi>ions,  boats,  etc.,  should  be  trans])orted 
to  a  safe  distance  u])on  the  ice  ;  this  was  done  v\'ithout  con- 
fusion or  exciiement.  "  When  the  oi'der  was  gi\-(Mi  to  abandon 
the  shi])."'  w'.'ites  on(^  of  the  officers,  "  h(>r  hold  was  full  of  watca', 
and  a-  she  was  keeling  twen1y-thi-ee  degrees  to  starboard 
at  t!u>  lini(>  the  watch  was  on  tlie  lower  sid(>  of  the  s]iar  deck." 

The  UM'n  (  ncam])ed  u])on  the  ice,  and  by  four  o'clock  on 
the  morning  of  the  l^^th.  "amid  the  nit  t  ling  and  banging  of 
her  timbiMs  and  ironwork,  the  sjii])  righied  and  stood  alm()>t 
U])right,  the  lloe-  that  had  come  in  and  cru-heil  her  slowly 
l)acked  off,  and  >jie  sank  with  -^lightly  accelerated  velocity; 
the  y;u-d  arin>  \\ei'e  .-trip])ed  and  brok(Mi  u])ward  ])ai';illel  to 
the  masts;  ;ind  so,  like  a  gr'vit.  gaunt  skeleton  clai)])ing  its 
hands  ;ibo\-e  its  licad.  >lie  jjlungeil  out  of  >ight .  Thosc^  of 
us  who   saw  h(>r   go   down,"  adds   Chief    Laigineer  Melville, 


352  THE   a  HEAT    WHITE   NORTH 

"tUd  so  with  mingled  feelings  of  sadness  and  relief.  We 
\ver(>  now  utterl}'  isolated,  beyond  any  rational  hope  of  aid  ; 
wilh  our  proper  means  of  escape,  to  which  so  many  pleasant 
associations  attached,  destroyed  before  our  eyes;  and  hence 
it  was  no  wonder  we  felt  lonely,  and  in  a  sense  that  few  can 
a])i)reciate.  Hut  we  were  satisfied,  since  we  knew  full  ^\ell 
that  the  slii})'s  usefulness  had  long  ago  ])assed  awa}',  and  we 
could  now  start  at  once,  the  sooner  the  better,  on  our  long 
march  to  the  south." 

The  following  week  was  spent  in  i)reparations  for  the  r(>- 
treat;  the  route  was  laid  due  south,  it  being  the  hitention  of 
('aj)tain  De  Long  to  make  for  the  Lena  Eiver,  after  a  })rief 
sto])  at  the  New  Sil)erian  Island.  The  day's  march  was  ac- 
com])lished  under  the  most  trying  circumstances,  the  lateness 
of  the  season  and  the  ruggednessof  the  ice  necessitating  road- 
making,  bridging,  and  rafting,  or  dragging  tlie  loads  through 
shish  and  water  tliat  lay  knee-deep  in  (he  palli.  The  foot- 
gear of  tli(>  men  b(H'ame  ])]'actically  us(>less  as  a  result  of  con- 
stant wettings,  and  eveiy  (hn'ice  was  r(>sort(\l  to  to  k(H'])  the 
})are  f(>et  from  contact-  witli  thc^  ice.  "A  large  numlxM', " 
wi'ites  Mel\-ille,  "'marched  with  their  toes  oi'ot ruding  through 
their  moccasins  ;  some  willi  tlie  'up])ers'  full  of  lioles,  out  of 
which  the  water  and  slusli  s])urt(^d  at  e\-er3-  stc]).  Yet  no 
one  nnirnmre([  so  h^ig  as  his  feet  wer(>  cleai'  of  ice,  and  1  ha\-e 
here  to  sjiy  tliat  no  shi])'s  company  ever  endured  such  severe 
toil  with  such  li1tl(>  c()m])laint.  Another  crew,  ])erh;!])<,  may 
be  found  to  do  as  well  ;    !)ut  better,  ne\'er  !" 

Nine  loaded  sledges  and  fi\-e  boats  carrying  >ixty  (la\'s' 
pi'o\'i>ioiis,  had  to  be  hauled  across  tju^  moving  floes  in  the 
.■■ourse  of  the  da\'.  'I'he  road  had  to  be  t:-;i\-elled  no  h^-s  than 
thirteen  times,  s('\-en  lime-  with  load<  and  six  limes  empty 
handed,  thus  walking  1  w  ('nt>'->ix  miles  in  making  an  ad\'ance 
of  two.  Th(>  sick,  wit  h  t  he  hospital  stores  and  tents,  wei'e  un- 
der the  care  of  Dr.  Ambler.     Thus  tlu-  march  over  the  fi'ozen 


Frnn,  „  i,nrfn,:t  /,/  Ih.    ,>.,s.,.s:, 
( 'Ai'TMx  ( ;.   W,    I)i:    L(i.\,, 


ij  A.  O/.,  rt;.  h'sq. 


DAILV   liOCTIXE   OF  OFFIL'FAIS   AM)    CHEW  353 

occvui  ^v;ls  continued  for  several  weeks  wlien,  io  the  conster- 
nation and  dismay  of  Captain  De  Lon<^,  lie  found  upon  taking 
observations,  that  b}'  the  northerly  drift  of  tlie  pack  they 
were  losing  ground  daily  and  had  drifted  some  twenty-four 
miles  to  the  northwest.  This  disheartening  intelligence  was 
ke[)i  from  the  men,  with  the  (wception  of  Melville  and  Dr. 
Am-liler.  Changing  their  course  t(;  south-southwest,  the 
jjarty  ecjntinued  their  slow  and  wearisome  progress  until  the 
11th  or  12th  of  July,  when  the  mountainous  peaks  of  an 
island  gladdened  the  eyes  of  the  shipwrecked  crew.  Inspired 
to  renewed  effort,  the  men  pushed  on,  finally  landed,  and 
Captaiti  De  Long  took  possession  in  the  name  of  God  and  the 
rniicd  States,  namii;g  this  ne\v  territory  Bennett  Island, 
rsine  da}"s  were  spent  (jn  this  island,  during  which  the  boats 
we!-e  I'epaired.  A  cairn  was  luiilt  and  a  record  left.  The 
litial  depai'ture  from  Bennett  Island  tocjk  place  August  G. 
In  the  meantim(\,  the  brief  sumn:ier  had  gone;  already  young 
ice  wa-  i'(jrming,  and  the  streams  and  rivulets  tliat  had  glad- 
dened {l.(^  men's  eyes  upon  their  arrival  liad  disappeared  as 
t!ie  cold  gras]-)  of  winter  prepared  to  hold  them  fast. 

It  luid  bc(>n  (lr-cide(l  by  Ca])tain  De  L(jng  t(Miividethe  party 
into  tlu'ec-  secti<jii-,  and  to  ]")roceed  by  boats;  to  this  end  Lieu- 
t(uant  ('hi])]>  was  assigiied  to  the  >econ(l  cutter  in  connnand 
of  nin<-  men  :  Chief  l']ngineer  Melville  to  the  whale-boat  in 
command  of  nine  men.  D(>  Long  reserving  the  command  of 
the  (ir-t  cutter  und  twelve  men.  Instructions  to  Chipp  and 
]\Ielville  directed  that  tliey  should  keej)  cl()s(>  t(j  th(^  captain's 
boat,  but  if  tiii'ough  accident  the\"  should  liec(jme  se])ai"ated, 
to  mal<e  their  way  south  to  tlie  coast  of  SilxM'ia  and  fijUow 
it  to  the  Lena  River,  then  a.-cend  the  Lena  to  a  Paissian  settle- 
ment. 

For  ilie  next  eig]ite(>ii  days,  tlie  retreat  was  made  by  work- 
inii'  througli  lead^.  huulinu'  lh(>  boats  out,  and  mal^in^  iiortages 
acro-<  floe  ])ieces  that  barre(l  their  ])rogress  ;   and  occasi(_)nally 


■  ]5\  THE   <niEAT    WHITE   MORTII 

;is  tnuch  us  li'ii  luih's  Avas  made  a  clay  to  the  soutluvest.  Vex- 
atious (l('la\'s  wei'e  caused  by  the  fast  a])])njachini;- winter,  and, 
upon  reai'hhisi;  Thadeouiski,  one  of  the  New  Siherian  Islands, 
the  ])ui('!i  of  dinruiishin<i;  rations  l)(^ji;an  sorely  to  be  felt, 
(lame,  which  had  been  occasionally  secured  durinj^' the  early 
])art  of  the  retreat,  had  b(>en  scarce  of  late,  and  the  outlook 
be.iran  to  take  on  the  i^ray  as])ect  of  a  desperate  futui'e. 

From  iKjw  on,  the  retreat  was  one  lonji,  despcirate  struj>;<i;le 
a<2;ainst  famine  and  ti;ales  and  i)iercin«>;  cold.  Describing  the 
exi)(M'iences  of  Se])teml)er  7,  Melville  writes  :  — 

"Standing  to  the  southward,  we  shortly  came  \\\)  Avith  a 
lai'ge  floe  ali\'e  with  small  rtmning  hummocks  and  str(>am  ice. 
It  was  blowing  stifll>',  the  sea  was  lumt)y,  and  our  boats  ca- 
reering at  a  livel\'  rate.  Pumping  and  bailing  to  keep  afloat, 
we  suddenly  came  unawares  ujion  th.e  weathtM'  side  of  a  great 
iio(^  piece,  o\-er  which  tlie  sea  was  l)reaking  so  teri'il)ly  that  h)r 
us  to  come  in  contact  with  it  meant  certrdn  destruction.  It 
was  floating  from  four  to  six  fe(>t  al)()\'e  watca',  its  sides  either 
}>erpen(hcular  or  undei'shot  by  the  action  of  the  waves,  which 
dashed  madix'  o\'er  it,  the  surf  flying  in  the  air  to  a  height  of 
twenl\'  [viA  ;  and,  wliei'e  the  sea  had  honeycom])e*l  it  and 
eaten  holes  u])wai'd  through  its  lhickn(>s<,  a  thousand  water- 
spouts c;ist  forth  spray  like  a  school  of  whales.  Hound  about, 
down  sail,  and  awa\' we  pulle(l  foi'  our  li\-(v.  l)e  Long,  being 
fifty  or  a  !iundr(>(l  y;u'(ls  in  ad\'ance  of  me,  and  so  nnich  nearer 
dangci',  h;iiled  ni(>  to  take  him  in  tow,  A\'hich  1  did,  and  to- 
gether we  i)Mrely  matiaged  to  hold  our  i)recarious  position. 
The  second  cuttei'  was  away  behind  ngain,  but  npon  coniiug 
up  seized  \\\r  wh;i !e-bo;n 's  ])aintei';  and  so  we  sti'uguled  in 
line,  ;ind  at  last  succee(le(|  in  cl(>aring  the  weather  eilge  of  the 
lleie.  1 1  w;i<  ;i  loim'  pull  ;ind  ;i  h.'ird  ])ull.  The  sea  I'nai'ed  and 
1  liiin(|ei'(>d  auain-t  I  he  eoM,  l)le:!k  mass  of  ire,  flying  away 
from  ii  like  >nowflake~^  and  fi'ee/.ing  a<  it  flew;  the  sailors, 
lilindeil  by  the  wind  and  spi'ay,  pulled  manfully  at  the  o:U's, 


CHIEF  EXGIXKKU    MELVU.LE  ;3oo 

their  bare  iiancls  frozen  and  bleediiif^- ;  and  the  boats  tossed 
ea])riciousIy  about  with  the  wild  waves  and  the  uneciual 
strain  of  the  tow-hne.  Drenched  to  the  skin  In'  the  cruel 
icy  seas  whicli  poured  in  and  nigh  filled  the  boats,  the  over- 
taxed men,  as  they  faced  the  dreadful,  d(,'ath-dealing  sea  and 
nuu'derous  ice-edge,  found  new  life  and  strength  and  per- 
formed wonders.   .   .  . 

■"Our  boats  were  well  bunched  togt^ther,  and  although  it 
was  now  pitch  dark,  we  could  yet  for  a  while  discern  each  other 
looming  up  out  of  the  l)lack  water  like  spectres,  and  plunging 
over  the  crests  of  the  waves.  Presenth'  the  seconrl  cutter 
faded  awa\ ,  but  as  mine  was  the  fastest  boat  of  the  three,  I 
(experienced  no  difficulty  in  following  J)e  Long.  Indeed,  in 
my  anxiety  to  o])ey  the  order  'Keep  within  hail,'  I  at  times 
bai'el}'  esca])(Hl  running  the  first  cutter  down.   .   .   ."' 

"Tcnvai'd  midniglit,''  continues  ]\Ielville,  "we  approach(>d 
tlu^  weather  e(lg(>  of  the  pack,  the  roar  of  the  surf  reaching  our 
(\irs  long  ])eforc  we  could  see  the  ice.  I  involuntarily  haide(l 
tlie  whal<'-boat  closer  on  the  wind,  and  by  so  doing  lost  sight 
of  tlie  fir.-l  cutter,  but  tlie  terrible  noise  and  confusion  of  tlie 
sea  warrHMl  me  beyond  dcjubt  of  the  deatli  that  lay  under  our 
1(M'.  Pi'esentl>'  out  of  the  darkness  there  ap])eared  the  lun'rid 
white  wall  of  ice  and  foam.  Xot  a  second  too  soon.  'Ready 
a!=out,  and  out  with  tlie  two  lee  oars  if  shf>  misses  stax's.' 
T\\\<.  of  coui'sc,  from  tlie  h(>avy  sea,  she  did  ;  and  Cjuick  as 
tiiov-ght  my  oi'ders  were  obeyed.  As  we  turn(H|  s1oav1\'  I'ound, 
a  w;i\'e  >w(>pt  across  our  starl)oard  f[uarter  filling  the  boats 
to  the  scats.  Yc  (lodsl  v.'hat  a  cold  bath!  And  now  v:v 
were  in  the  nn'dst  of  small  str(^annng  ice,  broken  and  triturat(Ml 
into  ])()-h  by  the  sea  :md  grinding  Hoe-,  ;uid  tliis  wa>  hurled 
bac!<  ui)on  us  by  tlie  reflex  water  and  eddying  current  in  the 
rear  of  tlu'  ])ai'k,  which  wa-  rai)idl\'  UKuing  liefore  tlie  wind. 
With  Ija.ilers.  baifk'Ms,  and  pump<  d.oing  thcii-  uttiuwt.  the  two 
{'■e  oars  lironuh.t  ns  aa'ound  in  a'ood  time,  and.  we  fi!(>il  aAva,^'  I'U 


■]o{]  Tin-:  CllKAT   wniTK  noutii 

the  other  tack,  the  waves  still  leapiii";-  playfully  in  as  tlio\ig;h 
to  kee])  us  l)us\-  and  spice  our  misery  with  the  zest  of  (lan<;('i'. 

"When  (la\'  broke,  neither  of  our  companion  hoats  was  in 
sij2,iit.  llie  wintl  had  moderated  ^reatl}',  and  we  w(4'e  now 
in  (iui(^t  water  amon^'  the  loose  ])ack,  -  -  p(M'ha])s  the  most 
miserable  looking  collection  of  tnorlals  that  e\'er  crowded 
shivering  together  in  a  heap.  A\'(>  looked,  indeed,  so  utterly 
forlorn  and  wi-etch(>d  that  just  to  re\-i\-e  and  thaw,  us  it  were, 
my  drowned  and  frozen  wits,  1  bursl  forth  into  frenzied  song. 
Of  a  truth,  as  we  sat  shaking  tluM'e,  our  situation  was  nigh 
(U^sjK'rate  ;  we  were  down  to  an  allowance  of  a  "|)int  of  water 
to  each  man  ])er(la\',  now  that  J)e  Long  was  se])ai'ated  from 
us  ;  but  u])on  the  suggest  ion  of  some  one  in  the  boat,  I  set  up 
the  fii'e-])ot  and  made  hot  tea.  We  were  thus  bi-eakfasting 
when,  the  first  cutter  ]io\-(^  in  view.  I  at  once  joined  com- 
]^an}',  and  shortl}'  aftei'  the  second  cutter  mad(~  her  appear- 
ance and  we  Aver(>  again  t()g(^th(>i-.  The  s(>a  soon  calmed, 
/r.s  )nis(i'tiblcs  thaAved  out,  the  morning  became  as  pleasant  as 
th(»  inemorable  May  mornings  at  hom(\  and  wt>  again  were 
])right  and  alive  with  ho])e."' 

The  following  day,  Se])t(>mber  12,  aft(M'  a  night's  encani])- 
ment  U])on  a  floe,  the  ])ai'ty  landed  in  S(Muen()\-ski,  and  \\\v 
hunters  had  the  good  hirtune  to  >ecui-e  a  deer,  anIucIi  ])ro- 
vided  them  for  the  fii'st  time  in  many  moidhs  a  full  and  deli- 
cious m(>al.  Cape  P)arkin,  tlu^  point  of  destination,  was  j'oimd 
to  l)e  onl;,-  ninety-  miles  disbant,  ;ind,  aftei-  a  da\"'s  I'est  and 
depositing  a  record  a1  Semeno\'>ki  Island,  the  ])arty  em- 
barlced  once  moi'e  full  of  hope  and  cour.age  lh;i'.  ('ape  l^arkin 
might  be  reachefl  ;d'ter  one  more  night  ;it  sea. 

The  three  boats  sp<'d  foi-wai'd  to  the  southwest  in  a  rising 
sea.  the  g;ile  inci'ea>e( !,  .and  the  he;i\'>'  seas  grew  liourix'  moi'e 
formid.able  ;ind  threatening.  De  bong  and  ('hi|)p  wei'c  ex- 
periencing gi'eat  difliiailty  in  the  nian.agemeiit  of  tlieii'  o\cv- 
loaded  boat .--.      Alebille,  in  his  endeaxoui'  to  obe\-  i  he  (wder  to 


A    SHCOM)    nLXTKR    JX    THE    PACK  oOi 

koc])  within  liaiL  ^\•as  all  hut  s\vaiii])ctl  by  X\\v  fury  of  1he  waves 
as  th('\'  hr()k(>  oxht  the  whak>-l)oat. 

In  an  rndcavour  to  answer  si<i;nals  from  I)(^  Long,  Melville 
sliout(Ml  down  the  wind  that  \w  nuist  run  or  swani])—  De  Lonj;' 
wa.vinl  hack,  inotionina;  him  onward.  Alelville  hoisted  sail, 
shook  out  oiK^  reef,  and  the  whale-])oat  shot  forwai'd  like  an 
arrow.  De  k(ni,iu;  then  signalltxl  (dii])p;  for  an  instant  tlie 
second  cutter  was  seen  in  the  dim  twilight  to  rise  on  the  crest 
of  a  wav(\  then  sink  out  of  sight;  once  more  slie  appeared;  a 
trcMuendous  sea  bi'oke  over  her;  a  man  was  seen  striving  to 
fr(>e  the  sail:  slu>  sank  again  from  view,  and,  though  seas  rose 
and  fell,  one  aft (m- another,  the  second  cuttc^r  with  all  on  Ijoard 
was  never  sinm  again. 

The  \vhale-l)oat  ])lunged  on  at  a  spanking  rate  and  was 
soon  out  of  sight  of  De  Long.  Tluuiuestionnow  was  whether 
slie  wotild  t)utli\'e  th(>  gale  —  and  to  insiu'e  gr(^ater  safety 
Mei\-ille  ordei'ed  a  drag  anchor  to  be  made  of  t(>nt  poles 
W!M;g!it(>d  with  such  available^  material  as  came  to  hand. 

^\'hat  a  nigh.t,  lying  anchor(-(l  at  th(>  mercy  of  the  gal(\ 
l)airing  out  with  i)iunps,  buckets,  and  i)ans  the  heavy  seas 
as  they  broke  o\-er  the  boat  ;  hungry  and  thirsty  men,  soal^ed 
to  the  skin  with  r(>peated  ice-cold  l)alhs,  half  frozen  from 
ex])()sure  to  the  icy  blasts.  A  little  whisk(\v  was  all  they  had 
(hu'ing  that  fearful  night,  and  in  th.e  morning  a  (jiuirter  of  a 
l)ourid  of  ])emmican  s(>r\-ed  as  brc^akfast  to  the  wrc^tclietl  crew. 
The  gale  still  raged  about  tliem  with  tmabattnl  fmy.  Btit 
by  afternoon  it  had  abated  sufhcieiUiy  for  them  to  get  tntder 
wa\-.  and  tlu^  morning  of  tlu^  14th  fotmd  tlu^n  sailing  through 
young  ic(\  and  in  shoal  watc^rs,  \\iiich  t]ie\'  a^"oid(M.l  by  stei^ring 
to  the  eastward  all  tln\'.  Sh.ort  rations  of  a  ([uarter  of  a  pound 
ot  i)i'mniican  thrin^  tinu's  a  day,  without  water,  was  all  they 
iiad.  and  an(.1l!(M'  misc^ralk^  night  settled  tijion  the  toilers, 
as  they  bailed  th:(^  watei'-logged  whale-b.cat.  the  water  turn- 
ing (()  slusli  the  miirute  it  was  in  the  boat. 


;3.')8 


rilK   (;l!EAT    WHITE   yoliTII 


The  nicii  were  now  iin(l(-r(i'(nn<i  >('\-cr(>  suftVrin,<2;s  from  thirst. 
The  lohowi])o;  ( hi y  thcx'  v^crc  I'oiluiiatc  in  rcachinji  one  rncniTli 
of  the  Lena  l{i\'(>r,  and,  ])r(jc('c(hn,a;  u])  tliis  sti'cani,  they  dis- 
cniharlccd  for  th(^  first  time,  after  live  thiys  of  nii.-ery.  Tak- 
inu.-  shehei'  in  a  (U'serted  hnt,  lately  \"a('ated  \)y  nati\-e<,  th(\v 
thaAved  their  achin<i-  bodies  around  a  checu'iu'i'  camp  fire, 
l)r(",\'ed  a  ])ot  of  tea,  and  ate  of  a  stew  made  of  a  few  birds  sli(;t 
at  Semenovski  Island,  lUit  their  swollen  limbs,  blistered  and 
eraclced  hand>,  ^'ave  them  excrueiatinii'  ])ain,  and  ariother 
sleej)less  niulit  adcUnl  to  their  misery.  Two  more  toils(jme 
da>">  were  .-ixnit  paUinji'  u])  the  river  and  encamping  at  night 
imder  a  cold  and  cheerless  >ky. 

On  the  I'.Hdi  of  Se])t ember,  ISSl,  Alelviile's  ])arty  had  the 
good  fortime  to  fall  in  with  natives,  wlio  ti'eated  th(>  forlorn 
men  with  great  kindness  and  geruM'osity,  and  on  tlie  2(ith  of 
Se])tem!  :(>r  they  I'f^ached  the  liu^sian  village  (jf  ( ieem()via!ock(\ 
v.iiere  tliey  subsi--t(Hl  imtil  they  wer(>  able  to  connnunicate 
A\ith  the  comniandarit  at  Belun. 

i'jxni  the  sej)aration  of  the  Ixuits  already  descrilxMl.  De 
Long  experienced  the  same  tlu'eatened  dest  ruction  of  the  first 
cutlei'  that  had  caused  Melville  so  much  an.\iet\'  in  the  whale- 
JHKit.  Aftei'  three  miserable  da\'s  and  nights  of  exposure  to 
the  merrile<<  sea^,  he  decided  to  make  a  huuling  by  Avadiiig 
a-hoi'c  Se])iember  17,  at  a  ])oint  To"  2')'  north  latitude,  '2i\° 
^;0'  ea>t  longi;  ude.  ()wing  to  t  h(>  shaHo\\' \\'at  er.  ir  wa<  f<;und 
iKce— a!'\"  to  abandon  tin'  boat,  and  the  wretched,  enfeebled 
])ar1y,  de-t;tUM\  -a\'e  for  four  da\'--'  scant  ])ro\"i-ion<,  began 
tlc'ir  f;il;d  m;trch  on  the  inho>])itabl(>  tundra  of  ni.Tthiei'n 
>ib''!-i;i,  in  -eiircli  of  a  sfttlemcid  ninety-fix'e  mile<  di-i  ;uit . 
l)e  boiig  s  I'ecord  of  thi>  wear\'  tramp  is  one  long  auouy  of 
a  -lewiy  pej'i-liinn'  pMrty.  l-A'crything  Avas  abandoni'd  ihat 
■\\a-  no!  ;ib-()lu1i-ly  nece--~ary,  luit  in  >]n\r  of  jiiihtened  load^. 
the  h;d!'-lV(.zen  nn  ii  hnipcd  :ii!d  l:(>b.!  Jcil  >!i>\\iy  alonu,  falling 
ill  1  bi'ii' ;  rack-,  the  A\-(/alxer  a  — i-ted  i  ly  the  .-tron.ger,  but   (A'cu 


.1  SFjjoyi)  wrxTEn  /.v  the  pack  859 

th(ni  the  ^touikI  covcrcil  was  inconsidci-able,  so  that  on  Scp- 
t('mlK>r  21,  upon  reaching  some  deserted  huts,  ])e  Long- 
records  :  -- 

"According  to  my  accounts  we  are  now  thirty-seven  miles 
awa}-  from  the  n(\\t  station  !  and  eighty-seven  from  a  i)robal)le 
settlement.  We  hav(^  two  (hiys'  rations  aft(n-  to-morrow 
niorning"s  breakfast,  and  we  have  three  lame  men  who  c;in- 
not  make  more  than  five  or  six  miles  a  day  ;  of  c(jurse.  I 
cannot  lea\'e  them,  and  the}'  certainly  cannot  keep  uj)  with 
the  pace  nc^cessary  to  tak(\'" 

The  hunt(M's  were  fortunate  in  securing  occasional  deer, 
but  the  unfortunate  c(jnditi(jn  of  Erickson,  wlujse  frozen  feet 
n^'cessitated  the  amputation  of  his  toes,  retarded  their  ])i-og- 
ress,  and  ()ct(.iber  came  in  cold  and  Ijlustery  to  find  tiie  mis- 
eral)le  party  still  far  away  from  human  aid.  For  nine  days 
more  they  struggled  akjug  the  l)arren  shores  of  the  Lena  ; 
game  failed,  and  their  food  was  exhausted.  Erickscjn  died 
and  was  buried  in  the  ri\-er.  Xindemann  and  Xc^ros  startecl 
on  a  forced  marcli  for  assistance  from  the  nearest  settlement 
at  Ku  ALirk  Surka  :  they  carried  their  l)lank(^is,  one  rifle, 
forty  rounds  of  ammuniticjn,  and  two  ounces  of  alcohol  —  Init 
no  fuod  ! 

<  )]i  October  10.  De  Long  makes  the  following  entry  : — • 

"()n(  lnmdred  and  twentieth  day.  Last  half  (junci^  alcohol 
at  .">.;)()  ;  at  (i.oO  sen<l  Alexey  oil'  to  look  f<jr  ptarmigan.  Kat 
deei'skin  sc]'a]^>.  Yestei'day  moi'ning  ate  my  deerslviji  hjot- 
nips.  Light  S.S.I-],  air-.  Xot  very  cidd.  Lhider  wa\-  at 
eitihr.  Li  crossing  creek  three  of  us  got  wet.  P)uilt  fire  and 
dried  out.  Ahead  again  'imtil  e!e\'en.  Used  up.  Pjuilt 
tire.  Alade  ci  driidv  out  of  the  tea-le;ives  from  alcoliol  bottle. 
<  *u  again  at  noon.  l'"resh  S.S.W.  wind,  drifiiiu!  -now.  \  cry 
hard  Li'oiiig.  Lee  begii-iii^  lo  be  left.  Sojue  littli'  beach,  ami 
then  li.ug  >treti-lie<  of  hiu'h  bank.  ]Harmig;in  ti'ack- ])lei;t  i- 
ful.      l-'oHowinu'  Xindemann"s  tracks.     At  three  halted,  useil 


:ji;0  THE  GiiEAr  white  xohth 

up  :  crawlcil  iut(j  a  IkjIc  in  the  bank,  (•(jllcctcd  wood,  and  built 
fire.  Alcxcy  awa}'  in  ((ucst  (jf  uainc.  X(.)iliin,i;:  for  sujjper 
exc('])t  a  spoonful  of  gl\'c('rine.  All  hands  weak  and  feeble 
but  cheerful  —  ( iod  liel])  us." 

Three  da}'s  later  there  i<  an  entry.  ■"We  are  in  the  hands  of 
(iod.  and  unless  Hl'  inter\'enes  we  are  lost." 

On  October  10,  the  faithful  hunter,  Alexey,  brr)ke  down, 
and  The  next  day  he  dietl.  On  the  21>t  Kaack  Ava>  fotnid  dead 
between  the  captain  an<!  Dr.  Ambler,  and  about  noon  Lee 
died,  and  on  Oct(jber  22  l)e  Lon<i'  writes  : -- 

"One  liundred  and  thi;ly— econd,  day.  Too  weak  to  carry 
the  bodies  of  Lee  and  Kaack  out  on  the  ice.  The  doct(jr, 
Collins,  and  I  carried  them  around  tlie  C(jrner  out  of  sight  ; 
then  my  eye  ci(jsed  u])." 

On  ALjiuhiy.  Octobc^r  24.  thei'c  is  the  >im]de  entry:  "One 
liundred  and  Thirt\'-foui'th  day.  A  hard  night."  And  three 
day-  later.  "Iversen  brokcii  down."  and  the  next  day,  "I\'er- 
sen  died  during  early  m(jrning."  <  )n  ()ctober  2',*.  "<)ne  hun- 
dred and  thirty-ninth  da\'.  I)re--!er  ddfd  during  night."' 
On  ()ctober  oO.  Sunday,  tht*  last  record  ()f  the  brave  Dc  Long 
wa<  wi'ittcn:  "One  hinidrcd  audi  fonictli  day.  I^oyd  and 
Oortz  died  during  night.      Mr.  ( 'ollin-  dying." 

T!ie  forced  march  of  Xindemaim  a!id  Xoros  i-  one  of  the 
mo.-t  remai'kable  tests  of  human  -ufiVritm'  and  enduranc(>  in 
tlic  am  I  ah  of  Arctic  hi<tor}'.  It  i-  a  I'ccoi'd  of  t  ra\'c|liiig  acro-s 
the  \viIdo:-n('<s  witlioul  food  exce])t  a-  tlicy  lirouirht  diown 
an  occasional  ])tarmigan  and  Icmminu  :  -ighting  witli  the  cycs 
of  -^tarx'ing  men  a  lierd  of  deer  A\Licli  ficd  Ix'l'ore  tlie^"  ciniid 
a])proach  -iilticicnt  ly  near  to  fire  at  them  :  -t  i-ug'ihn.u' tlirouuti 
^\'r(■tcll(■d  day-  to  ci'aAvl  iiUo  a  -now  liojc  at  niutit,  where  they 
la\'  1  he  night  t  li rough  Avet  to  tlie  wai-t .  ahernately  >lcepin'i  for 
h\'e-niinut  e  int  erwil-,  one  man  I'ou-inii- 1  he  ot  her  t  liat  he  miuht 
knock  hi-  ff'Ct  t  ou'et  her  lo  kee])  1  hem  fri  mi  freeziim'  and  t  alvinu' 
up  the  m.arcli  upon  t  he  -H'enu'i  h  of  an  imu-ion  cif  Arctic  willow 


A    SKCOXD    U'lXTER   IN    TIIK   PACK  -K')! 

tea  and  l)(X)t-sole.  Crossing  a  c()U]:)l(^  of  st regains  tlu^y  s()u<i;ht 
shelter  from  a  rajijing  gale  in  a  wretcliecl  hut  wliere  a  refuse 
l)ile  of  dcvY  hones  were  hurnecl  and  eaten.  Near  another  hut 
was  found  a  littl(>  rotten  fish  —  this  .eked  out  with  strips  cut 
from  seal-skin  clothing  was  all  that  stayed  the  pangs  of  hunger 
a;^  tliey  marched  on.  The  IGth  of  October  found  their 
str(>ngth  fast  waning.  Xoros  was  complaining  of  illness  and 
s})itting  blood.  Two  days  later  they  reached  a  ])lace  set  down 
on  later  ma])s  as  Ikilcour  ;   it  consisted  of  thi'ee  (k^serted  huts. 

'"Near  by  was  a  half  kayak  with  something  in  it.  Xoros 
tasted  it.  It  was  blue  moulded  and  tastel(\~;s  to  them,  but  it 
was  fish,  and  th(\v  took  it  with  them  to  th(^  otluM'  huts.  They 
found  nothing  morc^,  and  aft(^r  gathering  some  drift-wood  tlun' 
made  a  fire  aiid  tried  to  find  some  fcxxl  in  the  mouldy  fish." 

On  h'riday,  Octobc^r  21,  tlu^y  were  too  weak  to  push  on, 
but  s])(Mit  the  day  in  cai'cful  husbanding  of  llieir  ri^sources. 
Measuring  their  fish,  they  found  that  by  taking  each  two  tin 
cu])fuls  a  day  they  had  enough  for  tern  (la\'s.  r^cwing  u])  the 
fi-<h  in  their  foot-nips  and  sktill  caps,  they  arranged  straps  to 
thes(^  bundles  for  carrying. 

The  next  day,  while  still  too  weak  to  ])1'oc(hm1,  they  heard 
a  noise  outsidi^  tlu^  hut,  like  a  flock  of  ge(\<e  sweeping  by,  and 
Xindtnnann,  seizing  his  gun  looked  1hi-ough  tiie  crack  of  the 
door.  Scnnng  something  mo\"ii!g  wb.ich  he  thought  v>-vvc 
reind(HM',  Xindemaim  advancc^d.  wluni  tlu^  door  suddenly 
op(Mied  and  a  man  stood  on  the  tlireshold.  Seeing  the  I'ilfe, 
thi'  man  fc^ll  upon  liis  knees,  but  whe!i  Xind(Mnami  rt\issur(Ml 
him  b\-  throwing  th(^  W(>ai)on  to  one  sid(\  friendly  communi- 
cation ^\'as  (Established  b(>tw(H'n  llie  stranger  and  \\\o  forloi'u 
men.  Sym])athizing  with  tluar  (les])e"r;ite  plight,  he  let  them 
know  by  signs  that  he  would  ri^turn  in  thre(>  or  foui'  hours,  or 
d:i\'s,  they  could  not  tell  which. 

Ab'out  six  o'clock  the  s:nn(^  evening,  the  stranger,  accom- 
panied by  two  ()th(M'  nati\'es.  i-e1urned,  bringing  with  them  ;i 


or>-2 


Till-:  ciiKAT  wiiiTK  yoirni 


frozen  fi-!i.  wliich  ihcy  <kitinc(l  and  .-liccd,  and  wiiile  Xindo- 
iiui!iii  and  \(;i'(;s  were  dcx'ourinjj;  the  fir.-^t  real  food  lliat  ihey 
had  had  for  many  a  da}',  the  men  hronu'ht  hi  deer-skin  coats 
n.nd  (>oot>  foi'  ihenn  A."i>tin^-  them  into  tljc  sleiu'hs,  ihev 
(h'o\-e  oif  with  them  aloni:'  the  ri\'er  To  tiie  we-tward  ior  a 
(h~-1ance  of  a^'onl  fifteea  mile.-;  to  wliere  <ome  oli,ei'  nati\"es 
were  located  in  two  tents.  These  ti'eaifil  the  sailors  witii 
^reat  kindne<-.  l-iy  siu'!!-  ;md  ])aniomime  Xoi'o--  and  Ximle- 
inann  ti'iid  in  e\'ery  i)o— idle  \\':;y  to  exj)l;dn  to  the,-e  nati\"e- 
ahont  I)e  Lonii'  and  the  I'emaintler  of  the  fii'st  cnlter's  ])arty. 
hnl  tiiey  failed  to  nsidei'-t und.,  mi'l  tA\'0  d_;;ys  latei-.  after  reach- 
ini:.'  Kn  .Mark  :-^ii''ka.  the  -ame  effort-  were  renewed  withont 
sncces-.  In  de-])air  of  -eeurinu'  a--istance.  the  men  imjiiored 
to  he  con\-eyed  to   I)ejim.    wliicii   the}'   reached  <  )er  olu-r  2i). 

An  inie!'\-iew  wit  h  th(-  eonnnaiidant  at  li.''lun  iet't  the  men 
-till  nncerlain  if  they  wei-e  nnd,er<tood.  or  the  pliu'iit  of  ])e 
honij.'-  forlorn  i)arty  niae-  ck-ar  to  rjie  ohicial.  who.  ho\\"e\-cr. 
repcao'd  that  he  woi;M  take  a  })a!)er  to  the  "  ( 'ai)tain.'"  who 
Xdndemann  >ni)])o<cd  to  he  lii<  -U])erio!'  ofiiecj-.  .<i,'k  anil 
weak  fi'om  dy-en{i.ry.  -caniily  cloilicd.  and  ii;>nhieient  ly  I'e'l. 
the  men  wi're  located  in  a  mi>e!'ahle  hut  Avhicli  h;.:d  keen 
a--iLnied  to  tiiem.  wlien  on  the  e\-eniii'i.-  of  Xo\'enikrr  '2.  l^^l. 
the  dooi'  o])r'tH''l  a!id.  a  man  dii'(--fd  in  fwr  eiitered.  A-  he 
cami'  forward,  Xoro-  exchdmed.  ■'My  'en!!  Mr.  Mel\iile! 
Are  yon  a!i\-e?  \\V  tiioU'iht  t'lat  1:;e  wha!e-!'oat-  w.-fe  all 
dcadV" 

The  <dlicia!.  haxmiLi'  ah'eadx'  kiiowf-duc  ^f  l!ie  -afctyof  the 
A\Ta!e-!i(,at '-  jiai'ty.  had  imiiiedia.t  ejy  c(  .mmuiMcat  ed  wi'li 
.M-  !\-illc,  \\!,()  ia  all  ha-t;'  came  to  I'.i'Imu.  d"he  wTaled^^a.! 
pai'ty  Wire  ii.iW'iM  their  road  from  ( '.cijnoxTaloiT'c  Oi  I'eliai. 
dTi-  iiit  !-.-ia'l  MiTTlc  w--  imw  dcici'miaeil  upon  a;i  immt-dkaie 
-canT  \' •r  ]),■  ko:|M'-.  pai'ty,  and  to  ihi-  ead  ha-tiiied  !a(T. 
m-'ci  iii;:  I  )ciica!i.  iw,r  at  nunhaT.  w Ti'i'e  he  L:a\'c  :ki!i  "a  -t  ruc- 
ti'.'i-  tn  ori  .c<-,^d  with  the  eiiiirc  |)a''t\-  to  \kikui-l-;.  a  di-;anci' 


A  llA  yJJ  ONMEX  T  3  G  >5 

of  twdxM^  huiuii'ctl  mik^s,  and  to  fonummicatc  Avith  the  Rus- 
si;iu  !j;o\-('niiiuiii  aiul  the  luitcd  tStuics  minister. 

M('l\-ill('  was  !)\-  no  means  I'ecoverod  from  his  lon<!,- ex])osure, 
and  hi>  frozen  linihs  caused  him  great  sufferin<i',  Imt  iiever- 
th.clos  ii(>  M'ent  back  over  the  ti'ack  of  Nindemaim  and  Noros 
ste])  1)>-  siej).  On  Xovem1)er  10,  the  nati\es  who  luid  accom- 
paiiifxl  him  amiounced  they  nuist  return  as  the  provisions 
wrv(^  exIiaustiMl,  but  3iI(dviUe  commanded  them  to  go  on, 
declai'itig  lii(\v  woukl  eat  dog  as  long  asthetwenity-two  kisted, 
and  vlicn  th(>se  gave  out  he  should  eat  them.  Such  deter- 
mination, won  the  day,  and  they  proceeded  to  the  sc^ttlement 
of  Xorth  ]-)(dun.  Here  a  native  brought  him  one  of  De  Long's 
I'lH'ords,  left  on  the  march.  From  these  natives  he  learned  in 
Vv'hich  dirc-ction  the  records  had  lieen  found,  and  pressing  on, 
in  s])iie  of  liis  frozen  fe(4,  which  were  in  such  a  condition  he 
could  no  longer  wear  his  moccasins,  lie  reached,  Xoveml)cr  13, 
the  iiut  wliere  D(>  Long's  first  record  had  been  left,  a  distance 
fi'om  Xoi'th  IjcIuu  of  thirt.v-three  miles.  Could  De  Long's 
chart  but  ha\'e  shown  the  native  sertlenK^it  of  Xoi'th  Belun, 
the  whole  luu'ty  would  doubtk^ss  have  been  saved. 

On  Xovember  11  following  the  northeast  hank  of  the  river 
he  came  to  th(^  shoi'es  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  found  the 
flag-staff  where  articles  from  the  first  cuttei-  liad  been  cached. 
Loading  iiis  sled  with  all  tlie  articles  found  thei'e,  including  log- 
bcK)k,  chrononu^ter  and  navigaticjn  box,  he  retiu'ucHl  to  Xorth 
I'jelun.  With  fresh  dog  teams  lu^  set  out  again  Xovember  17, 
in  an  eiifk'Hi'our  to  find  the  hut  where  Ericksou  died.  Fierce 
sloi'ins  and  lack  of  food  forced  ^Vfelville  to  take  refuge  in  a 
snow-h(jle  dug  ahout  six  feet  scjuare  and  three  or  four  feet 
deep. 

"The  storm  contimuMl  to  blow,''  writes  ^[(dville.  ''the 
whok^  of  tlsat  nigiit,  the  next  day  and  tlie  lu^xt  night.  It  was 
impossible  to  mo\'e  until  the  iKwt  day  morning,  when  it 
cleared  up  a  little,  but  in  the  mean  time,  we  had  nothing  to 


304 


Tin-:   GRKAT    WHITE  yORTII 


cat.  It  wa^  too  r~toi'my  to  malvc  a  fii'(^  to  make  tea,  and  tlie 
\ciii-(iii  lioiic-  which  ihc  uati\'('-  h;ul  d\v^  out  \vc]'c  full  (jf 
ina,ua,()t>.  W  :  choj^pcd  this  uj)  in  little  cuhcs  and  swalhjwcd 
it  A\iiol(',  v\iiirh  made  mo  so  >ick  after  it  wanned  up  in  my 
stomach  that  I  vomite(l  it  all  (Jut  a^u,ain."" 

Mel\-ille  reached  \\\\  Alark  Surka  Xcn'ember  21,  and  at 
Beluii  tlu'ee  days  latei',  after  an  absence  of  twenty-three  days, 
in  which  he  tra\-e!led  in)  le>s  than  >ix  hundred  and  >ixt\'-three 
miles  o\-er  the  tundi'a  of  Xorthern  Siberia  in  the  face  of  an 
Arctic  ^\•inter.  r])on  reachin.u'  Yakutsk  Deceml)er  IJO,  ISSl, 
where  Danenhower  and  his  ])arty  had  ])!-eceded  him,  Alelville 
retained  Xindemaim  and  Ijartlett  to  a.->ist  him  in  the  spring 
search,  and  in-trucled  DanenhoAver  to  ])rocee(l  with  tlie  (jther 
n.ine  men  to  l!-kut-]<.  di-tant  over  nineteen  lunidi'ed  miles, 
from  thence  to  Anu-iica. 

ddie  >prin,u,'  search  wa>  made  under  the  following;  instruc- 
tion- from  the  Xa\'y  l)(])artment  a1  AN'asiiington  :  ■ — 

"()mit  no  effort,  -pai'''  no  (■xj)en>e  va  securing  safety  of 
m('n  in  second  cutler.  Let  the  -ick  and  the  fi'oz(>n  of  those 
alreadx'  I'e.-cued  ha\c  e\'ery  attention,  and  as  soon  as  ])racti- 
cah'le  ha\c  tiiem  transferrid  to  a  mildei' climate.  Department 
will  -u])pl\'  neces-ai'y  fund-." 

In  the  meantime  .1.  P.  .!ack<on,  >])eclal  corre-])ondent  of 
ihe  .\'^  ■'■  )'"/■/■■  ///  ;'.•'/. '.  had,  ari'i\'ed  ;it  Irkul-k.  on  hi-  A\-ay  to  the 
Lena.  Delta,  d'li''  Xa\\'  I  )(i)art  mesit  detailed  L.  P.  Xoros 
to  acci  ,i!i])a!iy  liim.  Lieutenant  ('die-:  p,.  irarLer,  L.  S.  X'., 
acc()m])aii!i  d  hy  Ma-ter  W.  IL  Schuetze.  had  keen  .-eiit  to 
>earch  for  Lieu'^eiiant  (  'liipi)  and  hi-  jjarty. 

Mek.ihe,  wiih  Xindeniann  anil  kiartiett  as  a--i-t  aid -.  (-n- 
ga'j,ed  Leier  in;  evpri-' '•!■-  and  I'eached  L^hm  the  -econd  week 
ia  l-(  kruai'y.  .\  monih  wa-  -peni  in  col]ectin:U-  dou-  and,  pro- 
AU-ioii-  and  e-i  al '!id;i:m'  'jepot-of  -upplie-  at  Mat  \  ai  and 
Ka-!\arla.  (h:  ?\Ia!'ch  Li,  I  ^Mk  accoiapanied  I  )y  Xilide- 
Jiiami,    Ml  k.-Iile   piMceiVin!    i  i  ■,   a   ])lace   called    I'-terda,    whei't^ 


Melville's  semkh  8G5 

Captain  Do  Long  had  crossed  the  river  to  tlic  westward.  A 
search  was  now  made  for  the  hut  where  Erickson  had  died. 

Snow  covered  the  country  and  effectively  ohhterated  all 
traces  of  previous  travellers.  Storms  forced  their  return  1o 
Kas  Karta,  and  a  fresh  start  was  made.  The  party  dividend 
to  insure^  a  more  thorough  search. 

"We  followed  the  bay,"  says  Air.  ]\Ielville  in  his  narrative, 
''until  late  in  the  evening,  having  visited  all  the  headlands; 
finally  we  came  u])  to  the  large  river  with  the  broken  ice.  I 
jum])ed  upon  the  headland  or  point  of  land  making  down  in 
the  hay  and  found  wlu^re  an  immense  fire  had  been  made. 
The  fire-  bed  was  probably  six  f(H>t  in  diameter,  large  drift- 
logs  hove  into  it,  and  a  large  fire  made,  sucli  as  a  signal  hre. 
I  then  hailed  Xindemann  and  the  natixes,  saying  'Jlei'e  ih(\v 
are!'  Th(W  thought  tliat  I  had  found  the  placi^  where  the 
De  Long  ]:)arty  had  been.  Xind(>mann  came  upon  the  ]M.)i]it 
of  land,  and  said  that  neither  he  nor  Xoros  had  made  a  fire 
of  that  kind,  onl\'  a  small  fire  in  the  cleft  of  a  bank  ;  but  he 
was  sure  that  this  was  tlu>  point  of  land  tlxy"  had  turned  going 
to  the  west^vard,  and  that  this  was  tlu^  river  ahjng  which  he 
and  Xoros  had  come.  ..." 

"It  is  th(^  custom  of  the  people  here,"  continues  Aleh-ille, 
"in  making  a  search  to  go  facing  tli(>  river  and  wlicn  they  S(>e 
anytliing  to  attract  them,  dro])  off  tlu^  sled  and  (wamiiu^  it, 
or  pick  it  up  and  go  on.  In  this  manner,  about  five  hundred 
yards  from  \\\c  ])oint  where  tlie  iii'e  had  been,  I  saw  the  j^oints 
of  four  stick.s  standing  u])  out  of  th(>  snow  about  eighteen 
inches,  and  lashed  together  with  a  piece  of  ro])e.  Seeing  this, 
I  dropi)ed  off  I^h^  sled,  and  going  \\\)  to  tlu^  ])lace  on  the  snow 
bank,  I  found  a  1^'mington  I'ifle  slung  across  the  jioints  of  the 
slicks,  and  \\\o  nuizzle  about  (Mglit  inches  out  of  \\\v  snow. 
'V\\v  d.)g-ilriver.  seeing  I  had  found  something,  came  bnck 
witli  the  sled,  and  I  sent  him  to  Xindeinann  to  tell  \\\\\\  to 
come  back,  he  liaving  gone  as  fai'  up  the  ri\-ei'  as  the  fiat -boat. 


ot)t; 


Till-:  (r]!i:AT  WHITE  yoniii 


W'hcii  tlicy  rciurni'd  1  >iari('(l  the  ruuix'c-  to  diu'^in'j,'  out  th(> 
>niAV-I)ank  uiiari'iicath  the  t('!it-])ol('>.  1  <u])];(j>c(i  tliut  tiic 
pari}'  had  ii'ot  tirci!  of  caiTvin^'  their  hooks  and  ])ai)i'r<,  and 
had  made  a  deposit  (A  tlieni  al  lhi>  i)l;icc.  and  i-rectcd  these 
pole-  o\'er  the  j)apei-s  and  hook-  a-  a  landniarl';.  th;i.t  they 
miu'ht  I'elurn  aiid  >ecu!-e  them  in  case  the\'  arrixcd  ;;_t  a  \)\i<a'{' 
of  -afel\'.  Xindeiiianu  and  I  .-tood  arotnid  a  hllle  vvlhle. 
U'()i  upon  the  hank,  and  look  a  hjok  at  the  ri\-er.  .>,  iuiienian;; 
saM  he  would  lio  to  the-  nor'  hwai'd.  and  -ee  if  he  could  d;-co\-(-r 
an.N'ihinii;  of  the  tra.ck  and  Inid  the  \va\'  t<j  lirickson's  hut.  I 
tool-;  the  c()ni])a>s  ;ind  ])roe(^eded  lo  i  he  >outhvrard  to  ,uct  the 
hearinii-  of  Stijlhox'oi  anil  Mat  \  ah  >o  I  might  rt-turn  there 
that  night  in  ca-e  it  came  oji  t(j  hlow. 

"In  ])roceeiliiio-  io  a  ])o;ni  to  -er  u])  tlic  c()m])a-s.    T  saw  a 

tea-kettle  liarliallv  htU'ied  in  the  -now.  Hue  of  llie  l]aTi\'(:^ 
had  foll<jv.'e(l  me.  and  I  jjoiuieil  (Hit  to  him  ihe  ke"tle,  aiid, 
ajh'alicing  to  ])ick  it  U]).  I  caine  up^'U  th('  ho<lie-  of  tlil^'-e  men. 
p;irtial!\'  hurieil  in  the  -now.  one  hiOid  reaching  eait  with  the 
l(-ft  arm  oi'  the  man  raix  d  v.-.-iv  aiiox;-  liie  -urfaee  (;f  the  .-n(  \v 
—  hi-  whiile  i'-fi  arnu  I  imm'd';i  I  i-ly  re''o;m;/''d  tiieu!  as 
('■i])ta!n  l)e  Loiig.  Dr.  .\niole!-.  -nd  Ah  >am.  the  co(ik.  'h!:e 
captain  atid  the  do'-tor  wi^re  l\-inir  wi'h  tied'  'i^'ad-  to  d:e 
noi-ihwai'd.  face  1(»  thi'  v,"e-t.  and  Ah  ^-Ani  wa-  I\  hui.-  at  riulu 
aULil"--  to  the  o'her  W'n.  w\\\i  hi-  heal  cAout  tci-  Hoelor's 
middle,  and  i'<-ct  in  the  litv,  o--  wheo^  the  lire  had  t.ecn.  d"hi- 
firepl;t'-e  w;i-  -urrouiided  hy  dri ft -\\-o o  i .  iijimen-e  triinl-;-  of 
tiv,-.   ;md    tlcy   had   iheir  fir-   in    th"  "i'Do-h   of  a    larire   iivc. 

Tii.y  had  earried  li,c  tead.etd''  up  there,  an  !  li^  ,t  a  Inl  <  il  \rr\\r 
willow-  wAieh  t!;.'y  u-ed  for  t-a.  and  -'ilee  lee  o)  iiiake  wate]' 
i'mt  ;l;i-!r  ii-a.  and  had  a  hi'e.  dd.e;r  a  j  ij -a  !'e;;t  ly  ii'td  af.  n:i)ied 
T')  I  ar:'\-  th-i:'  ''mo';-  a.nd  pa]ier-  uo  tl:i  re  on  ihi-  hiuh  peinl, 
hccau-e   i!:.'y  eai'iAA   th''  ejart    ca-c  \\],  ;  la  re.   and    I   -ini[io-e 

'  aiU'-  .  i!   L!>  eau  '.O  I  i!'   '  he  '  A:h   la  iid   pri'Vf  a'  <     |   1  ' ,  i  f  r  i  i  i  :  l  la  i- 

I  LI  I   I  hi'  ri  -i  o!'  1  :ieir  h(,oi,-  and  oa|  )i  r-       Xo  do.ii  t  t  iiex' 


A 


mklville's  search  307 

isaw  that  if  tluy  (li(xl  on  the  river  Ijed,  where  the  water  runs, 
th(^  s])rin,i2;  freshets  \voukl  curry  them  olf  \o  sea. 

"I  .iiaThered  up  all  tlie  small  ailieles  lying  around  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  dead.  1  found  the  ic(>  journal  about  three  or 
four  f(H>t  in  the  rear  of  De  Lon<;- ;  that  is,  it  looked  as  though 
he  had  1  :een  lying  down,  and  with  his  left  hand  tossed  the  book 
o\'('r  hi-  shoulder  to  the  rear,  or  to  the  eastwaixl  of  him." 

■'I'eferring  to  tlu^  journal,"  continues  ^Melville,  "I  found 
tiiat  tlu^  whok^  of  the  people"  were  now  in  the  lee  of  the  l)ank,  in 
a  dist;aic("  of  about  five  hundred  yards.  In  the  meantime, 
the  native  that  had  gone  for  Xindemann  had  brought  him 
l)ack." 

"The  three  bodies  were  all  frozen  fast  to  the  snow,  so  fast 
that  it  was  necessary  to  pry  them  loose  with  a  stick  of  tinif)er. 
\\\  turning  over  Dr.  Amider,  1  was  surprised  to  find  T3e  Long's 
|)i-t()l  in  liis  right  hand,  and  tlien,  observing  the  fdood-.-tained 
mouth.  l)(>ard,  and  snow,  I  at  first  thought  that  he  had  ])ut  a 
violent  end  to  his  misery.  A  careful  (examination,  however,  of 
the  UHiiith  and  head  revealed  ru.)  woimd,  and,  releasing  th("  pis- 
tol from  its  tenacious  death-grasp,  I  saw  that  otdy  three  of  its 
cluunbcrs  contained  carti'idgc^s,  which  were  all  loaded^  and  then 
knew,  of  course,  that  h("  could  not  luive  harmed  liimself,  els(^ 
oue  ormortMif  the  capsules  would  b(M'mpty.  ...  1  Ijelieve 
hi!  11  to  liave  \)vv\\  the  hist  of  the  imf(.)rtimate  ]:)arty  to  perish. 
A\'lien  \\\  Sam  had  been  stretclu-d  out  and  his  hands  crcjssed 
i;]).>u  liis  bireast,  ]3e  l.oug  a]:)]:);u'(>ntiy  crawled  a\va\'  and  dietl. 
Tlien.,  :-oIitary  and  fami>liing,  in  that  desolate  sC("U(^  of  death, 
])r.  Ambler  secerns  to  have  taken  the  pistol  from  the  corpse  of 
l)e  Long.  doubtle><  in  tli(>  liojX'  tb.at  some  bird  or  b(^ast  might 
(■■-•me  to  ])rey  UjXin  tlie  bodie-  and  afford  him  food,  —  perha])s 
al'.iiic  to  ])i'otect  his  dead  conn'aib^s  from  m(jle<tation,  —  in 
eithi^r  ca<e.  or  liotli,  thei'e  lie  ke]")t  liis  lone  watch  to  the  last, 
on  duty,  on  guard,  un(](>r  arms." 

It  now  icniained  l)tit  to  find  the  otlu'r  lujdit^s  and  l)urv  the 


•■;(»«  Till':  (niEAT  white  yoiiTii 

(lead.  In  due  tinu^  tliis  was  acconi))lislic(l.  Melville  writes 
oi'   the  .-])(.)t    eh()-<'U   as  follows  :  — 

"I'lie  iiurial  giound  is  on  a  hold  promcjiitory  with  a  per])en- 
dieiilar  face  overlookini^'  the  frozen  polar  sea.  The  rcjcky 
hi'ad  of  the  mountain,  ecdd,  austere  as  the  Spliinx,  frowns 
upon  the  s])ot  where  tlie  part\-  perished  ;  and  considerinti;  its 
weatlier-heat<-n  and  time-worn  a>])ect,  it  is  altofi'etlier  fitting 
that  here  they  should  rest.  I  attained  the  crest  of  the  i)rom- 
(;ntory  hy  makin,;;'  a  detour  of  several  miles  to  the  southward 
of  its  maj(>stic  front,  and  then  t(_)iling  slowly  to  the  to]).  Here 
I  laid  out  hy  com]);i>-  a  due  north  and  sotith  line,  and  one  due 
east  and  west,  and  where  the\'  inter.-ected,  I  jilanted  the  cross 
\\hich  luark-  tlu^  tomi)  of  my  c(.)mrades." 

■'There  in  sis^ht  of  the  spot  ^\'here  they  fell,  the  sc(>ne  of  their 
sufferin,<i;  and  luroic  endea\()i',  whei-e  the  everlasting  snows 
would  he  tlieir  winding  sheet  and  the  herce  ])olar  hlasts  \\hich 
pierced  their  ])oor  unclad  hodics  in  life,  wotdd  M'ail  their  wild 
dii'gc  ihr(.)ugli  all  time,  —  there  we  hiuried  them,  and  surely 
heroes  never  found  a  fitter  r(  >ting  ])lace."' 

hieutf'nant  ITai'her  was  also  in  the  field,  as  was  Air.  Jackson, 
eorre>p()ndenT  of  the  X<ir  )'nrl:  lit  raid.  A  tliorough  search 
A\-a:-  made  of  the  Delta  for  ('hi])])"s  |)arty,  without  a\-ail. 

('oiigre-s  lia\-ing  a])i)i'o))riat ed  s-J.'.OOO  for  the  expense  of 
hriuging  home  \n  America  the  hodies  ol'  l)e  Long  and  his 
ntiiortunate  par1\',  Lieut<'nant  Ilai'her  a'.d  AIa>tei'  Scliuetze 
n|'  liie  relief  >hi])  l!(iij(  I's.  M'hicli  had  l)een  hurtie*!  off  the  coast 
of  Sihei'la  in  Decemher.  jssl.  left  tlie  Lena  in  Iss;!  al'ter  a 
\eai''>  >earcli,  hrinuhig  with  llu-m  tlie  I'cmains. 


i;i,\i(    ,\iiMii;\i.   !li,iii;(.i:    W.    M I  i,\  I  M.i:.    I'.S.X. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

lutoniatioiuil  circuinpolar  stations.  —  ]'"ailur(>  of  Dutch  expedition. 

—  Cirecly  cxixHlition  reaches  Lady  FrankUn  Bay.  —  Life  at  Fort 
ContXv-]-.  -  Shnliie  journey  of  lirainard  and  Lockwood.  —  Farthest 
nortli.  —  Cii'eely's  journey  to  interior  of  GrinneU  ].and.  —  Lake 
liazen.  -  -l-'ailure  of  relief  shiji  Xeptunc  to  reach  Conger  in  1SS2. 

—  Official  plans  for  Greely"s  relief  in  1SS3.  — Prokus  crushed  in 
ic(>. — Carlington's  retreat.  —  Greely's  abandonment  of  Fort 
Conner. — Greely  reaches  Cape  Sabine. — The  beginning  of  a 
hai'd  wimer.  —  Death  of  members  of  the  part}' from  starvation 
and  cold.  —Schley's  brilliant  rescue  of  the  renuiant  of  the  Lady 
I'ranklin  Hay  expedition  in  18S4. 

TiiK  plan  for  (>stablishing  International  Circmnpolar  Sta- 
tions within  or  near  the  Arctic  Cii'cle,  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
cording a  conipl(>te  series  of  synchronous  meteorological  and 
magnetic  observations,  was  otitlined  in  a  w(dl-thought-ont 
pa])(>r  delivered  by  Lieutenant  Karl  A\'eyprecht,  A.  H.  Xavy, 
before  the  (Jernum  Scientific  and  Medical  Association  of 
Cratz  in  St^ptember,  1875,  soon  after  tlu^  return  from  his 
renuirkable  journey  in  the   TcgetthoJ. 

Though  Lieutenant  AVeypreclit  did  not  live  to  see  his  splen- 
did sclu^mc  carri(>(l  into  eiT(>ct.  tlu^  coojXTation  of  Prince 
Bisuiai'ck  and  the  hearty  intlorsement  of  the  plan  by  a  com- 
mission of  eminent  scientists,  as  w(dl  as  the  decision  of  the 
international  Meteorological  Congress,  which  rei)orted  "that 
these  v)l)servati()ns  will  b(>  of  tlu>  highest  importance  in  devel- 
oping mcneol■olo^y  and  in  ext(>nding  otir  knowknlge  of  terres- 
trial magnetism. ■■  re-ulted  in  the  International  Polar  Con- 
ference, at  Hamburg,  October  1,  LS79,  in  which  eleven  nations 
v.'ere  re])re>ented,  and  a  s(>cond  conference  at  Rerne,  August  7, 
L'>SO,  at  which  it  was  decided  that  each  nation  shotild  estab- 


;!70 


TUI-:  (;uEAr  wiiiTi-:  yonrii 


lisli   one   or  iiiort^   stati(ni<  where    syuclir(iiious  (jbser\-ati(.)ns 
.-hould  !)(■  taken  i'nuii  Au,u-u>t,   1SS2. 

Willi  the  txce])tioii  of  the  Dutch  expecUtioii.  the  schenio 
wa>  .-ucee-^fuhy  carried  out  and  tlie  stations  e>tabli>lied  witli- 
out  acciileut. 

Xorwe,uians —  l^osekof.  Ahen  Fjord,  Xorway,  under  cUrcH'titju 
of  AI.  Ak<cl  S.  Steen. 

Swetles  —  Ice  Fj(jrd.  Spitzbergen,  under  direction  of  Mr. 

I-^kliolni. 

Ru--ians  —        v^agastyr    L-lanch    nujuth    of    Lena.    Siberia, 
under  Lieutenant  Jiirgens. 
ALdler  l^>a\'.  Nbn'a  Zenibla,   under  Li(nitt'nant 
An(h'cicf. 

Arnt  ricans  —     Point  liarrow.  North  America,  under  Lieuten- 
ant Lay,  L.  S.  A. 
Lady  Franldin  La\'.  Np  hi'  X.,  under  Lieuten- 
ant A.  ^\■.  (bveiy,  r.s.  A. 

EngUsli  —  Clreat  Skive  Lake,  Dominion  of  CanacUi,  under 

Lieutenant   Da\\>on. 
(lerman    -         Cumberland  I^a}'  --  we-t  >ide  of  Da\'is  Strait, 

under  Dr.  (  oe-e. 
J);iiie- — -  (lodthaab.  ( 'ii'(>e!iland,  under  A.  Paul>en. 

Austrian —       Jan    ALiyen,   Xoi'th    .\l!aiil:c.    71'     X.,   under 

Lieiitenant  \\'(;hlueneuth.  A.  IL  X;i\'\'. 


Astothe  unsucc('S-i'ul  Duteh  exjiedition.  the  ]"'//■/"/  saiknl 
from  Am^terilani  .!ul\'  •").  l'^'^l2,  bound  for  Dick.-MU  Harbor, 
biit  was  lie<(M  in  the  Kara  Sea  in  Se])t  embcie  >lieA\-a>  cruslied 
in  Decemlier.  l'^'^2.  when  the  (a'e^\■  took  refuiiv  on  boaivl 
Lieutenant  no\-t:';ia!'d'-  \'e<-el,  the  />//////,■///",  A\'hich  had  al.-o 
been  \',yc,'i]  1(1  wintei'  in  the  i)ack.  Xe\'ert  hele--^,  Dj-.  Snellen 
did  hi<  utinii-t  to  ])roenre  reLL'ular  ol '--er\"at  ion-  from  tluir 
L'e.-elment  until  the  fullowing  Auu'ust.  when  tliex'  slartetl  1a' 


VAILUUE   OF  J)VT(;U   EXrEDITlOy  oil 

boat  and  slcd.i^c  for  the  coast  of  Xova  Zembla.  By  August 
2"),  tlu'v  reached  the  south  point  of  W'aigat  Island,  where  they 
met  the  \(ir(l(  /isLjold  and  were  safely  landed  in  Ilaninierfest, 
Sei)teniher  1,  18S;^. 

The  ine.-iinial)le  value  of  the  combined  and  systematic 
record  of  the  scientific  observations  secured  by  the  Inter- 
national Circumpolar  Stations  is  a  matter  of  public  record. 
The  success  was  complete,  and  all  l)ut  the  American  nation 
might  well  be  proud  of  the  management  and  protection  of- 
fered to  tlie  fearless  men  detailed  to  tlie  s})lendid  work. 

The  un])aralleled  disaster  wliich  overtook  the  Lady 
Franklin  P)ay  expedition  under  Lieut(~nant  (ireel\-  and  his 
hirave  com])anions.  thixnigh  no  fault  of  their  own,  but  by  a 
series  of  mismanaged  accidents  for  which  there  was  neither 
excuse  ]ior  condonatiijii,  lea\"es  a  blot  U])on  the  American  rec- 
oi'ds  which  the  centuiies  cannot  obliterat(\ 

"If  the  si!n])le  and  necessary  ])r(H'aution  had  lieen  taken," 
wrii(\--  -Marlvham.  brotlier  of  the  famous  expkjrer.  '"of  >tation- 
ing  a  de]iot-s|ii])  in  a  good  hai'bour  at  the  entrance  of  .'^milh 
Souu'l,  in  annual  c(jmmunication  with  (ii-eely  on  one  side  and 
witli  America  on  tlie  other,  there  would  liave  Ix'en  no  disas- 
ter" :  and  he  c{.)ntinues,  "If  ])recautions  jiroved  to  be  neces- 
s;u-\'  by  ex])ei'ience  are  taken,  ihere  is  no  undue  risk  or  danger 
in  polar  enleiprises.  There  is  no  (iuesti(jn  as  to  the  \-alue 
;nid  im])oriance  of  polar  discovery,  and  as  to  the  i)rinci])lcs 
on  which  ex])editions  should  b(^  sent  out.  Theii'  objfM'ls  are 
ex]:)!orat  ion--  for  scientific  pui"i)o.-e>  and  tlie  enc(juragement  of 
inaril  ime  ent('r])ris(\" 

Lieutenani  (li'eely's  party  consisted  of  three  officers  besides 
the  comm.andei'.  nineteen  men  of  the  army,  including  an 
a-tronomer.  a  ))}iotogra])h(M-.  and  meteorologist,  and  t^vo 
lv-!dnio-.  Sailing  from  St.  .h)hn'<,  Xewfoundland.  July  7, 
bS'^1.  1iiey  wei'e  C()n\-eye(j  in  the  >ealer.  /'/'n/rz/.v,  to  Liltlelon 
1-land.  where  the}'  hunted  U})  the  mail  of  the  Al(  rt  and  Dis- 


;)72  TlIK   GREAT    WHITE   yOllTlI 

coreri/,  then  ])ro('('(Hl('(l  in  opvn  water  to  (.'ii\)v  \.w\)vv,  <S]°  'A~'  N. 
'riuTc  the  ship  was  (lela\-('(l  by  cucountcriuji;  ice  in  Hall  Basin, 
i^y  Au,u;ust  11,  she  had  jjiished  through  and  safely  landed  the 
party  at  the  old  winter  ([uarters  of  the  Discorcri)  m  187o- 
1S7().  Innnediate  l)reparati()ns  were  made  for  buildina;  a 
liouse,  and  after  all  sui)plies  were  landed,  the  J^rolcnx  sailed 
home,  leax'in.u'  Lieutenant  (ireely  and  his  party  at  "rort 
Conjivr."  Indications  of  approaching  winter  appeared  as 
early  as  August  27,  and  the  season  ])ro\'ed  one  of  unusurJ 
severity.  Sledge^  journtys,  hunting  ])arti(^s,  and  exjjloring 
trips,  combined  with  regular  duties,  sci(>ntific  obserx'ations, 
exercise  and  moderate  amusements,  insiu'ed  the  party  a  sea- 
son of  successful  labour  and  good  lundth. 

Travelling  in  one  instanc(^  a  we(>k,  in  another  ten  d;iys,  in 
frightful  temperatures  avei'aging  7.'^°  below  freezing,  Lieuten- 
ant Lockv.'ood  and  Dr.  ().  Pa\'y,  sui'geon  of  the  ex])edition, 
with  thc^ir  companions,  (iidured  the  se\-eril\-  with  sur])rising 
encM'gy.  Th(>  ice  conditions  of  liobeson  Channel  were  a-ctn- 
tained  and  depots  established  at  Cape  Sunmer  for  us(>  in  ihe 
following  s])ring. 

The  sun  left  on  October  15,  and  was  absent  one  liundred 
and  thirty-five  days.  The  curious  effect  U])on  the  mind 
produccnl  by  the  long  Arctic  night  is  recorded  in  Decemb.ei'. 
"About  the  10th, "'  writes  Lieutenant  C.reely  in  his  Hc^port, 
"a  few  of  the  men  ga\'('  indications  of  hieing  nffected  l)y  tlu^ 
(•(jntinual  dai'kness,  but  such  signs  soon  di,-;i])j)enr('d  and 
cheei'ful  s])irits  i-eturncd.  'Hie  l•;skimo-^  ai)])''arcd  to  be  the 
most  affe(-led.  ( )n  the  l.'Sth.  Jens  Ivlwai'd  di-appeai'cd, 
Icax'ing  ihe  station  in  eai'ly  morniiig,  witluuit  mi!!cii<  and 
without  bi-cal<fa^1.  Sending  tA\'o  ])ai'tie<  \\itli  l.iiil  I'lus  to 
de>c!'ibe  ;i  !i;ilf-niile  circle  ;ii-ound  the  station,  hi-  ti'acr;<  were 
soon  found,  leading  towards  the  >tr;iit-.  He  \\;i-  ;it  once 
])ur-ue(!,  and  was  o\-ei'taken  about  ten  mile-  from  the  >l;ilion, 
Ileal'  ('ape  .MiU'clii-on.      He  I'etui'ned   to  t!ie  slalion    uithout 


SLKDGE  JornXEY    0¥   BRAIN AUI)   AM)   LOCKU'OOI)   o~-j 

ol)j(H'ti()U,  and  in  time  n^covercd  his  spirits.  Xo  cause  for 
liis  action  in  this  respect  could  he  asc(Mtaine(h" 

l)v.  Pavy,  who  had  s])ent  the  previous  year  among  the 
Eskinicjs,  said  that  tliis  state  of  mind  ^vas  not  infreciuent 
amon<i-  the  natives  of  lower  Greenland,  and  often  resulted  in 
the  wanderinii;  off  of  the  subjects  of  it,  and,  if  not  followed,  by 
their  ])erishin.u;  in  the  cold. 

As  early  as  February  19,  1882,  Lockwood  and  Brainard 
made  a  dog-sledge  trip  to  one  of  tli(>  depots,  deposit(Hl  the 
])i'e\-i()us  autumn,  a  journey  over  the  foot-ice  of  twenty  miles. 
On  the  2i)th  of  February,  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  accompanied 
by  L^rainard.  four  other  men,  and  two  dog  teams,  made  an 
expcM'imcmtal  trip  to  Thank  Ciod  narl)or  preparatory  to  his 
pr()])osed,  grand  expedition  along  the  coast  to  northern 
( b'cenland.  Msiting  the  grave  of  Charl(^s  Francis  Hall, 
J^ockwood  wrote  in  his  journal  the  following  touching  trib- 
ute :  — 

■■The  head-board  erected  l)y  his  comrades,  as  also  the  me- 
tallic one  l(-ft  by  the  English,  still  stands.  How  mournful  to 
me  the  scen(\.  made  more  so  In'  the  howling  of  the  winds  and 
the  thick  atmosphere  I  It  was  doubtless  best  that  he  died 
whei'e  ]\o  did.  I  have  come  t(j  regard  liim  as  a  \'isionary  and 
an  eiilhusiast.  who  \vasindel)te(l  more  to  fortune  than  to  those 
l)ractical  abilities  wliicli  Kane  possessed.  Yet  lie  ga\-e  liis 
life  to  the  cau-e.  and  that  must  always  g(j  far  toward  redeem- 
ing the  shortcomings  of  any  man.  Tlu^  concluding  lines  of 
the  in-('rii)iion  on  the  I-JUilish  tablet.  I  think  good.  "To 
Captain  Hall,  who  -acrificed  his  \Uv  in  the  advancement  of 
science.  Xo\-einb,er  8.  1871.  This  tablet  has  been  erected  by 
the  l)riti<h  ])olar  ex]i(^!ition  of  1875.  wliich  followed  in  his 
footsteps  and  ])rolited  ]»y  his  experienc(\"' 

Dr.  Pa\'}'.  accoinpanied  by  Sergeant  Rice  and  Eskimo  Jens 
with  a  dou--sl(>dge.  started  March  1!).  1882.  for  the  north  of 
Grinnell   Laud.     A  supporting  .-ledge  under  Sergeant    Jewell 


■niK  (;i;eat  wiirn:  yoinii 


acc()!ii]);ai!f(l  him  us  far  as  Lincolu  l^ay.  ( )n  April  1,  an  unfor- 
limatc  accitlciit  to  a  sledge  ruiiucr  caused  a  fi\c  (la\'n'  delay 
al  ('ape  I'tiiijii.  Ser_ti-eaiit  Kice  and  r^-kiino  Jens  made  ti 
iorced  nuu'cii  hack  tu  h"(jrt  ( 'oiij^cr  and  secured  a  new  rumier. 
>l(jrms  retardi'd  their  ad\'anc(\  hut  in  >p'ite  (jf  the  r()U(i,h  condi- 
tion of  the  ice,  all  sui)])lics  were  hriju^'ht  up  t(j  ( 'a])e  .Jos(>j)h 
ilcnr\-  and  left  there  Ajjril  20.  Tw(j  days  later  a  N'iolent 
storm  -et  in,  and  aft(-r  it  suh-ided,  the  paity  pushed  on  to^\ard 
('a])e  Ilecla.  A  lane  (jf  o])en  water  was  >een  extendin<i;  i'rom 
Ci'ozii'r  Island  round  ('a])e  Ilecla.  As  this  channel  i'ai)idly 
increa-cd  in  width,  a  r(-lreiit  was  decided  on,  but  to  his  c(jn- 
sTernati(jn,  hefore  land  could  he  reached.  Dr.  Pa\'y  found 
himself  adrift  on  a  floe  in  the  Polar  Ocean.  FoUunately  the 
floe  ^\■as  dri\'en  a,uain-t  the  land  near  ( "ai)e  Ilenr}'.  iind  after 
ahand.oninti  all  article.-  u<jt  ah>olutely  indi-i)ensa!)le,  he 
esca])('d  t(j  the  mainland,  but  was  obli^'ed  to  <ii\'e  u])  further 
exj)lorati(ji!.-. 

In  lh(;  meantime.  Lieutenant  L(jckwood  had  c(.)m])lete(l 
hi-  1) reparations,  and  the  advance  ]^arty,  con-i-tin^'  of  Seruvant 
I-irainard  and  nine  men  drauuinu'  four  Hudson  W-ax  >1c(1-j,cs, 
left  b'ort  Coniicr  Ajjril  '■'■>,  \Ss2.  to  Ix-  f(»lloWi'd  the  next  da\-  by 
Lieutf'Uaut  I.ockwood  with  two  men  and  (^ne  dou— led,u"'', 
uiiilcr  ii!-truct  ions  to  ex])lore  the  coa-t  of  (ireeiiland  lu^ar 
('ape  Iji'itaiuiia  "in  such  (lirection  as  die!  thought  be<t 
to  cai'ry  (,ut  tlie  objects  o\  the  'mainj  expedit  ion, --- t  he 
(•x'eii-ioii  of  kiKrwiciIov  re^'ardin,ii'  lands  within  the  Ai'ctic 
Circl.^-' 

d'iie  oth  of  April,  Loc]<wood  joined  tfie  ad\'ancc  j)a:'t\"ar 
Depot  A.  On  tlie  afteinoon  of  theSth,  they  I'eached  ( 'ajM' 
Sumiief.  liali-  of  ))f-mmic;ui  AVel'e  ad;ded  to  the  -lediie  l^ad- 
f'lr  do^■  food.  Tiie  jiartie-  eiMMjimtei'ed  \-iolei)1  U'ale-  :uid 
exlreme  coM  sl'  b.^he.v  free/.ine-i  a-  they  ])U-hed.  mm  to  X^w- 
m:;ii  I'ciy.  Tlie  h.'ird  ex| )erie;  1  c. ■  of  -!'-i|n',.  tra\'el  wa-  already 
telliim  Upon  the  men,  and  at  thi-    ])(jint  I'our  were  .-ent  back. 


FA  R  r  HE  ST  Nonrn  375 

Ix'ino-  unfit  for  contimiod  fiekl  work.  Pushing;  on  for  Rcpulsf^ 
nart)or.  Avith  three  hundred  rations  and  ei<j;lit  nicni,  L(j{'kwood 
advanccnl  in  th(>  face  of  storms,  rough  ice,  and  broken  sledp;es, 
at  th(^  averaii'e  ral(^  of  nine  miles  ])vr  (kiy.  The  men  suf- 
ferinl  mucli  from  siiow-ljlinthiess,  and  tlie  unwonted  fati.u;ue  of 
dr;i,<2;ii'in»;  th(^  heavy  sledges  through  arcvis  of  soft,  d(>ep  snow. 
At  ( 'ai)(^  I jryatit,  which  was  readied  Ai)ril  27,  a  rest  of  two  days 
was  taken,  during  which  Jirainard,  with  two  com])anions, 
visit(Hl  the  highest  point  of  Cai)e  Tulford. 

On  tlu!  29th  of  May,  Li(>utenant  Lockwood  s(^nt  back  the 
su])porting  sledge-men  and,  with  Hraiuai'd  and  the  Iiiskimo 
Christ enstni,  \\w  dog-sledge  and  twenty-five  days'  rations, 
])Ui'sued  liis  journcw  nortli  across  the  Polar  Ocean  to  Cape 
liritannia,  which  was  readied  ^lay  5,  after  six  journe\-s,  the 
last  a  viny  short  on(\ 

"From  the  top  of  the  mountain,  2050  feet,"  writes  Lock- 
wood,  "which  forms  Ca])e  Bi'itannia,  I  got  a  good  view  all 
around.  Towards  th(>  northeast  lay  a  succession  of  headlands 
and  inlets  as  far  as  1  could  see  —  some  15  or  20  miles  —  and 
this  was  the  charact(n'  of  the  coast  b(>yond   as  fur  as  1  got.'' 

The}'  had  followed  out  the  letter  of  their  instruct ioll^  and 
had  rc^ached  the  destination  meutioned  tluMxan,  l)ut  finding  it 
pos>il)li^  to  continue  th(>ir  ex])lorations,  they  pushed  on  over 
htiid  ne\-er  before  exj)lor(Ml  by  man,  ci'ossing  the  fi'ozen  ocean 
and  r(>achii)g  Mary  Murray  Iskmd  the  10th  of  May.  Tlu> 
]):uty  w(>re  now  suffering  from  cold  and  insuflicient  food, 
d'o  hu-!)and  tlidr  rations,  th(\v  h.ad  eat(Mi  v(.ny  little  of  late. 

"The  dogs  were  ravenous  foi'  food,  and  wluni  feeding  time 
ciune,  it  was  amid  l)lows  from  the  men  and  fights  among  the 
(log>  that  llie  distribution  was  made." 

In  s])!!!'  of  >erious  d(d:!ys  by  \iolent  wind  and  storms,  l)y 
floes  so  liigh  tii.'il  the  >ledge  was  loweriMl  by  dog-traces;  by 
ice  so  I'ough  a-  to  neces-ital'-  tlie  use  of  the  axe  before  th(\V 
t'ould  advance,  and  bv  widening   Avater  cracks  which  delax'ed 


:;.t)  Tin:  (;i:k.ij    wiiiti-:  south 

tli("ir  ])r(),u'r('ss.  these  men  jjiislied  boldlx-  on,  and  on  May  lo, 
LSS2,  made  a  woi'ld's  record.  reachin<;'  on  that  d'dy  L(j('k\vood 
I.-land,  (S;-)'  2i'  nfjrth  hititude.  42''  Ui'  ^ve^t  lon^iitude.  l!ain- 
in.ti  a  consideralJe  ele\"ation,  L(jckwood  unfurled  Mrs. 
(ireely's  prett}"  httle  silken  flag  and  "for  the  fir.-t  time  in 
two  hundi-e(l  and  se\■ent^■-fi^■e  years  ancjther  nation  than  Knii;- 
land  claimeil  the  honors  of  the  farthest  north,  and  the  Ldiioii 
Jack  ,L!;a\'e  way  to  the  Stars  and  Stri])e>." 

Frijui  this  point  the  most  nortlierl\-  land  seen  was  (/a])e 
A\'asliinji1(jn  ;  beyoiid  to  the  iKjrth  "hiy  an  unhj'oken  expanse 
of  ice.  interrupted  only  by  the  horizon."  IIa\'en  ('oa>t 
trendcfl  to  the  northeast,  in  a  succes>ion  of  high,  rocky,  and 
precipitous   pronicjutoi'les. 

r>\'idences  of  \'egetati(jn  and  game  were  found  in  this  high 
latitude.  Lenunings.  ])tarmigan.  fox('S,  and  hai'e,-  lound  their 
^\■ay  to  these  desolate  shoi'cs,  and  -mall  |)lants  strugule*'  f(ir  a 
footh(jld  in  the  uncongenial  -^oil. 

'■A<  we  think  of  Lockwood."  write-  Charles  Laimian,  his 
biosxi'aphei'.  "'at  the  end  of  his  jounicy,  witli  onl}' two  com- 
])anions,  in  that  land  of  utter  desolation,  we  are  struck  with 
a.dmiration  at  the  courage  and  maidy  -i)irit  by  which  he  a\';is 
in-])ii'e(l.  lilting  cold,  fearful  storm-,  gloomy  darknc--.  the 
danger-  of  -tarvation  and  -ickne-s.  all  combir:e(l  to  block  hi- 
icc  ])atliA\'a\'.  an<l  yet  he  ])ersevered  a!id  ac''omp!i-!ied  liis 
lier(.)ic  ])ur|)o<e,  thereby  wirming  a  ])lace  in  hi-lory  of  which 
his  coimtrymen  may  well,  and  will,  be  ])]-ou(l  to  the  end  of 
time."  ' 

ddi<'  r<'tm'n  wa-  e\'en  more  ariluou-  than  tic  ad\'ancc.  and 
a-  the>'  i)ur-ued  tlieii'  weary  trail.  thoULihl-  wandered  lo  home 
ami  creature  cidnforl-.  "W'iial  ihouuhl-  one  ha-  when  thus 
ploddinii'  alonii!"  writr-  I.ockAS'ooij  in  hi-  journal.  "Home 
and  i-\-cr\-i  hiiig  there,  and  t!ie  -cen<'-  .-uc  1   incid'^ni-  oi   earb.' 


Kipriii'i'M   riMi!;  /■■'I '■■'..    ■    \  ..,-■/'  li;.-  (    iKii'l''-   L;i::  mail.      ('(i|i\i- 
1  '^^■"i.  •'-.    1 ).  A'o'.  ■;  III  .-I ml  (  ■i);iii)a!i\'. 


LAKK   ITAZEN  377 

youth  !  Homo  asain,  when  this  Arctic  oxperi(>iic(3  shall  be 
a  thins  of  the  past  !  But  it  must  he  confessed,  and  lament- 
able it  is,  as  well  as  true,  that  the  reminiscences  to  which 
my  tliou<4'hts  oftenest  recur  on  these  occasions  are  connected 
with  eating,  —  the  favourite  dishes  I  have  enjoyed,  — while 
in  dreams  of  the  future,  my  thoughts  turn  from  other  contem- 
plations to  the  discussion  of  beefsteak,  and,  equally  absurd, 
to  whether  the  stew  and  tea  at  our  next  supper  will  be  hot  or 
cold." 

Joining  the  supporting  party  at  Cape  Sumner,  the  entire 
part\-,  sulferiug  from  exhaustion  and  snow-blindness,  reached 
Fort  Conger,  June  1,  1882.  During  the  absence  of  Lockwood, 
Lieutenant  Greely  had  left  Fort  Conger,  April  20,  1882, 
arul  penetrated  Grinnell  Land,  reaching  Lake  Hazen,  a  glacial 
lakc^,  some  five  hundred  square  miles  in  area.  Lake  Hazen 
was  again  visited  by  Greely  in  June.  "Following  up  \'ery 
Riven-  to  its  source,  the  farthest  reached  was  17.5  miles  from 
the  hiome  station,  Ijetween  ]\Iount  (1  A.  Arthur  and  Mount 
C.  S.  Smith,  which  evidently  form  the  divide  of  Grinnell 
Land,  —  l)etw(Hni  Kennedy  Channel  to  the  east  and  the  Polar 
Ocean  to  th(^  west."  Ascending  Mount  C.  A.  Arthur,  the 
highest  ])eak  of  Grinnell  Land,  Greely  stood  4500  feet  above 
the  s(^a,  and  saw  to  the  north  of  Lake  Hazen  snow-clad  moun- 
tains, ;uid  distant  country  to  tlu^  soutliwest  was  also  covered 
with  (^t(n-nal  snows.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  subs(H}uently 
su])])lemented  Grcndy's  discoveries  of  the  interior  of  Grinnell 
Land  with  the  rc^sult  that  jointly  0000  square  miles  of  terri- 
tory was  examiiKHl,  an  accomplishment  which  "determines 
tlu-  remarkable  pliysical  conditions  of  Xorth  Grinnell  Land. 
It  l)iT)Ught  to  light  fertili"  valleys,  su])])orting  \\v\\\>  of  musk- 
ox(Mi.  an  (^xt(nisi\'(^  icc^-ca]),  rivers  of  consideral)le  siz{\  and  a 
glacial  lak(^  (HaziMi)  of  extensi^'e  area.   .   .   ." 

Traces  of  L'skinu)s  ha\'ingwinl(M"ed  at  Lake  Haz(Mi,  as  shown 
by  permanent  huts,  were  a  source  of  surprise  to  the  explorers. 


:)T8  THE   GREAT   WHITE  NORTH 

"Successful  to  sucli  n  degree  as  ^y^n•v  these  seograjihical 
explorations/"  writes  (Ireely,  "they  were  strictly  subordi- 
nated ti)  the  ot)ligatory  observations  in  the  interests  of  the 
physical  sciences.  Systematic  and  unreniittini>;  niaii'iietic  ob- 
ser\-ations  sei'ved  to  roinid  out  knowled.tie  i)y  enablinii'  scien- 
tists to  calculate  the  secular  variation  of  the  inasiuetic  decli- 
nation of  th(>  Smith  Sound  re<iion.  Apart  from  the  <ieneral 
value  of  the  meteoi'olo,iiical  seiies.  it  has  most  fully  deter- 
mined the  climatic  conditicjus  of  (Irimiell  Land. 

'"The  tidal  obser\'ati(jns  were  so  com])lete  at  the  station 
and  so  am})l\'  su])plemente(l  by  outl\'in,u'  stations,  that  scien- 
tists have  determined  not  oidy  the  co-tidal  lines  of  the  Polar 
Ocean  with  satird'actorx'  results,  but  al>o  letuned  from  them 
that  the  (Hunud  ine(iuahty  of  the  tidal  wa\'e  conforms  at 
Fort  Conger  to  the  sidereal  day.  Tlie  ])en(lulum  obx'rxa- 
tious  }ia\'e  lun-n  classed  as  'far  the  best  that  hav(>  e\-er  bt>en 
made  within  the  Arctic  Circle"  and  the  'detei'mination  of 
gra\'it\'  (therefrom)  ha-^  been  .-ina:ulai'l\'  -uccessfuL'  l>otani- 
cal.  zorilogical,  ruid  antlu'o])ol()uical  I'e-carches  were  ])ur>ued 
Avith  >imilar  unremitting  attiMition,  m)  that  llie  scientific  work 
of  the  e.\p(Mhtion  may  be  considered  :is  s;it  isfact  oi'y  and  com- 
plet(\-     especiah.y  In  \-iew  of  t  bi(>  liigli  lat  ii  ude  of  the  station."' 

Sununei'  had  pa<>e(l,  and  though  the  men  had  scanne(l  the 
liorizoM  h)n!i;  and  eai'ue-t  ly  for  promi-^ed  rehef,  no  >hip  react led 
Them.  A  second  wiiitei'  passed  in  the  slow  monotonx'  ciiai'ac- 
teri^t  ic  of  t  he  .\rct  ic  night . 

I'l  order  to  facihitate  his  I'etreat  in  ca-e  th(^  rehief  \-es<el  of 
iS'si)  failed  Id  reaeji  him.  ( 'o'eely  laiil  down  -toi'e<  at  Ca])e 
i>aii'd  befuri'  the<im  return.ed  in  }'"ebi-ua!'\\  l^s:-),  Cuder  his 
ordi'i-.  hieuteiiaiit  (  i  r^ 'elx'  wa--  t  o  aba  Mtln:  i  I'dH  ( 'nnge!-  not 
laler  1  h.an  Sep]  eiulx'i'  I  and  i'etreat  -oiuhward  by  boat, 
until  Im'  met  the  rt'lie!'  \-es-el,  or  hittlelon  1-land  wa<  i-eache(|, 
vliei-i'  he  -would  find  a  fre>h  ipai'ty  A\ith  fresli  stoi'es  aAMiiting 
him. 


FAILURE   OF  RELIEF  SHIP   ''  NEPTUyE''  379 

As  t'urly  as  DeceiJi'bcr  2,  1881,  active  steps  were  taken  at  the 
War  ]J)(.'parliiient  in  Washington  for  the  rehef  vessel  of  1882, 
estimates  for  an  appropriation  of  So3,00()  asked  for,  and  nego- 
tiations for  su|)])lies  opened  with  firms  at  St.  Jolni's  and  with 
tlie  Danisii  governnnent  for  stores  to  be  delivered  in  Green- 
lantL  In  May,  1882,  a  board  of  officers  atta('hed  to  the 
Signal  Service  met  at  W'asliington  to  consider  plans  for  the 
relief  exi)edition.  And  the  ultimate  result  was  tlie  sailing 
from  St.  J(jhn's,  Xewfoundland,  on  July  8,  1882,  of  the  sealing 
vessel  Xeptune,  with  Air.  \Mlham  Al.  Jieebe,  Jr.,  a  private  in 
general  ser\'ice,  and  formerh'  Secretary  to  tlie  Chief  Signal 
Officer,  in  charge  of  the  relief  work. 

The  XcptiDie  touched  at  Godhaven  on  the  17th  and  took 
on  supplies;  then  directing  her  course  slowly  and  with  diffi- 
culty acrijss  Melville  Bay,  she  came  in  sigiit  of  Cape  York 
on  the  2r)th;  Littleton  Island  was  reached  on  the  29th,  where 
she  was  blocked  l)y  ice  and  (jl)liged  to  return  and  aiichoi'  in 
Pandora  Harbor.  The  next  forty  days  the  Xeptune  made 
fruitless  eff(jrts  to  enter  Kane  Sea.  In  the  course  of  her  many 
failures  t(j  penetrate  to  the  north,  she  found  anchorage  between 
Ca])e  Sabine,  Brevoort  Island,  wlierc  Bee1)e  examined  the 
Engli-li  cache  made  by  the  Diseovcrij  in  1875.  Tliis  cache, 
of  so  much  importance  to  Greely's  men  later,  was  found 
to  coutain  one  barrel  of  canned  licf,  two  tins  (forty  !:)0un(is 
eacii)  of  bac(,)n,  one  barrel  Cone  hundred  and  ten  ])ounds)  dog- 
])i>cuil,  two  Ivarrels  iono  hundred  and  twenty  rations  each) 
bi<cuit,  nil  in  good  condition  ;  two  hundred  and  f(jrty  rations, 
c(.)nsi-ting  of  chocolate  and  sugar,  tea  and  sugar,  ]iotatoes, 
wicks,  inbacco,  salt,  stearin,  onion  poAvder,  and  matclu^s,  in 
fairly  good  condition.  Beelx^  failed  to  leave  an}'  proA'isions 
of  liis  own. 

On  Augu-t  2.1,  -AiWv  a  fourth  trial  Xo  penetrate  the  pack,  the 
?\'t  pfitne  I'eturned  to  Littl'^ton  Island  with  tlie  intentit)n  (jf 
making  dei^ots.     Natives  Ijeing  in  the  vicinity,  who  in  all 


880  THE   GREAT    WHITE  yORTll 

prohabilit}'  would  steal  any  deposits  left,  l^eehe  concluded 
to  ])ost])oiie  uuikiug  tlie  cache  and  i)i'(jceeded  to  Cai)e  ."^ahine. 
Here  he  dej)osited,  accordhig  U)  liis  orders,  two  hundred  and 
fifty  rati(jus,  one-ei<i,hth  of  a  cord  of  hirch  wood,  and  a  wliale- 
botd.  Tlie  Xcpluuc  then  made  a  fifth  attempt  to  penetrate 
the  pack,  and  a<iain  on  Se})teml)er  2,  her  sixth  and  final  effort. 
L'indiii,;j;  it  inipossil)le  to  advance,  she  returned  to  Littleton 
Ishuid,  and  a  second  depot  of  two  hundred  and  hfty  rations 
was  caclied.  Slie  now  start(>d  on  her  homeward  voyage, 
^^eplemher  o,  1SS2.  I^eehe,  havin.a,'  cari'ied  out  to  the  letter 
liis  instructions  fi'om  tlie  si,<i;nal  office,  for  tlie  relief  of  the 
Lad}-  Lranlslin  I^.ay  expedition,  and  left  two  (lei)ots  of  tw(j 
hundred  and  fift\'  rations,  or  ten  da\'s'  sup])ly,  rc^turned  to 
St.  Jolm'-,  c;u'ryin;i:  safely  from  the  barren  shores  of  the  Arctic- 
two  thousand  rations,  or  a  full  su])])Iy  f(jr  thre(>  months. 

The  return  of  tlu.'  relic^f  party  of  fSS2  made  the  expedition 
that  was  to  fdlow  the  ru-xt  sunmier  one  of  <i;rave  im])ortance. 
In  the  course  of  (official  communication  on  the  subject  between 
th('(  'hicf  Sisi'iial  <  )flicer  and  the  Secretary  of  \\'ar,  ( len.eral  Ilazen 
slated  thai  "it  is  nujsl  desii'able  that  the  officer  and  the 
enlisted  men  v^lio  ai'e  to  ji;o  next  yeai',  b-e  det.ailcd  as  ear!}'  a^ 
])rccticablc,  in  oi'dcr  that  th(>y  ma\'  lie  trained  an.d  have  ex- 
perience' in  rowin,u'  and  mana.u'inu'  boats,  and  in  1  he  use  of  boat 
coinpa--e-.  ...  Il  i<  desii'able  lliat  men  be  selected  wl;ose 
sei'\ice  has  i  leen  in  t  he  n  off  Invest ,  and  it  is  also  iiuporl  ant  that 
the  (  litire  jjai'ty,  before  ti'oin.u',  shuidd  be  familiar  with  boats 
and  their  manau'ement  inider  all  condition-. 

In  the  Secret  ar\-'s  re])ly.  the  sim'U'esi  ion  is  \-()lunteered,  "It 
seems  i!iat  ii  wouM  be  niucli  more  de-ir;ib!e  ti;  endeax'our  to 
procure  from  the  \a\'y  the  [)er>ons  wlio  ai'e  needed  i'or  this 
relief  party."     'bo  tlii-  ('.eneral   Ilazen  m.'nle  answer:     - 

"To  cliaiiue  1  he  t'ull  coiit  roi  of  t  his  duty  now  A\'ould  he  -wap- 
pinu'  lior-e-  while  cro-,-inu'  tlie  stream,  and  when  in  the  middle 
of  i  l,i'  -i  iv;iiii.      T(  MuaiKiu'e  it  wit  li  mi xed  con t  I'ol ,  oi'  eN'en  wl t  li 


OFFICIAL   FLANS    FOR    aUFELV'S    UFLLEF  IN   ISS:]        381 

mixed  arms  of  the  service  under  a  single  control,  would  be 
liazardous,  and  such  action  is  strongly  advised  against  by  the 
many  persons  of  both  Army  and  Xavy  I  have  discussed  the 
subject  with.  The  ready  knowledge  of  boats  and  instru- 
ments is  but  a  very  small  part  of  the  indispensable  requisites 
in  tills  case.  This  whole  work  has  required  a  great  deal  of 
attention  and  study  from  the  first,  and  I  have  not  a  doubt 
but  any  transfer  of  control  now  would  result  in  failure  to 
convex-  all  the  threads  of  this  half-finished  work,  and  that  it 
would  work  disastrously  in  many  ways.  In  view  of  these 
facts,  1  would  consider  the  transfer  now  of  any  part  of  this 
woi'k  to  any  other  control  as  very  hazardous  and  without  any 
a])i)arent  promise  of  advantage." 

First  Lieutenant  Ernest  A.  Garlington  of  the  7th  Cavalry, 
having  volunteered  his  services,  was  ordered,  February  (3, 
1SS3,  to  report  at  Washington.  Since  liis  graduation  from 
the  A lilitary  Academy  in  187G,  he  had  served  with  his  regiment 
at  F(.)i't  Buford,  Dakota  Territory.  Four  enlisted  men  who 
had  volunteered  were  also  ordered  from  Dakota. 

Trie  Proteus  was  chartered  and  made  ready  for  her  voyag(\ 
A  request  was  made  by  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  on  the  14th  of 
Alay  tliat  a  Xavy  vessel  should  be  detailed  for  service  in  con- 
iKH-tion  with  the  expedition,  "as  escort  to  bring  back  informa- 
tion, rendcn-  assistance,  and  take  such  other  ste])s  as  might  l^e 
ncH'cvsary  in  case  of  unforeseen  emergencies.''  The  Yantic, 
nndvY  ('ommandtn-  Frank  AVildc^s,  was  selected,  and  under- 
went such  prc]:)arati()n  as  the  limited  time  permitted. 

Carlisigtoii  was  instruct (\1  to  examine,  if  possible,  all  depots 
of  provisions  and  re]:)lace  any  damaged  articles  of  food,  and  if 
the  Pi'dU'us  could  not  g(4^  through,  the  ])arty  and  stores  should 
be  landed  at  Life-Boat  CovCjtlie  vessc^l  sent  back,  and  th(^  pjirty 
sliould  remain.  The  Ydjitic  was  to  accompany  the  I^rolci's 
a-  far  as  Littleton  Ishuid  and  render  such  a-sist ance  as  niiglit 
!)ecome  ncH'essary.     Lieutenant  J.  C.  Colwell  of  the  Xavy, 


oOli  THE   GREAT    WUITE   yOUTII 

ha\-inf^  voluntoered  his  services,  was  detailed  to  accompany 
Garlin,uton.  Tli(>  Proteus  and  the  Yantic  left  St.  J(jhii's  the 
29th  (jf  June,  1S<S.'],  and  were  soon  out  (jf  sijiht  of  each  othc]-. 

The  Proteus  encountered  ice  in  Melville  Bay.  Clarlin^ton 
examined  the  Xares  cache  of  ei^tihtcen  hundred  raticjns  on 
Southea>t  ('ary  Island,  GO  jjer  cent  of  the  rati(jns  ])rovin<i  to 
be  in  ,ii<iod  C(jndition.  There  is  no  record  that  the  40  per 
cent  were  re])laced  from  the  Protcu-s's  stores. 

Littlet(jn  Island  was  pa.-sed  without  a  cache  being  left 
there.  Tlie  ice  ]:)reventerl  an  advance,  and  (iarlington  there- 
ti])!)n  diccided  to  go  to  ("ape  Sabine  "t(_>  examine  cache  thei'e, 
leave  records,  and  await  fuitlier  developments."  ".Vt  half- 
pa>t  three  the  Prof  ens  came  to  anclujr  at  Payer  Hai'bor/' 
writes  Schky.  "Slie  remained  at  her  anchorage  from  3;oO 
to  8  P.M.  This  stay  of  four  hours  and  a  half  at  ('a])e  Sabine 
was  a  1urning-])oint  in  the  hi>tory  of  the  I'clicf  cxjx'dition.  It 
was  made  u|)  (jf  golden  moments.  It  i-  true  that  no  one  (Mjulfl 
joredict  that  by  tliat  time  next  day  X\iv  Prntcus  wouM  be  at  the 
bottom  of  tlie  Kane  Sea.  It  is  al-o  true  that  ( larlington's 
instructions  had  been  officially  construed  as  not  including  the 
formtition  (jf  de|jot<  on  tlie  wa_y  nortli.  and  that  tlic  im])oi'- 
tancc  of  reacliing  Lad}'  Frankliii  li'iy  had  been  impre-sed 
u]")on  hi-  mind  as  the  main  pur])o-c  of  lii-^  e!iter])ri-c.  .\t 
till'  same  time  it  was  kiiown  with  tolerable  cer{;i.inty  tiiat  two 
months  later  ^Ireely  v.'ordd  b(>  at  that  ])oint.  il'  he  carried  out 
hi-  iiitent  ioii- :  .and  the  c'lnnnandei'  of  the  rehef  expeijition, 
allliough  not  (■x])re-sly  dii'ected  to  land  anywhei-c.  liad  been 
in-tructed  tlial  if  hmdinu'-  sli(iul(l  he  made  at  point-  wliere 
cache>  of  ])i'o\'isions  were  located,  he  wa^.  if  j)o-<iblc.  to  ex- 
amine them,  and  r('j)l;ice  ;iny  damagi^d  .article-  of  food. 

"  Xow"  t  [lei'e  A\-crc  two  caehi'S  ;it  oi'  near  ( "ajte  .^al  )!ni'.  ( )ne 
(if  lli('ni,  left  by  I'jicjir  t!ic  yc;n-  bcffirc,  \\-;i<  ai'oiind  the  ])oint 
of  the  capi',  ']"!;(■  oilii-r,  f'fl  by  X;in'-  in  l^T.").  \\'a-  oti  Stalk- 
neclit   1-land,  a  long,  low  rock  in  tlie  iiarbour  it-elf,  due  \\cst 


''  PROTErs''    cur  SUED    IN   ICE  388 

from  BiH^voort  Island,  and  close  to  it.  The  position  of  the 
cache  was  well  known.  Jkn^he  had  visited  it  in  1882.  The 
Frotcus  was  now  at  Payer  Hai'bor,  prohahly  within  half  a  mile 
oJ'  Stalknecht  Island  ;  and  on  board  the  \'(^ss(d  were  the  four 
de])ots  of  provisions,  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  rations  each, 
that  had  Ijeen  arranged  at  Disco  to  be  in  readiness  for  landing 
at  some  time  and  at  any  time." 

(larlington  ordered  two  privates  to  land  and  take  a  set  of 
observations,  while  he  went  with  a  party  of  men  to  examine 
the  caches.  The  repair  of  a  cache  and  the  set  of  (observations 
are  all  The  work  reported  as  having  been  done  at  Cape  Sabine 
on  the  way  nortli. 

(  hii'lington  tluni  put  to  sea,  and  followed  the  open  leads 
of  water  to  the  nortlnvard.  After  an  advance  of  twenty 
miles,  the  ship  was  stojoped  by  the  pack  near  ('a])e  Albert. 
Tiie  following  da.v  slu-  was  crushed,  and  the  crew  and  relief 
])arty  took  to  the  floe,  tlirowing  overboard  such  stores  and 
])i'o\isions  as  camc^  to  hand.  Lieutenant  C'olwell  was  the  last 
man  to  leav(>  th(>  ship.  Clarlington  and  his  party  of  fifteen 
men,  tAvo  whale-boats,  and  ])rovisions  for  foi'ty  days  reached 
CajH'  Sabine  in  safety.  He  now  followed  the  "  W'ildes-Gar- 
liugtou  agreement,"  which  said  "Should  Proteus  b(>  lost, 
])ush  a  boat  Avith  ])art>'  south  to  )'(!/i(lc." 

( iariington's  record  left  by  him  on  Bi'evoort  Island  read  in 
})art  :  — 

■'De])ot  landed  .  .  .  oOO  rations  of  bread,  tea,  and  a  lot 
of  citnued  goods.  ('ach(>  of  200  rations  ;  left  l)y  expedition  of 
1SS2,  A'isit(Ml  by  me,  and  found  in  good  condition,  k'nglish 
d('iM)t  in  damaged  condition,  not  \-isited  by  me.  Cache  on 
Littleton  Island:  boat  at  Isabella.  L.  S.  S.  Ya/itic  on  her 
wa>'  to  Littleton  Island,  with  orders  not  to  (m\vv  ic(^  ...  T 
\\'\[[  endea\"our  to  communicate  witli  thes(^  vess(>ls  at  once. 
I'^'ei'ytb.ing  in  ))owiM'  of  n.ian  will  be  done  to  rescue  the 
(Cireely'sj  brave  men." 


■]X4  THE   <niEAT    WHITE   yoilTH 

■'Tr  transpired,"  wi'ites  Groely,  "that  there  was  no  l)oat 
at  I>al)e!la  ;  that  ( iarhhigton's  orders  to  re])lace  damaged 
eaches  were  imperative  and  disol)eyed  ;  that  he  had  no  knowl- 
(>dge  that  the  Littleton  Island  cache  was  safe ;  that  at 
Sal  line  he  to()k  eveiy  pound  of  food  he  could  reach,  though 
told  that  (Ireely  was  pr(jvisioned  only  to  August,  18^3; 
and  that  after  Colwell's  skill  had  hrouglit  (larlington  safe  t(; 
tlie  y untie,  lie  did  not  even  ask  AMlde  to  go  nortli  and  lay  dowii 
food  for  ( Ireely,  oth.erwise  doomed  to  >tarvati(jn." 

On  Septeniher  13,  1SS3,  C',arlington  wrote  from  St.  John's, 
Xewfoundland,  to  the  Chief  Signal  (JfTicer,  U.  S.  A.,  AVashin.g- 
ton  :  — 

''It  is  ]ny  painful  duty  to  report  total  failure  of  the  cxjX'di- 
tion.  The  Profeiis  was  cru-hed  in  pack  in  latitude  70^  .')2', 
longitude  74°  23',  and  sunk  on  the  afternoon  of  the  2-'kl  July. 
-My  party  and  crew  all  saved.  ^lade  my  way  across  Smith 
Sound  and  along  ea>tern  sliore  (jf  (^ape  York  ;  thence  across 
Melville  l:5ay  -to  ri)ernavik.  arriving  there  on  2Jth  Aug. 
The  Yaiiiic  reached  U])erriavik  2d  Sept.  and  left  same  day, 
bi'inging  entire  party  liere  to-day.     All  v.'('ll." 

To  telegrajjliic  inquiries  fr(jm  the  Signal  Office  asking 
wliat  >t!)re>  had  heen  left  for  Circely.  came  an.-wc'r  :  — 

'■\o  >tor('s  landedi  licfure  sinking  of  >\\\]).  Aljout  five 
hundred  rations  from  tho-e  sa\'ed,  cached  at  C'a])e  Sakiiie  : 
ako  !a!'ge  cache  of  clothing.  l)}'  the  lime  -uitaUe  ve--e!s 
;'o;;ld  t'C  procui'ed.  filled,  provisioned,  ele.,  ii  would  he  loi) 
hUi-  in  ihe  -ea-on  to  aeeouiplisji  aii\uhing  thi>  year."" 

We  leave  !o  the  imagination  the  alarm  arou>e(l  \)y  tlie 
-udden  realization  of  what  thi-  failure  mcaiU  to  our  feilo\v- 
count  r\-!neii  at  kort  Oonu'(>r.  J-'rom  July.  ls>2,  to  Augu-t, 
lss:j.  not  le-~  than  .")(), IKK)  rations  were  taken  in  the  -teaniers 
A  ( jit  II  III .  Ynnlic.  and  I'mli  //>■,  up  to  or  keyc/ud  Lit  t  lei  on  Inland, 
a!idofl!ia1  nmnlifi-  akiMit  1(K)()  were  left  in  that  vicinily.  1  he 
ri'inaiiidcr  lieing  I'etm'iieil  to  the  Lnited  State-  oi'  ~unk  witli 
the  I'mti  lis. 


(ii:M:nAi.   A.    W  .   (  ;i;i_i:i.y.    I'.S.A. 


r, ,.,-,,..,  ,,/■  r/;„,, /;„,./ 


GAULryfnox's  he  ire  at  080 

The  date  of  Giirlingtoii's  letter  read  '"September  13." 
With  what  horror  did  it  (hiwn  upon  the  puhhe  mind  that  tlie 
abandonment  of  the  AV(dl-supi)lied  station  at  Fort  Congc^r 
was  ordered  "not  later  than"  Se})teml)er  1.  Even  now 
(«r(>ely  and  his  men,  leaving  behind  them  a  seant  year's 
army  rations,  and  earrying  with  tlu^n  every  pound  of  food 
])()ssible,  were  making  their  hazardous  retreat  in  "heavily 
laden  l)oats  through  water-Avays  crowded  with  ice,  acted  on 
by  strong  currents  and  high  winds,  the  recurring  heavy  gales, 
keeping  the  ])ack  in  constant  motion,  to  and  fro  against  the 
])recipitous  and  rockljound  coast." 

"Time  and  again,"  writes  (ireely,  "'"only  the  most  des|)(n'ate 
elTorts  and  measures  secunnl  the  safety  of  the  specially 
strength(>n(>(l  launch,  while  the  whale-boat  escaped  destruction 
oidy  by  speedy  unloading  and  drawing-u])  on  floes.  Every 
cach(\  however  small,  was  taken  up,  ending  with  damaged, 
mouldy  in'ead,  etc.,  at  Cape  Hawks." 

Fort  Conger  had  Ijcen  abandoned  August  9,  1883  ;  on 
Se])temb(>r  13.  the  whale-boat  had  l)een  left  iu'liind  (afterward 
r(H'overed),  and  the  men  were  fighting  their  desperate  way 
across  the  pack  to  the  shore.  The  following  day  Greely 
made  this  entry  in  his  journal  :  — 

""The  absence  of  sufficient  light  to  cast  a  shadow  has  had 
\'(>ry  unfortunate  results,  as  s(>veral  of  the  men  in  the  past 
few  days  have  Ixhmi  sadly  l)ruised  or  strained.  ^^'llen  no 
shadows  form  an.d  the  light  is  feeble  and  bh^uled,  there  is  tiie 
same  uncertainty  about  ou(>"s  walk  as  if  the  dcH>]K>st  darkness 
]>re\-ailed.  Th(>  most  careful  observation  fails  to  advis(>  you 
as  to  wheth(>r  ihe  next  step  is  to  In^  on  a  U^vel,  up  an  incline,  or 
over  a  pr(H'ii)!ce.  These  conditions  ar(^  i)erhaps  the  n.iost 
ti'ving  to  Sergeant  Brainai'd,  who,  b(>ing  in  a(h'ance  selecting 
our  road,  linds  it  nec(^ssary  to  trav(>l  as  i-a])idl\'  as  jiossilde. 
A  few  bad  falls  (luite  demoralize^  a  man,  and  malvc  him  niorc^ 
tbian  i^N'cr  doubtful  of  his  senses.     Tra\'ellip.ii'  slowlv,  with  our 


;)8iJ  THE  aniJAT  white  xortii 

li(':i\  ily  hidcii  slo(li>;(^s,  wo  mr(dy  suffer  much  from  this  trouble. 
;is  oui'  slcj)s  are  slow  and  uucerlaiu  at  the  l)est,  hut  when  a 
jai'  does  come  on  u  man  |)uUiii<i,-  his  best,  it  gives  liis  system  a 
great  shock  and  strain." 

On  Sej)leml)er  17,  aU  articles  that  were  not  of  \'ital  im])or- 
tance  were  a!)andoned,  and  yet  the  men  wer(>  hauling  about 
six  thousand  i)()UU(ls.  At  the  end  of  a  weary  day  Sergeant 
Brainard  wrotc^  in  his  journal  :  — 

'"Turned  in  at  11  p.m.,  after  ten  hours  of  the  severest 
])liysical  strain.  As  the  sl(H'ping-bags  (of  thos(M)f  us  in  the 
tepee)  are  protected  from  the  ice  by  only  one  thickness  of 
canvas,  our  e(,)mfort  can  l>e  imagined." 

ddir(>e  da\'s  later  he  adds  :  — 

''We  are  now  cai'rying  bui'dcMis  which  would  crush  ordinary 
men,  but  tlu^  tcxtui'e  of  the  party  is  of  the  right  sort,  and 
adversity  will  hav(^  \'ery  litll(>  effect  on  our  spirits." 

On  S(>pt ember  2'.),  bSS;^,  (Jreely  made  a  landing  at  a 
])()int  midway  bet\v<'(Mi  Cape  Sabine^  and  Isalxdla,  aft(>r  fifty- 
one  dax's  of  the  most  arduous  tra\'(d. 

"The  ret  I'eat  from  ( 'onger  to  ( 'a])e  Sabine,"  writers  (Ireely, 
''in\-olved  o\-er  four  hundred  miles'  trav(d  b}'  boats,  and  fully 
a  huiidi'ed  with  sledge  and  boat  ;  the  greater  i)art  of  which 
was  made  under  cii'(aunstances  of  such  grcnit  i)eril  or  immi- 
nence of  danger  ;ts  to  test  to  the  utmost  \\\v  coui';ig(\  coolness, 
and  endui'ance  of  any  ])a.rty,  and  tlu^  ca])acity  of  any  com- 
mandci'.  As  to  m\'  oflicers  and  men,  it  is  but  scant  jUstic(>to 
sa\'  I  lint  they  \[ivi.'{\  resolutely  e^•ery  dange-r,  endui'cd  clieerfull\' 
e\'ci'v  liai'd-hij),  and  were  fully  ('(jual  to  excry  emergency 
(and  tliey  wei'e  m;ui>')  of  our  eventful  retreat." 

(  )ti  ( )ct((!)er  ."),  hieutenant  Lockwood  sa>'s  :  — 

"We  h;(\'e  now  three  chances  for  our  liv(\<  :  hirst,  finding 
Americ.'in  cache  suflicient  at  Sabine  or  at  Isabella  ;  second. 
of  eriis-iiig  the  ^li'aits  wlien  oui'  pre>ent  i'ations  ai'e  gone: 
thii'd,  of  shooting  suflicient  seal  and  walrus  near  by  here  to 


aUEELY  S   AllAyDOyMKNT   OF  FORT   C0\(;FI!      oS  i 

last  (lurins;  the  winter.  Our  situation  is  certainly  alarming  in 
the  (^xtrenie." 

These  men  were  shelterless,  with  but  a  small  food  su})])ly, 
Avith  impassabl(>  liarriers  of  ice  north  and  scjuth.  ''Some 
huntcnl  on  land,  others  on  ice  ;  some  put  up  stont^  huts, 
otluM's  s(^arched  for  cairns  and  records."  The  Arctic  night 
had  settled  upon  them  before  their  huts  were  barely  finished, 
these  huts  of  heavy  granite  stones,  dug  from  tlie  snow  and  ice, 
lifted  with  >woll(>n  and  bleeding  luuids,  ])ut  in  place  with 
back-breaking  effoi'ts,  by  enfeel)led,  w(>aiy  men,  and  into 
tliem  they  crawled  with  torn  clothing,  han.d  and  footgear  in 
holes,  covering  shivering,  aching  Ijodies. 

In  this  desperate  plight,  scouts  returned  with  news  of  the 
sinking  of  th(»  Proteus  and  with  the  notice  from  Lieutenant 
(larlington,  describing  tlu^  disaster,  his  ])lans  and  his  retreat, 
and  the  caches  of  ])rovisions  at  Cape  Sabin(\  Relying  on  the 
ex]:)ress(Ml  -promise  that  ■'(^•er\'thing  witliin  the  jiov.'cr  of  man 
will  \)v  done  to  rc>scue  the  1)raA'e  men  at  Fort  Conger  from 
their  perilous  ])osition,"'  Creely  at  onc(^  endeavoured  to  move 
his  ])arty  near  that  point.  '''Camp  Clay''  was  establislicd  on 
iUnlford  Pim  Island,  which  was  I'eached  October  15,  with  forty 
days'  rations  to  tide  ovei'  two  hundred  and  fifty  days  of  dark- 
ness and  misery  until  help  coTild  come.  Another  hut  was 
erecteil  by  \]\v  sanu>  arduous  int^thods  em])lo}'ed  in  building 
former  huts.  The  rock  vralls  were  about  two  feet  thick 
and  llu'ee  feet  high  :  outside  this  wall  was  an  embankment  of 
snow  at  fnvt  four  f(H^t  thick,  l)ut  as  tlu^  seas(^n  aih'anced  the 
winter  gales  buried  the  hut  entii'ely  in  snow. 

"The  whale-boat  just  caught  on  the  cud  walls,  and  tmder 
that  boat  was  th.c  only  ])lace  in  which  a  man  could  e^'en  get 
on  his  knees  and  hold  himself  erect.  Sittin.g  in  ou.r  bags, 
the  head--  of  the  tall  men  t  ouclietl  the  roof."  "  (  'om])ai'ed  to 
oiu'  i)re\  ious  (juarler,-."  writes  ( ireely,  ""  the  house  is  \'v-a!'m,  but 
\\'e  are  so  li!!ddle(|  and  cfoM'd(>(l  togeiliet'  tlia.i   tiie  conlinetnent 


o.sx  THE  (iiiKAT  WHITE  yoimr 

is  almosi  iii1()l('r;it)l(\  Tlio  nu^n,  thousli  wr(4ch('d  from  cold, 
hard  work,  and  liungcM',  yvX  retain  tlu>ir  spirits  wonderfully." 

It  now  behooved  the  party  to  <i;ather  in  the  stores  from 
all  the  caches,  and  this  was  done  under  the  most  trying  condi- 
tions. The  news  of  tlu^  loss  of  tlu^  Jcdiuictte  was  learned  by  a 
newspaper  found  among  the  stores  and  brought  in  with  other 
articles.  Records  and  instrumc^its  of  the  Lady  Franklin 
Bay  expcMlition  Avere  safeh^  cached  early  in  October  on  Stalk- 
ruH'ht  Island. 

Dui'ing  the  few  remaining  days  of  light,  the  hunter.  Long, 
with  1h(^  I'lskimo,  remained  out  of  tlie  floe;  in  th(>  intcnise  cold, 
ill  fed,  without  shelter,  for  the  ])urp()se  of  securing  seals  or 
oth.er  game  tliat  might  hv  seen.  A  seal  was  all  that  was  se- 
cu]'e(l  undei"  tlu^  most  trying  circumstances. 

When  certain  (jf  tlu^  st(jres  were  examined  to  asccMiain 
their  condition,  the  dog  biscuits  w(M'e  (evidently  bad,  but 
''\\'hen  this  br(nid,  thoroughly  rotten  and  covc^red  with  green 
mould,  was  thrown  on  the  grcjund,  the  half-famished  men 
sprang  to  it  as  wild  animals  would."  ( )ctober  20,  LSS3,  marked 
the  last  day  of  suidight  for  one  hundred  and  t(Mi  days.  The 
hunters  still  pui'sued  their  labours,  but  witliout  success.  IIow- 
e\'er,  on  the  last  day  of  the  month,  ''I^t'iidcM'  was  fortunate 
enough  to  kill  a  bhu^  fox  with  his  fisT  ;  it  was  caught  with  its 
head  in  a  meat-can." 

All  rations  liad  been  c(/ilected  (>xc(>pt  one  hundreil  and 
forty-four  i)ounds  of  b(>ef  cached  bsy  Xarc^s  in  187"),  jbi'ty 
miles  (li>1ant  at  ( "a])e  Isabella.  A  further  reduction  of  the 
([Uantity  of  Food  s(>rved  to  eacli  man  was  inaugui'ated  Xo- 
\-'"!n.b('r  1.  'rh(>  following  da\'  liice,  I'^rederick,  l^li>on,  and 
]>yini  started  in  the  Arctic  niglit  foi'  ^'[\]tv  l-abcjla  ;  on  the 
fifih  il:i\-  out  ihcy  I'eaclicd  tlieii'  d(>st  iiial  ion  aftci'  tlic  most' 
hazardou-  I  I'ax'c!  in  1  cnipi-ral  nres  I'anging  fi'om  -^20" 
to— 2.V''  with  only  .-ixteen  ounces  of  food  ])ei'  day  1o  each 
man.      Taf.ing   \\\)   their   cach(>  of  meat,    they  startinl  on  th(3 


GllEKLY  RKACUES    CAPE  SAliLXE  889 

return  journey.  On  reaching  their  first  camp  after  fourteen 
hours  of  hard  trav(4,  Ehson,  who  had  done  t  liis  (hiy's  work  on  a 
cup  of  t(ui  and  no  food,  was  found  to  hav(>  frozen  lioth  his  hands 
and  feet.  "Our  skH^ping-bag  was  no  niori^  nor  less  than  a 
sheet  of  ice,"  writes  Frederick  in  his  journal.  "1  ])laced  one 
of  Elison's  hands  between  my  thighs,  and  Kice  took  the  other, 
and  in  this  way  we  drew  the  fi'ost  from  his  })oor  frozen  limbs. 
This  poor  fcdlow  cried  all  night  from  pain.  This  was  one  of 
the  worst  nights  I  ever  spent  in  the  Arctic." 

Continuing  the  next  two  days  with  their  half-frozen  com- 
rade, they  reached  Eskimo  Point.  Here  they  cut  u])  an 
abandoned  ice-})oat  for  fuel,  and  (nideavoured  to  thaw  out 
Elison's  lim!)s  and  dry  his  clothing.  ''When  the  i)oor  fellow's 
face,  feet,  and  hands  connnenced  to  thaAv  from  the  artificial 
lieat."  says  Fredeiick,  "his  sufferings  were  such  that  it  was 
enough  to  bring  the  strongest  to  tears." 

After  labouring  nineteen  hours  for  the  welfare  of  their 
suffering  comrade.  Rice  and  Fretlerick  attempted  to  advanc(>. 
—  "\\'e  tri(>d  to  k(M>p  Elison  in  front  of  us,  but  to  no  avail. 
He  would  stagger  off  to  one  si(l(\  and  it  sec^ned  every  moment 
that  tlie  fi'ost  V\'as  striking  dcn^per  into  the  i:)oor  nian/'s  flesh. 
We  fastened  a  ro]ie  to  his  arm  and  the  sledge,  as  it  now  took 
three  men  to  haul  our  load,  but  every  few  j'ods  the  poor  fellow 
would  fall,  and  tlien  sometimes  he  was  dragged  stn'eral  feet. 
Xo  ])erson  can  imagine  how  that  ])oor  man  suff(>r(ul." 

T^nabl(»  to  haul  Elison  ariv  fartluM',  in  lhe  face  of  a  gah^ 
and  11u^])iercingt(Mn])erature  of  —20',  it  was  decided  tliat  Rice 
siu)uld  start  for  Ctun])  Clay  for  assistance.  With  only  a  l:it  (/f 
fi'o>:(ni  nuvit  for  food,  he  startcxl  alon(^  in  the  Arctic  darkness 
and  travelled  t\V(>nty-tive  miles  in  sixt(^en  hours,  reaching  the 
cam])  at  midnight.  Inunediafe  relief  was  start (m1,  SiM'geant 
Brainard  and  ( 'hristiansen  leading  tlu^  ad\"ance.  to  be  fol- 
1o\V(m1  two  hours  later  l)y  Lieutenant  Loclavood,  the  doctor, 
and  four  of  the  nu^n. 


■J'.'O  THE   GUEAT    WIUTE  yoUTIl 

The  ft^urful  nijiiit  spent  by  Frederick,  Lynn,  and  their 
frozen  (•<)iiij);ini<in  e;in  liardl\-  he  j)ictnred.  ''We  tried  to 
warin  liini,"  sa\'s  '''i-edcriek,  "ijut  as  we  lay  helj)less  and 
slii\-erin,Li,'  w\\\\  the  c(jld,  and  jxjor  l'dis(jn  <j;roaninii;  with  hun- 
<i;er  (lii.s  frozen  li})s  dirl  n(jt  ])ennit  hini  t(j  <i;naw  the;  frozen 
meat)  and  ])ain,  \'ou  can  inia<i,'ine  how  we  felt.  Lynn  was  a 
Ktron<i',  ahle-hodied  man.  Ijut  Ihe  mental  strain  cansecl  l)y 
J'dison's  surferin,<i;s  made  him  weak  and  lielpless.  Li  fact, 
I  was  ai'raid  that  his  mind  would  b(;  im])aired  at  (jne  time. 
We  were  l)ut  a  few  hours  in  the  hajj;  when  it  Ixicanu;  frcjzen  s(j 
liard  that  w(;  could  not  turn  o\-er,  and  we  had  to  lay  in  one 
])o-ition  ei«2.hleen  hovu's  ;  until,  to  oiH'  great  relief,  we  heard 
J>rainard"s  eheering  voice  at  our  side.  There  was  nothing 
m(jre  welecjjue  than  the  pre-ence  (jf  that  nolde  man,  who  had 
C(jme  in  ad\'cUiee  \\-iili  l)i-;uid\'  for  Idi^on  and    fo(jd  for  all.'' 

The  r(-r;cue  l)arty,  although  weak  and  half-star\-ed  tlieiu- 
selves,  I'f'iiched  J'di-on  with  all  de-pateh  to  hnd  him  in  a  \-ery 
critical  eondition;  his  haiuU  and  feet  W(a'e  frozen  solid;  his 
face  frozen  \()  such  an  extent  that  there;  was  little  semblance 
of  humanit\'. 

If  Xo\"emlier  was  ushere(l  i'l  with  such  mi-fortune,  the 
succeeding  month.<  record  a  hi>tory  of  uni)a!'alleled  mi-ei"}'  and 
Mii'fering.  The  huntei's  wei'c  ever  on  llie  alert,  and  th(.'  occu- 
sioiud  gauie  brouglit  in  was  the  oid\'  cheer  that  .-urroiuided 
lhe-e  faiui-hiug  outca-ts.  A  seal,  a  In^ar,  a  few  foxe>.  (lo\-ekies, 
aud  ])ta!'migan  were  all  that  the  desolate  laml  ga\"e  forth  to 
the  uiu'emillitig  \'igilance  of  the  huntei's,  and,  re(luced  to  the 
la-t  ext  I'emit  ie-;  of  famine,  ,-hrimps,  seaweed,  reiudeer-mcjs-, 
saxifi'age,  and  lichens  wi^re  diligentl}'  sought  for  ainl  de\-oured. 

(  )n  Tliank-gi\'ing  I)ay,-  what  irony  in  the  mere  name,  — 
t  lie-e  men  celehi'ated  hy  a  lit!  le  extra  allowance  (jI'  food    -  and 

(  ll'eely    Wl'f  it  e   iu    hi-  jolU'Ual   :  -- 

"To-da}'  We  ha\'e  be<.'n  nlinn.<t  happy,  and  had  ulniod  eiiough 
to  eat ." 


Tin:   BFJnXNING    OF  A    HAND    WIXTER  891 

On  Doccnibor  9,  there  is  rejoicing  I)ecause  Brainard  and 
Long  shot  two  hkio  foxes. 

"We  are  all  very  weak,"  writes  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  ten 
days  later,  "and  I  feel  an  apatliy  and  cloudiness  inijiossible 
to  shake  off.  It  is  a  great  difficulty  to  know  each  night  just 
how  much  brc^ad  to  save  for  hreaklast  on  the  morrow,  —  hun- 
ger to-night  fights  hunger  to-morrow  morning.  I  always  eat 
]ny  bread  rc^gretfully.  If  I  eat  it  b(>fore  tea,  I  regret  that  I  did 
not  keep  it  ;  and  if  I  wait  until  tea  comes,  and  then  eat  it,  I 
drink  my  tea  hastily  and  do  not  get  the  satisfaction  1  other- 
wise would.  What  a  miserable  lif(\,  when  a  few  crumbs  of 
bread  Aveigh  so  on  one's  mind  I  It  seems  to  be  so  with  all  the 
rest.  All  sorts  of  expedients  are  tried  to  cheat  one's  stomach, 
but  with  al)out  the  same  result." 

On  December  21,  Lieutenant  Greely  says  :  — 

"Sergeant  Brainard  is  twenty-seven  to-day.  I  gave  him 
half  a  gill  of  rum  extra  on  that  account,  regretting  my  inabil- 
ity to  do  more  for  him.  He  has  worked  exceedingly  hard  for 
us  this  winttM' ;  and,  while  all  have  done  their  best,  his  (Midur- 
ance,  unusual  eciuanimity  of  temper,  and  impartial  justice 
in  connection  with  the  food  have  [)een  of  invaluable  service 
to  me." 

"Mouldy  hard  bread  and  two  cans  of  soup  make  a  dinner 
for  twelve,"  says  I^rainard.  "At  I'ort  Conger  ten  cans  of 
souji  were  iKH'dcd  to  b(>gin  dinner.  But  even  the  dire  calam- 
il\'  which  now  confronts  us  is  insufficient  to  rc^press  th(>  gri^at 
iiow  of  good  natur(>  in  our  jiarty  g(>nrrally." 

"A  tcri'iblc  sci'uc^  occurrinl  in  our  wretched  hut  during  the 
morning,"  writers  Brainard,  March  24.  bSSd.  "While  pre])ai- 
ing  ltr(>a!xfas1  (toa)  the  cooks  luul  forgott(Mi  to  removi^  th(^ 
bundle^  of  I'ags  from  the  ventilators  in  tlu^  I'oof,  and  tlu^  fumes 
thi'own  off  by  the  alcoliol  k'.m])s,  being  confin(Hl  to  the  small 
breathing  s]>aee,  soon  producnl  as])!iyxia.  I^)i(>dtn'bick,  one 
of  the   cooks,   was  the  first   to   succumb   to   its  elTects,   and 


•V.)li  THK   CHEAT    WIIITK    XORTII 

Israel  iiiinu>(liatel\-  aftc^'wards  became  insensible.  At  the 
suggestion  of  (iarcliner,  all  the  rest  of  us  rushed  for  the  door, 
an.d  the  ])lugs  were  at  once  removed  from  the  roof  and  the 
lamps  extinguished.  By  prompt  attention,  Dr.  Pavy  suc- 
ceeded in  reviving  Israel  and  Biederbick.  Tlujse  wIhj  went 
outside  were  less  fortunate  than  those  who  faint(Ml  in  their 
l)ags.  As  soon  as  they  came  in  contact  with  tlie  pui'e  outside 
air,  all  strength  departed,  and  they  fell  down  on  the  snow  in  an 
unconscious  state.  In  cons(H|Uence  of  the  absence  of  all 
animation,  many  of  us  were  frost-bitten  —  Licnitimaut  Clreely 
and  myself  ([uite  severely.  The  liv(\-  of  several  of  the  men 
were  i)i'<jbably  saved  through  the  nobk-  efforts  of  ( hirdiner, 
who,  though  weak  and  .-ick,  did  all  in  his  power  to  get  us  in  the 
liut.  .  .  .  During  th(>  excitement  oi  the  hour  al)out  half  a 
|)ound  of  biacon  was  stolen  from  Lieutenant  Greely's  mess, 
and  as  soon  as  the  fact  becanKMvUoAvn.  great  indignation  was 
expressed  that  in  our  midst  li\-ed  a  man  with  nature  so  vile 
and  corrupt  —  so  utterly-  devoid  of  all  feelings  of  humanity  — ■ 
a-  to  steal  from  his  starving  com])ani(.)ns  when  they  were 
thought  to  be  dying.  A  deed  so  cont(>m])tible  and  heartl(^s^4 
could  not  l(-)ng  remain  concealed  from  lho>e  wIkj  had  been 
injured.  We  were  not  disapipointed  in  the  disco\-ery  tliat 
Ilenry  wa-^  the  tliief.  Fle  had  literally  bolted  the  liacon.  and 
hi<  -toniach  wa-  o\'erloaded  to  such  a  degree  that,  in  its  en- 
feebled state,  it  could  n(jt  retain  thi-  umisual  (iuantit\'  of 
fniid,  and  his  crinu^  was  thus  detected.  ,Jcn>  aftej-warik 
i'e))orted  lia\'ing  seen  him  c(»mmit  tlu>  tlieft,  and  illustratiMl 
by   -iu'n<  \i]<  mamiei'  of  doing  it."' 

"Poor  ■-uiVerini!;  1-ni-on!"  he  writes  a  few  day>  later. 
"Tiii-  morninii;  he  turne(l  to  the  doctor  and  said.  '  M>'  Toes 
art'-  IturninL!:  dT'cadfully.  and  the  soles  of  my  feet  are  itchino,'  in 
a  \'ery  uncomfortable  maimer:  c;in  you  not  do  something  to 
relif\-c  I'li-  irritation'.''  He  little  di'e;im<  that  lie  ha<  ntather 
t<M-  nor  feet  :   t  he\-  ha\'inu'  >lotiuiied  off  in  .bmuar\'.'' 


DEATH   FROM  STAR  VAT  FOX  398 

On  ^larcli  21,  (Irccly  nuikos  tlii.s  entry  :  — 

"A  storm  ])n'V(>nt.s  hunting.  ...  It  i.s  surprising  with 
what  cahnncss  we  view  dc^ath,  which,  strongly  as  we  may  hope, 
seems  now  inevitable." 

As  the  gaunt  and  ghostly  form  of  Death  laid  its  fatal 
touch  upon  the  weakest  one  by  one,  a  strong  man  stole  food 
fi'om  conn'ad(\s,  and  stok^  again,  and  justly  forfeited  his  right 
to  live.  Then  one  by  onc^  they  died,  the  Eskimo,  Christiansen, 
from  (whaustion,  and  Lynn.  "He  asked  for  water  just  before 
dying  :  and  we  had  none  to  give." 

Then  Rice  sacrificed  his  life  for  others,  dying  in  the  arms 
of  his  comrade,  Frederick,  near  Baird  Inlet,  where  he  had 
gone  in  search  of  a  hundred  pounds  of  English  beef  abandoned 
in  Xovember,  that  Elison  might  be  brought  to  camp  alive. 
Then  Lockwood  died  and  Jewell  failed  —  and  soon  joined  his 
sleei)ing  comrades,  and  yet  in  face  of  liorror  crowding  upon 
horror,  there  is  an  entry  :  — 

■"On  Easter  Sunday  we  heard  on  our  roof  a  snow-bird 
chirping  loudly  —  the  first  harbinger  of  spring." 

In  the  meantime,  the  chief  dependence  of  this  rapidly 
diminishing  party  was  derived  from  the  gathering  of  shrimps 
—  or  s(>a-lice;  the  small  Crustacea  were  from  onc^-eighth  to 
one-lialf  of  an  inch  in  length,  consisting  of  about  four-fifths 
shell  and  one-fifth  meat,  and  al)out  seven  hundred  of  them 
were  recjuired  tcj  weigh  an  ounce. 

■'Dr.  Pavy  says,"  writes  Brainard  in  his  journal,  May  20, 
L8S4,  "that  ova-  food  nuist  be  something  more  >ubstantial 
than  these  shrimps,  or  none  of  us  can  live  long.  I  caught 
tweh-e  ])ounds  of  these  animals  to-day,  and  one  ]xnmd  of 
marine  vegetation.  Returned  very  much  exhausted  from  this 
trip.     Cannot  last  nmch  longer." 

■'( 'ater]iillars  are  now  quite  numerotis  on  tlie  bare  spots  of 
Cemetery  Bridge."  he  writes  a  day  or  two  later.  "Yesterday 
Bender  saw  one  of  these  animals  crawling  over  a  rock  n(,'ar  the 


394  THE   CHEAT    WHITE  NORTH 

tent,  uiid  after  watchiii.ti'  it  intently  for  a  moment  ho  liastily 
transferi'ed  it  to  his  mouth,  remai'kin.n;  as  lie  did  so,  'This  is 
too  nuich  meat  to  lose.'  '' 

On  Alay  29  there  was  a  southeast  t^ale  and  di'ifting  snow. 
Brainard  and  Lonji;  returned  from  their  day's  huntinji;  with 
a  few  pounds  of  shrimps  and  a  dovekie.  "On  retui'uinii;  to 
the  tent,''  writes  l^rainard,  "Dr.  i\ivy  and  Lalor  I'efused  to 
admit  me  to  their  sl(>(>pin«2;-l)a,!j;,  in  which  I  occupied  a  ])lace. 
Physically  I  could  not  enh)rce  my  riii,hts  in  this  matter,  my 
condition  l)orderin,u;  on  extreme  exhaustion,  and  wishin,u;  to 
avoid  any  un])leasantness,  L  crawl(Ml  into  on(^  of  the  aban- 
doned l)a.p;s  lyin<i;  (jutside,  as  the  only  alternative.  Idiis  baj:^ 
was  frozen  and  tilled  with  snow.  ( 'an  my  ,surferin<!;s  heimau;- 
ine(l?     They  certainly  canncjt  he  (lescril)ed. 

"  Sufferin<!,'  with  I'luaunatism,  and  smarting  under  tlu^  sense 
of  wron<i;  done  me  1)\'  my  slee))in!i-l)ap;  companions,  mental 
agony  was  added  to  pliysical  tortur(\ 

"To-da\'  I  caught  six  ])ounds  of  shi-imps.  This  evening 
(June  (5)  <limier  c()nsiste(l  of  a  stew  com])ose(l  of  two  boot- 
soles,  a  handi'ul  of  reindeer  moss,  and  a  iCw  rock  lichens. 
The  small  (juantit\'  of  shrim])s  which  I  furnish  daily  arc^  sulfi- 
cient  only  for  the  morning  meal. 

"Wednesday,  June  11,  1SS4.  Long  returnetl  at  1  : 'AO  a.m. 
from  the  o])en  water,  bringing  with  him  two  tine  guille- 
mots which  he  had  killed.  One  of  these  was  given  to  the 
general  mess,  and  the  other  will  be  di\-i(led  among  thos(>  who 
ai'c  doiuL!;  the  heavy  work  for  their  weaker  companions. 
This  e\-ening  ;i  greiit  m.isfort  une  beh'll  me.  The  >i)i'ing  tides 
ha\'e  b!-(i!a'n  out  the  ice  ;it  the  shrim])ing  i>l;ice.  ;md  my  nets 
ha\"e  b(<en  carried  away  ;nid  lost  ;  my  bails,  poor  and  miser- 
;ib]e  as  they  were,  ai'e  gone  also.  It  is  aiixthinu  but  plea,>ant 
to  !-(-llect  that  to-moi'row  niorninii.'  we  will  lia\'e  no  breakfa-t 
except  a  (Mip  of  lea.  It  was  quite  late  wlien  I  retuineil  this 
e\'(-ning  from  shrimping,  and  e\-ei'\-b()d\'  had  retired.      1  did 


DEATH  FROM  STARVATION  31)5 

not  luive  the  heart  to  awaken  tiie  poor  lellows,  hut  I  let  th(Mii 
sleep  on  ([nietl}'  under  th(-  ch^usion  that  breakfast  would 
await  them  at  the  usual  hour  in  the  morning.  How  1  pity 
them  ! 

''1  mad(!  a  flag,  or  distress  signal,  as  it  might  l)e  more 
pro])(>rly  termed,  whieli  I  intend  placing  on  the  high,  rocky 
])oint  just  north  of  our  tent,  where  it  maj'  b(^  seen  by  any 
V(>ssel  passing  ('a])e  Sal)ine." 

Ten  days  later  the  whistk^  of  the  Thetis  blown  f)y  Caiitain 
Schley's  orders  to  recall  his  searching  ])arties  h^U  lightly  on 
th(^  ears  of  the  dying  Conunandcu-  of  th(^  Lady  Franklin  Bay 
ex])edition. 

"I  f(>ebly  asked  Brainard  and  Long  if  they  had  strength 
to  go  out,"  writes  (!reely,  ''and  they  answered,  as  always, 
that  they  would  do  tlunr  b(\st." 

From  the  cutter,  as  it  entered  the  cove,  Li(nitenant  C'olwell, 
straining  his  eyes,  recognized  the  familiar  landmarks  of  the 
yc^ai'   l)efoi'e. 

"Thcu'e,  on  the  top  of  a  little  ridge,  fifty  or  sixty  yards 
al)ove  the  ic(^-foot,  was  plainly  outlined  i\\v  figui'c  of  a  man. 
Instantly  the  coxswain  caught  u])  the  boat-hook  and  waved 
the  flag.  The  man  on  the  ridge  had  sec^n  them,  for  he  stoo])ed, 
picked  u])  a  signal  flag  from  the  rock,  and  wav(Ml  it  in  reply. 
TluMx  he  was  s(Hm  coming  slowly  and  cautiously  down  the 
st(>ep,  rock'y  sio])e.  Twicc^  w  fell  down  before  he  reaclunl  the 
foot.  As  he  approached,  still  walking  feel)ly  and  with  diffi- 
culty, C'()lwell  hail(Ml  him  from  the  bow  of  the  boat  :  — 

"'Who  ah  are  there  left?' 

"'Scv(Mi  left.'" 

"As  the  cutter  struck  the  ice,"  continues  Schley,  "Colwell 
jumped  off  and  went  up  to  liim.  He  was  a  ghastly  sight. 
I  lis  cheeks  were  hollow,  his  eyc^s  wild,  his  hair  and  Ix^ard 
long  and  matted.  His  army  ])l()use,  co\'(M'ing  several  thick- 
nesses  of   shirts    and   jackets,    was   ragged   and    dirty.     He 


■■V.^6 


TJ1J-:   (.HEAT    W  II  LIE   y  OUT  1 1 


Wore  a  little  fur  rap  and  rouo;h  moccasins  of  untanncnl  leather 
tieil  artnunl  the  leu'.  A--  he  s]:)oke,  his  utterance  was  thick 
and  uiunihlinu'.  and  in  his  a^uitatiou  his  jaws  \V(jrke(l  in  C(jn- 
\-uhi\-e  twitches.  As  the  two  met,  the  man,  with  a  sudden 
im])ul-e.  took  off  his  lihjve  an<l  -liook  ('(jlwell's  hand, 

•••Wheiv  are  they?"     aske.l  r,,hve!l,  hriefly. 

'■"In  the  tent,'  -aid  tlie  man.  ])ointing  over  his  shoulder, 
'o\"ei'  the  hill     -the  tent   is  down.' 

•••L-  Mr,  (Ireely  alive?' 

"  ■  \'es.  ( Ireely's  alive," 

"  '  Any  other  ofhcers  ?  ' 

"  ■  Xo,'     Then  he  re])eated,  absently.    'The   t(.'nt    is   down.' 

'■  '  Who  are  \'ou  ?  ' 

'••Lono-.' 

"Pjefore  thi-  collocjuy  was  over.  L(nve  and  Xorman  had 
.-tarted  u])  tlie  liill.  Hastily  fillimi,-  hi<  jxxdvct-  with  bread, 
and  takinu'  the  two  cans  of  ]")ennnican.  ( '(dw('ll  told  the  cox- 
swain to  take  Lonu'  into  the  cuttei',  and  startcil  aftei-  tlu' 
other-  with  A-h,  Ileachinu'  tlie  i-vr^r  of  the  I'idu'e  and  lookinu; 
soiitliWai'd,  they  saw  <])read  out  before  them  a  de-ojate  e\- 
l)an-e  of  ivjcky  u'l'ijund,  sloping  u'raduallx'  f ri  im  a  ridue  on  the 
ea-t  to  the  iec-i/iA'ei'ed  .-hore,  whii'li  at  the  we-1  made  in  and 
foi'ined  a  cox'e,  l>ack  of  the  le\"el  -])ace  wa<  a  ranu'c  of  liil!- 
I'i-iu'j.'  uj)  eiiiht  hun<h'c(l  fi^et,  wi'h  a  jirecipitou-  face,  broken 
in  two  1)\'  a  uoi-u'e.  throuLih  which  the  wiml  w;i-  b.lowinu'  fu!'i- 
ou-l\',  On  a  little  elex'ation  ilirertly  in  iVoii!  w.a-  tlie  tent. 
Ifurryiim'  on  aei-o-<  tlc'  int  er\-cninii'  hollow,  ( 'i  •jwi-';!  i-ame  ui) 
with  Lowe  and  Xorman,  ju>t  a-  1  hey  were  <i,'i'eel  ini:-  a  -oldierly- 
l(iol-.;i!i'i,  ncm,  w!io  had  conie  out  fi'din  the  ti-nt. 

A-  C '( )i  Well  a]  )])roached,  Xorman  was  -a\'inu'  to  tlie  man.  — 

"  '  Thei'e  i-  the   hieutenalit.' 

'•  And  he  ad-led  to  (  olw<'ll.  — 

''  'Thi-  i-  Si'i-n-eant   P)r:iin;ird.' 

'■  Ih'ainard  immediately  drew  himself  u])  to  the  ■i^)-ition  of 


SCIILKY'S  BlilLLIAyr  RESCUE  ■  897 

llu'  soldier,'  and  was  about  to  salute,  when  Colwell  took  his 
liand. 

"  At  this  moment  there  was  a  confused  murmur  within  the 
tent,  and  a  v^oice  said,  — 

'"Who's  there?' 

"  Xorman  answered,  'It's  Norman  —  Xorman  who  was  in 
the  Proteus.' 

"This  was  followed  })y  cries  of  'Oh,  it's  Norman!'  and  a 
sound  like  a  feel)le  cheer. 

"  ^kleanwhile  one  of  the  relief  party,  who  in  his  agitation 
and  (wcitc^ment  was  crying  like  a  child,  was  down  on  liis 
hands  and  kneels  trying  to  roll  away  the  stones  that  held  down 
tlie  flap])ing  tent  cloth.  .  .  .  There  was  no  entrance,  except 
under  the  flap  opc^ning,  which  was  held  down  by  stones. 
( 'olwell  called  for  a  knife,  cut  a  slit  in  the  tent  cover,  and 
looked  in." 

'"It  was  a  sight  of  horror,"  continues  Schley.  "On  one 
side,  close  to  the  opening,  with  his  head  toward  the  outside, 
hi}'  what  was  ai)]')arently  a  dead  man.  Ilis  jaw  had  drop]:)ed, 
his  eyes  weif  op(ni,  l)ut  fixed  and  glassy,  his  limbs  were  motion- 
less. On  the  opposite  side  was  a  poor  fellow,  alive,  to  be  sure, 
l)ut  without  hands  or  feet,  and  with  a  spoon  tied  to  the  stump 
of  his  right  arm.  Two  others,  seated  on  the  ground,  in  the 
mirddl(\.  had  just  got  down  a  rubber  l^ottle  that  hung  on  the 
tent  pole,  and  were  pouring  from  it  in  a  tin  can.  Directly 
opposite,  on  his  hands  and  knees,  was  a  dark  man  with  a  long 
matted  beard,  in  a  dirty  and  tattered  dressing-gown,  with  a 
little  red  skull  ca])  on  liis  head,  and  brilliant,  staring  eyes. 
As  Oolwell  a])]i(Mir(Ml,  he  raised  himself  a  little,  and  put  on  a 
j)aii-  of  eye-glasses. 

"'  Who  ar(>  you?  '  asked  Colwelh 

'■  TIh^  man  m;ide  no  ;mswer,  staring  at  him  vacantly. 

"  '  ^^'ho  are  you  '.'  "  again. 

'■  One  of  the  men  spoke  up,  — ■ 


808 


Till-:  (rREAT  wnrrr:  yoirrn 


'■"Thiit's  tlic  Major  --  Major  Circoly." 

"  ( 'olwcll  ci'awhMl  ill  and  t(^ok  him  l)y  tlio  hand,  sayinp;  to 
him,  — 

"  '  ( Irccly.  i>  tliis  you?' 

■'■  Vcs,"  >aiil  (d'ccly,  in  a  faint,  broken  voice,  licsitatiny;  and 
shufiling  with  his  words;  "ye-  —  >('V('n  of  us  left  —  here  we 
are  —  dyinu,-  -—  iilvc  men.  Did  what  I  came  t(j  do  —  beat  the 
bc<t  recoi'd.' 

"The  >cene,  as  Colwell  loo]<:cd  arounth  was  one  of  misery  and 
sf[Ualor.  The  r(j(-]vy  fl(jor  was  co\-ered  with  cast-off  clothes, 
and  amonti;  them  were  liuddleil  tou'f'ther  the  sleej)in,u'-ba,a:-s 
in  whicli  t!ie  ])art\'  !iad  .-pent  iiio-t  of  tlicir  time  (hu'in.u'  the 
ht-t  few  niontlis.  There  was  no  food  left  in  the  tent,  but  t\vo 
(jr  thret'  can-  of  a  thin,  i'c])iil-iv('-lookini!.'  jelly,  ma.dr  by  IxHlinji' 
stri])s  cut  from  tlie  seal-kin  clothing.  The  Ixjttle  on  the  ti'nt- 
pole  ,-till  held  a  few  t ca-noonful-  of  l)i"andy.  but  it  wa.-  their 
la.-t,  and  they  were  .-hariim'  it  a-  C'wlwf'll  cutei-ed.  It  was  cx-i- 
dent   that   nio-t  of  them  had  not   lonu'  to  li\-e. 

'■  rolwell  immediately  -cut  ('hiff  l^nu'inec;'  Towe  back  to 
t!u'  cutter  to  ])ut  off  to  ihi'  llinr  with  Lonij.-  Xo  j-eijoi'T  and  to 
brinu'  the  >ur,u'eon  with  st  innilant -.  Avhilc  he  \in\  the  (Ixina; 
m'-'ii  with  bit-  of  thi-  food  he  had  with  \\\\\\.  A-  tln-ir  Innm-cr 
ret  uiMK'tl.  thr^y  ci'icd  ])iTei)ii-!y  ii)v  more  :  fi-irinu'  tno  much  at 
one  lime  would  injure  tlii'in.  ('ol\V"ll  wi-i'!y  di--uad''d  them, 
but  ■  wiii'U  <',re(-!y  found  tha.t  he  w.a-  rci'u-i-d,  he  took  a  can 
of  the  boiled  -('al-kin,  Ax-hidi  he  had  carefully  hu-lianded,  and 
which  he  -aid  he  had  :i  riu'ht  t  o  e;it .  a-  it  \\'a-  hi-  own.' 

■'The  weaker  one-  wei'e  like  children.  i)etu!ant.  ram'slini:'. 
a.nd  fitful   in   tla-ii'  talk,  ab.-etit.  and  -ometime<  a  little  inco- 


'I'iie    />-(//■    hax'iim'    b\'    tiii-    time    ari'i\'i'd.    ."^ei-^-eant     Lon.Li; 


Wa-    lifted    from    t  he   cut  lep   ;,! 
1;.  J-  :     :ill    wei'e  d< 
Wefi'    I  111    -hi  ire    iii 


I,    aiKl    t!ie!'e   toio    hi-   pUUui 

■\eeOl     (   OV!   iv    ;i;id    fi'.'e    otjier-.    :i\u\     fhcy 
):vdi-;re--         -ore  d,i-;  re,-.-  ■' ;    il    l.ailbeeil 


sciiLEV's  r.niLLiAyr  hescc'e  891) 

"  ii  luinl  wiut(M',''  iiiid  "the  wonder  was  how  in  God's  nanio 
they  had  |)u11(h1  throu,a,'h.'' 

"  Xo  words,"  says  Schley,  ''can  d(\s('ri])c  the  pathos  of 
tills  man's  broivcni  and  eni'eel)ied  utt(M'anc(>,  as  iic  said  over 
and  over,  'a  hard  wintiM- -  -  a  iiai'd  winter";  and  tlie  offi- 
cers wlio  were  gatliennl  al)ont  liim  in  the  \\'ard  room  felt  an 
emotion  which  most  of  th(>ni  were  at  little  pains  to  con- 
ceal." 

Soon  after  the  Thetis  came  in  sight,  and  her  officers, 
inchidinj.!;  brave  AlelvilU^,  whose  last  sad  offices  for  De  Long 
had  been  l)ut  lately  finislied,  went  ashore  and  aided  those  from 
the  Bear  in  the  can^  and  succour  of  tlu^  forlorn  party. 

As  soon  as  i)osslble  the  men  wcmv  care^fuU}'  moved  on 
stretchers  and  carried  in  boats  to  the  shi])s,  but  not  before  a 
hurricane  had  l)rok(ni  upon  them,  which  made  the  labour 
hazardous  and  difficult. 

Meanwhile,  Liinitenant  Emory  of  the  Bear  was  making  a 
careful  c(jllection  of  all  articles  belonging  to  the  camp.  Xear 
the  sleeping-])ags  wove  found  little  ])ackages  of  cherished 
valuables,  carefully  rolled  up,  and  addrt^ssed  to  fri(Mids  and 
relativ(\s  at  honu^  ;  the  survivoi's,  too,  had  already  donc^  up 
and  addr(>ss(>d  their  own,  an.d,  strange  as  it  may  sc^em,  a  pockc^t- 
book  was  found  containing  a  large  roll  of  bills  carried  by  the 
owner  for  some  unaccountabk^  reason  to  the  barren  shoi'es  of 
Lady  Franklin  Bay.  Jt  was  not  difficult  to  move  the  bodies  of 
th(^  di'ad  ;  then^  was  only  a  thin  covering  of  sand  above  the 
mounds  that  formed  the  graves. 

Looking  out  from  the  side  of  tlu^  hut  to  the  ice-foot, 
(^olwc^ll's  attention  was  fixed  l>y  a  dark  ol)j(H't  on  i\\v  snow. 
r\)llowing  a  ])ath  which  led  to  it  from  where  he  stood,  he  found 
the  inutilat(Hl  remains  of  a  man's  body. 

■'  It  was  afterward  identified  fi'om  a  l)ullet  hole,"  wi'ites 
Schh-y,  "as  that  of  Private  Henry,  who  had  been  excH'uted 
on  the  sixtli  of  .Iun(\" 


400  THE   CHEAT    WHITE   NORTH 

Wrapping  it  in  a  blanket,  Cohvell  carried  it  to  tlie  landing- 
])iaee,  wliere  a  ^^f^aman  took  the  l;undle  on  his  shoulder. 
Presently  the  l)oat  came  off,  and  all  \vho  had  remained  on 
sh(.)re  were  taken  on  hoard  the  Bear.  The  ships  retm'ned  to 
Payer  Harbor. 

ddi(>  next  da}',  June  23,  Lieutenant  Emory,  accompanied 
by  Sebree  and  Melville,  and  a  number  of  men  made  a  second 
search  at  ("amp  Clay,  which  lasted  several  hoiu's  ;  everytliing 
was  gathered  up  and  brought  away. 

Th(^  officers  of  the  Thdi>:  meanwhile  had  secured  from 
Stalkneciit  b-land  Grcely's  tin  boxes  containing  his  scientific 
records  and  standard  pendulum. 

The  reli(-f  sriuadron  in  1884  under  Captain  \V.  S.  Scl)ley 
and  Conunander  ^^^  H.  Emory,  and  fitted  out  tmder  the 
])crsonal  orders  of  the  Hon.  ^^^  E.  Chandler,  Secretary  of  the 
Xav\',  had  Inilliantly  executed  its  c(.)mmission  and  had  out- 
ri\'alled  the  early  Scot('li  whalers,  to  wlujni  a  boimty  had  been 
offered  by  ("ongress  for  the  speedy  rescue  of  Creely,  in  ])u<l!- 
ing  bcjldl}' through  the  '"middle  ice,"  '"  Xo  relief  or  expedi- 
tionai-y  \-essels  e^-er  ventur(^d  at  so  early  a  date  into  the 
danger-^  of  Ardville  Ba}',"  writes  Creely. 

"ddiat  th(-  United  States  Xa\-y  won  in  the  race  for  Sabine 
is  an  illustration  of  tlie  wonderful  ada])iai)ility  and  aliundant 
]-f-i)urccs  f)f  the  re]iresentative  American  seaman,  which  so 
^\'(■I1  fits  liim  for  coping  successfully  with  ru-w  and  untried 
d;ii!:ici>  and  makes  him  a  worthy  rival  of  our  kin  across  th(> 

In  trium])]i  they  liorc  the  renniant  of  tlie  Lady  Eranklin 
I-!;iy  ex])ediTi()ii  home  to  relatives  and  friends.  Only  six 
rcaciied  America  ali\'e  fbrave,  pitiful  T-]]i-()n  had  died  at  Cod- 
h;;\'en.  .bily  S).  six  -oldi(-rs  out  of  a  com])any  of  twenty-five, 
broken  in  heaith.  yet  courageous  in  s])ii'it.  and  loyal  to  a  nation 
tliaJ  throu'ih  '"a  liai'd  winter  —  a  hard  winter — in  sore 
di-tri  —  — "  had  left    them  to  their  fate! 


1{i:ai(   .\|)\iii{\i.   S(  iii.!:t.    I  .>.\. 


CHAPTER  XX 

Xaiison. — -The  man.  —  First  Arctic  experience. — Plans  the  cross- 
ing of  Greenlantl.  —  Carries  out  his  great  undertaking.  — Voyage 
on  tlu>  Frani.  —  Drifting  with  the  current. — Life  aboard. — 
Xansen  and  Johannesen  start  for  the  Pole.  —  Difhcultii^s  of  ti'aveh 
The  "  l'\u-thest  X^orth."  — -The  retreat.  — A  winter  on  the  Franz 
Josef  Land. — Attenii)t  to  reach  Spitzbcrgen  by  kayak. — The 
nuH'ting  at  Cape  Flora  with  Frederick  Jackson.  —  Home  in  the 
]Vi)i(kcard. 

The  character  of  the  explorer  Nansen  is  best  summarized 
ill  the  brief  paragraph  (wplaining  his  plan  for  the  first  crossing 
of  (IrcHnilaiKl. 

"My  notion,''  he  says,  'Svas  that  if  a  party  of  good  'ski- 
lobm's'  were  eciuipped  in  a  ]M'actical  and  sensibh^  way,  they 
must  g(^t  across  Greenland  if  thoy  l)(\gan  from  the  right  side, 
this  lalKM-  ])oint  being  of  extreme  importance.  For  if  they 
were  to  start,  as  all  other  (>x]:)editions  have  (lon(\  from  the 
west  side,  they  were  ])racti('ally  certain  never  to  get  across. 
They  would  hav(^  the  same  journ(\v  back  again  in  order  to 
reach  home.  So  it  struck  u\v  that  the  only  sure  road  to  suc- 
(•('■->  was  to  forc(>  a  ])assage  through  the  flo(^-belt,  land  on  the 
desohite  and  ic(^-boun(l  ivist  coast,  and  tlunicc^  cross  over  to  tlu^ 
inhabited  w(\-^t  coast.  In  this  way  one  would  l)urn  all  one's 
ships  behind  one,  tluM'e  would  be  no  n<HMl  to  urge  one's  mem 
on.  as  tlu^  (^ast  coast  would  attract  no  one  back,  whilc^  in  front 
would  Yw  the  west  coast  with  all  th(^  allurenuMits  and  ameiiili(>s 
of  civilization.  There  was  no  choic(>  of  route,  'forward"  being 
the  only  word.  The  order  would  be  :  'Death  or  the  west  coast 
of  ( ireeiiland.' " 

■-'  1.  401 


402  THE   a  HEAT    WHTTE   XOllTIt 

l)('t\V('(Mi  these  lines  onv  ^(.h^^  the  fil)re  of  this  man,  who  (1(>- 
hherately  stakes  out  liis  course  and  inx'ites  a  rac(^  with 
Death  to  the  ^oal  of  \-i('tory:  who  carefully  curtails  to  th(> 
inininnun  the  ])ossihility  of  failure  ;  who  thou<i;htftilly  rc^- 
inoves  from  weaker  companions  all  tem]itations  that  mi,u,'ht 
j('0])ar(lize  his  chances  of  success,  and  who  carries  thi'ou.ii'h 
a  i)lan  scoifed  at  by  the  world  as  the  im])ra('tical)le  scheme; 
of  a  madman. 

There  is  an  indescribable  charm  about  this  bold  Xorwe<>,ian, 
"who  was  a  terribl(>  one  for  I'allin.u,-  into  bi'own  studit-s,"'  as 
a  child  :  of  wliom  his  masters  wrote.  "He  is  unstable,  and  in 
se\'eral  subjects  his  ])ro<i'r(\-^s  is  not  nearly  so  satisfactory  as 
mi,uiit  }uiv(>  been  (>x])ected"'  :  who  combines  a  ,<i;(nitl(\  child- 
like disposition  with  an  indomitable  will,  ne\-ei-  doul)tin,<2; 
foi'  an  instant  that  he  is  I'i^iiht  and  the  world  wron<;',  and  who 
steadfastly  <i'oes  to  work  to  pi'ove  his  ])()int.  Ijoi'u  in  bStil 
near  ( 'hi'istiania  :  educated  in  the  mu\'(M'sity  of  his  native 
city  ;  fond  of  all  the  sciences  ;  trained  as  a  zo()lo^uist  :  a  nat- 
tU'al  athlete,  an  expert  "skilober."  a  ,uood  hunter,  with  the 
sj)ir'it  for  a(h'enture,  which  is  totally  careless  of  all  ci'eatmx^ 
comforts,  Fi'idtjof  Xansen,  at  twenty-one,  stood  on  the 
])row  of  the  Vil:in(j.  a  \()rwe<i,ian  sealer,  bound  for  Arctic 
seas,  ready  to  me(>t  a  h)e  woi'thy  of  his  mettle. 

"i"hi<  trip  to  I',a>t  (ireenland  waters  foi-  the  pui'po>(^  ot 
iiathei'inu'  zo("llo^■ical  s])eciin(>ns  was  followeil  by  liis  a])i)oint- 
meiit  1  he  same  year  as  curator  in  the  Xaiui'al  1  li>to!'y  AIu>euni 
at  I'.ei'iivn. 

The  i-i'tu!-n  of  \oi-d<'n>kj("ild  in  ISS^b  from  his  -ecdud  re- 
markable joui'ney  to  (Ireen'and..  determineil  Xaii-eii  upon  a 
>imilar  jouriU'X',  the  succe-s  of  which  he  caretuliy  planned. 
\ni'd<ii-kj<ild  h.ad  made  lifteen  marche-  on  the  inland  ice 
from  Sopliia  Ilarbdr  >(»ut!i  to  1  )isco  IJay.  and  reaehf(l  an  alti- 
tmie  (if  forty-nine  hundred  feet.  seiidiiiL!.  ^killed  bapjx  on  -ki,- 
a  fart  lii-r  di-taMc('  nf  one  huiidre<l  an<l  fort  \'  mile-,  where  the\' 


FIUST  ARCTIC  EXPERIEyCE  403 

reached  an  elevation  of  sixty-six  hundred  feet,  on  the  marvel- 
lous iee-cap  which  still  rose  before  them. 

Accom])anied  hy  three  Xor\v(\iiians,  Otto  SvcM'drup,  Lieu- 
tenant Oluf  ('hristian  Dietrichson,  of  the  Xorwe^'ian  army, 
and  Kristian  Trana,  and  two  Lapps,  Balto  and  Ravna,  Nansen 
sailed  on  the  Danish  steamer  Thyra  from  Scotland,  May  9, 
18SS.  The  Thiji'd  was  to  carry  the  little  hand  of  explorers 
the  first  stag(^  of  their  journc^y  to  L'(dand.  At  the  Faroe 
I>lands,  Xansen  learned  of  tlie  extrem(d\'  had  condition  of 
the  ice  round  Iceland.  The  east  coast  of  the  island  was  re- 
l)oi-ted  inaccessible.  By  May  17  the  Tfnjra  stood  off  the 
\'estnian!ia  Islands,  and  later  she  pass(>d  Keydjanaes,  which 
cai'i'ies  the  only  li^ti'hthouse  Iceland  possesses. 

Anchorino;  off  Thinii'eyi-e,  the  ])art}'  took  leave  of  the 
T/////V/,  and.  warmly  welcomed  by  Ilerr  Gram,  the  merchant  of 
Thinu'eyre,  they  await(Ml  the  Jason,  which  was  to  convey  them 
to  the  coast  of  Greenland.  On  the  morninj^'  of  June  3,  the 
(\xp(M'tant  party  si^ihtc-d  a  little  steamer  slowly  workinf);  in- 
wards. As  sh(^  came  neai-er.  she  was  foimd  to  l)e  the  Isafold 
of  the  Xorwe.u'ian  Whalinji  ( 'ompany.  She  anchored  and  sent 
a  boat  on  slujre  amid  increasin,o;  (\xcitement.  "T  had  bep;un 
to  -us])f'ct  the  truth,'"  says  Xansen,  "when,  to  my  astonish- 
nii'iit  as  well  a^  joy,  I  recou'uized  in  tlu'  first  man  who  stepptnl 
a>hore  ( 'a]itain  Jacobs(>n  of  the  Jn:<nii.  Our  meeting  was 
almost  frantic,  l)ut  tlu^  story  was  soon  told.  He  had  reached 
I-;if.i<)rd,  and.  not  findin<i;  u<  thei'e.  liad  thought  of  coming 
on  to  Dyrafjord  with  the  Jnsn,/.  Pnit  with  the  strong  wind 
blowing  it  would  ha\-(^  taken  liis  heavily  riggerl  shi])  a  whole 
da\'  t()  make  th(>  voyaii'(\  and.  as  the  Xorvv-cgiaii  ( 'onipany's 
maiiau'er  nio>t  kindly  otfei'ed  to  send  the  Isnfnld  to  fetch  us, 
h(^-  hail  taken  the  op]:)ortunity  of  coming  too. 

■■  j-'arewells  were  hastily  said:  willing  ha.nds  transferred 
the  bauuaii'''.  which  eonsi-ted.  in  addition  to  rh'-  u.-ual  Alpine 
outfit,  of  ( 'anadian  and  Xorwegian  .-uow-sIkx^s,  instruments, 


404  THE   GREAT    WIIITE  yOnTH 

food,  fuel,  and  sl('C])in<;-  '^vdv,  a  load  of  1a\'c1v('  hundred  pounds 
for  lh(>ii'  li\-('  s1(m1i;(\s;  and  a  restive  and  unwilling  ])ony  bought 
of  Ilerr  ( Irani,  and  the  Ii<(ifuld  .steamed  out  of  the  fiord  and  to 
the  noi'thw'ards.'' 

Vor  six  \v(>eks  the  Jason  nuid(>  fruitl(\ss  attempts  to  land 
the  impatient  explorers  on  this  barren  eoast  of  (Ireenland, 
\vhen,,Jul\'  17,  ISSS,  Xansen  and  his  ])arty  attempted  by  boat 
to  make  ('ai)e  Dan,  from  which  they  wvrv  se])arated  by  an 
ice  str(>ani  ten  miles  wide. 

"  \\  hen  Ravna  saw  the  ship  for  the  last  time,"  writes  P)alt(), 
the  Lat)]).  "he  said  to  me  :  'What  fools  w(>  were  to  leave  her 
to  die  in  this  ])laee.  There  is  no  hope  of  life;  the  great  sea 
wiU  b(>  otu'  graves  ! ' " 

Slee]Vmg  U])on  the  fio(>s  at  night,  dragging  or  rowing  their 
boats  by  day,  the  journey  to  the  coast  was  ])erilous  and  dan- 
gerous in  the  (^xtrem(\  After  several  days  they  found  them- 
sel\-es  being  carried  south  ujion  the  floe  and  "straight  away 
from  shore,  a,t  a  pace  that  rendered  all  resistance  completely 
futile." 

'■July  20,"  says  X;msen,  "'T  was  roused  by  some  violent 
>;i()cks  to  the  floe  on  which  we  were  eiicam])e(l.  and  thought 
till'  motion  of  tlie  sea  nnist  have  inci'eased  vei'y  considerably. 
When  we  get  outside  we  disc()\-er  that  \\iv  (ioe  has  split  in 
two  not  far  fi'om  tlu>  tent.  I'he  Lai)ps.  who  had  at  once 
made  for  the  highest  ])oints  of  our  ])iece  of  ice,  now  shout 
that   t  he\'  can  see  t!ie  open  sea.    .    .    . 

•■'riic  swell  is  growing  heaviei'  and  lieax'ier.  and  the  \\'at(>r 
breaking  o\'er  our  floe  with  e\'er-inci'easing  I'oi'ce.  I'he 
blocks  of  ice  and  vlush.  which  come  from  llie  grinding  of  the 
l!oc>  loget  !iei-  and  ai'c  1  lii'own  U])  I'ound  the  edges  of  ou!'  piece, 
do  a  good  deal  to  break  the  \-iolence  of  the  wa\'es.  Th.o 
wor-'t  of  it  i>  that  we  are  being  cari'ied  seawards  with  ominous 
rapii  lity." 

Takinii   refuge   upon   a  stronger  and   larger  doe,   the  party 


PLAXS    THE   CBOSSIXG    OF  GREENLAND  40o 

awaited  the  issii(>  with  courage  and  reHignation,  though  it 
niu.st  be  confesscxl  the  poor  Lapp,s  were  not  in  the  Ije.st  of 
spirits.  "They  liad  given  up  hope  of  hfe,  and  were  making 
ready  for  death."  A  night  of  fearful  promise  succeeded  a 
dixy  of  inmiinent  perih  Sverch'up  took  t\\v  watch  and  paced 
alone  the  sea-washed  floe.  Several  times  he  had  stood  by 
the  tent  door  prepared  to  turn  his  comrades  out. 

'•()nce  he  actually  undid  one  hood,"  says  Xansen,  "took 
another  turn  to  the  boats,  and  then  another  look  at  the  surf, 
leaving  the  hood  unfastened  in  case  of  accidents.  A  huge 
crag  of  ice  was  swajdng  in  the  sea  close  beside  us,  and  threat- 
ening (n'er}'  moment  to  fall  upon  our  floe.  The  sin-f  was 
washing  us  on  all  sides.  .  .  .  The  other  l)oat,  in  which  Balto 
^\'as  asleep,  was  waslied  so  heaA'ily  that  again  and  again  Sver- 
dru})  had  to  hold  it  in  its  place." 

A  second  time  he  came  to  undo  the  tent  hood,  but  just  as 
thinji's  looked  their  worst,  the  floe  changed  her  course  and  as 
if  directed  1)y  an  unseen  hand,  sailed  toward  land,  and  took 
i'(^fug(^  in  a  good  har]:)our.  On  July  29,  the  fates  wer(>  kind,  and 
tluy  made  a  landing  at  Anoritok,  ()2°  05'  X.,  nearly  two  hun- 
dred miles  south  of  Cape  Dan.  Following  the  shore  to  the 
north,  they  f(41  in  with  natives  near  Cape  Bille. 

The  ice  joiu-ney  commenced  from  Xinivik  64°  4.5'  X'^., 
wliich  was  reachcxl  August  10,  after  pursuing  their  journey  up 
stee]),  irr(\gTflar  slopes,  covered  with  soft  snow  and  ])eset  with 
dangerous  crevasses  ;  they  made  only  forty  miles  inland  after 
sev(^nteen  days  of  most  arduous  travel,  and  reached  an  ele- 
vation of  six  thousand  feet. 

■"It  was  now  late  in  tli(>  year."  writ(\s  Xansen,  "and  the 
autunni  of  the  'inland  ice'  was  not  likel}'  to  i:»rove  a  g(nitle 
season,  so  the  fact  that  it  was  considerably  shorter  crossing 
to  the  head  of  one  of  th(^  fiords  in  the  neiglil)Ourhood  of 
(iodthaab  to  Christianshaab  was  an  argument  tliat  had  its 
weiglit.   ...     I   consulted  the  map  again  and  again,   mad(^ 


40G 


rilE   CHEAT    WHITE  XOUTII 


the  calculations  to  i)i\'.-('lf,  and  fjnall}'  dctcnninccl  upon  the 
(itjdlhaa!)  route.  .  .  .  The  })()int  where  1  thou^i;ht  of  (i,-ettin^ 
down  Was  that  which  we  actually  hit,  and  which  lies  at  about 
latitude  (id'  10'  X.  .  .  .  The  re-t  of  the  party  hailed  my 
chiuiiic  of  i^lan  with  acclamation.  They  seemed  to  have 
alread}'  had  more  than  enough  of  "inland  ice.'  were  l()n,ii'in,<^ 
h)r  kindlier  scenes,  and  gave  their  uncitialified  approval  to 
the  new  route." 

Sails  had  been  rigged  to  thesl(-ils,  and  with  the  ten-ific  winds 
which  swept  the  ice-ca]),  advance  was  assisted  by  this  means, 
the  men  marching  on  skis.  So  fright ful  were  the  storms  that 
rage(l  ()\-er  these  desolate  snow  fields  that  at  night  it  seeme(l 
as  if  the  t(-nt  would  !)(■  torn  to  shred-,  and  l)efore  a  start  could 
1k'  made  in  the  moi'uing,  the  sle<lge<  had  to  be  dug  out  of  the 
drifts  and  unloaded  so  that  their  i'imnei->  might  Ik-  scra])e(l 
clean  of  >U(.iw  and  ice,  "a  ta>k  \\iiii'h  we  f(.)und  anything  l)Ut 
grateful  in  the  t)iting  Avind.  .  .  .  but  the  ci'uellest  work  of 
the  whole  day  Was  gettinu  the  tml  Uj)  in  the  e\'ening,  for  we 
had  to  begin  Ijy  lacing  the  flooi'  and  walls  together:  as  this 
had  to  be  done  witli  the  unj^rot eet(  (1  hngers.  we  had  to  take 
good  eare  not  to  get  them  st^riou-ly  frozen."  "()ne  e\-ening 
wh(n  1  wa-  at  work,"  >ays  XauM'ti.  ""I  .-uddenly  di,-eovered 
that  the  finger-  of  I  loth  my  hands  were  white  u])  to  the  i)ahn-. 
I  felt  them  and  t^)und  the}'  wei'c  as  hard  and  >en>eless  as  wood. 
]'>y  rubbitm-  and  beating  them.  ho\\'e\'er.  I  .-oon  set  the  blood 
in  eii'culal  ion  and  bi-uimht  their  enldiir  b;tek." 

The  I.;i])]).<  -uffereij  fi'om  suo w-1  iji nd Me--,  ami  all  wei'e 
bui-ued  by  1  he  -nil'-  rays.  Thi>  wa-  !ai'L!.ely  due  to  the  want  of 
deii-it\-  in  the  ail',  and  the  reljcciion  of  the  ray>  from  the  le\'el 
expan-e  oi'  -now. 

■'Aiioi;!  1(11  in  ilie  iiK-rniim'  of  .\ugu<l  .'!!."  A\-rile<  Dietrieh- 
son.  "we  -;;W  land  for  the  la-t  time.  W'e  \\-ere  upon  the  civ-t 
of  one  of  1  hr  'ireat  wa\-e-.  or  u'eni  le  undula'  ions  in  the  -urfaee. 
and  had  our  final  ulinip-e  of  a   little  point  of  rock  whieh  ])ro- 


CAJtRIES    OCT   HIS    I'y DEUTAKiyc H  407 

tni(l('(l  i'roni  the  snow.  It  lay,  of  course,  far  in  tlic  interior, 
and  for  many  days  had  b(H'n  the  only  daj'k  point,  save  our- 
seh'es  and  the  sledges,  on  which  our  ey(\s  could  rest." 

At  an  tdtitude  of  nearly  eight  thousand  feet,  they  toiled 
on  for  days  over  the  interminable  desert  of  snow  ;  there  was 
no  l)reak  in  the  horizon,  no  objcHjt  to  rest  the  eye  upon,  and 
a  course  was  laid  out  by  tlie  dilio-ent  use  of  the  compass  alone. 
From  the  second  w(H'k  in  Septemlx^r  the  party  had  been  anx- 
iously looking  for  tlie  Ijeginning  of  the  western  slope.  On 
Se]item])er  19,  Balto's  joyful  cry  of  ''Land  ahead!"  greeted 
tlie  ach'ancing  sltMJge  fleet.  Th(>  ice  conditions  had  Ijecome 
mor(>  formidable  in  character,  i\\v  gradual  descent  treacherous 
in  the  (wtrerne. 

"It  was  a  curious  sight  for  nK>  to  see  the  t-\vo  ^-essels  coming 
rushing  along  behind  me,''  says  Xansen,  "with  their  scjuare 
Mking-like  sails  showing  dark  against  the  white  snow 
fi(>lds  and  the  big  round  disk  of  the  moon  Ijehind.  Fastc^r  and 
faster  I  go  flying  on,  while  the  ice  gets  more  and  moi-e  difh- 
cult.  Tiierc-  is  wors(>  still  ahead,  I  can  see,  and  in  another 
moment  I  am  into  it.  Tlie  ground  is  here  seamed  with  cre- 
vasses, ])ut  tlK'v  are  full  of  snow  and  not  dangerous.  Every 
now  and  then  I  feel  my  staff  go  through  into  s])ace,  but  the 
cracks  are  narrow  and  the  sledges  glide  easily  over.  Presently 
I  cross  a  broader  one,  and  see  just  m  front  of  me  a  liuge  black 
abyss.  I  creej)  cautiously  to  its  edge  on  the  slippery  ice, 
which  here  is  covered  by  scarcely  ;iny  snow,  and  loolc  down 
into  the  deej:),  dai'k  chasm.  Eeyond  it  I  can  see  crevasse  after 
crevass(\  running  ])arallel  witli  one  another,  and  showing 
dark  blu(^  in  the  moonliglit.  I  now  tell  tlu^  others  to  stop, 
as  tliis  is  no  ground  to  traverse^  in  the  dark,  and  we  must  halt 
for  llie  night.'' 

Th(^  joy  of  h;;ving  crossed  the  ice-ca])  and  the  j^rospect  of 
successfully  ]^as-inu-  the  inland  ice  to  the  more  cong(>nial  soil 
of  the  western  coast  caused  the  little  liand  to  meet  cheerfullv 


408  THE  a  I!  EAT   WHITE  yoinif 

the  most  arduous  labour  in  a  ])orilous  (h^sccMit  over  crevasses 
and  ,u;laci('i-,  mountain,  and  valley  into  the  ])romised  land,  of 
which  old  Ravna  spoke  with  enthusiasm  :  — 

'■  I  like  the  west  coast  well  ;  it  is  a  <2,X)od  })lace  for  an  old  La])p 
to  li\-e  in  ;  th(M-(>  are  i)lenty  of  reindeer  ;  it  is  just  like  the 
mountains  of  Fimnarken." 

Ilavinj;-  reaeluMl  the  coast,  it  became  essential  to  reaeli 
ei\ili/alion  as  w(>ll,  and  to  ex})edite  the  journey  it  was  found 
desirable  to  jz;o  by  sea.  The  lack  of  a  boat  was  a  small  con- 
sidei-ation  to  men  who  had  boldly  sailed  sknl^es  across  tlu^ 
(ircH'iiland  ice-ca])  —  for  thou<>;h  wood,  tools,  and  materials 
wei'e  lackin<>;,  there  was  the  t(>nt  and  j^lenty  of  willow  bushes 
around,  some  six  or  sc^ven  fcH't  in  heiji'ht.  "Ribs  made  of 
these  would  not  be  as  straight  as  w(^  could  wish,"  says  Xansen, 
''and  would  not  stretch  the  canvas  very  evenly,  but  the  main 
thina;  was  to  i;;et  her  to  carry  us.  .  .  .  By  th(>  e\'(>nin(i'  the 
boat  was  finished.  She  was  no  boat  for  a  pv'r/.e  com])etition, 
indeed  in  shape  she  was  more  like  a  tortoise-shell  than 
anythin.*;'  else." 

In  this  crazy  little  craft  Nansen  and  Sverdrup  rowed  away 
to  <;-et  I'elief  fi'om  the  inhabitants  of  (Jodtliaab.  Tlunr  com- 
])anioiis  j'emained  in  Ameralikfjord,  in  charji'e  of  the  sled,<i;es 
and  ('(luiiMuent.  (ireat  was  the  rejoicinji  in  (iodthaab  wjuni 
tlic  exploi'ers  reached  there  and  immediate  i)i-ei)arations  wei"e 
made  to  succour  th(>  remainder  of  the  i)arty.  l'lies(>  had 
slowly  m()\"(>d  in  the  direction  of  (lodthaab  and  _ti'ratefully 
welcomed  the  Ivskimos  who  met  tliem  with  sui)])lies. 

rufortunately  tlu^  ])arty  missed  the  last  l\urop(>an  vessel 
that  left  ]'n)rt  that  season  and  were  obi iiicd  to  s])end  the\vint(M' 
in  (li-eenland.  l.('tt(M-s  and  (lesi)atches,  howe\-er.  had  b(MMl 
can'ird  by  the  l''skinios  down  tlu^  coast  to  the  Fn.r,  M"('lin- 
tock'-^  old  \-csscl,  in  his  famous  searcli  for  Sir  .lolin  I'Van.klin, 
and  ttii>  xctcran  littl(>  craft  carrieil  the  thrillin.u'  news  of  the 
"  I'ii'st  cro^-inti' of  ( Irecnland  ""  to  10urop(\     'Jdic  wintci' passed, 


CARRIES    OUT  HIS    I'XBERTAKLXGS  409 

and  on  April  15  "the  settlement  rang  with  the  single  shriek 
—  'The  ship,  the  ship.'  —  Joyfully  the  brave  band  of  explorers 
received  news  from  home,  and  almost  sorrowfully  prepared 
to  leave  their  hospitable  friends  of  Godthaab." 

On  May  21,  1889,  Xansen  and  his  companions  made  their 
triumphant  entry  into  Copenhagen  —  and,  concludes  Xansen, 
"^lay  30  we  entered  Christiania  Fjord,  and  were  received 
by  hundreds  of  sailing  boats  and  a  whole  fleet  of  steamers. 
.  .  .  When  we  got  near  the  liarbour,  and  saw  the  ramparts 
of  the  old  fortress  and  the  quays  on  all  sides  black  with  peo[)le, 
Dietrichson  said  to  Ravna  :  'Are  not  all  these  people  a 
fine  sight,  Ravna?'  'Yes,  it  is  fine,  very  fine  ;  —  but  if  they 
had  only  l)een  reindeer  !'  was  Ravna's  answer." 

Previous  to  his  famous  journey  across  Greenland,  in  one 
of  his  many  conferences  with  Dr.  H.  Rink,  that  veteran  ex- 
plorer of  Greenland,  Xansen  was  addressed  by  Airs.  Rink, 
who  said  to  him  :  "You  must  go  to  the  Xorth  Pole,  too,  some 
day,"  and  without  hesitation  he  answered  her  emphatically, 
as  though  his  mind  had  long  ago  been  made  up  on  that  point, 
"I  mean  to." 

From  his  twenty-third  year,  Xansen  had  bent  his  mind  and 
energies  upon  that  great  journey  into  the  Polar  regions,  upon 
which  he  did  not  embark,  however,  until  nine  years  later. 

In  the  meantime,  he  was  appointed  curator  in  the  IMuseum 
of  Comparative  Anatomy  at  the  Christiania  University. 

In  tlie  Danish  Geographical  Journal  for  1885,  ]Mr.  Lytzen, 
Colonial  Alanager  at  Julianshaab,  gave  an  interesting  account 
of  c(>rtain  relics  of  the  ill-fated  Jeannetle  expedition  picked 
u])  i)y  E>kimos  on  the  west  Greenland  coast.  Among  these 
articles  was  a  list  of  provisions,  signed  by  Captain  De  Long, 
a  manuscri])t  list  of  the  Jeannetle ■<  boats,  a  pair  of  oil-skin 
breech(\s  markeil  "Louis  Xoros,"  the  name  of  a  meml)er  of 
th(>  Jeatineffe'x  crew,  the  peak  of  a  cap  with  F.  C.  Lindemann, 
or  Xindemann,  written  on  it. 


410 


THE  (;ni:AT  white  yoirni 


It  \\'a>  plain  to  Dr.  Xaii.-cii  t!iat  these  articles  had  (lrifte(l 
no  le>s  than  twenty-nine  hundred  miles  and  in  a  perioil  of 
eleven  hiuidred  days,  nijr  could  he  e.-cape  the  conviction  that 
a  current  ])a.-ses  acro>s  or  very  near  the  Pole  into  the  sea  l)e- 
tween  Greenland  and  Spit/1  ler.tieu.  r])on  thi<  h\']iothesi.s 
Dr.  Xansen  ur^u'ed  his  plan  to  take  a  well-pro\-isi(jned  ship, 
■"huilt  on  such  i)i'inci])les  as  to  enable  it  to  withstand  the 
])ressure  of  ice  —  for  on  this  -anie  diift-ice,  and  by  the 
same  rotite,  it  inust  \)V  no  less  p(j-sil)le  t(j  trans])(jrt  an  exi)e- 
dition."' 

In  spite  of  the  madness  of  his  -cheme.  its  condemnation  by 
many  of  the  most  eminent  Ai-ctic  authorities  of  l]uro])(^  and 
America,  the  XorwcKian  ^■o\'ermnent  extended  its  patrona,L!;e, 
and  the  ■■  Storthin,i;:  "  ,<i.'rante(l  eie\-en  tliou^aiid  two  hundred  and 
hfty  ])ounds  toward  the  exi)en>es  of  the  ex])edit  i(jn,  the  re- 
main<ler  !>eini!;  collecteii  by  private  >ub-cription. 

The  Frcin,  eiu'ht  ]i;mdi'('d  tons  displacement,  was  liuilt 
with  e>pecial  attention  to  the  con-trui-iion  of  the  >ha])e  of 
the  hull,  so  as  to  (Aivv  the  .ui'eatest  ])o.->ib)le  resistance  to  the 
altack>  of  the  ice.  She  carru-d  reijui.-ite  i)i'(i\-i.-i()iis  for  diotis 
and  men  for  five  yeiirs,  and  coal  for  four  months'  steaming 
at  full  spee.l. 

d'he  na\-i,<i,'atioi)  oi  tlie  Fmrn  was  ,Li'i\'en  to  ("aijtain  Otto 
S\'erdi'Up  :  Lieutenant  Siaur<l  Scott-IIan-en.  of  the  Xo.r- 
weL:ia.n  na\'y.  wa>  tendei'ed  the  maiiauejuent  of  the  mete- 
orolnti-ical.  a-t  i'()nomic:il,  and  m;umeiic  obsci-\-ai  lou-.  Dr. 
Henrik  P)l''ssin'i.  pliy-icjau  and  boiani-t .  Chief  l-^nuin('('i'  .ViUoii 
.\mund-eii,  I.ii-ui  ciiaiil  in  the  Ive.-er\"e.  l-"r(-d<'rick  .!<  ihau !ie-en , 
who-e  ('a^'iTiir--  to  aei'ompany  the  e.\])edil  ion  h-d  him  to 
accc])t   the  pii-ilioti  of  -toker,  and  >e\'en  other-,  made  up  the 

Jirr-!  lUIM'l    (  if   the   ('Xp.edii  i(  .11. 

'\'\\f  l-'ri!i!i  lefi  \i)!-wa\'  ill  .bme,  l'^'.t^'),  -kii'trd  the  north 
ri  la-t  -  t  if  I'Ju'i  ipe  ani  I  A-i;i.  and  pi U  iiili  >  t  ■'.•  •  I'dlar  pack  ic('  ueal' 
tiie  \('W  Siberia    Idaii'l.  S(  .  )t  i 'i  nber  2J.    IMt-k 


V<)VA<rE   ON    THE   "FIIAM"  411 

Frozen  fast  in  tiu;  ice  three  days  later,  tlu^  Frdin  stood  off 
northwest  of  ^^auaikof  Land  in  78^  oO'  X.,  1)34°  E.  It  now 
l)ehooved  the  company  to  shij)  rudder,  ch'an  the  boilers,  and 
I)re])are  idr  winter.  Xo  idle  nujnients  could  be  s])ared,  rigging 
nnist  be  cared  for,  sails  inspectt'd,  ]irovisions  of  all  kinds  got 
out  from  the  cases  down  in  the  hold,  and  handed  over  to  tlie 
cook,  and  the  smithy  called  u})on  for  his  offices  in  re])airing 
bear  tra])s,  hooks,  kniv(>s,  etc. 

A  busy  life  is  a  hap])y  one,  and  the  Fraiti-s  com]:)am' lived  in 
harnuniious  go(>d-f(-lI(jwshi]3  and  drifted  leisureh'  with  the 
great  ice-pack,  just  as  X'ansen  had  ])i'edicted  they  would,  witli 
only  occasional  visits  from  bears  to  break  the  monotony  of 
coinjilete  istilation. 

In  Decemb(M',  X*ans(>n.  who  had  road  Dr.  Kane's  fearful 
experiences  in  the  Arctic  night,  with  insufficient  food  for  dogs 
and  men,  suffering  from  the  ravages  of  scurvy,  compares  liis 
own  condition  in  the  comfortable  warm  ([uarters  on  Ijoai'd  the 
Fran).  X'o  iigeing  or  (le])ressing  effects  had  Ixh'u  felt  by  any 
member  of  his  ])ai1\'.  The  ([uiet,  regular  hd'e  sec^ned  to  agree 
with  tlunn,  and  with  good  h)od,  in  ])rofusion  and  \'ai'ie1y,  a 
warm  shelter,  pl(,'nty  (jf  ex(>rci>e  in  tlie  o])en  air,  and  cheerful 
diversions  in  the  sha))e  of  instruct! v(^  bo(jks  and  amusing 
games,  the  nien  ke]^t  up  a  cheerful  balance  of  good  health 
and  spirits.  X'evertheless,  the  ]nitience  of  all  on  Ixjard  was 
>()rely  iried  before  the  cruise  was  over. 

The  di'ift  of  the  shi])  during  the  ihii'ty-five  months  of  her 
l)e<etnient,  was  imeven  and  iri'egular  :  lier  zigzag  coui'se  as 
she  receded  or  ai)proache(l  her  goal,  encouraged  or  dis- 
hearten.ed  her  entlnisiast ic  cr('W.  She  met  bravely  and  with- 
stood in  a  remarlcable  manner  tfireatened  disaster  from  the 
!(•('  pressures.  AMld  (>nthusiasni  greeted  tlie  slightest  advanc(\, 
such  as  was  found  February  lO,  \S[)\.  when  the  observations 
slujwed  SO'  1'  north  latitude,  a  i'ew  miiuitc^  north  of  tlie 
obser\'ati()ns  taken   tlie   week   befoi'e.      And   a   coi'i'c^jjonding 


412  IIIE   CHEAT    WHITE   SORT II 

depression  is  ii()1ic(Ml  wluii  coDtriiry  winds  retard  or  actually 
force  the  Frit  in  to  retrace  her  hard-earned  i)ro<i,res.s. 

It  is  not  surpi'isinf;  that  Xansen'.s  adventurous  sjjii'it  <i,i"e\v 
restive  under  the  enforced  inactivit}'  of  the  Fr(iiii\s  uncertain 
tlrift.  Early  in  the  year  1894  one  finds  his  mind  working 
U])on  d(>e]>laid  i)lans  to  force  the  issu(>  with  the  enemy,  and 
e\'entually  he  announced  his  intentions  of  attem])tin<2;  one 
of  the  most  darin<2;  and  hazardous  sled<!,-e  journeys  in  the  annals 
of  Arctic  adventure.  Mis  i)lan  was  to  leave  the  shi])  with  one 
('oin])ani()n,  advance^  ov(M'  the  frozen  ])olar  ocean,  as  far  as 
])ossil)le,  and  without  making  an  effort  to  rejoin  tlu^  ship, 
retreat  by  way  of  Franz  Josef  Land  and  Spitzbergen,  back  to 
Norway.  Februai'y  2(),  1S9"),  he  oflicially  inlormed  tlu*  crew 
that  after  his  (leptu'tur(>,  ('a])tain  Sx'crdrup  was  to  be  chief 
oflicei'  of  the  (expedition,  with  kieutenant  Scott-IIansen  sec- 
ond in  conunand. 

On  the  k-lth  of  March,  1895,  the  Fmtn  stood  in  84°  04'  X., 
102°  E.,  and  amid  a  ]:)arting  salute  with  flag,  ixninant,  and  guns, 
Xansen's  third  and  final  sledge  dash  to  tlie  nortli  was  taken. 
Johannes(Mi,  who  had  been  chosen  as  his  companion  for  this 
arduous  undertaking,  was  in  all  res])ects  (pialified  for  the 
worlv  —  an  acco]n])lished  snow-shoer  eijualled  by  few  ''in 
his  ])owers  of  endurance,  —  a  fine  fellow  ph\'>icall\'  and 
mentall\'." 

('){]'  they  went,  accom])anied  for  a  shoii  distance  by  several 
of  the  ci'ew.  ddu'ee  sle<lges  drawn  by  twenty-eight  dogs  wei'c^ 
loaded  with  two  kayaks,  an<l  ))i'o\'isi()n<  for  one  hundi'cd  da\'s 
foi'  t  he  men  and  lift  \'  days'  dog-food.  Xanseti  aiKklohannesen, 
fully  conlident  that  fifty  da\'s  would  see  them  at  the  J'ole, 
])lunged  into  the  unknown  ;ind  met  l)ra\'ely  the  ])itil(>s  foe. 
Hummocks  and  i'idge<,  lanes  and  slush,  cold  and  exh.aust  ion, 
ttn'se  wcvi'  (li(>  impedinuMits  to  pi'ogress. 

it  wa>  Xan<cn"<  I'ule  to  march  nine  or  ten  hours,  liroken 
1)\-  a  midday  halt  foi'  a  lit  I  le  i'e<t  and  a  bit  to  eat .      44ie<e  stops 


^AXSEX  AXI)  JOIIANXESEN   START  FOR    POLE      413 

were  a  bitten-  trial  to  the  men  exposed  to  the  m(>rciless  winds 
witiiout  fir(>  or  shelter,  to  l)c  followed  by  the  uncomfortable 
task  of  disentangling  the  dogs'  traces,  bc^fore  they  were  able 
to  take  up  the  march  again.  (3n  March  29,  they  were  "grind- 
ing on,  but  vm-y  slowly '';  the  dogs  were  showing  signs  of  weak- 
ening —  there  was  endless  disentangling  of  the  hauling  ropes. 

On  April  3  they  were  making  their  (l(\-<p(n-ate  way  over 
ridges  and  lances  which  had  frozen  together  with  rul)ble  on 
either  side.  It  was  impossil)le  to  use  snow-shoes,  there  b(nng 
too  little  snow  l)(>tween  the  hummocks.  Thick  wivither,  with 
diH'eptive  mists  making  all  things  white,  added  to  their  mis- 
(>ri(^s  ;  irrt^gularities  and  holes  and  the  spaces  betw(Hm,  so  that 
the  men  and  dogs  stumbh^l  l)lindly  on,  crashing  into  pitfalls 
and  cracks  and  running  the  grav(>  risk  of  broken  bones. 

On  A])ril  0  tlie  ice  grew  worse  and  wors(>;  after  an  advance 
of  only  four  miles  Xansen  and  Johannesen  were  in  despair. 

The  following  day,  the  limit  of  patience  was  reached  — 
a  world's  record  made  —  Xansen  found  himself  in  86°  13. G'  X., 
abt)ut  9")^  east  longitude  :  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty-oni^  geographical  miles  from  th(>  Frcun,  with  two 
hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  betw(Hni  himself  and  the  Pole. 
Tw(mty-thre(M:lays  had  pass(Ml;  Xanscmand  Johannescni  tui'ued 
their  backs  upon  a  veritabh^  chaos  of  ice-l)locks,  stretching 
a-;  far  as  the  horizon,  and  i)repar(Hl  for  tlunr  retreat  to  Oape 
rhgely. 

On  tins  remarkable  jotirney  southward,  confidently  expected 
by  Xans(Mi  to  extinid  over  not  more  than  three  months,  btit 
\\-liich  in  reality  lengthencMl  to  oUi^  hundriMl  and  fifty-thr(H> 
da\'s,  the-  coiu'age  and  al)ility  of  thes(^  men  was  t(>sted  to  the 
tit  most.  I-'rightftil  gales,  which  disrupt(Ml  tlu^  ]iack,  tmd  thick 
fogs,  whicli  mad(^  advance  almo.-t  im]:i()ssibl(\  added  to  their 
discomfort^  and  ])ri\'ations.  Tlie  dogs  I'educed  in  strcMigth 
from  exhau-^tion  and  lack  of  food,  died  oiu^  by  one  or  wer(> 
killed  and  fed  to  the  survivors.     Tlu^  work  of  hauliuii-  iKH'amo 


414  THE   Gin: AT    WHITE  yOUTIF 

hoavicr  and  li("a\"icr,  as  their  nunilxT.-  (liininishcd.  Tho 
iiKai  had  the  iiii.-foi'tuiic  lo  ahow  their  ^\'atf■l^es  to  run  down, 
there!)}'  nialvin,u;  tlieir  loiiuitiide  ohservations  uncertain,  the 
I'e.-ult  of  which  war^  tliat  they  tra\'elle(l  t'ar  otit  of  their  c(jiir.-e 
in  searcli  (jf  th(>  land,  whicli  per.-i>tent!y  remained  hidd(>n. 

Karl}'  in  June  it  Ix'canie  necessai'}'  to  curtail  tlie  rations, 
and  althou.uh  they  steadfastly  kept  t(.)  weiji'hts,  in  order  tliat 
their  reniaininu'  ]ii'ovisions  W(_)uld  la-t,  they  were  recluced, 
June  IS,  to  a  fruii'al  su])])er  of  two  ounees  aleuronic  bread  and 
one  ounee  butter  ])er  man  —  and  ci'ei)t  into  their  sleepin<i,- 
ba,u>  hunu'r}'  and  exhausted. 

The  ca])ture  of  a  seal  reHe\'ed  a  situation  that  threatened 
to  become  very  serious.  At  last,  on  July  2b  the  tired  eyes  of 
the  travellers  rested  u])on  something  risin,t£  above  the  never- 
ending  white  line  of  th(>  horizon,  and  the  ,io}'ful  cr}'  AVas  raided 
of  "Land  I  Land!"  Pro,ii'ress  U)  the  ha])])}'  huntin.ti-grouirl 
wa>  exa-]")eratin,<iJ}'  -low  and  not  without  its  startlin,<i  ad- 
ventures. Johannoen  was  attacked  b\-  a  ben.r.  and  without 
the  ]")rom])t  aetion  on  the  ])art  of  Xan-en  would  doubtle.-s 
have  ])i'oved  it--  \'ictini. 

()])en  w;itei'  wa-  reached  Aiiiru>t  b.  1^0.").  and.  b}-  dint  of 
l)addlin^-  and  haulin.o;  uj)  on  the  floe-  to  ada'ance  b}-  sledu'e. 
on  Au!i'u-t  U)  they  stood  on  t  he  di'}'  land  of  tL)Uen  I-land. 
( 'out  iiiuinti;  on  thdr  journey  the}'  --oon  I'fali/ed  that  the 
r,'ii)iil  ai)j)roaeh  of  winter  would  make  the  cifort  to  I'l-ach 
.■^|)irzl)i'rueu  im])o<-il)le.  >o  tliey  encamjied  on  onf-  of  the  out- 
l}'inL£  i-larnb  off  I-'ranz  ■L).-ef  Land  ami,  buildinu'  theni>e!\'es 
a  -loni'  hut  co\-ei-e'l  with  walru<  hide-.  t)rf])ar<'d  to  -])end  the 
winter.  P)car-  and  walru-  \\'ere  ])lcnliful  and  -ut)])lie4l  them 
with  abundant  fooil  :  other  same  wa-  oeea-ional!}'  .-hot. 
Till'  cold,  Arctic  niuht  found  tliem.  on  th'  wliole.  riuite  com- 
fortalilc  in  their  liut.  The  train-oil  l;im])-  kc|)t  the  tem]")e!'a- 
turc  ill  liic  miijillc  of  the  room  al'o^it  freeziuL!,'.  I'^oi'  nine 
Uioiith-    Xan-eii    and   .lnhaiinc-i  n   hiln  mated    tliu-,    v.'ith     no 


LIFFICl'LTIES   OF  TRAVEL  41') 

variation  to  their  cxistenco  but  th(^  taking  of  tho  most  neces- 
sary nieteorolo^ii'ical  ol)servations. 

Willi  the  return  oi'  si:)i'ing  tlu^  two  "wild  men"  made  every 
pr(>])aration  lor  their  journey  to  Si)itzb(U'<;-en.  This  was  no 
(•as\-  matter,  considering'  they  lacked  everything,  and  the  few 
reserve  stor(s  of  flour  and  chocolate  had  mildewed  and 
sjjoiled  durin<;-  the  winter.  On  2^Iay  19,  1890,  the  sledges 
stood  loaded  and  lashed  and  after  leaving  inside  th(^  hut  a 
short  re])ort  of  their  journey  and  adventures,  Xansen  and 
Johaniu  sen  started  for  SpitzlxM'gen.  Though  the  winter  had 
been  long  and  monotonous,  advent  ur(>  gr(>ete(l  them  fre- 
(luently  in  their  a<lvance.  Xans(>n  n(^arly  lost  his  life  liy 
I'alling  into  a  wat(M--hole.  They  were  delayed  by  a  gal(\  during 
which  they  lunirly  lost  their  kayaks.  Seeing  these  frail  crafts, 
^A'ith  all  they  possessed  on  l)oar(l,  'drifting  rapidly  away  from 
tlieir  moorings,  Xansen  s])rang  into  the  icy  water  and  made  a 
desperate  attempt  at  i-(>scue.  Meanwhile.  Johami(\sen  ])aced 
re>tl(\<sly  up  and  down  the  ice  in  an  agony  of  sus]:)(Mise.  With 
strokes  growing  more  and  nioi'c  feeble,  the  swimmer  rt^alized 
the  des])erate  -situation  an<h  ])utting  i'oi'th  his  last  benumbed 
energies  in  a  final  >ti'ok(\,  gras])(Hl  a  snow-shoe  which  lay  across 
tlie  (avl.  All  but  frozen,  Xansen  had  great  difficulty  in  get- 
tins:'  into  the  k;iyak  and  still  moi'e  trouble  in  ])addling  to  land. 
Xunib  and  shivering,  the  wind  l)iiing  his  v(My  marrow,  ho 
\'et  had  c()urag(>  to  fire  at  two  auks  wliich  he  secau'ed  Uyr  a 
w:irm  and  welcome*  su])])er. 

In  the  m(>antime,  theii'  nu^at  was  ne;i,rl}'  g'on(\  The  outlook 
was  anything  l)Ut  jii'omising.  In  these  frail,  weather-worn, 
c.'in\'a--co\'('r('d  ka>'aks.  twelve  feet  long,  about  Two  and  one 
half  feet  wi;le  aPid  hai'dly  moi'e  tiian  one  and  one  fourth  feet 
dee]),  tliei'e  was  yet  a  journey  of  two  hundred  miles  of  ocean, 
more  or  Ic-^  encumbered  by  ice.  ^vhi(•h  iiUei'vened  between 
tliemand  S])il  zlxM'gm.  where  theii'  only  ho])e  lay  in  lieiitg 
taken  aboard  oiu'  of  the  small  \'e>sels,  wliich  \-i<it  \\\v<c  shores 


410  THE   nil  EAT    WIUTE   A'0/,'77/ 

(>v('ry  suniinor.  The  future  for  Xanscu  aiul  Joluiniu'son  was  in- 
deed des])erate,  but  a  ha])])y  chance  hroujiht  tlieni  timely  de- 
liverance, and  the  dramatic  niec-tin^'  with  Fi-ederick  (I.Jackson, 
.June  17,  1800,  in  the  isolated  re<:ions  of  i-'ranz  Josef  Land 
terminated  one  of  the  most  brilliant  retreats  in  Arctic  hist(jry. 

-Mr.  Jackson  and  his  com])anions.  \vlio  f(^r  two  years  had 
been  makinii;  most  valuable  scicntiiic  ob>ervation<  and 
collcctin.ii-  s])ecimens  in  all  dei)artment.-  of  natural  science 
which  the  islands  and  surroundin,us  seas  afforded,  welcomed 
the  \vander(-rs  with  o]ien  arms,  broujiht  them  to  the  liouse, 
fed,  and  wa.rmed  them,  and,  Itest  of  all,  ,uave  them  uews  from 
home  and  letters.  It  was  not  sur])i'i>in,<i'  that  the  first  ni.uht 
was  s])ent  in  readin<i;  home  letters,  which  Jackson  liad  faith- 
full}'  carried  for  them  into  these  de>olate  re<j,i(ins,  and  in  talk- 
in^ii'  over  the  stran_ti('  adventures  now  so  ha])])il}'  ended.  Vor 
at  last  their  wcjrk  was  done,  and,  as  Xansen  said,  ''he  didn't 
want  t(j  ^leep,  he  felt  so  ha])])y." 

So  the  days  ]")ass(Ml  rai)idly  until  the  Wniihi-nrrl  came, 
whicli  broutiht  yearly  su])])lie>  to  .lacjv-on  and  carried  liome 
the  ad\'entur(jus  ex])lorei-s.  ddiey  readied  ^  ardo  ITavfii, 
.\u<i,'U>t  b'-J.  .\11  that  was  nee<led  to  com])lete  the  ha])])iric-s 
of  the  home-cominu'  wa-  news  of  the  Frmn.  and  this  was  not 
loim-  withheld.  On  Auu'ust  20,  bsOt;,  the  joyful  tidinu>  of  the 
ari'ival  of  tfie  Frnm  reach<'d  Xan-fii  in  a  brief  tel(\<i,ram  sent 
fi'om  ."^kyaer\'o,    Ki'ai'iianuvm   l"ioi'(l. 

.^Iie  h;ul  pui'-ueil  her  monotonous  drift  to  hei-  hiuhest  ])oint 
to  the  we>t -north  w(--t.  S.")^  'u'  X..  <)(|-  \]..  chanuini;.'  to  a  south- 
southea-t  directioii,  to  SI"  ()'.)'  X..  bV  1^..  where  she  r('main(Mi 
nearl\'  -tatioiiar\'  from  I'Vbi-iiai'\'  until  ,bme.  ISOli.  ddie 
open  -ummer  pcniiilleil  ('a])t;,iii  S\-ci'drup  to  ])U-h  throuuii 
licr  ice  barrier,  and.  by  the  juiliciou-  u>c  of  e.\i)lo>i\-e>.  bla<t 
hi-r  \va\'  to  the  o])cn  water.  .\u<i-u-l  bb  IMtO.  north  of  .^i)itz- 
beriicn. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

Journeys  of  Dr.  A.  Bunge  and  Buron  E.  von  Toll.  —  ]-]xi)lorati(jn  in 
Spitzbergen.  —  Sir  ]\lurtin  Conway. — Dr.  A.  G.  Xathorst. — 
Profc.->.sor  J.  II.  Core.  — Andree'.s  l)alloon  expedition  to  the  Xorth 
Pole.  —  Search  for  Andree  by  Theodor  Lerner.  —  J.  Stadiing, 
Dr.  A.  (i.  Xatlior.-st.  —  Captain  Bade.  —  A\'alter  WeHnian'.s  plan 
to  reach  the  Pole  from  Spitzbergen.  —  Italian  expedition  under 
Duke  of  Abruzzi. —  Lo.ss  of  the  Stella  Pvlare. —  Captain  Uniberto 
Cagni's  journey.  —  Breaks  the  record. — Retreat.  —  Home.  - - 
Baldwin-Ziegler  exi)edition  of  19UU.  —  Complete  equipment. — 
Return  of  expedition  in  autumn.  —  Ziegler  expedition  under 
Anthony  I'iala. —  The  America  r(>ach(\s  high  northing.  —  Winters 
in  Tri])litz  Bay.  —  Is  destroyed.  —  b'ailure  of  .-^ledge  jounuys.  — 
Relief  ship  doe:,  not  come. — Second  winter.  —  Return  of  l)art\' 
l)y  Terra  Xuva  in  1!)()3. 

The  voyage  of  the  Jcannettc,  among  otlier  valuable  scien- 
tific results,  had  ])rove(l  Wrangell  Land  to  be  an  island  of 
ntoderate  size.  Tlie  drift  of  the  Freuii  had  (U^nionstrated 
the  the(jry  of  a  i)olar  ocean  of  vast  dimensions  and  great  (le])tli. 
Tlie  interest,  ih(n'ef(H'e,  in  Arctic  ox])loration  for  the  ne.xt  few 
ycai's  was  centred  in  numerous  sci(nitific  jxirties  which  thor- 
ouuhly  examincil,  siu'vcyed,  and  ex])ior(Ml  the  tmknown  sec- 
tions (.)f  land-  bordering  on  the  Polar  Basin. 

As  ear!\-  as  ISS."),  an  expcMlition  was  fitted  out  under  the 
atis]Me('s  of  the  Iin])erial  Russian  ( !eogra])hical  Society,  and 
]:)lace(l  in  ehai'gc  of  Dr.  .\.  Pnuige  and  l^aron  K.  vr)ii  Toll  for 
scientific  and  geogra])hical  woi']<  in  the  Siberian  Island.  ToU 
\'isited  Xo\-a  Sibiir  and  trav(>rsed  the  entii'c  coast  of  Kotelnoi; 
in  tlie  meant  inie.  I)i'.  P)Unge  exploi'cd  ( ireat  Liachof,  where 
he  seeure(l  a  \'ahiable  collection  of  fossils. 
-'  i;  417 


41.^  TIIK   a  HEAT    WIiriE   XORTII 

Toll  rcturncMl  atiaiii  to  tlu'  Arctic  in  ISO;^,  visitin<;'  tlu^  north- 
cast  of  Jana,  for  the  ])ur])()sc  of  securing;  a  \vcll-])rcscrvc(l 
manunoth.  Afterward,  in  conipanx'  with  Lieutenant  Schil- 
eiko,  he  aj2,ain  N'isited  tlu^  Xew  Siberian  Island,  and  with  doa;- 
.sl(Ml<2;es  travelled  on  the  west  coast  of  Kotclnoi,  as  far  as  7.")^  I-J?' 
n(.)rth  latitude,  establishin.ti'  two  depots  of  provisions  for 
Xansen's  ])ossil)le  us(\  Ani(jn<2;  other  iin])ortant  results  of 
this  ex])edition  was  the  discovery  of  evidence^  that  in  the 
maninioth  ])eriods  trees  <>;rew  no  less  than  3°  north  of  their 
]iresent  limit.  Toll  i-eturned  to  tlu^  mainland  and  followed 
the  Lena,  reportin*;'  im])assal)le  tundras  from  S\iatoi  Xos  to 
Dudinka,  —  and  nnu'hcd  Yenisei>k  the  4th  of  Din-ember. 
Later  ^■eolo,i!,ical  J'csearches  wc^'e  made  on  (4i'(nit  Liachof  Islarid. 

Ixii'on  1^)11  determined  u])on  another  voya^'c  to  the  Arctic 
for  the  ])ur])()se  of  su])])lenientin';'  the  ,ti'eolo,<iical  knowled.tiX'  of 
]^)ennett  and  other  islands  and  to  com])lete  a  journey  of  ex])lor- 
ation  to  Sannikof  Land,  first  >oou  by  him  in  1S8<). 

44ic  Sari/n  was  fitted  out  for  this  ex])edition.  and  the  winter 
of  I'M)  1'.){)I  was  ])assed  in  K^  08'  north  latitude.  9.^  east 
lonL!,itud(\ 

"()n  Ajiril  LS,  DOL'Avi'ites  P)ar()n  I'oll,  "inunediately  after 
the  I'^east  of  l']aster.  Lieutenant  KolomiezolT  and  th(>  /o()lo- 
lii-t,  A.  L)ii'ulja,  set  out  with  two  >leiLi,lis  each  with  a  team  of 
eiulit  doi!.<,  the  object  of  the  first  bcinti  lo  reach  the  ^'enisei 
ami  i'<tabli<h  coaling'  station-^,  while  the  second  was  directed 
to  accompany  it  as  far  as  ( 'a])e  Sterleu'ol'.  some  200  \versts  dis- 
tant. 4"wo  days  latei'  beuan  my  exclusion  with  Lieut(Miant 
Koh-chal;  to  the  (  "helyuskin  Peniu.^ula,  accompanied  t>\'  a 
-Iciiiti  with  a  team  of  twel\'(^  doLi's  and  hulcn  as  liu-hll\'  as 
po--~il  lie. 

■'  <  'n  Mny  L  we  reached  t  hat  ]ioint  on  l  he  bay  where  we  had 
e-tabli-hed  ;i  ilepot  the  previous  yeal'  iJ'.tOO'.  4'he  pl'ox'i- 
>ion-^  ami  i\<\\  Imtc  bui'ied  wei'e  to  com])lete  our  sui)])lie-'. 
which  !  la  rely  -uhicei  1  foi'  j\iM  one  moiit  h.      l)Ut  we  Were  unable 


1)11.    inWiiK  AM)   BARON    VOX    TOLL   JOUUXLYS      411) 

to  (lit;-  out  tho  deposit  from  the  (loop  snow.  On  May  7,  we 
started  IVoni  this  i)laco  in  an  oast -northeasterly  direction, with 
the  intention  of  ])iishing  on  to  St.  Thaddeus  Bay  on  the  east 
coast  of  the  ( 'holyuskin  Peninsula,  and  retin-ning  thence  aknig 
th(>  coast.  After  traversing  the  tinidra  for  fort}'  worsts  in 
this  direction,  wo  again  came  imcx])(>ctedly  on  an  inlet,  which 
grew  narrower-  towards  tho  west-southwest,  where  it  assumed 
the  form  of  a  narrow  sotmd  or  river  mouth. 

"The  ]:)ositi()n  as  determined  by  Lieutenant  Koltschak  on  tho 
off  side  of  the  bay  was  76"  17'  X.  and  99°  29'  PI" 

On  !\lay  12,  tlie  tired  dogs  woi'o  given  a  day's  rest ;  then 
Toll  made  a  day"s  march,  lialf  a  degree  eastward,  on  Canadian 
snj)\v-shoes.  There  were  no  ])rospects  for  adding  t(j  their 
limittnl  food  supply  by  hunting,  so  it  became  necessary  to 
retrace  tluur  steps. 

'■  Hitherto,"  writes  Toll,  "we  had  to  contend  with  al;nost 
constant  difficulties  caused  by  fog,  and  deep  snow  ;ili'ead\' 
softened  by  the  sun.  But  henceforth  wo  had  to  struggle  with 
contrary'  snow-st(.)rms,  which  lasted  almost  witliout  a  Itroak 
for  fourteen  days.  The  conso(iuonc(>  was  tlio  loss  of  five  dogs, 
which  broke  down  one  aft(M'  another  throtigh  exhaustion. 
( )n  May  oO,  v/e  r(^ach,od  the  Sanja,  the  excursion  having  lasted 
forty-on(>  days.  Of  those  wo  had  to  ]oass  nine  in  the  sloo])ing- 
sack  during  tho  hercest  snow-storms;  four  were  us(>lessly 
wasted  at  t!ie  (le])ot  :  and  during  the  remaining  twenty-eight 
days  we  covei'od  .")()()  w(>rsts." 

Other  oxcui'sions  Vv-oro  made  by  members  of  the  l)ai'ty, 
with  most  gratif>'ing  results. 

The  release  of  the  Sarija  was  confident  1>'  hoped  for  early  in 
August.  "B)Ut  in  the  interim,"  writes  l^aron  ToH,  "thei'o 
was  still  to  b(>  solved  a  geogra])hical  cjuostion.  nam('l\',  to  (Jis- 
cover  tho  mout  h  of  the  Taim>-r  Ri\-('r.  Accordiim'  to  the  maps 
hitliiTto  ])ub!ished,  the  Taimyi'  was  supposed  to  di.-charge  in 
the  fir>t  or  second  of  the  larger  biuhts  l\-iiig  to  the  ea-t  of  tho 


4:20  TUK   GREAT    WHITE  yOUTll 

Taimyr  Sound.  Both  of  thcs(>  were  twice  explored  by  Lieu- 
tenant Kolonieizoff,  andinthetirst  was,  in  fact,  found  the  mouth 
of  a  considerable  stream  ;  but  its  confijiuration  was  not  at  all  in 
accordance  with  the  contour  lines  given  b}-  the  to])ograph(^r 
^^'ag(>noff  on  MidcUuidorff's  chart.  In  the  second  no  indica- 
tion could  be  detected  of  an}'  river  mouth.  As  thes(^  re- 
searches had  been  undertaken  in  winter  amid  fogs  and  sn(jw- 
drifts,  there  still  remained  a  douljt,  whicli  could  only  l)e 
removed  by  fresh  investigations  carriiMl  otit  in  clear  smnmer 
wcvither.  Should  these  also  lead  to  negative  results,  the  only 
remaining  assumption  would  b(>  that  the  Taimyr  discharg(>d 
into  that  bight  which  dtu'ing  otu"  journey  to  the  intei'ior  of 
the  Chelyuskin  P(>ninsula,  Lieutenant  Koltschak  and  I  luul 
cross(Ml,  since  no  considerabl{>  stream  assuredly  entered  that 
oth(M'  inlet  wlu^-e  the  depot  lay.'" 

The  surv(^y  of  the  fir-t  two  bays  was  undertaken  by  Birulja 
and  Dr.  "Walter,  tluMr  excursion  lasting  from  July  20  to  August 
L"),  lOOL  "Hespecting  the  ciuestion  of  the  Taimyr,  th(^  two 
savants  came  to  negative  r(\-ults.  Still  they  conhi-nuMl 
K(.)lomeizo!t"s  discovery  of  a  large  estuary  in  the  first  of  the 
two  ba^'s." 

On  tlie  2oth  of  August,  tlie  fissures  in  th(^  ice  liad  (expanded  ; 
tlie  whole  of  the  ic(>-i)ack  round  tlie  Sari/n  was  set  in  motion, 
and  -^he  drifted  in  tlu'  direction  of  tlie  cliffy  of  Station  Bland. 
Slow!}'  she  was  carri(>d  through  the  I-'ram  Strait  to  the  ojien  s(>a. 
Withdrawing  behind  a  cajx^  at  Xansen  Inland,  tlie  Sfiri/d 
await<'(l  the  di'ifting  away  of  the  ice-pack.  ( )n  August  'M), 
the  wat('r-wa>'  was  free,  and  she  began  h(M'  \'()\'age  to  Kolctnoi 
I-laiul  ;  doubling  Cajx'  ( 'helyuskin  on  Se])t;'mb(>r  \,  -he 
siLiiited,  three  days  later,  tiie  east  coast  of  the  Taimyr  Penin- 
sula, without  meet  iusi'  an\'  ice. 

"A-  we  drew  iie;ii\"'  writes  Toll,  "to  the  Xew  Sibei'ian 
.'irehipelaLin  in  f;i\-()i-ab!e  weather  till  September  7th,  a  strong 
souihea-ter    began  to    Mow  in  our  teeth,  and  auain-^t    this  we 


sill   MARTI  \   COX  WAV  -421 

made  very  ^^low  lietuhvay.  I,  therefore,  changed  the  cours(^ 
to  the  northc^ast.  On  Sc^pteniljer  9th  wc  reached  the  edge  of 
tlie  ])ack-icc  in  77°  9'  X.,  and  14°  E.  Here  we  encountered 
a  soutliern  gale,  which,  acting  in  concert  with  the  marine 
curi'ent,  (h'ove  the  Sarija  30  miles  to  the  northwest.  The 
storm  veered  round  to  the  west-southwest,  and  I  thought 
it  l)(>tter  again  to  make  the  most  of  tlie  wind  and  now  direct  our 
course  southeastwards  for  Bennett  Island,  instead  of  trying 
\md(>r  these  circumstances  to  penetrate  into  the  ice  in  search 
of  land.  On  Septc^nber  lltli  the  imposing  headland  of  Cape 
Emma  at  Benru^tt  Island  suddenly  loomed  up  b(^fore  us  out 
of  the  fog,  and  presently  became  again  wrapped  in  fog. 

"We  had  approached  to  within  12  knots  of  the  island, 
when  our  further  advance  towards  it  was  barred  In'  a  belt 
foui'teen  feet  thick  of  impenetrable  ice.  Here  we  remained 
two  days  in  the  hope  that  the  ice  might  shift,  l)ut  in  vain  !" 

Disa])]:)()inte(l  in  his  ho]:)es  of  reachmg  Sannikof  Land  in 
1902,  Baron  Toll  succeeded  in  sheltering  the  Sarya  for  a 
second  winter  at  Xer])ichi  Bay,  Kotelnoi  Island,  75°  22'  X., 
lo7°  16'  E.  The  sad  disaster  which  overtook  the  brave 
scientists  ends  a  chapter  valual)le  to  Arctic  achievement. 

On  June  7,  1902,  Baron  Toll,  accompanied  l;)y  Seeberg, 
the  astronomer,  and  two  hunters,  left  for  a  geological  excursion, 
and  after  arduous  efforts  landed  on  Bennett  Island,  August  3, 
^v]li(•ll  w;is  found  to  l)e  a  plateau  som(,^  fifteen  hundred  feet  in 
heiglit.  Tlu'ir  researches  disclosed  Cambrian  deposits.  — 
They  k^ft  the  island  to  return  to  the  ship  on  X^ovember  8,  1902, 
and  Aver(^  never  seen  again.  Brunsnc^ff  and  Koltshak,  in  a  relief 
exp(^(lition  in  1904,  discovered  a  record  containing  the  informa- 
tion just  statcnl,  but  no  otlier  traces  were  found  of  these  coura- 
geous men  who  sacrificcMl  their  lives  in  the  cause  of  science. 

Anoth(M'  sc(^n(^  of  activity  was  ('(mtrtnl  in  S])itzl)ergen, 
for  crossing  wliiclt  in  1S9G  Sir  Martin  Conway  and  ])arty  re- 
ceiv(^d   th(^   a])plause  of  the   world.     The   following  y(>ar   he 


422  THE   GREAT    WHITE  XORTII 

a<j;aiii  returned  to  continue  his  explorations.  Dr.  A.  G. 
Xahorst  circunniaviiiated  S])itzl)ergen  in  1898,  surveying- and 
nia])pin,ii'  the  irre,<j;ular  coast-line  with  admirable  precision. 
The  same  yc^ar,  Professor  J.  H.  Gore  of  the  United  States 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  made  pendulum  observations  in 
S])itzber,<i'en  for  tlie  determination  of  the  force  of  gravity  in 
that  latitude.  Prince  Albert  of  Monaco  and  party  cruised 
along  the  coast  for  the  ])urpose  of  making  scientific  observa- 
tions. So  active  had  been  th(>  inter(\>t  in  this  hitherto  im- 
claimed  archipelago  that  Russia  began  to  assert  her  riglits  to 
ownersliip. 

The  most  tmique  venture  for  ])olar  lionours  was  undertaken 
in  1897  l)y  Salamon  August  An<lree,  a  Swede,  and  two  com- 
])anions,  Mr.  Strindberg  and  Air.  Traenkel,  from  Dane 
Island  north  of  Si)itzbergen.  Andree  was  an  ardent  apostle 
of  aerial  con(}U(\-t  of  the  North  Pole.  His  l)alloon,  the 
0/-//C7/,  had  a  cubical  contents  of  forty-fi\'e  hundred  metres, 
and  the  shajx'  (jf  a  s])her(>  ternnnating  in  a  slightly  conical 
a])])endage.  Tlu^  envelope  was  made  of  six  liundred  ])ieces  of 
])oiigee  silk,  each  Ijeing  from  seventeen  Xo  eightet'ii  metres 
long  by  al)out  forty-eight  cenlimelres  wide;  these  ^\'er(^ 
sewn  together  by  machine,  then  subjected  to  a  ])roces<  of 
"cementing""  \\\i\\  a  sj^ecial  \'arni,-h.  A  carefully  niaile  net 
c()mi)o<ed  (if  hemp  cords  encom])asse(l  the  envel()])e.  S])ecial 
\'al\'f-  wei'e  (le\-i>('d  by  Andi'ce.  The  cai'  was  of  cane  basket- 
work.  m()Uiite(l  on  a  frame  of  chestmit  wood,  the  bottom  being 
-t  reiiiit  heneil  l)y  wooden  cross-beams,  the  whole  c(jvered  with 
tar])aulin,  with  riecessai'}'  o])enings. 

l'ro\"i-ioned  w\\\\  tins  (ji' ])t'e-e!'\'ed  food.  —  cliocolafe,  com- 
jirc-.-ed  bi'ead,  condensed  milk.  cham])agn('.  claret,  butter, 
fre-h  ^\';^ler.  and  alcohol,  besides  a  cooking  a])i)aratus.  and 
olh('i'  nec('->ary  e(jui])nient .  —  this  frail  craft  made  its  ascen- 
.-ion  with  il-  liiHniiii  fi'eiu'ht.  .bil\'  11.  ls*.>7. 

"Tii('  la-t    farewells  are  lirief  and  touchinu','"  writes   Alexis 


A.XDUEE'S  balloon   EXPELrnON    TO    THE  POLE       428 

Macliuron.  *'Fo\v  words  are  exchanged,  but  hearty  hand- 
(•his])s  betwec^n  those  whose  liearts  are  in  sympathy  say  more 
than  words.  Suddenly  Anch'ee  snatches  himself  away  from 
the  embraces  of  liis  friends  and  takes  his  place  on  the  wicker 
bi-idu'e  of  the  car,  from  whence  he  calls  in  a  firm  voice  :  — 

""Strindberg  .  .  .  Franaenkel  .  .  .  Let    us    <2;o!' 

"His  two  companions  at  once  take  their  places  beside  him. 
Each  is  armed  with  a  knife  for  cutting  the  ropes  supporting  the 
grou])s  of  ballast  bags.  .  .  .  Andree  is  always  calm,  cold, 
and  impassable ;  not  a  trace  of  emotion  is  visible,  noth- 
ing but  an  expression  of  firm  resolution  and  an  indomitabk? 
will.  He  is  just  the  man  for  such  an  enterprise,  and  he  is 
well  seconded  by  his  two  companions.  At  length  the  d(>cisiv(^ 
moment  arrives  :  'One!  Two!  Cut!'  cries  Andree  in  Swedish. 
Tlie  three  sailors  obey  the  order  sinuiltaneously.  and  in  one 
s(^cond  tlu^  aerial  shij),  free  and  unfettered,  rises  majestically 
into  s])ace,  saluted  by  our  heartiest  cheers.  .  .  .  Scattered 
along  the  shore,  we  stand  motionless,  with  full  liearts  and  anx- 
ious eyes,  gazing  at  th(>  silent  liorizon.  For  some  moments, 
then,  between  two  hills  v/(^  ])erceive  a  gray  s])eck  over  the  sea, 
very.  v(M'y,  far  away,  and  tluni  it  finally  disap])ears. 

"The  way  to  the  Pole  is  clear,  no  more  obstacles  to  en- 
coun.ter  —  the  sea,  the  ice-fields,  and  tlie  Unknown  !" 

'  )ut  of  the  ( Ireat  White  North  came  a  l(jne  survivor,  a  cai'rier- 
))igeon,  bringing  the  tidings  writt(Mi  "July  l^-Jth,  12:30  p.m., 
82^  2'  north  latitude,  15^  o'  east  longitude.  (Jood  journey 
fastward,  10''  south.  .\11  goes  well  on  board.  Tliis  is  the 
fourth  message  sent  by  pigeon. 

"  AxDRf:!-]." 

Ah  i  but  ;dl  did  not  go  well.  In  .tune.  bSO!»,  a  buoy  contain- 
ing a  n(»t<^  from  Andree  was  found  in  Xoi'way  ;  it  had  Ihm'ii 
thrown  out  eiulit  h.ours  after  dej)artur(\ 

Tlie  ■■  North  Pole  buoy""  to  be  dropped  when  the  Pole  was 


4:24  Tin:  a  heat  white  sortii 

passed,  was  found  ( mptij  in  Sci^tcnibcr,  ISO!),  on  the  north  side 
of  Kin^j;  ( 'liarles  I.-land.  A  third  l)Uoy,  also  empty,  was  ]>icked 
U])  on  the  west  coast  of  Icehmd,  July  17,  11)00,  and  another 
reporleil  from  Norway,  Aujj;ust  ol,  1000,  eontaineil  a  note 
statin.ii  that  the  huoy  was  thrown  out  at  10  f.M.,  July  11,  1S97, 
at  an  altitude  of  eii2;ht  hinidred  and  twenty  feet,  m(n'in<i'  north 
45  E.  Thus  the  earrier-{)i,<i;eon  was  the  last  messen,u'er — the 
harl)in<i:er  of  Andree's  last  word  to  friends  on  earth  :  the  fate 
of  the  three  brave  spirits  lies  buried  in  the  Arctic  silence. 

Theodor  Lerner  was  (jne  of  the  first  to  hurry  to  S])itzl)er,o;en 
in  1898  leadin.<2;  the  (iermaji  scientific  ex])edition,  to  obtain 
news  from  Andrc'n-,  if  ])os>ible,  and  the  same  year  the  Swetlish 
Anlhroi)oloiiical  and  (leo^si'raphical  Society  sent  J.  Stadlin,<i;, 
with  com])anions,  to  the  Lena  delta,  the  mouth  of  tlie  Yenisei 
and  the  islands  of  Xew  Siberia,  wher(>  they  searched  in  vain 
for  traces  of  their  missini!,-  comj)atriot>.  Au'ain,  in  1800, 
Dr.  A.  (b  Xathorst  tiumed  his  attention  to  ea>tern  (Ireenland 
in  an  imsuccessful  searcli  h)r  tidiii<is  of  Andree.  makintivalu- 
al)le  ma]i-<  and  observations  of  the  iiord  system  of  Kinu; 
( )scar  Fiord.  Xor  did  (';i])tain  Hadf  in  his  ex])lorat ions  in 
East  S])itzb(>r,u'en.  Kim;- ( 'harles  Land,  and  I'"ranz  Josef  Land 
in  1000  find  any  traces  of  the  nH--inu'  ai'i'onaut. 

In  the  }'ear  1801  A\'alter  ^^'ellman.  an  American,  made 
S])itzberii'('n  the  ba-c  of  his  acti\-itic>  in  an  al1cmi)t  to  pene- 
ti-at<'  the  Polar  i)ack  and  reach  the  Xortli  !'>  le.  Sailiiui' in 
the  liaijiirdlil  Jarl,  \iv  had  lh(>  mi-fortune  to  lo-e  hi^  ship 
off  W'alden  Island:  imdauntcd  by  this  u'l'ax'e  di<a<tcr,  he 
pu<hcd  north  with  slcdii-e<  a-  I'ar  as  S] ",  but  had  to  rcti'acc  his 
-tep-.  ( iwiim'  1  o  the  impcnct  rablc  condit  ion  of  t  he  ice.  lb-  had. 
howc\-cr,  rcacheil  a  point  east  of  Platen  Island.  W'ellman 
a'j,';iiii  endea\'oui'e(l  to  coiKjuei-  the  ice  in  18'.IN,  thi-  time  i-hoo<- 

illLi  for  hi-  b;|-e   FraUZ  .lo-ef  Land.        lie  Wa-  liliel'all.X'  line(l  out. 

and  aeciinipMnie(  1,  aiiioML;,'  ot  liiT-.  by  fbelyn  lb  1  Baldwin  of  the 
bniied    State.<    W'eathei'    P)U,"eau.      .Ml'.     W'ellman    made    his 


]\-KLLMAX\S   I'LAX    TO   llEACIl  NORTH  POLE        425 

h(':i(l(iiuirtors  at  "Harnisworth  House/'  at  Capo  Tcsctthoff,  for 
three  years  \\\v  Arctie  home  of  Frederick  A.  Jackson  and 
his  coiirpanions. 

In  February,  FS99,  Mr.  W(>lhnan,  with  three  companions, 
started  for  tlie  Pok'  with  vxvvy  promise  of  success.  An 
miforeseen  accicknit  to  Mr.  Wellman,  and  an  upheaval  in  the 
ice,  \\"hich  (k'stroyed  many  (kj<i;s  and  nnich  (jf  tlieir  erjuip- 
ment,  necessitated  a  hurried  return  to  heackiuarters.  Disap- 
]^()inte(k  l)ut  not  discouraged,  Welhnan  organized  a  series  of 
im])ortant  scientific  observations  and  expkjrations,  (kn-ing 
wliick  Evelyn  Baldwin,  in  a  long  sledge  journey  to  Wilczek 
Land,  determined  its  east(^rn  boundary,  and  discovered,  among 
otlier  islands  to  th(^  northeast,  ( Graham  Bell  Laud. 

To  tkat  daring  and  adventurous  prince,  H.  R.  H.  Luigi 
Amedeo  of  Savoy,  tlie  duke  of  the  Aljruzzi,  is  due  one  of  the 
most  interesting  chajiters  in  Arctic  histor\'.  There  is  chai'ni 
in  the  graceful  dedication  of  l)is  book,  "To  Her  Majesty  the 
Quei-n-Mothei',"'  as  well  as  in  his  gallant  tribute^  to  his  bravf^ 
companion^  who  won  laur(ds  under  liis  direction  and  fought 
gallantly  the  (kmgers  of  the  Arctic  under  his  banner.  '"'Ital- 
ians and  Norwegians  behaved  throughout  this  voyage  as 
though  the  crew  wer(>  com])osed  of  one  natioiudity,"  he 
-ays.  "I  had  comrades  with  me.  rather  than  subordinates. 
I  e\i)!'ess,  therefon\  my  gratitude-  towards  all.  since  to  theii- 
harmonious  co(")])eration  is  due  the  success  of  my  e.\]i(Mlition, 
■AivA  I  ex])res>  the  same  gratitude  to  th(^  nunnor}-  of  the  thre(^ 
bi'a\'e  men  who  ]:)erished  whilst  on  tlie  sledge  exjx'dition." 

Th(>  Ja-^ofi,  ha\-ing  a  carrying  ca])acity  of  five  hundrenl  and 
se\"('nty  tons  cargo,  was  ])urchase(l  l)y  the  Duke,  rimamed 
thr  Sti  lln  Poljrrc:  refitted,  (>f|ui])])e(l,  ]:)r()visi()ne(l,  and  mamie(l 
foi'  four  years,  at  a  total  cost  of  thii'ty-eight  thousand  four 
hundrc(l  and  thirteen  ])oimds  sterhnu'. 

Second  in  comman*!  to  tlie  ])uk(>  of  Abi'uzzi,  wh(»,  by  the 
wa\'.  \v:ts  but  tW(>nt\'-six  M'ars  old  at  the  time  of  his  adventure 


4 1^1") 


THE   (iUEAT    WHITE  NORTH 


was  ('a])tain  rnihcrto  ( 'a,u;ni  of  the  Italian  Navy,  in  chargo 
of  the  sc'icutific  ohscrvalions.  OtluT  ofHcors  of  the  Xavy  w(>ro 
Li(ait(Miaut  Francesco  (^ucrini,  in  charu;c  of  \\\v  niin('ralo<;ical 
colled  ions,  and  Dr.  Achille  ( '.  Molinelli,  medical  officer,  also 
in  cliar<;(>  of  the  zoological  and  botanical  collections.  Four 
other  officers,  a  crew  of  twelve,  and  foui- esi)ecially  experienced 
guides  completed  th(^  jiersonnel  of  the  ex])edition. 

I'nder  tlu^  })ersonal  ad\'ice  and  superintendence^  of  l^i'. 
Nans(Mi,  who  aid(Ml  in  e\-ery  possible  way  \\iv  success  of  the 
(^xi)edition,  a  cari^fully  thought  out  plan  was  mad(^,  by  which 
the  Stella  Polarc  was  to  lea\"e  Ai'chaiigel,  early  in  July,  make 
foi'  Cape  Mora  and  Xorlhbook  Island,  {\stablish  a  dejx)! 
provisioned  for  eight  months,  then  proceed,  take  uj)  winter 
(juarters  as  far  north  as  ]i()ssibl(\  close  to  tli(^  lands  lying  west 
of  I'Vanz  .Josef  Land.  Sledge  journeys  in  the  autunui  would 
establish  a  cliain  of  ])]'()\'isi()n  cach(\s  on  the  lands  to  the  iiortli, 
and  in  \]\v  s])ring  a  sledge  jom'uey  lo  the  noi'th  for  a  woi'ld 
record  would  be  und{>rtak(Mi.  A  I'dreat  to  the  depot  at  ( 'a])e 
]'"lora  with  or  without  the  shi])  would  insure  subsistence^  until 
the  ari'ival  of  a  relief  shi])  to  b(>  sent  in  two  }'ears,  or,  if  the 
relief  shi])  fail(>d,  a  I'cti-eat  to  Xo\-a  Zembla  or  Siiitzbergen 
would   i)e  undertaken  by  boats. 

On  June  :!(),  1S',)9,  the  Sti  l!a  Pnhrrc  reacluMl  Archangel, 
where  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  dog<  A\'ei'e  t;iken  aboard 
to  be  used  in  the  sledge  journex's.  ( )n  tlie  12th  of  Jul\',  sh(> 
weighed  niiclior  and  pi'oceeded  on  hei'  x'oyage.  ice  was  en- 
couiitei'ed,  Jul\'  17,  and  three  da\'slatei-  Xoi'thlirook  Island 
was  sighted,  ;nid  a  visit  made  to  Jackson's  huts  and  Leigh 
Smith's  winter  ((uai'tei's. 

'i'he  Sicili!  /'dlarc  bra  \'el\' fought  her  way  t  hi'ough  unfaxnui'- 
able  ice  conditions  and  succeeded  in  I'eaching  N2  Ol'  X., 
.")!»'  ]■;.  !iy  the  liriti-h  (  ■hannel.  Securing  an  aiH-hoi-age  in 
Teplit/  i'>ay.  Prince  liudulf  Land.  <he  i'ccci\-ed  a  di-a-ti'ous 
nip.    Se|)teiiib('r   7,  when   she   s|)rang   :i   l<'ai<.  and    il    b(>came 


ITALIAN  EXPEBITION    UNDER   DUKE  OF  ABRUZZI    427 

necessary  to  disembark  her  ]:)rovisioiis  and  establish  winter 
(juarters  on  Rudolf  Island. 

"As  our  ship,  which  we  had  abandoned  after  it  had  been 
s(mz(hI  by  the  ic(^,"  writes  the  Duke  of  Abruzzi,  "was  the  only 
means  of  our  returning  home  in  the  following  year,  we  had  to 
consider  how  to  save  her.  Part  of  the  engines,  the  condenser, 
and  the  furnaces  were  under  water,  which  had  frozen  to  a 
thickness  of  about  nineteen  inches.  The  ship  had  not 
changed  her  position,  but  had  heeled  over  still  more  as  the 
ice  which  had  sup]:)orte(l  her  had  given  way. 

"The  water  had  first  to  be  pumped  out  of  the  ship  to  enable 
us  to  find  the  leak  on  the  left  side,  and  this  had  to  be  mended 
as  well  as  that  which  was  visible  on  the  right  side  ;  we  had 
then  to  see  if  it  would  be  possible  to  keep  the  ship  dry,  and 
if  not,  to  ]:!rotect  the  engines  so  that  they  might  remain  under 
water  during  the  winter  without  being  injured.  Such  was  the 
work  l)efore  us.  At  that  time  I  did  not  believe  it  possible, 
but  Captain  Cagni  never  despaired  for  a  moment  of  being 
able  to  carry  it  out,  and  if  it  was  accomplished,  it  was  owing 
to  his  strong  will  and  to  liis  perseverance,  which  was  nt^ver 
discouraged  by  any  difficulties." 

Early  in  tlu^  winter,  tlie  Duke  of  Abruzzi,  in  one  of  his 
sledge  excursions,  had  the  misfortune  to  freeze  a  part  of  his 
left  hand,  which  resulted  in  the  loss  of  the  joints  of  two  of  his 
fnigei's.  This  unfortunate  accident  prevented  his  accompany- 
ing tlie  s])ring  sledge  journey  to  the  north,  for  which  active 
])i-e])arations  were  alr(^ady  in  progress.  The  sledges  and  kay- 
aks were  ])atterned  after  those  used  by  Dr.  Xans(m  ;  the  for- 
mer ele\'en  feet  fiv(>  inches  long,  six  inches  wide,  and  six  and 
ouc-lialf  inches  high,  with  convex  runnc^rs  shod  with  ])lates  of 
white  metal,  and  were  saturated  with  a  mixture  of  pitch, 
sTcarine,  and  tallow  to  render  them  more  slii~)])ery  and  durable. 

Aft(M'  careful  calculations  by  Dr.  ]\Iolinelli,  the  rations  to 
})e   carried   were    estimated   at     two   pounds   twelve  ounces 


4-2b 


THE   a  RE  AT    WHITE  SOUTH 


nine  drums  yiov  day  for  each  man,  consist iiifr  of  biscuit, 
tinned  meat,  ])cnnnican,  butter,  milk,  Liel)i<i;"s  Extract, 
doiccated  \'e(!,('tal)les,  Italian  paste,  suji,ar,  coffee,  tea,  choco- 
late, etc. 

The  first  start  was  made  in  Feln'uary,  l)ut  after  travelhng 
in  tlie  extreme  cold  for  several  day>,  tlie  i)arty  returned  and 
made  a  fre-h  start,  March  11.  The  ex])e(Ution  was  com]X)sed 
of  ten  men  and  thirteen  sledo(.<.  wliich,  with  tlieir  loads, 
wei^uhed  five  hundred  and  fift\'-one  ptjunds  each,  and  was 
drawn  by  one  hundredi  and  two  dogs. 

It  had  been  ])revi{jusly  settled  \o  send  back  detachments, 
after  twelve,  twenty-f(jur,  and  thirty-<ix  d^a}':-  ;  the  last  de- 
taclnnent  to  remain  in  tlie  field  seventy-two  days.  C'afi'ni, 
howe\-er.  modifi(-d  tliese  ])lans,  and  in  the  meantime  the  DulvC 
(jf  Abruzzi  anxiou>l\'  \\"aited  the  I'eturn  of  the  first  detachment. 
On  A])ril  bS,  the  second  detaclnnent  retui'netl  Xo  camp;  they 
had  left  (  'onunander  ('agin,  Alarcli  'M .  The  first  detachment, 
consi-tinu'  of  Lieutenant  (^ueriui,  St()kken,  and  Oilier,  had 
stai'tecl  to  return  March  2o.  An  innne(liat(-  search  was  in- 
stituted for  the  mi>-ing-  men.  l)Ut  without  results.  After 
e\"ery  eff(jrt  had  Iicen  ex])ended,  the  thrc'  men  were  given  u]) 
for  lo-t.  Meantime,  the  other  su])])on  inu;  parties  having 
returned,  anxiety  was  beginning  to  marnf(->t  il-^elf  for  Cagiu. 
Idic  da\'  M'1  for  his  returrj  had  come  and  u'one.  ( )n  May  H), 
Dr.  Molinejli  and  two  com])anion>  hail  set  out  for  ( 'a])e 
ITi'ivly,  with  i)ro\'i-ion-  for  ten  day.<.  to  look  for  him.  Th(> 
Oukc  of  Abi-uz/i  anxiously  scanned  the  horizon  with  hi-  telc- 
-f-n|)c  f(ir  -iu'n-  of  lii-  mi->iug  comijanion-.  Afti-r  an  ai)-cne;' 
of  one  huiKJi'ed  ainl  four  da>'s,  ( 'a]) tain  ( 'au'ui,  wit  h  t  lu-ee  ci)iii- 
lumioii-,  ha\"iiiLi.'  madi'  a  world  record  and  reached  -S'i^  '-W . 
w-i-  -milled  in  the  di-tanee  and  welcomed  home  b\-  his  iui- 
j)a_tieiit    and  ent  [ni-ia-f  ie  eom[)anion-. 

"Ahhouuti  tlieii'  -trenuth  had  be(-ii  much  I'eiluced."'  writf'S 
Abnizzi,  "bx"  waul  of  .-ulhcient  food,  t  he\' wei'e  not  exhau,-te(I. 


LOSS    OF  THE  ''  STELLA    POLAUE''  429 

The  seven  clogs  which  survived  seemed  much  worsc^ ;  some  of 
them  wi^re  merely  skin  and  l)one.  The  only  part  of  their  out- 
fit they  had  Ijrought  back  that  was  still  capable  of  being  of 
any  use,  was  their  tent,  and  this  had  been  mended.  The  frame- 
work of  the  kayaks  had  been  broken  and  their  canvas  torn,  so 
that  th(\y  could  not  be  used  unless  a  week  was  spent  in  mend- 
ing tluun.  The  sledges  which  remained  had  been  mended 
with  pieces  of  other  sledges.  All  that  was  left  of  their  cooking 
utensils  was  the  outer  covering  of  the  stove,  a  saucepan  which 
had  been  mended,  and  the  plates.  The  Prinms  lamp  had  been 
re])laced  by  a  pot,  in  which  dog's  grease  had  been  burned  for 
th(>  last  few  weeks.  The  sleeping-bag  had  been  thrown  away, 
and  only  the  thick  canvas  lining  kept.  Their  clothes  were  in 
rags." 

Cagni  had  advanc(Hl  under  the  same  tr\'ing  conditions  of 
hummocky  ice,  slush,  and  deep  snow  that  had  l)een  encount(n"ed 
l\v  Xansen  ;  he  had  had  the  misfortune^  to  freeze  one  of  his 
fingers,  and  suffercnl  excruciating  pain,  necessitating  his 
o]ierating  with  his  own  hand  and  removing  the  cU^ad  mass  with 
a  pair  of  scissors.  He  had  steadily  advanced  until  A])ril  25, 
1900. 

His  return  journey  covered  sixty  days  under  the  most 
alarming  conditions  ;  for  on  Ma}'  18,  he  writes:  "I  feel  more 
and  more  every  day  a  terrible^  anxiety  with  regard  to  our  fate. 
After  marching  nine  days  toward  the  southeast,  we  are  nearly 
on  the  same  meridian,"  owing  to  tlie  southwest  drift  of  the 
ic(^-])ack.  Fom-  W(M^ks  more  of  almost  su})(^i'human  effort 
l)rought  them  to  Harly  Island,  from  which  ))oint  they  made 
tliinr  way  to  Kudolf  Island. 

AMth  the  acliievement  of  this  brilliant  record  it  now  r(^- 
malned  but  to  free  the  Stella  Pohtrc  by  blasting  and  cutting 
chann(4s  about  lun' snug  fiuarters.  Th(>  bi'icf  Arctic  summer 
ha\-ing  s(^t  in,  her  delivcM'ance  at  last  was  s(M'ured,  and  "At 
half-])ast    one  in   the  morning  of  August   IG,  everytiiing  was 


•ioO  THE   GIIEAT    WHITE  ^sORTlL 

ready,  ami  we  steamed  slowly  away  from  the  sliore,  giving 
tliree  cheers  a.>  we  turned  round  the  ice  of  the  bay  which  had 
held  us  >o  long  im])risoned."' 

In  ('(jntrast  to  the  Italian  ex])edition,  the  Baldwin-Ziegler 
Polar  expedition,  which  sailed  fr(jm  Ti'om^oe,  X(jrwa\',  July 
17,  l!)f)(j.  ^tands  out  conspicuously.  Mr.  Baldwin  was  born 
in  Springfield,  Missouri,  in  1802.  lie  had  >een  Arctic  .-er\-ice 
with  the  Peary  expediti(jn  of  l89o-liS!M,  and  had  come  near 
being  one  of  the  ill-fated  Andree  Ijalloon  part}'.  He  had  dc^ne 
good  service  with  W'ellman  in  Franz  Jo.-ef  Land,  and  ]io\v 
witli  the  unlimited  means  put  at  his  disposal  by  the  munih- 
cence  of  Mr.  \\'illiam  Ziegler  of  Xew  York,  he  pr(jpo.sed  to 
conriuer  the  Pole. 

"  t  )nr  fleet,"  wrote  Mr.  Baldwin  in  McCl'irc's  Mnynzi/K, 
Se])tenil)er,  1001,  "  com])rises  three  \-essels.  Tlio  America,  our 
fiag>hi]),  as  some  on('  lias  (>x])re>sed  it,  is  a  three-masted  ship- 
i'ion(.,i  >te;tm(M'  of  40()  ton-  net  bui'dcn,  dri\'i!iL;,'  a  sinu'le  -cri'W. 
Her  length  (jv(>r  all  is  b")7  feet  ;  be:uii.  27  feel  ;  dejnh,  10 
feet.  .  .  .  Tlie  Fr/tf/Kif  is  a  Xorweiiian  sj.ilinu'-ve.-sel,  .  .  . 
the  third  vessel  is  the  lichjin,  which  carried  the  P^'luian  Antarc- 
tic exj)ediiion  of  1 S07    fsOO.  undiT  ('apiain   r.crlache." 

>,e\-er  Ix'fore  in  the  history  of  Polar  exix"!!;  ii  m-  was  foml 
and  e'|uii)ment  carrieil  in  >uch  luxurin!i-  ])r(M'u-ion.  The 
three  ve^-ej-  \vere  as  many  fh.iatinu'  hold-  with  larders  lacking 
"  not  liiiiii,'  that  tore.-iiiht,  ex])erience,  ;uid  the  uviiercxity  of 
Mr.  Zii'ii'li'r  conld  -ui:-'j.-i-<t  or  i)rocure."' 

I!ic  -ciciitific  e(|iiipiiie!it  wa-  al-o  complete,  incjudini: 
.-mall  baljiion-  with  relea-inu'  di'\"ice,<  foi'  dejxi-itiim'  record-^ 
\\'!ii-ti  ihi'  Ufound  w;i-  I'l^ai'hed,  liiioy-  with  recofib  io  be  sent 
ilo.'iliim'  back  Id  ci\-i!izalion  by  the  currents,  -carch-liLilit.-  and 
wiri'lf'.--  tdi-irrapli.  bc-idf<  ti|(.  -i.aiidard  scient  ihc  iii-i  rumenis 
t'lr  mctcori  i!r,mc;,!.  a-' I'Miiomicab  ati'l  ^vdilrt  ic  wdrk.  There 
vN'-rc  iliiv,'  tiundri'd  ;iiid  twenty  dou-.  and  fit'leen  ponie.-  in 
char,^"''  u\  A\  cxix'i-t    I{ii--i,aii  ih'i\'i'r-. 


BALDWIN  ZIEGLER    EXPEDITION    OF   IMOO  431 

"The  ])re5;cnt  expedition,"  wrote  Air.  Baldwin,  ''typifies 
the  spirit  of  the  twentietli  century;"  and  he  add.s,  "Xo 
prevloQrf  expedition  to  the  north  has  ever  made  such  com])l(,'te 
arrangements  for  the  transmission  of  news  baclv  to  civilization 
as  that  which  I  have  the  honor  to  command." 

"The  America  and  the  FrithioJ  left  Tromsoe,  Norway,  in 
July,  1901,  for  Franz  Josef  Land,  which  lialdwin  regarded  as 
the  best  starting-point  for  a  polar  venture,"  writes  Mr.  P.  F. 
]\FGrath  in  the  Reuiew  of  Reviews,  July,  1905,  "])roceeding  to 
Alger  Island,  in  latitude  80°  24'  north,  longitude  o'f  52''  east, 
where  he  estaijlisluHi  his  winter  Cjuarters.  The  FrithioJ 
imloaded  her  stores  and  proceeded  south,  leaving  the  Atnerica 
harlxjred,  with  the  dogs  and  ecjuipment  ashore,  portable 
lujuses  erected,  and  detail  of  duties  being  carried  out.  The 
I)ersounel  comprised  42  souls,  —  17  Americans,  G  Hussians, 
and  19  shipmcn,  mostly  Norwegians.  Game  was  j)lentiful, 
and  several  tons  of  bear  and  walrus  meat  were  accunmlated, 
the  former  for  the  men  and  the  latter  for  the  dogs.  With  this 
])ase  beyond  the  eightieth  parallel,  Baldwin  intended  to  push 
forward  with  his  ^\\\\),  or  over  the  ice,  ex]')loring  the  adjacent 
i'(>gio!i  for  uncharted  land  mass(>s  which  would  supply  station- 
ary ])oints,  insiu'ing  him  against  the  disadvantages  of  an  ad- 
vance' across  tlu^  shifting  ice,  and  from  the  farthest  north  (.)f 
tliese  he  would,  the  next  s])ring.  make  his  dash  across  tlu^ 
crystal  fields  for  the  Pole.  In  this  lu>  would  enijiloy  alxjut 
twenty-five  men  as  a  vanguard  and  reserve,  the  H\'ing  colunm 
])usliiiio;  ra])idly  ahead,  and  the  transport  train  following  with 
th(^  licavi(-r  su]i]4ies.  Numerically,  the  party  would  be  strong 
enough  to  overcome  otherwise  s(>rious  obstacles,  while  the 
f]Uantity  of  su])])li(>s  to  be  carried  l)y  820  dogs  and  1 ")  ])oni('s 
would  ])ut  th(^  ]-)()ssil)ili1y  of  disaster  almost  out  of  the  question. 
.  .  .  With  thi<  elaborate^  progrannne.  and  the  knowledge  that 
the  Duke  of  Abruzzi.  witli  a  much  smallei'  part\',  attained  a 
northing  of  80'  oo',  Baldwin  confidenll\'  anticipatetl  making  the 


4B2  TIIH   CHEAT    WHITE   yOItTlI 

Pok'.  And,  iih  ill  that  .segment  of  the  Arctic  C.'ircle  lie  miglit 
find  liiinseii',  in  rettirning,  obliged  by  ice  und  currents  to  head 
for  the  (ireenland  coast,  which  reaches  to  83°  27',  or  ISO 
miles  nearer  the  Pole  than  his  base,  he  planned  that  if  he 
should  be  swerved  westward  by  the  tides,  it  would  b(^  easier 
to  reach  that  shore.  There  he  would  find  musk-oxen  to  eke 
out  his  sui)j)lies,  and  journey  down  the  east  coast  to  where 
the  depot  was  made  by  the  Belyica  for  him.  But,  as  often 
happens  in  Polar  work,  Baldwin's  hoi)es  were  blasted,  dissen- 
sions rent  his  ])arty  asimder,  his  dogs  ])erishcd  by  the  score, 
and  after  a  futile  att(,'mpt  to  get  uoi'th,  he  and  his  whole 
party  returned  to  Tromsoe  in  Atigust,  11)02,  while  the  Frithiof, 
which  had  sailed  for  Alger  Island  a  month  ])reviotis  with  addi- 
tional (jutfits  and  for  news  of  him,  had  to  retreat,  owing  to  the 
imbroken  ice-pack." 

The  relurn  of  the  Baldwin-Ziegler  ex]:iedition  in  the  auttmm 
of  1002  was  followcMl  by  that  reorganized  by  Air.  Ziegler  and 
given  to  the  leadership  of  ]\Ir.  Anthony  Piala  of  Brooklyn, 
Xew  Yorl;,  to  be  carried  out  on  ])ractically  the  same  lines  laid 
out  by  Mr.  ]^)aldwin. 

r'ai)t:iin  l^dwin  Coffin,  of  Edgartown,  ?^Iassacliusetts.  was 
clio-eii  as  n:ivigating  officer,  and  he  assembled  an  American 
crew,  most  of  tluMii  exi)eri(Miced  whalers.  Of  the  Field  StalT, 
:\Ir.  ^^'iHiamJ.  Peters,  of  the  ( leological  Survey  and  represent- 
ing the  Xational  (leograjihic  Society,  was  chosen  as  chief 
scieiiti-t  and  second  in  command  of  the  (>\i)edit ion.  The 
results  of  \\\<  -yslematlc  records  and  magnetical  obser\-at ions, 
when  in  ihc  north,  were  of  the  highest  value,  and  he  rendered 
most  ediriciit  ser\-ice. 

Afler  rollccting  stores  and  e(iuii)ment,  the  .l///r/-/(Y/  saihd 
from  Trondhjcm.  Xorw;iy,  June  2:',,  100:5.  Brief  slop^  weiv 
iii;idc  at  llic  i-l;iiid  of  Troim')  .Mnd  Archangrl.  where  dogs. 
])(iiiii-,  .•iiid  .-iddi'lonal  stoics  were  taken  aboard.  The  ice 
A\-a>  tir-t    met,  July  b!,  in  71'  ol'  north  latitude,  iW^  '-M'  east 


.4  '■ 

'■^t 

1 

:;  f,- 

■w 

s, 

i 

:A' ' 

% 

;:u 

RETriiN    OF  EXPEDITION   IS  AUTUMN  433 

lono-itvide,  through  which  the  America  steamed  and  blasted 
her  way  to  Cape  Flora,  which  was  reached  August  12.  A 
few  days  later  Triplitz  Bay  was  passed,  with  the  "skeleton- 
like remains  of  tlu^  framework  of  the  tent  where  lived  the 
brave  Abruzzi  and  his  com]:)anions,  standing  out  in  plain  view." 
The  America  made  the  highest  northing  of  a  ship  under 
steam  in  the  Western  Hemisphere,  and  reached  a  point,  82° 
north  latitude  ;  she  then  returned  to  Triplitz  Bay.  Upon 
landing,  Fiala  found  the  xlbruzzi  cache  in  excellent  condition. 
''Camp  Abruzzi"  was  established,  scientific  work  at  once 
begun,  and  preparations  commenced  for  the  spring  sledge 
journey  to  the  noi'th. 

Severe  gales  struck  in  early  in  Octol)er,  and  continued 
almost  unremittingly  until  the  last  of  the  month,  when  they 
ragwl  with  such  fury  as  to  threaten  the  safety  of  the  ship. 

She  bravely  withstood  the  terril.)l(^  ice  pressures  to  which 
she  was  subjected  until  January  23,  when,  during  a  frightful 
hurricane,  she  disapj)cared  from  view. 

Tlie  first  week  in  March  a  sledging  journey  was  undertaken, 
comprising  twenty-six  men,  sixteen  pony-sledges,  and  thirteen 
dog-sledges,  but  the  severity  of  storms,  and  the  suffering  and 
hardshi])  endured  from  cold,  decided  the  party  to  return,  and 
cam])  was  reached  on  Alarch  11.  Other  journeys  of  short 
duration  were  undertaken  with  similar  success.  Leaving 
])art  of  the  com])any  at  Camp  Abruzzi,  Fiala  made  a  retreat 
to  Ca])e  Flora,  thcnx^  to  await  the  ]iromised  relief  ship  which 
was  (x]M'eted  early  in  August.  His  idea  was  to  renew  his 
Xoi'th  Pole  d;ish  the  following  season. 

Tlu^  exj)ect<'d  ship  was  eagerly  watched  for,  but  as  the 
months  sp(Hl  by  on(^  l)y  one,  and  the  ship  (Ud  not  come, 
l)r(>])arations  wore  made  for  wintering,  and  the  liberal  depots  of 
su])plies  left  by  Jackson,  Abruzzi,  and  Andrce,  were  examined 
and  found  in  (excellent  condition. 

'■  I'^lmwooil,"    Jackson's    litlk^    house,   was    dug    out    and 


484 


TlIK   (iHEAT    UlllTh-    XOUTII 


ni-iilc  li;il)!t;il)l<\  ( 'otninuiiiciition  was  iVcHiuciit  Ix'twccii 
"('amp    Ai)ru//i"    and    "  l^lniwood."' 

I'iala,  in  a  roll  and  daii^vrous  joiirucy,  returned  to  ( 'anij) 
Ahru/zi,  Wiiei'e  he  made  iii'eparations  for  anotlier  >p!'in,i;'  jour- 
ne_\'  toward  the  i\)le,  to  he  uniha'laken  with  one  comjjanion, 
three  doii;  teanr-,  and  a  sup})ort  in,ii'  coliunn  of  three  small 
detachments.  Scniman  Dully,  who  ha.d  a('('()nupauied  Idahi 
to  ('a|)e  ijarentz  in  Atiiiust,  1901,  and  ( "amj)  l'd(.)ra  in  June 
of  the  sam(>  \'ear,  was  chosen  as  his  companion.  The  sta.i't 
was  made  in  March,  but  very  slow  pro.^ress  \\'as  niad(\  .\fter 
days  of  disheartening!,'  tra\'el,  co\'erinL;;  hut  a  few  miles  a  daiy, 
the  conditions  ii,!'ew  worse  instead  of  hettei'.  ■'()ur  trail  was 
fi'om  ice-cake  to  ic(^-cake,"  writes  Fiala.  "wliile  we  cross(>d  tlie 
separating;  water  l>y  means  of  ice-hrid'j,- ^s  lahoi'iously  con- 
structed at  the  narrowest  points  with  our  ice-t)icks.  In  other 
|)!ac(>s,  we  ti'a\"erse(l  monster  ])ressure  .''id^es  that  s])lintei'ed 
and  thundered  under  our  feet,  sc;u'In<i-  the  do.us  until  tliey 
wliineil  and  whimpeiv'Ml  in  their  tei'ror.  It  was  diiii(ailt  to 
fiiid  a  cake  (if  ice  lar,i2,'e  enou'ih  h»r  our  >mall  party  to  camp 
on.  Dee])  snow  and  mimerous  water-lanes,  with  a  hi_iih 
temperature  and  at  tendant    fo,u',   al<o  iiiipediedi  our  ad\'ani'e." 

On  March  '22.  t  he  adx'ance  was  alia'idoned,  and  ten  dax's 
were  o;-cupied  in  the  retreat.  ( "aanp  Ahruzzi  was  reached, 
Apiil    1. 

ddii'  I'clief  ship  Tiri'd  Xovt  readied  ('ape  l^'loi'a  tiie  end 
of  .lul\'.  picked  up  th(>  part  \'  (aicamp(Nl  I  liei'e.  ;aid,  1  ouchinu'  at 
(  'ape  Dillon,  took  a  hoard,  t  ke  j'cmai  Cider.  It  wa<  t  hi  n  learned 
that  in  !*)t)  1  1  he  /■'/■/'////(//'  had  made  t  w'o  hold  attempts  lo  reach 
Cape  I'iora,  l)Ut  had  keen  un<ucce<-i'ul. 


CHAPTER   XXII 

Otto  Sv(>r(ii'up.  —  l'\)ur  velars'  vo^'aiiv  of  the  Frnm.  —  Joiu'ticys  in 
llilrsuuTf  Land.  — lini)()rtant  L'xpltiratloii  of  Jon('^  Sound.  —  Dis- 
covery of  new  laiuls. --- liclca^c  of  Xlw^Frain.  Captain  Koald 
Amundsen.  —  The  voyai2,'('of  the  ('-'///r/.  -  Meaelu's  head  of  Petersen 
Bay  (Kinj:;  ^\'iUianl  Land).  -Two  years'  stay. — \'ahiahh^  sci- 
cn.tiht'  o'.)ser\-ations.  —  N'isils  from  Lskimos. — Sled,u'(>  jouriK^vs. 
—  Pel(;i.M'  from  the  ice. — August  14.  l!)()tK --- Completion  of 
th(>  Xoi'tiiwest:  l\iss;i<re.  -Anotlier  Arctic  winter.  — Sled.u'e  joui- 
ney  of  Anuuulseu  to  VavxXc  City.  —  Relea.se  of  tiie  Cjoa. — 
Reaches  San  l''ranci-;co,  11)07. 


Ix  tlie  (Te()(jr(iph'ic(d  Journal  of  Xovombor,  1902,  Sir 
Clonieiits  ]\.  Alarkluun.  President  of  the  Royal  ('ieo!2;ra])hi('al 
SocictN'  of  London,  connncntins  on  the  reinai'kabic  achic^ve- 
nient  of  ()1T()  Sverdrtip  and  liis  ,i;-allant  (•onii)anions  dnrinu' 
fonr  li'avellin'j;  sc^asons  (nitailinji'  four  Arctic  winKn-s,  expresses 
hiinself  as  follows  :  — 

■■ddi(>y  have  discovered  th(^  western  side  of  Kllesnu^re  Island 
and  the  intricate  system  of  fiords,  as  well  as  three  lar,u'(>  islands 
west  i)f  l-d.l(>sriier(>  I>land  ;  tlu\v  lia\"e  ex])lore(l  {he  northern 
coast  i)f  Xorth  Devon:  lliev  lia\'e  connected  P)elclier'>  woi'k 
^•\•:ll!  tlie  coasts  (^f  Jones  Sound;  tliey  have-  reaclunl  a  ])oint 
williin  (■)()  miles  of  Aldi'ich's  farthest  ;  and  they  ha\'e  disco\'- 
(■!-ed  (hat  laPid  north  of  tlie  Paia'v  Ishuids.  tlu^  exi-tence  of 
A\'hich  w;i:-  I'onjectui'ed,  as  fai'  west  as  the  lonuitude  of  the 
ea-tei'u  co..>t  of  Melville  Island.  Tlii-  include-  the  disi'o\-cry 
of  the  noi'tliei'ti  sides  of  Xorlh  ('ornw-d!  aud  Findla\'  I-lauids. 
In  addil:ou  to  th.e  m.ain  Arctic  ]);'o')h>in  wlileh  is  thus  >oh'(  d, 
i'  !-  h';eh/  thai  *la'  reirions  ilis<'o\-ereil  will  he  nf  i-xf-pt  ioual 
uiier''--!,  fi'cMu  the  wiudi.-;  and  (au'rents,  the  \'ai'\"ijiii'  charaiaer 

■13.-, 


4ot;  IllK    (.HEAT    WHITE   N<jRTIl 

of  The  ice,  the  existence  of  coal-beds,  and  the  abundance  of 
animal  life.  A  systematic  survey  has  been  made  of  these 
important  discoveries,  checked  by  astrcjnomical  o])servations." 

'"We  must  look  forward,"  concludes  Alarkham,  ''to  an 
account  of  these  things,  and  to  the  details  of  the  expedition, 
with  th(^  deepest  interest  ;  and  meanwhile  we  may  well  ex- 
]:)ress  admiration  for  the  way  in  which  the  work  was  conceived 
and  executed,  and  at  the  perfect  harmony  with  wliich  all  loy- 
ally worked  under  their  chief.  A\'ithout  such  harmonious 
work,   succc^ss  was  not  ]X)ssible." 

The  Norwegian,  Otto  Xeumann  Sverdru]),  was  born  in 
Eindalen,  in  Helgeland,  in  I800.  At  seventeen  yccU's  of  age  he 
went  to  s(>a,  ])assed  his  mate's  examination  in  1S78,  and  iov 
sonu^  years  was  captain  of  a  ship.  He  ac('omi)anied  Xansen 
on  the  (ireenland  expedition  in  bSSS-lSs9  and  was  captain  of 
the  Frnm  on  Xansen's  famous  Polar  voyimf.  A  few  days 
after  the  return  of  this  ex]")edition  in  Si'])tcml)er,  ISOfi,  while 
the  FraiN  was  lying  in  Lysaker  Bay.  Dr.  Xan-en  came  aboard 
one  morning. 

''Do  you  still  wish  to  go  on  another  ex])edition  to  the 
north?"  he  asked  Sverdrup. 

"Y(>s,  certainly,  if  only  I  had  the  chance."  came  the 
prompt  re])ly. 

Then  Xan-^en  told  him  that  Consul  Axel  Ilcibcru-  and  the 
firm  of  brewers,  Messrs.  Ringnes  l^u'othcrs.  were  willing  to 
hnance  and  e(|uip  another  scientific  Polar  exixnlition.  with 
<"a])tain  ."-^verdru])  a-  leader. 

d  he  Fi'dni  w;i<  loaned  ])y  the  Xorweuian  uovernment,  and 
about  eleven  hundred  |)ounds  was  uTarited  by  tlie  "  Storthinu'  " 
tor  necessary  altefation-  and  i'e]")air-.  The  prr^onnel  of  tlie 
expedition  was  mo-t  ca?'efuli\-  selected,  including  faeutenanl 
\ie1()!'  IVanman  of  tlie  Xoi'wc'iiian  Xav\-.  Lii'Ulenant  [ngx'ald 
l.-ach-en  of  the  Arm\'.  the  botani-t  Herman  ( leoru' .""^immons. 
;i    graduate    of   the    Pnix-ei'.-it  \-   of    Lund:     and    Ivh'ard    P:i\-. 


FOUR    VI-JAUS'    V()YA(rJ£   OF   THE  '•  FliA^f  "         4o7 

zoolo^i^ist,  u  graduate  of  the  Univc^rsity  of  Copenhagen,  the 
latt(H"  a  member  of  Lieutenant  Ryder'.s  expedition  to  the 
east  coast  of  (Ireenland  in  1891. 

The  Frain  was  ready  for  sea,  June  24,  1898,  and  left  her 
moorings  \v\[\i  the  quay  pael^iMl  with  people  and  tlie  fiord 
covered  with  small  craft  "which  had  come  to  see  the  last  of 
us  and  wish  us  a  safe  return  home." 

Captain  Sverdrup's  original  plan  was  to  push  through 
Kennedy  and  Robeson  channels  and  as  far  along  the  north 
coast  of  Creenland  as  possible  before  seeking  wintei'  (juarters. 
The  unfavourable  seasons  of  1898-1899  prevented  him  from 
carrying  out  his  intentions,  and  he  fortunately  turned  his 
attention  to  Jones  Sound,  which  led  to  the  compl(>ti(;n  of  the 
most  imjiortant  Arctic  work  yet  remaining;  "namely,  the 
discovery  of  wliat  was  hitherto  unknown  in  the  wide  gap 
i)etween  Prince  Patrick  Island  and  Aldrich's  farthest." 

Frustrated  in  his  attempt  to  enter  Kane  Basin,  Sverdrup 
wintered  in  Rice  Strait,  west  of  Cape  Sabine.  ImnKnliate 
pre])arations  wen^  made  for  ])assing  \hv  cold  season,  and  scien- 
tihc  oi)servations  and  exploring  trips  occupicnl  the  autumn. 

In  describing  the  sun  sinking  out  of  sight,  Sunday,  October 
10,  1898,  Sverdrup  says  :  ~ 

''We  were  looking  at  the  sun  for  the  last  time  that  year. 
Its  ])ale  light  lay  dying  over  the  'inland  ice'  ;  its  disk,  light 
red.  ^\-as  veiled  on  the  horizon  ;  it  was  like  a  day  in  the  land  of 
th(^  dead.  All  light  was  so  ho]ielessly  cold,  all  life  so  far  away. 
A\'e  stood  an<l  watched  it  until  it  sank:  tlien  everytliing became 
so  still  it  made  ont^  shudder  —  as  if  the  Almighty  had  d(>serted 
us,  and  shut  the  dates  of  Heavcni.  The  light  died  away  across 
the  mountain-,  and  slowly  vanish(>d.  while  over  us  cr(>])t  the 
great  shades  of  t\\v  ))olar  night,  the  night  that  kills  all  life. 
I  tliink  that  each  of  us.  as  we  stood  there,  felt  liis  heart  swell 
witliin  him.  Xcn-er  before  had  wo  (experienced  homesickness 
lik'>  this  —  and  little  was  said  when  we  continued  on  our  wav. 


4:]H 


Til!-:  (;ni:A'r  white  xoirni 


.  .  .  Hi  re  caiiic  l-'i'aiikliii,  with  a  liun<lr(-(l  and  thirty-('i,<;'hl 
men.  'I  he  j)(.ila''  iii^ht  >l(j]j])cfl  him  ;  ainl  not  one  rcturnciL 
li('!'(M'aiii(' ( Irccly,  with  ii\'(' and  twenty  men  ;  six  rctui'iUML  .  .  . 
Well!  tiicrc  lay  the  Fr(ti/i,  stout  and  dchant,  hkc  a  httlc 
fairy-liousc,  in  tlic  midst  oi  the  polar  niulit.  It  was  warm 
and  l)ri,u,ht  in  iiei-  cabins,  and  we  woi'ked  with  a  will  Irom 
niornin,-!;  to  ni,ii'!it." 

SiedL;..'  joiU'Mey^,  ineliidin<;-  a  \-isit  to  the  Winjlirdrd^  Lieu- 
tenant ]'ear\'s  ship,  and  a  personal  interview  with  the  ex- 
j)lorer  himself;  xisits  to  the  /-"/v////  hy  neliiJ!]  loMi'inu:  l->kimos 
and  a  itriiliant  journey  across  kdlesmere  hand,  occiipieil  meni- 
Im-1'-  of  the  S\-erdi'ii])  expedition  until  .May  17,  1-^'.)!),  when 
those  on  hoard  the  Frani  celehrated  with  true  patriotism  the 
Independence  Day  (jf  Xorwa\'. 

On  one  of  the  early  sunnner  sleduc  journeys,  V)\\  J(jhan 
S\-end-en  saetihceil  his  lih'.  ()verralinu'  hi-  eiidui'ance,  he 
had  rapidly  tailed,  and  thou.^h  he  per-i>ied  in  renraininu'  in 
t!:*'  held,  his  sti'eniilh  did  nol  I'eturn.  Aft(-r  a  day's  work, 
S\'ei'dnip  came  into  camp,  Avhere  Sclei  and  Simmons  wei'e 
cookin'j;  diimer.  "ddie  doctor  >aid  he  U\\  much  better," 
writes  S\'erdrup;  "the  ])ain  in  his  sidi'  wa-  ,ivone.  and  hi>  eyes 
had  -o  fai'  reco\"ei'e(l  that  he  could  >it  in--i.!e  ihe  tent  without 
>pecla''les.  ...  I  then  asked  him  for  a  second  time  if  he 
would  not  let  me  take  him  on  hoard,  now  iiiai  wr  had  all 
re-led.  hut  he  would  not  hear  of  il,  ap,d  said  that  he  >hould 
t)i'cfi'!'  to  remai!!  wlu'!'!-  he  wa^s.  I  then  oi'fi'i'cd  to  -ta\'  hdiind. 
witli  him  we  could  collect  insect--  and  -hoot  seals  toLi'el  liei'. 
I)Ut  !!-■  Would  not  let  me  deha'  the  jotU'liey  to  P.cil -I  ad:  jord. 
anil  ,-:i!(!  that    the  lime  would  pa-s  quickly. 


il  whi'Mi  he  wa- 


tliei'i  alone.  He  could  iL'o  out  ^lootlnu'.  e(i!f  ri  in-cct-.  ;;ii'! 
loolc  cfter  h!<  do'i-  :  he  would  lia\'e  pleiily  Id  do.    ...       \\  e 

i:ot  !■(  ;id\-  f,ir  oiu'  four  da>--'  ti'ip  to  I'.rit -i  a'h'joi'd.  anil  the 
d(/e'or  lielpcd  u-  to  carry  down  our  tliinu^.  la-h  tlie  loads 
to    til.-    -Ii-dn,.-,    aid    luarne--   the    do'^-.       Au'l    tiienwe    -aid 


For II    YKAIiS     VOVAdE   OF   TIIF  -FHAM"  4-"5n 

g()()il-l)y  to  one  anolhor,  little  thinkinj:;'  what  was  about  to 
ha])]:)('n." 

Four  days  later  the  absent  party  returned.  ''To  our  ,<;Teat 
sorrow  we  found  the  doctor  dc^ad." 

On  June  IG.  1899,  Ca})tain  Sverdrup  made  the  entry  in 
his  joiu'nal  :  — 

'"The  Ha,u'  is  (lying  at  lialf  mast  from  the  ])ole  to-day.  It 
is  the  first  time  it  has  been  in  this  position  on  Ixjard  th(^  Frain, 
let  us  hope"  it  will  indeed  b(^  the  last.'' 

Th(>  inlerestina,' ,jO"arn.e\' across  tlu^  "inhuid  ice"  of  l-^ih^^- 
m(>re  b:nid,  by  Isachscn  and  Bi'askerud  \v;).s  undertaken  May 
2:],  1S1)9,  with  food  for  thii'ty  days,  and  instruments  and  e{[uip- 
nient  ;  a  total  wei.uht  of  ei^-ht  lnmdre(l  and  sev(>nty-tw() 
l)ound-,  divid(Ml  equall}'  Ti])on  the  sle(l!i-('s,  each  drawn  by  six 
doGs.  Choosing  a  route  to  th(>  westward,  Tsachsen  writes  in 
his  r(>poi't :  — 

"About  midnight  on  .June  2,  we  saw  from  the  high  gromiil 
to  the  northwest  the  first  siglit  of  what,  later,  ])rove(l  th(>  w(\-;t 
coast.  It  was  a  hord-arni,  which  cut  into  tlie  land  in  an  east- 
erly dii'ection  from  the  larger  fiord  lying  almost  du(>  north 
and  south.  biT'in  tiie  outer  ])art  of  this  fiord-arm  a  chain  of 
mountain^  of  e(ju.d  heights  ran  in  a  southeasterly  dii'ection. 
\carei'.  and  in  fi'ont  of  this  chain,  was  a  wide  level  w;i.ste — ■ 
'  l')r;(1v(Tndfl\  a."  Thei'c  was  no  snow,  (atlier  on  tlie  wa>tc  or 
on  tlie  mounialiis.  In  one  ])art  only  of  the  chain  was  a  frau'- 
na  nt  of  .lihu-icr  to  be  se(ai  hanging;  over  th(>  up]:»(n'  ])art  of  the 
mountain  -ide.  In,  the  southeast  the  waste  aJjutted  imme- 
diately on  1  he  ■  inland  ice."  "' 

''r;'a\'eirmg  ovi'r  a  glacier.  th(\v  (aid(>avoured  to  rc^ich  the  barc^ 
!;!!)'!  of  till'  hord  :  \\\\<  they  succecdi'il  in  doing,  June  \. 
''J"hr('i>  com-ci'giriii'  ii'l;icicrs  fell  into  a  glacier-lake,  ami  the 
f(»!!ov,-i.iM'  .!.:iy  we  dro\-e  on  'hi-  down  the  valley,  but  only  for 
a  eonjile  '.){  miles,  which  \\-:!>  the  extent  of  its  length.  Tla^ 
ice  on  it  was  about  to  break  up." 


44() 


TIIK    a  UK  AT    WJIITI-:   yoRTlI 


Ilavinu;  cnfamjX'd,  the  two  tnon  rambled  over  a  consider- 
able area  in  the  vicinity;  findin,ti'  luxuriant  \'cii;etation  wher- 
ever there  was  bare  laud.  At  a  distance  some  ten  (jr  ele\-en 
miles  in  a  noilhwesterly  directiiju,  tliere  \va-  no  "  inland  ice'' 
west  (jf  the  northermnost  f;laciers  pre\'iou>ly  inenti(jn('<l. 
After  c(jnlinuin<^'  their  ex])lorations  lor  se\-eral  da\'s,  they  ^\'er(,' 
forced  toretui'u  thr(_)UU'h  continued  Itad  weather.  f(j,u>.  and  <iales. 
On  June  22,  tlie  thirtieth  day  since  Icavinii'  the  ship, —  the 
f(jod  sui)])ly  remainin,i!,'  \va<  i-etluced  to  alxjut  fifty  biscuit-, 
ten  and  a  half  tablets  of  conipres-ed  lentils,  about  l\jiU'  ])ounds 
of  penunican,  enouiih  coffee  for  twice,  six  whole  rounds,  or 
seventy-two  rations,  of  dog-fooil,  and  a  half  .uallon  of  petro- 
leinn.  After  a  delay  of  six  da\'-  by  tlie  inclement  weather 
andi  a  slow  and  diffictilt  ]:)ro^a'res<  to  the  top  oi  Leffert  (ilacier, 
it  wa.s  with  joy  that  a  relief  ])art\'  from  the  -hi]")  were  met 
with,  and  "the  followiiru'  da\'  ^\■(■  di'<i\"e  down  Leifei't  (dacier, 
(ju  s])lendid  sikjw,  and  reached  the  Ffmn  on  Sunday,  July  2, 
at   five  in  the  UKji-ninu'."' 

On  Au,uu>t  4,  the  conditions  beiim' more  fa\'ourable  than 
heretofore,  f'a])tain  S\'erdrup  endea\'(jure(l  to  navi^'ate  the 
Fi'inn  throuuh  Kane  Iia-in.  In  Payer  Harbor  an  American 
steamer  was  siu-hte<l,  .u'oini!;  northea-t.  To  the  joy  of  all.  the 
steamer  .-iuiialled  she  had  letter^  on  board  for  tlie  Xor- 
weu'ian-, 

Thc'  attem])t  to  ]ienetratr'  Kane  Ra-in  wa<  un-ucce<>ful ; 
the  Frmn  \va-  forced  back  to  I-"ouike  I'jord.  a  -hoi't  (li-talicc 
from  one  of  Pcai'y's  -hip-.  ('a])taii!  Martlott.  I  )r.  I)ieda-ii-k. 
and  one  or  two  othei'  member-  of  the  (xpedition  exchanucd 
courte-ic-  with  the  \orweu.ia_n-.  Mr.  I^ji'idmnan  and  Profe-- 
sor   I.ibbcy  c;itiic  aboai'd  t!ie  h'mm. 

\'  •'■'.'a-  e-ii'ncd  that  the  mail  brou^'ht  iioi'tli  h;td  been  left 
at  ]\iyci'  Ilni'bo:'.  The  /-'/v/?//  enilea\'oUred  t  o  u'et  it.  but  the 
impeiM'i  rabjr  p-irk  ])ri'\'eiitcd,  and  afti-r  t!,c  mo-t  de<]-)crate 
e''!'ort -■  t  he\' !ia\-('  uj)  in  dc-i)air.      It  wa-  at  t  hi-  iunciurc  aft  er 


sciEx  riFic  onsEii  i  'A  rioxs  44 1 

the  ;ib;ui(lonmcnt  of  the  i)lan  to  trace  the  northern  extremity 
of  (lieenhmd,  that  Sverchnip  transferred  his  base  to  tlie  fiords 
of  the  north  coast  of  Jones  Sound.  Securing  no  less  than 
thirty-three  wah'us  for  dog-food,  the  Frani  estabhshed  the 
second  winter  quarters  at  Havnefjord  in  96°  29'  X.,  84°  25'  W. 
(iain(>  and  seals  were  found  in  plenty  during  the  autunm, 
also  musk-oxen,  hares,  and  reindeer.  IMost  successful  scien- 
tific res(>arches  wei'c  promoted,  sledging  parties  continued 
explorations,  and  the  only  event  to  mar  a  liap])y  autumn 
was  the  death  of  Braskerud.  Pie  had  had  a  very  bad  cold, 
was  ill  a  fortnight  with  a  cough  and  had  great  difficulty  in 
breathing,  but  had  suffered  no  pain  ;  there  was  no  doctor,  and 
nothing  could  be  done  to  relieve  him  ;  he  had  kept  his  bed  the 
last  three  days  of  his  illness,  and  no  on(^  dreamed  the  end  was 
so  near. 

Pre])arations  for  the  "grand  sledge  journey"  of  the  spring 
ke])t  the  nuni  busy  during  th(>  winter  and  c^arly  in  the  season 
Isachsen,  Bay,  Schei,  and  Stolz,  each  man  witli  a  full  load, 
v.'ent  to  examine  the  outlying  depots  placed  the  previous  fall. 
At  Bj()rncborg,  the  ravages  of  bears  luid  cau>ed  loss  of  hjod 
tuid  damaged  cciuipment,  and  this  seri(jus  menace  to  the  suc- 
cess uf  the  future  journeys  decided  ('a))tain  Sverdru])  to  ])lace 
a  watchman  at  this  lonely  and  isolated  spot.  Bay,  the 
zorilogist,  volunteered  for  the  duty  and  was  appointcnl  "C'om- 
mandtmt  of  P)jorne])org." 

"On  March  7,"  writes  Sv(>rdru]i,  "  Fosheim  and  I  start(Ml 
we^i  in  company  with  the  newly  a])]^()int(Ml  connnandant. 
A  little  after  twelve  the  following  day  we  arrived  at  the  boat- 
hou^e.  .  .  .  After  finisliing  our  work  we  had  dinner,  which 
was  a-'  su~;taining  as  it  was  s])lendid,  and  consisted  of  boiled 
beef.  saus;i,a.-e.  sou]),  and  green  ])(nis.  After  dinner  we  had 
ili\'im<  and  cot'fee.  and  after  suj^jx'r  grog.  I'^ai'ly  next  morning, 
and  on  good  ice,  we  dro\'e  on,  running  by  the  side  of  the  lo.ads 
nearly    the    whole    day    to    inci'ea-e    the    ])ace.      We    reached 


442  THE   CHEAT    WliriE  NOHTII 

\\]i\vm'\)org  in  tlu^  evenin<i-,  wIum'C  \\q  found  our  now  depot 
in  ui)()(l  order. 

'■X(>x1  da>'  \\v  sot  To  work  on  tlic  ('r(n'tion  of  tli(>  Coni- 
nuuidaiit's  i'('si(l('ii('(\  W'c  huilt  a  vci'v  rcsjx'ctablo  house. 
.  .  .  Lilvc  otlier  residences  of  the  kind.  '  ijj(")ruel)or<2;'  must 
have  its  flau',  we  tliouiilit,  and  a>  we  M'ei'e  in  ])()ssessi()n  of  a 
fla;j.-falT,  whicli,  considei'in^u;  our  circunistauces,  Avas  irre- 
l)roach.al)le,  we  secui'ed  it  to  the  roof,  and  rau  up  a  17th 
of  .Ma\'  iia'j;.  P>ut  our  ( 'oinniandaul  was  economical,  and 
woul<l  onl\'  use  it  on  occa-ions  of  esjX'cial  ceremon}-. 

"Ifei-e  !5a\'  li\-ed.  aloohilely  alone,  for  thre(^  months,  and 
durinii'  the  first  part  of  the  time  without  so  umch  as  a  hving 
Ix'inti'  for  companv'  :  al'tei'wards  lie  had  a  <^arri>on  consistiu.ii' 
of  a  whole  walch-doa;.  I  )urinti;  all  this  lon^ii;  period  1  never 
saw  him  out  of  spirits." 

The  h)l!o\viirii'  day.  Sx-crdruj)  and  Id)rheim  nia<l("  an  exami- 
n.ation  ol'  the  ice.  wliich  in  the  iiords  was  ruiiiicd  and  hum- 
mocky.  ('jjon  \\\v  relui'ii  to  the  >!iip  if  was  decided  that 
F)amnann,  leadiu'j;  the  >Uj)j)oriinu  party,  should  leave  tlie  ship 
Saturday,  March  17,  with  full  loads,  "with  l)jr»rnelior,ti'  as 
their  destination  :  retui'iiitru'  t!ienc(>  to  the  hoat-house  to  fetch 
pi'o\'l>ion-  and  do^-lood,  which  were  to  he  u<eil  on  the  a])- 
])r()achiiui,  journeys  ^ve-t\vard." 

i''oi'  lhe<e  journeys.  l>ach-;en  and  T[a->el  AV(M'e  to  mal\e  (Mie 
parl\'.  l''o-heini  ;tnd  S\(M-dru])  the  second.  Schei  and  Pedei- 
the  third.  All  were  to  meet  at  r)jr)i'nel)orii'  on  March  21, 
l;itei'  to  -ep;ir;;ie  an<l  joui'ney  in  difl'ereiit   directions. 

41  le  following  rat  ions  A\-ere  allot  ted  to  t  he  difh'i'ent  ])arties:  — 

l';iM!iiaim  and  hi-  men,  2!()  da\'-'   ration^,  ahout  o.'lO  ponnds. 

1-arti-eii  and  l[;i--el      .  I'K)  day-'  !'ation.-.  a!)out  220  pounds. 

Sxerdrup  and   1 'o-dieim.  iOd  da\>-"   ration-,  aI)ou1  200  pounds. 

Sc.hei  and  I'ed-r  .      .      .     SO  d;iy>"   ration-,  alniul  17")  pounds. 

])ay .     00  da\>^"   I'ation-,  ;il)ouf  200  pounds. 


SLFBdE  JOUnXEYS  448 

T!i(' '■({rent  Exix'dition,"  Ujxjsi  wiiicli  so  much  thou<iiit  and 
care  had  been  expended,  was  ready  to  start,  March  20,  liiOO. 
"Idle  weather  was  beautiful, "'  writes  Sver(h'U]),  "and  we  (h-ov(; 
out  thi'oujili  the  sound,  east  of  Skreia,  at  a  smart  pace,  taking, 
when  s(.)uth  of  it,  a  line  dii'ect  for  South  Cat^e." 

On  this  journe}'  in  which  Sverdrup  and  losheim  traced  the 
west  shore  of  Ellesmerc^  Land  to  SO^  oO'  X.,  a  serious,  yet 
anuisinsj,'.  incident  occurred.  "At  certain  places  oii  our  way," 
Avrit(-s  ,S\-erdrup,  "we  came  across  huge  rocks,  sonne  of  which 
wei-e  as  big  as  a  cottage,  and  round  tliem  the  snow  had  drifted 
to  such  a  height  that  we  could  only  just  see  the  to]).  ^^dlen 
we  came  nearer,  we  found  that,  as  a  rule,  the  wind  had  hol- 
lowed out  a  large  empty  space  between  the  drift,  and  we  were 
often  met  by  a  yawning  pitfall  twelve  to  eigliteen  feet  in  de])th. 
...  I  .-^liould  mentiijn  that  we  were  obligiMi  t(_)  drive  above 
tlie  rocks,  as  l)el(AV  ^\•as  the  open  sea.  ...  It  once  \vd\)- 
])ened  that,  .iu>t  as  we  were  passing  a  I'ock  of  this  kind,  a  gap 
occui'rf^d  between  my  sledge  and  the  one  following  it.  As 
soon  as  I  became  awai'c  of  this,  I  ])ulled  u])  ;  l)Ut  almo>t  l^eforc 
I  knew  wliat  was  taking  place,  tlu^  dogs  had  made  their  usual 
frantic  rush  to  catch  up,  and  the  sledge,  men,  and  tc^am  were 
preci])itate(l  into  the  hok.^  twelve  feet  below.  A  inom^nt 
aftcrwiU'ds,  l)efor(^  anything  coiild  be  done  to  ])revent  it,  the 
next  sledge  came  tearing  u])  and  fell  into  the  hole,  and  on  the 
hc{4s  {.if  number  two  came  a  third,  v.'hich  followe(l  their  ex- 
aninle.  .  .  .  Tn  l!i(.'  grav(»  lay  ])ell-mell  three  men.  ei^'hteen 
'i()'j,<.  and  thi'ce  sledges  with  their  knids,  and  l!ie  snow  w;is 
hying  up  fr<jm  it  in  cloud<.  Hero  and  thei'e  a  sledg(>  runner. 
()!■  a  >fa!-ki:i  >ti'a]),  was  ^ticking  out.  Then  I  saw  one  of  the 
.men  f'raw'ling  out  of  the  me(l]e-y  and  pulling  him-elf  togrther, 
then  anodiei',  and  another.  Thank  (loij.  liicy  wei'e  mH  alive  ! 
And  lli!'  diou- '.'  d'hey  were  lyinii'  in  ;i  l)!;ick  lie;i]).  one  team 
on  to])  of  t  lie  ol  i;ei'.  kickiuu'.  howling,  and  figliting,  till  we  couM 
hardl\'  hear  the  men's  \-oife>  for  their  noise,  <o,  a})pai'ently, 


444  THE    (rllEAT    WHITE   NOUTII 

they,  too,  were  alive.  As  soon  as  we  had  hauled  them  all  up. 
we  set  to  work  to  shovel  part  of  the  drift  away  so  that  we  could 
i\vA%  up  the  loads.  The  first  sledj^'e,  which,  after  much  toil, 
we  succeeded  in  bringing  up,  strange  to  say,  was  whole,  nor 
wa-^  there  anything  wrong  with  numljer  two,  while  number 
three  was  as  intact  as  the  two  former.  The  very  astonishing 
result  of  this  flight  through  the  air  was,  tlierefore.  that  not  a 
limb,  nor  a  lashing,  nor  bit  of  wood  was  broken."' 

Wdiile  the  travellers  were  in  the  fi(4d  ])ursuing  their  ])eril- 
ous  and  exciting  adventures,  the  Commandant  at  Bjorneborg 
was  leading  a  lonely  and  monotonous  life  awaiting  his  chance 
to  annihilate  marauding  Bruins.  His  first  call  t(j  arms  came 
.soon  after  Captain  Sverdru]/s  departure.  Late  one  night, 
while  half  a<Iee]),  the  ( 'onnnandant,  at  tliat  time  without  a 
garrison,  thought  he  heard  a  faint  s(jund  in  the  depot.  "I 
only  tui'ned  round  in  the  bag,'"  he  says,  "and  inwardly  cursed 
IIa.--ers  dog-,  which  were  loose  again  and  ransacking  the 
depot.  I  was  on  the  ])oint  (jf  falling  ash-i-])  (jnce  more,  when 
it  began  to  dawn  on  me  tliat  my  rea-oning  had  bec'U  wrong, 
for  there  were  no  dogs  within  many  miles,  and  therewith  I 
heard  a  crash,  which  seemed  to  make  tlie  earth  tremble. 
A  moment  later  T  was  out  (jf  tlie  bag.  had  draii^'ed  my  gun 
from  its  covei',  and  cocked  it,  for  it  sudd.ciily  occurre(l  to  me 
that  my  guest  was  a  serious  one.  The  firsl  thing  I  did  was 
to  liuht  llie  lamj),  after  which  I  began  to  move  away  some 
tin<  I  had  put  in  front  of  the  door,  that  niuht  for  the  fir<t  time, 
to  kce])  it  in  place.  The  sound<  still  c()ntinuc<l  at  the  dei)ot. 
but.  in  mo\'ing  t  he  l;i<t  tin,  I  hajjpeucd  to  make  a  <light  noi-e. 
and  tlicii  e\-('rytliing  became  ;ts  <\\W  a-  di-itli.  I  raised  the 
do.  ii-  ;tri<l  i'rc])t  out.  It  wa-^  one  o"clock  I  had  lool<ed  at  my 
Watch  wiicn  I  lit  tli''  lamp',  and  much  darker  than  \\"a<  pleas- 
ant for  t  he  work  before  me. 

"I'lie  bear,  meanwhile,  had  made  it.-ejf  (juite  at  home.      In 
Ol'der    to    get    at    one    of    the    blubbei'-ca-e-^,    it    had    thru-t    the 


SLEDGE  JOl'RXEYS  445 

cnipt}'  boxes  out  of  its  way,  and  had  thrown  down  one  of  the 
dog-food  boxes  which  had  been  placed  on  the  cases  of  bhibl)er. 
The  marks  of  all  its  claws  were  clearly  visil)le  in  the  tin.  The 
other  box  was  op(»n,  and  the  bear  had  tasted  a  coupU^  of  rations, 
but  had  (^-idently  not  found  them  to  his  liking,  for  he  had  spat 
them  out  again  into  the  box.  It  had  then  very  carefully 
liftetl  the  tin  down  on  to  the  snow,  and  then  —  also  very  care- 
fully —  raised  the  lid  of  the  blubber  box.  But  just  as  it 
was  going  to  begin  its  meal,  it  had  evidently  heard  my  clatter 
inside  tlie  hut,  and  had  sat  down  to  listen,  with  its  right  paw 
clasping  the  edge  of  the  box.  It  was  in  this  position  at  an\^ 
rate  that  I  found  it,  when  I  raised  myself  up,  after  creeping 
out.  The  bear  was  about  fifteen  yards  away  from  m(>,  and 
as  soon  as  it  saw  me  rose,  large,  and  fat  and  hissing;  it  made 
the  open  tin  rattle  as  it  put  its  left  paw  down  on  it.  It  looked 
just  as  if  it  W(M-e  thumping  tiie  table,  to  show  what  a  fine  fellow 
it  was,  and  reniind(Ml  me  of  one  of  my  friends  on  l>oar(l  — 
so  much  so  that  I  lialf  unwittingly  addressed  it  in  tlie  way 
usual  bctwe(Mi  us  ;  a  manner,  h()wev(>r,  hardly  fit  for  i)ublica- 
tion.  Wliether  tlu^  bear  felt  offended  at  this  I  know  not,  but 
(•(M'tain  it  is  that  it  got  up  and  walked,  growling,  with  long 
measured  stei)s  round  the  depot.  I  aimed,  and  shot  it  in  the 
shoulder:  I  could  just  discern  the  sights  through  the  darkness." 
"The  bear  utter(>d  such  a  loud  growl,"'  continues  tlie 
Commandant,  "that  it  seemed  to  make  tlie  stillness  ring. 
Tli(>  fire  from  my  gun  had  dazzled  me,  and  I  could  no  longer 
s(M'  tlie  siglits,  and  the  bear  itsf>lf  T  only  saw  a<  a  sha]iele<s 
m:i<s,  which  seemed  to  liavc^  grown  most  incredibly  larger. 
T!ie  other  baiT(>l,  the  small-shot  l)ai'rel,  which  was  loaded  with  a 
!arg(^  l)all,  I  firiMl  straight  into  the  mass  without  going  through 
a!i>'  such  formality  as  aiming.  Tluai  I  mad(^  a  well-ordci'ed 
reti'eat  behand  the  hut,  and  ])ut  in  some  fresh  cartridges.  I 
do  not  much  b(>licve  in  hurrying,  but  I  did  this  in  ]es<  time 
than  it  ta.kes  to  tell.      To  nu' u'reat  astonishment  I  did  not  see 


4Uj 


THE   CnKAT    WHITE    SOUTH 


aii\'t  liinu'  —  not  tliat  I  wantcl  lo  -  -  ui  my  ('!)''tny  diirinji'  tliis 
()])('ration.  hut  as  soon  a>  I  \\'a>  I't-idy.  I  hciiaii  to  pcci'  al)out 
ai'tci'  it.  ihoiiLiii  al  fii>t  without  .-uccc->.  At  la>t.  on  Kcndinj^' 
down,  1  cau^iit  si.^lit  of  a  larii'c  (iark  olijcct  a  sliort  di>tanc(> 
away,  at  a  -^pot  where  I  knew  llicre  wa~  no  I'ock,  —  tlii-.  of 
cout'-e.  \'A'i-[  Me  the  heal',  hut  whether  de:id  or  aH\"e  it  Was  iin- 
])o--ihh'  to  1(4!.  1  thei'eh)re  a(h\'anee(l  with  miicli  e;iution, 
and  iir:-'i  a  -hot  at  wliat  I  -Ujijxj.-ed.  to  he  it-  head.  On  elo-er 
exaiii!na*!i)n  it  ])i'o\-('(l  to  l)e  thf  other  eufl  of  t!ie  lieai'  T  liad 
hoiii'oarded  :  hut  a-  a  zorilocii-t  I.  of  i-our-e.  icnew  that  t!ie 
hi'ad  in  ;'  rsis  nmrH' tn  us  i-,.  a-  a  ruh-.  exae;  !y  at  tlie  o|;])o-ile 
cxi  r<']!iity  to  rh('  after-end  of  t'i"  a.ainiah  and  at  la.-t  reah.y 
suecee'h-(i  in  'ii\"iiiL!;  it  <oine  lead  w  th"  riu'ht  phice.  The  hear 
had,.  ]e)  I'louht,  he'-]i  (h'a<l  fof  -onie  ti:;;  ■.  I'Ut  di~e!'(^t  ion  is 
thr  heif'!'  ])ai't  of  \-ah)Ur.  T  then  reah/ed  tliat  T  had  !<ihed 
niy  fif-t  hea!' :  to  say  tliat  I  wa-  proud  i-  nowhere  near  tiii- 
!nar!;.'" 

ddie  ( 'omin.-uidant  \\.'A  other  vi-il-  from  h(-a,r-  wiiile  lead.inu' 
tin'  lier'aii'-  hf'-  at  HjiM'nehor;.!;.  and  the  i^ilhiiir  of  a  ^e.il  n-a- 
af-o  adida'd,  to  lii-  aeliiexa^iaent -.  (  )ii  .h.ii"  2,  i;M  ,\-r\-a!\  lie  h'ft 
t!;e  CN-'h'  whta"e  |;c  iiadi  ji-.a-d,  ;;h)iic  f.ii'  ;i!mii-t  ,a  (jUarter 
of  a  year.  -"'It  wa-  not  wiiiiout  a  f^'e'anu'  of  ~;aliie--,"  he 
■\\'!'i te-,  "  t  !ia  t  I  -an'  t  lie  l;o-t  <:!imp-e  of  t  !ie  -not  a-  w'r  I'ouU'h'd 
ihi-  -l-^-O  ohrf-  of  Sto;'!!ikap.  foi'.  al'h<iUirh  m\'  ii:'^'  tlicre  h:..d 
li'- Ml  -o'atary  an  '  iuonotouou-  i-noULih,  exrcjii  on  oeea-ions 
wli-ii  n  h,,d  h...n  .•x'r-mely  hv-ly.  1  h'h  1  v.-a-  h-avin-  a 
hM'M-'  N^'hi'i'c  !  kiH'W  ''\"'  ry  -*o!!.'  and  ■'■(  yy  irr'-uuhsrity  i>f  i'  !■ 
;L;riiu;!d  a  oja'"'  !  h.-d  laiown  in  eahii  and  ihi^  i^hii'y  nf  -un- 
-hiii"  a-  w  '!!  a-  deifn'^  1  he  im^'UlT  <  a'  d;!'  -torni-.  .\!id  thi  n, 
Imm.    f    ha''  a    fi  I  'ilia:  a-  i''  iM-iec  and  ( jui' 't  iii  •--  Wi-Vi-  at   all  end. 


A 


T-d    Mil    hoard    dio    /dr/a/      Ma\'   IT.    l!IO() 
!•  \'   I'alluia  na  II  in   ;  ho  v.-im  i-y  a  wniini.  w;i- 


UELEASE  FROM   Till-:  ICE 


44" 


sup])o^(>il  to  !)('  the  ('aus(^  of  the  ('(MifhijiTatiou.  The  loss  of 
]).irci{!iu-i)r('j)ar('(l  ka^'aks,  a  ([iiantity  of  sj-cis,  and  wood  and 
otIhm-  valuai)l('s  were  ('(jusiuikmI,  hut  the  chief  dan.ucr,  \vhicli 
thrcaicn.cd  the  safety  of  the  ship  and  all  on  board,  was  tlu^ 
proximity  of  the  fire  to  an  iron  tank  containin,;:;  fifty  i>,'allous 
(••f  >;)i!'it  ;  s(j  o'reat  was  tlu^  heat  of  the  hre  that,  thou,ti,h  the  tank 
held,  the  tinning  on  the  outside^  was  fonnd  melted. 

On  .Vugiist  9,  aft(n'  a  summer  of  successful  research,  the 
conditions  heing  fav(jural;le,  ('a})tain  .Sverdruj)  decided  to 
])ush  W(  >tward  with  the  Fniin.  •'Tlnvjiigh  th(^  ice-free  sound 
all  went  well,"  he  writes;  "but  farther  out,  east  (;f  the  rocks, 
we  entered  the  ice,  and  lay  there  ramming  the  whole  (la\'  long. 
A\  h(aiev(~r  we  got  a  chance  we  forged  on  full  speed  ahead  ; 
and  when  perfoi"C(>  we  came  to  a  standstill,  we  backed  to  get 
an  impetus,  and  gavc^  another  ram."  Skirting  x\\o  coast,  th(> 
rrdiii  ])U-hed  lier  diflicult  coiu'se  t(_)  within  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  fro!n  Xoith  Devon,  where  on  Se])tember  o,  11)00,  the  ship 
w.i-  made  I'eady  for  her  third  winter  in  the  Arctic.  ( )n  tlie 
b")i.h.  :!  >toi']n  di>ru[)te(l  tlu^  i)ack,  and  (juick  action  (jn  the  |)art 
of  oliicc!--;  and  men  was  recpiiretl  to  ])rei)are  the  Frain  for  th(_' 
openinu'  of  the  ice  which  suddenly  re'eM^ed  ]\ov.  As  fpiickly 
a-  ])o--4ble  >]{('  was  beariiig  tov\-ard  Cai'digan  Strait,  and 
sl'-ered  ihrou.uh  iii  ea-y  waters,  finally  anchoring  in  the  good 
^\■^lTer  hiU'boui'  of  (!aa<efiord.  Hie  land  in  the  \'icinity  of 
thi-  har'ooui'  w;i<  ridi  in  game,  fauna,  and  interesting  fo--il>. 

('a])1ain.  Sverihui)  de-cribes  a  curious  ex]*erience  while  out 
huntimr.  In  a  >m:ill  x-alley  he  (l!-co\-i';vd  counr:e-<  luu'e- 
tr.icl;-.  whi'-h  cro<<e(i  and  j'ecro-.-eij  one  aiiollier  in  e\-ery 
<liri-cii()n.  lli!'  -now  in  ])i:!'-e-  havinii  befi)  troMdeii  in  h;ird  v\\\\<. 
Calliim'  hi-  teIesco])e  1o  'hi-  ;iid,  he  !n:i  !e  o:i;  what  lie  JkuI  mi-- 
taI<i'U  for  a  gi'oup  of  wiiii(>  -lone-  ;i  -liort  (li-iai!"e  o!'f.  to  !)(>  a 
group  of  Arctic  luu'c-,  bhirty-onr  in  ninnb.er.  e\-i«len[ly  at 
]'e-i .  with  on(-  ])I;iinl\'  ai'tinii  a-  -futinel. 

AlUujugh    Sx'erdruj)    ai)i)roaclied    with    great    caution,    the 


448  TIIK   (UlEAT    WHITE    XOltTII 

hare  on  guard  suddenly  took  alarm  and,  starting  \\]),  ran  wildly 
round  her  flock,  striking  her  hind  l(-gs  on  the  ground  till  it 
fairly  i-f>oundcd,  then  setting  off  at  a  bi'isk  i)ace  ov(^r  the 
ridge  of  a  hill,  the  others  following  in  a  long  line  and  ])resently 
disai)])eai'ing. 

At  a  short  distance  two  others,  evidently  not  belonging 
to  the  (jther  lot,  remained  by  themselves.  "1  thought/' 
writes  .^verdrup,  "it  would  be  intei'e.-ting  to  go  across  to  them 
if  ])ossil)le,  and  see  what  they  were  about,  but  realized  I  must 
make  use  of  other  tactics  if  I  W(juld  approach  near  them. 
This.  I  thought,  was  a  fitting  moment  to  im})ersonate  a  rein- 
de('r.  (_)r  s(_)me  other  kind  of  big  game,  and  I  made  a  valiant 
atteni])t  to  sinuilate  their  grazing  movements  backwards  and 
forwards  on  the  sward.  .  .  .  IMy  tactic>  were  so  successful 
that,  in  the  end,  I  was  not  much  more  than  two  or  three  yards 
awa\'  from  them.  It  was  quite  touching  to  see  these  great 
innocent  Arctic  hares  sitting  only  a  U-w  ])aces  off,  (juietly 
gnawing  i'(»ots.  The  only  noticf'  they  ^"ouch^afed  nw  was 
an  occasi(jnal  sniff  in  my  direction.   .   .   . 

■'  I  staycil  long  fraternizing  witli  the  hares  down  on  the  grass, 
and  at  last  we  did  not  mind  each  other  in  tin-  \'er\'  h-ast. 
They  went  on  with  their  occupation-  (|uite  imconcerne<lly :  I 
with  mine.  I  fell  -ometliing  like  Adam  in  Par.aih^e  behire 
bA'e  came,  and  all  tliat  ab'our  tlie  ~er))ent  lia]  ijiened." 

IIuntitiLi'  exi)editions  and  autumnal  >ledge  jounii'ys  at  an 
end.  the  winter  .-et  in  with  ])l(-nty  of  work  to  d.o  for  e\-ery 
one  on  lioard  tlie  Fr'iiii.  Th<'  -iiiilhy  was  c.'ilieij  uj)on  for 
eni  lie-- labour  :  tin-  taiJ.ngof  ob>er\',ai  ion-;  and  the  many  other 
dail\'  occuj)ation>  causeij  the  loim  Arclie  niLihl  to  ))a.-s  with 
c'--  monotiany  and  ile])res-ion.  A  \'i-itation  fi'oin  Avoh'cs 
adideij  excitement  to  the  winter,  and  wirious  methods  were 
trieil  for  1  heir  ca])t  ure. 

1"li''  explofatioii-  of  1!)01  ])roved  IIfi!iei-g  T.and  to  be  an 
i-latid.  -epai'ated  by  Ifeureka  Strait  :    tlii-  wa>  exj)l(»red  a-  far 


''FHAM's"    SECOyiJ    POLAR   EAPEDITIOX  44i) 

as  its  junction  with  Groel}-  Fjord,  Ijut  another  year  roniainod 
i)».'roro  tlio  Norwegian  standard  was  carried  to  81°  37'  X., 
92°  \y.,  where  it  was  rais(Kl,  May  13,  1902,  and  the  outline  of 
coast  complected  to  Aldrich's  farthest. 

liaviug  made  one  of  the  most  brilliant  records  in  Arctic; 
history,  the  members  of  the  Frcnii's  second  polar  expedition 
tui-ned  toward  their  native  land,  and  on  August  6,  1902,  the 
Frant  began  her  triumphant  retreat  from  the  (ireat  AMiitc 
North. 

"Homeward  !  What  a  strange  ring  in  the  simple  word  !" 
cries  Captain  Sve^rdrup.  "On  our  long  and  laborious  sl(>dgc 
journ(n's  we  had  many  a  time  used  it  when  we  thought  of  the 
Fniin,  and  a  good  hon.ie  the  Fram  had  been  th(>s(>  four  years, 
wai'ui  and  strong  and  well  provided,  Init  that  was  in  another 
way.  Xow  the  longing  for  home  coursed  tlu'ough  our  blood, 
and  all  the  yearning,  which  we  had  thrust  asidc^  during  these 
long  years,  broke  loose,  rang  in  our  ears,  and  made  our  hearts 
beat  fa^te]■.  Half-forgotten  memories  and  dawning  h.oi^es 
came  back  again.  A  sea  of  thoughts  streamed  in  on  us  and 
Tied  our  tongues  in  the  midst  of  tlie  joy  at  going  home.  It 
was  a  moment  full  of  promise  wlien  Ave  knew  that  we  were 
looking  for  the  last  time  on  these  mountains  and  fiords,  wliich 
for  so  long  had  been  the  ol)ject  and  scene  of  our  en(l(>avor." 

S(>pteml)(r  20,  tlie  Fram.  reached  Christiansand,  and  two 
d;iys  later  sh(>  dro])])ed  anchor  for  a  few  hours  at  haiiggi'unden, 
off  Ilorten.  ()uite  a  fk^et  of  steam(>rs  and  sailin<.',-!)ords 
(^sf'orted  her  fi'om  Stavanger  to  ( 'hristiania.  which  was 
ri^ached  '"on  a  beautiful  Sunda.v  which  recalled  to  us  the  day, 
four  years  since,  wluni  we  had  gone  tli(>  other  way."  .  .  . 
''So  the  Frani's  scH'ond  polar  expedition  was  at  an  end.'' 
concludes  ('a])tain  HvfM'drup.  "An  rijiju'oximtite  area  of  one 
luindre(l  thousand  scpiare  miles  had  ])een  exiilored,  and.  in 
the  name  of  the  Xoi-wetrian  King,  taken  ])oss(>ssi(Ui  of.  If  the 
members  of  the  exjXMlition  have  been  able  to    do  anything, 


4')0  THE   GREAT    WUITE   SORTlt 

Ihis  is  ()\viii<2,'  in  the  first  instanco  to  the  s;ici'ifi''('s  of  gonerous 
?sor\v(\ii,in.ns  ;  tluit  W(>  have  not  clone  nioi-c  is,  at  any  rate, 
not  owin^-  to  want  of  will." 

'i1u'  succ(\'^sful  navigation  of  the  lon<i,--sou,i!;ht  X()rtln\-('st 
Passat^c  by  Captain  lloald  Annuulscn  has  been  onc^  of  the 
stirrini;'  events  of  tlu^  early  twentieth  century.  Of  this  hardy 
Norseinan,  and  what  he  aec(jnii)lislie{l,  Mr.  Alger  gives  an 
intei'estiiig  aecoinit  in  Pid)iaitis  Magazine:  — 

"15orn  July  Ki,  1S72,  at  I'orge,  in  the  disti'iet  of  Sniaalenene, 
soutluM'n.  Xorway,  he  eonies  from  an  old  sea-fai'ing  family, 
and  has  had  nnieh  experience^  as  a  sailor.  As  nn  oilicer  he 
took'  ])art  in  tli(>  Belgian  South  Pole  (expedition  of  1(S97,  on 
board  the  lichjica,  and  it  was  down  in  t}K>  Antai'c1i(;  regions 
tliat  he  first  planncMl  his  famous  Ai'ctic  voyage.  On  the 
whalej',  (!j<)a,  a  shij)  of  only  40  Ions,  h(>  left  ( 'hristiani;i  in 
]\Ia\',  lOOo,  with  a  crew  of  seven  men  ;  Jind  \\\rvv  3-eai's  later, 
in.  th(^  summer  of  P)()(),  tlie  news  was  s])read  over  the  world 
that  he  had  acc()m])lish(Hl  ^\■hat  no  nuui  befoi'e  him  had  suc- 
c(H'd(>d  in  doing.  He  had  not  only  sailed  through  th(>  North- 
west Passiige,  but  had  located  the  Magnetic  Pole  and  other- 
wise^ gathercMl  much  scientific  itd'oimntion  of  tlu^  greatest 
valu(>  in  r(\gard  to  fhes(>  lit tle-kn.own  i-egions." 

The  (•joa  was  es])eciall\'  st  !-(>ng1  hened  luid  I'ehited  through- 
out. She  was  am])ly  ])i-()visi<)ned  h)r  {\\('  >-e;u-s,  and  her  crew 
most  c;n-efully  sel(HM(Ml.  Second  in  conmiand  was  Lieutenant 
(iodlVed  ll;m,-en  of  th.e  Danish  Xavy.  l^'ii'st  n>:ife  Auto  Lund 
of  d'i'omso(>  had  had  long  years  of  s''r\-ice  in  the  sealing  trad(>. 
P(>der  Pisli'edi,  a  sei-geant  in  the  Xoi'\V('gi;U!  Arni\',  was  fiist 
engineer.  Ilelmer  Hansen,  also  an  (>Apei'ienc(Ml  sealer,  a 
good  sn()W-^hoer  atid  hunter,  was  second  male.  (lustav 
Juel,  second  engiiieei',  was  to  1a];(>  par!  in  tlie  ma.gnetic  obsei'- 
valions,  but  ill'  died  on  the  trip  !Vom  ])n(Mimonia,  in  AL'ircii, 
P,)()l).  Adoif  LircMroM!  sei'ved  as  cook,  ha\ing  served  in  the 
same  (,'apacit\'  alioard  the  Frani. 


sciKXTfFic  or.siniVATioxs  4.51 

Sailin.a;  at  midnight,  Juiu^  1(),  190.'-),  IVoin  ( 'hrir^f iania,  Cajx' 
I''an'\V('ll,  Crcculaiul  was  sighted  iWv  weeks  hder.  Securing 
ten  fiu("  dogs  at  CJodhavcn  from  Iltn-r  Dongaad  Jensen,  In- 
s])CH'tor  for  North  (Jre(>nland,  tliey  ent(n-ed  Melville  Bay, 
August  8.  On  August  15,  they  came  in  sight  of  Dalrymple 
Ivock;  at  this  i)oint  two  Scotch  whaling  ca])tains  —  Milne 
and  Adams — had  de})()sited  cc^rtain  stores  for  AnRmds(>n. 
ddie  (ijoa  was  un(\x]x>ctedly  met  in  ka\'aks  l)y  jn(Mnl)ers  of 
llu^  Danish  Literary  Greenland  (^xjxHlition,  ITerr  M.vlius 
I'^i'iksen  and  Herr  Knut  Rasnnissen.  An  (exchange  of  (H)ur- 
t(>sies  was  followed  by  the  loading  of  the  (rjoa  with  the  pack- 
ages from  l)alryni])le  Rock.  Ptishing  tlu'ough  tlu^  lanes,  at 
full  steam,  they  emerged  into  open  water  in  i')anin  l">ay,  and 
later  entei-ed  Lancaster  Sound,  anchoring  at  Becndiey,  Au- 
gust 22.  On  August  24,  th(\v  ])ushed  into  Pch'I  Sotmd.  The 
efhciency  of  tlu^  comi)ass  now  cf^ascnl,  and  tliey  wcm'c  c()mi)(>lled 
to  n.avigate  by  the  stiu's  whencn^er  they  ai)peared  through  the 
fog,  which  ])revailed  most  of  the  tim(\  Passing  along  the 
west  coast  of  Bootliia  Felix,  they  came  to  grief  by  grouriding  on 
Se])tember  1  and  were  obliged  to  '^lighten  tlu^  sh.i])  by  throw- 
ing overboard  the  greater  pnvt  of  the  (k>ck  cargo.  On  Sat- 
urday, S(^i)tember  12,  ent(M-(Hl  Ojoa  Harbor  "  — a  small  land- 
locked vovc  at  the  head  of  Pet(M'sen  Ikiy  (Iving  William 
Land),  and  how  they  reniaincMl  for  nearly  two  ycnu's. 

Lnmediatc^  ]ire])arations  wove  made  for  wintering,  i)ro- 
\'lsions  landed,  oliservatories  (>r(H'ted,  and  Amundsen  at  once 
])egan  his  vaduable  sci(Mitific  observation's. 

"In  ordci'  lo  eusun^  accuracy,"  writes  Ceneral  (Irec^Iy 
in  I'le  ('adnrii,  l'.)07.  "(lie  magnetic  instruments  wer(>  in- 
slaljrd  in  iemi)orar\'  wooden,  buildings,  built  wit';  copi)cr  nails, 
and  enlircly  I'ree  of  an.y  ii'on,  heal,  oi'  e\"e!i  light,  excc'pt  tlu^ 
la.mp  behind  l!ie  refleclor.  Kei'e  da\'  and  niuhi.  for  t\V(nty 
'uoiiihs,  \\'('!'c  made  ])hotogra;>h  i-ecoi'ds,  and,  these  wei'e  sup- 
]>!'Miif'nte>l    liy    personal     eye-i'ead.ings    to     ,-er\-e    ;is     needl'u! 


4.')-  Till-:  (;uEAr  wiirn-:  xoirrii 

checks  on  iho-c  {i!iol(),ii,r;ii)hically  obtaincil.  The  observers 
in  thi-  work  were  clotlied  eiitirel\-  in  deerskin  garments,  and 
Ix't'ore  enterini^  the  l^iildin,!;-  wliei'e  the  niajiiietonietres  were 
iii>1alle(l.  carefully  (hve>ted  theni>el\'es  of  watches,  keys, 
kni\-e.-,  and  other  rnetalHc  objects.  The  observations  wei'e 
nuulc  in  winter  inider  such  c()n(Htioiis  of  cold,  monotony,  and 
dai'knes-  a>  to  merit  the  highest  coinniendation  f(jr  endurance 
and  con-iancy.""  And  he  c(jntinue-.  "The  A'alue  of  tlie  con- 
timious  observations  at  (ijoa  Harbor  ^\■as  lariiely  increased 
by  >iinilar  observation.-  in  the  field.  v,-hicli  n('cessarih'  entaileil 
<i'\vvi'  ex])o<ure  and  con-ecjuent  hai'd>hii)s  on  the  sledg'inij; 
})arties.  In  Alarch,  VM)\.  a  ])reliininai'\'  journey,  made  for 
the  ])Ui'])o<e  of  (■>tabli-hin,u'  food  de])ot.-.  iiiv(dve(l  nuich  >uf- 
f(-i'in,u'  owinu'  to  excessive  cold,  the  tem])erature  fallimi'  to 
l\r  below  zei'o.  Fahr.  The  sledge  journe\'  t (_)  the  ^ilagnetic 
Pole  it-elf  was  made  1  »y  Anuuid.-(-n  and  Ivistv(-<lt.  stalling 
April  2.  UK)I.  with  ten  doii-  and  two  .-ledger,  much  diihcult\' 
re-uii  im>-  fi'om  r(_)UU'h  ice. 

■'l-"i\-e  o](-er\'ation  >tations  wei'c  oi'cu|)ied  between  Tljoa 
Ihai'boi'  and  Tasmania,  L-land-.  whicli  ;ir(-  a.bout  eighty  miles 
directly  north  of  Pio--">  niagnetic  jtdlc.  Thi<  field  woik 
occupied  about  two  niout  h-.  beiiiLL'  -umuiai'lly  fini-h<'d  at  the 
(■nd  of  !\ra\',  owiiur  to  lo:-<  of  fond  through  ih(-  t!iie\'ing 
Itchnacliii)r\"i!v-  of  ea-lei'n  I>oothia.  \A'hile  n()  definite 
j'e-ult  of  the  field  ()b-er\'at  ion<  can  \'et  be  u'i\-en,  it  i-  not 
thought  that  there  lia<  b^eeii  ;iny  deci,|(-d  c!iami.c  from  the 
m:ii:'neiic  cou'lilion-  ob-er'\'ed  by  IJo,-.-  in  l^of.  when  the  ])ole 
(if  (li'-liiiat  inn  Wa-  in  the  n(ii:ht  ini'hdoil  of  ( 'a])e  Adelaide, 
7fb  n.V  \.,  !i(i-   !  !'  W." 

<  )ii    Aoril    1.    bid.y    I.ieuteiKiiiT    TIaii-cn   and    bb-t  \-i'.h .  with 

t  Wi  I  -I'-Lv-.  iWeK'i'  (ioL!,--.  ;ind  j  )rn\-i -ii  m  -  I'or  ihl'ee  indUth-, 
■,i-i;e.!  \'!c;i,j-j;,.  ;,ii,j  iy\\i-v  charlimj,'  iialf  of  the  mi--imi:  coa-t- 
liu''  I'd  iirnei !  .lune  "J  I . 

Xei'_Lh!iijiir-      .wye      !i(il     l;;e!ving     the-.'      i-iilaied    W'hil  e      P.l'U. 


ACGl'ST  14-   J^oti  453 

Frequent  visits  from  Eskimos,  and  the  n(nvs  of  American  fisher- 
men to  the  soutli,  i)ermitted  of  letters  Imng  forwarded  by 
Eskimos. 

On  August  14,  190(),  all  conditions  l)eing  favoura])le,  the 
Cjd'i  weia,hed  anchor  and  proceeded  westward  in  open  water, 
and  within  a  h'W  liours  had  successfully  passed  through  Etta 
Sound,  the  narrowest  ])lace  in  the  Xorthwc^st  Passage,  a  tor- 
tuous channel  Ix'tween  Etta  Island  and  the  mainland.  The 
following  day  they  threaded  their  way  through  a  group  of 
newly  discovered  islands  in  shallows  that  constantly  neces- 
sitated the  use  of  the  lead. 

A  heavy  pack  was  encountered  in  A'ictoria  Strait,  l)ut  they 
continued  on  their  way  "through  the  strtiit  between  Mctoria 
Land  and  the  mainland,"  thence  through  ''Deas(^  Strait  and 
Coronation  Gulf  out  into  Dol])hin  and  Union  straits,  and  on 
the  moi'uing  of  August  25  sighted  Xelson  Head  —  a  tall  and 
im])osing  headland." 

Plaving  successfully  passed  from  tlie  Atlantic  side  into 
th(.>  Paciiic  side,  the  (ijoa  had  the  good  fortune  to  speak  (jn 
th(>  same  day  the  American  whaling  scliooner,  ('lurrle.-<  Ilans- 
son,  from  San  Francisco.  A  delay  oi  twenty-four  hours  was 
caused  by  the  ice  off  Cape  Bathurst.  Xear  Bailey  Island, 
several  beset  whalers  were  encountered,  and  the  barks 
Alexander  and  Bowhead  wcvv  sighted  off  Pullen  I.-land. 

Cape  Sabine  was  re;vche(l  September  2  —  but  ])rogress 
was  only  made  to  King  Point,  about  thiiiy-five  miles  east  of 
Ib'r^chel  Island,  where  the  67'>«  was  forced  to  put  in  anotlier 
Ai'ctic  wint(M'. 

( )n  October  b''),  Amtmdsen,  with  a  sknlge  and  five  dogs.  mad(> 
a  journey  of  five  months'  duration,  c(.)v(M'ing  a  di>t;mce  of 
fii'teen  hundred  mil(>s  to  E;ig](>  City,  Alaska.  This  included  a 
two  moiuhs'  sojoui'n  in  lui'.i,le  ('ity.  when  all  despatches  were 
forw:u'de(l.  and  mails  recei\'ed,  I'or  himself  and  other  members 
of  the  expedition. 


40 1:  77//-;  tni/'AT   Willi  1-:  .xoiri'ii 

The  foll()\viii.ii'  Aii,u,'u>t,  tli(>  (ijo'i  was  iVccd.  l)ut  (jii  tli(>  10th 
of  that  month  she  rccciN'cd  a  hud  iiijiu'y  to  her  iJroiJcHcr  hy 
jii'oundiin.ti'  on  a  jjiccc  ot'  ice,  so  coiitiuucd  her  jouniox'  ontircly 
under  saih  She  arri\-ed  at  Sati  I'Vaiicisco,  Octoher  ]*),  with,  .-. 
ricli  carii'o  of  ''thiio,Li,Ta])lii('al,  zooloiiic;d.  and  l)otani('al  s]M'(  i- 
nicns,  and  many  furs  and  ciu'io.-.  Th('>c  \\'('i'('  frci,<>:ht('d  \n 
( 'hristhmia,  the  ('joci  talcen  cliai'U'e  of  l)y  Adiuiral  Lyons, 
coinmaudanl  of  the  Mai'i-  Ishind,  Xa\'\'-yai'(h  aud  Anuuidsen 
and  his  com})anious  started  by  rail  for  home. 


CHAPTER    XXIII 

Roljcrt  i:.  Peary. —The  man.  — ^ir.-^t  vi.^it  to  the  Arctic,  1886.— 
Otlicr  jourii('>-<,  I'Syi.  —  IndciJeruU-nce  Jiay.  Greenland.  —  Di.s- 
cove!'>  .MclviUe  Land  and  ileiljjrin  Land.  —  ."Subsequent  journeys, 
IS'Jo  -  L^!).j.  —  iyi>covery  of  famous  "  L'on  Mountain.'"  —  Summer 
voya^ties,  lsUG-i8!)7.  — X(jrth  Pole  jouiiiey  (jf  1898.  —  Peary  seri- 
ou-ly  di-abled  by  fr(j.-t-bites.  —  Polar  ex])e(lition  in  S.  S.  Rooscrdt, 
I'.IO.VllJUG.  —  Lhial  da.-li  for  the  Pole,  liX)8. 

For  nearh'  a  fiuarter  of  a  century  the  name  of  Robert 
K(hviu  Peai'v  luis  been  densely  identified  ^vith  Arctic  work. 
Xo  man  in  the  ]iistor\'  of  exploration  lias  renewed  liis  attacks 
U])un  the  im]jas-;able  LarricM's  of  the  (ireat  White  Xorth  with 
such  ])erseveranc(',  endurance,  and  determination.  Again 
and  agjin  in  tlie  face  of  (hsappointments,  bodily  disablements, 
failure^,  and  di:~coura,2.'fqnent-  tliat  -would  liave  bla>ted  the 
mo.-t  sanguine  ho])es  of  the  a\"erage  man,  he  ]ia<  ])ersi^tod 
in  his  eiideav<)urs,  returned  to  the  field  of  ;iction,  fou.giit  gal- 
laiitl}'  the  dislieai'tening  fight,  come  brick  to  ]-ecei\'e  the 
polite  indilVereiice  or  enth.usia<tic  ]irai-e  of  his  countrymen, 
lurued  his  ene;'gic<  to  raising  thr-  iiece^ary  fund<  to  renew 
hi>  i'nter])rise,  and  wlien  this  Ava-  done,  faced  to  the  north 
and  ])a— ed  again  Ix^yond  the  Arctic  Circle. 

lie  i-  ty])u*ally  American.  t;il!.  lean.  wiry,  nm-cular.  keeii- 
('\-ed,  alert,  ]:)o<iTi\'e.  ami  po«e<<ed  of  that  indomitablo  will 
A\ii!ch  c()n((uei'<  or  die<.  Born  in  Ci-e-son.  ]^'mi-^\d\-ania, 
.M;iy  b,  Is.k;.  lie  ]i;)(l  cai'l}-  tlie  tn^'-fort  unc  to  h)^f  hi>  fatlier. 
.■!:id  ill-  widoAvi'd  mdlhei".  Avith  lici-  ]>()y  of  llu'ec.  returned  to 
her  r<'!:in\-e-  jum]  iViei'd--  in  Xew  hbou'land  and  le.ade  her  hiome 
m   I^ortland,   Abiinc.      Here  J^eai'y,  tlie  lad.  grew  u]).  fond  of 


4'A')  THE    (UIKAT     WHITE    .\<)R'IIl 

the  s(';i  and  llic  woods,  lo\ing  the  wild  roai'  of  the  ()('(viii  as  it 
Iji-at  u])oii  the  rocky  coast,  or  tlu'  gentle  sunuuer  winds 
wliis])erin<2;  amid  the  nortluu'n  pines. 

lie  loved  to  roam,  to  exi)lor(^,  to  find  adventure,  and  to  lead 
others  to  it,  and  in  his  schoolboy  days  he  was  n(.)ted  for  his 
athletic  tastes  and  i)()\\'ei's  of  endui'ance.  At  tAventy-one 
3'ears  of  age  he  completed  his  c(dleg(>  life  at  J^owdoin.  gradu- 
ating siM'ond  in  a  class  of  iift}'-one,  and  four  years  lat(>r  had 
passed  tlie  examinations  which  made  him  Civil  Engineer  in 
the  United  States  Xa\"y.  From  duty  in  Florida  he  Avas  trans- 
ferred to  th(~  Nicaragua  ("anal  zone,  wherc^  he  remained  en- 
gaged in  the  Intei'ocean  Ship-canal  Sur\'e\"  from  LSS4  to  1885. 

He  returned  untler  go\-ernment  orders  to  V\'ashington  in 
the  fall  of  that  year,  and  during  a  leisure  hour,  in  an  old  book- 
store, he  accidentally  came  U])()n  a  ])a])er  on  the  Inkuid  Ice  of 
( Ireimland.  Picmembering  the  aih'cntures  of  Dr.  Kane  which 
had  thi'illed  him  as  a  boy,  and  rending  the  experiences  of 
Xoi'dcnskj(")ld,  JensiMi,  and  th(^  rc^st,  I'eai'y  fcdt  he  nuist  know 
for  himself  what  was  the  truth  of  this  great  mysterious  in- 
tei'ior. 

Thus  cai'ly  liad  the  seed  of  ambition  to  ex]>lore  th(>  land  of 
tlu^  mysterious  north  germina1(Ml  in  h!<  active  mind. 

The  following  year  he  received  ])ei-mission  from  the  D(>]iart- 
inc-]\\  for  lea\'e  of  absence  to  make  a  recouuois^ance  of  the 
('■rcM'iiland  ice-ca]i.  east  of  Disco  I'ay.  70°  nortli  la1itud<'. 

.\cc{)in])anied  by  Christian  ^b'lignard.  a  Dane,  and  (Mght 
TK'iti\-e-.  I'eai'y  (>xamine(l  tlu^  coa<1  and  fioi'ds.  ])(Mietrat(Ml  the 
iiilaiMl  ice,  ;ind  \'i-iled  amo!ig  othei'  interesting  s]iots  tlie 
Tos<i:k;iiek  (dnciei-.  t he  b;i-e  oi' Xoursoak  Fenin>ula.  and  the 
f(is-il  bed.s  of  .\tanekei'd!uk.  •■Ifei'c,"  he  s;iy<,  "I  found 
fr.'igmetits  of  ti-ees,  blaclc  ])e1i'ifae1  ions  with  the  grain  of  the 
\\(uu\  ;md  the  1ex1iii-e  of  the  l>;!rl<  <!iowing  cl<>ai'l\  .  Pieces 
of  -:ind-tone  -])lit  I'l-idily  into  -lieet-.  between  A\'hich  A\'el'e  to 
be  -cell    -li;ir]).   clear   im])i'e<-i(in-  of    lai'ge   ne1-\'eined   !ea\-es. 


■  h- 

% 

1    : 

i 

,7*        ^ 

M 

g^ 

^ 

I 

FIRST     VISIT    TO     Tin:    ARCTIC  -[■')' 

vvory  tiniest  vciuU't  and  iniinito  s(MT;ituni  of  the  ec!g(\s  dis- 
tinct MS  the  lines  of  ;i  steel  engraving;  long,  slender,  parallel- 
vtaned  iea\'es  and  excjuisite  feathery  forms." 

Full  of  (Mithusiasin  for  further  adventure  in  th.e  land  of 
desolation,  vrherc^  the  wild  vivid  pojjpy  flourishes  in  sheltered 
nooks,  near  eternal  glaciers;  where  a  lifeless  descM't  of  i)er- 
pi'tual  snow,  from  five  thousand  to  t(Mi  thousand  fcoi  ahove 
the  level  of  the  sea,  extends  over  ;ui  arc^a  of  some  twelve 
hundred  miles  in  length  and  five  hundred  in  v.idth,  —  a 
ghstcMiing  shi'oud,  —  covering  tlu^  miglity  ixjcks  of  ages,  the 
buried  sunnnit>  of  high  mountains  thousands  of  feet  lielow, 
—  Peary  returncMl  to  the  United  Stiites  and  in  a  nev.-s]);i])er 
article  atti'acted  the  attention  of  the  Philad(^!])hia  Academy 
of  Natural  Sciences,  which  olfered  to  defra}'  part  of  th(>  ex- 
pense of  his  second  exp(>(!itiom 

Peary  left,  June  G,  1891,  in  the  Kite,  and  Mitli  his  ]):irty. 
including  Airs.  I^'ar}-;  Langdon  Cubson,  ornithologist  a.ud 
hunter;  Di-.  Frede-riek  A.  Cook,  surgeon;  kavind  Astru]),  a 
Xorwegian. ;  John  AL  ^'erhoeff,  miueralogist  and  meteorol- 
ogist :  and  Alattlunv  Plenson.  a  coloui'ed  man.,  landed,  nt  M'Cor- 
mick  Bay  in  August.  An  unfortunate  accident  alxj.'ird  tlu^ 
Kil(\  which  resulted  in  a  l)r()]-;en  1(\l>;.  causc^d  Pe;iry  dis-ip- 
pointn.ient  and  delay  in  carrying  (_)Ut  his  autusnn  ]~)iaiis. 
IpAvever,  "Red  Cliff  TTouse"  was  erected,  connnuniciition.s 
with  the  nati\'(^s  (Established,  and  sucli  ^vork  cari'ied_  ;):i  as 
P(>ar>-"s  unfortunate  condition  would  ])ermit.  In  .\]/''il,  IM)'2. 
Peary,  being  fully  I'estored  to  lundth.  left  P(mI  ( 'iiif  lloii-^e  ;uul 
ex])loi'ed  liioiefi(>Id  Culf;  his  next  mo\-e  w;is  io  e-tabii<h 
cache-  of  ])rovi<ions  to  be  used  on  his  sledge  joiu'ne}'  across 
th(>   ice-ca]). 

Tills  jounie\'  ^vas  imd(M'tak(Mi  in  Alay  ;  four  <'edg(>-.  To  wluch 
were  fiarries^ed  sixtecMi  dogs,  canic!  tli*"  pr!)\'i-ions  and 
e(]ui]-)ment,  .\  ■-u])])orting  ])art>'  a<'\"an('d  with  I^aj'v  to  a 
point  a!>out  (aie  hundred  iniles  from  .M'(  ■orniii-k  P)a\'.      1'li<^ 


458 


THE  <;nj:AT   wiute  yonrii 


ox])lorer,  ■with  one  coniijunio!!,  Astru]).  jirococdod  overtliofji'cat 
ice  at  ;iu  elcxatioiiof  about  iivc  thousand  iVet,  and  by  May  ?A 
looked  down  into  Peterniau  Fjord.  "Here,"  says  Peary, 
''we  wei'c  on  the  ice-bhit'fs  forniint;  the  limit  of  the  j^wcat  ghicier 
basin,  just  as  we  liad  b(HMi  at  Ilunib(»ldt,  but  a  ti'ifle  less  for- 
tunate here  than,  at  lluniboldt.  I  I'ound  it  nee(\-;sary  to 
deflect  some  tcMi  miles  to  the  easnA'ard,  to  a\'oid  the  ine(juali- 
ties  of  the  ,<i,lacier  basin,  and  the  i;-r(\at  erc^vasses  A\-]iich  cut 
th(^  ic(^-blulfs  (Micirclinji;  it." 

Peai'y's  object  now  was  to  make  the  east  coast  of  (Jn^'u- 
land,  folloA\in<i;  the  ed^'e  of  the  ice-ca]),  beset  with  cr(^\'ass(\s, 
sli])])(My  ic(\  hummocks,  driftin<;-  sno^\■  and  l'o,<;'s,  and  \\\v.  jour- 
ney Avas  continued  until  July  \.  iM)2.  Avhen  they  I'eached 
inde]K'n(lence  ]^ay,  81°  'M'  nortli  latitude.  An  ascend  of 
Xavy  (iiff  re\'eale<l  a  ma.ii'nificeni  ])anorama  of  ru,u;s.';e(l, 
majestic,  ice-free  countr\'  to  the  noi'lh,  aiul  the  broad  ex- 
])anse  of  the  Juist  (ireenland  ( )cean. 

Sti'an_a,'e  it  seemed  that  in  this  remote  could ry  in  sh(itere(l 
nool<s  the  flowers  bloomed:  \\\o  hum  of  brcs.  the  drone  of 
flics,  fell  u])on  the  eai';  the  snoA\'-bunt  inii;,  t  he  sand])ii)er,  a 
( 'ii'eeriland  falcon,  and  a  ])ai!'  of  I'aAChs  ii,reeted  the  ad\('n- 
turers.  Alusk-ox  fed  U])<)n  th(>  ])atches  of  ,<.ri-(>cn>Avard.,  and 
no  less  1  han  fiA'C  fell  to  Peary"s  rifle  and  sui)i)licil  men  and  doti's 
A\'it  h  abundant  meat. 

The  ret  urn  journey  b.-ick  to  AT'^ 'ormicl;  I'ay,  a  distance  of 
some  four  hundr('(|  an.d  lll'ty  miles,  was  made  o\'er  th.e  ice-c;i]) 
in  t  he  face  of  \iolenf  storms  and  AN'ind,  t  hroui;li  drifls  ;i,iid  foo-, 
A\-ith  dimlul-liefl  ])ro\-i-iM!i<  ainl  l.-iiliiiu'  d<i,u"s. 

A  joyl'ui  meetiuL;;  A\i(h  Prol'e-'-or  IIi'ii])i'!n  and  ))a!'iy,  A\l!o 
had  colli!'  iKirt  h  ;i  monlli  before  wilh  i!ie  l\il(.  look  pL'ice 
on  the  liihiid  lee.  ;il  the  he;id  oi  M'C'ormick'  i'i;i\'.  and  a 
h;ii)])\'    I'elinn    w;i-    made    to    I'ed    ('iil'l'    House. 

'f'he  re-.iiiisof  Peai'v'.- second  \-oya.u'e  to  ilic-  Arctic,  embi'a.c- 
iiiii  the  urea!    t  A\"el\-e"himd  i'e(  l-mili>    Journey,   determined  the 


bfSCOVEHS    MELVILLI-:    LAM)  4513 

northern  (^xtcii.si<jn  unci  iusiihirity  of  (Greenland;  made  the 
tliscovery  of  detached  ice-free  land-masses  of  less  extent  to 
the  northward,  and  esta])lishe(l  the  rapid  convergence  of  the 
Greenland  shoi'es  above  the  78th  parallel.  It  also  in- 
cluded the  discovery  of  Melville  Land  and  ITeilprin  Land, 
and  the  accumulation  of  most  valuable  scientific  data, 
b(^sides  laying  the  foundation  for  Pear\''s  compr(4iensive  study 
of  \\\o  (Ircnndand  Highlanders,  or  native  Eskimo. 

Lumevliately  upon  his  return  to  the  United  States,  Peary 
devoted  his  energies  to  a  lecture  tour  from  which  he  ho|)(Hl 
to  derive  the  necessary  funds  to  promote  a  more  extended 
exploration  of  Northeast  Greenland. 

(iranted  three  years'  leave  of  absence  by  the  Hon.  B.  F. 
Trac}',  Secretary  of  the  Xavy,  tlie  North  Greenland  expedi- 
tion of  189.3-1894  sailed  in  tlu;  Falcon,  June,  1893,  and  entered 
th(^  mouth  of  P)Owdoin  Bay,  in  Inglefield  (hilf,  August  3. 

Her(^  a  house  vcas  rapidly  constructed,  stores  landed,  the 
Falcon  making  a  ])rief  tri])  rd'ter  the  winter  su])ply  of  mcuit, 
with  a  sto])  at  Life-Boat  Gov(»,  Vviiei'e  a  \'isit  was  made  to  the 
site  of  I'olaris  House.  A  fe^v  relics  were  picked  up  luvaring 
the  stani])  of  the  I'nited  States  Navy-yard  at  \\'ashington, 
dat(>d  1805  to  1S70.  The  2()th  of  Atigust,  after  her  return 
to  the  stati<jn  at  Bowdoin  Bay,  the  Falcon  stc^amed  south,  leav- 
ing the  little  group  of  fourteen  ])ersons,  including,  among 
othei's,  Air.  and  AFrs.  I'eary.  Mr.  S;umiel  J.  Entrikin,  Eivind 
Astru]),  i:)r.  Edward  E.  \'inc(Mit,  Air.  E.  B.  Baldwin,  Airs. 
Susan  J.  Gr<jss,  and  tlu^  coloured  man,  Afattiunv  Henson. 

On  Se])tiMnb(M'  12,  in.  this  far-aw:i>'  land,  the  famous 
'■  snow  b;d)y"  wns  born,  littk;  l)lue-e\'cd  Afari(^  Ahnighito 
Pear\',  and  "bundled  dvv])  in  soft,  warm  Arctic  furs,  and 
wi-;i])])(m1  in  the  Stars  and  Stri])es."' 

In  e;ir!y  AI;u-c!!,  1894,  tlu>  last  ]:)re|)arations  wove  completed 
for  a  second  tweh'e-liundredi-mije  jourricy  across  tlie  Gr(H>n- 
land    Ice-cap.      On    the  Gth  of  the  montii,  accompanied  by 


ido 


riiK  (iiiEAT   niiiri-:  yoirrir 


cii'jit  iiien,  tv.'clvo  sledges,  and  ninety-two  dogs,  Peary  as- 
cended tlie  Inland  Ie(\  The  advance  of  such  a  caravan  was 
slow  ;nid  heav.w  The  dogs  of  the  various  teams,  being  unac- 
customed to  on(^  tuiother,  were  constantly  fighting  ;  the  ix'iie- 
trating  cold  nij)])e(l  with  frost-bites  the  hands  an.d  feet  of  his 
men.  so  that  after  an  advance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-four 
miles,  at  an  elevati<ni  of  five  thou.sand  fivv  hundred  feet, 
Peary  d(>t(M'mined  at  the  end  of  thirt(H_^n  days  to  cache 
sur])lus  stores,  si'ud  back  the  majoi'ity  of  his  men.  ar.d  ])ro- 
ceed  with  three  men  alone.  l-)Ut  the  conditions  of  cold  and 
storms  were  too  adverse  for  human  endurance,  the  thei'mom- 
eter  reaching  as  low  as  —  {)0° .  The  dogs  wei'e  reduced  to  a 
most  ])itiable  condition,  many  dying  from  ex])osur(\  On 
Ai)ril  10.  having  advanced  onl\'  about  eighty-five  miles, 
Peaiy  decided  it  \v;is  inadvisable  to  attem])t  to  ])i'(jceed  and 
])re])are(l  for  his  return  to  l)owd(»in  P)ay. 

Abmidoning  and  caching  all  umiecessary  im])edimeiit;i. 
with  o!d\"  twent\'-six  dogs  remaining  out  of  the  original  mnn- 
ber,  the  ])arty  reached  the  station  in  a  much  enf(H'bl(>d  jumI 
reduced  st:ite. 

'{'hough  tem])orarily  defeated  in  tb,(^  main  object  of  his 
en1er])ri<e,  Peary  had  gleaned  much  information  conc(M'nieg 
the  famous  ""  Iron  Alouidain ""  of  .Meh'ille  ]-)ay.  first  mentioiUHi 
by  ( 'a])taiii  J-Joss  in  bsb'^,  and  as  part  of  the  ])i-o<i.'i';nnme  he  had 
laid  doA\'ii  t'oi-  himself,  a  \'isit  to  that  intei'c.-ling  s])ot  was 
imdei'takeii.  On  May  27.  ]S\)\.  Peary  localeil  this  ivmai'k- 
;i!ile  meteorite.  l(>;i\'ing  ;i  cairn  with  recoi'ds  at  a  short  ihstancc^ 
f.'o!!i    the    -pot. 

lu  the  memitime,  Astru])  had  made  a  sucr-e--ful  -ledge 
joi;nie>'  and  recoiuioi-sance  of  Meb'iile  P)ay.  and  ciii'efully 
cliMiiing  much  oi'  it  <  hitherlo  lit  t  le-known  norlhea-tern  <hore. 

Tlie  la-t  of  .bily,  the  F'llco//,  with  a  ])art>'  of  scieviti-ts 
;ibo:irik  in  eluding,  ;imong  others,  Pro|'c-.<or  T.  ( '.  (  'Imml  jerlin, 
Pro!(--oi-  Win.  Libbev,  Jr.,  H.  i^.  Pridgnum.  and  Mi's.  Pe;u-\-'s 


■m^^_    wiiirMafc.; 


Cn  ,  ', ./  ,,/•  /■.  .1,  .s',,;-,  .  (  ,,„     ,,  I 

('aUJX    VAULC'i'VA)    ()\"KU    TlIK     \\n\)Y    UV    M\];\"l\ 


4t'>2  THE    Gin-JAT     WlUTi:    yoUTII 

brother,  Eiriil  Dieljitsch,  anchored  in  ]\r(,"orrnick  Bay. 
Alter  a  sojourn  in  iKjrtliern  water,-,  it  returned  to  the  United 
State.-,  carrying  on  board  the  entire  Pear\'  part}',  witli  tlie 
exception  oi  tlic  indoniitaljle  leader  and  tA\-(.)  c(jnipani(jn>,  Lee 
and  Henson.  Peary's  rcr-oiu'ce-  were  hniited;  food  and  fuel 
^\•ere  reduced  so  as  to  menace  future  acti\-ities.  and  the  vi.-it 
of  ;i  relief  slhp  in  the  summer  of  b^'.i.j  depended  practically 
tipon  Alr^.  Peary's  sole  exejtions.  Xevcrtlielc-s.  Peary  deter- 
mined to  remain,  and,  immediately  enii>tin<i,'  the  nati^'es  to 
a-^i^t  him,  he  dr(,'W  on  the  count r\-  fui'  his  >upplies. 

The  fall  was  occupied  in  the  ch;i>e  after  reind.eer  and  Arctic 
hare  for  luiinun  ftjod,  and  walru-  meat  f(.)r  the  diogs  ;  and 
later  an  examination  and  rehabilitat 'miu  <jf  the  nearer  caches 
of  pr(j\'isions   left   on   the   Inland    Ice. 

The  monotonoTis  winter  ]")a--ed.  and  a-  tlie  -jirino-  aah'anced 
the  da\'  of  de])arture  a])]jroache(l  for  t!ie  next  great  journey 
aero--  the  (ireeidand  ice.  On  April  2,  Is!*.',  the  little  band, 
consi>ting  of  it>  intrepid,  leader,  v.-'iii  [,ee  and  nen>on,  four 
iuiti\-e>,  and  tlie  six  slediges  with  theii'  dog  teams,  started 
nortliAvard. 

ddie  fie]-ce  storm<  of  A\inter  had  obliterateil  the  marked 
cache-:  !!i  \'am  wa-;  the  iiiiuc' hate  neiiJibo'iflauMl  -coured  in 
e\'ery  dhreetion.  -oiiictime-  To  a  '!'-1;i!ie('  of  h\'e  mi!e<  ;  ikj 
sig!!-    of    the    lo»)k''(l-fo]'   depots    could    b'C    d.i-c(i\-ei'ed. 

Though  hi-kimos  de<erieil  and  turneil  baef:,  Peaiy  still 
])U-he(l  niu  at  la-t  left  with  oiily  the  tA\"o  (ninujanioii-,  some 
forty  doL!'-  and  three  -ledge-,  d'iii'  ]iro-^])ee-  A\-a-  inileed  di-- 
l'i:il.  I.ee  beeauic  di-;!bied  by  f  iM-t -bit  <•- :  the  dog-  died:  the 
gaunt  fociii  of  -^ar'.'al  ioii  lootiK-d  on  the  hoiizou.  Ma>'  >. 
h'-e  conM  prod'cd  no  fai'thei-,  nud  av;i-  L-ft  in  cam]),  di-tant 
-onie  -iv-tc^n  mile-  from  tlie  eo;i-t.  A\^l!i!e  Peai'y  aJid  Hen-on 
ad\"aee(-(i  in  liie  de-])era'e  -e;ire'i  lor  L:;inie.  ]-'our  d;i\'-  and 
ni'iTt-  di'.'iili  ''\^  -i;ir\'ai'on  fae^o'  I'lM^Ui.  in  ihe  fruit!i--<  -eareh 
for  fond.      Tiion.  di--e  ipoin;  rd,  baei,   o  i  eaiiU  ».  Mid  ad'--t)erale 


^^3| 


I 


1,   :;*• 


^  -^  •*  ■ 


? 
^ 


s. 


^***^.-^ 


Camp  M(Jiii;i<  .)i;si-i' 


SrMMKR     VO  VAGUS,     lSl>'J-lS'i7  403 

march  to  Indcpciidcnco  i3a}'.  Then  <1oavii  tiie  tortuous  val- 
1(»\',  across  r(.)cks,  col)l)k>,  and  boulcicr,  the  men  plunged  on. 
'"A  lew  mile.-,  beyond  the  v;dle}',  I.  sav,'  a  fresh  hare  track/' 
^^ays  Pear\';  "and  a  few  hundred  \-ards  beyond  came  upon  tlu; 
hare  itself,  scjuatting  among  the  rocks  a  few  paces  distant. 
\\'ith  th(>  sight  (_)f  the  beautiful  si)otl('ss  little  animal,  the  feel- 
ing of  emptiness  in  the  region  of  my  stomach  increased.  I 
called  to  Alatt,  who  was  S(jme  little  distance  back,  to  sto])  the 
dogs  and  c(_)me  uj)  with  his  rifle.  lie  Vv'as  so  affected  by  the 
pros])(>ct  of  a  good  sui)per,  his  hr<t  and  second  bullets  missed 
the  mark,  but  at  the  third  the  v/hite  object  collapsed  into  a 
sha])(>less  mass,  and  on  the  instant  gaunt  hungcn-  leapt  ui)on 
us  like  a  Avolf  upon  its  prey.  .  .  .  It  was  tlie  first  full  meal 
we  had  had  >ince  the  Eskimos  left  us  tliirty-hA-e  days  ag(j.'' 

Later  nmsk-ox  fell  to  th(>  hunter's  aim,  which  restored 
courage  ;i,;id  strength  to  tlie  (les])erate  men.  They  reached 
the  cairn  ^vhich  Peary  had  erecte(l  in  1892,  and  found  the 
papers  1her(>  still  intact.  To  linger  in  the  vicinity  meant  a 
constaiit  consuni]ition  of  hjod  for  A\iiich  tliey  were  not  ])re- 
p;ired.  Idiere  wa-  yet  the  long  joui'ney  back  (jver  the  d.rcad 
ice-caj).  eight  thousand  feet  abo\-e  the  level  of  the  sea.  ^\'ith 
nine  diog-,  and  food  for  seventeen  da\'s  onl\',  they  rc^traeed 
tiieir  ste])s,  fleeing  in  forced  marches,  from  that  ever  present 
gaunt  form,  Stai'\-ation,  closing  u])on  their  wake. 

One  i;y  one  the  faithful  d<jgs  died  h\  the  wayside.  This 
n^treat  over  the  fd-eat  Ic(>  is  one  of  the  most  de>])er;._te 
strugu'les  in  Arctic  history.  At  la-t.  .June  25.  the  tlnce 
st;tr\"iim'.  (■xh:i,n<ted  men  reaehe*}  P,<A\"d<iiii  Bay.  "At  the 
begimiing  of  the  hist  day  there  wei-e  left  foiir  hn-cuits,  sa\-e(l 
fi'om  tli!"  half  and  (juarter  rations  of  the  jirecedin.g  week-: 
aiid  one  I  log  was  still  ali\-c>,  the  sole  survi\"or  of  a  pack  of 
foi-ty-t\\o,"' 

"Poor  brute!"  says  Peary,  ''the  metnory  of  tl!os(^  famine 
da\'s  upon  the  '  ( !reat  Ice'  remained  so  vividly  with  him,  that 


4(')4  THE    ailEAT     WHITE    MOUTH 

for  weeks  after  our  return,  tliougli  weak  and  afflicted  like 
oui'sel\'(\s,  li(i  nii<^lit  he  seen  at  any  time,  wlicn  not  asleep, 
liidiiig  away  ev("ry  l)it  of  moat  or  blubber,  and  every  bone 
that    he  could  find  about  the  place." 

A  few  wec^ks  of  recu])eration  fitted  the  men  for  the  journey 
honu^,  and  relief  shi])  Kik,  in  charge  of  Captain  Bartlett, 
i'e;ic!ied  tliem  in  early  August. 

in  hSOO  and  1897,  Peary  made  two  sunnner  voyages  to  tlie 
Arctic  for  the  })in'pose  of  transferring  to  the  Unitcnl  St;it(\s  the 
largest  of  tlie  three  Cape  A^ork  meteoi'it(\s.  On  the  first  tri]) 
he  was  succ(^ssfu]  in  dislodgiiig  this  ninety-ton  mass  from  tlie 
ice  gri])  of  centuries,  but  was  com])elled  to  leave  it  until  tlic; 
next  season,  wIkmi  he  succc^ssfully  had  it  transferred  to  the 
hold  of  the  Hope,  the  Peary  ship  of  that  year,  and  the  woi'ld 
wonder  now  )'e})()ses  in  the  AIuscMun  of  Xatm'al  Ilistor}-,  Xev\' 
York  City. 

Dui'ing  these  active  years  Peary  had  made  warm  fricMwls, 
men  who  had  said  to  him  with  the  saiu(>  confidence^  ex])r(\'^sed 
\)\  ^dieodore  Hooscn'clt,  "1  believe  in  you,  Peary,"  and  tlie 
Peai'y  Arctic  Club  was  formcMJ,  headed  by  that  generous 
benefactor,  Aforris  K.  .h^sup,  as  President,  l''rederick  P.  liyde, 
\'ice-i'r(>sid(Mit,  If(Mn-y\\'.  CaUinou,  Pre;isure]',  aud  IlerlxM't 
h.  I)ridgma,n,  Secretary,  and  others  1o  l(Mid  encotiragemcMit 
and  financial  aid. 

I'cary's  ambitions  had  not  be(Mi  satisfiiMJ  by  his  brilliant 
;i."hie\'enients  in  twice  crossing  1  he  Creenhmd  ice-ca]),  and  tlu^ 
hu'c  of  the  Arclic  had  long  !)eck()ned  him  to  try  to  reach  the 
noi'lhei-nmost  cxti'(>niity  of  tlie  earth. 

i  lis  journey  of  IS'tS  to  1!)()2  undei"  the  aus])ices  of  tlu^  Pearly 
Aictic^  ( 'lub  had  i'oi'  its  main  ])ui'])ose  the  attainmeid  of  th.e 
Pule  itself.  His  carefully  L'lid  plan  "was  to  adwance  tow;ird 
the  ]\)le  by  the  west  coast  of  (ireeniand,  and  establisli  food 
^iMtions,  de])ending  u\m<\\  pick(Ml  I'^kimos  for  C()()])ei'at  ion 
'.iMi   hi-  sin;i!!  ])a!'1>'.      In   tlie  iinal  dash,  su])])orting  sledges 


■^! 


FEARV    SElUOrSLV    DISABLED    BY    FROST-mTES       405 

would  bo  sent  back  as  soon  as  emptied,  and  the  returning 
explorer,  with  two  companions,  would  be  nu^t  by  a  relief  party 
of  Eskimos. 

Air.  Harmsworth  of  London  generously  gave  his  yacht,  the 
Windicard,  for  this  (>xpecUtion.  Peary  started  with  every 
prospect  of  success.  The  Windward  endeavoured  to  force  a 
l)assag(!  into  Kennedy  Channel,  but  was  obliged  to  seek 
shelter  and  winter  quarters  at  Cape  D'Orvillc.  In  early 
autumnal  journeys  Peary  determined  the  continuity  of  Elles- 
mere  and  Crinnell  lands,  and  prepared  to  make  his  head- 
quarters at  Fort  Conger.  In  January,  1899,  came  a  sudden 
and  most  disheartening  set-back  to  his  anil)itious  plans. 
While  on  this  dangerous  sledge  journey,  in  a  frightful  tem- 
perature that  ranged  between  51°  to  63°  below  zero,  he  had 
both  feet  badly  frozen,  and  this  grave  injury,  which  nearly 
cost  him  his  life,  resulted  in  the  amputation  of  eight  toes ; 
but  not  before  weeks  of  suffering  had  been  passed  in  the 
melancholy  winter  darkness  at  Grecly's  old  cjuarters. 

"During  the  following  weeks,"  writes  Peary,  "our  life  at 
Conger  was  pronouncedly  d  la  Robinson  Crusoe.  Searching 
for  things  in  the  unbroken  darkness  of  tlie  'Great  Xight,'  with 
a  tiny  flicker  of  flame  in  a  saucer,  was  very  like  seeking  a 
needle  in  a  haystack."  At  last,  on  the  ISth  of  Fel:)ruary,  in  the 
moonlight,  they  started  l)ack  to  the  ship.  LashcHl  firmly 
down,  with  f(H;t  and  legs  wra]^ped  in  nuisk-ox  skin,  P(>ary  was 
dragged,  in  the  cold  Arctic  night,  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  in  eleven  days. 

Dislieartening  weeks  of  inaction  and  suff(ning  aboard  the 
Wiitdtranl,  l)ut  partially  restored  his  health  ;  nevertheless, 
in  April,  while  still  on  crutches,  he  was  di'agged  on  sledges 
to  Fort  Conger.  This  season  was  ])a'^sed  in  scicMitific  work 
and  map  making.  Wliile  crossing  EUesmere  Land  ic(^-cap 
in  July,  at  an  (4e\'ation  of  seven  thousand  feet,  Peary  dis- 
covered Cannon  Bay. 

2  H 


4-t'iti 


TIIK    a  HEAT     WHITE    yoitTII 


Otlici'  results  of  Ills  iiul('fati<ial)l('  cndcax'ours  wcro  tlie  col- 
Icctinu'  <»l'  relics  oi  the  Lady  Franklin  I'.ay  cxjX'dition,  which 
vrcrc  >v\\\  home  ])}•  the  \V i ndiranl ,  the  >('xtant  and  I'cctjrd  of 
the  Xai'es  expedition  were  also  found  and  sent  hack  to  he 
pre-ented  t(^  the  Lords  of  the  Adniiralt\'  (^f  (ireat  Iji'itjiin. 
and  ])laced  in  the  Museum  of  the  Koyal  Xaval  (,'olle<ic  at 
( ireen\\"ich. 

h^ach  .-eason  a  vessel  was  sent  to  rireenland  to  carr}'  him 
su])plies,  and  hring  hack  letters.  Small  ])aities  (^f  <cie!!ti>t<, 
university  students,  and  hunters  to<»k  ad\'anta,u'e  of  the 
o])])oi'tunity  to  >ail  north  and  he  left  a1  \"arious  ])(jints,  to  he 
called    foi'  on   the   \'es-el's   return. 

In  l>h'.l.  Dr.  Lohert  Stein  of  the  Liiited  States  f  leolouical 
Sui'X'ey.  Dr.  Leo])old  Kami  of  ( Vjrnelh  and  Mr.  Samuel  W'ai'm- 
hath  had  taken  ])a-saji;e  in  the  Peary  >u])])ly  .-hi])  iJinmi 
for  ex])loration<  in  Idlesmere  Land. 

Li  the  hd!  of  h*^l)0.  tiie  W i iirhnrrfl  I'eturned  to  the  rnit-'i 
State-.  lea\'in,i!;  Pear\'  in  hJah,  whei'('  he  I'emained  until  the 
foljow-jiio;  ]\Lti'ch,  \\-lien  he  j(juriieyed  to  l-"ort  ('on,u<'r.  ami 
froin  thei'c  made  hi>  noilhern  da>h  in  an  a1tem])t  to  reach  the 
Po!'\  The  ex)")loi'('i'  folioAve(I  clo-ely  the  I'oute  laid  doAvn  hy 
])('ain;i.rd  and  LockA\-ood.  and,  on  May  s,  heat  their  reroi-(l  : 
l.i'fr  lie  |-eached  tlie  mo-1  northprn  i)o!:;t  of  land  to  which  he 
^a.e  the  na.me  of  ('a])e  Ah)rri-  K.  .Ie-up,  "^-'i'  -VJ'  X.  I'Vom 
■!:i-  ])oiiit  hi<  tra\"e|  \\-as  o\-er  the  ili-int eii.'ratin,u'  ])olar  ])ark, 
a.M  ad\"aiice  of  "  rid^e-  of  hea\"y  ice  tkrown  u])  to  keiuLl-  of 
1wenty-fi\-('  to  fifty  t'cet,  (•i'c\-a--e-  and  hojc-  nia-ked  :  ly  -now, 
the  whole  in t er-ec1  i-d  hy  narrow  lead-  of  ojx'u  wa*er."  Ihi\'- 
inii'  i-each<'d  '^'■V'^  ~>\'  \..  he  t  hen  rd  urnci  i  t  o  (  'ape  Morri-  Je-uj) 
and  follo\\-ed  the  cna-t  ot'  Me|\-il!c  Land  for  -ome  di-t;!nce, 
1  hen  !viui'ned  <oulh.  in  I'.tOl .  he  atti-nii)ted  a  no'  Imt  nort  iiern 
JMiinicy.  hui   found  adwince  ini]j(K-.-ilile  ;ifier  reachinu'  Lincohi 


ida.wnted  h\-  failure,  hi-  next  ;iiti-nn)t  wa-  m.ade  in  f-'ehiMi- 


I'OLAll    EXrt:i)ITI<>X    IS    s.  S.    "  R<JOSEVELr"      407 

ary,  1!)()2,  and  reached,  April  21,  84°  17'  N.,  hut  aj^'aiu  he  was 
forced  l)a('k,  after  risking  his  own  hfe  and  that  of  his  com- 
panions over  the  worst  ice  he  had  ever  enc<juntered.  AIo- 
mentarily  (hscoui-aged,  he  wrote  at  this  time  :  ""llie  game  is 
off.  Aly  dream  of  sixtecni  years  is  ended.  I  have  made  the 
l)est  fight  I  knew.  I  believe  it  has  l)een  a  good  one.  But 
I  cjuniot  accom])lish  tlu^  impossil)le." 

After  four  years  of  strenuous  endeavour  in  the  face  of  tlie 
most  dishearttniing  failure,  P(^ary  came  hack  to  tlie  I'nited 
Stat(v.  took  courage  once  mor(\.  rencAved  the  losing  fight,  and 
]4anned  his  s(n"entli  voyage  into  the  Arctic. 

I'nder  \\\i'  aus])ices  of  the  Peai'y  Ai'ctic  (4uh.  a  model  slii]) 
was  Imilt  for  the  sole  ])ur])ose  of  assi-ting  Peary  in  accom- 
plisliiug  the  woi'k  u])on  which  he  had  set  his  heart,  la\'ish(>(l 
iii-^  fortune,  and  staked  th(^  conhdence  of  his  friends.  44ie 
re>ult  was  the  building  of  the  Rnoscrvlt,  th(^  most  modern  of 
ice-fighters.  Idie  ])lans  for  the  I'otiscrelf  allowed  a  length  of 
our  hundr('d  and  eighty-four  by  thirty-fiv(>  feet  beam  and 
sixtiM'n  feet  draft,  headed.  She  wa-<  ]:)rovided  with  engines 
cy])able  of  de\'eloi)ing  one  thous;ind  h()rse-])ower  ;  sh(>  cai'i'ied 
a  light  three-masted  scliooner  rig.  Her  hull  was  es])eciall}' 
desigiK^d  to  r(\<i<t  the  terrific  ])ressure  of  the  ice-fl(X's.  and  of 
such  shaj^e  to  lift  easily  fi-om  tIk^  ti-eaclKM'ous  ic(^  cradles  in 
which  sill-  v\-as  ex])ected  t(.)  test  h(>r  resisting  (lualities.  In  this 
si^lendid  craft.  Peary  starte(l  north  in  1!K)."):  and  boldly 
])lough('d  the  llnosvrdt  farther  than  any  \'essi'l  had  x'ct  ])ene- 
trate(l,  reacliing  nearly  S2"  'MY  north  latitude  on  the  noi'th 
eoa>t  of  (h'lmt  Land.  The  I'onsprdf  wintei'ed  at  ( "a])e  She''i- 
>lan,  and  from  this  high  latitude  Pcai-y  started  in  l'ebru;<r\', 
PlOli,  for  the  Pol<\  1-A'er\ihing  seeme(l  fa\-ourab!e.  ini- 
proA'cd  ef  jui])m(Mil .  I^skimo  as<!<taiice.  Avell-laid.  cuclies.  and 
Pea!\\'  him-elf  full  of  the  et<'rnal  N'igour.  whidi,  in  s])ite  nf 
ye;u'>  of  h.ardsliip.  ga\'e  to  his  mind  and  body  th(>  ela-^ticity 
of  \()uth. 


4ns  THE    GUEAT     WHITE    XOUTH 

(Jii  —  across  the  iutcrminublo  (jhstaclcs  —  on  —  past  one 
dcLcrcc  ainl  then  aiiollicr,  ^\•ith  the  {■\'('r  jjrcscnt  ])robl('ni  of 
(•(jltl,  storm,  rou}j;li  ic(\,  and  (liniiuishiu,u-  l'<jo(l,  until  finally  the 
foi'ccs  (jf  nature  haillcd  once  a<i'ain  the  forces  oi  human 
strcnii'th.  At  >7"  0',  the  uncoin})romi.-imi  x'oices  of  the  North 
ci'ifd  out,  "'This  far  shalt  th<ju  come,  and  ikj  farther."     Jiack 

once  mor( -tc])  by  >tc]i  —  over  hummock,  crevasse,  and  floe, 

over  thin  and  treacher(jtis  ice,  acro>s  tlichiii'  lead  \vhos(^  thin, 
undulatiuu'  -urface,  some  two  miles  in  wiilth,  barely  sup])orted 
the  weiu'lit  (^f  a  man.  in  hi<  frantic  rac<'  'with  death. 

Ijack  once  more  to  the  south.  ba([;c(l  once  more  in  his 
scheme-,  but  >terner  than  ever  in  the  ])ur])Ose  to  ilie  or  win 
"becau-e  the  tliii!,<i;  he  ha-  >et  Ihm.^ejf  to  d(;  is  a  part  (jf  his 
beinii;."  ]\'ary  returned  to  the  I'liiteil  States,  the  ])lans 
(jf  hi.-  ei.L!.ht!i  and  final  journey  already  maturing  in  his 
mind. 

The  Hunsirdf  was  d^ocked  for  th(>  pur]:)Ose  of  repairs. 
Funds  for  thi-  la-t  journe}'  were  >Iow  in  foi't hcomino-.  E\-ery 
ex])e(!ieiit  wa-  tridl.  but,  thou,uh  a  -ub-tantial  sum  was  raisecl, 
there  -ijll  lacked  money  to  c();ii])ic^ c  the  Avork,  pr(j\"ision  and 
equip  the  ex])edition .  an.d  to  ])a\'  the  ciu'i'ent  ex])en-es  of  the 
tri]).  In  the  mi(!.-;t  of  tiie-^c  ])er])ii'.\i!!U-  ])ro]il."nis,  I'eary 
i'ecei\-c(l  aniither  ]i[(i\v  in  tlie  !ie\\-,.  of  the  (!,-a?li  of  Mr.  Morris 
K.  .le-iip.  hi-  Liio-t  liberal  -u]n)orfer.  W'iiij  hi-  death  all 
-rciiif'd  lo-t  ;  tlic  (larlvc-t  hour  of  di-ci  )iir;iu'emcnt  had  come; 
delay-  of  moiilh-  mi'ieit  ])erhap>  li;e  (|e|;iy  of  years,  or,  ])os- 
.-ibly.  the  eiit  ire  ab;:  !ii  loiiiiiciit  of  thj-  hi-t  \"oyau'e  —  the  \'oy- 
it'Sf  of  the  hii-iMrii  ho])c.  }'i'ov(  d)i;i!l\-  the  darke-t  hour  is 
ju-t  bffdfc  daA\'n.  ;ind  the  I'eary  Arctic  ( 'lub.  um'er  it-  p.eAV 
pr'--!d''iit .  '  h'lK^ra.l  Thuma-  If.  HulAard.  recci\-f(l  a  liberal 
cln'ck.  t  eii.ii-rei  I  by  Ml'.  Zcna-  ^  'v:\  n'.  tin'  ])a](cr  majiufad  urer 
of  Ma--;e-h;i-c1 1 -.  A'hii'h  -'iddiihx'  !'c!it  ;i-uiidei'  the  -ombre 
cloii'b   ;i!id   -hoA\r(i   iipcc   uinyf   th'ii'  -iK'cr   linimr. 

lh'h--.'ed  ..f  ih-  M|.e1;il  ;,::\i-)v  which  had  been  hi-c,,n-1ant 


:■'  ~  i-!it  t'r,,iii  it-  l''.il!U  iiKirlv  :ill  llic  ■■  1'  ir'ii,---  "  XmI'I  ii-i'ti  I'.iini-  ^  I'  llic  W'l  -liin 
li'  lii-|.iiiiv  :  1  .■ili-i  L'  wriv  h-il  at  (  'i!,'  M^'Vy'-  .l---\\]>:  '■',  :M  (':i|>'  TliMni;!- 
Il:|!>'.-;|-.!:    I  :!l  C::;!-  '  ■.JuMilii:!:   .",  at   l'.;,r\'-  r';,ri!i.  M    Xcrtli.    IIMKI     s7    ,;     .-,,,,1 

(i   at    ill,'    X.il'lll    I'dic. 


FINAL    DASH    FOR     THE    POLE,     lUOS 


4G9 


com])aniou  for  mouths,  Peary  now  luirricd  his  final  prepara- 
tions, and,  rej(jieini2;  in  his  gxiod  fortune,  steamed  out  of  New 
York  fuirfj(nir,  July  6,  190.S,  in  tli(,'  <;-allant  Hoos^evelt,  wiili 
her  ])enants  fi\"in<^  bravely  to  the  l;reeze.  Peary,  now  ^rown 
old  in  Arctie  service,  sailed  to  the  Great  AMiite  Xorth,  this 
time  to  reach  his  Roal. 


NORTH*  POLE 


Conrt>,;i„f  B.nj< 


a.  //', 


./  /•• 


S'nl:,  .<  Co. 

TllK    Kol'TK    TAKLX    I;Y    C'U-M-MA.\J)Klt    I'i;AliY    IX    I'.lUS 


CHAPTER   XX  rv 

Dr.  Frr-dcrick  A.  Cook.  —  ( 'lainis  (lisco\-ci'y  of  tlic  P()l(>.  —  His  rfturn 
from  the  Arctic.  —  PLCCcption  by  tlic  D;un'S.  -  -  .Vnnsvincciiicni  of 
coiKiui'-t  of  tlic  Pole  Ijv  Peary. — DcnouiUH^^  Dr.  Cook.  -- D(-lay 
of  Dr.  Cook  To  jiroduce  liis  data.  Acccjjtancc  of  Pcai'\-'s 
ciaiins  l)y  the  American  Ceoti'rapliical  ."-^ociely. —  Di'.  Cook  fiiiallv 
-ends  manu.-cript  to  Coi)eulia<i-en. -- \'erdict. --  Pri(jr  claim  t(j  1  lie 
di.^cuvery  of  the  Xorth  Pole,  — Xot  ])ro\-en. 

TifK  annouiicciriout  in  the  Xcir  Yarl:  Ih mid  un  Septemlior 
D  ]<)()!),  of  the  (li-covcry  of  tlic  Xorth  i^)lc  l)y  J)r.  Frederick 
.\.  Cook,  of  Broo]vl\'n,  X^'cav  A  ork.  u.-toundcd  \\\v  cixdlizeil 
A\"orl(!.  I'"i)r  >onie  \'('ars  Dr.  ( "ookC  iiauie  had  keen  a-sociated 
with  Arctic  (■nter])ri.-e,  hut  t(j  the  majority  of  the  ])iihlic  his 
iiaitic  wa-  straiiu'c. 

Tn  tlie  -UJiimor  of  P)()7.  Cook  had  accoiii])ani('(l  Air.  Jolm 
\{.  Ih'adley  in  tliat  j;"eutleinaii'>  \'ac}it  in  an  excursion  after 
hic' .U'aiiic  heyoiui  the  Arctic  (  drcje  Later  ATr.  Piradley  -ailed 
home.  lea\dn_ii'  Cook  with  a  fail'  -u])])ly  of  ])ro\dsio!i-  and 
efiuiiimetit.  and  one  A\dhte  coni])ani(  m,  a  ( iernmn-Amei'ican 
na.mi'd  I'd'ancke. 

Cn  Aharidi  s.  PIO'v.  Coolc  left  Aimooktok.  a(*CMm])anicd  hy 
e!e\-en  men  and  one  hundrecl  and  three  doe--,  A\-itli  the  a\'oA\-ed 
|)Mrj)o-e  of  reaidiiuL!;  the  l^)le.  kd'ancj^e  remained  at  .Vimook- 
tok.  A\'ith  instruction-  to  retm-n  to  the  Dnited  Stat(--  in  ca-o 
Conk  (lid  not  ret  iH'ii  hy  Jime.  I')()s. 

New-  of  ('ook'.-  (h'])ai'tui'e  foj-  the  X'orth  Pole  had  mean- 
A'.diile    arou-ed    intei-i-t    in    the    Dnited    Slates.      One   of    the 

1711 


nis  hi:ti'i:n  fuom   the  arctkj  471 

ohjiM'ts  of  Coninuiiulcr  Peary's  ex])e(liti()n  of  1908  ^vus  "'Tho 
I'lciicf  and  llescu(>  of  Dr.  Frederick  A.  Cook."  I'hc^  hig 
r-upply  station  at  Etah  was^  in  fact,  e>tai)lislied  by  him  mainly 
for  the  heneflt  of  Dr.  Cook,  ^^llen  the  Iiooscrelt  and  Erik 
;u'ri\-ed  at  Annookt(jk  on  August  7,  1908,  Francke  was  found 
ill  a  "pitialde  condition,  and  he  begged  to  })e  sent  "home."  lie 
\\;i>  returiied  in  the  /:/■/'/;  (connnanded  by  Captain  Bartlett), 
and  from  St.  J(jhn"s,  Xewfoundland,  sent  out  th(^  news  that 
Co<jk  had  probably  })erished  on  his  way  to  the  J'ole. 

This  announcement  ai'oused  so  much  interest  that  earh'  in 
August,  1909,  a  relief  ship  left  St.  Jolm's  for  the  pur])ose  of 
searcliing  for  Dr.  Cook  and  for  carrying  provisions  to  Peary. 
Xcws  tra\'els  slowly  ''north  of  oS,"  and  meanwhile  Cook  had 
I'eturued. 

In  A])ril,  1909,  a  Avhite  man  and  tw(j  Eskimos  appeared  at 
t'le  relief  >tation  at  Armooktok,  the  station  innnediately  north 
of  l^t;di.  The  tlu'ee  were  utterly  fatigued  and  wvrv  made  as 
comh.)rtabk'  as  ])ossil)le  l)y  the  men  mIioju  ('ommander 
Peary  had  left  behind.  A  few  days  later  Cook  left  Annooktok 
for  South  ( ireenland,  whence  he  took  steamer  for  ( 'openhagen. 

De-patches  from  the  Shetland  I>land-.  the  la-t  of  August, 
1909,  proclaimcMl  that  Dr.  Cook  luid  reached  tlu^  Pole  in 
A])i'il,  1908.  ( 'o<.)k  declared  h.is  njute  to  ha\'e  been  by  Smith 
Soun(h  across  ]-]ll(Nmere  Land,  to  Xansen  Sound  ;  to  Lan.d's 
Ijid,  thence  by  Ca])e  Thomas  Hubb;ird.  whicl;  he  left  in 
Abu'cli,  ]908,totlie  Pole,  four  hundrcMl  and sixt\' miles  distant, 
^\'hich  he  chiims  to  have  i-fvicluvl  on  A])ril  21,  19()S. 

The  familiar  stoi'\'  of  his  welcome  at  C()])enh:ig(>n  needs  not 
to  be  retold  here.  ]\Ieainvhile  canu^  a  des])[itch  to  the  Xew 
]  or!:  7  u/ic-^ :  — 

■"I  ha\"e  the  Pole,  April  (>.  Fx])ect  arriv(^  ( 'hateau  Bay, 
S(^])temb(M;  7.  Secure  control  wire  f'.)r  me  there  a'ld  a!'r;uige 
ex])edite  transmission  big  >torv.  ,,  ,^ 

'  Pf.AtiY. 


472  THE  CHEAT   white  xortii 

At  ]^)uttl('  Harlior,  ( 'oinmaudcr  Peary  Ic^arned  of  Cook's 
claim  to  have  rcaclK-d  the  Pole.  iUit  Peai'\'  had  carried  north- 
ward a  nuiiiner  of  I^skiiiKj.s,  with  theii'  wi\'e.s  and  children, 
and  these  h(^  had  led  safel}'  hack  asain  to  l']tah.  However, 
the  (ireenland  winter  was  a])])r(jachin^',  and  lie  lin<!,-ered  at 
Ktah,  oi'ganizing  a  \\'alrus  hunt  which  su])ijlied  his  faithful 
eoni])any  with  food  for  the  coining  3'ear.  Xot  till  this 
])r(j\"i>i(jn  was  made  did  he  set  his  face  toward  the  United 
States. 

A  shadow  of  doui)t,  hardly  bigger  tlian.  a  num's  hand,  which 
was  cast  hy  a  part  of  the  scientific  W(M'ld  at  the  Doctor's  first 
amiounccnient.  soon  grew  int(j  what  e\'entiially  proved  to  be 
a  clou(ll)urst.  X(_)  contr(rversy  in  the  history  (jf  modern  times 
ha-  caused  more  gf^neral  excitement.  Soon  tlu;  two  prin- 
cipals were  ])ursuing  their  separate  activities  und(M'  very  dis- 
similar conditions.  Dr.  C'ook  was  lecturing  in  the  United 
States,  facing  paeked  houses,  inter\iewing  re])orters,  a-^sert- 
ing  his  claim--,  promising  proofs  of  his  a<<(M-tions.  Peary 
])referred  to  prc^sent  his  own  claims  to  the  di-covery  of  the 
I'ole  in  terse  langiiagc.  tlie  hi'st  announcement  ])ubli>he(l  in 
the  Xar  Yorl:  Tii/irs  reading:  — 

''  S/i/n//ini'//  (if  Xo'/ifi  PdJnr  I:\rj)(  nilion  of  Ihc  Pcnri/  Arciic 
Chih:  Tlie  -teamer  li'nnsirHt  h'\\  Xew  "i'ork  on  .July  0,  lOOS; 
left  Sidney  on  .Jul\'  17:  arri\-ed  at  ('a])e  Vi)rl<,  (b-eenland, 
Augu-t  1:  left  fitah.  ( d'ccniand.  .\ugu-t  S:  a.rri\-ed  ("a])e 
Sheiidan,  at  ^Ir'ant  Land.  S('])n-mb('r  1  :  A\-iiit  ci'ed  at  ( 'a])e 
Sheridan,  ddie  sledge  <'\pcdii  lun  left  t\ic  I'lmstn  II  lo'bi'uary 
lo.  1<.)()!).  and  -tartcd  un-  the  Xorth.  Arrix'cil  at  (  "ajx'  ( 'o- 
hinibia.  Mai'di  !  :  V);,--cil  h'n'iti.-^h  '■'"•ord.  March  2  :  di-Iaycd  by 
o])cii  walcr.  .Ma.rch  2  and  ■'!  :  hciJ  u])  by  open  A\'atci',  Alai'ch 
1  t(i  li  :  (■rn-~cd  {h.-  slth  ])a.ra_i;('l,  Mai-cli  11  :  ciu  ountercd 
o])(-n  l";id,  .Mar'U  lo  ;  rro-;--;',;  s.'th  ])arallcl.  AFarch  IS; 
(■ri,~-r<\  xi'i'h  ])ara!l(']  Maivii  2-5  :  cacduntei'cd  <)])cn  lead  Alardi 
2-1  :     ])a-i-.!    X.)i'\\-agia!i    ivmi'd    .Mai'cli    2:!:     pa--cd    Palian 


COOK    SENDS    MANUSCRIPT    TO    COPENHAGEN     473 

record  March  24 ;  encoiintored  o]:>en  load  j\Iarch  26 ; 
crossed  S7th  parallel  March  27 ;  passed  American  record 
Alarch  28;  encountered  open  lead  March  28;  held  up  by 
o])en  water  March  29  ;  crossed  88th  parallel  April  2  ;  crossed 
8i)th  parallel  April  4;  North  Pole  April  6  All  returning 
left  North  Pole  April  7 ;  reached  Cape  Columbia  April  23 ; 
arriving  on  board  Roosevelt  April  27.  The  Roosevelt  left  Cape 
Sheridan  July  18 ;  passed  Cape  Sabine  August  8 ;  left  Cape 
York  August  26 ;  arrived  at  Indian  Harbor  with  all  members 
of  the  expe(Ution  returning  in  good  liealtli,  except  Professor 
Poss  Cx.  ■Marvin,  unfortunately  drowned  April  10,  when 
forty-five  miles  north  of  Cape  Columbia,  returning  from 
86°  north  latitude  in  command  of  the  supporting  party. 

"Robert  E.  Peary." 

Immediately  upon  his  return  to  the  United  States,  Peary 
joined  his  family  at  their  summer  home  in  ]\Iaine,  offering 
to  submit  his  proofs  at  once  to  any  competent  body.  The 
National  G(H)graphic  Society  accepting  the  offer,  }-)ro- 
nounced  favourably  upon  his  claims.  In  the  meantime, 
he  took  no  active  part  in  the  trend  of  affairs,  but  waited 
quietly  for  the  dust  to  settle. 

In  November,  Dr.  Cook  cancelled  his  lecture  engagements, 
iind  settk^l  down  to  preparing  tlie  long-delay(Ml  ])roofs  to 
]){'  submitted  as  ])romised  to  the  University  of  CopenhagcMi. 
This  accom])lished,  he  despatched  a  typewritten  copy  to  the 
University  of  Copenhagen,  Denmark.  After  careful  (lelil)era- 
tion.  tlie  l^niversity  of  Co]ienhagen  rendered  its  v(M-(lict  to 
the  world,  Avhich,  summarized  in  two  short  wortls,  left  the 
claini  of  Dr.  Frederick  A.  Cook  to  the  discovery  of  the  North 
Pole.  April  21,  1908,  Not  Proven. 


471 


CONCT.USIO.V  475 

CONCLUSION 

For  three  and  twenty  years  Rol^ert  Edwin  Peary  has 
knocked  vahantly  at  the  portals  of  Immortal  Fame  —  that 
Castle  Nowhere  —  whose  glistening  walls  of  eternal  ice  lie 
shinnnering  in  the  brilliant  sun;  whose  jewelled  towers  and 
minarets  catch  the  glint  of  sparkling  rainbows. 

The  Gates  at  last  have  opened  and  the  banquet  hall  is  set. 
Wild  Arctic  melodies  fall  grandly  upon  the  ear.  The  can- 
nonade of  glaciers  thunders  a  salute.  About  the  festive 
board  stand  the  heroes  of  tlie  past,  according  to  their  prece- 
dence antl  rank. 

Hail !  ye  Iva  Banlsen  !  Hail  !  ye  early  Norsemen  and  ye 
Danes  !  There  stand  the  Cabots,  John  the  father,  Sebastian 
the  bold  son.  There  Sir  Willoughby  and  Chancellor;  and 
old  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  and  a  host  of  others.  There 
Barentz,  there  Behring,  —  there  Henry  Hudson  and  old 
Baffin.  Three  hearty  cheers  for  Von  Wrangell,  Koss  and 
Parry  and  brave  old  Sir  John  Franklin  !  Crozier  and  his 
men  line  at  attention  and  salute  ! 

Ah  !  Elisha  Kane,  the  beauty  of  a  nol)le  soul  lies  written 
in  a  gentle  face.  Francis  Hall,  thou  dreamer,  stand  forth 
and  welcome^  the  arriving  guest.  German,  Austrian,  Nor- 
wegian and  Italian,  stand  thou  l)ehind  tlic  1)oard,  lift  liigh 
the  diamond  chalice  and  quaff  the  limpid  draft  in  honour  of  the 
liero,  for  he  comes. 

In  one  voice,  do^\^l  the  ages  goes  the  cry,  "^4//  j)r(iise  to 
hi  in  who  cofiquer.s !"  and  Peary,  entering,  bows,  and  takes  his 
seat. 


EXPLAXATIOX   OF   TERMS 

Bay-ice,  or  young  ice,  is  that  wliich  is  newly  formed  on  the  sea, 
and  consists  (jf  two  kinds,  common  bay-ice  and  pancake  ice;  the 
former  occurring  in  smooth,  extensive  sheets,  and  tlie  latter  in  small, 
circular  pieces,  with  raised  edges. 

Beset  the  situation  of  a  ship  when  closely  surrounded  by  ice. 

A  bight  is  a  bay  in  the  outlini;  of  the  ice. 

Blink.  A  peculiar  brightness  of  the  atmosphere,  often  assuming 
an  archlike  form,  which  is  generally  perceptible  over  ice  or  land 
co^"er(Ml  with  snow.  The  blink  of  land,  as  well  as  that  over  large 
quantities  of  ice,  is  usually  of  a  yellowish  cast. 

Bore.  Th(^  operation  of  "  l)oring  ''  through  loose  ice  consists  in 
entering  i^  midcr  a  press  of  sail,  and  forcing  the  ship  through  l)y 
separating  the  masses. 

Brash-ice  is  still  smaller  than  drift-ice,  and  may  be  considered 
as  the  wreck  of  other  kinds  of  ice. 

Cache.  Literally  a  hiding-place.  The  places  of  deposit  of  provi- 
sions in  Arctic  travel  are  so  called. 

A  calf  is  a  }Kjrtioii  of  ice  which  has  been  d(>pressed  by  the  same 
means  as  ;).  hummock  is  elevated.  It  is  kept  down  by  some  larger 
mass,  from  beneath  which  it  shows  itself  on  one  side. 

Drift-ice  cfjusists  of  ])ieces  less  than  floes,  of  various  shapes  and 
magnitudes. 

Field-ice,  or  a  field  of  ice,  ''  is  a  sheet  of  ice  so  extensive  that  its 
Imiits  cann.oT  be  disciM-tKHl  from  the  masthead  of  the  ship." 

Fiord.     An  :ibrupt  o])i'nin<T;  in  the  coast  lino,  ;irlmittins  the  sea. 

A  floe  is  siiDilar  to  a  field,  but  smaller,  inasnnich  a<  its  extent  ran 

be  OM'll. 

Glacier.  A  mass  of  ice  derived  from  the  atmosphere,  sometimes 
aii'iTiinci  on  1  he  s(>a. 

Heavy  and  light  are  t(">rms  attached  to  ice.  flistiiiiiuish;ible  of  its 
tliicktii'ss, 

A  hummock  i-  a  pml ulieranrc  raised  upon  any  plane  of  ice  abo\-e 

177 


478  GREAT    WHITE  X OUT  11 

tlio  coininrjri  \v\v\.  It  is  frcHjUoiitly  produced  l)y  ])r('S<uro,  where 
(jtie  piece  i-  Miueezed  upon  another,  oi'teu  >et  upon  its  ed<r(>,  and  in 
that  po^itifjn  cemented  l)y  the  frost.  Iliinnnocks  are  hkewise 
formed  by  j)ieces  of  ice  mutually  cru>hing  each  other,  the  wreck 
beinu:  lu^aped  upon  (jne  or  Ijoth  of  them.  To  hummocks.  |)rinci- 
pally,  the  ice  i.-  indebted  for  its  vai'iety  (jf  fanciful  sliape.->  and  its 
picture>(iue  appearance.  They  occui'  in  <i-reat  number^  in  heav\' 
])ack.-,  on  tlie  (■d.ires,  and  occasionall}'  in  the  middle  oX  field-  and 
iloe>.  where  they  oft(.'U  attain  the  height  of  thirty  feet  and  ujnvards. 

Ice-belt.  A  continued  marsin  of  ice.  which,  in  high  northern 
lalimde-.  adheres  to  the  c(ki>1  abo\-e  the  (^I'dinary  IcA'cl  of  the  s(-a. 

Iceberg.  A  lartrc  mass  of  solid  ice.  gcnei-dly  of  gn-at  height, 
brcid.  !i.  liUfl  thickue-s. 

Ice-foot.  Ice  ;iltache(l  t(j  the  land,  either  in  floe.'-  or  in  hea\-y 
grounded  ma-.-i'S  lyinir  near  the  shore. 

Ice-hook.     A  .-mail  ice-anchor. 

.V  lane  or  vein  i>  a  narrow  channel  of  wtttf^r  in  ])acks  or  other 
collection-  of  ici\ 

A  lead  i-  an  openiuL",  larire  or  small,  ihroiiiih  the  ice.  in  which  a 
ve--('l  can  be  aide  to  make  >ome  p,rogi'e-s  eitlier  by  -ailinsx.  tracking, 

or   t  '  IWHlLi'. 

Nipped,  ddie  situation  of  a  .-hip  when  forcibly  ])i'e-.-(nl  iiy  ice 
on  I  lotii  -ide-. 

Open-ice.  or  sailing-ice.  i-  wliC're  th(-  jiiece-  arr^  -o  ,-e]KU'at(/d  as  to 

adniit  df  a  -hij)  -aiHnir  coip.'enienily  anidnii;  tlicni. 

.\  pack  i-  a  bmly  of  (Irift-icc.  of  -ucli  i:iaiiiiii  ude  \\\■A^,  it-  extent 
i.->  not  dii-c(  riiible.  .\  ])ack  i-  hjk  n  \\-\[f\\  the  piece-  of  ir-e.  though 
xcvy  near  e.acli  other,  do  not  u'eiu-rally  touch,  or  rjnyi'l  when  ihe 
piece-  are  ill  ci  n.riolei  e  cont  aei . 

.\  patch  i-  :i  colleci  ion  of  dcift  or  bav-ice  of  a  circular  or  polyirennl 
fnrm.  In  ;ioii;i  nf  iaa'i!:it  uile.  a  p.-iejx  corre-])oiid-  \\\\\i  a  field.  ;U'.il 
a  P'ceh  wi'ha  floe. 

Pemmican.  Meat  cui'ed,  ;)iil\'erize(k  and  mixeil  wiin  fat.  contam- 
\ws  mueli  initi'imenl   in  a  -mall  comjia-s. 

Rue-raddy.     A  -lioulder-ln  It  to  drci  bv. 

Sconce  oiece-  are  biroken  fi-ie--  of  a  diametii-  le-.-:  than  half  a  mile  ; 
a  :. d.  oer;, -.;,,!;,,  :'■/,  ::o!  a  bM\-e  a  i,  and  fed  oi-  a  few  hundred  feet  . 


EXPLANATIOX   OF   TERMS  470 

Slugde  consists  of  ti  stratum  of  dctHched  ice  crystals,  or  of  snow, 
or  of  the  siualhn-  fragments  of  l)rash-ic(\  floating  on  the  surface  of 
the  sea. 

A  stream  is  an  oblong  collection  of  drift  or  hay-ice,  the  ])icces  of 
which  are  continuous.  It  is  called  a  scd-slrcdni  when  it  is  ex])Osed 
on  one  side  to  the  ocean,  and  affords  shelter  from  the  sea  to  whatever 
is  within  it. 

Land-ice  ccmsists  of  drift-ice  attached  to  the  shore;  or  drift-ice 
which,  hy  being  covered  with  nuid  or  gra\'el,  appears  to  have  re- 
cently l)een  in  contact  with  the  shore;  or  the  flat  ice  resting  on  the 
land,  not  having  the  appearance  or  ele\-ation  of  icebergs. 

Tide-hole.  A  v,  ell  sunk  in  the  ice  for  the  puri^ose  of  obser\'ing 
tides. 

A  tongue  is  a  point  of  ice  projecting  luvirly  horizontcdly  from  a 
})art  that  is  under  water.  Ships  have  sometimes  run  aground  upon 
tongues  of  ice. 

Tracking.     Towing  along  a  margin  of  ice. 

Water-sky.  A  dark  aj)pearauce  in  the  sky,  indicating  "  clear 
wa.ter  "  in  that  direction,  an.d  forming  a  striking  contrast  with  the 
'■  l)link  "  owv  land  or  ice. 


INDEX 


Ahru/.zl,  Duko  of,  tlic,  425-430. 

Adatns,  Captain,  451. 

Adainrr,  voyage  of.  105,  lOS,  11.3; 
scooiul  v().\-aK(",  IDS  200;  wiiitcn-s 
in  Rcussclficr  Harbour,  202  ;  ahan- 
(lomiioiit,  22S. 

Ailficc,  voyage  of,  103. 

All)(>rt,  Prince  of  Monaco,  422. 

.Mdrich,  Lieutenant,  farthest,  325. 

Al<ii.  vo.\-aK(>  of,  310;  IukIi  northing, 
.314;  winters  at  Floe-berg  Eeaeh, 
3b")  .324;  rejoins  the  Discuvcri/, 
32(1. 

Alexai.  340,  351,  300. 

Al(\ra/ulcr.  ^•o\-age  of,  30. 

AniUer,  Dr.  .]'.  .M.,34n,  349,  352.  307. 

America,  v(n-age  of,  430,  432,  433. 

Amundsen,  Anton,  410. 

Aniunds(Mi,  Captain  Roald,  success- 
ful navigation  of  Northwest  Pas- 
sage, 4.50  4.34. 

Andierson,  .]ani(>s,  185. 

Andree,    Sahunon   August,   422-424. 

Aiuh-eief,  Lifnitenant,  370. 

Andriz,  Cdaes,  17. 

Anequin,  340. 

Anjou.  Lieutenant  P.  F.,  25. 

Arch(>r.  Lieutenant,  surveys  Ar(4ier 
Fiord.  32(). 

Arclic,  in  conunaTid  of  Lieutenant 
li;irtstein,  232. 

A-s.^istancr,  in  e()nnnand  of  f'aijtain 
Onnnancy.  101,  lOO,  bJO  :  in  coni- 
niaiid  of  Sir  iulward  Belcher,  141, 
113,   17'>,    lOl. 

Astrup,  ]-:iviiid,    457,    450.    4()0. 

Austin,  Captain  11.  T.,  104,  120,  122. 

.\u>tro-[Iungarian  expedition,   2S0. 

Pjack,  Ca.ptain  (b,  search  for  Hoss, 
67  ;   exidort's  Circat  Fish  River,  71  ; 


Back's  farthest,  72  ;  second  voy- 
age, 73  ;  hmcl  voyage  with  Frank- 
hn,  82,  85,  87,  88 ;  second  land 
journey  with  Frankhn,  90. 

Bade,  Captain,  424. 

Baffin,  21. 

Baldwin,  Evelyn,  425,  430,  432,  459. 

Baldwin-Zicgler  expedition,  430-434. 

Balto,  the  Lapp,  403. 

Baninan,  Lieutenant  Victor,  433. 

Bardsen,  Iva,  2. 

]5arnes,  Captain,  of  Sen  Breeze,  346. 

Bannitz,  William,  three  voyages, 
13-17. 

Barnard,  Lieut(Miant,  murdered,  174. 

Barrel:)  Jnnior,  93. 

Barry,  Cai)tain,  342. 

Bartiett,  Captain,  440. 

Baukh-\-,  Captain,  of  the  Helen  Mar, 
346. 

Bear,  398-400. 

Beaumont,  Lieutenant  L.  A.,  ex- 
plores Cb'cxMiland  coast,  326. 

Bedfard,  SO. 

B(>ebi>,    William    M.    Jr.,    379-380, 

3S.3. 
]5e(>chey,    Captain,    in    command    of 

Blos.soni,  (SO. 
l^ehring,  21-24. 
Bel(4ier,  Sir  Edward,  in  command  of 

sear(4i   (expedition,    141,    143,    148; 

directs    sledging    parties,    174-177 ; 

des(Ttion  of  the  shijjs,  179. 
Belijia.  430,  432. 
BiiUrophoiie,  80. 
Bellot,     Lieutenant,     French     navy, 

123.     127.     129.     131,     133,     136; 

d(>atli  of.  169-172. 
Bender.  393. 

]5(>nnett,  Janu^s  Cn)rdon,  345. 
Berggreu,  Dr.,  300. 


481 


482 


IXT)KX 


Hcsscls,    Dr.    l^inil,    aofompanics   Pd- 

Iciri.'i  cxpcMlition,  2.34;    sIchIkc  jour- 

n('\',  2.j('). 
Beverly,  Siirficcm,  :V2. 
liic(lcri)ick,  '-i'.rj. 
HilliiiK^,  ('ai)tain,  25. 
l^inilja,  .\.,  41s. 
Jio/Ki    Spcraitzd,    in   conimarul   of   Sir 

Hugh  WiUoii-Iiliy,  5. 
Bona      Ventura,      in      connnand      of 

Richard  ('hanc('llr)r,  (i. 
Boothia  Felix,  G7. 
JJoothia      Peninsula,      examined      by 

M'C'Untoek,  100. 
Bore,    Lieutenant   G.,    Royal    Italian 

n:ivy,  :i()4. 
Hra<lley,  .John  R.,  470. 
Hi'ainard,  1).  L.,  373;    highest  nortli, 

.•■;7(i,  3S,j,  391,  304,  396. 
Hraskerud,  439,  441. 
I'.rattelid,  2. 

Hridginaii,  11.  L.,  440,  400,  404. 
I^ritish  ex|)e<litiori  of  lS7r),  .310. 
Brown,  Captain,   in  connnand  of  the 

Dvliohf,  11. 
lirunsneff.  421. 
Buehaii,  29   40. 
Jiufldington,   C";i.])tain  .^.   ().,  in  coin- 

niaiid   Gi'iir/jf    Ilcnrn,    '!['■'>  :     sailing 

master   of    I'oUiriH.    2.") 4  ;     wreck    c^f 

Polaris.    2.'/);      winters    Life     i'.i>at 

Cove,  201. 
lounge.  Dr.  A.,  417. 
JJurrough,      .'-^tepheti,      (i  :       diseoxers 


(liamherlin.  Professor  T.  C,    100. 
( 'hancellor,      Richard,      o;       r(>aches 
Bay    of    St.    Xicholas,    undertakes 
visit  to  Moscow,  0. 
Cliandler,   Hon.  \V.  Iv,  400. 
Chipp,   Lieutenant   C.    \\'.,   executive 
ofiicer   of    the   .liauticlti,    34."),    34S  ; 
ahandonrnent     of     J canm  Itv,     '.'>'>\  ; 
assigned     to    second    cutter,     3o3  ; 
lost,  3.37. 
Christainsen,     Hans,     Eskimo      inter- 
preter    for     second      (jriim<>ll      ex- 
pedition,   200,    20S,    210,    219.    22S  ; 
accompanies      Pabrris      exjiedition, 
2.31 ;  adrift  ')n  th(-  ice  floe,  2(30,  260. 

'hristensen,   L.skimo,  37.3,  .39.3. 

'lavering,  ( 'aptain,  37. 

"ofhn.  Captain  Ivlwin,  432. 

'ollins,  .Jerome  .1.,  340,  351;  death, 
360. 

'oUinson,  ('aptain  Hicliard,  in  com- 
mand of  Krilrr/>ri.'ic,   103. 

•olw<'ll.  Lieutenant  ,J.  C.,  381,  3.S4, 
;!95,  400. 

'iinwa\'.  Sir  Maitin,  421. 

'ook,  C.nptain,  2S. 

'ook,  Dr.  i'reilerick  A.,  457:  claims 
discovery   of  th(>    Poh',   471-173. 

'o])pinger,  1  )r.,  .■■i20. 

'ortereals,  ( 'aspar,  Miguel,  \'ascr),  7. 

'I'ane,  /ena-.  46s. 

'resswell.  Lieutenant,  14N  ;  carries 
despatches  fi-om  McClure  to  Lng- 
land,   149. 


strait    leadimj;    into    Kara    .^ea    and    I   "Crini-on     Cliffs."'      first      mentioned 


winters  at  ( 'olotnogro.  7. 
Butler,  Captain,  10. 

Cal.ot,  .John,  3   4. 

Caliot,  Sehastian,  3   5. 

Cagni,  Captain  rml)erto,  42('>  :  high- 
est north.  42S. 

C;innon.  Ilenr\    W.,  464. 

('ai>e  B)Ount\-,  di-covered  l)\-  l*,ari-\', 
42. 

Cnri'iisc,   ill   cDiiunand  of   I'hipps,   27. 

(':irl~en,  ('.aptain  V...  iia\igatcs  I  he 
Se:i   .,f    K;il-:i.   26S. 

(■<it<,.    xnx-.-i-e  (,f,   M). 


l>,v  (  ';iptain  .John  Pnss.  :!1. 
"  ( 'roker   .Mountains,"  .'^2. 
Cross,  Mrs.  Susan  .!.,    139. 
Ci'ozier,   Captain    V.    R.    M.,    1n7. 

Daly,  Charles  P.,  333. 

Daly,  .M.arin,  333. 

l);ineidio\\  cr,     Lieutenant    ,Iohn    W. 

316,  :;i9,  :!3i,  ;i(;i. 

I)a\is,    .lolm,    tiiJ-ee    \-o\'ag(>s,    13. 
h.nrn.   hark.  316. 
I  ),i\\  son,  LieiitetKUit .  ''>70. 
I)e:i-i'  and  Simpson.  7->    7.3. 
l)e,hick.  Dr.,  4  10. 


('aloi'.     Lii-utenant     Cnmiiiander,     of      />.//'//«/'.  under  Sir  Humphrey  (  nil  )ert. 


the  Inlrrpid,  10  1. 


10. 


INDEX 


483 


Dc  LoiiK,  IJcutciiant  (Jcormo  W.,  in 
coniiiiand  of  the  JcannvtU-  expedi- 
tion, :-)45  ;  new  hmcLs,  350  ;  al^an- 
(.ioniiieiit  of  the  ./((inncttc,  351  ;  tlie 
r(>tr(>at,  352  ;  Bennett  Island,  353  : 
divides  jiartx',  353;  inalcinfj;  for 
the  Lena  delta,  357;  lands,  35S  ; 
last  days,  3f)0. 

DeshnelT,  22. 

Dieuil,  2. 

Diehitseh,  Kmil,  462, 

Dietriehson,  ( t.  C,  403,  400. 

lYiiiiis.  Sir  Dudley,  1!). 

DiKcr.nrn,  in  command  of  Henr\- 
lindson,  19:  D'lKcovcnj,  vo\"a<i:e  of, 
3t();  winters  at  I])iseovery  Har- 
hour,  314;  eonnnunicates  with  the 
Ah  rt,  324  ;  return  to  Enjj;land,  320. 

Dun, I /,,(,.   v<,yaKO  of,   33-40. 

Divs^ler.  300. 

Duffy,  .teaman,  434. 

Duni)ar,  William  M.,  34G,  350. 

Di/i/ij)liii(i,  370. 

Edilnslonc.  4.5. 

]-:<i;erton,  Lieutenant,  315,  320,  320. 

Kiiiarsfjord,  2. 

lOkhoim,  .370. 

l':iison,  3SS  :S90-393;    death,  40f). 

iMHory,  Lieutenant,  390-400. 

ErJi  rpris( ,  in  eoniinand  of  Sir  .James 
Clark  Koss,  95,  9,s  ;  under  Captain 
Hiehard  Collinsoii,  103,  100. 

I-.n1rikin.  Samuel  .!..  459. 

Enhiis,  in  command  of  Sir  .John 
J-"ranklin,  9:;  ;    last  seen,  94. 

Lriksen,  -M\  lius,   151 . 

I'a.irholme.  lieutenant,  9.3, 

Enlr,,,,,  vo\-a<j:(>  of,   159,  400. 

F'li.r,   in   command   of   Captain  .John 

iJoss.  10  1,  12:;. 
l-'iala,   \nthon\-,  4:12-434. 
I'it/james,   19:5. 

i-orvvlh,  (  'omnia nd<>rC!iarle<  C.,  101, 
/•'-//■//'■.     con\-oy     for     Duehe.ss    of     An- 

JZuulerU!',   si . 
i-'o>lieini.    11!   -1  13, 
Fn.r.  ^-,.\■a!:^•  .)f.   Is-i. 
I''riii,-i.    \an  —  u'.~   vova'te   in   the,   410- 


410;  four  y(>ars'  voyage  in  com- 
mand of  Otto  S\'erdrup,  430-449. 

I'Yanaenkol,  422. 

Li'anklin,  John,  29 ;  early  life,  79 ; 
first  land  journey,  82  ;  land 
journey  of  1<S25,  91-92;  govern- 
ment ser\'ice,  92  ;  last  journey  of 
Sir  .John  I'ranklin,  93  ;  traces  of 
lost  ships,  110-1.S4;  record  of 
Franklin  expedition,   190   193. 

Franklin,  I^ady  .Jane,  92  ;  ofTers 
reward  for  assistance  to  her  hus- 
band, 102  ;  appeal  to  the  United 
States,  104. 

I'n>deri<-k,  3SS-390,  393. 

Frith  inf.  430-434. 

l'"rol)isher,   Martin,  thre<>  voyages,   8. 

I-'rozen  Strait  of  Middh^ton,  47. 

Fury,  vo^-age  of,  44 -50;     abandoned, 


G'lhri'l.  in  command  of  ALirtin 
Frobisher,   S. 

Cardinei-,  ;>92, 

Ciai'lington,  Lieutenant  E.  A.,  3S1, 
3.si,  387. 

George  Ileurij.  con\'e\-s  Charle-; 
l-'rancis  Hall  to  Creenland,  isO; 
under  Cai)tain  l-iuddington,  243. 

Cleorgian  Islands,  later  called  Parr\' 
Islands,  discov.Tcd,  43, 

Gerlache,  Captain,  430. 

German  exijcdition,  first,  208;  sec- 
ond, 209;  beset,  279;  winters, 
27s,  remai4vabl(>  journey  of  Lieu- 
tenant Payer,  2Sl . 

Ger)>tu)ii(t,  in  connnand  of  (\i|jtain 
Koldewa\-,  beset,  279;  winti'rs, 
2sl  ;    return.  2s5. 

Ciibson,  Langdon.  457. 

Giese,  Dr.,  37(». 

Gilbert.  Sir  Humphrey,  10-]:;. 

Gilder.  \V.  IL,  3:U,  .340  ::;i4. 

Gjiirt.  in  command  of  ('ai»tain  lioald 
Amundsen,   150  451, 

Gladrn.  convo\-,  300. 

Gul,],n  ni.;'h."UK 

Goodsir,  Dr..   10:i,   122. 

Gon\  Graham,   191  -  194. 

Cnre,   Prnfc^s.ir  ,).  II.,  422. 

Gortz,  300. 


484 


IXDEX 


(Ircoly,      A.      W.      (Major      (Icnoral  '   Ha\i'S,  Dr.  I.  I.,  ar'fompanios  scooik 

L.  S.  Aj,   Lieutenant   in   enniinan<i  (irinnell    r'xiKTiition.    JV-'>.   21'.):    i: 

of  the  Lady   l''ranklin   15ay  e.xpedi-  ,        coniinaiKl  ol' the  /'/,//((/ ,S/«/(.v,  2:;.") 

tion,  •'571,   e.\)^ioration.<   in   (irinneU  death     of     ,<onnt,ajr.     2.'.i(; ;      .sledK' 

Land,    '-J??  :     fir.st    faihire    of    rehef  joiirne\"  to  "  (  )[)en  Pohir  Sea,"  23!) 

t^liip,     .'irO  ;    .-second   faihire  of  rehef  journe\-  in  I'l/nl/n  r.  2  12. 


sliij),  .'5^2  :  Jih.andonnient  of  J''or't 
Conner,  :;^.";  :  the  retreat,  ;iMi  ; 
CajM'  Saliine,  estahlishe.-s  Canii) 
C'hi\-,  .'^^7  :  horrors  of  the  winter, 
.'^S0-.'i!)2  ;    saved,  :^().j-40(). 

Cireen,  sailor,  20. 

(ir<  I  iilatid,  .\-aeht,  in  coniinaiul  of 
('ai)tain  K<ildewey,  2(i^. 

Griiinell  expeditions,  first,  in  eom- 
mand  of  He  Haven,  ]U:,.  \V.)  :  s(  e- 
f)nd,  in  eoinin.and  of  Dr.  Kane, 
lit!);  winters  in  Ii'-iisseliier  Har- 
l)oiir.  202:  sled;nn'j:  trips,  2')7  ; 
elTeets  of  exhau.-tion  and  cold,  21  1  : 
J  )r.  K'.ane's  journe.w  21."i :  illness  of 
Dr.  Kane.  21'.):  second  winter  i:i 
tlie  ice,  22^^  pi-i\".ation  and  suf- 
feriii'.rs,  22."):  ahandoinneiit  of 
Adnnu-r.  22S:  d^ath  of  Ohlsen, 
22!) :    rescue,  2:;(). 

Criiniell,   Henr.w   10.1. 

CIriiuiell    Land.  <li-.covered,    1  1."). 

(iripir.  in  cDiinii.and  of  l'arr\-.  -1  1  ; 
in  coniniand  of  f 'laicrintr.  .js,. 

HadilinL'ton,  Lord,  1)2, 

Hall,  f -h.urles  I'lvnicis.  e,arl\-  life.  2  1:;  : 
lir,-t  trip  t'.  .\rctic.  di-.'',,vi'rs  I'r-.- 
liislcr  ri'lic-;.  211  2.').'>  :  life  wiih 
LskiuKJ,  2  hi:  jnuriie\-  to  Ixint; 
W'iiliion  Land,  2  Is  :  lind--  rejj.'-  ,if 
I'Vanklin.  2.")1  :  return  u,  the  ( 'nit'  d 
.-^lali-.  2.'):!:  N'^rth  Polar  \i>v:rj>\ 
■J.rA,  de.ath  of  Hall,  2."..-,. 

fl'in-'l.      -'■rond      '  ieiaiiall      expediti"!;. 

2);i):  wreck  of,  271. 
H:in--n.  Hcln.er,  !.",(). 
Han-cn.     Lieutenant     (indfred.      l.'dl. 


H:irl,-r, 


■nant     Cile-     1',.,     :;r,l. 


Ilari-oin.  Lieuteii.ant,  .-cut  to  tl 
i-li-t   of   Dr.    Kan..   2:^2    2:)  I. 

De  H.T.cn,  Lieutenant  in  .■■.mnrit 
of  hi-!   <  .liniell  I  Al. edition.    I'l.',. 


azen,  (ieiiei-al,  I'M).  lis-L 
earne,     disco\-er,-     the     Coj^jjerninn 
Hiver,  2S. 

oln.  in  coniinaiKi  of  I'arr.w  41    o(i. 
cL'eniann.  I'r.,  Captain,  in  command 
(,f  the   J/n„s,,.  2(11). 
eilieiM_r,  Consul  .\xel,  4::!ri. 
eilprin,  I'role.-sor,   l-'js. 
ill, I  Mar.  whaler,  :-il(i. 
enr\  ,  •■■!!)2,  .'ll)!). 

enr\'  \d  1.  irrants  pat(Mit  to  Cahots,  'A. 
cMi,-on,  ALatthew.  4.-J7.  4.".1»,  -iC,:',. 
e],l,urn,  .John.  N.';,   12:^;. 
I  ra/il.    v,,yuur  of.   !).j.    141). 
ohson.     Lieutenant,     makes    search 
for  l-'raiiklin  relic-.   LsfJ,   1!)7. 
ooil,   i;ol,ert,  S2,  M  ;    death.  M). 
n,>,.  4(;i.   ^ 

oppner.  Lieutenant.  ."Jl . 
ortraard.    Lieutenant.   oOl.   M70. 
uhh:u-d.  Ceiaa-al  d'h.anas  IL,  4(^^. 
ild.-on,     Henr,\'.    earl\-    \-o\-atres,     1!); 
l;et  vo\aL'e.  20. 
l\de,  I'rederick  i:..  4(iL 

(■>•   ('a|.e.   lieadland     of    Alaska,   seen 

li\-   I'eirentz.   Hi. 
roll  .Mountain-.    KiO. 
.^ni,,/.  in  comniand  of  f'aptain  Int-de- 

lieM.  H.  \.,   I  \:;    \  17  :    in  c(,inniand 

el     .Mr.     Kel.|;e,ly.     |    Is. 

siih.  Ihi.   uiidi  r   Ho."  and   I'arix".  .'iO. 
-ae!i-ei,.     Lieiiiriiiini     Iiicrakl.      i:;(i, 

i:;!).    1  12. 
■-^'■jnri' .    ill    eoininand    ef    Lieutenant 

\\"e\preel|t,    _' M ', . 

-land      of      (  'ape      Jireton,      seen      liV 

(   ahot.,  :\. 
-rael,  :;i)2. 

\ir-eii,  :;(i(i. 

aekniaii.  Charle-,  '.). 

:.ef  -on.     I'r.   del-iek    (  \  .  .    4  10. 

:eL-e,i,    I.  l>.,  :;oi. 
;. -/o    12.',. 


IXDEX 


48i 


J<  (iiini  til',  ill  cDinniand  of  Captain  T)(> 
l.min;,  :;  1") :  hcsct,  ;vl7  ;  i.s  .sunk,  o51 ; 
relics  loiiiul,    1()!». 

J,u/inil!r  cxpcilition.  ;54.j-;:!G8. 

.ii  MS,   llskiiiio,  o7l.'. 

Jensen,   llerr  DouKaad,  451. 

.lesiui.  Mollis  K.,  .1(;4. 

,ie\\v!l,  :i\n. 

.loliainisen,  ( 'aptain,  cireumnavigatcri 

\i)va  Zemhla,  L'OS. 
,J(.lianne>en.  Frederik,  410,  413,  415. 
,1  iin nlln.  '■]  K). 

Kamehatka,  22. 

Kane.  Dr.  IIHsIki  Kent,  U.  S.  N.,  105; 

(leseriiies    escape    from    ^\'ollinl];toll 

('liannek     11-S;      new    hintlti,     115; 

death,  2.vl. 
Kami,  Di-.  Leoj.old,  400. 
Keemsdirk,  .Jaco'i),   10. 
Kell(  n.  ( 'aptain  Henry,  95. 
Kell(\\-,    Captain   of   the   l)ark   Diiwn, 

;!10. 
Keiineil_\,    Captain    in    command    of 

I'riiirr  Ali„rl.  12:n2<.t:    journey  to 

l''ur,\'  15(>ach,  VIS;    discover.s  ]5eIIot 

Strait.  1  10. 
Kin-:  .\lfred.  2. 
Kill-,  Dr.  Richard,  07,  72. 
A'//i.  \-oya,;ivs  of.    157,    15.S,  404. 
K.ielhnan.    1'.  II..   :'A)l. 
Kolde\\e_\,     ("a])taiii     Karl,    in     com- 

nituid   of  (irniKiiiin.   20'.),   271,   2.S1, 

2M. 
KoloniiezolT.  Lieutenant,  41S. 
Ivoltscliak.    Lieutenant,    lis   420. 

Liii/i/   Fntiih-liii.   in   coniniand   of   Mr. 

l'enn\-,   lOM;    in  conim.and  of  J  ni^k'- 

lield,   1  Is. 
Lad\'    l-'ranlvlin    I'.a.v  expe(lition.  •>71  - 

KM'. 
Lanford,     ('a|itain,    in     coininand     of 

I'nl.  i,hrnnis.  SO. 
Lernei.  Theodor.   124. 
Li!il.e.\  .  i'rofe-.-^or  William,  400. 
LinMi-om,  .\dolf.    150. 
I.ockwood,     Lieutenant    ,1.    T?.,    :!72  : 

hi'j:lie>T     norlh.     :i70,     ;;sO  :     death. 


Lcik,  Miciiael.  jiatron  of   l'rol)islier,  S.   j        24  1 


L(jnir,  Cajitain  Thomas,  208. 
Lone;,  .^erf^eant,  301,  .301,  308,  400. 
Lonl    Wcllhidton,   Hudson  13ay  Com- 

l)an\-  trader.  45. 
Lowe,  ( 'hief  Knfrineer,  U.  S.  N.,  398. 
Lund,  .\uto,  4.50. 
Lynn.  3ss  390. 
Lyon.  Lieutenant,  44,  48;  in  command 

of  Cripcr.  59. 
Lyons,  .\dmiral,  454. 
Lytzen,  40i). 

Machuron,  .Vlexis,  42.3. 

Mackenzie,  28. 

M'Clintock,  explores  coast  line  of 
Boothia  Peninsula,  100;  sledgo 
journ(>y  of  1851,  121  ;  in  command 
of  Fo.r,  180;  finds  relics  of  Frank- 
lins expedition,  liM)-19S. 

Mc("lure,  Commander,  10.3;  accom- 
plishes Northwest  Pa.s.sa<2;o,  148- 
108. 

McLeod,  (Miiployee  of  Hudson  15ay 
Conipan\-,  accompanies  Cajjtaiu 
Ha(dv.  OS. 

Mair^aard,   Christian,  450. 

Mdrinii,  rescu(-s  the  Kane  jjarty,  231. 

Markham,  CommaiukT  Albert  H., 
second  in  command  of  the  I5ritish 
expedition  of  ls75,  .311  ;  visits 
Liplioat  ( 'o\'e,  ;)1.3  ;  autumn  sledjio 
journey,  315;  Alarkham's  fartlnvst, 
321. 

Mar\'in.  Professor  Ross  C!.,  473. 

Mdtlii  ii.\  vo\'aKe  of,  3. 

Melville,  c'eor-e  W.  (Rear  Admiral 
rnite(l  .^tates  Xavy),  I-]n,i;ineer  of 
the  ./idiinillr,  3  0;,  348,  ;5.50  ;  aban- 
donment of  the  ./ca/;/)*/'* .  351;  in 
comni:!nd  of  wliale  boat,  353  ; 
reaches  mouth  of  Lena  Ri\'er,  35s  ; 
meets  nati\'es.  359:  Xindemann 
and  \'o!-i'-,  302:  winter  search  for 
L)e  Lon-,  303>  ;  sprint:  search,  3()4- 
;!0S:  to  the  relief  of  (4reely.  -399- 
400. 

Melville,  RiKht  Honourable  Viscount, 
.52. 

"Met.a  Incotrnlta."  discovered  by 
I'robislier,   S;     mentioned   by   Hall, 


4Sii 


IXDEX 


Mry.T.     ScrL'-ant    F..   SiLMial     forps.  Xnr<.s,  L.  P..  •*;.",;».  ;-!r,l .  :i(i2,  304. 

r.  S.  A.,     with     I'li'm-'s    cxiii-ditiun.  Xui'th  ("aiic,  2. 

ni:i]i..'>  iv-i-ni-(l.  _'.",(;.  Xnrtit    Star.    '.»'.):    winti'i-s    in    Wnl-tcii- 

Mirhinl.    MiiL-   in    coiiiiiaii:,-    with    tlic  ^        hMJin.-    .'-■imikI.    lo:;    lot:     uttarh-(l 

(r'uhri'l.    iiii'ln-     comniainl    of    I-'ro-  ;        tu  Sii-   ivl'Aard   I'ch-hcr's  .^iiuadr'jn. 


l.ish-r, 


1  10.   in.   Ki'.i.   17'.i. 


Michachiia-   Way.  <(>  uaunMl  \,y  Hiid-  ,  Xm\-:i    S'-otia.    >U|.|)')~c;l    tu    !)(■    hind 

>on.   I'.i.                                                            I  iii:~t   -'->-n  !.y  Caijot-,  '-i. 
Mihic.  Caiitain.    l.'d. 

.MoHn.-Ui,  ])r.  . \chii!. ■(•.,-!_>(;,  4_'7.4_'s.  Ohl-ai.  a.-Tonii  ^anirs  s.T,,nd  nrinncll 

.Moore,      Captain,     in     coniinand     of  ex;, criitiMU.  _'!)_'.  _'()  1.  L'()7.  L'l.'^,  _'!()  ; 

J'l;f:  [>r>.  dratll  of.   L'_':i. 

AIo\-cnicnt.-      of      Captain      Austin's  C)niinan'-\',    ( 'aptain.  in   connnand    of 

siiuadi-on  in  -priniz  of   Is.jl,   li'l.  .  l.-.ws/, ;.,,,.     lol:      Icavrs   rcford  at 

Alurdock.    -ailini:   ma-tcr.    first   Clriu-  Cap<'  H'll'-y.  I'll*. 

ncll  expedition.   1(1.1.  Of, 1:1.    .['hnn.  i-i,nv',y.  '■',{)(). 

Mu~ein-y    C.nipany.    e.~taldishcd    l)y  I  Or^'',.   halloon.   4_'_'. 

inereliants  of  London.  4. 


Xah.or>t.  Dr.  .V.  C...  4_'_'.  4-'4. 

Xmirn  /Jilirsu,,,    Dti, 


(J.-!>orne.     .-^lii-rai'd,     in    rommand    f)f 
j        ri'ini'  f.     1(1}  ;     de~cri!)es    examina- 
tion   of    ]5eeehe\-    I.-huid.    i\\\d>    relies 

I        of  AV. 'e/..  and   T. '■,■<, r.   111. 


Xan-en,     F.,     KH:     fir-t    eros>inL'    of      Other.  iai-l\-  ad\enturer.  L'. 

Creenland.    4il.T4ii-^:    phm-    Xorth      Otter.  Count  4".  W.  von.  in  eoniniand 

Polar     \-o\-aL'e.     4(0;     adi'ift     in     the  of   .<e/ej,   J'.O. 

Iiaek.   411  :     leave,  tile   Fr,un.   41_'  : 

luLdiest     north,     41.'-!:     the     retre.at,  Paland-r.      Lieutenant.      .'-iOO:       coin- 

414:    winter  on  I-'r;UiZ  .lo-eph  Land.  ina:ider  of   tin-  Fey;.  .'JUL 

41.'J:     meetin'j:    with    .Jaek-on,    41ti,  I'alli-ei-.  na\-ieati  -  ."^i  a  of  Kara.  2<)S. 

4Ji;.   4:-!';.  '  /^/'/e'e/v;.    \e\-a-e  ef.   :-i_'7-:-iM()  :     ^ee.,nd 

Xare.,.    ('aptiun    ('rei)rL'e    S..    i:i    com-  \"ey;iee.  :;:;_'   '■-V--',\. 

nianl     of     the     liriti-li     exp'-dition  F'.arki-r.    Ia:id.-d   pi'<  e.-i~ion-  for  I'raiik- 
of  1^7.':.,  :-;il  :    \-idts  Lif.-hoat  <  'o\-e.  iin  :it  (  'ape  lia\-.   Mi:;. 

.■■;i:-i:       winter-      Vl^v-^^u-vs      Me:ieh.  P.ai'r.  Lii-uten:,nt.  •■;i.">.  :;_':^. 

•'■i_'l  :    to  tie-  rehef  (if  ALu-kliam.  .-!_'! 
Xn^iil.is.  .(1. 

Xel-iin.   tier.  I  ef  4'rafalL';ir.  _'7.   _'^. 
.V.  e'  -'...  :-l7M.  :;s:i.  :i-^4. 
Xewenn:',.    U:.vm'.nl   L..  :;io. 
.V.    ■   )'..■/.■  //.  ■-,/./.  :;i.V  :;o!,    t7ii. 
Xi:id'-ni:.;u..  >eain:.ii  Will.  F.  <  '..  :;  lo 

.'lis.     :;,Vi:       fiii-e.-d     ni:ii'e!i.     :io,n 

m-  it-     .Mi'i'.ille.     :-;i;_>:     a  —  i-t-     ii 

>ear'4i   fer    I  )e  I.en-.   eill.  '■',>'«'<.  -'is 
Xr,rl'  n-kj.,ld.      M:.r..!i      .\.      IF      n-ii 


l':ii-r\-.  Lieutenant  W.  IF.  -!'a  :    seei 
\-e.\:i'_'-.    -!  1  :     pa  —  e,-   1  id"    \\"..    win- 
rew.ard,     4l' :      di-ee\ei'-;     Parr.\'     I.-- 
Land-.     hi  :      third     \-.i\-aee.    4  1   :>\ 
Xert!,   I'ejar  v^yaire.  .-,_'. 

Paul-.;!.  .\..  :;7ii. 

!':e.  y.    Dr.    D..    :;7:i  :    -ledin-   joi;rne\ 


e;    \^..,    :;oj  :    ■.■  .>a- 

:;o}    :;o~,  ;    ,,  yn-n  .,f   l'../.;.  :;o:) 
A'e'.,'.  '.    ■■.//.  ta,.,  :;7F 
Xorm:U..  :,07. 


Pay.-r.  Li.  i;f.  leuit  .Julius,  of  tin 
-  ■'•' .::  1  I  e'riaan  .-x:  ..■.  lit  i'  .n.  ,!.  iurni.,\ 
..f,  l!>:;  :  Au-riM-l  iuieiaiFin  expe- 
>\\'\'  .11.    _'s7  :     -ie.  11'.-   j.  iui'n.',\".    i".i  1 

■:i.      _"'U:  :':  ri!v-t.  L^luii:  r.'turn.  _".<7. 

:    ■.,..r.,.A-       |>  -.ry.   Mr-..    h"^7.    l.".U. 

til-    'F.;/'.       I',    i.'-;..    I,'..ort    Ivhiiii.  ..arl;.-  life,    1,",,", 

n. .;.■-,    h"'.7  :     .■\;.|..re-   (  dvi^nland   ie. 
'■:i;  I,      1-"")^  :       ,-umniar\-     .  if     -ee. 


lyijEX 


487 


\\-d'-\-  icntlnuiil) 

\(i.\-a!zi\     451):      journoy     iif     1n!)3, 

sccoiKi    jniii'iic\'    across    ( li'd'uland 

ic(>    <'a[j,    ■1()():      suiniiicr    \'o\'air('s. 

4*i4  :    src-iii'cs  the  faUKMis  iiictciiritc, 

4('i4:     fir-t    :lttcni))t    to    nai  h    Pole. 

■Kil:     work    at    Fort    Contrcr,    4<io; 

record   of    is'.t!),   4(i(i  :     r("(;or(l    VMYl, 

4ti7:    rrconl  lUOfi.  4(;s  :    aniiouncc- 

iiicnt  of  di-covcry  of  th(    Pole,  471  : 

suimiiai'\-  of  the  Xortli  Polar  IOx!;c- 

ditioii  of  Peary  Arctic  C'luh,  472. 
Peary    Aptic    Cluh,    404,    407,    40s, 

47_'. 

'der.    ltL>. 

•ii'hihnn      Islands,      discovered      by 

Clavei-inu'.  -sO. 

'iin\'.     ('aptaiii,    of     whalinti;     sliij; 

A'irir,.  lOo. 

•t,  Arthur,  voyage  of,  9. 
eternian.     iJr.     .A.,     proniotes     first 

(lerniaii  expedition.  L'OS. 
eters,  Wiliiain  ,J..  4;!-'. 
eterscn.   'Mi)  :    death.  •'■'.-'O. 
hit'ps  expedition.  l'7-2^. 
riiiiiii.r,    in    connnand    of    Injrh-field, 

14s. 
I'iiii,  I^'entenant.  1(17. 
l'in)nir.     in     command     of     Sherard 

O-horne,  141, 
I'''i':\      in      c(jniniand      of     Captain 

Moore,  !».■").  '.H).   14'.). 
I'"h:rL.<.    under    (""aptain     Hall.    l-*o4  ; 

uiider    ('ajitain    I'udilinL'ton,   2o0  : 

wreck  of.  23!);    sejiaration  of  crew, 

2)il. 

]',,!<  I,h:  )N 'IS.    S(l 

I'n'ihiii:.    in    command    of   Lieutenant 

Palander,  MOO. 
I'ordeii.    Anne,   first   wife   of   Sir  .John 

Franklin,  s],  ()(). 

i'n:-i„,;s.  .    SI  I, 

■■  i'rima  d'ei'i-a  A'esta."  mainland  of 
North      Amei'ica.      so      named      Ia- 

( 'aO-i:-.  :;. 

/'.'■■''.  .1 ,'-'.'  /■/.  ill  command  of  (  'ap't.ain 
I'or^Nth.  10!  IdC,  :  in  command  of 
K'eniied'/,  12;!,   1  in. 

y  ■//.'■-    ,,/■  \V,,l.s,   trad  -r.  4.".  sj,  !,!. 

Pli\-,\-    Pl|I--i      i\peli~c;    fur    pUI-ch:lse    of 

Xewf(,und]and.  '.). 


Prott'u.s,  conveys  the  Lady  F'lanklin 
]iay  exijedition  to  I'ort  ( 'onjzer, 
:^71;  to  th(>  relief,  ;jM  ;  .sunk,  3S4, 
;is7,  .':;07. 

PuUen.  Lif'Utenant.  00. 

J'\'t!ieas,  early  ad\'enturer,  2. 

(^ueen      l-lIizaOeth's      Fcjreland,      dis- 

co\-ered  I)\'  Froljislier,  N. 
(iuerini,  T.,  42fi.  42s. 

I'ar(  fiorst .  in  command  of  Phipps,  27. 
Piae,  F)r.  ,lohn.  o\'erland  journe\-.  7.5- 

7.S  :   search  for  F'ranklin.  Ftl  :   finds 

trace-.   ]s4. 
HnijncaHj'iil,  424-. 
lininhmr.    in    connnand    of    Sir    .John 

I'raiiklin.  !)2. 
lialeiirh.  Sir  Walter,  10. 
Jtasmussen,  Knut,  451. 
Ji'iltlisu/il.-t ,  under  Commander  Trol- 

lope.  14s. 
Pavna.  the  Laiipj.  4f);5. 
liawson.    Lieutena.nt,    .'315,    3Ls,   235, 

:!20. 
Iiaw  Lieutenant.  •'370. 
lied  Cliff  House.  457. 
lieid.  122. 
l\il'Hs(.    in    command    of    Lieutenant 

IFirt.-tein.     sent     to     relief     of    Dr. 

Kane.  2.')2. 
liisiihiti-.     in     comnKuid     of    Captain 

II.  T.  .\ustin,   104:    under  r'aptain 

Kellett.    141  :    story  of  the,   IsO. 
H.tri'nituiu.  Is2. 

Pdce,  .-^erficant.  37-'].  .'iss  :    death.  303. 
Pdnk.  Dr.  IF,  400. 
liistvedt.  452. 

PoOinson,  Lieutenant,  reaches  Cress- 
well  Pa\-.   101.  130. 
Rnijirs.  hurned.  30s. 
Hans,  r,  It.  407,  40.!). 
lioosevelt,   The<,dore,  404. 
Poss,  Caption  .lohi!,  first  \-o\-a'_'c.  2!) - 

for  .~~i]- .lolm  I'l'anklin.  123. 

P<.-s.  .Tames  Claik.  discovers  North 
.Ma'jnetic  Pole,  (i:{  :  in  command 
(if  /•,"/-/. /■///•/'.-■.  and  I n:,  st:, I, ,',,'■.  in 
-earch  for  Sir  .John   I'ranl^lin.  !t5. 

P\-der,  Lieutenant,  4.'!7. 


488 


INDEX 


SaI)iiio,  takes  olisrrvations  on  Pen- 
dulum Islands,  58. 

Sacheusc,  J.jlui,  Eskimo,  80. 

.S7.  I'(t,r.  24. 

Sari/d,  41.S  421. 

Schalaroff,  25. 

Schci,  442. 

Schilciko,  Li(nit('iiant,  418. 

Sclilcy,  Winficld  Scott  (Hear  Admi- 
ral, United  States  Xavy),  ;:!82,  :','.),'>, 
400. 

Scliuetze,  \\.  11.,  ;5r)4-;](;8. 

Schwatka,  Li(nitenant  I'rederiek,  laud 
journey,  ^j.'M  ;  finds  I'rauklin  relics, 
:i:i9  ;  finds  .M'(  "lintock  record,  ;i40  ; 
the  return,  .'-IK). 

Scoresh.N',  .57. 

Scott-IIanscji,  Lieutenant  Rifzurd, 
410. 

tScd  Breeze,  .Vnierican  ■svhalo  l);udv, 
340. 

Searefi-thrift  in  command  of  Stephen 
Hurrou^h,  0. 

SceherK,  421. 

Sheldon,  Koljert,  <.)(>. 

Simmons,  Herman  (ieorj;,  430. 

Simpson  aiid  Dease,  7.'^   75. 

tSIaradonl)zo\-,  Sawa,  21. 

Sm(-llen,  Dr.,  ;J70. 

Smith,  Leio:h,  302. 

Snow,   W.   P..    104,    100,   108. 

Sofia,  in  command  of  ( 'ount  1'".  W. 
von  Otter,  2;)0;  hi.Ldi  norlhinj:, 
300. 

"Somerset    House,"   05. 

SonntaK,  200;    de;ith.  230. 

Scp/iin,  in  command  of  I'enn.w 
103. 

Speckman,  Sei'jieant,  40. 

Sqiiirnl.   HI    12. 

Sta-llin^,  .1.,  421. 

Steen,    Allr-cl,   S..  .370. 

Stein.   I  )r.   lioliert,  40(i. 

Sti/I<j  /',;/, IT' ,  in  command  of  the 
Duke  of  thr  Al.ruzzi,  420   430. 

Stephenson,  (  ioMiiie.  22'.t. 

Sti'\Mirt,    .Mar'shall   .].,    122. 

StriiidOer-,  422. 

Suthrrlaiid,   Dr..   122. 

Svo,id<on.   Dr.  .lohan,  43s. 

S\-erdrup.     i>tto,      lo:-;    IDs;      ('aj-taiu 


of    tli(^    Fmm,    410-412  ;      second 
xoy.i'^c  in  command  of  Fratii,  43.5; 
slcd<i:c     journey,     441,     443,    447, 
440. 
Svdlloir,   10    12. 

TdUxit,  170. 

T(4iits(4iaKof,  -Admiral,  attemjits  to 
round  Spit zOei'Ken  in  1704,  25. 

T<ij<llliojf.  .\ustro-Hunji:arian  expe- 
dition, 280   2<.)7,  3(i8. 

T,rni  Xura,   131. 

l'(  rror,  in  command  of  C'ai)t,ain  I5ack, 
73  ;  in  command  of  Sir  .(ohn 
I'raiddin.  03, 

Lord   Wdllmilon,  tlie,  trader,  45. 

77/c/;.v,   vo,\-a.ue  of,   ■■'>'.),')    100. 

Thi/ra,  403. 

'I'iijress,  in  command  of  ('ai)tain 
liartlett,  2(i0,  3  l(i. 

Tr)ll,  Haron  I],  von,  417,  421. 

4\)rn>ll,  Otto,  jreoloudst,  208. 

Trantc,  l\fistian,   lO.''!. 

Trollotx",  (  'ommander.   148. 

'rschiriko\-,   ("aptain,   22. 

Tn'soii,  Captain  ( Icorfje,  255;  achift 
on  ice-floe,  202  ;    rescue,  2()(). 

Wiloroiis.  :>A  1,  312. 
\'nri„i.  370. 
\'e<'r,  ("cT.-ird  de,   10. 
\'<'jo.  \-oya-e  of,  :'!0:-;    .'!()0,  340. 
\'erhoelT,  .lolm   .M..    157. 
r/r/e;'.7,  in  command  of  ('aptain  .John 
i{o.--,  01  :    uOandoiicd,  01. 

r;c/,,.r;/,  is;p 

r/zV/cr/,      102. 

Vincent,  Dr.   iOhvard  K.,  4.50. 

Walter,   Dr.,    120. 

\\afdliu>s.  5. 

\\\-irml)alh.  Samuel,    100. 

Waxall.  21. 

WeHman.  Waltcf.   12  1     125. 

\\''\preclil,   l.i.utenaiil     K.arl,  .-:iiU    in 

lyOjorn.  2^0,  ;    in   command   of  ,\us- 

I  ro-l  i  utiL'.'ii'i.an       exiiedit  ion,       2s7  - 

207,  3(;s. 
Wilder,       Commander       frank,      :;M  , 

Ms.'!. 
\\illou-lil.\-.  Sir  Huuli,  5. 


iNi)i:x 


489 


WiN.Ii:-<iiyl  410,  40,5,  400. 
\V(>lil,>^i'nmth,  J.icutcnant,  .'i70. 
A\'()l^t('iiholnu'.  Sir  Jolui,  10. 
A\'raiiK(41,  Admiral  ^•()n,  l'5-l27. 
AN'ulfstan,  (Mirly  adventurer,  2. 

Yantir,  voyivjiv.  of,  ;3!Sl-384. 
Y'iner,  oU3. 


Yoiin<;,  Allen,  voyape  in  thi^  Fox,  ISO  ; 
f^Iedtie  j()urne\',  1!).S ;  v()\-a{i;e  in 
l'<utiloni,  '.Vll -'VM  ;  .second  voyaf.;o 
in  I'dndiini,  .'i'i2-.334. 

Zeno,  Xiecolo,  S. 

Zieluuni,  S. 

Ziegler,  ^^•illianl,  430-432. 


Bv  AGNKS  C.  LAUT 

Pathfinders  of  the  West 

BEING  THE  THRILLING  STORY  OF  THE  ADVENTURES  OF 
THE  MEN  WHO  DISCOVERED  THE  GREAT  NORTHWEST, 
RADISSON,  LA  VERENDRYE,  LEWIS,  AND  CLARK 

"  A  thrilling  account  of  the  adventures  of  Radisson,  La 
Verendrye,  Lewis,  Clark,  and  others  who  disco\'ered  the 
great  Northwest.  The  author's  stories  of  these  men  are 
well  studied,  well  expressed,  always  reasonable,  always 
enthusiastic,  yet  never  fulsome.  .  .  .  Miss  Laut's  simj^ly 
written  chapters  have  all  the  compelling  charm  of  good 
fiction.  ALmy  readers  not  accustomed  to  literature  of 
this  order  will  peruse  the  book  with  eager  delight  because 
of  the  quietly  effective  manner  in  which  the  dram.atic 
facts  are  presented."  — Cliicago  Rccord-IIcrald. 

Illustrated,  doth,  <Svo,  ^3.00  net 

Vikings  of  the  Pacific 

A  CONTINUATION  OF  "PATHFINDERS    OF   THE   WEST" 

"  Miss  Laut  sets  herself  the  task  of  writing  about  the 
Pacific  ])ioneers  and  explorers  in  popular  style,  and  she  has 
achieved  a  huge  success.  In  interest  her  stories  leave  the 
historical  novel  far  in  the  rear,  for  she  deals  in  the  first 
instance  with  well-estaldished  facts  which  are  romantic 
enough  without  imaginative  coloring.  .  .  .  Her  book 
awakens  a  desire  to  know  more  about  these  lusty  vikings 
of  the  Pacific,  so  that  the  measure  of  Miss  Laut's  success 
is  something  more  than  to  have  written  a  popular  l)ook." 
—  Neiv  York  Suii. 

Illustrated,  eloth,  Svo,  Sj.oo  net 


PUHIJSHKl)     BV 

TH[E   MACMTLJ.AX    COMPANY 

64-66  Fifth  Avenue.  New  York 


Bv   DR.  WILFRKD  T.  GRENFIXL 
Labrador 

lUustratrd,  rlotli.  Siv.  S2.2J  nrl 

In  ihis  \-olume  I)r.  rirenfell  supplies  ihe  orily  full  arr"!  a(ie(|u:ilc 
account,  of  Labrador  -  the  counlry,  its  nat_ural  resources,  the  climatic 
conditions,  and  its  people.  In  addition  to  the  main  bod\-  of  the 
book,  with  its  chapters  on  l^h\-sioi,'raijh\-.  the  I'eople  of  the  Coast, 
the  Missions,  the  lJo,us,  the  \-arious  I-'i-heries.  there  are  short  chapters 
on  the  I-'lora,  the  h'auna,  tlie  deolo^'v,  etc.,  each  by  a  scientific  author 
of  standin,^.  'i'he  \'olume.  profuse!}'  illustrated  from  jjhoto,LTaj)h>  in 
the  author's  ov.n  (olleclion,  res'cali  an  unknown  land  to  the  \ast 
majoril}'  of  readers. 

By  ELLA   HIGGIXSON 

Alaska:  The  Great  Country 

I,:.!.tr,llrd.   rlotli,   I2»W.   '>2.2j   II-! 

"  Xo  other  boc)k  ,Lri\'es  so  clear  an  impres^^ion  of  the  beauty  and 
f^randeur  anrl  \'astness  of  our  nortliernm(j>t  territory,  nor  so  inspires 
one  to  explore  its  \'astnesses  She  h;is  minudcd  etiou^di  of  history  and 
statistics  to  make  it  auth(jrati\-e,  and  has  enii.elli>hed  the  tale  \sith 
Stories  and  anecdote^  to  prex'ent  it.-  bt-iivj;  dull,  and  has  succeeded  in 
writini;  what  miudit  \'.ell  be  called  a  ,L;reat  book  on  a  great  sul.iject.''  — 
7'hi  liostoii  lii'iji'nr^  Triuisrripl. 

By  JAMKS  OUTRAAI 

In  the  Heart  of  the  Canadian  Rockies 

With  map.-;  niid  forty-' ix  i!':i-^:r.:t'iin  :.  )■( prudncul  Jiuiiii  photir^^r^ip/is 

Clnlh,    impd-i'll  ■Y.o.  gilt  top.  ^2.yi  tuj 

"It  is  SO  inspired  with  the  ^dories  of  the  mountains,  their  sublime 
solitude-  and  silcn<  es,  acd  tlieir  fa.siin::  t  inu'  peril-  that  it  miLrlit  \'.ell 
be  I  idled  the  epic  of  Americ;ui  mriuntaineerinLc"        World  T()-d>iy. 

"'I'here  i-  an  unexpected  fre-hne--  in  the  whole  treatment,  a  x'iL'orof 
mowrnetit  in  the  narrati\-e.  a.nd  a  brillia.ney  nf  tuU' h  in  the  dra-.'-aca,' 
that  are  altnL'etlier  cm  eplf  mal.  \o  one.  we  think,  will  be  able  to 
read  thi-  '.orl;  '.'.illioul  fortiiiiiLT  a  >iri)n'_'  de.-ire  to  \■i^it  the  Canadian 
k'v  kie-,  audi  ilie  ;idmir.ible  pin itoLrrapli-  -.'.■hii  li  ha\'e  been  u-ed  in  the 
illur^tralion-  will  .-treiiL'then  that  dt'.-ire."  -  -  Cliiircii  Standard. 


IT  i',  I.I -hi;  I)    1!Y 

THE    MACMIELAX   COMPANY 

64  GG  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York 


Bv  E.   V.   LUCAS 

A  Wanderer  in  Holland 

llliistratcJ,   clolh,   Szv,   $j.oo   net 

"  Mr.  Lucas  assures  us  that  Holland  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  coun- 
tries to  niuve  about  in,  everything  that  happens  in  it  being  of  interest.  He 
fully  proves  his  statement,  and  we  close  his  l^ool;.  witli  tlie  conviction  that 
we  shall  never  find  there  a  more  agreeable  guide  than  he.  l'V)r  he  is  a 
man  of  tasie  and  culture,  who  has  apparently  pr(;served  all  the  zest  of 
youth  for  things  beautiful,  touching,  cjuaint,  or  humorous  —  especially 
humorous  —  and  his  own  unallected  enjoyment  gives  to  his  Images  a  most 
endearing  freshness  and  sj)arkle.  .  ,  .  In  short,  the  book  is  a  charming 
one."  —  Xc-ui  York  7'riliuiie. 


A  Wanderer  in  London 

Illustrated,  doth,  Svo,  $r.y^  net 

"We  have  met  with  few  books  of  the  sort  so  readable  thrcjughout.  It  is 
a  book  iliat  may  lie  opened  at  any  place  and  read  with  pleasure  by  read- 
ers who  have  seen  London;  and  those  who  have  not,  will  want  to  see  it 
after  reading  the  hook  of  one  who  knows  it  so  well."  —  ^\ '<.':<;'  York  F.7'en- 
iiii'  Sun. 


A  Wanderer  in  Paris 

Illustrate,/,  cloth,  Svo,  $7.75  net 

Mr.  Lucas  in  his  wanderings  in  many  lands  plays  the  part  of  an  intel- 
lectual lecturer  absorliing  the  atmosphere  of  the  country  and  the  soul  of 
its  people  rather  than  tiiat  of  a  hustling  reporter  content  with  diagranniiatic 
descriptions.  lie  is  as  nnich  at  home  in  Paris  as  he  is  in  Ids  native  Lon- 
don, and  he  enters  into  tlie  life  of  the  Parisians  with  the  same  intimacy 
and.  the  same  charm  that  have  characterized  all  his  previous  worlcs.  d"he 
volume  is  profusely  illustrated. 


PUBLISHED    BY 

THE    MACMILLAX    COMPAXY 

64  66  Fifth  Avenue.  New  York 


STORIES  FROM   AMERICAN   HISTORY 

Daniel  Boone  and  the  Wilderness  Road 

i^-   H.   ADDIXCiTOX   l^RUCK  Cloth,  Sl^o  net 

The  Story  ol  the  American  Merchant  Marine 

J^-  JOHN   R.   SPEARS  Cloth,  $1.30  net 

^  ankee  Ships  and  Yankee  Sailors 

By  JAMES   BARNES  Cloth,  $1.50 

The  Last  American  Frontier 

I^A-  FREDERIC  LOGAX  PAXSOX  Cloth,  $i.jo  net 
The  Story  of  Old  Fort  Loudon 

Bv  CHAREES  EGl^^ERT  CRADJX)CK  Cloth,  Si.jo 
Southern  Soldier  Stories 

]]v  (iEORCiE  CARY   ECXiEESTOX        Cloth,  ^^1.30 

Tales  of  the  Enchanted  Isles  of  the  Atlantic 

Bv  THOAE\S  WEX'E WORTH    HKK^XSOX 

('/()///,    Sl.jO 

De  Soto  and  His  Men  in  the  Land  of  Florida 

I]v  GRACE  KIXG  Cloth,  Si.jo 

The  S'orv  of  the  Great  Lakes 

P)V   EDWARD   ClIAXXIXC;   and 

.\E\RIOX   E.   EAX.^IX(i  Cluth,  Si.^o  net 

Tile  Storv  of  the  New  Ens^land  Whalers 

]]v  JOHX    R.  SPEARS  Cloth,  Si.jo  net 

Buccaneers  and  Pirates  of  Our  Coast 

l^-  ERAXK   R.   S'EOC^K'EOX  Cloth,  Si. jo 

prr.i.i-iii'.ij    i:\ 

'EII1-:    MACMILLAN    COMPAXY 

64-66  Fifth  Avenue.  New  York 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


''lAv 


^V  : 


>-A  ' 


]  r  ' 


Form  L9 — 15//<-10,'48  (Blu./j  ;  1  I  1 


'  \rr  ^  • 


xG20 


s>^ 


"^  III 


3  1158  00754  5212 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


A  A      000  154  691    0 


